THE NEW ENGLAND OF TO-DAY
[Illustration: THE FRIENDLY GUIDE]
The New England country has with the ageing of the century been
depopulated. The causes are various, but the evolution of the newspaper
has much to do with this. Visions of movement, and wealth, and fame
penetrate daily to the smallest village. Youth has always elements of
unfixity and uneasiness. It craves stir and excitement. The future is
full of golden possibilities. Riches or position present no height
which may not be scaled. But it is not the farm which holds these
higher possibilities. No, they are to be won in store, or shop, or
bank, where the noisy tides of the big towns keep up their restless
sway through the leagues of brick-walled city streets. In the city
is always movement. Not a paper comes into the country village but
that tells of some grand emprise, some fresh excitement, that has
its home in a familiar near city. But the chronicler for the home
village finds no items more worthy of note than that some one’s cow
has died, and that Amanda Jones is visiting Susan Smith. The contrast
presented is one of home monotony and triviality, and city stir and
grandeur. The picture is not altogether a true one. Acquaintance with
the big places is to the country boy almost uniformly disappointing.
The buildings are not so high nor so fine as he supposed. The din and
crowds of the city streets grow confusing and wearisome. If he stays
and gains a situation, and begins to work his way up in the world,
he finds competition intense, his freedom sharply curtailed, and his
lodgings narrow and in many ways lacking comfort. If he lives on his
wages, which at first will be very small, close economy is required
in food, clothes, and other expenses. In summer the heat is apt to
make office and lodging-place stiflingly disagreeable. All through the
year memories of the home farm, if he be imaginatively inclined, make
Arcadian pictures in his mind, and he many times questions if he has
not jumped from the frying-pan into the fire.
[Illustration: A HILL TOWN]
[Illustration: THE BACK SHEDS]
No one place holds every element of pleasure or comfort. The country
has its lacks, so has the city. The ideal home is perhaps in the
country village within easy travelling distance of some big town. Thus
you may largely avoid the drawbacks of either place, while you have
within reach all their pleasures. To live far back among the hills, cut
off from the nearest railway station by many miles of hard travelling,
is, in these modern days, a positive hardship. Few young people will
settle down contentedly where they are so cut off from the pleasures of
seeing the world by occasional railroad trips, and getting the glimpses
they crave of the busier life of the cities. Hence the tide sets away
from the remoter towns. The masses always follow the turn of the
current whichever way it shows strong tendency to run, and the boys,
as they grow up, live in full expectation of leaving the home place
after school-days are over. One by one they go from the valleys and the
hill-tops, and merge into the busier life of the factory villages and
the cities. An air of depression lingers over the regions they leave.
The most vigorous life has departed, enterprise is asleep, thrift lags.
There are still houses neatly kept, with clean, well-tilled fields
about, and a town now and then which is a happy exception to the rule;
but there is much which is hopeless and despondent. Few roads can be
followed far without coming upon some broken-windowed ruin of a house,
now for years unoccupied, and wholly given over to decay. The children
left, drawn by dreams of the gains the city or the sea or the far
West offered; and the parents are gone, too, now. The shingles and
clapboards loosen and the roof sags, and within, damp, mossy decay has
fastened itself to walls, floor, and ceiling of every room. Gaps have
broken in the stone walls along the roadway, and the brambles are thick
springing on either side. In the front yard is a gnarled, untrimmed
apple-tree with a great broken limb sagging to the ground, and about
a ragged growth of bushes. As time goes on, the house falls piece by
piece, and at last only the shattered chimney stands, a grim monument
of the one-day comfortable home--a memorial of the dead past. Yet even
now life is not all of the past. Amidst the rubbish careful watching
might reveal many of the little creatures of the field, and at eventide
of summer days you might see a darting of wings and descry a little
company of swallows dipping toward the chimney’s open cavern.
[Illustration: WINTER TWILIGHT--GOING UP FOR ONE MORE SLIDE]
[Illustration: A HILL-TOWN VILLAGE]
Some of the deserted homes would be still habitable, and that very
comfortably so, were there tenants. The life possible on these farms
would seem much happier and more desirable than that possible to the
poor family in the tenement of a factory village or in the crowded
quarters of our cities. But the country is to such very “lonesome,” and
there is hardly a city family of the more ignorant classes but will
choose squalor in the city rather than comfort in the country. The
noise and continual movement of the town have become a part of their
lives, and severed from that it is but a blank, unspeaking landscape
unfolds before their eyes. Nature is really never lonesome. Only
our habit and education make it so seem. Nature is always singing,
whether in our fellow humans, or in the hills and valleys, or in the
life of plants and animals. It is we lack eyes to see and ears to
hear. Nevertheless, mankind is naturally social, and though Robinson
Crusoe and his island were very interesting, we do not envy him the
experience, and demand at least a few congenial neighbors within easy
reach.
[Illustration: HOMES AND OUT-BUILDINGS BY THE WAYSIDE]
There is hardly any purely farming community in New England but that
has decreased in population within the past fifty years. It has been
the hill towns which have suffered most, but the valley towns have
been affected as well. It has become the habit to account all country
life dull, and the city’s superior liveliness, and the chances to earn
ready money offered by stores and factories, draw away the life of even
the most favored communities. New England is to-day much less a region
of thrifty Yankee farmers than it is a land of busy manufacturing
villages. Of these, enterprise and ingenious inventiveness are
characteristic. They call to them a large foreign population which
fills the monotonous rows of tenements in the neighborhood of the
mills, or in the case of the more thrifty establishes itself in little
separate family homes on the outskirts. The farming regions about
naturally take to market gardening, and these places become the chief
buyers of produce for the country miles about.
Farming towns within easy distance of the railroads usually attain a
fair prosperity, and energy and forethought give good returns for labor
expended. The towns themselves with their elm-shadowed streets are
neatly kept, and there is a certain pride taken in the good appearance
of the homes half hidden in the drooping foliage. In the remoter towns
are found thrifty dairy farms here and there, but the villages as a
whole are inclined to look weatherworn and hopeless. Many of the houses
have been strangers to fresh paint for a score of years or more; and
others, though still inhabited, depress with their broken chimnies,
leaky roofs, and decrepit out-buildings; while there are not wanting
the homes altogether deserted, silent, broken-windowed, and sepulchral.
Often these upland towns are nearly barren of well-grown trees which
might add so much to their appearance, and the trees there are, look
wind-blown and storm-beaten. This, with the thin, weedy grasses which
grow on the opens before the churches, gives such places an accumulated
forlornness.
[Illustration: NEW ENGLAND ROCKS]
It may be possible to find one of the outlying hamlets entirely
deserted. There are little villages where you may find half a dozen
or more forsaken homes, and no more than one or two still occupied;
and the whole village and land is concentrated in one or two big
farms,--big only in acres, however. There is slight attempt, as a
rule, to keep up a thorough tillage. The best of the fields are gone
over each year and a scanty harvest gleaned, and it may be questioned
if equal labor on fewer acres would not produce greater results. The
surplus buildings of the now depopulated village receive slight care,
and time and decay deal hardly with them. The best of them serve as
storage places for farm crops or tools. The more broken-down are levied
upon occasionally for a few boards to mend a fence or a leak in one of
the neighboring buildings, and so is hastened their time of complete
ruin.
[Illustration: HOLDING THE HORSES WHILE HIS FATHER GOES IN TO GET A
DRINK OF WATER]
Some places have won the favor of the summer visitors, and so have
gained renewed prosperity. A few weeks’ sojourn far from the heat
and noise of the city on these quiet, breezy hill-tops is no small
pleasure, and many a person of means takes pride in the cottage home
he has bought in some nook he thinks especially favored by nature,
and looks forward all through the lengthening days of the spring to
the time when he can unlock its door once more, wind the clock in the
hall, and settle himself with his family for the yearly vacation. He
finds not a little fussing and fixing to employ him about the place,
and he saunters forth in his oldest suit, when the notion takes him, to
talk with his neighbors the farmers. The chances are he gets off his
coat and renews his youth by helping in the hay-field, and there, like
enough, the rest of his flock hunt him out, and all have a triumphal
ride on the loaded cart behind the slow-moving oxen to the barn.
[Illustration: MAY]
[Illustration: A DAM ON THE CONNECTICUT]
[Illustration: AT THE RAILROAD STATION]
When the summer visitor came up from the railroad station on the train,
he noted the enticing look of the little streams in the hollows, and
the tinkling murmur of the waterfalls sounded in his ear a call to get
forth his fishing-rod. He was not long settled in his vacation home
before the fishing-tackle was forthcoming, and he might be seen with
vast caution and seriousness following up the neighboring brook through
the tangled woods, and across the pastures among the rank-growing ferns
and grasses, casting the fly and trailing it after the most approved
fashion along the surface of the water, and perchance, if destiny
favored, pulling forth at times a dainty little trout. The streams are
so thoroughly fished that at finger-length, in the more accessible
regions, the fish is esteemed a prize. Driving is always in order.
There are glens, and waterfalls, and high hills with wonderfully far
outlooks, and delightful winding valleys, to visit almost without
number.
[Illustration: A MANUFACTURING VILLAGE]
On Sunday the summer visitor goes to the village church. Perhaps the
services are not as brilliant as those to which he is used, but there
is a comfortable simplicity to the place, the people, the sermon,
and the singing which charms. The visitor is often a ready and valued
helper in making the church and its belongings more attractive, and
takes an interest in the schools and library and appearance of the
town, which to many a place has been of great assistance. The vacation
which includes, beside the ordinary out-door pleasuring, some of this
sort of helpfulness gives a multiplied satisfaction at its close.
[Illustration: THE RAILWAY-CROSSING IN THE VILLAGE]
The country dwellers of New England are not to-day, in the mass, as
strong charactered and vigorously intelligent as were those of the
early part of the century. Those elements have found greater attraction
and greater chance of reward elsewhere. It often happens that thrift
seems to dwell rather with recent comers from across the water than
with the older families. This is sometimes claimed to be because the
first will live more meanly than the latter could bring themselves to.
The truth is, the new-comers have no pride of family name to sustain,
they know attainment rests only on hard work, and their secret of
success lies more in their steady labor and good business habits than
in any meanness of living. The scions of the old families are looser
in their methods and more reckless and showy, and far less given to
vigorous work. They may be heard to bewail over this foreign element as
usurpers; but in reality comers of thrift and intelligence, whatever
their former homes, are a help to the town life. Hard work, saving
habits, and the aspiration to give the children of the family an
education, has a healthful effect on character, and win oftentimes for
those growing up in these homes culture and practical ability equalling
the best of that of the older families. If a foreign family takes up
with some little house on the outskirts, it may live very shabbily for
the first few years. But the land about is gradually brought under full
and thrifty tillage, little sheds begin to spring up behind the house,
by and by a barn is built, and then the house is made over and an L
added, and the progress toward prosperity as presented to the eye is a
thing to be admired. It is almost always the remnants of the worn-out
Yankee families which come on the town, and not these foreigners.
[Illustration: A STONE BRIDGE]
“Yankee” has become almost a synonym for ingeniousness, thrift, and
“cuteness.” You can’t scare him; get him in a tight place and he will
find a way out; set him a task and he will find some way to do it in
half the time you expected; make him the butt of a joke and he will
get even with you and pay heavy interest; no matter what part of the
earth you transplant him to or the conditions you surround him with,
he accommodates himself to the new circumstances, and proceeds with
alacrity to financially profit by them. He is a born arguer, and a born
pedler, and a born whittler, a Jack-at-all-trades and good at them all.
[Illustration: A GROUP OF LITTLE FISHERMEN]
This, it may be, is the typical Yankee, and without a doubt such can
be found; but not every inhabitant of New England is made that way.
Yankees are of all kinds, and the abilities, virtues, and short-comings
are much mixed in the parcelling out. The Yankee is a man of opinions,
and shows great readiness to impart them to others; but the depth
or shallowness of these depends on the man. He is inclined to slow
speaking and nasal tones, and when a question is asked has a way of
turning it over in his mind once or twice before he gives answer,
often improving the interval to spit seriously and meditatively. In
bargaining, whatever the amount involved, he is given to dickering,
crying down, or upholding the price, according as he is buyer or
seller. The thrifty man is sometimes simply the man of push and
ability, sometimes the miserly man who drives sharp bargains and
forecloses mortgages when his poor neighbors are in trouble, and sells
hard cider to the drinkers; or he may be one of high standing in church
and community, who, though stickling for fairness, is sure to buy low
and sell high; who is up at sunrise in summer and long before daylight
in winter; who makes long days and fills them with hard work, and is
esteemed a hard master by sons and hired men; who lives frugally, and
when it comes to spending, as the saying goes, “squeezes the dollar
until the eagle squeals.”
[Illustration: A WAYSIDE WATERING-TROUGH]
[Illustration: A COUNTRY SCHOOL WATCHING A TEAM GO BY]
As a rule New England country people save nothing above expenses, and
even then, spending all they earn, can have few more than the most
common comforts of life, and rarely a luxury. Circumstance or some
untoward accident of fate may bring this result, but an unstriving
lack of thrift is more frequently the cause. Those of this class have
a way of being always a little behind in what they do, and there is a
dragging want of vitality in what they attempt. They are a little late
in planting, a little late in harvesting. They never get full crops,
and fall below the best always in quality, and are apt to suffer loss
through frost or foul weather. “The stitch in time which saves nine”
about their buildings they do not take, and these buildings lose boards
here and there, and presently begin to sag and need a prop to keep
them from coming down prone. So crops, and animals, and farm-tools are
ill-protected, and there is increased loss.
[Illustration: AN OLD BURYING-GROUND]
As compared with the typical Southerner, the Yankee has less warmth
of enthusiasm, less open-heartedness and chivalry, but he is steadier
and has greater staying-power. The ne’er-do-well class of the North
may wear their hearts on their sleeves and be as free as air in their
kindliness and generosity; but Yankee thrift, however generous or
philanthropic, is self-controlled and inclined to be reticent and
politic. But though this may lessen the charm and poetry of it, there
is no doubting its increased effectiveness.
Thrift is apt to become with the well-to-do a sort of passion. The
lack of it in a neighbor stirs continued and sarcastic criticism. On
the other hand, thrift easily runs into closeness; but the worshipper
of thrift is not mean and entirely selfish in this regard. It is a
pleasure to him to see well-tilled fields, even if they belong to
others, and he has the wish to make what attracts him general. The rich
at their death often leave their fortunes in whole or in part to some
charity or educational institution which will further a more general
thrift.
[Illustration: BELOW THE DAM]
In stories of New England village-life we find a curious dialect used
by the characters. Quaintness and uncouthness are both prominent.
To one thoroughly acquainted with its people these stories savor of
exaggeration and caricature. Ignorance everywhere uses bad grammar,
whether in town or country, New England or elsewhere. Isolation tends
also to careless speech. But the New Englander has not either, as
a rule, to so marked a degree as to make him the odd specimen of
humanity pictured in books. Life in the small villages and on the
outlying farms does not present very numerous social advantages, and
the result is a necessity for depending on one’s own resources. This,
with those possessed of some mental vigor, develops individuality of
thought and stable and forceful character. In the towns it requires the
consultation and help of about half a dozen friends for a young person
to accomplish any given object, great or small. On the farm, where
neighbors are few, the boy or girl does his or her own thinking and
working. Such have more pith and point to their brain movement, and in
after life under as favoring circumstances will accomplish more.
[Illustration: A MASSACHUSETTS MOUNTAIN]
[Illustration: THE FERRYBOAT]
Individuality expresses itself in manner and speech as well as thought,
and odd ways and queer ideas and peculiar observations are to be met
with very commonly in the New England country. The heavy work brings
a certain amount of clumsiness with the strength. The rough clothes
usually worn, and the slight care given them, often make an individual
grotesque, and the majority of the workers attain to the picturesque
in their costumes with their variety of patched and faded oldness. A
peculiarity of recent years has come with the fashion of derby hats.
There is a naturalness about an old slouch hat, however ancient,
stained, and misshapen. If it does not grow old gracefully, it at least
does so logically and without reminding the beholder of a more exalted
past. But the battered and leaky derby retains to the last a stiff look
of aristocracy which ill fits its dilapidated seediness.
[Illustration: A FALL ON THE CONNECTICUT]
[Illustration: JUNE]
But whether a man is uncouth or not depends on other things than
his occupation. Neatness is a growth from within rather than from
without, and though no sensible farmer works in his Sunday clothes
on week-days, there are many by whom you are agreeably impressed,
no matter where you meet them. A look from the car window on a rainy
day, as you pause at the villages on your route, reveals a curious
motley group hanging about the platform. The depot is a favorite resort
on stormy days when work is slack on the farm; but loafing is not
characteristic of the best of the community, and it is hardly fair to
judge all by the specimens who here present themselves.
[Illustration: THE GROWING BOY IN HIS LAST YEAR’S CLOTHES]
[Illustration: AT THE BACK-DOOR]
Indoors, where presides the housewife, we expect to find neatness in
supreme rule, for the New England woman has in that a wide repute.
It is to be doubted if the old-time shining and spotless interiors
which the grandmothers tell about are as universal now as formerly.
But house-cleanings come with great regularity in most families, and
the consumption of brooms and scrubbing-brushes in New England is
something enormous. With the advent of wall-paper and carpets and the
great variety of furniture and knick-knacks now within reach, has come
a discontent with the old simplicity, and the changes are often not
pleasing. Taste runs too much in wall-paper and carpets to dark colors
and pronounced patterns, and the rooms appear boxy. If much money
is spent on furniture it is apt to be spent on style rather than on
substantial and quiet comfort. The pictures on the walls are usually a
queer collection, from--it would be hard to imagine where; of colored
prints, engravings cut from newspapers, and photographs of deceased
members of the family. The science of house decoration is something
very modern, and it will take time to learn how to do it simply and
harmoniously.
[Illustration: THE ACADEMY]
Life’s currents pursue a tangled course, and while we catch many
strains of harmony, there are discordant notes of which we rarely get
entirely out of hearing. New England is not perfect, but once to have
known is always to love it, no matter how far one wanders or how fair
new regions open before one’s eyes. Its changing seasons, its rugged
hills and tumbling streams, its winding roadways, its villages and
little farms, cling in the memory and sing siren songs of enticement.
Nature is sometimes harsh, but she has many moods, and nowhere more
than here; and if harsh sometimes, she is at other times exceeding
sweet. In cold or heat, storm or sunshine, New England’s rough fields
are still the true Arcadia to her sons and daughters.