ENQUIRE WITHIN
UPON
EVERYTHING.
"WHETHER YOU WISH TO MODEL A FLOWER IN WAX; TO STUDY THE RULES OF
ETIQUETTE; TO SERVE A RELISH FOR BREAKFAST OR SUPPER; TO PLAN A DINNER
FOR A LARGE PARTY OR A SMALL ONE; TO CURE A HEADACHE; TO MAKE A WILL; TO
GET MARRIED; TO BURY A RELATIVE; WHATEVER YOU MAY WISH TO DO, MAKE, OR
TO ENJOY, PROVIDED YOUR DESIRE HAS RELATION TO THE NECESSITIES OF
DOMESTIC LIFE, I HOPE YOU WILL NOT FAIL TO 'ENQUIRE
WITHIN.'"--Editor.
ENQUIRERS ARE REFERRED TO THE INDEX AT THE END.
EIGHTY-NINTH EDITION. REVISED.
MAKING THE TOTAL ISSUE TO DATE
ONE MILLION ONE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY-EIGHT
THOUSAND COPIES.
LONDON:
HOULSTON AND SONS,
PATERNOSTER SQUARE.
1894.
* * * * *
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* * * * *
EDITOR'S PREFACE.
If there be any among my Readers who, having turned over the pages of
"ENQUIRE WITHIN," have hastily pronounced them to be confused and
ill-arranged, let them at once refer to THE INDEX, at page 389*, and for
ever hold their peace.
The INDEX is, to the vast congregation of useful hints and receipts that
fill the pages of this volume, what the DIRECTORY is to the great
aggregation of houses and people in London.
No one, being a stranger to London, would run about asking for "MR.
SMITH." But, remembering the Christian name and the profession of the
individual wanted, he would turn to the DIRECTORY, and trace him out.
Like a house, every paragraph in "ENQUIRE WITHIN" has its number,--and
the INDEX is the DIRECTORY which will explain what Facts, Hints, and
Instructions _inhabit_ that number.
For, if it be not a misnomer, we are prompted to say that "ENQUIRE
WITHIN" is _peopled_ with hundreds of ladies and gentlemen, who have
approved of the plan of the work, and contributed something to its store
of useful information. There they are, waiting to be questioned, and
ready to reply. Within each page some one lives to answer for the
correctness of the information imparted, just as certainly as where, in
the window of a dwelling, you see a paper directing you to "ENQUIRE
WITHIN," some one is there to answer you.
HOUSEKEEPERS of experience live at Nos. 1, 30, 438, 1251 and 2091; old
Dr. KITCHINER lives at 44; CAPTAIN CRAWLEY is to be found at 46 and
2568; the well-known Mrs. WARREN lives at 1809; Miss ACTON at 1310; Dr.
FRANKLIN at 1398; Mrs. HITCHING at 215; Mr. BANTING at 1768; Dr. WILSON
PHILIP at 1762; Mr. WITHERING at 2338; Mr. MECHI at 997; Dr. STENHOUSE
at 1776; Dr. ERASMUS WILSON at 1700; Dr. SOUTHWOOD SMITH at 1743; Dr.
BLAIR at 2180; M. SOYER at 1130; Dr. BABINGTON at 2407; Miss GIFFORD at
2337; and Dr. CLARK at 2384. In addition to these and many more, a
DOCTOR lives at 475; a GARDENER at 249; a SCHOOLMASTER at 161; a BUTCHER
at 27; a DANCING-MASTER at 139; an ARTIST at 2548; a NATURALIST at 2330;
a DYER at 2682; a MODELLER at 2346; a PROFESSED COOK at 1032; a
PHILANTHROPIST at 1368; a LAWYER at 1440; a SURGEON at 796; a CHESS
PLAYER at 71; a WHIST PLAYER, almost next door, at 73; a CHEMIST at 650;
a BREWER at 2267; a LAWN TENNIS PLAYER at 2765; a HOMOEOPATHIC
PRACTITIONER at 925; a WOOD-STAINER at 1413; two CONFECTIONERS at 1628
and 2024; a POULTRY-KEEPER at 1642; a METEOROLOGIST at 962; PHILOSOPHERS
at 973 and 1783; a PRACTICAL ECONOMIST at 985; a BAKER at 1002; a MASTER
OF THE CEREMONIES at 1924 and 2613; a BIRD FANCIER at 2155: a
WASHERWOMAN at 2729; an ANALYTICAL CHEMIST at 2747; an ACCOUNTANT at
2769; and so on.
Well! there they live--always at home. Knock at their doors--ENQUIRE
WITHIN. NO FEES TO PAY!!
Much care has been taken in selecting the information that is given,
and, as is amply shown by the above list, so many kind and competent
friends have lent a hand in the production of this volume that is
impossible to turn to any page without at once being reminded of the
GENEROUS FRIEND who abides there.
To some extent, though in a far less degree, assistance has been
rendered by the authors of many useful and popular works, for which due
acknowledgment must be made. Chief among these works are Dr. Kitchiner's
"COOKS' ORACLE"; "THE COOK," in _Houlston and Sons' Industrial
Library_; "THE SHOPKEEPER'S GUIDE;" "THE WIFE'S OWN COOKERY," "THE
PRACTICAL HOUSEWIFE," and many of the volumes of the "REASON WHY"
series.
Lastly, as in everyday life it is found necessary at times to make a
thorough inspection of house and home, and to carry out requisite
repairs, alterations, and additions, this has been done in the recent
editions of "ENQUIRE WITHIN," to which some hundreds of paragraphs have
been added, while others have been remodelled and revised in accordance
with the progress of the times in which we live. Care, however, has been
taken to alter nothing that needed no alteration, so that, practically,
this Popular Favourite is still the _old_ "ENQUIRE WITHIN;"
improved, it is true, but in no way so changed as to place it beyond the
recognition of those to whom it has been a BOOK OF CONSTANT REFERENCE
since its first appearance.
* * * * *
PUBLISHER'S PREFACE
TO THE SEVENTY-FIFTH EDITION.
The unparalleled success achieved by "ENQUIRE WITHIN UPON EVERYTHING"
demands special mention from its Publishers at the present moment. Its
prominent characteristics--varied usefulness and cheapness--have won for
it universal esteem. There is scarcely a spot reached by English
civilization to which this book has not found its way, receiving
everywhere the most cordial welcome and winning the warmest praise.
Proof of this world-wide popularity is clearly shown by the record of
the number of copies sold, now amounting to the wonderful total of
ONE MILLION COPIES
--a sale which the Publishers believe to be _absolutely without
precedent_ among similar books of reference. This result has been mainly
brought about by the kindly interest shown in the book by many friends,
to whom the Publishers' most hearty thanks are tendered for their
generous support and recommendations.
The work of revision has been carried on from year to year with
watchfulness and care, and many Additions have been made, both modern
and interesting, including Homoeopathy, Lawn Tennis, &c. Enquirers on
the laws of Landlord and Tenant, Husband and Wife, Debtor and Creditor,
are supplied with the latest information. Diseases and their Remedies,
and Medicines, their Uses and Doses, have received special attention.
The Index has been considerably extended, and with the aid of this, and
the Summary of Contents, it is hoped that no Enquirer will fail to
receive complete and satisfactory replies.
* * * * *
THE "ENQUIRE WITHIN" AND "REASON WHY" SERIES now comprises Twenty-seven
Volumes, containing upwards of SEVEN THOUSAND pages of closely printed
matter. They are entirely original in plan, and executed with the most
conscientious care. The Indexes have been prepared with great labour,
and alone occupy about 500 pages. A vast Fund of valuable Information,
embracing every Subject of Interest or Utility, is thus attainable, and
at a merely nominal Cost.
These Works are in such general demand, that the Sale has already
reached considerably upwards of
ONE-AND-A-HALF MILLION VOLUMES.
The attention of all parties interested in the dissemination of sound
Theoretical Instruction and Practical Knowledge is particularly directed
to the Twenty-seven Volumes in this Series of Popular and Valuable Books.
1-3. "DAILY WANTS, THE DICTIONARY OF," containing nearly 1,200 pages of
Information upon all matters of Practical and Domestic Utility.
Above 118,000 copies have been sold.
4-7. "USEFUL KNOWLEDGE, THE DICTIONARY OF," a Book of Reference upon
History, Geography, Science, Statistics, &c. A Companion Work to
the "Dictionary of Daily Wants."
8 & 9. "MEDICAL AND SURGICAL KNOWLEDGE, THE DICTIONARY OF," a Complete
Practical Guide on Health and Disease, for Families, Emigrants,
and Colonists.
10. "ENQUIRE WITHIN UPON EVERYTHING."
11. "THE REASON WHY, CHRISTIAN DENOMINATIONS," giving the Origin,
History, and Tenets of the Christian Sects, with the Reasons
assigned _by themselves_ for their Specialities of Faith and
forms of Worship.
12. "THE REASON WHY, PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY," containing upwards
of 1,200 Reasons, explanatory of the Physical Phenomena of
Earth and Sea, their Geological History, and the Geographical
distribution of Plants, Animals, and the Human Race.
13. "THE REASON WHY, BIBLICAL AND SACRED HISTORY," a Family Guide to
Scripture Readings, and a Handbook for Biblical Students.
14. "THE REASON WHY, GENERAL SCIENCE," giving Hundreds of Reasons for
things which, though generally received, are imperfectly
understood. This Volume has reached a sale of 53,000.
15. "THE REASON WHY, HISTORICAL," designed to simplify the study of
English History.
16. "THE REASON WHY, NATURAL HISTORY," giving REASONS for very numerous
interesting Facts in connection with the Habits and Instincts
of the various Orders of the Animal Kingdom.
17. "THE REASON WHY, GARDENING AND FARMING," giving some Thousands of
Reasons for various Facts and Phenomena in reference to the
Cultivation and Tillage of the Soil.
18. "THE REASON WHY, HOUSEWIFE'S SCIENCE," affording to the Manager of
Domestic Affairs intelligible Reasons for the various duties
she has to superintend or to perform.
19. "JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY ALL ROUND OUR HOUSE; OR, THE INTERVIEW," with
copious Information upon Domestic Matters.
20. "THE PRACTICAL HOUSEWIFE AND FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE," a Series of
Instructive Papers on Cookery, Food, Treatment of the Sick,
&c., &c.
21. "THE FAMILY SAVE-ALL," a System of Secondary Cookery with Hints for
Economy in the use of Articles of Household Consumption.
22. "NOTICES TO CORRESPONDENTS," a Work full of curious Information on
all Subjects, gathered from actual Answers to Correspondents of
various Magazines and Newspapers.
23. "THE CORNER CUPBOARD," containing Domestic Information, Needlework
Designs, and Instructions for the Aquarium, &c.
24. "LIFE DOUBLED BY THE ECONOMY OF TIME," and "HOW A PENNY BECAME A
THOUSAND POUNDS." The first of these teaches the Value of
Moments, and shows how Life may be abridged by a careless
indifference to trifles of time; the second pursues a similar
argument with reference to Money.
25 & 26. "WONDERFUL THINGS;" affording interesting descriptions of the
_Wonders of all Nations_, with Illustrations.
27. "THE HISTORICAL FINGER-POST," giving briefly, but clearly, the
meaning and origin of hundreds of Terms, Phrases, Epithets,
Cognomens, Allusions, &c., in connection with History,
Politics, Theology, Law, Commerce, Literature, Army and Navy,
Arts and Sciences, Geography, Tradition, National, Social, and
Personal Characteristics. &c.
* * * * *
CONTENTS.
ADULTERATIONS OF FOOD, TESTS FOR 2747
BEVERAGES, PREPARATION OF, AND RECEIPTS FOR 565, 2267, 2455
BIRD-KEEPING, BEE-KEEPING, AND POULTRY-KEEPING 2155
CARVING, ARRANGEMENTS OF THE DINNER TABLE, ETC. 2616
CHILDREN, REARING AND MANAGEMENT OF 2025
CHOICE OF FOOD, MARKETING, ETC. 1
CONFECTIONERY: CAKES, JELLIES, SWEETMEATS 2091
COMMERCIAL AND MONETARY HINTS, MAXIMS 441
CORRECT SPEAKING, HINTS ON WRITING 161
DECORATION, PAINTING, STAINING, GILDING, ETC. 1413
DESTRUCTION OF VERMIN, NOXIOUS ANIMALS 1722
DRESS, CHOICE, ARRANGEMENT, AND CARE OF 1926
DYEING, SCOURING, CLEANING, LAUNDRY OPERATIONS 2682
EMERGENCIES AND ACCIDENTS, DROWNING, FIRE, ETC. 1376
ETIQUETTE, FORMS AND CEREMONIES OF 1924
FOOD OF VARIOUS KINDS, WHEN IN SEASON 30
FANCY NEEDLEWORK 1808
FUEL, LIGHTING, ETC., ECONOMY AND MANAGEMENT OF 984
FURNITURE, SELECTION AND ARRANGEMENT OF 296
GARDENING OPERATIONS THROUGHOUT THE YEAR 249
HOUSEHOLD CARPENTRY, MENDING, REPAIRING 308
INDOOR GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS 45
LADIES' EMPLOYMENTS: LEATHER-WORK, DIAPHANIE ETC. 2506
LEGAL INFORMATION AND ADVICE 1440
MEDICAL AND SURGICAL ADVICE 475
MINOR COMPLAINTS, COUGH, CRAMP ETC. 553
MISCELLANEOUS PREPARATIONS: INK, GUM, CEMENT, ETC. 2481
OUTDOOR SPORTS AND PASTIMES, LAWN TENNIS 2568
POISONING, TREATMENT IN CASES OF 1340
PREPARATION OF FOOD, COOKING OPERATIONS 1003
PRESERVING AND PICKLING, HINTS ON 1619
MODELLING, PREPARING BOTANICAL SPECIMENS, ETC. 2330
RULES OF CONDUCT: COUNSELS, HINTS, ADVICE 2180
SANITARY PRECAUTIONS AND REGULATIONS 1717
SAUCES, RELISHES, ZESTS, HOW TO PREPARE 2203
TABLES OF PERCENTAGES, INTEREST, MARKETING, WAGES 2770
TOILET REQUISITES, RECEIPTS FOR, ETC. 1677
* * * * *
ENQUIRE WITHIN
UPON
EVERYTHING.
* * * * *
1. Choice of Articles of Food.
Nothing is more important in the affairs of housekeeping than the
choice of wholesome food. Apropos to this is an amusing conundrum
which is as follows:--"A man went to market and bought _two_ fish.
When he reached home he found they were the same as when he had bought
them; yet there were _three!_ How was this?" The answer is--"He bought
two mackerel, and one _smelt!_" Those who envy him his bargain need
not care about the following rules; but to others they will be
valuable:
2. Mackerel
must be perfectly fresh, or it is a very indifferent fish; it will
neither bear carriage, nor being kept many hours out of the water. The
firmness of the flesh and the clearness of the eyes must be the
criteria of fresh mackerel, as they are of all other fish.
3. Turbot, and all flat white fish,
are rigid and firm when fresh; the under side should be of a rich
cream colour. When out of season, or too long kept, this becomes a
bluish white, and the flesh soft and flaccid. A clear bright eye in
any fish is also a mark of its being fresh and good.
4. Cod
is known to be fresh by the rigidity of the muscles (or flesh), the
redness of the gills, and clearness of the eyes. Crimping much
improves this fish.
5. Salmon.
The flavour and excellence of this fish depend upon its freshness and
the shortness of time since it was caught; for no method can
completely preserve the delicate flavour that salmon has when just
taken out of the water. A great deal of what is brought to London has
been packed in ice, and comes from the Scotch and Irish rivers, and,
though perfectly fresh, is not quite equal to salmon from English
streams.
6. Herrings
should be eaten when very fresh; and, like mackerel, will not remain
good many hours after they are caught. But they are excellent,
especially for breakfast relishes, either salted, split, dried, and
peppered, or pickled. Mackerel are very good when prepared in either
of these ways.
7. Fresh Water Fish.
The remarks as to firmness and clear fresh eyes apply to this variety
of fish, of which there are carp, tench, pike, perch, &c.
8. Lobsters
recently caught, have always some remains of muscular action in the
claws, which may be excited by pressing the eyes with the finger; when
this cannot be produced, the lobster must have been too long kept.
When boiled, the tail preserves its elasticity if fresh, but loses it
as soon as it becomes stale. The heaviest lobsters are the best; when
light they are watery and poor. Hen lobsters may generally be known by
the spawn, or by the breadth of the "flap."
9. Crab and Crayfish
must be chosen by observations similar to those given above in the
choice of lobsters. Crabs have an agreeable smell when fresh.
10. Prawns and Shrimps,
when fresh, are firm and crisp.
11. Oysters.
If fresh, the shell is firmly closed; when the shells of oysters are
open, they are dead, and unfit for food. The small-shelled oysters,
the Byfleet, Colchester, and Milford, are the finest in flavour.
Larger kinds, as the Torbay oysters, are generally considered only fit
for stewing and sauces, and as an addition to rump-steak puddings and
pies, though some persons prefer them to the smaller oysters, even
when not cooked. Of late years English oysters have become scarce and
dear; and in consequence the American Blue Point oysters find a ready
market.
12. Beef.
The grain of ox beef, when good, is loose, the meat red, and the fat
inclining to yellow. Cow beef, on the contrary, has a closer grain and
whiter fat, but the meat is scarcely as red as that of ox beef.
Inferior beef, which is meat obtained from ill-fed animals, or from
those which had become too old for food, may be known by a hard,
skinny fat, a dark red lean, and, in old animals, a line of horny
texture running through the meat of the ribs. When meat rises up
quickly, after being pressed by the finger, it may be considered as
being the flesh of an animal which was in its prime; but when the dent
made by pressure returns slowly, or remains visible, the animal had
probably passed its prime, and the meat consequently must be of
inferior quality.
13. Veal
should be delicately white, though it is often juicy and
well-flavoured when rather dark in colour. Butchers, it is said, bleed
calves purposely before killing them, with a view to make the flesh
white, but this also makes it dry and flavourless. On examining the
loin, if the fat enveloping the kidney be white and firm-looking, the
meat will probably be prime and recently killed. Veal will not keep so
long as an older meat, especially in hot or damp weather: when going,
the fat becomes soft and moist, the meat flabby and spotted, and
somewhat porous like sponge. Large, overgrown veal is inferior to
small, delicate, yet fat veal. The fillet of a cow-calf is known by
the udder attached to it, and by the softness of the skin; it is
preferable to the veal of a bull-calf.
14. Mutton.
The meat should be firm and close in grain, and red in colour, the fat
white and firm. Mutton is in its prime when the sheep is about five
years old, though it is often killed much younger. If too young, the
flesh feels tender when pinched; if too old, on being pinched it
wrinkles up, and so remains. In young mutton, the fat readily
separates; in old, it is held together by strings of skin. In sheep
diseased of the rot, the flesh is very pale-coloured, the fat
inclining to yellow; the meat appears loose from the bone, and, if
squeezed, drops of water ooze out from the grains; after cooking, the
meat drops clean away from the bones. Wether mutton is preferred to
that of the ewe; it may be known by the lump of fat on the inside of
the thigh.
15. Lamb.
This meat will not keep long after it is killed. The large vein in the
neck is bluish in colour when the fore quarter is fresh, green when it
is becoming stale. In the hind quarter, if not recently killed, the
fat of the kidney will have a slight smell, and the knuckle will have
lost its firmness.
16. Pork.
When good, the rind is thin, smooth, and cool to the touch; when
changing, from being too long killed, it becomes flaccid and clammy.
Enlarged glands, called kernels, in the fat, are marks of an ill-fed
or diseased pig.
17. Bacon
should have a thin rind, and the fat should be firm, and tinged red by
the curing; the flesh should be of a clear red, without intermixture
of yellow, and it should firmly adhere to the bone. To judge the state
of a ham, plunge a knife into it to the bone; on drawing it back, if
particles of meat adhere to it, or if the smell is disagreeable, the
curing has not been effectual, and the ham is not good; it should, in
such a state, be immediately cooked. In buying a ham, a short thick
one is to be preferred to one long and thin. Of English hams,
Yorkshire, Westmoreland, and Hampshire are most esteemed; of foreign,
the Westphalian. The bacon and "sugar cured" hams now imported in
large quantities from Canada and the United States are both cheap and
good.
18. Venison.
When good, the fat is clear, bright, and of considerable thickness. To
know when it is necessary to cook it, a knife must be plunged into the
haunch; and from the smell the cook must determine whether to dress it
at once, or to keep it a little longer.
19. Turkey.
In choosing poultry, the age of the bird is the chief point to be
attended to. An old turkey has rough and reddish legs; a young one
smooth and black. Fresh killed, the eyes are full and clear, and the
feet moist. When it has been kept too long, the parts about the vent
have a greenish appearance.
20. Common Domestic Fowls,
when young, have the legs and combs smooth; when old these parts are
rough, and on the breast long hairs are found when the feathers axe
plucked off: these hairs must be removed by singeing. Fowls and
chickens should be plump on the breast, fat on the back, and
white-legged.
21. Geese.
The bills and feet are red when old, yellow when young. Fresh killed,
the feet are pliable, but they get stiff when the birds are kept too
long. Geese are called green when they are only two or three months
old.
22. Ducks.
Choose them with supple feet and hard plump breasts. Tame ducks have
yellow feet, wild ones red.
23. Pigeons
are very indifferent food when they are kept too long. Suppleness of
the feet shows them to be young; the flesh is flaccid when they are
getting bad from keeping. Tame pigeons are larger than wild pigeons,
but not so large as the wood pigeon.
24. Hares and Rabbits
when old, have the haunches thick, the ears dry and tough, and the
claws blunt and ragged. A young hare has claws smooth and sharp, ears
that easily tear, and a narrow cleft in the lip. A leveret is
distinguished from a hare by a knob or small bone near the foot.
25. Partridges,
when young, have yellowish legs and dark-coloured bills. Old
partridges are very indifferent eating.
26. Woodcocks and Snipes,
when old, have the feet thick and hard; when these are soft and
tender, they are both young and fresh killed. When their bills become
moist, and their throats muddy, they have been too long killed.
(See FOOD IN SEASON, Pars. 30--42.)
27. Names and Situations of the Various Joints.
28. Meats.
In different parts of the kingdom the method of cutting up carcases
varies. That which we describe below is the most general, and is known
as the English method.
i. Beef.
Fore Quarter Fore rib (five ribs);
middle rib (four ribs);
chuck (three ribs).
Shoulder piece (top of fore leg);
brisket (lower or belly part of the ribs);
clod (fore shoulder blade);
neck;
shin (below the shoulder);
cheek.
Hind Quarter. Sirloin;
rump;
aitch-bone
these are the three divisions of the upper part of the quarter;
buttock and mouse-buttock,
which divide the thigh;
veiny piece, joining the buttock;
thick flank
and thin flank (belly pieces)
and leg.
The sirloin and rump of both sides form a baron.
_Beef is in season all the year; best in winter._
[THE MISER FASTS WITH GREEDY MIND TO SPARE.]
ii. Mutton.
Shoulder;
breast (the belly);
over which are the loin (chump, or tail end):
loin (best end):
neck (best end);
neck (scrag end);
leg;
haunch, or leg and chump end of loin;
and head.
A chine is two necks;
a saddle, two loins.
_Mutton is best in winter, spring, and autumn._
iii. Lamb
is cut into fore quarter
and hind quarter;
saddle;
loin;
neck;
breast;
leg;
and shoulder.
_Grass lamb is in season from Easter to Michaelmas; house lamb from
Christmas to Lady-day._
iv. Pork
is cut into leg,
hand or shoulder;
hind loin;
fore loin;
belly-part;
spare-rib, or neck;
and head.
_Pork is in season nearly all the year round, but is better relished in
winter than in summer._
v. Veal
is cut into neck (scrag end);
neck (best end);
loin (best end);
loin (chump, or tail end);
fillet (upper part of hind leg);
hind knuckle, which joins the fillet;
knuckle of fore leg;
blade (bone of shoulder);
breast (best end);
and breast (brisket end).
_Veal is always in season, but dear in winter and spring._
vi. Venison
is cut into haunch;
neck;
shoulder;
and breast.
_Doe venison is best in January, October, November, and December, and
buck venison in June, July, August, and September._
vii. Scottish Mode of Division.
According to the English method the carcase of beef is disposed of
more economically than upon the Scotch plan. The English plan affords
better steaks, and better joints for roasting; but the Scotch plan
gives a greater variety of pieces for boiling. The names of pieces in
the Scotch plan, not found in the English, are:
the hough, or hind leg;
the nineholes, or English buttock;
the large and small runner,
taken from the rib and chuck pieces of the English plan;
the shoulder-lyer,
the English shoulder, but cut differently;
the spare-rib or fore-sye, the sticking piece, &c.
The Scotch also cut mutton differently.
viii. Ox-tail
is much esteemed for purposes of soup; so also is the Cheek. The
Tongue is highly esteemed. The Heart, stuffed with veal stuffing,
roasted, and served hot, with red currant jelly as an accompaniment,
is a palatable dish. When prepared in this manner it is sometimes
called 'Smithfield Hare', on account of its flavour being something
like that of roast hare.
ix. Calves' Heads
are very useful for various dishes; so also are their Knuckles, Feet,
Heart, &c.
29. Relative Economy of the Joints.
i. The Round
is, in large families, one of the most profitable parts owing to its
comparative freedom from bone: it is usually boiled, and is generally
sold at the same price as the sirloin, and ribs. It is sometimes
divided downwards, close to the bone; one side being known as the 'top
side', and the other as the 'silver side'. Either of these parts is as
good roasted as boiled.
ii. The Brisket
is always less in price than the roasting parts. It is not so
economical a part as the round, having more bone with it, and more
fat. Where there are children, very fat joints are not desirable,
being often disagreeable to them, and sometimes prejudicial,
especially if they have a dislike to fat. This joint also requires
more cooking than many others; that is to say, it requires a double
allowance of time to be given for simmering it; it will, when served,
be hard and scarcely digestible if no more time be allowed to simmer
it than that which is sufficient for other joints and meats. Joints
cooked in a boiler or saucepan, should always be _simmered_, that
is to say, boiled as slowly as possible. Meat boiled fast, or "at a
gallop," as the phrase goes, is always tough and tasteless. The
brisket is excellent when stewed; and when cooked fresh (i.e.,
unsalted) an excellent stock for soup may be extracted from it, and
yet the meat will serve as well for dinner.
iii. The Edge-bone, or Aitch-bone,
is not considered to be a very economical joint, the bone being large
in proportion to the meat; but the greater part of it, at least, is as
good as that of any prime part. On account of the quantity of bone in
it, it is sold at a cheaper rate than the best joints. It may be
roasted or boiled.
iv. The Rump
is the part of which the butcher makes great profit, by selling it in
the form of steaks, but the whole of it may be purchased as a joint,
and at the price of other prime parts. It may be turned to good
account in producing many excellent dishes. If salted, it is simply
boiled; if used unsalted, it is generally stewed.
v. The Veiny Piece
is sold at a moderate price per pound; but, if hung for a day or two,
it is very good and very profitable. Where there are a number of
servants and children to have an early dinner, this part of beef will
be found desirable.
vi. The Leg and Shin
afford excellent stock for soup; and, if not reduced too much, the
meat taken from the bones may be served as a stew with vegetables; or
it may be seasoned, pounded with butter, and potted; or, chopped very
fine, and seasoned with herbs, and bound together by egg and bread
crumbs, it may be fried in balls, or in the form of large eggs, and
served with a gravy made with a few spoonfuls of the soup.
vii. Ox Cheek
makes excellent soup. The meat, when taken from the bones, may be
served as a stew.
viii. The Sirloin and the Ribs
are the roasting parts of beef, and these bear in all places the
highest price. The more profitable of these two joints at a family
table is the ribs. The bones, if removed from the beef before it is
roasted, are useful in making stock for soup. When boned, the meat of
the ribs is often rolled up on the shape of a small round or fillet,
tied with string, and roasted; and this is the best way of using it,
as it enables the carver to distribute equally the upper part of the
meat with the fatter parts, at the lower end of the bones.
30. Food in Season.
There is an old maxim, "A place for everything, and everything in its
place," To which may be added another, "A season for everything, and
everything in season."
[Fish, Poultry, &c., whose names are distinguished by _Italics_
[here marked _like this_] in each month's "Food in Season," are to be
had in the highest perfection during the month.]
31. In Season in January.
i. Fish.
Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, cray-fish, dabs, _dace_, eels,
flounders, _haddocks_, herrings, lampreys, ling, lobsters, mussels,
oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, salmon-trout, shrimps, skate,
smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, _tench_, thornback, turbot,
_whiting_.
ii. Meat.--Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal, and doe venison.
iii. Poultry and Game.--Capons, chickens, ducks, wild-ducks, fowls,
geese, grouse, _hares_, larks, moor-game, partridges, pheasants,
pigeons (tame), pullets, _rabbits_, snipes, turkeys (hen), widgeons,
woodcocks.
iv. Vegetables.--Beet, broccoli (white and purple), Brussels sprouts,
cabbage, cardoons, carrots, celery, chervil, colewort, cresses,
endive, garlic, herbs (dry), Jerusalem artichokes, kale (Scotch),
leeks, lettuces, mint (dry), mustard, onions, parsley, parsnips,
potatoes, rape, rosemary, sage, salsify, Savoy cabbages, scorzonera,
shalots, skirrets, sorrel, spinach (winter), tarragon, thyme, turnips.
v. Forced Vegetables.--Asparagus, cucumbers, mushrooms, sea-kale.
vi. Fruit.--Almonds.
Apples: Golden pippin, golden russet, Kentish pippin,
nonpareil, winter pearmain.
Pears: Bergamot d'Hollande, Bon Chrétien, Chaumontel,
Colmar, winter beurré.
Grapes: English and foreign.
Chestnuts,
medlars,
oranges,
walnuts,
filbert nuts.
[THE HYPOCRITE WILL FAST SEEM MORE HOLY.]
32. In Season in February.
i. Fish.
Barbel, brill, carp, cockles, cod, crabs, cray-fish, dabs, dace, eels,
flounders, haddocks, herrings, lampreys, ling, lobsters, mussels,
oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, salmon, shrimps, skate, smelts,
soles, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting.
ii. Meat.
Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal.
iii. Poultry and Game.
Capons, chickens, ducklings, geese, hares, partridges, pheasants,
pigeons (tame and wild), rabbits (tame), snipes, turkeys, turkey
poults, wild-ducks, woodcocks.
iv. Vegetables.
Beet, broccoli (white and purple), Brussels sprouts, cabbage,
cardoons, carrots, celery, chervil, colewort, cresses, endive, garlic,
herbs (dry), Jerusalem artichokes, leeks, lettuces, mint (dry),
mushrooms, onions, parsnips, parsley, potatoes, radish, rape,
rosemary, sage, salsify, Savoys, scorzonera, shalots, skirrets,
sorrel, spinach, sprouts, tarragon, thyme, turnips, winter savoury.
v. Forced Vegetables.
Asparagus, cucumbers, mushrooms, sea-kale, &c.
vi. Fruit.
Apples: Golden pippin, golden russet, Holland pippin, Kentish pippin,
nonpareil, Wheeler's russet, winter pearmain. Chestnuts, oranges.
Pears: Bergamot, winter Bon Chrétien, winter Russelet.
33. In Season in March.
i. Fish.
Brill, carp, cockles, cod, conger-eels, crabs, dabs, dory, eels,
flounders, ling, lobsters, mackerel, mullets, mussels, oysters, perch,
pike, plaice, prawns, salmon, salmon-trout, shrimps, skate, smelts,
soles, sturgeon, turbot, tench, and whiting.
ii. Meat.
Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal.
iii. Poultry and Game.
Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, geese, grouse, leverets, pigeons,
rabbits, snipes, turkeys, woodcocks.
iv. Vegetables.
Artichokes (Jerusalem), beet, broccoli (white and purple), Brussels
sprouts, cabbage, cardoons, carrots, celery, chervil, colewort,
cresses, endive, garlic, herbs (dry), kale (sea and Scotch), lettuces,
mint, mushrooms, mustard, onions, parsley, parsnips, potatoes, rape,
rosemary, sage, Savoys, shalots, sorrel, spinach, tarragon, thyme,
turnips, turnip-tops.
v. Forced Vegetables.
Asparagus, French beans, cucumbers, and rhubarb.
vi. Fruit.
Apples: Golden russet, Holland pippin, Kentish pippin, nonpareil,
Norfolk beefing, Wheeler's russet. Chestnuts, oranges. Pears:
Bergamot, Chaumontel, winter Bon Chrétien. _Forced:_ Strawberries.
34. In Season in April.
i. Fish.
Brill, carp, chub, cockles, cod, conger-eels, _crabs_, dabs, dory,
eels, floandeis, halibut, herrings, ling, _lobsters_, mackerel,
mullets, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, _prawns_, plaice, _salmon_,
shrimps, _skate_, smelts, soles, sturgeon, _tench_, trout, turbot,
whiting.
ii. Meat.
Beef, grass-lamb, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal.
iii. Poultry and Game.
Chickens, ducklings, fowls, geese, leverets, pigeons, pullets,
rabbits, turkey poults, wood-pigeons.
iv. Vegetables.
Asparagus, broccoli, chervil, colewort, cucumbers, endive, fennel,
herbs of all sorts, lettuce, onions, parsley, parsnips, peas,
radishes, sea-kale, sorrel, spinach, small salad, tarragon,
turnip-radishes, turnip-tops, and rhubarb.
v. Fruit.
Apples: Golden russet, nonpareil, Wheeler's russet. Nuts, oranges.
Pears: Bergamot, Bon Chrétien, Carmelite. _Forced:_ Apricots,
cherries, strawberries.
35. In Season in May.
i. Fish.
Brill, carp, chub, cod, conger-eels, _crab_, cray-fish, dabs, dace,
dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddock, halibut, herring, ling,
_lobsters_, mackerel, mullet, perch, pike, plaice, _prawns_, _salmon_,
shrimps, _skate_, smelts, soles, sturgeon, tench, trout, turbot,
whiting.
ii. Meat.
Beef, grass-lamb, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal.
iii. Poultry and Game.
Chickens, ducklings, fowls, geese, leverets, pigeons, pullets,
rabbits; wood-pigeons.
iv. Vegetables.
Angelica, artichokes, asparagus, balm, kidney-beans, cabbage, carrots,
cauliflowers, chervil, cucumbers, fennel, herbs of all sorts, lettuce,
mint, onions, parsley, peas, new potatoes, radishes, rhubarb, salad of
all sorts, sea-kale, sorrel, spinach, turnips.
v. Fruit.
Apples: Golden russet, winter russet. May-duke cherries; currants;
gooseberries; melons. Pears: L'amozette, winter-green. _Forced_:
Apricots, peaches, strawberries.
36. In Season in June.
i. Fish.
Carp, cod, conger-eels, _crabs_, cray-fish, dabs, dace, dory, eels,
flounders, gurnets, haddocks, herrings, ling, _lobsters_, mackerel,
mullet, perch, pike, plaice, _prawns, salmon, salmon-trout, skate_,
smelts, soles, sturgeon, tench, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.
ii. Meat.
Beef, _grass-lamb_, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal, buck venison.
iii. Poultry and Game.
Chickens, ducklings, fowls, geese, leverets, pigeons, plovers,
pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheat-ears, wood-pigeons.
iv. Vegetables.
Angelica, artichokes, asparagus, beans (French, kidney, and Windsor),
white beet, cabbage, carrots, cauliflowers, chervil, cucumbers,
endive, herbs of all sorts, leeks, lettuce, onions, peas, potatoes,
radishes, salad of all sorts, spinach, turnips, vegetable marrow.
v. For Drying.
Burnet, mint, tarragon, lemon thyme.
vi. Fruit.
Apples: Quarrenden, stone pippin, golden russet. Apricots. Cherries:
May-duke, bigaroon, white-heart. Currants; gooseberries; melons.
Pears: Winter-green. Strawberries. _Forced_: Grapes, nectarines,
peaches, pines.
37. In Season in July.
i. Fish
Barbel, brill, carp, cod, conger-eels, _crabs_, cray-fish, dabs,
_dace_, dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddocks, herrings, ling,
_lobsters_, _mackerel_, mullet, perch, pike, plaice, _prawns_, salmon,
skate, soles, tench, thornback, trout.
ii. Meat.
Beef, _grass-lamb_, mutton, veal, buck venison.
iii. Poultry and Game.
_Chickens_, ducks, fowls, _green geese_, leverets, pigeons, plovers,
rabbits, turkey poults, wheat-ears, wild pigeons, wild rabbits.
iv. Vegetables.
Artichokes, asparagus, balm, beans (French, kidney, scarlet, and
Windsor), carrots, cauliflowers, celery, chervil, cucumbers, endive,
herbs of all sorts, lettuces, mushrooms, peas, potatoes, radishes,
salads of all sorts, salsify, scorzonera, sorrel, spinach, turnips.
v. For Drying.
Knotted marjoram, mushrooms, winter savoury.
vi. For Pickling.
French beans, red cabbage, cauliflowers, garlic, gherkins,
nasturtiums, onions.
vii. Fruit.
Apples: Codlin, jennetting, Margaret, summer pearmain, summer pippin,
quarrenden. Apricots, cherries (black-heart), currants, plums,
greengages, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, peaches. Pears:
Catherine, green-chisel, jargonelle. Pineapples, raspberries,
strawberries.
[WITHOUT ECONOMY NONE CAN BE RICH.]
38. In Season in August.
i. Fish.
Barbel, brill, carp, cod, conger-eels, crabs, cray-fish, dabs, _dace_,
eels, flounders, gurnets, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, _mackerel_,
mullet, oysters, _perch, pike_, plaice, _prawns_, salmon, skate,
tench, thornback, _turbot_, whiting.
ii. Meat.
Beef, grass-lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.
iii. Poultry and Game.
Chickens, ducks, fowls, _green geese, grouse_ (from 12th), leverets,
pigeons, plovers, rabbits, turkeys, turkey poults, wheat-ears, wild
ducks, wild pigeons, wild rabbits.
iv. Vegetables.
Artichokes, beans (French, kidney, scarlet and Windsor), white beet,
carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cucumbers, endive, pot-herbs of all
sorts, leeks, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes,
salad of all sorts, salsify, scorzonera, shalots, spinach, turnips.
v. For Drying.
Basil, sage, thyme.
vi. For Pickling.
Red cabbage, capsicums, chilies, tomatoes, walnuts.
vii. Fruit.
Apples: Codlin, summer pearmain, summer pippin. Cherries, currants,
figs, filberts, gooseberries, grapes, melons, mulberries, nectarines,
peaches. Pears: Jargonelle, summer, Bon Chrétien, Windsor. Plums,
greengages, raspberries, Alpine strawberries.
39. In Season in September.
i. Fish.
Barbel, brill, carp, cockles, cod, conger-eels, crab, _dace_, eels,
flounders, gurnets, haddocks, hake, herrings, lobsters, mullet,
mussels, _oysters, perch, pike_, plaice, prawns, shrimps, soles,
tench, thornback, turbot, whiting.
ii. Meat.
Beef, mutton, pork, veal, buck venison.
iii. Poultry and Game.
Chickens, ducks, fowls, _green geese, grouse, hares_, larks, leverets,
partridges, pigeons, plovers, rabbits, _teal_, turkeys, turkey poults,
wheat-ears, _wild ducks_, wild pigeons, wild rabbits.
iv. Vegetables.
Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, beans (French and scarlet),
cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cucumbers, endive, herbs of
all sorts, leeks, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, parsnips, peas,
potatoes, radishes, salad of all sorts, shalots, turnips.
v. Fruit.
Apples: Golden nob, pearmain, golden rennet. Cherries (Morella),
damsons, figs, filberts. Grapes: Muscadine, Frontignac, red and black
Hamburgh, Malmsey. Hazel nuts, walnuts, medlars, peaches. Pears:
Bergamot, brown beurré. Pineapples, plums, quinces, strawberries,
walnuts.
40. In Season in October.
i. Fish.
Barbel, brill, turbot, carp, cockles, cod, conger-eels, crabs, _dace,
dory_, eels, gudgeon, haddocks, _hake_, halibut, herrings, lobsters,
mussels, oysters, perch, _pike_, prawns, salmon-trout, shrimps,
smelts, soles, tench, thornback, whiting.
ii. Meat.
Beef, mutton, pork, veal, doe venison.
iii. Poultry and Game.
Chickens, dotterel, ducks, fowls, green geese, grouse, hares, larks,
moor-game, partridges, _pheasants_, pigeons, rabbits, snipes, teal,
turkey, wheat-ears, widgeon, wild ducks, wild pigeons, wild rabbits,
woodcocks.
iv. Vegetables.
Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflowers,
celery, coleworts, endive, herbs of all sorts, leeks, onions,
parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, salad, Savoys, scorzonera,
skirrets, shalots, spinach (winter), tomatoes, truffles, turnips.
v. Fruit.
Apples: Pearmain, golden pippin, golden rennet, royal russet. Black
and white bullace, damsons, late figs, almonds, filberts, hazel nuts,
walnuts, filberts. Grapes, medlars. Peaches: Old Newington, October.
Pears: Bergamot, beurré, Chaumontel, Bon Chrétien, swan's-egg.
Quinces, services, walnuts.
41. In Season in November.
i. Fish.
Barbel, brill, turbot, carp, cockles, cod, crabs, _dace, dory_, eels,
gudgeons, gurnets, haddocks, _hake_, halibut, herrings, ling,
lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, _pike_, plaice, prawns, salmon,
shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, tench, thornback, turbot,
whiting.
ii. Meat.
Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal, doe venison.
iii. Poultry and Game.
Chickens, dotterel, ducks, fowls, _geese, grouse, hares_, larks,
partridges, pheasants, pigeons, rabbits, _snipes, teal_, turkey,
wheat-ears, widgeon, wild ducks, _wood-cocks_.
iv. Vegetables.
Jerusalem artichokes, beet root, borecole, broccoli, cabbages,
cardoons, carrots, celery, chervil, coleworts, endive, herbs of all
sorts, leeks, lettuces, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salad, Savoys,
scorzonera, skirrets, shalots, spinach, tomatoes, turnips.
v. Fruit.
Almonds. Apples: Holland pippin, golden pippin, Kentish pippin,
nonpareil, winter pearmain, Wheeler's russets. Bullace, chestnuts,
hazel nuts, walnuts, filberts, grapes, medlars. Pears: Bergamot,
Chaumontel, Bon Chrétien.
[WITH ECONOMY, FEW NEED BE POOR.]
42. In Season in December.
i. Fish.
Barbel, brill, turbot, carp, cockles, _cod_, crabs, dab, _dory_, eels,
gudgeon, gurnets, haddocks, bake, halibut, herrings, _ling_, lobsters,
mackerel, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, ruffe, salmon,
shrimps, _skate_, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, _tench_, whitings.
ii. Meat.
Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal, doe venison.
iii. Poultry and Game.
Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, grouse, guinea-fowl, hares,
larks, partridges, pea-fowl, pheasants, pigeons, rabbits, snipes,
teal, turkeys, wheat-ears, widgeon, wild ducks, woodcocks.
iv. Vegetables.
Jerusalem artichokes, beet root, borecole, white and purple broccoli,
cabbages, cardoons, carrots, celery, endive, herbs of all sorts,
leeks, lettuces, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salad, Savoys,
scorzonera, skirrets, shalots, spinach, truffles, turnips,
_forced_ asparagus.
v. Fruit.
Almonds. Apples: Golden pippin, nonpareil, winter pearmain, golden
russet. Chestnuts, hazel nuts, walnuts, filberts, Almeria grapes,
medlars, oranges. Pears: Bergamot, beurre d'hiver.
43. Drying Herbs.
Fresh herbs are preferable to dried ones, but as they cannot always be
obtained, it is most important to dry herbs at the proper seasons:
Basil is in a fit state for drying about the middle of August,
Burnet in June, July, and August,
Chervil in May, June, and July.
Elder Flowers in May, June, and July.
Fennel in May, June, and July.
Knotted Marjoram during July.
Lemon Thyme end of July and through August.
Mint, end of June and July.
Orange Flowers, May, June, ard July.
Parsley, May, June, and July.
Sage, August and September.
Summer Savoury, end of July and August.
Tarragon, June, July, and August.
Thyme, end of July and August.
Winter Savoury, end of July and August.
These herbs always at hand will be a great aid to the cook. Herbs
should be gathered on a dry day; they should be immediately well
cleansed, and dried by the heat of a stove or Dutch oven. The leaves
should then be picked off, pounded and sifted, put into stoppered
bottles, labelled, and put away for use. Those who are unable or may
not care to take the trouble to dry herbs, can obtain them prepared
for use in bottles at the green-grocer's.
44. Dr. Kitchiner's Rules for Marketing.
The best rule for marketing is to pay ready money for everything, _and
to deal with the most respectable tradesmen_ in your neighbourhood. If
you leave it to their integrity to supply you with a good article at
the fair market price, you will be supplied with better provisions,
and at as reasonable a rate as those bargain-hunters who trot
"_around, around, around about_" a market till they are trapped to buy
some _unchewable_ old poultry, _tough_ tup-mutton, _stringy_ cow-beef,
or _stale_ fish, at a very little less than the price of prime and
proper food. With _savings_ like these they toddle home in triumph,
cackling all the way, like a goose that has got ankle-deep into good
luck. All the skill of the most accomplished cook will avail nothing
unless she is furnished with prime provisions. The best way to procure
these is to deal with shops of established character: you may appear
to pay, perhaps, ten _per cent._ more than you would were you to deal
with those who pretend to sell cheap, but you would be much more than
in that proportion better served. Every trade has its tricks and
deceptions; those who follow them can deceive you if they please, and
they are too apt to do so if you provoke the exercise of their
over-reaching talent. Challenge them to a game at "_Catch who can_,"
by entirely relying on your own judgment, and you will soon find
nothing but very long experience can make you equal to the combat of
marketing to the utmost advantage. If you think a tradesman has
imposed upon you, never use a second word, if the first will not do,
nor drop the least hint of an imposition; the only method to induce
him to make an abatement is the hope of future favours; pay the
demand, and deal with the gentleman no more; but do not let him see
that you are displeased, or as soon as you are out of sight your
reputation will suffer as much as your pocket has. Before you go to
market, look over your larder, and consider well what things are
wanting--especially on a Saturday. No well-regulated family can suffer
a disorderly caterer to be jumping in and out to make purchases on a
Sunday morning. You will be enabled to manage much better if you will
make out a bill of fare for the week on the Saturday before; for
example, for a family of half a dozen:
Sunday Roast beef and pudding.
Monday Fowl, what was left of pudding fried,
or warmed in the Dutch oven.
Tuesday Calf's head, apple pie.
Wednesday Leg of mutton.
Thursday Ditto broiled or hashed, and pancakes.
Friday Fish, pudding.
Saturday Fish, or eggs and bacon.
It is an excellent plan to have certain things on certain days. When
your butcher or poulterer knows what you will want, he has a better
chance of doing his best for you; and never think of ordering beef for
roasting except for Sunday. When you order meat, poultry, or fish,
tell the tradesman when you intend to dress it: he will then have it
in his power to serve you with provision that will do him credit,
which the finest meat, &c., in the world will never do, unless it has
been kept a proper time to be ripe and tendar.
(Kitchiner's Cook's Oracle 56th Thousand. 5s. Houlsion & Sons.)
[DO GOOD TO YOUR ENEMY, THAT HE MAY BECOME YOUR FRIEND.]
45. The Family Circle