For a quart mould--dissolve two ounces of isinglass in a pint and

three quarters of water; strain it, and add three quarters of a pound

of sifted loaf sugar, the juice of six lemons and the rind of one;

boil the whole for a few minutes, strain it again, and let it stand

till quite cold and just beginning to stiffen; then beat the whites of

two eggs, and put them to it, and whisk till it is quite white; put it

into a mould, which must be first wetted with cold water. Salad oil is

much better than water for preparing the mould for turning out jelly,

blancmange, &c., but great care must be taken not to pour the jelly

into the mould till _quite cool_, or the oil will float on the top,

and after it is turned out it must be carefully wiped over with a

clean cloth. This plan only requires to be tried once to be invariably

adopted.

2122. Almond Custards.

Blanch and pound fine, with half a gill of rose water, six ounces of

sweet and half an ounce of bitter almonds; boil a pint of milk, with a

few coriander seeds, a little cinnamon, and some lemon-peel; sweeten

it with two ounces and a half of sugar, rub the almonds through a fine

sieve, with a pint of cream; strain the milk to the yolks of eight

eggs, and the whites of three well beaten; stir it over a fire till it

is of a good thickness, take it off the fire, and stir it till nearly

cold, to prevent its curdling.

2123. Arrowroot Blancmange.

A teacupful of arrowroot to a pint of milk; boil the milk with twelve

sweet and six bitter almonds, blanched and beaten; sweeten with loaf

sugar, and strain it; break the arrowroot with a little of the milk as

smooth as possible; pour the boiling milk upon it by degrees, stir the

while; put it back into the pan and boil a few minutes, still

stirring: dip the shape in cold water before you put it in, and turn

it out when cold.

2124. Red Currant Jelly.

With three parts of fine ripe red currants mix one of white currants;

put them into a clean preserving-pan, and stir them gently over a

clear fire until the juice flows from them freely; then turn them in a

fine hair sieve, and let them drain well, but without pressure. Pass

the juice through a folded muslin, or a jelly bag; weigh it, and then

boil it _fast_ for a quarter of an hour; add for each pound, eight

ounces of sugar coarsely powdered, stir this to it off the fire until

it is dissolved, give the jelly eight minutes more of quick boiling,

and pour it out. It will be firm, and of excellent colour and flavour.

Be sure to clean off the scum as it rises, both before and after the

sugar is put in, or the preserve will not be clear. Juice of red

currants, three pounds; juice of white currants, one pound: fifteen

minutes. Sugar, two pounds: eight minutes. An excellent jelly may be

made with equal parts of the juice of red and of white currants, and

of raspberries, with the same proportion of sugar and degree of

boiling as mentioned in the foregoing receipt.

[REVENGE IS THE ONLY DEBT WHICH IS WRONG TO PAY.]

2125. White Currant Jelly.

White currant jelly is made in the same way as red currant jelly, only

double refined sugar should be used, and it should not be boiled above

ten minutes. White currant jelly should be put through a lawn sieve.

2126. Another Receipt for White Currant Jelly.

After the fruit is stripped from the stalks, put it into the pan, and

when it boils, run it quickly through a sieve: take a pound of sugar

to each pint of juice, and let it boil twenty minutes.

2127. Black Currant Jelly.

To each pound of picked fruit allow one gill of water; set them on the

fire in the preserving-pan to scald, but do not let them boil; bruise

them well with a silver fork, or wooden beater; take them oft and

squeeze them through a hair sieve, and to every pint of juice allow a

pound of loaf or raw sugar; boil it ten minutes.

2128. Apricot Jelly.

Divide two dozen ripe apricots into halves, pound half of the kernels

in a gill of water, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice; reduce the fruit

to a pulp, and mix the kernels with it; put the whole into a stewpan

with a pound of sugar, boil thoroughly, skim till clear, and put into

small pots.

2129. Ox-heel Jelly.

Ox-heel Jelly is made in the same way as Calves' Feet Jelly (_See

par._ 2132).

2130. Arrowroot Jelly.

A tablespoonful of arrow-root, and cold water to form a paste; add a

pint of boiling water; stir briskly, boil for a few minutes. A little

sherry and sugar may be added. For infants, a drop or two of the

essence of caraway seed or cinnamon is preferable.

2131. An Excellent Jelly.

(_For the Sick room._)--Take rice, sago, pearl-barley, hartshorn

shavings, each one ounce; simmer with three pints of water to one, and

strain it. When cold, it will be a jelly, which give, dissolved in

wine, milk, or broth, in change with the other nourishment.

2132. Calves' Feet Jelly.

It is better to buy the feet of the butcher, than at the tripe-shop

ready boiled, because the best portion of the jelly has been

extracted. Slit them in two, and take every particle of fat from the

claws; wash well in warm water, put them in a large stewpan, and cover

with water; skim well, and let them boil gently for six or seven

hours, until reduced to about two quarts, then strain and skim off any

oily substance on the surface. It is best to boil the feet the day

before making the jelly, as, when the liquor is cold, the oily part

being at the top, and the other being firm, with pieces of blotting

paper applied to it, you may remove every particle of the oily

substance without wasting the liquor. Put the liquor in a stewpan to

melt, with a pound of lump sugar, the peel of two lemons, and the

juice of six, six whites and shells of eggs beat together, and a

bottle of sherry or Madeira; whisk the whole together until it is on

the boil, then put it by the side of the stove, and let it simmer a

quarter of an hour; strain it through a jelly-bag: what is strained

first must be poured into the bag again, until it is as bright and

clear as distilled water; then put the jelly in moulds, to be cold and

firm; if the weather is too warm, it requires some ice or some of

Nelson's gelatine.

If required to be very stiff, half an ounce of isinglass may be added

when the wine is put in. It may be flavoured by the juice of various

fruits and spices, &c., and coloured with saffron, cochineal, the

juice of beetroot, spinach juice, claret, &c. It is sometimes made

with cherry brandy, red noyeau, curaçao, or essence of punch.

2133. Orange Marmalade.

Select the largest Seville oranges, as they usually contain the

greatest quantity of juice, and take those that have clear skins, as

the skins form the largest part of the marmalade. Weigh the oranges,

and weigh also an equal quantity of loaf sugar. Peel the oranges,

dividing the peel of each into quarters, and put them into a

preserving-pan; cover them well with water, and set them on the fire

to boil. In the meantime prepare your oranges; divide them into gores,

then scrape with a teaspoon all the pulp from the white skin; or,

instead of peeling the oranges, cut a hole in the orange and scoop out

the pulp: remove carefully all the pips, of which there are

innumerable small ones in the Seville orange, which will escape

observation unless they are very minutely examined. Have a large basin

near you with some cold water in it, to throw the pips and peels

into--a pint is sufficient for a dozen oranges.

Boil these in the water, and having strained off the glutinous matter

which comes from them, add it to the other parts. When the peels have

boiled till they are sufficiently tender to admit of a fork being

stuck into them, scrape away all the pith from the inside of them; lay

them in folds, and cut them into thin slices of about an inch long.

Clarify the sugar; then throw the peels and pulp into it, stir it

well, and let it boil for half an hour. Then remove it from the fire,

and when it becomes cool, put it by in pots. Marmalade should be made

at the end of March, or at the beginning of April, as Seville oranges

are then in their best state.

2134. Apple Marmalade.

Peel and core two pounds of sub-acid apples--Wellingtons are excellent

for the purpose--and put them in an enamelled saucepan with one pint

of sweet cider, or half a pint of pure wine, and one pound of crushed

sugar. Cook them by a gentle heat three hours, or longer, until the

fruit is very soft, then squeeze it first through a cullender and then

through a sieve. If not sufficiently sweet, add powdered sugar to

taste, and put away in jars made air-tight by covering them with a

piece of wet bladder.

2135. Plum, Green-gage, or Apricot Jam

After taking away the stones from the fruit, and cutting out any

blemishes, put them over a slow fire, in a clean stewpan, with half a

pint of water, and when scalded, rub them through a hair sieve. To

every pound of pulp put one pound of sifted loaf sugar, put it into a

preserving pan over a brisk fire, and when it boils skim it well, and

throw in the kernels of the apricots and half an ounce of bitter

almonds, blanched. Then boil it fast for a quarter of an hour longer,

stirring it all the time. Store away in pots in the usual manner.

2136. Almond Flavour.

(ESSENCE OF PEACH KERNELS--QUINTESSENCE OF NOYEAU.)--Dissolve one

ounce of essential oil of bitter almonds in one pint of spirit of

wine. Use it as flavouring for cordials and pastry. _In large

quantities is exceedingly poisonous_. A few drops only should be used

to several pounds of syrups, pastry, &c. This and other flavourings

may be bought in small bottles, ready for use, of grocers or oilmen.

2137. Syrup of Orange or Lemon Peel.

Of fresh outer rind of Seville orange or lemon-peel, three ounces,

apothecaries' weight; boiling water, a pint and a half; infuse the

peel for a night in a close vessel; then strain the liquor; let it

stand to settle; and having poured it off clear from the sediment,

dissolve in it two pounds of double refined loaf sugar, and make it

into a syrup with a gentle heat.

[PRIDE COSTS MORE THAN HUNGER, THIRST, OR COLD.]

2138. Indian Syrup.

(A delicious summer drink.) Five pounds of lump sugar, two ounces of

citric acid, a gallon of boiling water: when cold add half a drachm of

essence of lemon and half a drachm of spirit of wine; stir it well and

bottle it. About two tablespoonfuls to a glass of cold water.

2139. Apples in Syrup for Immediate Use.

Pare and core some hard round apples, throwing them into a basin of

water as each is peeled. Clarify as much loaf sugar as will cover

them; put the apples in water with the juice and rind of a lemon, and

let them simmer till they are quite clear; great care must be taken

not to break them. Place them on the dish they are to appear upon at

table, and pour the syrup over.

2140. Pounding Almonds.

The almonds should be dried for a few days after being blanched. Set

them in a warm place, strewn singly over a dish or tin. A little

powdered lump sugar will assist the pounding. They may be first

chopped small, and rolled with a rolling pin.--Almond Paste may be

made in the same manner.

2141. Blanched Almonds.

Put the almonds into cold water, and heat them slowly to scalding;

then take them out and peel them quickly, throwing them into cold

water as they are done. Dry them in a cloth before serving.

2142. Freezing without Ice or Acids.

The use of ice in cooling depends upon the fact of its requiring a

vast quantity of heat to convert it from a solid into a liquid state,

or in other words, to melt it; and the heat so required is obtained

from those objects with which it may be in contact. A pound of ice

requires nearly as much heat to melt it as would be sufficient to make

a pound of cold water boiling hot; hence its cooling power is

extremely great. But ice does not begin to melt until the temperature

is above the freezing point, and therefore it cannot be employed in

freezing liquids, &c., but only in cooling them. If, however, any

substance is mixed with ice which is capable of causing it to melt

more rapidly, and at a lower temperature, a still more intense cooling

effect is the result; such a substance is common salt, and the degree

of cold produced by the mixture of one part of salt with two parts of

snow or pounded ice is greater than thirty degrees below freezing.

In making ice-creams and dessert ices, the following articles are

required:--Pewter ice-pots with tightly-fitting lids, furnished with

handles; wooden ice-pails, to hold the rough ice and salt--the pails

should be stoutly made, about the same depth as the ice pots, and nine

or ten inches more in diameter, with a hole in the side, fitted with a

good cork, in order that the water from the melted ice may be drawn

off as required. In addition, a broad spatula, about four inches long,

rounded at the end, and furnished with a long wooden handle, is

necessary to scrape the frozen cream from the sides of the ice-pot,

and for mixing the whole smoothly together. When making ices, place

the mixture of cream and fruit to be frozen in the ice-pot, cover it

with the lid, and put the pot in the ice-pail, which proceed to fill

up with coarsely-pounded ice and salt, in the proportion of about one

part of salt to three of ice; let the whole remain a few minutes (if

covered by a blanket so much the better), then whirl the pot briskly

by the handle for a few minutes, take off the lid, and with the

spatula scrape the iced cream from the sides, mixing the whole

smoothly; put on the lid, and whirl again, repeating all the

operations every few minutes until the whole of the cream is well

frozen.

Great care and considerable labour are required in stirring, so that

the whole cream may be smoothly frozen, and not in hard lumps. When

finished, if it is required to be kept any time, the melted ice and

salt should be allowed to escape, by removing the cork, and the pail

filled up with fresh materials. It is scarcely necessary to add, that

if any of the melted ice and salt is allowed to mix with the cream,

the latter is spoiled. From the difficulty of obtaining ice in places

distant from large towns, and in hot countries, and from the

impracticability of keeping it any length of time, or, in fact, of

keeping small quantities more than a few hours its use is much

limited, and many have been the attempts to obtain an efficient

substitute. For this purpose various salts have been employed, which,

when dissolved in water, or in acids, absorb a sufficient amount of

heat to freeze substances with which they may be placed in contact. We

shall not attempt, in this article, to describe all the various

freezing mixtures that have been devised, but speak only of those

which have been found practically useful.

Many of the freezing mixtures which are to be found described in books

are incorrectly so named, for although they themselves are below the

freezing point, yet they are not sufficiently powerful to freeze any

quantity of water, or other substances, when placed in a vessel within

them. In order to be efficient as a freezing mixture, as distinguished

from a cooling one, the materials used ought to be capable of

producing by themselves an amount of cold more than thirty degrees

below the freezing point of water, and this the ordinary mixtures will

not do. Much more efficient and really freezing mixtures may be made

by using acids to dissolve the salts. The cheapest, and perhaps the

best, of these for ordinary use, is one which is frequently employed

in France, both for making dessert ices, and cooling wines, &c. It

consists of coarsely powdered Glauber salt (sulphate of sodium), on

which is poured about two-thirds its weight of spirit of salts

(hydrochloric acid).

The mixture should be made in a wooden vessel, as that is preferable

to one made of metal, which conducts the external heat to the

materials with great rapidity; and when the substance to be cooled is

placed in the mixture, the whole should be covered with a blanket, a

piece of old woollen carpet doubled or some other non-conducting

material, to prevent the access of the external warmth; the vessel

used for icing wines should not be too large, that there may be no

waste of the freezing mixture. This combination produces a degree of

cold thirty degrees below freezing; and if the materials are bought of

any of the wholesale druggists or dry salters, it is exceedingly

economical. It is open, however, to the very great objection, that the

spirit of salt is an exceedingly corrosive liquid, and of a pungent,

disagreeable odour: this almost precludes its use for any purpose

except that of icing wines.

[FAIR AND SOFTLY GO SURE AND FAR.]

2143. Further Directions.

Actual quanties--one pound of chloride of ammonium, or sal ammoniac,

finely powdered, is to be _intimately_ mixed with two pounds of

nitrate of potasium or saltpetre, also in powder; this mixture we may

call No. 1. No. 2 is formed by crushing three pounds of the best

Scotch soda. In use, an equal bulk of both No. 1 and No. 2 is to be

taken, stirred together, placed in the ice-pail, surrounding the

ice-pot, and rather less cold water poured on than will dissolve the

whole; if one quart of No. 1, and the same bulk of No. 2 are taken, it

will require about one quart of water to dissolve them, and the

temperature will fall, if the materials used are cool, to nearly

thirty degrees below freezing. Those who fail, may trace their want of

success to one or other of the following points:--the use of too small

a quantity of the preparation,--the employment of a few ounces;

whereas, in freezing ices, the ice-pot must be entirely surrounded

with the freezing material: no one would attempt to freeze with four

ounces of ice and salt. Again, too large a quantity of water may be

used to dissolve the preparation, when all the excess of water has to

be cooled down instead of the substance it is wished to freeze. All

the materials used should be pure, and as cool as can be obtained. The

ice-pail in which the mixture is made must be of some non-conducting

material, as wood--which will prevent the access of warmth from the

air; and the ice-pot, in which the liquor to be frozen is placed,

should be of pewter, and surrounded nearly to its top by the freezing

mixture. Bear in mind that the making of ice-cream, under any

circumstances, is an operation requiring considerable dexterity and

practice.

2144. To Make Dessert Ices, both Cream and Water.

2145. Strawberry Ice Cream.

Take one pint of strawberries, one pint of cream, nearly half a pound

of powdered white sugar, the juice of a lemon; mash the fruit through

a sieve, and take out the seeds: mix with the other articles, and

freeze. A little new milk added makes the whole freeze more quickly.

2146. Raspberry Ice Cream.

The same as strawberry. These ices are often coloured by cochineal,

but the addition is not advantageous to the flavour. Strawberry or

raspberry jam may be used instead of the fresh fruit, or equal

quantities of jam and fruit employed. Of course the quantity of sugar

must be proportionately diminished.

2147. Strawberry Water Ice.

One large pottle of scarlet strawberries, the juice of a lemon, a

pound of sugar, or one pint of strong syrup, half a pint of water.

Mix,--first rubbing the fruit through a sieve,--and freeze.

2148. Raspberry Water Ice.

Raspberry Water Ice is made in precisely the same manner as

Strawberry-water ice.

2149. Lemon-Water Ice.

Lemon juice and water, each half a pint; strong syrup, one pint: the

rind of the lemons should be rasped off, before squeezing, with lump

sugar, which is to be added to the juice; mix the whole; strain after

standing an hour, and freeze. Beat up with a little sugar the whites

of two or three eggs, and as the ice is beginning to set, work this in

with the spatula, which will be found to much improve the consistence

and taste.

2150. Orange-Water Ice.

Orange-Water Ice is made in the same way as Lemon-water ice.

2151. Nitrate of Ammonium as a Freezing Mixture.

Another substance, which is free from any corrosive action or

unpleasant odour, is nitrate of ammonium, which, if simply dissolved

in rather less than its own weight of water, reduces the temperature

about twenty-five degrees below freezing. The objections to its use

are that its frigorific power is not sufficiently great to freeze

readily; and if it be required to form dessert ices, it is requisite

to renew the process, at the expiration of a quarter of an hour, a

second time, and, if the weather is very hot, and the water used is

rather warm, even a third or fourth time. Again, nitrate of ammonium

is a very expensive salt; even in France, where it is manufactured

expressly for this purpose, it is sold at the rate of three francs a

pound; and in England it cannot be obtained under a much higher price.

One great recommendation, however, attends its use, namely, that it

may be recovered again, and used any number of times, by simply

boiling away the water in which it is dissolved, by a gentle fire,

until a small portion, on being removed, crystallizes on cooling.

2152. Washing Soda as a Freezing Mixture.

If, however, nitrate of ammonium in coarse powder is put into the

cooler, and there is then added twice its weight of freshly crushed

washing soda, and an equal quantity of the coldest water that can be

obtained, an intensely powerful frigorific mixture is the result, the

cold often falling to forty degrees below freezing. This is by far

the most efficacious freezing mixture that can be made without the use

of ice or acids. But, unfortunately, it has an almost insuperable

objection, that the nitrate of ammonium is decomposed by the soda, and

cannot be recovered by evaporation; this raises the expense to so

great a height, that the plan is practically useless.

[ALL IS NOT GOLD THAT GLITTERS.]

2153. Sal Ammoniac as a Freezing Mixture.

If the ordinary sal ammoniac of the shops is used, it will be found

both difficult to powder, and expensive; in fact, it is so exceedingly

tough, that the only way in which it can be easily divided, except in

a drug mill, is by putting as large a quantity of the salt into water

which is actually boiling as the latter will dissolve; as the solution

cools, the salt crystalizes out in the solid form, and if stirred as

it cools, it separates in a state of fine division. As this process is

troublesome, and as the sal ammoniac is expensive, it is better to use

the crude muriate of ammonium, which is the same substance as sal

ammoniac, but before it has been purified by sublimation. This is not

usually kept by druggists, but may be readily obtained of any of the

artificial manure merchants, at a very moderate rate; and its purity

may be readily tested by placing a portion of it on a red-hot iron,

when it should fly off in a vapour, leaving scarcely any residue.

2154. Coldness of the Materials used.

It is hardly necessary to add, that in icing wines, or freezing, the

effect is great in proportion to the coldness of the materials used;

therefore, every article employed, viz., the water, tubs, mixtures,

&c., should be as cool as possible.

2155. Blackbirds.

The cock bird is of a deep black, with a yellow bill. The female is

dark brown. It is difficult to distinguish male from female birds when

young; but the darkest generally are males. Their food consists of

German paste, bread, meat, and bits of apple. The same treatment as

given for the thrush (_See par._ 2456) applies to the blackbird.

2156. Food of Blackbirds.

The natural food of the blackbird is berries, worms, insects, shelled

snails, cherries, and other similar fruit; and its artificial food,

lean fresh meat, cut very small, and mixed with bread, or German paste.

2157. Thrushes.

A cock may be distinguished from a hen by a darker back, and the more

glossy appearance of the feathers. The belly also is white. Their

natural food is insects, worms, and snails. In a domesticated state

they will eat raw meat, but snails and worms should be procured for

them. Young birds are hatched about the middle of April, and should be

kept very warm. They should be fed with raw meat, cut small, or bread

mixed in milk with hemp seed well bruised; when they can feed

themselves give them lean meat cut small, and mixed with bread or

German paste, plenty of clean water, and keep them in a warm, dry, and

sunny situation.

2158. Canaries.

To distinguish a cock bird from a hen, observe the bird when it is

singing, and if it be a cock you will perceive the throat heaving with

a pulse-like motion, a peculiarity which is scarcely perceptible in

the hen. Feed young canaries with white and yolk of hard egg, mixed

together with a little bread steeped in water. This should be pressed

and placed in one vessel, while in another should be put some boiled

rape seed, washed in fresh water. Change the food every day. When they

are a month old, put them into separate cages. Cut the claws of

cage-birds occasionally, when they become too long, but in doing so be

careful not to draw blood.

2159. Treatment of Canaries.

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