CHAPTER I.

Produced by Jim Adcock from images obtained from the Internet Archive.

A DANISH PARSONAGE

BY

AN ANGLER

LONDON

KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., 1, PATERNOSTER SQUARE

1884

(The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved.)

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I.

Introductory

CHAPTER II.

The Danish Parsonage--Trout fishing on the Gudenaa

CHAPTER III.

Rosendal

CHAPTER IV.

The Danish Church--The clerical party in Denmark

CHAPTER V.

Danish parishioners--The piano--English and Danish horses

CHAPTER VI.

Pike, perch, and eel fishing--A silver wedding at a Danish

proprietor's

CHAPTER VII.

Danish horse-breeding--A fatal accident

CHAPTER VIII.

The superstition of the Huldr--The tradition of Gefion--Of

Churches--The legend of the sunken mansion--Of the boar Limgrim

CHAPTER IX.

Kaempehoie or tumuli--Hidden treasure--Ghosts--Spectral

Huntsmen--Witches--Gypsies--The book of Cyprianus--Nissen--Elle folk

CHAPTER X.

The purchase of Rosendal--Pike fishing--Karl Lindal rides the English

horse

CHAPTER XI.

The legend of the Damhest--The Helhest--The Kirkelam--The

Gravso--Burying alive to propitiate supernatural power--Traditions of

robbers--The Basilisk--The Lindorm--Lygtemaend

CHAPTER XII.

Horse racing in Denmark--A horse race

CHAPTER XIII.

Trout fishing in hot weather--Danish ladies riding--A practical visit

to Rosendal

CHAPTER XIV.

Folketro--Havmaend--Havfruer--The gnome of the elder

tree--Varulv--Marer--Strandvarsler--Kirkegrim

CHAPTER XV.

The Pastor and his daughter--The Scotch landscape gardener--Folkeviser

CHAPTER XVI.

Trout fishing--The legend of the Aamaend--Changelings--Wise men and

wise women--Dvaerge--Tyge Brahe--Herr Eske Brok--The family Rosenkrands

CHAPTER XVII.

A drive through part of Jutland--Silkeborg--Himmelbjerg Traditions of

Holger Danske--Walling sinners up

CHAPTER XVIII.

Horsens--Veile--Legends--The Swedes in Jutland--Hamlet--Abbot Muus--A

found treasure--The priest at Urlev--Koldinghuus

CHAPTER XIX.

Holsted--Folke Eventyr--The story of the priest and his clerk--Of the

queen who was walled up seventeen years--Of the Trold and the

boy--Esbjerg

CHAPTER XX.

In England--Hardy Place--Mrs. Hardy--Correspondence with Denmark

CHAPTER XXI.

Mrs. Hardy visits Denmark--Helga Lindal--The yacht sails for

Copenhagen

CHAPTER XXII.

Yachting from Copenhagen to Christiania--Helga Lindal's Birthday

CHAPTER XXIII.

Christiania to Aarhus--Pastor Lindal and the yacht--John Hardy's

wedding-day is fixed--The Domkirke at Aarhus--Traditions and legends

CHAPTER XXIV.

Pastor Lindal joins the yacht for a cruise amongst the Danish

islands--Samso and traditions--Endelave and the giantess--Odense and

its historical traditions--Nyborg--King Christian and the monkey--The

ghost of Queen Helvig--Maerkedage--Svendborg--St. Jorgen and the

Lindorm--The murdered lady--Weather days

CHAPTER XXV.

Vordingborg--Mariebo and traditions--Legend of Borre

Island--Phanefjord and Gronsund--Legends of Phane and Gron--The

pilgrim stone--Drive to Moen's Klint--The Underjordiske--Margrethe

Skaelvig's wedding-dress--The twenty pigs and Gamle

Erik--Praesto--Stevn's Klint--Hoierup--The termination "rup"

explained--Copenhagen to Aarhus

CHAPTER XXVI.

Pastor Lindal's views as to his parish--His daughter's as to her

wedding-dress--The marriage--John Hardy and his wife's arrival at

Hardy Place--With the Pastor--A daughter-in-law's duty--Pastor

Lindal's strong opinions on the English church system--

ARGUMENT

The Viking, _tenax propositi_, if he planned an expedition, carried it

out, through all obstacles, or died in the attempt.

The descendants, softened in manner and cast of thought by centuries

of time, retain the same singleness of purpose.

There is no other thought of the duty of life except to do it. If self

has to be sacrificed, it is done without reserve.

The result is that there are men and women who are the reflection of

duty, and although this occurs in all lands, yet nowhere does it exist

in greater purity than in the descendants of the Viking.

A DANISH PARSONAGE

CHAPTER I.

"_Piscator_. Oh, sir! doubt not but that Angling is

an art. Is it not an art to deceive a Trout with an artificial

fly?--a Trout that is more sharp-sighted than any Hawk you

have named, and more watchful and timorous than your

high-mettled Merlin is bold. And yet I doubt not to catch a

brace or two to-morrow for a friend's breakfast."

--_The Complete Angler._

John Hardy had lived with his mother at Hardy Place. His father had

died when he was six years of age, and there was consequently a long

minority of fifteen years. The greatest influence in John Hardy's life

was a trout stream that ran winding through an English landscape for

four miles in the Hardys' property. John Hardy fished it as a

schoolboy, and it was the greatest triumph he experienced as a lad, to

catch more trout in it with a fly than the numerous fly-fishers to

whom Mrs. Hardy's kindness gave permission. When college days came,

John Hardy, ever intent on fishing, went to Norway in the vacation

with the checkered result of getting an occasional salmon, and in the

smaller streams on the fjelds a quantity of small trout. The grand

scenery in the fjords, and the kindly nature of the people, led John

Hardy to more remote districts, where sport was better, the fare and

quarters worse, but some acquisition of Scandinavian language a

necessity.

Thus John Hardy not only gradually acquired a knowledge of many

dialects in Scandinavia, but the ability to read and understand the

simpler books in the language. He travelled and fished through Norway

and Sweden, and by degrees learnt, from the necessity of speaking it,

more and more of the Danish language, the language of Scandinavia, as

English relatively is to broad Scotch. This naturally led to his going

to Denmark, and his travelling through Jutland and the Danish islands.

In Jutland he accidentally fished in a West Jutland river, and to his

surprise found the difficult but good fishing that his heart longed

for.

John Hardy returned home, and was at Hardy Place with his mother the

whole winter, and then, as April came round with the fishing season,

John became restless, and told his mother of his Danish fishing

experiences, and left for Copenhagen. His mother said, "Write me once

a week, John, and bring me home a Scandinavian princess for your

wife." John Hardy promised to write, but said he thought Scandinavian

princesses did not rise to a fly. His mother's face grew grave, and

she said, "You should marry soon, John; you are twenty-eight, and I

want to see you married to a wife to whom you can trust Hardy Place

and the care of your mother in her old age."

"I can find no one yet, dear mother," said John Hardy. "I cannot bear

you should have any one at Hardy Place you did not only like but

love."

"Bless you, John," said his mother. "I trust in your love; and I know

some men are such gentlemen, and so was your father, and so are you,

John."

So Hardy left for Copenhagen by the English steamer from Hull to St.

Petersburg, and was landed in the pilot-boat at Elsinore, and went

thence by rail to Copenhagen. On the journey John Hardy thought that

his best course was to get lodgings with a respectable family in

Jutland near the Gudenaa, the little river that embouches in the

Randers fjord and flows through part of Jutland, and is the principal

river in it.

John Hardy had taken from his bankers introductions to persons in

Copenhagen, to whom he had communicated his wishes. The result was an

advertisement in the _Berlinske Tidende_ that an Englishman required

lodgings near the Gudenaa, with an opportunity of being taught the

Danish language. The replies were many and of a very varied character,

as might be anticipated from such an advertisement.

But John Hardy received a reply from a Danish clergyman in Jutland,

which struck his fancy beyond the rest. It was as follows:--

"In reply to the advertisement in the _Berlinske Tidende_ of

yesterday's date, I beg to offer lodgings in my house. It is a small

parsonage in Jutland, and the Gudenaa is near. There is a towing-path

on the banks, and where such exists the fishing is free, consequently

no difficulty will arise as to permission to fish. The fishing is not

particularly good, and if great anticipations exist on this score, I

must say that they will not, in my opinion, be realized. Small fish on

which the trout feed are abundant, as also the cadis worm and fly, and

the trout do not take readily an artificial bait, either fly or

minnow. I cannot, therefore, say that I think many trout can be

caught. There is also much fishing with small nets. I can, however,

teach Danish to an Englishman, although my knowledge of English is

imperfect; but on the other hand, if the advertiser will teach my two

sons, of sixteen and fourteen years of age, English, I should require

no payment from him. I am a widower, with a daughter and the two sons

already named. I can only add that he would be received kindly, and

treated as a member of my family."

The straightforwardness of this communication had its effect on John

Hardy's open character, and he replied that he would accept the

conditions stipulated, but that he could do so only on a payment of a

monthly sum, which he was advised in Copenhagen was a full

compensation, and rather more than would be expected, for the

accommodation and cost that might be incurred by the Danish Pastor.

The reply from the Jutland parsonage was: "The evident consideration

shown by your answer to my letter should be sufficient, but before you

come here will you kindly give me references in Copenhagen, or, if

that be difficult, in England, where I might make inquiry. I am the

Pastor of the parish where I reside, and it is due to my position that

I should make inquiry before I can admit any one to my house under any

circumstances. I do not wish to ask what is not right or reasonable,

but as I am situated it is a necessity, however advantageous your

coming here might be to me."

This reply impressed John Hardy more than the previous communication,

and he replied with the address of a bank in Copenhagen, with

reference to his own bankers in London, for which John Hardy had to

wait a week in Copenhagen. These replies were to the effect that John

Hardy was a gentleman of position and character in England, and that

any amount that might be incurred by him for expenses in Denmark would

at once be paid by the Danish bank.

John Hardy, it must be confessed, would rather have been fishing in

the Gudenaa than waiting for references that would show he was to be

trusted in a Danish household; but he was assured in Copenhagen that

in Jutland an introduction is not only necessary, but that it should

be supported by references, which when once done in a satisfactory

manner, then the natural kindness of the Jutland people would be open

to him. John Hardy's later experiences led him to recognize how true

the advice he received in Copenhagen was in this respect.

He left Copenhagen by the steamer for Aarhus, and went by rail to a

small station on the railway, where the Pastor met him with a

two-horse vehicle, that made the small distance of eight English miles

a journey of nearly three hours. The Pastor was a man of fifty, with a

fresh complexion and a kindly face, and asked many questions of John

Hardy's family and friends, his position in England, his age, the

income from his landed property, and his views and intentions in life.

John Hardy had, however, heard he must expect this, and answered

simply and frankly.

When at length the little Danish parsonage was reached, with its

whitewashed garden wall, with poplar trees and lilac bushes, John

Hardy felt it was a relief to escape the close cross-examination to

which he had been so long subjected, and to see the Pastor's two boys

running out with eager curiosity to inspect the Englishman, and assist

in taking his luggage to the room apportioned to him.

"We shall have dinner shortly," said the Pastor. "Helga is not here to

meet us, and that is a sign that we shall not wait long. Karl and Axel

will show you your room and bring anything you may want, and help you

to unpack your portmanteaus."

John Hardy went to his room--a room with little furniture, but adapted

as a sitting-room or bedroom. The two boys, with the desire that all

boys have to be useful to a guest, assisted in undoing his luggage,

and John Hardy was soon ready to follow them to the little dining-room

of the parsonage.

The table was laid with a little bunch of wild flowers and grasses

here and there, but with little else. The Pastor received Hardy in a

more friendly manner than he had exhibited before, and his daughter

Helga appeared from a door leading from the kitchen, and was

introduced by her father. John Hardy saw a tall woman of twenty, with

fair hair and violet eyes, and bowed. The dinner was borne in by two

women-servants, and Helga signed to John Hardy where he should sit.

There was little conversation at dinner. John Hardy, for his part, was

hungry, and also knew little Danish; but gradually, as the more

substantial dishes disappeared, conversation arose, and John Hardy

turned its direction to the fishing in the Gudenaa.

"Your frank letters to me," said Hardy, "would not lead me to expect

much; but there are trout in the Gudenaa, and it might be that a few

might be caught."

"You will not catch them with a fly, after the English fashion," said

Karl. "An Englishman that came from Randers has been here, and he

caught three only in a whole day."

"I fear Karl is right," said the Pastor. "There is such an abundance

of fish-food in the Gudenaa, that a means of catching them that leaves

no option to the fish is apparently the only successful method."

"That is the very position that interests me," replied Hardy. "The

difficulty is the only pleasure in the sport."

"They fish with the lines set at night, baited with a small fish, and

catch, not only trout, but eels," said Karl. "You might try that. But

they do not catch many."

Helga had brought her father a large porcelain pipe with a long stem,

and the Pastor was smoking slowly and vigorously. Coffee was brought

in, and Helga offered Hardy a large pipe like her father's. This he

declined.

"Do you not smoke?" said the Pastor.

"Yes," replied Hardy; "but we are not accustomed to do so in a lady's

presence in England; and what an English gentleman would do in England

he should do in Denmark."

"Good," said the Pastor, "very good. But it is our custom to smoke.

The practice is habitual with us. Helga, will you speak?"

"I should be sorry you did not smoke, Herr Hardy," said Helga. "My

father likes to have some one smoking at the same time. It will be a

comfort to him."

So John lit a cigar with some misgiving; and he sent Karl up to his

room for a courier-bag, in which he had some fishing-books with

trout-flies. Karl and Axel looked at the English trout-flies with

interest.

"Those feathered things," said Karl, "I have seen used, but they only

catch small trout, and now and then a bleak. I have seen Englishmen

use them here from Randers."

John Hardy selected three flies and put them on a casting-line, and

wound it round his hat, and he said, "Now, will you two boys go with

me to fish at six o'clock to-morrow morning?"

"Yes, that will we," said Karl. "Kirstin will call us, and will have

coffee ready an hour earlier than usual, if you wish it."

"Am I disturbing your house, Herr Pastor," said Hardy, "by suggesting

this to your boys?"

"By no means," said the Pastor. "It is now Thursday, and we shall not

expect you to begin to teach them English until Monday, and the boys

can have a free time until then. We have breakfast at ten to eleven,

and you would have time to fish a little; and Kirstin will give you

some bread and butter and coffee at six."

"There is nothing unusual in this, Herr Hardy," said Froken Helga, in

reply to a look of surprise from Hardy. "It will put us to no

inconvenience."

"That may be," said the Pastor; "but I think you should clearly

understand that you are not likely to catch any trout."

"That," said Hardy, "we must leave to the trout to decide."

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