The swim being beyond the horses, they were left hobbled out on the
north banks, to wait for the river to fall, and after another swift race
down and across stream, Mine Host landed every one safely on the south
side of the flood, and soon we were clambering up the steep track that
led from the river to the “Pub.”
Coming up from the river, the Katherine Settlement appeared to consist
solely of the “Pub” and its accompanying store; but beyond the “Pub,”
which, by the way, seemed to be hanging on to its own verandah posts for
support, we found an elongated, three-roomed building, nestling under
deep verandahs, and half-hidden beneath a grove of lofty scarlet
flowering ponchianas.
“The Cottage is always set apart for distinguished visitors,” Mine Host
said, bidding us welcome with another smile, but never a hint that he
was placing his own private quarters at our disposal. Like all bushmen,
he could be delicately reticent when conferring a favour; but a
forgotten razor-strop betrayed him later on.
In the meantime we discovered the remainder of the Settlement from the
Cottage verandahs, spying out the Police Station as it lurked in ambush
just round the first bend in a winding bush track—apparently keeping one
eye on the “Pub”; and then we caught a gleam of white roofs away beyond
further bends in the track, where the Overland Telegraph “Department”
stood on a little rise, aloof from the “Pub” and the Police, shut away
from the world, yet attending to its affairs, and, incidentally, to
those of the bush-folk: a tiny Settlement, with a tiny permanent
population of four men and two women—women who found their own homes
all-sufficient, and rarely left them, although the men-folk were here,
there, and everywhere.
All around and within the Settlement was bush: and beyond the bush,
stretching away and away on every side of it, those hundreds of
thousands of square miles that constitute the Never-Never—miles sending
out and absorbing again from day to day the floating population of the
Katherine.
Before supper the Telegraph Department and the Police Station called on
the Cottage to present compliments. Then the Wag came with his welcome.
“Didn’t expect you to-day,” he drawled, with unmistakable double meaning
in his drawl. “You’re come sooner than we expected. Must have had luck
with the rivers”; and Mac became enthusiastic. “Luck!” he cried. “Luck!
She’s got the luck of the Auld Yin himself—skinned through everything by
the skin of our teeth. No one else’ll get through those rivers under a
week.” And they didn’t.
Remembering the telegrams, the Wag shot a swift quizzing glance at him;
but it took more than a glance to disconcert Mac once his mind was made
up, and he met it unmoved, and entered into a vivid description of the
“passage of the Fergusson,” which filled in our time until supper.
After supper the Cottage returned the calls, and then, rain coming down
in torrents, the Telegraph, the Police, the Cottage and the “Pub”
retired to rest, wondering what the morrow would bring forth.
The morrow brought forth more rain, and the certainty that, as the river
was still rising, the swim would be beyond the horses for several days
yet; and because of this uncertainty, the Katherine bestirred itself to
honour its tethered guests.
The Telegraph and the Police Station issued invitations for dinner, and
the “Pub” that had already issued a hint that “the boys could refrain
from knocking down cheques as long as a woman was staying in the place”
now issued an edict limiting the number of daily drinks per man.
The invitations were accepted with pleasure, and the edict was attended
to with a murmur of approval in which, however, there was one dissenting
voice: a little bearded bushman “thought the Katherine was overdoing it
a bit,” and suggested as an amendment that “drunks could make themselves
scarce when she’s about.” But Mine Host easily silenced him by offering
to “see what the missus thought about it.”
Then for a day the Katherine “took its bearings,” and keen, scrutinising
glances summed up the Unknown Woman, looking her through and through
until she was no longer an Unknown Woman, while the Maluka looked on
interested. He knew the bush-folk well, and that their instinct would be
unerring, and left the missus to slip into whichever niche in their
lives they thought fit to place her. And as she slipped into a niche
built up of strong, staunch comradeship, the black community considered
that they, too, had fathomed the missus; and it became history in the
camp that the Maluka had stolen her from a powerful Chief of the Whites,
and, deeming it wise to disappear with her until the affair had blown
over, had put many flooded rivers between him and his pursuers. “Would
any woman have flung herself across rivers on wires, speeding on without
rest or pause, unless afraid of pursuit?” the camp asked in committee,
and the most sceptical were silenced.
Then followed other days full of pleasant intercourse; for once sure of
its welcome, bushmen are lavish with their friendship. And as we roamed
about the tiny Settlement, the Wag and others vied with the Maluka, Mine
Host, and Mac in “making things pleasant for the missus”: relating
experiences for her entertainment; showing all there was to be shown,
and obeying the edict with cheerful, unquestioning chivalry.
Neither the Head Stockman nor the little bushman, however, had made any
offers of friendship, Dan having gone out to the station immediately
after interviewing the Maluka, while the little bushman spent most of
his time getting out of the way of the missus whenever she appeared on
his horizon.
“A Tam-o-Shanter fleeing from the furies of a too fertile imagination,”
the Maluka laughed after a particularly comical dash to cover.
Poor Tam! Those days must live in his memory like a hideous nightmare!
I, of course, knew nothing of the edict at the time—for bushmen do not
advertise their chivalry—and wandered round the straggling Settlement
vaguely surprised at its sobriety, and turning up in such unexpected
places that the little bushman was constantly on the verge of apoplexy.
But experience teaches quickly. On the first day, after running into me
several times, he learned the wisdom of spying out the land before
turning a corner. On the second day, after we had come on him while thus
engaged several other times, he learned the foolishness of placing too
much confidence in corners, and deciding by the law of averages that the
bar was the only safe place in the Settlement, availed himself of its
sanctuary in times of danger. On the third day he learned that the law
of averages is a weak reed to lean on; for on slipping round a corner,
and mistaking a warning signal from the Wag, he whisked into the bar to
whisk out again with a clatter of hobnailed boots, for I was in there
examining some native curios. “She’s in THERE next,” he gasped as he
passed the Wag on his way to the cover of the nearest corner.
“Poor Tam!” How he must have hated women as he lurked in the doubtful
ambush of that corner.
“HOW he did skoot!” the Wag chuckled later on when recounting with glee,
to the Maluka and Mac, the story of Tam’s dash for cover.
Pitying Tam, I took his part, and said he seemed a sober, decent little
man and couldn’t help being shy; then paused, wondering at the queer
expression on the men’s faces.
Mac coughed in embarrassment, and the Maluka and the Wag seemed pre-
occupied, and, fearing I had been misunderstood, I added hastily: “So is
everyone in the Settlement, for that matter,” thereby causing further
embarrassment.
After a short intense silence the Wag “thought he’d be getting along,”
and as he moved off the Maluka laughed. “Oh, missus, missus!” and Mac
blurted out the whole tale of the edict—concluding rather ambiguously by
saying: “Don’t you go thinking it’s made any difference to any of us,
because it hasn’t. We’re not saints, but we’re not pigs, and, besides,
it was a pleasure.”
I doubted if it was much pleasure to Tam-o-Shanter; but forgetting he
was sober by compulsion, even he had begun to feel virtuous; and when he
heard he had been called a “sober, decent little man,” he positively
swaggered; and on the fourth morning walked jauntily past the Cottage
and ventured a quiet good-morning—a simple enough little incident in
itself; but it proved Tam’s kinship with his fellowmen. For is it not
the knowledge that some one thinks well of us that makes us feel at ease
in that person’s company?
Later in the same day, the flood having fallen, it was decided that it
would be well to cross the horses in the rear of a boat, and we were all
at the river discussing preparations, when Tam electrified the community
by joining the group.
In the awkward pause that followed his arrival he passed a general
remark about dogs—there were several with us—and every one plunged into
dog yarns, until Tam, losing his head over the success of his maiden
speech, became so communicative on the subject of a dog-fight that he
had to be surreptitiously kicked into silence.
“Looks like more rain,” Mac said abruptly, hoping to draw public
attention from the pantomime. “Ought to get off as soon as possible, or
we’ll be blocked at the King.”
The Katherine seized on the new topic of conversation, and advised
“getting out to the five-mile overnight,” declaring it would “take all
day to get away from the Settlement in the morning.” Then came another
awkward pause, while every one kept one eye on Tam, until the Maluka
saved the situation by calling for volunteers to help with the horses,
and, Tam being pressed into the service, the boat was launched, and he
was soon safe over the far side of the river.
Once among the horses, the little man was transformed. In the quiet,
confident horseman that rode down the gorge a few minutes later it would
have been difficult to recognise the shy, timid bushman. The saddle had
given him backbone, and it soon appeared he was right-hand man, and, at
times, even organiser in the difficult task of crossing horses through a
deep, swift-running current.
As the flood was three or four hundred yards wide and many feet deep, a
swim was impossible without help, and every horse was to be supported or
guided, or dragged over in the rear of the boat, with a halter held by a
man in the stern.
It was no child’s play. Every inch of the way had its difficulties. The
poor brutes knew the swim was beyond them; and as the boat, pulling
steadily on, dragged them from the shallows into the deeper water, they
plunged and snorted in fear, until they found themselves swimming, and
were obliged to give all their attention to keeping themselves afloat.
Some required little assistance when once off their feet; just a slow,
steady pull from the oars, and a taut enough halter to lean on in the
tight places. But others rolled over like logs when the full force of
the current struck them, threatening to drag the boat under, as it and
the horse raced away down stream with the oarsmen straining their
utmost.
It was hard enough work for the oarsmen; but the seat of honour was in
the stern of the boat, and no man filled it better than the transformed
Tam. Alert and full of resource, with one hand on the tiller, he leaned
over the boat, lengthening or shortening rope for the halter, and
regulating the speed of the oarsmen with unerring judgment; giving a
staunch swimmer time and a short rope to lean on, or literally dragging
the faint-hearted across at full speed; careful then only of one thing:
to keep the head above water. Never again would I judge a man by one of
his failings.
There were ten horses in all to cross, and at the end of two hours’ hard
pulling there was only one left to come—old Roper.
Mac took the halter into his own hands there was no one else worthy—and,
slipping into the stern of the boat, spoke first to the horse and then
to the oarsmen; and as the boat glided forward, the noble, trusting old
horse—confident that his long-tried human friend would set him no
impossible task—came quietly through the shallows, sniffing questions at
the half-submerged bushes.
“Give him time!” Mac called. “Let him think it out,” as step by step
Roper followed, the halter running slack on the water. When almost out
of his depth, he paused just a moment, then, obeying the tightening
rope, lifted himself to the flood and struck firmly and bravely out.
Staunchly he and Mac dealt with the current: taking time and approaching
it quietly, meeting it with taut rope and unflinching nerve, drifting
for a few breaths to judge its force; then, nothing daunted, they
battled forward, stroke after stroke, and won across without once
pulling the boat out of its course.
Only Roper could have done it; and when the splendid neck and shoulders
appeared above water as he touched bottom, on the submerged track, he
was greeted with a cheer and a hearty, unanimous “Bravo! old chap!” Then
Mac returned thanks with a grateful look, and, leaping ashore, looked
over the beautiful, wet, shining limbs, declaring he could have “done it
on his own,” if required.
Once assured that we were anxious for a start, the Katherine set about
speeding the parting guests with gifts of farewell. The Wag brought
fresh tomatoes and a cucumber; the Telegraph sent eggs; the Police a
freshly baked cake; the Chinese cook baked bread, and Mine Host came
with a few potatoes and a flat-iron. To the surprise of the Katherine, I
received the potatoes without enthusiasm, not having been long enough in
the Territory to know their rare value, and, besides, I was puzzling
over the flat iron.
“What’s it for?” I asked, and the Wag shouted in mock amazement: “For!
To iron duds with, of course,” as Mine Host assured us it was of no use
to him beyond keeping a door open.
Still puzzled, I said I thought there would not be any need to iron duds
until we reached the homestead, and the Maluka said quietly: “It’s FOR
the homestead. There will be nothing like that there.”
Mac exploded with an impetuous “Good Heavens! What does she expect?
First pillows and now irons!”
Gradually realising that down South we have little idea of what “rough”
means to a bushman, I had from day to day been modifying my ideas of a
station home from a mansion to a commodious wooden cottage, plainly but
comfortably furnished. The Cottage had confirmed this idea, but Mac soon
settled the question beyond all doubt.
“Look here!” he said emphatically. “Before she leaves this place she’ll
just have to grasp things a bit better,” and sitting down on a swag he
talked rapidly for ten minutes, taking a queer delight in making
everything sound as bad as possible, “knocking the stiffening out of the
missus,” as he phrased it, and certainly bringing the “commodious
station home” about her ears, which was just as well, perhaps.
After a few scathing remarks on the homestead in general, which he
called “One of those down-at-the-heels, anything-’ll-do sort of places,”
he described The House. “It’s mostly verandahs and promises,” he said;
“but one room is finished. We call it The House, but you’ll probably
call it a Hut, even though it has got doors and calico windows framed
and on hinges.”
Then followed an inventory of the furniture. “There’s one fairly steady,
good-sized table at least it doesn’t fall over, unless some one leans on
it; then there’s a bed with a wire mattress, but nothing else on it; and
there’s a chair or two up to your weight (the boss’ll either have to
stand up or lie down), and I don’t know that there’s much else excepting
plenty of cups and plates—they’re enamel, fortunately, so you won’t have
much trouble with the servants breaking things. Of course there’s a
Christmas card and a few works of art on the walls for you to look at
when you’re tired of looking at yourself in the glass. Yes! There’s a
looking-glass—goodness knows how it got there! You ought to be thankful
for that and the wire-mattress. You won’t find many of them out bush.”
I humbly acknowledged thankfulness, and felt deeply grateful to Mine
Host, when, with ready thoughtfulness he brought a couple of china cups
and stood them among the baggage—the heart of Mine Host was as warm and
sincere as his flashing smiles. I learned, in time, to be indifferent to
china cups, but that flat-iron became one of my most cherished
possessions—how it got to the Katherine is a long, long story, touching
on three continents, a man, a woman, and a baby.
The commodious station home destroyed, the Katherine bestirred itself
further in the speeding of its guests. The Telegraph came with the offer
of their buggy, and then the Police offered theirs; but Mine Host,
harnessing two nuggety little horses into his buck-board, drove round to
the store, declaring a buck-board was the “only thing for the road.”
“You won’t feel the journey at all in it,” he said, and drove us round
the Settlement to prove how pleasant and easy travelling could be in the
Wet.
“No buggy obtainable,” murmured the Maluka, reviewing the three offers.
But the Sanguine Scot was quite unabashed, and answered coolly: “You
forget those telegrams were sent to that other woman—the Goer, you
know—there WAS no buggy obtainable for HER. By George! Wasn’t she a
snorter? I knew I’d block her somehow,” and then he added with a gallant
bow and a flourish: “You can see for yourselves, chaps, that she didn’t
come.”
The Wag mimicked the bow and the flourish, and then suggested accepting
all three vehicles and having a procession “a triumphal exit that’ll
knock spots off Pine Creek.”
“There’d be one apiece,” he said, “and with Jackeroo as outrider, and
loose horses to fill in with, we could make a real good thing of it if
we tried. There’s Tam, now; he’s had a fair amount of practice lately,
dodging round corners, and if he and I stood on opposite sides of the
track, and dodged round bushes directly the procession passed coming out
farther along, we could line the track for miles with cheering crowds.”
The buck-board only being decided on, he expressed himself bitterly
disappointed, but promised to do his best with that and the horses;
until hearing that Mac was to go out to the “five-mile” overnight with
the pack-team and loose horses, leaving us to follow at sun-up, he
became disconsolate and refused even to witness the departure.
“I’d ’av willingly bust meself cheering a procession and lining the
track with frantic crowds,” he said, “but I’m too fat to work up any
enthusiasm over two people in a buck-board.”
A little before sundown Mac set out, after instructing the Katherine to
“get the buck-board off early,” and just before the Katherine “turned
in” for the night, the Maluka went to the office to settle accounts with
Mine Host.
In five minutes he was back, standing among the ponchianas, and then
after a little while of silence he said gently: “Mac was right. A woman
does not represent business here.” Mine Host had indignantly refused
payment for a woman’s board and lodging.
“I had to pay, though,” the Maluka laughed, with one of his quick
changes of humour. “But, then, I’m only a man.”