The island of Tumleo lies in 142° 25" of East Longitude and 3° 15" of

South Latitude, and is distant about sixty sea-miles from the

westernmost point of German New Guinea. It is a coral island, surrounded

by a barrier reef and rising for the most part only a few feet above the

sea.[361] In stature the natives fall below the average European height;

but they are well fed and strongly built. Their colour varies from black

to light brown. Their hair is very frizzly. Women and children wear it

cut short; men wear it done up into wigs. They number less than three

hundred, divided into four villages. The population seems to have

declined through wars, disease, and infanticide.[362] Like the Papuans

generally, they live in settled villages and engage in fishing,

agriculture, and commerce. The houses are solidly built of wood and are

raised above the ground upon piles, which consist of a hard and durable

timber, sometimes iron-wood.[363] The staple food of the people is sago,

which they obtain from the sago-palm. These stately palms, with their

fan-like foliage, are rare on the coral island of Tumleo, but grow

abundantly in the swampy lowlands of the neighbouring mainland.

Accordingly in the months of May and June, when the sea is calm, the

natives cross over to the mainland in their canoes and obtain a supply

of sago in exchange for the products of their island. The sago is eaten

in the form both of porridge and of bread.[364] Other vegetable foods

are furnished by sweet potatoes, taro, yams, bananas, sugar-cane, and

coco-nuts, all of which the natives cultivate.[365] Fishing is a

principal industry of the people; it is plied by both sexes and by old

and young, with nets, spears, and bows and arrows.[366] Pottery is

another flourishing industry. As among many other savages, it is

practised only by women, but the men take the pots to market; for these

islanders do a good business in pots with the neighbouring tribes.[367]

They build large outrigger canoes, which sail well before the wind, but

can hardly beat up against it, being heavy to row. In these canoes the

natives of Tumleo make long voyages along the coast; but as the craft

are not very seaworthy they never stand out to sea, if they can help it,

but hug the shore in order to run for safety to the beach in stormy

weather.[368] In regard to art the natives display some taste and skill

in wood-carving. For example, the projecting house-beams are sometimes

carved in the shape of crocodiles, birds, and grotesque human figures;

and their canoes, paddles, head-rests, drums, drum-sticks, and vessels

are also decorated with carving. Birds, fish, crocodiles, foliage, and

scroll-work are the usual patterns.[369]

[Sidenote: The temples (_paraks_) of Tumleo.]

A remarkable feature in the villages of Tumleo and the neighbouring

islands and mainland consists of the _paraks_ or temples, the high

gables of which may be seen rising above the bushes in all the villages

of this part of the coast. No such buildings exist elsewhere in this

region. They are set apart for the worship of certain guardian spirits,

and on them the native lavishes all the resources of his elementary arts

of sculpture and painting. They are built of wood in two storeys and

raised on piles besides. The approach to one of them is always by one or

two ladders provided on both sides with hand-rails or banisters. These

banisters are elaborately decorated with carving, which is always of the

same pattern. One banister is invariably carved in the shape of a

crocodile holding a grotesque human figure in its jaws, while on the

other hand the animal's tail is grasped by one or more human figures.

The other banister regularly exhibits a row of human or rather ape-like

effigies seated one behind the other, each of them resting his arms on

the shoulders of the figure in front. Often there are seven such figures

in a row. The natives are so shy in speaking of these temples that it is

difficult to ascertain the meaning of the curious carvings by which they

are adorned. Mr. Parkinson supposed that they represent spirits, not

apes. He tells us that there are no apes in New Guinea. The interior of

the temple (_parak_) is generally empty. The only things to be seen in

its two rooms, the upper and lower, are bamboo flutes and drums made out

of the hollow trunks of trees. On these instruments men concealed in the

temple discourse music in order to signify the presence of the

spirit.[370]

[Sidenote: The bachelors' houses (_alols_) of Tumleo.]

Different from these _paraks_ or temples are the _alols_, which are

bachelors' houses and council-houses in one. Like the temples, they are

raised above the ground and approached by a ladder, but unlike the

temples they have only one storey. In them the unmarried men live and

the married men meet to take counsel and to speak of things which may

not be mentioned before women. On a small stand or table in each of

these _alols_ or men's clubhouses are kept the skulls of dead men. And

as the temple (_parak_) is devoted to the worship of spirits, so the

men's clubhouse (_alol_) is the place where the dead ancestors are

worshipped. Women and children may not enter it, but it is not regarded

with such superstitious fear as the temple. The dead are buried in their

houses or beside them. Afterwards the bones are dug up and the skulls of

grown men are deposited, along with one of the leg bones, on the stand

or table in the men's clubhouse (_alol_). The skulls of youths, women,

and children are kept in the houses where they died. When the table in

the clubhouse is quite full of grinning trophies of mortality, the old

skulls are removed to make room for the new ones and are thrown away in

a sort of charnel-house, where the other bones are deposited after they

have been dug up from the graves. Such a charnel-house is called a

_tjoll páru_. There is one such place for the bones of grown men and

another for the bones of women and children. Some bones, however, are

kept and used as ornaments or as means to work magic with. For the dead

are often invoked, for example, to lay the wind or for other useful

purposes; and at such invocations the bones play a part.[371]

[Sidenote: Spirits of the dead thought to be the causes of sickness and

disease.]

But while the spirits of the dead are thus invited to help their living

relations and friends, they are also feared as the causes of sickness

and disease. Any serious ailment is usually attributed to magic or

witchcraft, and the treatment which is resorted to aims rather at

breaking the spell which has been cast on the sick man than at curing

his malady by the application of physical remedies. In short the remedy

is exorcism rather than physic. Now the enchantment under which the

patient is supposed to be labouring is often, though not always,

ascribed to the malignant arts of the spirits of the dead, or the _mõs_,

as the natives of Tumleo call them. In such a case the ghosts are

thought to be clinging to the body of the sufferer, and the object of

the medical treatment is to detach them from him and send them far away.

With this kindly intention some men will go into the forest and collect

a number of herbs, including a kind of peppermint. These are tied into

one or more bundles according to the number of the patients and then

taken to the men's clubhouse (_alol_), where they are heated over a

fire. Then the patient is brought, and two men strike him lightly with

the packet of herbs on his body and legs, while they utter an

incantation, inviting the ancestral spirits who are plaguing him to

leave his body and go away, in order that he may be made whole. One such

incantation, freely translated, runs thus: "Spirit of the

great-grandfather, of the father, come out! We give thee coco-nuts,

sago-porridge, fish. Go away (from the sick man). Let him be well. Do no

harm here and there. Tell the people of Leming (O spirit) to give us

tobacco. When the waves are still, we push off from the land, sailing

northward (to Tumleo). It is the time of the north-west wind (when the

surf is heavy). May the billows calm down in the south, O in the south,

on the coast of Leming, that we may sail to the south, to Leming! Out

there may the sea be calm, that we may push off from the land for home!"

In this incantation a prayer to the spirit of the dead to relax his hold

on the sufferer appears to be curiously combined with a prayer or spell

to calm the sea when the people sail across to the coast of Leming to

fetch a cargo of tobacco. When the incantation has been recited and the

patient stroked with the bundle of herbs, one of his ears and both his

arm-pits are moistened with a blood-red spittle produced by the chewing

of betel-nut, pepper, and lime. Then they take hold of his fingers and

make each of them crack, one after the other, while they recite some of

the words of the preceding incantation. Next three men take each of them

a branch of the _volju_ tree, bend it into a bow, and stroke the sick

man from head to foot, while they recite another incantation, in which

they command the spirit to let the sick man alone and to go away into

the water or the mud. Often when a man is seriously ill he will remove

from his own house to the house of a relation or friend, hoping that the

spirit who has been tormenting him will not be able to discover him at

his new address.[372]

[Sidenote: Burial and mourning customs in Tumleo.]

If despite of all these precautions the patient should die, he or she is

placed in a wooden coffin and buried with little delay in a grave, which

is dug either in the house or close beside it. The body is smeared all

over with clay and decked with many rings or ornaments, most of which,

however, are removed in a spirit of economy before the lid of the coffin

is shut down. Sometimes arrows, sometimes a rudder, sometimes the bones

of dead relations are buried with the corpse in the grave. When the

grave is dug outside of the house, a small hut is erected over it, and a

fire is kept burning on it for a time. In the house of mourning the

wife, sister, or other female relative of the deceased must remain

strictly secluded for a period which varies from a few weeks to three

months. In token of mourning the widow's body is smeared with clay, and

from time to time she is heard to chant a dirge in a whining, melancholy

tone. This seclusion lasts so long as the ghost is supposed to be still

on his way to the other world. When he has reached his destination, the

fire is suffered to die down on the grave, and his widow or other female

relative is free to quit the house and resume her ordinary occupations.

Through her long seclusion in the shade her swarthy complexion assumes a

lighter tint, but it soon deepens again when she is exposed once more to

the strong tropical sunshine.[373]

[Sidenote: Beliefs of the Tumleo people as to the fate of the human soul

after death.]

The people of Tumleo firmly believe in the existence of the human soul

after death, though their notions of the disembodied soul or _mõs_, as

they call it, are vague. They think that on its departure from the body

the soul goes to a place deep under ground, where there is a great

water. Over that water every soul must pass on a ladder to reach the

abode of bliss. The ladder is in the keeping of a spirit called _Su asin

tjakin_ or "the Great Evil," who takes toll of the ghosts before he lets

them use his ladder. Hence an ear-ring and a bracelet are deposited with

every corpse in the grave in order that the dead man may have

wherewithal to pay the toll to the spirit at the great water. When the

ghost arrives at the place of passage and begs for the use of the

ladder, the spirit asks him, "Shall I get my bracelet if I let you

pass?" If he receives it and happens to be in a good humour, he will let

the ghost scramble across the ladder to the further shore. But woe to

the stingy ghost, who should try to sneak across the ladder without

paying toll. The ghostly tollkeeper detects the fraud in an instant and

roars out, "So you would cheat me of my dues? You shall pay for that."

So saying he tips the ladder up, and down falls the ghost plump into the

deep water and is drowned. But the honest ghost, who has paid his way

like a man and arrived on the further shore, is met by two other ghosts

who ferry him in a canoe across to Sisano, which is a place on the

mainland a good many miles to the north of Tumleo. A great river flows

there and in the river are three cities of the dead, in one of which the

newly arrived ghost takes up his abode. Then it is that the fire on his

grave is allowed to go out and his widow may mingle with her fellows

again. However, the ghosts are not strictly confined to the spirit-land.

They can come back to earth and roam about working good or evil for the

living and especially for their friends and relations.[374]

[Sidenote: Monuments to the dead in Tumleo. Disinterment of the bones.]

It is perhaps this belief not only in the existence but in the return of

the spirits of the dead which induces the survivors to erect monuments

or memorials to them. In Tumleo these monuments consist for the most

part of young trees, which are cut down, stripped of their leaves, and

set up in the ground beside the house of the deceased. The branches of

such a memorial tree are hung with fruits, coco-nuts, loin-cloths, pots,

and personal ornaments, all of which we may suppose are intended for the

comfort and convenience of the ghost when he returns from deadland to

pay his friends a visit.[375] But the remains of the dead are not

allowed to rest quietly in the grave for ever. After two or three years

they are dug up with much ceremony at the point of noon, when the sun is

high overhead. The skull of the deceased, if he was a man, is then

deposited, as we saw, with one of the thigh bones in the men's

clubhouse, while of the remaining bones some are kept by the relations

and the others thrown away in a charnel-house. Among the relics which

the relations preserve are the lower arm bones, the shoulder-blades, the

ribs, and the vertebra. The vertebra is often fastened to a bracelet; a

couple of ribs are converted into a necklace; and the shoulder-blades

are used to decorate baskets. The lower arm bones are generally strung

on a cord, which is worn on solemn occasions round the neck so that the

bones hang down behind. They are especially worn thus in war, and they

are made use of also when their owner desires to obtain a favourable

wind for a voyage. No doubt, though this is not expressly affirmed, the

spirit of the departed is supposed to remain attached in some fashion to

his bones and so to help the possessor of these relics in time of need.

When the bones have been dug up and disposed of with all due ceremony,

several men who were friends or relations of the deceased must keep

watch and ward for some days in the men's clubhouse, where his grinning

skull now stands amid similar trophies of mortality on a table or shelf.

They may not quit the building except in case of necessity, and they

must always speak in a whisper for fear of disturbing the ghost, who is

very naturally lurking in the neighbourhood of his skull. However, in

spite of these restrictions the watchers enjoy themselves; for baskets

of sago and fish are provided abundantly for their consumption, and if

their tongues are idle their jaws are very busy.[376]

[Sidenote: Propitiation of the souls of the dead and other spirits.]

The people think that if they stand on a good footing with the souls of

the departed and with other spirits, these powerful beings will bring

them good luck in trade and on their voyages. Now the time when trade is

lively and the calm sea is dotted with canoes plying from island to

island or from island to mainland, is the season when the gentle

south-east monsoon is blowing. On the other hand, when the waves run

high under the blast of the strong north-west monsoon, the sea is almost

deserted and the people stay at home;[377] the season is to these

tropical islanders what winter is to the inhabitants of northern

latitudes. Accordingly it is when the wind is shifting round from the

stormy north-west to the balmy south-east that the natives set

themselves particularly to win the favour of ghosts and spirits, and

this they do by repairing the temples and clubhouses in which the

spirits and ghosts are believed to dwell, and by cleaning and tidying up

the open spaces around them. These repairs are the occasion of a

festival accompanied by dances and games. Early in the morning of the

festive day the shrill notes of the flutes and the hollow rub-a-dub of

the drums are heard to proceed from the interior of the temple,

proclaiming the arrival of the guardian spirit and his desire to partake

of fish and sago. So the men assemble and the feast is held in the

evening. Festivals are also held both in the temples and in the men's

clubhouses on the occasion of a successful hunt or fishing. Out of

gratitude for the help vouchsafed them by the ancestral spirits, the

hunters or fishers bring the larger game or fish to the temples or

clubhouses and eat them there; and then hang up some parts of the

animals or fish, such as the skeletons, the jawbones of pigs, or the

shells of turtles, in the clubhouses as a further mark of homage to the

spirits of the dead.[378]

[Sidenote: Guardian spirits (_tapum_) in Tumleo.]

So far as appears, the spirits who dwell in the temples are not supposed

to be ancestors. Father Erdweg describes them as guardian spirits or

goddesses, for they are all of the female sex. Every village has several

of them; indeed in the village of Sapi almost every family has its own

guardian spirit. The name for these guardian spirits is _tapum_, which

seems to be clearly connected with the now familiar word _tapu_ or

taboo, in the sense of sacred, which is universally understood in the

islands of the Pacific. On the whole the _tapum_ are kindly and

beneficent spirits, who bring good luck to such as honour them. A hunter

or a fisherman ascribes his success in the chase or in fishing to the

protection of his guardian spirit; and when he is away from home trading

for sago and other necessaries of life, it is his guardian spirit who

gives him favour in the eyes of the foreigners with whom he is dealing.

Curiously enough, though these guardian spirits are all female, they

have no liking for women and children. Indeed, no woman or child may set

foot in a temple, or even loiter in the open space in front of it. And

at the chief festivals, when the temples are being repaired, all the

women and children must quit the village till the evening shadows have

fallen and the banquet of their husbands, fathers, and brothers at the

temple is over.[379]

On the whole, then, we conclude that a belief in the continued existence

of the spirits of the dead, and in their power to help or harm their

descendants, plays a considerable part in the life of the Papuans of

Tumleo. Whether the guardian spirits or goddesses, who are worshipped in

the temples, were originally conceived as ancestral spirits or not, must

be left an open question for the present.

[Sidenote: The Monumbo of Potsdam Harbour.]

Passing eastward from Tumleo along the northern coast of German New

Guinea we come to Monumbo or Potsdam Harbour, situated about the 145th

degree of East Longitude. The Monumbo are a Papuan tribe numbering about

four hundred souls, who inhabit twelve small villages close to the

seashore. Their territory is a narrow but fertile strip of country, well

watered and covered with luxuriant vegetation, lying between the sea and

a range of hills. The bay is sheltered by an island from the open sea,

and the natives can paddle their canoes on its calm water in almost any

weather. The villages, embowered on the landward side in groves of trees

of many useful sorts and screened in front by rows of stately coco-nut

palms, are composed of large houses solidly built of timber and are kept

very clean and tidy. The Monumbo are a strongly-built people, of the

average European height, with what is described as a remarkably Semitic

type of features. The men wear their hair plaited about a long tube,

decorated with shells and dogs' teeth, which sticks out stiffly from the

head. The women wear their hair in a sort of mop, composed of countless

plaits, which hang down in tangle. In disposition the Monumbo are

cheerful and contented, proud of themselves and their country; they

think they are the cleverest and most fortunate people on earth, and

look down with pity and contempt on Europeans. According to them the

business of the foreign settlers in their country is folly, and the

teaching of the missionaries is nonsense. They subsist by agriculture,

hunting, and fishing. Their well-kept plantations occupy the level

ground and in some places extend up the hill-sides. Among the plants

which they cultivate are taro, yams, sweet potatoes, bananas, various

kinds of vegetables, and sugar-cane. Among their fruit-trees are the

sago-palm, the coco-nut palm, and the bread-fruit tree. They make use

both of earthenware and of wooden vessels. Their dances, especially

their masked dances, which are celebrated at intervals of four or five

years, have excited the warm admiration of the despised European.[380]

[Sidenote: Beliefs of the Monumbo concerning the spirits of the dead.

Dread of ghosts.]

With regard to their religion and morality I will quote the evidence of

a Catholic missionary who has laboured among them. "The Monumbo are

acquainted with no Supreme Being, no moral good or evil, no rewards, no

place of punishment or joy after death, no permanent immortality....

When people die, their souls go to the land of spirits, a place where

they dwell without work or suffering, but which they can also quit.

Betel-chewing, smoking, dancing, sleeping, all the occupations that they

loved on earth, are continued without interruption in the other world.

They converse with men in dreams, but play them many a shabby trick,

take possession of them and even, it may be, kill them. Yet they also

help men in all manner of ways in war and the chase. Men invoke them,

pray to them, make statues in their memory, which are called _dva_

(plural _dvaka_), and bring them offerings of food, in order to obtain

their assistance. But if the spirits of the dead do not help, they are

rated in the plainest language. Death makes no great separation. The

living converse with the dead very much as they converse with each

other. Time alone brings with it a gradual oblivion of the departed.

Falling stars and lightning are nothing but the souls of the dead, who

stick dry banana leaves in their girdles, set them on fire, and then fly

through the air. At last when the souls are old they die, but are not

annihilated, for they are changed into animals and plants. Such animals

are, for example, the white ants and a rare kind of wild pig, which is

said not to allow itself to be killed. Such a tree, for example, is the

_barimbar_. That, apparently, is the whole religion of the Monumbo. Yet

they are ghost-seers of the most arrant sort. An anxious superstitious

fear pursues them at every step. Superstitious views are the motives

that determine almost everything that they do or leave undone."[381]

Their dread of ghosts is displayed in their custom of doing no work in

the plantations for three days after a death, lest the ghost, touched to

the quick by their heartless indifference, should send wild boars to

ravage the plantations. And when a man has slain an enemy in war, he has

to remain a long time secluded in the men's clubhouse, touching nobody,

not even his wife and children, while the villagers celebrate his

victory with song and dance. He is believed to be in a state of

ceremonial impurity (_bolobolo_) such that, if he were to touch his wife

and children, they would be covered with sores. At the end of his

seclusion he is purified by washings and other purgations and is clean

once more.[382] The reason of this uncleanness of a victorious warrior

is not mentioned, but analogy makes it nearly certain that it is a dread

of the vengeful ghost of the man whom he has slain. A similar fear

probably underlies the rule that a widower must abstain from certain

foods, such as fish and sauces, and from bathing for a certain time

after the death of his wife.[383]

[Sidenote: The Tamos of Astrolabe Bay. Mistake of attempting to combine

descriptive with comparative anthropology.]

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