one (the morning trade) beginning about ten, and lasting till one
in the day--and the other (the night trade) lasting from six in the
evening up to ten at night. What fish is left in the forenoon is
generally disposed of cheap at night. That sold at the latter time is
generally used by the working-class for supper, or kept by them with a
little salt in a cool place for the next day’s dinner, if it will last
as long. Several articles are sold by the street-fishmonger chiefly by
night. These are oysters, lobsters, pickled salmon, stewed mussels,
and the like. The reason why the latter articles sell better by night
is, my informant says, “Because people are lofty-minded, and don’t
like to be seen eating on ’em in the street in the day-time.” Shrimps
and winkles are the staple commodities of the afternoon trade, which
lasts from three to half-past five in the evening. These articles are
generally bought by the working-classes for their tea.
BILLINGSGATE.
To see this market in its busiest costermonger time, the visitor should
be there about seven o’clock on a Friday morning. The market opens at
four, but for the first two or three hours, it is attended solely by
the regular fishmongers and “bummarees” who have the pick of the best
there. As soon as these are gone, the costers’ sale begins.
Many of the costers that usually deal in vegetables, buy a little fish
on the Friday. It is the fast day of the Irish, and the mechanics’
wives run short of money at the end of the week, and so make up their
dinners with fish; for this reason the attendance of costers’ barrows
at Billingsgate on a Friday morning is always very great. As soon as
you reach the Monument you see a line of them, with one or two tall
fishmonger’s carts breaking the uniformity, and the din of the cries
and commotion of the distant market, begins to break on the ear like
the buzzing of a hornet’s nest. The whole neighbourhood is covered with
the hand-barrows, some laden with baskets, others with sacks. Yet as
you walk along, a fresh line of costers’ barrows are creeping in or
being backed into almost impossible openings; until at every turning
nothing but donkeys and rails are to be seen. The morning air is filled
with a kind of seaweedy odour, reminding one of the sea-shore; and
on entering the market, the smell of fish, of whelks, red herrings,
sprats, and a hundred others, is almost overpowering.
The wooden barn-looking square where the fish is sold, is soon after
six o’clock crowded with shiny cord jackets and greasy caps. Everybody
comes to Billingsgate in his worst clothes, and no one knows the
length of time a coat can be worn until they have been to a fish sale.
Through the bright opening at the end are seen the tangled rigging of
the oyster-boats and the red worsted caps of the sailors. Over the hum
of voices is heard the shouts of the salesmen, who, with their white
aprons, peering above the heads of the mob, stand on their tables,
roaring out their prices.
All are bawling together--salesmen and hucksters of provisions,
capes, hardware, and newspapers--till the place is a perfect Babel
of competition. “Ha-a-ansome cod! best in the market! All alive!
alive! alive O!” “Ye-o-o! Ye-o-o! here’s your fine Yarmouth bloaters!
Who’s the buyer?” “Here you are, governor, splendid whiting! some
of the right sort!” “Turbot! turbot! all alive! turbot!” “Glass of
nice peppermint! this cold morning a ha’penny a glass!” “Here you
are at your own price! Fine soles, O!” “Oy! oy! oy! Now’s your time!
fine grizzling sprats! all large and no small!” “Hullo! hullo here!
beautiful lobsters! good and cheap! fine cock crabs all alive O!”
“Five brill and one turbot--have that lot for a pound! Come and
look at ’em, governor; you wont see a better sample in the market.”
“Here, this way! this way for splendid skate! skate O! skate O!”
“Had--had--had--had--haddick! all fresh and good!” “Currant and meat
puddings! a ha’penny each!” “Now, you mussel-buyers, come along! come
along! come along! now’s your time for fine fat mussels!” “Here’s food
for the belly, and clothes for the back, but I sell food for the mind”
(shouts the newsvender). “Here’s smelt O!” “Here ye are, fine Finney
haddick!” “Hot soup! nice peas-soup! a-all hot! hot!” “Ahoy! ahoy here!
live plaice! all alive O!” “Now or never! whelk! whelk! whelk!” “Who’ll
buy brill O! brill O!” “Capes! water-proof capes! sure to keep the
wet out! a shilling a piece!” “Eels O! eels O! Alive! alive O!” “Fine
flounders, a shilling a lot! Who’ll have this prime lot of flounders?”
“Shrimps! shrimps! fine shrimps!” “Wink! wink! wink!” “Hi! hi-i! here
you are, just eight eels left, only eight!” “O ho! O ho! this way--this
way--this way! Fish alive! alive! alive O!”
In the darkness of the shed, the white bellies of the turbots, strung
up bow-fashion, shine like mother-of-pearl, while, the lobsters, lying
upon them, look intensely scarlet, from the contrast. Brown baskets
piled up on one another, and with the herring-scales glittering like
spangles all over them, block up the narrow paths. Men in coarse canvas
jackets, and bending under huge hampers, push past, shouting “Move
on! move on, there!” and women, with the long limp tails of cod-fish
dangling from their aprons, elbow their way through the crowd. Round
the auction-tables stand groups of men turning over the piles of soles,
and throwing them down till they slide about in their slime; some are
smelling them, while others are counting the lots. “There, that lot of
soles are worth your money,” cries the salesman to one of the crowd as
he moves on leisurely; “none better in the market. You shall have ’em
for a pound and half-a-crown.” “Oh!” shouts another salesman, “it’s no
use to bother him--he’s no go.” Presently a tall porter, with a black
oyster-bag, staggers past, trembling under the weight of his load, his
back and shoulders wet with the drippings from the sack. “Shove on one
side!” he mutters from between his clenched teeth, as he forces his
way through the mob. Here is a tray of reddish-brown shrimps piled up
high, and the owner busy sifting his little fish into another stand,
while a doubtful customer stands in front, tasting the flavour of the
stock and consulting with his companion in speculation. Little girls
carrying matting-bags, that they have brought from Spitalfields, come
up, and ask you in a begging voice to buy their baskets; and women with
bundles of twigs for stringing herrings, cry out, “Half-penny a bunch!”
from all sides. Then there are blue-black piles of small live lobsters,
moving about their bound-up claws and long “feelers,” one of them
occasionally being taken up by a looker-on, and dashed down again, like
a stone. Everywhere every one is asking, “What’s the price, master?”
while shouts of laughter from round the stalls of the salesmen,
bantering each other, burst out, occasionally, over the murmuring noise
of the crowd. The transparent smelts on the marble-slabs, and the
bright herrings, with the lump of transparent ice magnifying their eyes
like a lens, are seldom looked at until the market is over, though the
hampers and piles of huge maids, dropping slime from the counter, are
eagerly examined and bartered for.
One side of the market is set apart for whelks. There they stand in
sackfulls, with the yellow shells piled up at the mouth, and one or
two of the fish, curling out like corkscrews, placed as a sample. The
coster slips one of these from its shell, examines it, pushes it back
again, and then passes away, to look well round the market. In one part
the stones are covered with herring-barrels, packed closely with dried
fish, and yellow heaps of stiff haddock rise up on all sides. Here a
man walks up with his knot on his shoulder, waiting for a job to carry
fish to the trucks. Boys in ragged clothes, who have slept during the
night under a railway-arch, clamour for employment; while the heads of
those returning from the oyster-boats, rise slowly up the stone sides
of the wharf.
The costermongers have nicknamed the long row of oyster boats moored
close alongside the wharf “Oyster-street.” On looking down the line
of tangled ropes and masts, it seems as though the little boats would
sink with the crowds of men and women thronged together on their decks.
It is as busy a scene as one can well behold. Each boat has its black
sign-board, and salesman in his white apron walking up and down “his
shop,” and on each deck is a bright pewter pot and tin-covered plate,
the remains of the salesman’s breakfast. “Who’s for Baker’s?” “Who’s
for Archer’s?” “Who’ll have Alston’s?” shout the oyster-merchants, and
the red cap of the man in the hold bobs up and down as he rattles the
shells about with his spade. These holds are filled with oysters--a
gray mass of sand and shell--on which is a bushel measure well piled
up in the centre, while some of them have a blue muddy heap of
mussels divided off from the “natives.” The sailors in their striped
guernseys sit on the boat sides smoking their morning’s pipe, allowing
themselves to be tempted by the Jew boys with cloth caps, old shoes,
and silk handkerchiefs. Lads with bundles of whips skip from one boat
to another, and, seedy-looking mechanics, with handfuls of tin fancy
goods, hover about the salesmen, who are the principal supporters
of this trade. The place has somewhat the appearance of a little
Holywell-street; for the old clothes’ trade is entirely in the hands
of the Jew boys, and coats, caps, hats, umbrellas, and old shoes, are
shouted out in a rich nasal twang on all sides.
Passing by a man and his wife who were breakfasting on the stone
coping, I went to the shore where the watermen ply for passengers
to the eel boats. Here I found a crowd of punts, half filled with
flounders, and small closely-packed baskets of them ranged along the
seats. The lads, who act as jacks-in-the-water, were busy feeling in
the mud for the fish that had fallen over board, little caring for the
water that dashed over their red swollen feet. Presently a boat, piled
up with baskets, shot in, grazing the bottom, and men and women, blue
with the cold morning air, stepped out.
The Dutch built eel-boats, with their bulging polished oak sides, were
half-hidden in the river mist. They were surrounded by skiffs, that
ply from the Surrey and Middlesex shores, and wait whilst the fares
buy their fish. The holds of these eel-boats are fitted up with long
tanks of muddy water, and the heads of the eels are seen breathing
on the surface--a thick brown bubble rising slowly, and floating to
the sides. Wooden sabots and large porcelain pipes are ranged round
the ledges, and men in tall fur caps with high cheek bones, and rings
in their ears, walk the decks. At the stern of one boat was moored a
coffin-shaped barge pierced with holes, and hanging in the water were
baskets, shaped like olive jars--both to keep the stock of fish alive
and fresh. In the centre of the boat stood the scales,--a tall heavy
apparatus, one side fitted up with the conical net-bag to hold the
eels, and the other with the weights, and pieces of stone to make up
for the extra draught of the water hanging about the fish. When a skiff
load of purchasers arrives, the master Dutchman takes his hands from
his pockets, lays down his pipe, and seizing a sort of long-handled
landing-net scoops from the tank a lot of eels. The purchasers examine
them, and try to beat down the price. “You calls them eels do you?”
said a man with his bag ready opened. “Yeas,” answered the Dutchman
without any show of indignation. “Certainly, there is a few among
them,” continued the customer; and after a little more of this kind of
chaffering the bargain is struck.
The visitors to the eel-boats were of all grades; one was a
neatly-dressed girl to whom the costers showed the utmost gallantry,
calling her “my dear,” and helping her up the shining sides of the
boat; and many of the men had on their blue serge apron, but these
were only where the prices were high. The greatest crowd of customers
is in the heavy barge alongside of the Dutch craft. Here a stout
sailor in his red woollen shirt, and canvass petticoat, is surrounded
by the most miserable and poorest of fish purchasers--the men with
their crushed hats, tattered coats, and unshorn chins, and the women
with their pads on their bonnets, and brown ragged gowns blowing in
the breeze. One, in an old table-cover shawl, was beating her palms
together before the unmoved Dutchman, fighting for an abatement, and
showing her stock of halfpence. Others were seated round the barge,
sorting their lots in their shallows, and sanding the fish till they
were quite yellow. Others, again, were crowding round the scales
narrowly watching the balance, and then begging for a few dead eels to
make up any doubtful weight.
As you walk back from the shore to the market, you see small groups
of men and women dividing the lot of fish they have bought together.
At one basket, a coster, as you pass, calls to you, and says, “Here,
master, just put these three halfpence on these three cod, and obleege
a party.” The coins are placed, and each one takes the fish his coin is
on; and so there is no dispute.
At length nearly all the busy marketing has finished, and the costers
hurry to breakfast. At one house, known as “Rodway’s Coffee-house,”
a man can have a meal for 1_d._--a mug of hot coffee and two slices
of bread and butter, while for two-pence what is elegantly termed “a
tightner,” that is to say, a most plentiful repast, may be obtained.
Here was a large room, with tables all round, and so extremely silent,
that the smacking of lips and sipping of coffee were alone heard.
Upwards of 1,500 men breakfast here in the course of the morning,
many of them taking as many as three such meals. On the counter was a
pile of white mugs, and the bright tin cans stood beside the blazing
fire, whilst Rodway himself sat at a kind of dresser, cutting up and
buttering the bread, with marvellous rapidity. It was a clean, orderly,
and excellent establishment, kept by a man, I was told, who had risen
from a saloop stall.
Opposite to the Coal Exchange were ranged the stalls and barrows with
the street eatables, and the crowds round each showed the effects of
the sharp morning air. One--a Jew’s--had hot-pies with lids that rose
as the gravy was poured in from an oil can; another carried a stone jar
of peppermint-water, at 1/2_d._ a glass; and the pea-soup stand was
hemmed in by boys and men blowing the steam from their cups. Beside
these were Jews with cloth caps and knives, and square yellow cakes;
one old man, in a corner, stood examining a thread-bare scarf that
a cravatless coster had handed to him. Coffee-stalls were in great
plenty; and men left their barrows to run up and have “an oyster,”
or “an ’ot heel.” One man here makes his living by selling sheets
of old newspapers, at 1/2_d._ each, for the costers to dress their
trays with. Though seemingly rather out of place, there was a Mosaic
jewellery stand; old umbrellas, too, were far from scarce; and one had
brought a horse-hair stool for sale.
Everybody was soon busy laying out their stock. The wrinkled dull-eyed
cod was freshened up, the red-headed gurnet placed in rows, the eels
prevented from writhing over the basket sides by cabbage-leaves, and
the soles paired off like gloves. Then the little trucks began to
leave, crawling, as it were, between the legs of the horses in the vans
crowding Thames-street, and plunging in between huge waggons, but still
appearing safely on the other side; and the 4,000 costers who visit
Billingsgate on the Friday morning were shortly scattered throughout
the metropolis.
OF THE FORESTALLING OF MARKETS AND THE BILLINGSGATE BUMMAREES.
“Forestalling,” writes Adam Smith, “is the buying or contracting for
any cattle, provisions, or merchandize, on its way to the market (or
at market), or dissuading persons from buying their goods there, or
persuading them to raise the price, or spreading any false rumour with
intent to enhance the value of any article. In the remoter periods of
our history several statutes were passed, prohibiting forestalling
under severe penalties; but as more enlarged views upon such subjects
began to prevail, their impolicy became obvious, and they were
consequently repealed in 1772. But forestalling is still punishable by
fine and imprisonment; though it be doubtful whether any jury would now
convict an individual accused of such practices.”
In Billingsgate the “forestallers” or middlemen are known as
“bummarees,” who, as regards means, are a far superior class to the
“hagglers” (the forestallers of the “green” markets). The bummaree is
the jobber or speculator on the fish-exchange. Perhaps on every busy
morning 100 men buy a quantity of fish, which they account likely
to be remunerative, and retail it, or dispose of it in lots to the
fishmongers or costermongers. Few if any of these dealers, however,
are merely bummarees. A salesman, if he have disposed of the fish
consigned to himself, will turn bummaree if any bargain tempt him. Or
a fishmonger may purchase twice the quantity he requires for his own
trade, in order to procure a cheaper stock, and “bummaree” what he does
not require. These speculations in fish are far more hazardous than
those in fruit or vegetables, for later in the day a large consignment
by railway may reach Billingsgate, and, being thrown upon the market,
may reduce the price one half. In the vegetable and fruit markets there
is but one arrival. The costermongers are among the best customers of
the bummarees.
I asked several parties as to the origin of the word “bummaree,” and
how long it had been in use. “Why, bless your soul, sir,” said one
Billingsgate labourer, “there always was bummarees, and there always
will be; just as Jack there is a ‘rough,’ and I’m a blessed ‘bobber.’”
One man assured me it was a French name; another that it was Dutch. A
fishmonger, to whom I was indebted for information, told me he thought
that the bummaree was originally a bum-boat man, who purchased of
the wind-bound smacks at Gravesend or the Nore, and sent the fish up
rapidly to the market by land.
I may add, as an instance of the probable gains of the forestallers, in
the olden time, that a tradesman whose family had been long connected
with Billingsgate, showed me by his predecessors’ books and memoranda,
that in the depth of winter, when the Thames was perhaps choked with
ice, and no supply of fish “got up” to London, any, that might, by
management, reach Billingsgate used to command exorbitant prices.
To speak only of the present century: March 11th, 1802, a cod fish
(8 lbs.) was bought by Messrs. Phillips and Robertson, fishmongers,
Bond-street, for 1_l._ 8_s._ February, 1809, a salmon (19 lbs.) was
bought by Mr. Phillips at a guinea a pound, 19_l._ 19_s._ for the fish!
March 24th, 1824, three lobsters were sold for a guinea each.
The “haggler,” I may here observe, is the bummaree or forestaller or
middleman of the green markets; as far as the costermonger’s trade is
concerned, he deals in fruit and vegetables. Of these trafficers there
are fully 200 in Covent-garden-market; from 60 to 70 in Farringdon;
from 40 to 50 in the Borough; from 50 to 60 in Spitalfields; and none
in Portman-market; such being the only wholesale green-markets for the
purposes of the costermongers. The haggler is a middleman who makes
his purchases of the growers when the day is somewhat advanced, and
the whole produce conveyed to the market has not been disposed of. The
grower will then, rather than be detained in town, sell the whole lot
remaining in his cart or wagon to a haggler, who re-sells it to the
costers, or to any other customer, from a stand which he hires by the
day. The costermongers who are the most provident, and either have
means or club their resources for a large purchase, often buy early in
the morning, and so have the advantage of anticipating their fellows in
the street-trade, with the day before them. Those who buy later are the
customers of the hagglers, and are street-sellers, whose means do not
command an extensive purchase, or who do not care to venture upon one
unless it be very cheap. These men speak very bitterly of the hagglers,
calling them “cracked-up shop-keepers” and “scurfs,” and declaring that
but for them the growers must remain, and sell off their produce cheap
to the costermongers.
A species of forestalling is now not uncommon, and is on the increase
among the costermongers themselves. There are four men, having the
command of money, who attend the markets and buy either fish or
vegetables largely. One man especially buys almost daily as much fruit
and vegetables as will supply thirty street-dealers. He adds 3_d._ a
bushel to the wholesale market price of apples; 6_d._ to that of pears;
9_d._ to plums; and 1_s._ to cherries. A purchaser can thus get a
smaller quantity than he can always buy at market, and avails himself
of the opportunity.
Moreover, a good many of the more intelligent street-dealers now club
together--six of them, for instance--contributing 15_s._ each, and
a quantity of fish is thus bought by one of their body (a smaller
contribution suffices to buy vegetables). Perhaps, on an equal
partition, each man thus gets for his 15_s._ as much as might have cost
him 20_s._, had he bought “single-handed.” This mode of purchase is
also on the increase.
OF “WET” FISH-SELLERS IN THE STREETS.
Concerning the sale of “wet” or fresh fish, I had the following account
from a trustworthy man, of considerable experience and superior
education: