the air-bubbles, commencing in the centre, and working them out at the
sides; an ivory stick will be found useful in removing creases: you
now leave this to dry, and after twenty-four hours apply a slight coat
of the liqueur diaphane, leaving it another day, when, if dry, apply a
second coat of the same kind, which must be left several days;
finally, apply a coat of varnish over all.
2554. Probable Results.
If these directions are carefully followed, your glass will never be
affected by time or any variations in the weather; it will defy hail,
rain, frost, and dust, and can be washed the same as ordinary stained
glass, to which, in some respects, it is even superior.
2555. Application of Diaphanie.
It is impossible to enumerate the variety of articles to the
manufacture of which Diaphanie may be successfully applied, as it is
not confined to glass, but can be done on silk, parchment, paper,
linen, &c., _after they have been made transparent_ which may be
accomplished in the following manner:
2556. Management of Paper, &c.
Stretch your paper, or whatever it may be, on a frame or drawing
board, then apply two successive coats (a day between each) of
diaphanous liquor, and after leaving it to dry for _several_ days,
cover it with a thin layer of very clear size, and when dry it will be
in a fit state to receive the coat of varnish and the designs.
2557. Management of Textile Fabrics.
Silk, linen, or other stuffs should be more carefully stretched, and
receive a thicker coat of size than paper or parchment; the latter may
be strained on a drawing or any other smooth board, by damping the
sheet, and after pasting the edges, stretching it down while damp.
Silk, linen, and other stuffs require to be carefully stretched on a
suitable frame. _Whatever you use_, take great care to allow time to
dry before applying the liqueur diaphane.
2558. Screens, &c., in Diaphanie.
All kinds of screens, lamp shades and glasses, lanterns, &c., &c., may
be made in this way, as heat will produce no effect upon them. The
transparent pictures are successful, because they may be hung on a
window frame or removed at will, and the window blinds are superior to
anything of that kind yet produced.
2559. Vitremanie.
Vitremanie is a process of imitating painting on glass similar to
Diaphanie, and Potichomanie is a process of like nature by which glass
plates, vases, &c., are made to resemble porclain.
2560. Decalcomanie.
This recently discovered and beautiful art consists in transferring
coloured drawings to glass, porcelain, china, wood, silk, furniture,
plaster of Paris, alabaster, ivory, paper, paper hangings, windows,
tea trays, oil cloth, and all kinds of fancy articles; in short,
materials of any kind, shape, or size, provided they possess a smooth
surface, can be decorated with Decalcomanie; the immediate result
being an exact resemblance to painting by hand. The art itself is
simple and ingenious, and while affording agreeable occupation to
ladies, it may be made to serve many useful purposes, on account of
the numerous objects which will admit of being thus ornamented.
2561. Materials Employed in Decalcomanie.
i. A bottle of transfer varnish for fixing the drawings.
ii. A bottle of light varnish to pass over the drawings when fixed.
iii. A bottle of spirit to clean the brushes, and to remove those
pictures which may not be successful.
iv. A piece of beaver cloth about nine inches square.
v. A paper-knife and roller.
vi. Two or three camel-hair brushes.
vii. A basin of water.
viii. A bottle of opaque varnish.
2562. Instructions.
Thoroughly clean and free from grease the article to be decorated;
then, having cut off the white paper margin of the drawing, dip one of
the brushes into the transfer varnish, and give it a very light coat,
being especially careful to cover the whole of the coloured portion,
but not to allow it to touch the blank paper; then lay the drawing,
face downwards, on the object to be ornamented, taking care to place
it at once where it is to remain, as it would be spoilt by moving. If
the varnish, on its first application, is too liquid, allow the
picture to remain for about ten minutes to set.
Moisten the cloth with water, and lay it gently on the drawing which
has been previously laid in its place on the object to be decorated;
then rub it over with the paper-knife or roller, so as to cause the
print to adhere in every part; this done, remove the cloth, well soak
the paper with a camel-hair brush dipped in water, and immediately
after lift the paper by one corner, and gently draw it off.
The picture will be left on the object, while the paper will come off
perfectly white. Care must be taken that the piece of cloth, without
being too wet, is sufficiently so to saturate the paper completely.
The drawing must now be washed with a camel-hair brush, in clean
water, to remove the surplus varnish, and then left till quite dry. On
the following day, cover the picture with a light coat of the fixing
varnish, to give brilliancy to the colours.
[THE STRANGER IN HIS WRETCHEDNESS...]
2563. To Ornament Dark-coloured Objects.
To ornament dark-coloured objects, such as the bindings of books,
Russia leather, blotting-cases, leathern bags, &c., the picture must
be previously covered with a mixture of opaque white varnish, taking
care not to pass beyond the outline of the design. On the following
day, proceed according to the instructions given in the preceding
paragraph.
2564. To ornament Silk, Paper, or Articles which will not bear wetting.
Varnish the picture with the transfer varnish, as previously
explained, following the outline of the design, then allow it to dry
for an hour or two; when quite dry, pass a damp sponge over the entire
surface of the sheet, so as to remove the composition which surrounds
the picture, and which may spoil the object.
Let the paper dry once more, and varnish the picture again with the
transfer varnish; in about ten minutes, place it face downward on the
object to be decorated, and rub it with the paper-knife or roller,
over the whole of its surface. Finally, moisten the paper with a wet
brush, allow it to remain sufficiently long to become moist, then
strip the paper off.
_To remove a spoilt picture from any object,_ dip a soft rag in the
essence, and rub it over the surface.
2565. To Insure a Successful Result.
To insure a successful result, care must be taken to give a very light
coating of varnish to the parts to be transferred. When the varnish is
first applied it is very liquid, and must remain ten minutes, the best
condition for transferring being when the varnish is only just sticky,
without being too dry.
2566. The Following Designs will be found the most Elegant and
Appropriate.
English flowers of every variety: bouquets, tropical birds, flowers
and fruits in imitation of aqua-tint; garlands with cupids after
Watteau, and garlands with birds; domestic scenes; pears and cherries,
apples and plums, white grapes and plums, black grapes and peaches,
plums and mulberries, large bouquet of roses; bouquets of moss roses
and pansies.; bouquets of small camellias; bouquets of wall-flowers
and poppies; bouquets of orange-blossom, medallions, various subjects;
birds'-nests; Gothic initials and monograms, fleurs-de-lis; borders
various.
2567. Heraldic Decalcomanie.
Heraldic Decalcomanie is an extended application of this art, the arms
and crests of persons or families being emblazoned in their proper
colours according to the rules of heraldry, and prepared for
Decalcomanie. Armorial bearings, thus embellished, serve admirably to
ornament and identify the books of a library and pictures of a
gallery, to decorate menus for dinner, the invitations to a soirée,
&c. By their brilliant colours they give an elegant effect to the
table decorations.
2568. Croquet.
This out-door pastime is of comparatively modern creation, and until
quite lately was very much in vogue. It nay be played by persons of
all ages and of either sex; but it is especially adapted for ladies
and young persons, as it demands but slight personal exertion, while
it affords delightful and health-giving sport.
2569. The Ground.
The ground is preferably a grass plot of an oblong form; but an
ordinary lawn or expanse of even turf will answer the purpose, so long
as it is of sufficient extent for the operations of the game.
2570. Implements.
The implements are balls, mallets, starting and turning pegs, croquet
clips or markers, hoops or arches.
2571. Arrangement of the Hoops.
As much of the interest of this game depends upon the arrangement of
the hoops, it is essential that they should be fixed in the ground on
definite principles. In the first place, the starting peg is driven
in at one end of the ground, and the turning peg is driven in at the
other extremity. From each of these pegs a space of twelve feet
intervenes; here a hoop is fixed; another space of ten feet
intervenes, when a second hoop is fixed; a space of eight feet then
succeeds, and at this point is formed what may be termed the base, on
each side of which, at a distance of twenty feet, and succeeding each
other at intervals of ten feet, three hoops are driven in. By this
arrangement, a square is formed, the starting peg leading into its
centre, and the turning peg leading from it. Where the ground is
small, the distances may be contracted proportionally. Other
arrangements of the hoops may he made at the discretion of the
players, but the first-named plan will be found best worthy of
adoption, as it affords the most excellent opportunities for the
display of address and skill.
2572. The Game.
The game consists in striking the balls from the starting peg through
the hoops to the peg at the opposite extremity. The balls are then
driven back again to the starting peg. The game may be played by any
number of persons not exceeding eight. A larger number renders the
game tedious. The best number is four. If two only piay, each player
may take two balls, and when as many as eight play, there should be
two sides or sets. Each player takes a mallet, ball, and croquet clip
of the same colour or number, the clip being used to indicate the hoop
at which, in his turn, he aims. The division into sides, choice of
balls, mallets, &c., is determined by the players among themselves.
2573. Laws of Croquet.
In this game, as with many other sports when first established, there
were differences of opinion on certain points of practice. In 1870,
however, at a conference of Croquet players, the following rules were
settled and adopted. They are now accepted by all players.
i. There shall be no restriction to the number, weight, size, shape,
or material of the mallets: nor as to the attitude or position of
the striker.
ii. The players shall toss for choice of lead and of balls: and a
succession of games shall take the lead alternately and keep the
same balls.
iii. In commencing, each ball shall be placed at one foot from the
first hoop in a direct line between the pegs; and a ball having been
struck is at once in play, and croquetable whether it shall have
made the first hoop or not.
iv. A stroke is considered to have been taken if a ball is moved
perceptibly; but should the player have struck it accidentally, and
the umpire be satisfied that the stroke was accidental, the ball is
replaced and the stroke taken again.
v. If the player make a foul stroke he loses his turn and all the
points made therein, and the balls remain where they lie, at the
option of the adversary. The following are considered foul strokes:
(_a_) To strike with the mallet another ball instead of or besides
one's own in making the stroke.
(_b_) To spoon, that is, to push a ball without an audible knock.
(_c_) To strike a ball twice in the same stroke.
(_d_) To stop a ball with the foot in taking a loose Croquet.
(_e_) To allow a ball to touch the mallet in rebounding from the
turning peg.
(_f_) To fail to stir the passive ball in taking Croquet.
(_g_) If a player, in striking at a ball which lies against a peg
or wire, should move it from its position by striking a peg or
wire, the ball must be replaced, and the stroke taken again.
vi. A player continues to play so long as he makes a point or hits a
ball. A point consists in making a hoop or hitting the turning peg
in order.
vii. The ball has made its hoop when, having passed through from the
playing side and ceased to roll, it cannot be touched by a
straight-edge placed across the wires on the side from which it was
played.
viii. A player who hits a ball must take Croquet: that is, must
strike his own ball while in contact with the other, so as
perceptibly to stir both. In doing this he is _not_ allowed to place
his foot on his ball. A player, when his turn comes round, may hit
and Croquet each ball in succession, and can do this again after
each point made, but between the points can only take Croquet once
off each ball.
ix. A playing ball which hits another after making a point is in
hand, and the striker can score no point till he has taken Croquet.
After hitting another, a ball may be stopped by any player; but
should it, in rolling, displace any of the other balls, such balls
must remain where they are driven.
x. When, at the commencement of a turn, two balls are found
touching, Croquet must be taken at once, without repeating the hit.
xi. When a player, in his stroke, hits one or more balls, he must
take Croquet off the ball that is struck first; but if he has hit
two simultaneously, he may choose from which of them he will take
it, and in both cases a second hit is required before he can take it
from the other ball.
xii. Should the ball in making its hoop strike another that lies
beyond the hoop and then pass through it, the hoop and the hit both
count; but, should any part of the ball that is hit have been lying
beneath the hoop, the Croquet must be taken, but the hoop does not
count.
xiii. A rover which strikes or is driven by another ball against the
winning peg is out of the game, and must be removed from the ground.
xiv. A player who pegs out a rover by a first hit cannot take
Croquet from it, as the ball is out of the game, and he is not
entitled to another stroke.
xv. Should a player play out of his turn, or with a wrong ball, and
this be discovered by his antagonist before a second stroke in error
has been made, the turn is lost, and all points made after the
mistake, and the balls shall remain as they lay at the time the
mistake was discovered, or be replaced to the satisfaction of the
antagonist. But if he has made a second stroke before the error is
discovered, he continues his break, and the next player follows with
the ball that is next in rotation to the one with which he has
played, and is liable to lose his turn, and all points made therein,
if he plays with that which would have been the right ball if no
mistake had been made.
xvi. Should a player make the wrong hoop by mistake, or Croquet a
ball that he is not entitled to Croquet, and the mistake be
discovered before he has made a second stroke, he loses his turn,
and any point so made in error; but if he has made a second stroke
before the discovery, he shall be allowed to continue his break.
xvii. In order to prevent the occurrence of the errors noticed in
the above rules (Nos. xv. and xvi), a player is bound, upon being
appealed to, to declare truly what is his next hoop or point in
order, and is entitled to demand of his antagonist what he his
played last, and to insist upon his clip being properly placed.
xviii. When clips are used they should be moved by the umpire, or
with his cognisance, at the end of each turn, and their position
shall he conclusive as to the position of the balls in the game.
xix. Should a ball in play be accidentally stopped by the umpire, he
places it where he considers that it would have rolled to. Should it
be stopped by a player, it will rest with the side opposed to that
player to say whether the ball shall remain where it stopped, or be
placed by the umpire, or the stroke be taken again.
xx. If a ball lies within a mallet's length of the boundary, and is
not the playing ball, it must at once be put out three feet at right
angles from the boundary; but if it is the playing ball, it may, at
the discretion of the player, either be put out or played from where
it lies.
xxi. If it is found that the height of the boundary interferes with
the stroke, the player may, at the umpire's discretion, bring out
the ball so far as to allow of the free swing of the mallet, and in
taking a Croquet both the balls.
xxii. Should a player, in trying to make his hoop, knock a wire out
of the ground with his ball or mallet, the stroke shall be taken
again.
xxiii. Any player may set upright a peg or hoop except the one next
in order; and that, however loose, awry, or slanting it may be, must
not be altered except by the umpire.
xxiv. No ball may be moved because of its lying in a hole or on bad
ground, except by the umpire or with his permission.
xxv. Where there is no umpire present, permission to move a ball, or
to set up a hoop or peg or other indulgence for which an umpire
would have been appealed to, must be asked of the other side.
xxvi. The decision of the umpire shall in all cases be final. His
duties are:
(_a_) To move the clips, or see that they are properly moved;
(_b_) to decide on the application of the laws;
(_c_) to satisfy any player as to the point that is next to be
made, or the right ball to play;
(_d_) to keep the score. But he shall not give his opinion, or
notice any error that may be made, unless appealed to by one of
the players.
xxvii. It was also decided that the mallet should be held within
twelve inches of its head.
2574. Supplementary Laws.
The following were added from the Draft Club Laws of Croquet.
i. If a ball be driven partly through its hoop from the non-playing
side, and remain so that a straight-edge placed in contact with the
hoop on the non-playing side touches the ball, the ball cannot run
its hoop at its next stroke.
ii. If in taking Croquet the striker's ball go off the ground, the
striker loses the remainder of his turn; but if by the same stroke
the striker make a point or a Croquet, he continues his turn.
iii. If, after a Croquet, the striker's ball, while rolling, be
touched by the striker or his partner, the stroke is foul.
2575. Difference between Old and New Laws.
The chief difference (says Captain Crawley) between these and previous
laws will be found in the method of taking the Croquet. The new laws
say that the foot must _not_ be placed on the player's ball; the
generally accepted practice was to take the Croquet by putting your
foot on your ball and striking it so as to send the other bill off to
a distance; or if the other ball belonged to your partner to merely
tap it in the direction desired. The foot practice is still observed
by many players; and some think with advantage.
2576. Technical Terms Used in Croquet.
i. _Roquet_.--To strike another ball with your own.
ii. _Croquet_.--When two balls are in contact, the player strikes
the other away, either with or without putting the foot on your own
ball, as may be previously arranged.
iii. A _loose Croquet_ is made by striking your opponent's ball
without putting your foot on your own ball. In taking "two off" it
is, however, necessary that the ball should be seen to move.
iv. _Wired_.--A ball is in contact with a hoop, so as to prevent it
going through.
v. _Bridge Ball_.--One that has passed the first arch.
vi. _Dead Ball_.--One in hand after having roqueted another.
vii. _To Peg_.--To play for either of the pegs in regular order.
viii. _The Tour_.--The run given to each player till he fails to
strike through a hoop.
ix. _To Dismiss_ a ball is to Croquet it to a distance.
x. _Rover_.--You become a Rover when you have completed the hoops
from point to point, and instead of hitting the starting-peg and
retiring, you prefer to strike your ball to any part of the ground,
croqueting friends or foes.
xi. The terms side stroke, straight stroke, following ball,
over-running a bridge, running a bridge, &c., explain themselves.
2577. Bagatelle.
An indoor game played on an oblong board usually from six to ten feet
long by a foot and a half to three feet in width. The bed of the table
is of slate covered with a fine green cloth; and at the upper end,
which is rounded, there are nine holes or cups, numbered from 1 to 9,
thus:
5
3 2
8 9 7
4 6
1
Into these holes ivory balls are driven by a leather pointed cue. The
player stands at the lower end of the table; and his object is to hole
the balls sucessively into the several cups. Nine balls are used,
eight white and one red; or seven white with two coloured balls. The
red is placed on a spot just in front of the 1 hole; and the game is
played according to the following:
2578. Rules.
i. Any number of persons may play, whether singly or on sides.
ii. Each player strings for lead, and he whose ball falls into the
highest hole begins.
iii. The winner of the lead plays the nine balls successively up the
table from baulk, first striking at the red ball on the spot.
iv. The red ball counts double when holed, and each white ball
scores towards game a number corresponding to that marked in the
hole (when two coloured balls are used, each counts double).
v. The red ball must be first struck; and the rest of the balls are
played up to the holes, the sum total of all the holes filled being
the striker's score.
vi. Any number of rounds agreed on may be played, and the highest
aggregate total by a player or by partners wins the game.
vii. A ball rebounding beyond the baulk line, or forced off the
table, is put aside and not re-used in that round.
2579. The French Game (or Sans Egal).
The French Game (or Sans Egal) is played as follows:--The player who
wins the lead takes four balls, leaving the other four for his
opponent, and placing the black ball on the spot. He plays at it from
baulk, and scores all he can. The other player then strikes up one of
his balls, and so on alternately; the maker of the highest number of
points winning. While the coloured ball is on the table, it must be
struck, and when it is holed it counts double, in addition to any
other score made by the same stroke. If either player hole his
adversary's ball he forfeits to him the number scored by the stroke.
If he fail to strike the black ball he forfeits five points. The rules
as to rebounding balls, foul strokes, &c., are the same as in the
ordinary game.
2580. Old Canon Game.
Old Canon Game, sometimes played on a table without holes or pockets,
consists entirely of canons--two balls struck in succession by the
player's ball. The game, 50 or 100 up, each canon counting two points,
is played with three balls only--a white, spot-white, and black (or
red) ball. When played on the ordinary bagatelle table, the holes
filled after making a canon score to the player. One point is
forfeited for missing the white, five points for missing the red; and
all points made without a canon. The players go on alternately, the
first who scores the stipulated number winning the game.
2581. Other Games.
Mississippi, Trou Madame, Cockamaroo, and other toy-games are
sometimes played on the bagatelle table; but they need no description.
To play well at any of the games, however, requires great care and
nicety. Much depends on the manner of holding and using the cue, and
the slight degree of force employed in making the stroke. Some experts
are able to fill all the holes at one essay, placing the coloured
balls in the 8 and 7 at the first stroke, and then playing direct at
the cups or at the cushion, till all the balls are holed. At the
French Game a hundred or more canons at a break is by no means unusual.
2582. Billiards.
This well-known game of skill is played on a rectangular table with
three ivory balls,--white, spot-white, and red; the object being to
drive one or other of them into either of the six pockets, and to
strike one ball against the two others. The first stroke is known as a
hazard, and the second as a canon. The instrument for striking at the
ball, is a long tapering stick called a cue; and the game is scored by
hazards, canons, misses, and forfeitures. The ball struck with the
cue is known as the player's ball; the ball played as the object ball.
A ball struck into a pocket, is a winning hazard; the player's ball
falling into a pocket after contact with the white or red, is a losing
hazard. Three principal games are played on the billiard table--the
English game, or Billiards, Pyramids, and Pool.
2583. English Billiards.