right to play before his partner; or if the fourth hand play before
the second or third, the cards so played must stand, and the second
be compelled to win the trick if he can.
ix. If a player lead out of his turn, or otherwise expose a card,
that card may be _called_, if the playing of it does not cause a
revoke.
[Calling a card is the insisting of its being played when the suit
comes round, or when it may be played.]
x. If a player trump by mistake, he may recall his card, and play to
the suit, if the card be not covered; but he may be compelled to
play the highest or lowest of the suit led, and to play the exposed
trump when it is called by his adversaries.
xi. If, before a trick be turned, a player discover that he has not
followed suit, he may recall his card; but the card played in error
can be called when the suit is played.
xii. Before a trick is turned, the player who made it may see the
preceding trick.
[Only _one_ trick is to be shown; not more, as is sometimes
erroneously believed.]
xiii. Before he plays, a player may require his partner to "draw his
card," or he may have each card in the trick claimed before the
trick be turned.
xiv. When a player does not follow suit his partner is allowed to
ask him whether he has any card of the suit led.
xv. The penalty for a revoke--either by wrongfully trumping the suit
led, or by playing a card of another suit--is the loss of three
tricks; but no revoke can be claimed till the cards are abandoned,
and the trick turned.
[Revokes forfeit three tricks from the hand or score: or opponents
may add three to their score; partner may ask and correct a trick if
not turned; the revoking side cannot score out in that deal.]
xvi. No revoke can be claimed after the tricks are gathered up, or
after the cards are cut for the next deal.
[The wilful mixing up of the cards in such case loses the game.]
xvii. The proof of a revoke lies with the claimants, who may examine
each trick on the completion of the round.
xviii. If a revoke occur on both sides, there must be a new deal.
xix. Honours cannot be counted unless they are claimed previous to
the next deal.
[No omission to score honours can be rectified after the cards are
packed; but an overscore, if proved, must be deducted.]
xx. Honours can only be called at eight points (in Long Whist), and
at nine they do not count.
[In some Clubs, eight, with the deal, cannot call against nine.]
77. Short Whist
is the above game cut in half. Honours are not _called_ at any part of
the game; but, as in Long Whist, they are counted by their holders and
scored--except at the score of four. All the maxims and Rules
belonging to the parent game apply to Short Whist.
78. Points at Short Whist.
The Game consists of Five Points. One for a Single--5 to 3 or 4; Two
for a Double--5 to 1 or 2; Three for a Triple--5 to love. A
Rubber--two Games successively won, or the two best Games out of
three--counts for Two Points. Thus, if the first Game be won by 5 to
4, the Points are 1 to love; the second Game won by the opposite side
by 5 to 1, the Points are then 1 to 2; the third Game won by the side
which won the first, by 5 to love. The Points are then 6 to 2--a
balance of 4. This is arrived at thus: the Single in the first Game,
1; the Triple in the third Game, 3; the Rubber (two Games of three),
2; together, 6. From this deduct 2, for the Double gained by the
opponents in the second Game, which leaves 4, as above. Short Whist is
usually played for points--say, a shilling, or a penny, for each
point; two for the Game, and two for the Rubber.
[NONE ARE SO GOOD AS THEY SHOULD BE.]
79. Advice to all Players.
i. Count, and arrange your cards into suits; but do not always place
your trumps in one particular part of your hand, or your opponents
will discover how many you have.
ii. Attend to the game, and play as though your hand consisted of
twenty-six instead of thirteen cards.
iii. In the second round of a suit, win the trick when you can, and
lead out for your partner's high cards as soon as possible.
iv. Touch only the card you intend to play.
v. Retain a high trump as long as you can, to bring back your strong
suit.
vi. With a weak hand, always try to secure the seventh or odd trick
to save the game.
vii. Attend to the score, and play as if the whole fortune of the
game depended on yourself.
viii. Remember the number of trumps out at every stage of the game.
Note, also, the fall of every court-card in the other suits, so that
you are never in doubt as to the card that will win the trick.
ix. Hold the turn-up as long as you can, as by that means you keep
your adversaries from knowing your strength in trumps.
x. Do not force your partner unnecessarily, as by that means you
sometimes become his adversary instead of his friend.
xi. When in doubt, play a trump. Play the game in its integrity, and
recollect that Whist is full of inferences as well as facts.
80. Cribbage.
The game of Cribbage differs from all other games by its immense
variety of chances. It is played with the full pack of cards, often by
four persons, but it is a better game for two. There are also
different modes of playing--with five, six, or eight cards; but the
best games use those with five or six cards.
[NIGHT IS NOT DARK TO THE GOOD.]
81. Terms Used in Cribbage.
i. _Crib._--The crib is composed of the cards thrown out by each
player, and the dealer is entitled to score whatever points are made
by them.
ii. _Pairs_ are two similar cards, as two aces or two kings. Whether
in hand or play they reckon for two points.
iii. _Pairs-Royal_ are three similar cards, and reckon for six
points, whether in hand or play.
iv. _Double Pairs-Royal_ are four similar cards and reckon for
twelve points, whether in hand or play. The points gained by pairs,
pairs-royal, and double pairs-royal, in playing, are thus
effected:--Your adversary having played a seven and you another,
constitutes a pair, and entitles you to score two points; your
antagonist then playing a third seven, makes a pair-royal, and he
marks six; and your playing a fourth is a double pair-royal, and
entitles you to twelve points.
v. _Fifteens_.--Every fifteen reckons for two points, whether in
hand or play. In hand they are formed either by two cards--as a five
and any tenth card, a six and a nine, a seven and an eight, or by
three cards, as a two, a five, and an eight, two sixes and a three.
If in play, such cards as together make fifteen are played, the
player whose card completes that number, scores two points.
vi. _Sequences_ are three or four more successive cards, and reckon
for an equal number of points, either in hand or play. In playing a
sequence, it is of no consequence which card is thrown down first;
as thus:--your adversary playing an ace, you a five, he a three, you
a two, then he a four--he counts five for the sequence.
vii. _Flush_.--When, the cards are all of one suit, they reckon for
as many points as there are cards. For a flush in the crib, the
turned-up card must be of the same suit as those put out.
viii. _Nob_.--The knave of the suit turned up reckons for one point;
if a knave be turned up, the dealer marks two.
ix. _End Hole_.--The point scored by the last player, if he make
under thirty-one; if he make thirty-one exactly, he marks two.
x. _Last_.--Three points taken at the commencement of the game of
five-card cribbage by the non-dealer.
[NOR IS DAY BRIGHT TO THE WICKED.]
82. The Accepted Laws of Cribbage.
i. The players cut for deal. The ace is lowest in cutting. In case
of a tie, they cut again. The holder of the lowest card deals.
ii. Not fewer than four cards is a cut; nor must the non-dealer
touch the pack after he has cut it.
iii. Too many or too few cards dealt constitutes a misdeal, the
penalty for which is the taking of two points by the non-dealer.
iv. A faced card, or a card exposed during the act of dealing
necessitates a new deal, without penalty.
v. The dealer shuffles the cards and the non-dealer cuts them for
the "start."
vi. If the non-dealer touch the cards (except to cut them for the
turn-up) after they have been cut for the start, he forfeits two
points.
vii. In cutting for the start, not fewer than three cards must be
lifted from the pack or left on the table.
viii. The non-dealer throws out for the crib before the dealer. A
card once laid out cannot be recalled, nor must either party touch
the crib till the hand is played out. Either player confusing the
crib cards with his hand, is liable to a penalty of three points.
[In three and four-hand cribbage the left-hand player throws out
first for the crib, then the next; the dealer last. The usual and
best way is for the non-dealer to throw his crib over to the
dealer's side of the board; on these two cards the dealer places his
own, and hands the pack over to be cut. The pack is then at the
right side of the board for the next deal.]
ix. The player who takes more points than those to which he is
entitled, either in play or in reckoning hand or crib, is liable to
be "pegged;" that is, to be put back as many points as he has
over-scored, and have the points added to his opponent's side.
[In pegging you must not remove your opponent's _front_ peg
till you have given him another. In order "to take him down,'' you
remove _your own back peg_ and place it _where his front peg
ought to be_, you then take his _wrongly placed peg_ and put
it in _front of your own front_, as many holes as he has
forfeited by wrongly scoring.]
x. No penalty attaches to the taking of too few points in play,
hand, or crib.
xi. When a player has once taken his hand or crib, he cannot amend
his score.
xii. When a knave is turned up, "two for his heels" must be scored
before the dealer's own card be played, or they cannot be taken.
xiii. A player cannot demand the assistance of his adversary in
reckoning hand and crib.
xiv. A player may not, except to "peg him," touch his adversary's
pegs, under a penalty of two points. If the foremost peg has been
displaced by accident, it must be placed in the hole behind the peg
standing on the board.
xv. The peg once holed cannot be removed by either player till
another point or points be gained.
xvi. The player who scores a game as won when, in fact, it is not
won, loses it.
xvii. A _lurch_--scoring the whole sixty-one before your adversary
has scored thirty-one--is equivalent to a double game, if agreed to
previous to the commencement of the game.
xviii. A card that may be legally played cannot be withdrawn after
it has been once thrown face upwards on the table.
xix. If a player neglect to score his hand, crib, or any point or
points of the game, he cannot score them after the cards are packed
or the next card played.
xx. The player who throws up his cards and refuses to score,
forfeits the game.
xxi. If a player neglect to play when he can play a card within the
prescribed thirty-one, he forfeits two holes.
xxii. Each player's hand and crib must be plainly thrown down on the
table and not mixed with the pack, under penalty of the forfeiture
of the game.
The player who refuses to abide by the rules, loses the game.
Bystanders must not interfere unless requested to decide any
disputed point.
83. Five-Card Cribbage.
In this the sixty-one points or holes on the cribbage-board mark the
game. The player cutting the lowest card deals; after which, each
player lays out two of the five cards for the crib, which belongs to
the dealer. The adversary cuts the remainder of the pack, and the
dealer turns up and lays upon the crib the uppermost card, the
turn-up. If it be a knave, he marks two points. The card turned up is
reckoned by both in counting their hands or crib. After laying out,
the eldest hand plays a card, which the other should endeavour to
pair, or find one, the pips of which, reckoned with the first, will
make fifteen; then the non-dealer plays another card, and so on
alternately, until the pips on the cards played make thirty-one, or
the nearest possible number under that.
84. Counting for Game in Cribbage.
When he whose turn it is to play cannot produce a card that makes
thirty-one, or comes under that number, he says, "Go," and his
antagonist scores one, or plays any card or cards he may have that
will make thirty-one, or under. If he can make exactly thirty-one, he
takes two points; if not, one. Such cards as remain after this are not
played, but each player then counts and scores his hand, the
non-dealer first. The dealer then marks the points for his hand, and
also for his crib, each reckoning the cards every way they can
possibly be varied, and always including the turned-up card.
Points.
For every fifteen 2
Pair, or two of a sort 2
Pair-royal, or three of a sort 6
Double pair-royal, or four ditto 12
Knave of the turned-up suit 1
Sequences and flushes, whatever their number.
85. Examples of Hands in Cribbage.
Two sevens, two eights, and a nine count 24
Two eights, a seven, and two nines " 20
Two nines, a six, seven, and eight " 16
Two sixes, two fives, and a four " 24
Two sixes, two fours, and a five " 24
Two fives, two fours, and a six " 24
Two threes, two twos, and an ace " 16
Two aces, two twos, and a three " 16
Three fives and a tenth card " 14
Three fours and a seven " 12
Three twos and a nine " 8
Six, seven, eight, and two aces the ragged 13
6 + 1 and 8 = 15-2;
6 + 1 and 8 = 16-4;
6 + 1 + 1 + 7 = 15-6;
7 + 8 = 15-8,
the pair of aces and the sequence 5 = 13.
Three sixes and a nine count 12
Three sevens and an eight " 12
Three eights and a seven " 12
Three nines and a six " 12
Three threes and a nine " 12
Three sixes and a three " 12
Three sevens and an ace " 12
Two tens (pair) and two fives " 12
Two tenth cards (not a pair) and two fives = 10
Two nines and two sixes " 12
Two eights and two sevens " 12
Two sixes and two threes " 8
Two fives, a four, and a six " 12
Two fours, a five, and a six " 12
Two sixes, a four, and a five " 12
Two threes and two nines " 8
Two nines, a seven, and an eight " 10
Two eights, a seven, and a nine " 12
Two sevens, an eight, and a nine " 12
Two sixes, a seven, and an eight " 10
Two sixes, a three, and a nine " 8
A seven, eight, nine, ten, and knave " 7
A six, seven, eight, nine, and ten " 9
A six, seven, eight, and nine " 8
A six, five, and two sevens " 8
Any double sequence of three cards
and a pair (as knave, queen, and
two kings). " 6
Any sequence of three cards and a fifteen " 5
Any sequence of four cards and a
fifteen (as seven, eight, nine and ten) counts 6
Any sequence of six cards " 6
Any sequence of four cards and a flush " 8
Any flush of four cards and a fifteen " 6
Any flush of four cards and a pair " 6
The highest number that can be counted from five cards is 29--made
from four fives and a knave; that is, three fives and a knave of the
suit turned up, and a five on the pack--for the combinations of the
four fives, 16; for the double pair-royal, 12; his nob, 1-29.
[RUSTLE IS NOT INDUSTRY.]
86. Maxims for laying out the Crib Cards.
In laying out cards for the crib, the player should consider not only
his own hand, but also to whom the crib belongs, as well as the state
of the game; for what might be right in one situation would be wrong
in another. Possessing a pair-royal, it is generally advisable to lay
out the other cards for crib, unless it belongs to the adversary.
Avoid giving him two fives, a deuce and a trois, five and six, seven
and eight, five and any other tenth card. When he does not thereby
materially injure his hand, the player should for his own crib lay out
close cards, in hope of making a sequence; or two of a suit, in
expectation of a flush; or cards that of themselves reckoned with
others will count fifteen. When the antagonist be nearly up, and it
may be expedient to keep such cards as may prevent him from gaining at
play. The rule is to baulk your adversary's crib by laying out cards
not likely to prove of advantage to him, and to lay out favourably for
your own crib. This applies to a stage of the game when it may be of
consequence to keep in hand cards likely to tell in play, or when the
non-dealer would be either out by his hand, or has reason for thinking
the crib of little moment. A king and a nine is the best baulk, as
none can form a sequence beyond it; king or queen, with an ace, six,
seven, eight, or nine, are good ones to put out. Low cards are
generally the most likely to gain at play; the flushes and sequences,
particularly if the latter be aiso flushes, are eligible hands, as
thereby the player will often be enabled either to assist his own
crib, or baulk that of the opponent; a knave should never be put out
for his crib, if it can be retained in hand.
87. Three or Four-Hand Cribbage
differs little from the preceding. They put out but one card each to
the crib, and when thirty-one, or the nearest to that has been made,
the next eldest hand leads, and the players go on again in rotation,
with the remaining cards, till all are played out, before they proceed
to show hands and crib. For three-handed cribbage triangular boards
are used.
88. Three-Hand Cribbage
is sometimes played, wherein one person sits out, not each game, but
each deal in rotation. In this the first dealer generally wins.
89. Six-Card Cribbage.
The two players commence on an equality, without scoring any points
for the last, retain four cards in hand, and throw out two for crib.
At this game it is of advantage to the last player to keep as close as
possible, in hope of coming in for fifteen, a sequence, or pair,
besides the end hole, or thirty-one. The first dealer is thought to
have some trifling advantage, and each player may, on the average,
expect to make twenty-five points in every two deals. The first
non-dealer is considered to have the preference, when he gains ten or
more the first hand, the dealer not making more than his average
number.
90. Eight-Card Cribbage
is sometimes played. Six are retained in hand, and the game is
conducted on the same plan as before.
91. All Fours
is usually played by two persons; not unfrequently by four. Its name
is derived from the four chances, called _high, low, Jack, game_, each
making a point. It is played with a complete pack of cards, six of
which are to be dealt to each player, three at a time; and the next
card, the thirteenth, is turned up for the trump by the dealer, who,
if it prove a knave, scores one point. The highest card cut deals
first. The cards rank the same as at whist--the first to score ten
points, wins.
92. Laws of All-Fours.
i. A new deal can be demanded for an exposed card, too few or too
many cards dealt; in the latter case, a new deal is optional,
provided it be done before a card has been played, but not after, to
draw from the opposing hand the extra card.
ii. No person can beg more than once in each hand, except by mutual
agreement.
iii. Each player must trump or follow suit on penalty of the
adversary scoring one point.
iv. If either player score wrongly it must be taken down, and the
adversary either scores four points or one, as may have previously
been agreed.
v. When a trump is played, it is allowable to ask your adversary if
it be either high or low.
vi. One card may count all-fours; for example, the eldest hand holds
the knave and stands his game, the dealer has neither trump, ten,
ace, nor court-card; it will follow that the knave will be both
high, low, Jack, and game, as explained by--
93. Terms used in All-Fours.
i. _High_.--For the highest trump out, the holder scores one point.
ii. _Low_.--For the lowest trump out, the original holder scores one
point, even if it be taken by the adversary.
iii. _Jack_.--For the knave of trumps the holder scores one. If it
be won by the adversary, the winner scores the point.
iv. _Game_.--The greatest number that, in the tricks gained, are
shown by either player, reckoning:
_Four_ for an ace.
_Three_ for a king.
_Two_ for a queen.
_One_ for a knave.
_Ten_ for a ten.
The other cards do not count: thus it may happen that a deal may
be played without having any to reckon for game.
v. _Begging_ is when the eldest hand, disliking his cards, uses his
privilege, and says, "_I beg_;" in which case the dealer either
suffers his adversary to score one point, saying, "_Take one_," or
gives each player three cards more from the pack, and then turns up
the next card, the seventh for trumps. If, however, the trump turned
up to be of the same suit as the first, the dealer must go on,
giving each three cards more, and turning up the seventh, until a
change of suit for trumps shall take place.
94. Maxims for All-Fours.
i. Make your knave as soon as you can.
ii. Secure your tens by playing any small cards, by which you may
throw the lead into you adversary's hand.
iii. Win your adversary's best cards when you can, either by
trumping or with superior cards.
iv. If, being eldest hand, you hold either ace, king, or queen of
trumps, without the knave or ten, play them immediately, as, by this
means, you may chance to win the knave or ten.
95. Loo.
This game is played both Limited and Unlimited Loo; it is played two
ways, both with five and three cards. Several may play, but five or
seven make the better game.
96. Three-Card Loo.
i. This game is played by any number of persons, from three, but
five or seven make the best game.
ii. The cards are cut for deal, the holder of the lowest card being
dealer; after which the deal goes round, from left to right. In case
of a tie, the players cut again. Ace is lowest, and the court-cards
and tens are reckoned of the same value,--namely, ten.
iii. The left-hand adversary shuffles or makes the pack, and the
player to the right of the dealer cuts previous to the deal.
iv. The cards take their usual value, ace highest; then king, queen,
knave, ten, and so on, down to deuce. The dealer then gives three
cards, one at a time, face downwards, to each player; and also
dealing an extra hand, or "miss," which may be thrown on the table
either as the first or last card of each round.
v. A card too many or too few is a misdeal.
vi. The stakes being settled beforehand, the dealer puts into the
pool his three halfpence, pence, or sixpences, and the game
proceeds:
vii. The first player on the left of the dealer looks at his hand,
and declares whether he will play or take the miss. If he decide to
play, he says, "I play," or "I take the miss;" but he may elect to
do neither; in which case he places his cards on the pack, and has
nothing further to do with that round. The next player looks at his
hand, and says whether he will play or not; and so on, till the turn
comes to the dealer, who, if only one player stand the chance of the
loo, may either play or give up the stakes.
viii. In the first round it is usual either to deal a _single_; that
is, a round without a _miss_, when all the players must play; or
each player puts into the pool a sum equal to that staked by the
dealer in which latter case a miss is dealt.
[NEVER OPEN THE DOOR TO A LITTLE VICE.]
97. Laws of Loo.
i. For a misdeal the dealer is looed.
ii. For playing out of turn or looking at the miss without taking
it, the player is looed.
iii. If the first player possess two or three trumps, he must play
the highest, or be looed.
iv. With ace of trumps only, the first player must lead it, or be
looed.
v. The player who looks at his own cards, or the miss out of his
turn, is looed.
vi. The player who looks at his neighbour's hand, either during the
play or when they lie on the table, is looed.
vii. The player who informs another what cards he possesses, or
gives any intimation that he knows such or such cards to be in the
hand or the miss, is looed.
viii. The player who throws up his cards after the leading card is
played, is looed.
ix. Each player who follows the elder hand must head the trick if he
can, or be looed.
x. Each player must follow suit if he can, or be looed.
The player who is looed pays into the pool the sum agreed.
98. Mode of Play.
i. When it is seen how many players stand in the round, the elder
hand plays a card--his highest trump if he has two or more; if not,
any card he chooses. The next plays, and, if he can, follows suit or
heads the trick with a trump. If he can do neither, he throws away
any card.
ii. And so the round goes on; the highest card of the suit, or the
highest trump, winning the trick. The winner of the trick then leads
another card.
iii. The game consists of three tricks, and the pool is divided
equally among the players possessing them. Thus, if there be three
pence, shillings, or half-crowns, in the pool, the tricks are a
penny, sixpence, or half-a-crown each. The three tricks may of
course be won by a single player, or they may be divided between two
or three. Each player who fails to win a trick is looed, and pays
into the next pool the amount determined on as the loo.