hotels and lodging-houses growing along Christchurch Bay to Highcliffe
Castle, which was recently selected as _Kur-ort_ for the Kaiser, who
here seems to have profited by the mild air and by the views of the Isle
of Wight that are the chief attraction of this shore. He may also have
admired the prospect on Hengistbury Head, which some stories make the
scene of the first German invasion of England. Then beyond the mouth of
the Stour and Avon, are reached the purlieus of Bournemouth, where the
Island drops out of sight.
On the other side, between Lymington and Southampton Water, extends to
the Solent a heathy projection of the New Forest, not so much known to
strangers as it deserves. The centre of interest here is the ruined
Beaulieu Abbey, from the materials of which Henry VIII. is said to have
built Hurst Castle, while its foundation is the one good deed recorded
of King John, and that wrung out of him with as much pain as was Magna
Charta. The legend goes that this graceless king, bearing a grudge
against the Cistercian Order, had persuaded or compelled its abbots to
attend a parliament at Lincoln, where he threatened to fling them under
the feet of wild horses. But at night he was terrified by a dream:
brought to trial before a nameless judge, with the churchmen he had
menaced for witnesses against him, he found himself condemned to a
severe scourging at their hands, like his father’s chastisement for the
death of Thomas à Becket. And lo! when he awoke, the lashes had left no
visionary smart. So he saw wise to make expiation for the sacrilege he
had meditated; then his repentance took the established form of building
and endowing a Cistercian Abbey at Beaulieu. The remains still make a
hoary show by the Beaulieu River, further down which Buckler’s Hard was
once a building place of men-of-war; and at the mouth was an old ferry
to the Island. There is not much traffic now about this muddy shore,
near which, towards Lymington, Sowley Pond takes rank as the largest
Hampshire lake. The Solent, here locked in by the Isle of Wight, has the
aspect of a great lake in views that Cobbett took to bear out the title
_Bellus locus_, vernacularly corrupted into _Bewley_. And, as I have
given a catalogue of novels dealing with the Island, let me mention an
excellent one, Mr A. Marshall’s _Exton Manor_, which clearly has for its
scene this edge of the New Forest.
The chief Solent ferry is, of course, at Portsmouth, whereof tourists
might do well to see more than is seen from the railway line to its
pier, the main knot of Isle of Wight communications, while by Gosport
and Southsea, on either side of the town, are alternative crossings to
Ryde. Portsmouth is not so rich in antiquities as Southampton, its most
notable buildings being the fine modern Church of Portsea, one of the
grandest town-halls in England, and the largest Naval Barracks in the
world; but it is an ancient place, interesting as our chief marine
arsenal, which in case of war might become a Sebastopol or a Port
Arthur. Like Plymouth, it is rather a group of towns, Portsmouth,
Portsea, and Southsea, run together beside the wide inlet of the
harbour, on the other side of which stands Gosport. Naturally it has a
marked naval flavour, strongest on the Hard, familiar to so many
generations of Jacks and Sues, behind which the narrow main street of
Landport makes such a lively scene of a Saturday night. Off Gosport Hard
is moored the old _Victory_, whose deck no Briton can tread without
pride, nor would a generous enemy be unmoved on the spot where “mighty
Nelson fell,” and in the gloomy cockpit where he died. Portsmouth has
for another shrine the birthplace of Charles Dickens, at No. 387
Commercial Road, Landport, now cared for as public property and
containing a collection of relics. Walter Besant was also a native, who
has celebrated the scenes of his boyhood in _Celia’s Arbour_.
The great sight is the Dockyard, over which all visitors who can glory
in the name of Briton are conducted by its garrison of Metropolitan
Police; but foreigners must bring special credentials for admission. A
visit to the _enceinte_ of fortifications cannot be recommended, as
these are of a modestly retiring disposition, and make a purposed blank
on the faithful Ordnance Survey maps. Beyond the fort-crowned Downs
behind, some fine country may be reached by tram; but the scenery of the
low island on which Portsmouth has its site, too much consists of
bastions, barracks, prisons, and other useful, but unlovely
institutions.
Southsea, the moral West End of Portsmouth, which is at its east end,
holds out most attractions to tarrying strangers. It seems a favourite
place of residence or sojourn for retired or idle officers of both
services, who enjoy the stir of parades and regimental bands, and the
view of the Solent always alive with yachts, steamers, and men-of-war;
but it is not so well adapted for a quiet family bathing-place, unless
to the taste of nursery maids, who here would be well off for red-coated
and blue-jacketed “followers.” A special feature is the wide Common
cutting off the houses from the sea-front, with its gay piers and long
esplanade leading round the modernised walls of Southsea Castle. Hence
let us take our last gaze upon the wooded shores of the Isle of Wight,
where, four or five miles off across the Solent, Ryde steeple stands up
as the starting-point of our arm-chair tour, now to be ended, I trust,
with the reader’s gratuity of good-will towards his _cicerone_.
INDEX
Adams, Rev. W., 84
Afton Down, 103
Albert, Prince, 107, 151
Alexandrian Pillar, 92
_All Moonshine_, 137
Alum Bay, 115
Alverston, 62
_Amours Anglais_, 128
Approaches to Island, 17, 154
Appuldurcombe, 52
Arnold of Rugby, 148
Arreton, 57
Ashey Down, 57
Atherfield Point, 99
Back of the Island, 77, 92
Badd, E., Epitaph on, 31
Barton Manor-house, 150
Battenberg, Prince of, 11, 151
Battenberg, Princess Beatrice, 11, 46, 152
Beaulieu, 168
Bembridge, 60
Bembridge Down, 61
Benedictine Monks, 27, 53
Benson, story of, 64
Bevis of Hampton, romance, 41, 158
Binstead, 25
Black, William, _quoted_, 90
Blackgang Chine, 97
“Blue Slipper,” the, 77
Bonchurch, 83
Bordwood Forest, 62
Bouldnor Cliffs, 123
Brading, 54
Brighstone or Brixton, 101
Brook Point, 102
Buddle Inn, 89
Calbourne, 124
Cameron, Mrs, 106
Captains of the Island, 8
Carisbrooke, 36
---- Castle, 39
Caves at Freshwater, 112
Chale, 98
Chale Bay, 96
Charles I., imprisonment of, 41
Chines, formation of, 74
Clarke, Sir James, 78
Climate, 14
Colepeper, Lord, 9
Colwell Bay, 118
Compton Bay, 102
Consumption Hospital, 88
Cook’s Castle, 74
Cowes, 139
Cripple Path, the, 89
Culver Cliffs, 61
_Dairyman’s Daughter, The_, 58
Davenant’s _Gondibert_, 145
De Montague, “Count.” _See_ Benson
Dewar, Mr G. A. B., _quoted_, 29
Downs, the, 2, 48, 53, 62, 82, 92, etc.
Dunnose, 75
East Cowes, 148
Egypt Point, 146
Elizabeth, Princess, 35, 44
Empress Eugenie, escape of, 23
Englefield, Sir Henry, _quoted_, 22, 98, 115
_Eurydice_, loss of the, 75
Fairfax family in America, 10
Farringford, 106
Fielding at Ryde, 20
Fishbourne, 27
Fitz-Osborne, William, 7
_Flora Vectensis_, 16
Foghorns, 94
Foreland, the, 60
Fossil Forest, 102
Freshwater, 104
Freshwater Bay, 104, 112
Garde Family, 50
Gatcombe, 53
Geology of the Island, 2, 100
Gloucester, Duke of, 44
Godshill, 49
Gosport, 169
Governors of the Island, 10
Grange Chine, 101
Gurnard Bay, 48, 147
Hammond, Colonel, 41
Hamstead Ledges, 123
Harringford, 62
Haven Street, 28
Headon Hill, 117
Highcliffe Castle, 167
History of Island, 5
Holmes, O. W., _quoted_, 15
Holmes, Sir Robert, 120
Hopson, Sir T., 121
Horsey, Sir E., 8, 13, 34
Howells, Mr W. D., 81, 166
Hulverston, 102
Hurst Castle, 44, 118, 167
Industries of the Island, 13
Invasion, alarms of, 95, 122
Isabella de Fortibus, 8, 62
James, Rev. E. B., 38, 56
_Jane the Young Cottager_, 55
Jeffrey, Lord, _quoted_, 73
John, King, 149, 155, 168
Keats in the Island, 47, 73
Ken, Bishop, 101
King of the Island, 8
King’s Quay, 149
Kingston, 100
Knighton, 58
Ladder Chine, 99
Lake, 62
Landslip, the, 85
Lira, Monks of, 7
Lisle Family, 27
Longfellow in the Island, 73
Long Stone, the, 101
“Lot’s Wife,” 114
Luccombe Chine, 75
Lugley Stream, the, 33
Lymington, 17, 119, 167
Main Bench, the, 113
Mantell the geologist, _quoted_, 102
Medina River, 3, 34, 48, 139
Meredith, Mr George, _quoted_, 126
Merston Junction, 49, 62
Military Road, the, 100
Moberley, Bishop, 101
Monks’ Bay, 84
Morland, George, 122
Morley, Henry, 39
Mottistone, 101
Naval College at Osborne, 153
Needles, the, 114
Netley, 154
Nettleston Green, 31
Newchurch, 62
New Forest, the, 157
Newport, 33
Newton, 123
Niton, 90
“Noah’s Nuts,” 111
Nodes, the, 113
Norris Castle, 149
Northwood, 147
Novels about the Island, 125
Nuns from abroad, 147
Nunwell, 55
Oglander, Sir John, 11, 26, 31, 47, 50, 54, 139
Osborne, 149
Osborne, Dorothy, 38
Pan Down, 49
Parkhurst Forest, 46, 123
Peel’s _Fair Isle_, _quoted_, 100
Population of Island, 4
Portsmouth, 17, 169
Pound Green, 106
Priory Bay, 31
Puckaster Cove, 89
Puckpool Fort, 30
Quarr Abbey, 25
Queen’s Bower, 62
Railways of Island, 17, 33
_Ralph Roister Doister_, 124
Redvers Family, 7, 25
Rew Down, 83
Reynolds, J. H., 35
Richmond, Rev. Legh, 55
Rocken End, 96
Roman villas, 6
---- Brading, 57
---- Carisbrooke, 39
Ross, Alexander, 38
Rowborough remains, 48
_Royal George_, loss of, 22
Royal Yacht Squadron, 144
Ryde, 19
St Boniface Down, 82
St Catherine’s Down, 92
St Catherine’s Point Lighthouse, 93
St George’s Down, 48
St Helens, 31, 59
St John’s, 28
St Lawrence, 88
Sandown, 62
Sandrock, 90
School Green, 106
Scott, Sir W., _quoted_, 48
Scottish Soldiers in Island, 47
Scratchell’s Bay, 113
Sea View, 28
Seismological Observatory, Dr Milne’s, 49
Sewell, Elizabeth, 16, 84
Shanklin, 72
Sheepwash Green, 106
Shide, 49
Shipwrecks, 96
Shorwell, 100
Simeon, Sir John, 36
Solent, the, 1, 28, 143, 154, 168, 170
Solent Tunnel, proposed, 120
Southampton, 17, 155
Southsea, 170
Spithead, 22
Spring Vale, 30
“Squadron,” the, 144
Steephill Castle, 81
Stephens, William, 38
Sterling, John, 84
Swainston, 124
Swinburne, Mr A. C., _quoted_, 89
Temple, Sir W., 39
Tennyson, Lady, 110
Tennyson, Lord, 14, 106, 111, 148
Totland Bay, 117
“Turf Frauds” case, the, 70
Tyndall, Professor, 113
Udall, Nicholas, 124
Undercliff, the, 77
Vane, Sir H., 44
Ventnor, 78
Victoria, Queen, 149
Walpen Chine, 99
Ward, W. G., 147
Wardens of the Island, 8
Webster, T., _quoted_, 85, 116
Week Down, 83, 92
Whippingham, 151
Whitecliff Bay, 61
Whitwell, 53
Wilberforce, Bishop, 101
“Wilderness,” the, 48
Wilfred of Selsey, 7, 56
Wilkes, John, 63
William the Conqueror at Carisbrooke, 7
Wishing Well, 82
Woodvile, Sir E., 8
Wootton, 27
Wordsworth in the Island, 112
Worsley Family, the, 49
Worsley, Sir R., 8, 52
Worsley Monument, 53
Wroxall, 75
Yar, the Eastern, 3, 59, 62
Yar, the Western, 3, 104, 118
Yachting, 142
Yarborough, Lord, 52
Yarbridge, 57
Yarmouth, 119
Yaverland, 61
Zangwill, Mr I., _quoted_, 126
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* * * * *
BOOKS FOR ANGLERS
Price 7s. 6d. net each
Size 8 × 5½ ins.
Edited by F. G. AFLALO
Fishermen’s Weather
Opinions and Experiences by 100 well-known Anglers
CONTAINING 8 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS
IN COLOUR FROM PICTURES BY CHARLES
WHYMPER, F.Z.S.
By W. EARL HODGSON
Trout Fishing
(SECOND EDITION)
CONTAINING FRONTISPIECE AND A MODEL
BOOK OF FLIES IN COLOUR
By W. EARL HODGSON
Salmon Fishing
CONTAINING 8 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS
IN COLOUR, INCLUDING MODEL CASES OF
74 VARIETIES OF SALMON FLIES, AND 10
FULL-PAGE REPRODUCTIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS
MISCELLANEOUS BOOKS
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By MORTIMER MENPES, R.I., R.E.
Rembrandt
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16 EXAMPLES OF THE MASTER’S WORK, REPRODUCED IN COLOUR
FACSIMILE BY A SPECIAL PROCESS
By SIR WALTER SCOTT
The Lady of the Lake
LARGE CROWN OCTAVO, CLOTH, GILT TOP
PRICE 5s. NET
50 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS (8 OF THEM IN COLOUR, FROM
PAINTINGS BY SUTTON PALMER)
By W. C. STEWART
The Practical Angler
or, the Art of Trout Fishing, more
particularly applied to Clear Water
LARGE CROWN OCTAVO, CLOTH
PRICE 3s. 6d. NET
CONTAINING COLOURED FACSIMILES OF
THE FLIES USED BY MR. STEWART
(6 PLATES)
THE PORTRAIT BIOGRAPHIES SERIES.
Size 6¼ × 4 ins.
By MORTIMER and DOROTHY MENPES
Sir Henry Irving
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BOOKS FOR BOYS AND GIRLS
ALL WITH FULL-PAGE
ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
PRICE =6s.= EACH
Size 8¼ × 6 ins.
By S. R. CROCKETT
Red Cap Tales
Stolen from the Treasure-Chest of the Wizard of the North
16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY SIMON HARMON VEDDER
Edited by G. E. MITTON
Swiss Family Robinson
12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY HARRY ROUNTREE
By ASCOTT R. HOPE
Adventures of Punch
12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY STEPHEN BAGHOT DE LA BERE
_ANIMAL AUTOBIOGRAPHIES_
The Black Bear. By H. PERRY ROBINSON
The Cat. By VIOLET HUNT
The Dog. By G. E. MITTON
The Fox. By J.C. TREGARTHEN
The Rat. By G. M. A. HEWETT
The Squirrel. By T. C. BRIDGES
EACH CONTAINING 12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR
_Others in preparation._
Translated and Abridged by DOMINICK DALY
The _Adventures_ of Don Quixote
12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY STEPHEN BAGHOT DE LA BERE
Gulliver’s Travels
16 full-page illustrations in colour BY STEPHEN BAGHOT DE LA BERE
By JOHN BUNYAN
The Pilgrim’s Progress
8 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY GERTRUDE DEMAIN HAMMOND, R.I.
By P. G. WODEHOUSE
William Tell Told Again
16 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY PHILIP DADD
By G. E. MITTON
Children’s Book of London
12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY JOHN WILLIAMSON
By G. E. MITTON
Children’s Book of Stars