Fismes in 1918.
The town was again occupied by the Germans on May 28, 1918, after stiff
fighting.
On May 27, 1918, the first day of their great offensive, the Germans
reached the Vesle at about 7.30 in the evening, on both sides of Fismes.
At one in the morning, on the 28th, the Germans crossed the Vesle,
outflanking the town on the west. Other enemy troops, who only forced
the passage of the river towards noon, were supported on their left and
progressed dangerously. A frontal attack forced the French, who were
defending Fismes, to retire, in order to avoid being surrounded.
Fismes was delivered on August 4 and 5 by the Americans (3rd Corps), who
had reached the outskirts of the town on the evening of the previous
day. On the 4th, street by street, at the bayonet’s point, they captured
the town. From the 6th to the 10th the fighting continued to be
extremely violent along the river, and in front of Fismettes. On the 6th
American units crossed the Vesle near Fismettes, but on the 8th and 9th
the Germans counter-attacked vigorously to the east of Fismes and before
Fismettes. After breaking down the German resistance, the Americans
occupied Fismettes definitely on the 10th. On the following days,
especially on the 12th and 28th, furious counter-attacks by the Germans
failed to retake Fismettes.
The offensive by General Mangin’s army against the tablelands to the
north-east of Soissons, from August 30, made itself felt along the Vesle
front. Fearing to be outflanked, and in order to shorten his front, the
enemy abandoned the heights overlooking the river, and retreated to the
Aisne during the night of September 3-4. On the 4th, Franco-American
troops crossed the Vesle along an eighteen-mile front, advancing on an
average about two and a half miles to the north. On the 5th they reached
the Aisne.
_After visiting Fismes, if the tourist desires to go to_ =Rheims=, _he
should continue in the direction taken to go to the cemetery, following
N. 31._
_To continue the itinerary of the_ American battle, _return to the
Hôtel-de-Ville and follow N. 31 towards Bazoches_. _Cross the railway
(level-crossing), the river in the middle of the marshes, then the
bridge over the railway_. The bombardment did great damage here. On
arriving at =Bazoches=, _take the road which branches off N. 31 and leads
to the village_. The walls of the cemetery on the left are in ruins. By
the side of the cemetery are the graves of the American soldiers who
fell in the vicinity.
[Illustration: BAZOCHES CHURCH.]
=Bazoches= is one of the most ancient country towns in the Department of
the Aisne. It is held by some to have had its origin in the public
granaries built there by the Romans after their conquest of Gaul.
Several martyrdoms took place there.
[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF BAZOCHES.
_The N. 31 road which the tourist has just left runs at the foot of the
hill._]
[Illustration: BAZOCHES CHÂTEAU IN 1914.]
Situated on the railway from Soissons to Rheims, and connected by branch
lines with the railway from Paris to Châlons, _via_ Château-Thierry and
Epernay, and the lines radiating from Villers-Cotterets towards Paris,
the important position of Bazoches was hotly disputed during the
fighting from May to August, 1918.
The Americans co-operated actively in its re-capture in August, 1918. On
August 7 they crossed the Vesle to the east of the town, under
particularly difficult conditions. The river and its banks literally
bristled with wire entanglements, and were swept by deadly machine-gun
and artillery fire, but the Americans got across nevertheless.
The itinerary passes in front of the Church of St. Peter (12th and 13th
centuries).
_Leaving the church on the right_, the Square from which the above
photograph was taken, _is reached_. View on the left of the remains of
the 12th century Castle, which now serves as a farm. It is flanked by a
tower at each of its four corners and in the middle of each side. The
great moat which surrounded the central portion of the building was
protected by a wall (practically intact on the south-west) flanked by
twenty-two round towers. Several of the latter are still standing.
[Illustration: BAZOCHES CASTLE IN 1918.]
[Illustration: ALL THAT REMAINED OF MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1918.
_Compare with photo below, taking as a guide the two trees._]
_Continue along the road, turn to the left, cross the railway
(level-crossing), then the river; take the first road on the right (I.
C. 33) towards_ Mont-Notre-Dame, and follow the valley of the Vesle.
This river, which rises in the Department of the Marne, flows from east
to west, entering the Department of the Aisne to the north of Bazoches.
According to tradition it owes its existence and name to a Queen of the
Belgians.
_Pass under, then over the railway, and enter the village of_
=Mont-Notre-Dame=.
The village is very ancient, and was no doubt first built on the top of
the plateau, at the foot of which it now stands. From 589 to 985 A.D.
six Councils of Prelates were held there, and in the 11th century two
Synods.
[Illustration: MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1914.
_See photo above._]
[Illustration: ANOTHER VIEW OF THE RUINS OF MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN
1918.
_Compare with photo below._]
Mont-Notre-Dame, an isolated hill, sugar-loaf in shape, dominates all
the surrounding country. It formed an excellent position for the
artillery during the fighting in this region and was used by both sides.
_In the village turn to the left and skirt the hill, then take the steep
rise on the right, which leads to the top. On the right_, caverns are
visible in the hill-sides. The church, now a mere heap of stones, is
next reached. The cemetery is behind.
According to tradition this church (_historical monument_) was founded
in the 9th century. It was rebuilt in the 12th and 13th centuries.
Only part of the vast original edifice (similar in style to the
Cathedral of Soissons) was retained when the church was rebuilt. In
1650, when the Spanish occupied the surrounding country, the peasants
took refuge in the towers of the church. They were discovered, and the
church set on fire, most of the peasants being burnt alive.
[Illustration: MONT-NOTRE-DAME CHURCH IN 1914 SEEN FROM THE CEMETERY.
_Compare with photo above._]
[Illustration: RUINS OF THE CASTLE AT MONT-NOTRE-DAME IN 1918.]
The ruins of the 18th century château, destroyed by the bombardments,
stand on the left of the church. The entrance-gates, enclosure wall, and
an isolated outbuilding are all that the bombardments have spared.
Inside the park a heap of débris and stones marks the spot where the
castle stood.
The castle was protected by a fortress with massive towers and donjon,
which was destroyed and rebuilt several times.
_From the top of the hill_ fine panorama of the valley of the Vesle to
the north. There was much severe fighting on its banks throughout the
War.
_At the bottom of the hill turn to the right and follow the uphill road
G. C. 14 to_ =Chéry-Chartreuve=.
_To visit the church keep to the left of the village, and climb on foot
the small hill_, on which the church stands. _To visit the_ American
Cemetery (about three-quarters of a mile from the village) _follow G. C.
21 in the same direction_.
_Return to Chéry-Chartreuve and continue along G. C. 14 to_ =Dravegny=,
_passing straight through_.
[Illustration: CEMETERY IN CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE VILLAGE. AMERICAN AND FRENCH
GRAVES SIDE BY SIDE.]
[Illustration: INTERIOR OF CHURCH AT CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE.]
[Illustration: AMERICAN ARTILLERYMEN NEAR CHÉRY-CHARTREUVE.]
[Illustration: AMERICAN TROOPS PASSING THROUGH DRAVIGNY VILLAGE.]
[Illustration: COULONGES VILLAGE.]
Fine run down to =Cohan=. _Turn to the right in front of the_ church,
_then to the left, to cross the river, and afterwards to the right
towards_ =Coulonges=.
This village existed at the time of the Roman invasion. In 1838 the
foundations of Gallo-Roman houses and various objects belonging to the
same period were discovered in the court-yard of the notary’s house. The
Americans captured the village on August 2.
_On leaving Coulonges turn to the right and cross the river. At the
following fork, if not pressed for time, visit the_ Castle of Nesle
(2-1/2 miles); the American Cemetery at Seringes (3-1/2 miles); and the
village and castle of Fère-en-Tardenois (5-1/2 miles). To this end take
_the G. C. 2 on the right to_ =Nesles=. _The road leading to the castle
(on the right) is rough._
Portions of the castle are well preserved, including the enclosure
walls, flanked by six towers 60 feet high. The door opening on the
northern curtain is protected by two similar towers. The donjon, now in
ruins, was 100 feet high.
The castle was built about the year 1230 by Robert de Dreux, Count of
Braime. Pierre de Rieux, Marshal of France, was imprisoned there by
Guillaume de Flavy in the 15th century, and murdered by his jailer.
[Illustration: DONJON AND ENTRANCE TO NESLES CASTLE.]
[Illustration: NESLES CASTLE SEEN FROM THE TOP OF THE DONJON.]
Guillaume de Flavy, who was notorious for his ferocious cruelty, turned
the castle into a stronghold for his mercenaries. It was he who
delivered Joan of Arc to the Burgundians at Compiègne, of which town he
was governor.
The castle was captured by the Americans after three days’ fighting
(July 28 to 31, 1918).
_Continue towards_ =Seringes=. _On the right of the road, rather more than
a mile after_ Nesles, there is an American Cemetery.
The village, which is slightly to the north of the road, was taken by
the Americans on July 31, 1918. Early in the morning of August 1 the
Germans retook it during a counter-attack, only to lose it again. In
this region the Americans encountered two picked German Divisions (4th
Guards and 6th Bavarians), beating them soundly.
[Illustration: AMERICAN CEMETERY AT SERINGES.]
[Illustration: FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS CHURCH.]
=Fère-en-Tardenois=, which is reached shortly afterwards, is very ancient,
although tradition, according to which it was the “Fara” given by Clovis
to St. Genevieve, and by the latter to St. Remi, is now generally
admitted to be mythical.
On May 30, 1918, Fère was recaptured by the Germans, only to be
reconquered by the Allies during their counter-offensive of July.
Already on the 19th the French were within nine miles of the town, but
on the following days the Germans made a determined stand in the
outskirts. On the 25th the resistance of the enemy, who had been
reinforced by a fresh division of Bavarian reserves, stiffened, but
broke down on the 27th. The Germans were obliged to retreat, and the
French occupied the town on the 28th.
On the 30th the enemy counter-attacked and retook the railway station to
the north of the town, but on August 1, in spite of bitter resistance
and the withering fire of countless machine-guns, the Allies continued
to gain ground. In danger of being outflanked on the north-west, the
Germans further retreated on August 2, which completely liberated the
town.
_In the village turn to the left to visit the_ church.
[Illustration: INTERIOR OF CHURCH AT FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS.]
[Illustration: THE MARKET-HALL AT FÈRE-EN-TARDENOIS IN 1917.]
The church, which was destroyed during the Hundred Years’ War, was
rebuilt in the 16th century--the nave at the beginning, the choir later,
and the steeple in full Renaissance period.
In the left aisle there is a 17th century funeral monument, and in the
right a carved churchwardens’ bench. The pulpit is adorned with carved
figures of the Evangelists. The high altar with twisted columns is of
gilt wood, and is surmounted by an “Adoration of the Wise Men” by Vignon
(1643), flanked by a painting of St. Hubert and a portrait of Louis
XIII. curing a sick person, when passing through Fère in May, 1635. The
altar of painted wood, with its carved wooden screen, painted and gilded
(1664), is on the left, and serves as a reliquary for the remains of
Saint Macre, the Patron-Saint of La Fère. It was taken from the former
Church of Courmont. In one of the last windows of the southern aisle was
some 16th century stained-glass.
_After visiting the church, turn to the right (looking towards it) into
the_ “Grande Place,” which contains a stone fountain and the old Market
Hall.
The round pillars and wooden posts of the Market Hall, which was
finished in 1552, support the fine timber-work roof.
The latter was destroyed by shell-fire, but has been temporarily
repaired (_see photos above and below_).
[Illustration: THE ABOVE MARKET HALL IN 1918.
(Note the temporary pitch-paper roof.)]
[Illustration: THE GREAT BRIDGE OF FÈRE CASTLE.
(_See below_).]
_Cross the square, skirting the Market Hall, and turn to the left
towards the castle._
_To enter the castle, take the second road on the right, after the pond,
and pass under the great bridge, which will bring the tourist out in
front of the castle._
_To visit the_ Great Bridge _and_ the ruins of the Feudal Castle, _take
the lane on the left of the latter_.
=Castle of Fère= (_Historical Monument_).--This is one of the finest
sights in the region. The present buildings include some of the ancient
outbuildings (restored) and the fortress.
[Illustration: FÈRE CASTLE.]
The castle was begun in 1206, by Robert de Dreux and Jean de Bretagne,
on an eminence which was artificially isolated from the neighbouring
hill.
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE GALLERY LEADING TO THE RUINS OF THE
FEUDAL CASTLE OF FÈRE.]
Anne de Montmorency, to whom it was given in 1528 by François Ier,
transformed it into an elegant and rich mansion.
Large bay-windows were made in the towers and curtains. The mediæval
entrance was replaced by the present magnificent covered bridge, which
measures approximately 200 feet in length, 11 feet in width, and 65 feet
in height, and which was probably built by the famous Renaissance
architect, Jean Bullant (photo, p. 120).
The portico at the entrance of the gallery is adorned with mutilated
carvings, attributed by some to Jean Goujon.
The long vaulted entrance leads to an enclosure, around which are eight
ruined towers. Seen from the outside, these towers are remarkable for
their peculiar construction. The castle, which was falling into ruins,
was pulled down by Louis-Philippe of Orleans.
[Illustration: REMAINS OF THE FEUDAL CASTLE AND THE GALLERY LEADING
THITHER.]
[Illustration: MARKET-DAY IN THE GRAND’ PLACE AT FÈRE.]
_Return to and cross through_ Fère, _leaving the market-place on the
right_. _Return, by the road previously taken, to the fork at_
Coulonges, _and take G. C. 14 on the right to_ =Chamery=. This village was
reconquered by the Americans on July 31, 1918, in spite of the enemy’s
strenuous efforts to keep it.
_At the entrance to Chamery, where the road turns to the right, follow
on foot the path leading to the_ =grave of Lieutenant Quentin Roosevelt=,
which is about 300 yards further on.
_After Chamery, turn to the left, towards_ Cierges.
On the left of the road is =Reddy Farm=, which was taken by the Americans
on August 1, 1918, after sharp fighting.
The tableland on the right was used as an aviation camp.
[Illustration: LIEUTENANT QUENTIN ROOSEVELT’S GRAVE AT CHAMERY (_see
above_).]
[Illustration: RUINED CHURCH AT CIERGES.]
=Cierges= is reached soon afterwards. This village is extremely ancient,
many Gaulish and Gallo-Roman objects having been unearthed there. It was
captured by the Americans (32nd Division) on July 31, as well as Sergy,
which the 42nd Division lost and retook three times.
_Take the road to the right, to_ =Courmont=, _crossing the Ourcq River_.
There are some American graves _at the fork before entering Courmont_.
_In front of the ruined church, turn to the left._
_Before leaving the village, turn again to the left, then at the fork,
500 yards beyond the village, take the road on the right to_ Charmel.
The road passes through a wood, cut to pieces by the shells. German
artillery was installed there. At the other side is the road which leads
to the =Castle of Charmel=, about 300 yards distant. The castle, which is
magnificently situated, overlooks (_to the North_) the vast plain which
spreads out between the extreme points of the Forests of Fère and Ris
and (_to the South_) the valley of the Marne.
[Illustration: THIS WAS THE VILLAGE CHURCH AT COURMONT.]
[Illustration: CHARMEL CASTLE.]
It was to this castle that, before dying, the Bishop of Metz, _Pierre
Bédacier_, summoned _Bossuet_ (future Bishop of Meaux), and gave up in
favour of the latter, the Priory of Gassicourt-les-Mantes, in the
Diocese of Chartres, of which he was the Senior Prior. Bossuet had
considerable difficulty in getting the transfer ratified and was accused
of having acted fraudulently by those who disputed his claims.
The cemetery is near by. At the entrance to the village is one of the
familiar Michelin “Merci” signs (_to be found in most localities in
France_) which indicate the name of the village and the number of the
road.
[Illustration: BARRICADE AT THE ENTRANCE TO CHARMEL VILLAGE.]
[Illustration: THE GRAND’ PLACE AT JAULGONNE.]
Placed at both ends of the villages on the great touring routes, these
signs, in addition to the information above mentioned, bear the request
“_Mind the Children_,” on one side, and “Merci” (_Thanks_) on the other.
_Leave the church on the right, keep to the left, then take the road on
the right (G. C. 3), which leads towards the valley of the Marne._ Very
fine view along the zig-zag, down-hill road to the river.
=Jaulgonne= is next reached.
From Courmont to Jaulgonne the road runs between the woods of Fère (_to
the west_) and Ris (_to the east_), in the middle of the region which
the Americans conquered from July 22, 1918, onwards.
[Illustration: CHARTÈVES CHURCH.]
The fighting was extremely fierce throughout this region. To save their
guns and organize their retreat the Germans stubbornly opposed the
American advance. However, foot by foot, they were obliged to give way
before the impetuous onrush of the Americans. From the 23rd to the 26th
the latter, after a prolonged struggle, captured Charmel and the whole
of the heights running parallel to the Marne. The German prisoners
captured in Ris Wood declared that their orders were to hold out at all
costs, to allow of a counter-attack by two divisions of the Guards. On
the succeeding days
[Illustration: RUINED CHURCH AT MONT-ST.-PÈRE.]
the Americans continued to clear the northern part of the wood, and
finally drove the enemy back to the Ourcq, which was crossed on the
29th.
_Pass through_ Jaulgonne, _and keep straight on at the fork in the road
on leaving the village_. The road follows the Marne. Pass through
=Chartèves= (photo p. 125), _shortly after which_ =Mont-St.-Père= _is
reached_.
[Illustration: AMERICAN CEMETERY AT MONT-ST.-PÈRE (1918).]
[Illustration: GLAND VILLAGE IN RUINS.