pound up the sal-ammoniac into small bits, and mix them gently with
the salts of tartar. After being well mixed, add a few drops of oil of
lavender, sufficient to scent, and also a little musk; stop up in a
glass bottle, and when required for use, add a few drops of water, or
spirits of hartshorn, when you will immediately have strong smelling
salts. The musk being expensive, may be omitted, as the salts will be
good without it. Any person can for a few pence obtain these
ingredients at any druggist's, and they will make salts, which, to buy
prepared, would cost, at the least, eighteen pence.
2467. Destruction of Rats.
The following receipt for the destruction originated with Dr. Ure, and
is highly recommended as the best known means of getting rid of these
most obnoxious and destructive vermin.
Melt hog's-lard in a bottle plunged in water, heated to about 150
degrees of Fahrenheit; introduce into it half an ounce of phosphorus
for every pound of lard; then add a pint of proof spirit, or whisky;
cork the bottle firmly after its contents have been heated to 150
degrees, taking it at the same time out of the water, and agitate
smartly till the phosphorus becomes uniformly diffused, forming a
milky-looking liquid. This liquid, being cooled, will afford a white
compound of phosphorus and lard, from which the spirit spontaneously
separates, and may be poured off to be used again for the same
purpose, but not for drinking, for none of it enters into the
combination, but it merely serves to comminute the phosphorus, and
diffuse it in very small particles through the lard.
This compound, on being warmed very gently, may be poured out into a
mixture of wheat flour and sugar, incorporated therewith, and then
flavoured with oil of rhodium, or not, at pleasure. The flavour may be
varied with oil of aniseed, &c. This dough, being made into pellets,
is to be laid into rat-holes. By its luminousness in the dark, it
attracts their notice, and being agreeable to their palates and noses,
it is readily eaten, and proves certainly fatal.
2468. To Kill Slugs (1).
Take a quantity of cabbage leaves, and either put them into a warm
oven, or heat them before the fire till they get quite soft; then rub
them with unsalted butter, or any kind of fresh dripping, and lay them
in places infested with slugs. In a few hours the leaves will be found
covered with snails and slugs, which may then, of course, be destroyed
in any way the gardener may think fit.
2469. To Destroy Slugs (2).
Slugs are very voracious, and their ravages often do considerable
damage, not only to the kitchen garden, but to the flower-beds also.
If, now and then, a few slices of turnip be put about the beds, on a
summer or autumnal evening, the slugs will congregate thereon, and may
be destroyed.
2470. To Exterminate Beetles.
i. Place a few lumps of unslaked lime where they frequent.
ii. Set a dish or trap containing a little beer or syrup at the
bottom, and place a few sticks slanting against its sides, so as to
form a sort of gangway for the beetles to climb up it, when they
will go headlong into the bait set for them.
iii. Mix equal weights of red lead, sugar, and flour, and place it
nightly near their haunts. This mixture, made into sheets, forms the
beetle wafers sold at the oil shops.
[WHERE REASON RULES APPETITE OBEYS.]
2471. To Kill Cockroaches.
A teacupful of well-bruised plaster of Paris, mixed with double the
quantity of oatmeal, to which a little sugar may be added, although
this last-named ingredient is not essential. Strew it on the floor, or
in the chinks where they frequent.
2472. Earwigs.
Earwigs are very destructive insects, their favourite food being the
petals of roses, pinks, dahlias, and other flowers. They may be caught
by driving stakes into the ground, and placing on each an inverted
flower-pot, for the earwigs will climb up and take refuge under the
pot, when they may be taken out and killed. Clean bowls of
tobacco-pipes, placed in like manner on the tops of smaller sticks,
are very good traps: or very deep holes may be made in the ground with
a crowbar, into which they will fall, and may be destroyed by boiling
water.
2473. To Destroy Ants.
Drop some quicklime on the mouth of their nest, and wash it in with
boiling water; or dissolve some camphor in spirits of wine, then mix
with water, and pour into their haunts; or tobacco-water, which has
been found effectual. They are averse to strong scents. Camphor, or a
sponge saturated with creosote, will prevent their infesting a
cupboard. To prevent their climbing up trees, place a ring of tar
about the trunk, or a circle of rag moistened occasionally with
creosote.
2474. To Prevent Moths.
In the month of April or May, beat your fur garments well with a small
cane or elastic stick, then wrap them up in linen, without pressing
the fur too hard, and put betwixt the folds some camphor in small
lumps; then put your furs in this state in boxes well closed. When the
furs are wanted for use, beat them well as before, and expose them for
twenty-four hours to the air, which will take away the smell of the
camphor. If the fur has long hair, as bear or fox, add to the camphor
an equal quantity of black pepper in powder.
2475. To get rid of Moths.
i. Procure shavings of cedar wood, and enclose in muslin bags, which
can be distributed freely among the clothes.
ii. Procure shavings of camphor wood, and enclose in bags.
iii. Sprinkle pimento (allspice) berries among the clothes.
iv. Sprinkle the clothes with the seeds of the musk plant.
v. To destroy the eggs--when deposited in woollen cloths, &c., use a
solution of acetate of potash in spirits of rosemary, fifteen grains
to the pint.
2476. Bugs.
Spirits of naphtha rubbed with a small painter's brush into every part
of a bedstead is a certain way of getting rid of bugs. The mattress
and binding of the bed should be examined, and the same process
attended to, as they generally harbour more in these parts than in the
bedstead. Three pennyworth of naphtha is sufficient for one bed.
2477. Bug Poison.
Proof spirit, one pint; camphor, two ounces; oil of turpentine, four
ounces: corrosive sublimate, one ounce, mix. A correspondent says,
"I have been for a long time troubled with bugs, and never could get
rid of them by any clean and expeditious method, until a friend told
me to suspend a small bag of camphor to the bed, just in the centre,
overhead. I did so, and the enemy was most effectually repulsed, and
has not made his appearance since--not even for a reconnaissance!"
This is a simple method of getting rid of these pests, and is worth a
trial to see if it be effectual in other cases.
2478. Mixture for Destroying Flies (1).
Infusion of quassia, one pint; brown sugar, four ounces; ground
pepper, two ounces. To be well mixed together, and put in small
shallow dishes when required.
2479. To Destroy Flies (2).
To destroy flies in a room, take half a teaspoonful of black pepper in
powder, one teaspoonful of brown sugar, and one tablespoonful of
cream, mix them well together, and place them in the room on a plate,
where the flies are troublesome, and they will soon disappear.
[WHEN APPETITE COMMANDS, THE POCKET PAYS.]
2480. Flies (3).
Cold green tea, very strong and sweetened with sugar, will, when set
about the room in saucers, attract flies and destroy them.
2481. Inks.
There are many receipts published for making ink; the following is as
useful and economical a mode of producing good ink as any of them:
2482. Dr. Ure's Ink.
For twelve gallons of ink take twelve pounds of bruised galls, five
pounds of gum, five pounds of green sulphate of iron, and twelve
gallons of rain-water. Boil the galls with nine gallons of the water
for three hours, adding fresh water to supply that lost in vapour; let
the decoction settle, and draw off the clear liquor. Add to it the
gum, previously dissolved in one and a half gallons of water; dissolve
the green vitriol separately in one and a half gallons of water, and
mix the whole.
2483. Ink Powder.
Ink powder is formed of the dry ingredients for ink, powdered and
mixed. Powdered galls, two pounds; powdered green vitriol, one pound;
powdered gum, eight ounces. Two ounces of this mixture will make one
pint of ink. Cost: galls, 1s. 4d. per pound; green vitriol, 1d. per
pound; powdered gum, 1s. 5d. per pound.
2484. Red Writing Ink.
Best ground Brazil wood, four ounces; diluted acetic acid, one pint;
alum, half an ounce. Boil the ingredients slowly in an enamelled
vessel for one hour, strain, and add an ounce of gum.
2485. Marking Ink without Preparation.
There are several receipts for this ink, but the following is said to
be one of the best of its kind:
Dissolve separately, one ounce of nitrate of silver, and one and a
half ounce of best washing soda in distilled or rain water. Mix the
solutions, and collect and wash the precipitate in a filter; whilst
still moist, rub it up in a marble or Wedgwood mortar with three
drachms of tartaric acid; add two ounces of distilled water, mix six
drachms of white sugar, and ten drachms of powdered gum arabic, half
an ounce of archil, and water to make up six ounces in measure.
2486a. Ink for Zinc Garden Labels.
Verdigris, one ounce; sal-ammoniac, one ounce; lampblack, half an
ounce; water, half a pint. Mix in an earthenware mortar, without using
a metal spatula.
_Directions_.--To be shaken before use, and used with a clean _quill_
pen, on bright zinc.
_Note_.--Another kind of ink for zinc is also used, made of chloride
of platinum, five grains, dissolved in one ounce of distilled or rain
water; but the first, which is much less expensive, answers perfectly,
if used as directed, on clean bright zinc.
2486b. Manifold Writing [1].
The demand for a rapid and simple method of multiplying letters,
circulars, &c., has led in recent years to the invention of several
ingenious processes. So few copies are obtainable by the ordinary
reporters' system of sheets of tissue paper, or "flimsy," interleaved
with sheets of prepared black paper, that various kinds of "graphs"
have been produced, by which upwards of a hundred, and in some cases
many more, copies may be produced from one writing.
The "graph" process usually consists of transferring a writing made in
an aniline dye on to a gelatine surface, from which, by the
application of successive sheets of paper, subjected to a smoothing
pressure by the hand, a number of copies may be obtained, in a manner
very similar to the ordinary lithographic process. All those which may
be classed as "gelatine transfer" processes are, however, open to the
objection that, after a certain number of copies, the colour grows
very faint.
Some other methods of manifold writing, such es the Edison, the
Trypograph, the Cyclostyle, &c. (by which 1,000 copies can be taken
from one writing), do not possess this fault, being based on a
principle of a fine stencil on prepared paper, and squeezing ink
through the minute perforations on to a sheet of paper fixed
underneath. The writing in these stencil systems, however, has a
"dotty" and broken appearance, displeasing to many eyes--the
Cyclostyle being, perhaps, least faulty in this respect. For those who
would like to make a gelatine "graph," we append the following recipe:
Six parts by weight of pure glycerine, four parts by weight of water,
two parts of barium sulphate, and one part of sugar. Mix them, and let
them soak for twenty-four hours; then melt at a gentle heat, stir
until thoroughly mixed, and pour the composition into a tray. Any
chemist will supply an aniline dye for the ink.
[Footnote 1: Both these sections were numbered 2486 in the original
text. txt Ed.]
[EVERY PEA HELPS TO FILL THE PECK.]
2487. Cements.
The term "cement" includes all those substances employed for the
purpose of causing the adhesion of two or more bodies, whether
originally separate, or divided by an accidental fracture. As the
various substances that may require cementing differ very much in
texture, &c., a number of cements possessed of very different
properties are required, because a cement that answers admirably under
one set of circumstances may be perfectly useless in others. The
general principles upon which the success or failure of cementing
usually depends are:
The different parts of a solid are held together by an attraction
between their several particles, which is termed the attraction of
cohesion. This attraction acts only when the particles are in the
closest possible contact: even air must not be between them. If, after
breaking any substance, we could bring the particles into as close a
contact as before, and perfectly exclude the air, they would re-unite,
and be as strongly connected as ever. But in general this is
impossible: small particles of grit and dust get between them; the
film of interposed air cannot be removed; and thus, however firmly we
press the edges of a broken cup together, it remains cracked china
still.
The cohesion between the particles of the cement is very much less
than the adhesion of the cement to other bodies; and if torn apart,
the connected joint gives way, not by the loosening of the adhesion,
but by the layer of cement splitting down the centre. Hence the
important rule that the _less_ cement in a joint the stronger it is.
To unite broken substances with a thick cement is disadvantageous, the
object being to bring the surfaces as closely together as possible.
The general principles that ought always to be borne in mind having
been mentioned, the manufacture and uses of some of the more useful
cements may be described.
2488. Mouth Glue.
The very useful preparation sold under this title is merely a thin
cake of soluble glue, which, when moistened with the tongue, furnishes
a ready means of uniting papers, &c. It is made by dissolving one
pound of fine glue or gelatine in water, and adding half a pound of
brown sugar, boiling the whole until it is sufficiently thick to
become solid on cooling; it is then poured into moulds, or on a slab
slightly greased, and cut into the required shape when cool. (_See_
LIQUID GLUE, No. 2491.)
[ECONOMY IS THE HOUSEHOLD MINT.]
2489. Paste.
Paste is usually made by rubbing up flour with cold water, and
boiling; if a little alum is mixed before boiling it is much improved,
being less clammy, working more freely in the brush, and thinner, a
less quantity is required, and it is therefore stronger. If required
in large quantity, as for papering rooms, it may be made by mixing one
quartern of flour, one quarter pound of alum, and a little warm water;
when mixed, the requisite quantity of boiling water should be poured
on whilst the mixture is being stirred. Paste is only adapted to
cementing paper; when used it should spread on one side of the paper,
which should then be folded with the pasted side inwards, and allowed
to remain a few minutes before being opened and used; this swells the
paper, and permits its being mere smoothly and securely attached. If
kept for a few days, paste becomes mouldy, and after a short time
putrid; this inconveince may be obviated by the use of:
2490. Permanent Paste.
Permanent Paste, made by adding to each half-pint of flour paste
without alum, fifteen grains of corrosive sublimate, previously rubbed
to powder in a mortar, the whole to be well mixed; this, if prevented
from drying, by being kept in a covered pot, remains good any length
of time, and is therefore convenient; but unfortunately it is
extremely poisonous, though its excessively nauseous taste would
prevent its being swallowed accidentally. It possesses the great
advantage of not being liable to the attacks of insects.
2491. Liquid Glue.
The liquid glue of the shops is made by dissolving shelac in water, by
boiling it along with borax, which posesses the peculiar property of
causing the solution of the resinous lac. This preparation is
convenient from its cheapness and freedom from smell; but it gives way
if exposed to long-continued damp, which that made with naphtha
resists.
2492. Common Glue.
Of the use of _common glue_ very little need be said; it should always
be prepared in a gluepot or double vessel, to prevent its being
burned, which injures it very materially. The chief objection to the
use of this contrivance is, that it renders it impossible to heat the
glue in the inner vessel to the boiling point; this, however, can be
obviated by employing in the outer vessel some liquid which boils at a
higher temperature than pure water, such as a saturated solution of
salt (made by adding one-third as much salt as water). This boils at
224° Fahr., 12° above the heat of boiling water, and enables the glue
in the inner vessel to be heated to a much higher temperature than
when pure water is employed. If a saturated solution of nitre is used,
the temperature rises still higher.
2493. Diamond Cement.
Soak isinglass in water till it is soft; then dissolve it in the
smallest possible quantity of proof spirit, by the aid of a gentle
heat; in two ounces of this mixture dissolve ten grains of ammoniacum,
and whilst still liquid add half a drachm of mastic, dissolved in
three drachms of rectified spirit; stir well together, and put into
small bottles for sale.
_Directions for Use_.--Liquefy the cement by plunging the bottle in
hot water, and use it directly. The cement improves the oftener the
bottle is thus warmed; it resists the action of water and moisture
perfectly.
2494. Rice Flour Cement.
An excellent cement may be made from rice flour, which is at present
used for that purpose in China and Japan. It is only necessary to mix
the rice flour intimately with cold water, and gently simmer it over a
fire, when it readily forms a delicate and durable cement, not only
answering all the purposes of common paste, but admirably adapted for
joining together paper, cards, &c., in forming the various beautiful
and tasteful ornaments which afford much employment and amusement to
the ladies. When made of the consistence of plaster-clay, models,
busts, bas-relievos, &c., may be formed of it; and the articles, when
dry, are susceptible of high polish, and are very durable.
2495. Using Egg.
The white of an egg, well beaten with quicklime, and a small quantity
of very old cheese, forms an excellent substitute for cement, when
wanted in a hurry, either for broken china or old ornamental glassware.
2496. Cement for Broken China, Glass, &c.
This cement being nearly colourless, possesses advantages which liquid
glue and other cements do not.--Dissolve half an ounce of gum acacia,
in a wineglass of boiling water; add plaster of Paris sufficient to
form a thick paste, and apply it with a brush, to the parts required
to be cemented together.
[AT NIGHT NATURE IS IN MOURNING FOR THE LOSS OF THE SUN.]
2497. Lime and Egg Cement.
Lime and Egg Cement is frequently made by moistening the edges to be
united with white of egg, dusting on some lime from a piece of muslin,
and bringing the edges into contact. A much better mode is to slake
some freshly-burned lime with a small quantity of _boiling_ water;
this occasions it to fall into a very fine dry powder, if excess of
water has not been added. The white of egg used should be intimately
and thoroughly mixed, by beating with an equal bulk of water, and the
slaked lime added to the mixture, so as to form a thin paste, which
should be used speedily, as it soon sets. This is a valuable cement,
possessed of great strength, and capable of withstanding boiling
water. Cements made with lime and blood, scraped cheese, or curd, may
be regarded as inferior varieties of it.
2498. White Lead as Cement.
Cracked vessels of earthenware and glass may often be usefully, though
not ornamentally, repaired by white lead spread on strips of calico,
and secured with bands of twine.
2499. Marine Glue.
In point of strength, all ordinary cements yield the palm to Jeffery's
Patent Marine Glue, a compound of India-rubber, shellac, and coal-tar
naphtha. Small quantities can be purchased at most of the tool
warehouses, at cheaper rates than it can be made. The colour of this
glue, however, prevents its being much used.
2500. Coaguline.
An exceedingly strong, and at the same time a transparent and
colourless cement is made by Messrs. Kay Brothers, of Stockport, and
is sold by most fancy stationers and chemists under the name of
Coaguline. It is easily and quickly applied, and will be found
extremely serviceable in repairing glass, china, and stone articles.
It is inexpensive.
2501. Red Cement .
Red Cement which is employed by instrument makers for cementing glass
to metals, and which is very cheap, and exceedingly useful for a
variety of purposes, is made by melting five parts of black rosin, one
part of yellow wax, and then stirring in gradually one part of red
ochre or Venetian red, in fine powder, and previously _well dried_.
This cement requires to be melted before use, and it adheres better if
the objects to which it is applied are warmed.
2502. A Soft Cement for Corks.
A soft cement, of a somewhat similar character to that just described,
is useful for covering the corks of preserved fruit, and other
bottles. It is made by melting yellow wax with an equal quantity of
rosin, or of common turpentine (not oil of turpentine, but the resin),
using the latter for a very soft cement, and stirring in, as before,
some dried Venetian red.
2503. Mastic Cement.
This is employed for making a superior coating to inside walls, but
must not be confounded with the _resin mastic_. It is made by mixing
twenty parts of well-washed and sifted sharp sand with two parts of
litharge and one of freshly burned and slaked quicklime, in fine _dry_
powder. This is made into a putty, by mixing with linseed oil. It
sets in a few hours, having the appearance of light stone; and we
mention it, as it may be frequently employed with advantage in
repairing broken stone-work (as steps), by filling up the missing
parts. The employment of Roman cement, plaster, &c., for masonry
work, hardly comes within the limits of Domestic Manipulation.
2504. Cement for Leather and Cloth.
An adhesive material for uniting the parts of boots and shoes, and for
the seams of articles of clothing, may be made thus:--Take one pound
of gutta-percha, four ounces of India rubber, two ounces of pitch, one
ounce of shellac, two ounces of oil. The ingredients are to be melted
together, and used hot.
[GO TO BED WITH THE LAMB AND RISE WITH THE LARK.]
2505. Birdlime.
Take any quantity of linseed oil, say half a pint; put it into an old
pot, or any vessel that will stand the fire without breaking--the
vessel must not be more than one-third full; put it on a slow fire,
stir it occasionally until it thickens as much as required; this will
be known by cooling the stick in water, and trying it with the
fingers. It is best to make it rather harder than for use. Then pour
it into cold water. It can be brought back to the consistency required
with a little Archangel tar.
2506. Anglo-Japanese Work.
This is an elegant and easy domestic art. Take yellow withered
leaves, dissolve gum, black paint, copal varnish, &c. Any articles,
such as an old tea-caddy, flower-pots, fire-screens, screens of all
descriptions, work-boxes, &c., may be ornamented with these simple
materials. Select perfect leaves, dry and press them between the
leaves of books; rub the surface of the article to be ornamented with
fine sand paper, then give it a coat of fine black paint, which should
be procured mixed at a colour shop.
When dry rub smooth with pumice-stone, and give two other coats. Dry.
Arrange leaves in any manner and variety, according to taste. Gum the
leaves on the under side, and press them upon their places. Then
dissolve some isinglass in hot water, and brush it over the work. Dry.
Give three coats of copal varnish, allowing ample time for each coat
to dry. Articles thus ornamented last for years, and are very
pleasing.
2507. Ornamental Leather Work.