workyard at Arbroath, and was computed to have drawn the materials
of the lighthouse, extending to upwards of two thousand tons in its
finished state, three or four times--in removing the blocks of stone
from the ship to the workyard, again to the platform upon which each
course was temporarily built, from the workyard to where they were
shipped for the Rock, besides occasional movements to and from the
hands of the stonecutters. Deciding that “Bassey” and his driver
should have the honour of participating in the closing scene of the
undertaking, they were accordingly transported by sea to Leith.
In the course of their passage in the _Smeaton_, the vessel narrowly
escaped shipwreck. Under orders to call at the Rock for lumber, they
had apparently lost their bearings through fog; for, suddenly startled
by the sound of the smith’s hammer and anvil, they had just time to put
the ship about and escape running full tilt on the north-west portion
of the Rock, which, from this incident, still bears the name of “James
Craw’s Horse.”
On the completion of operations at the Rock, the horse “Bassey,”
failing somewhat from age, was pensioned off by the Commissioners,
and allowed to roam at liberty on the island of Inchkeith till
his death in 1813. “The fame of this animal’s labours,” writes Mr
Stevenson, “together with his strength and excellent proportions as a
draught-horse, having attracted the attention of Dr John Barclay, that
eminent anatomist procured the bones and set them up in his museum.
This valuable collection, it is understood, is to be bequeathed to the
College of Surgeons of Edinburgh; so that the bones of the Bell Rock
horse” (to use the doctor’s own language) “will be seen and admired
as a useful skeleton and a source of instruction when those of his
employers lie mingled with the dust.”
* * * * *
With the exception of a few days, the weather this month has been
extremely favourable; indeed, for the greater part, summer-like--a
pleasant change from what we have experienced of late. The peculiar
white rubber-like folds of ribbon which have been adhering to the Rock
surface for the past two months, and which we erroneously supposed to
be the ova of some fish, turn out to be the spawn of the slugs I have
already described, and with which the Rock has been freely invested of
late--proof of which several have been seen in the act of extrusion.
These shell-less molluscs have been much in evidence this season; and
representatives of three distinct families are to be met with, namely,
the Onchidoridæ, Tritoniidæ, and Eolididæ. Cannibals, they attack
their own species without compunction, and devour each other’s spawn.
Darwin computed that some “ribbons” contained as many as six hundred
thousand eggs. The acorn barnacles which have escaped the voracity of
the white whelks have in some places attained a height of two inches.
On examination, each shelly casement is seen charged with spawn, which,
later on, will be liberated as free swimmers, totally unlike the parent
form, to enjoy a brief period of unrestricted freedom before settling
down on the Rock surface, or, for that matter, any immersed object that
comes handy, and ultimately assuming the adult form. The young swimmer,
feeling itself gradually becoming invested with a shelly covering,
casts about for a suitable site to pass the remainder of its existence.
Selecting the Rock surface, it attaches itself by its head, the antennæ
become cemented to the surface, the eyes remain in a rudimentary
form, the shelly plates which latterly form the door of its domicile
appear, a few more pairs of legs are developed, and by a series of
frequent moultings (like other crustaceans) arrives at the perfect
state. The bunches of “fingers” which we see this animal protrude and
withdraw when under water are in reality its feet, of which there are
twelve pairs, the rhythmic expansion and contraction of which induce
a current in the water attracting to its mouth the minute objects
upon which it feeds, thus giving rise to the saying that this animal
stands on its head and literally kicks its food into its mouth. In all
other crustacea the sexes are distinct, the barnacles alone having the
peculiarity of being bi-sexual, or having both sexes united in the same
individual. The general tendency throughout nature--the evolution from
a lower to a higher order, from the simple to the complex--appears in
the case of the barnacle to be reversed. Gifted in the initial stage
of its existence with all the functions of a free-swimming animal, and
possessing organs which ultimately become rudimentary, the final phase
in which all power of volition is lost, certainly does not appear one
of progression.
Hermit crabs are at present abundant, and also demonstrate their
wonderful fecundity. Starfishes--principally the five-rayed
variety--are now numerous, and garnish each shallow pool. Sea-urchins,
though never plentiful here, are occasionally met with, some having
been found recently no larger than a pea. On the 20th the advent of
the paidle-fish was announced by a small patch of ova underneath a
projecting ledge of rock, and, on the same date, by a reconnoitring
“cock.” The young of last summer are met with adhering to stones in
the shallow pools; and, contrary to our expectations, though only two
inches long, were found to contain spawn. The spring migratory movement
has sent but few birds our way this year. A few thrushes, blackbirds,
larks, starlings, and a couple of pied wagtails composed our list. By
the middle of the month, the longtailed ducks had gone north to nest,
and but four pairs of eiders now remain.
_APRIL 1904._
A perusal of Stevenson’s “Bell Rock Lighthouse” reveals many
interesting episodes of that period in connection with the undertaking.
The following facts are from this source, and may be of sufficient
general interest to warrant repeating. The facts mentioned have
reference to another providential escape from serious disaster recorded
during the earlier stages of the operations. The workmen at this period
had their quarters on board the lightship, anchored a mile from the
Rock, as the beacon-house, on which they were latterly housed on the
Rock, had not yet been erected. As was customary, whenever the tide
admitted of a footing on the Rock, all hands were landed, and the
boats retained in one of the creeks till the rising tide suspended
operations. On this particular occasion, besides the usual two boats
from the lightship, they were reinforced by an additional boat from the
_Smeaton_, which had arrived from Arbroath with a fresh consignment of
workmen. The wind freshening in the course of the work, the seamen of
the _Smeaton_, fearing for their vessel’s moorings, left the Rock in
their own boat with the intention of taking some extra precautions,
and returning. Scarcely had they boarded her, however, when, to Mr
Stevenson’s consternation, she was seen to break adrift and drive
helplessly away before the wind. The danger of the situation at once
flashed through his mind. Thirty-two men--three boat-loads--on a rock
which would shortly be fathoms under water, with only two boats at
their disposal! What was to be done? The workmen, engrossed in their
labours, had failed to notice the departure of the boat, and were as
yet ignorant of their dangerous position. The _Smeaton_, now far to
leeward, was seen to have made sail, and making every effort to beat
up to the Rock, but with the wind still freshening and the flood tide
dead against her, it was utterly hopeless to expect any assistance
in that direction. Save the deserted lightship no other sail was in
sight. Taking the landing-master cautiously aside, to avoid alarming
the men, he explained their dangerous situation. After consultation, it
was decided that everything of weight should be abandoned, the men to
strip their upper clothing, the two boats to be manned to their utmost
capacity, and the remainder of the men to support themselves in the
water by clinging to the gunwales. By this means they hoped to drift
down on the _Smeaton_, a perilous journey under such circumstances,
even in quiet weather, but in the now disturbed state of the sea, a
forlorn hope. The workings being now awash with the flowing tide--the
usual signal for ceasing work--the workmen were in the act of retiring
to the boats to don their shoes and stockings when they noticed the
absence of the boat, and realised their danger. On attempting to
address them with his proposal, Mr Stevenson found his mouth so parched
that he was totally unable to articulate a single word. Stooping to
moisten his lips with sea water, he was suddenly startled by the
gladsome shout of “A boat! A boat!” and looking around, there, sure
enough, a large boat was seen through the haze making straight for the
Rock. This opportune arrival proved to be James Spink, the Bell Rock
pilot, employed in carrying letters between Arbroath and the Rock. For
his services on this occasion it is gratifying to learn that in after
years Spink was in receipt of a pension from the Board, and permitted
to wear the uniform and badge of the Lighthouse Service.
Paidle-fish are now fairly numerous, their nests, with attendant
cocks, being met with on every hand. While observing one of these
nests the other day, at low water, I had an interesting experience of
the necessity for the surveillance exercised by the cock. Stretched
along the rock, my face close to the surface of the pool, I had
an excellent view of the nest and its guardian, two feet below.
Speculating as to the reason for so close attendance on the ova--his
nose being thrust into an orifice in the mass, his mouth opening and
shutting energetically, evidently forcing a stream of water through
the opening--I carelessly dropped a few whelks on his back. This mild
form of bombardment did not in the slightest disconcert him; for,
though they struck and rolled off on either side, he appeared to
take no notice of them. Suddenly, a white whelk (not one of those I
had dropped) made its appearance on the outer margin of the ova, and
settled down with the apparent intention of dining. This impertinence,
however, was not to be tolerated; for, with a swirling rush that
plainly betokened anger, the red-coated sentry seized the offender
in his teeth--and here follows the surprising part of it. Instead of
dropping the whelk to the bottom there and then, as I expected, he
mounted rapidly through the intervening two feet of water, and when
near the surface, to my astonishment, spat the whelk almost into my
face! That his intention was retaliatory I do not presume to say, but
the action certainly appeared an intelligent attempt to “return fire.”
Since then, I have repeatedly seen them remove predatory starfishes and
whelks in a somewhat similar manner.
The wheat-like ova of the white whelks is also largely in evidence this
month, though somewhat later than last year. Exposed at every fall of
the tide, it appears to require no attention, each capsule, pendant or
upright, firmly adhering to the Rock surface by means of its flattened
foot-stalk. The whelks themselves appear in every conceivable corner
where food is to be found.
A shallow pit cut into the Rock, measuring two feet by one, and
one foot deep--originally the socket of the central support of the
beacon-house in which the workmen were lodged during the construction
of the lighthouse--serves as a receptacle for anything of interest we
may pick up during our rambles round the rocks. Fitted with a grated
iron cover, it was at one time used for the purpose of soaking salt
junk; but, as every marine organism appeared to consider this a
special provision for their needs, it was ultimately abandoned. At
present a repulsive-looking “poach” or “cobbler,” some ten inches long,
shares this prison with a couple of large star-fishes, an unusually
large hermit crab, and a derelict mass of “paidle” spawn. The spawn
daily decreases in inverse ratio to the “poach’s” liveliness. Apart
from this, however, the spawn shows signs of deterioration, a proof
that the attention of the cock is necessary for its well-being.
On the 17th, the remaining four pairs of eiders took their departure,
and only a few gulls now remain.
Owing to my transference to another station, it now becomes necessary
for me to conclude these random jottings. To the patient reader who has
cared to follow me through these notes I bid farewell. Written without
any pretensions to literary skill or scientific accuracy, they have
nevertheless, in my case, served to enliven many a weary hour in an
isolated calling, and have--may I hope?--proved not altogether void of
interest to the reader.
THE END.
_Edinburgh: George Waterston & Sons, Printers._
Transcriber’s Note:
Words may have multiple spelling variations or inconsistent hyphenation
in the text. These have been left unchanged. Obsolete and alternative
spellings were left unchanged. Misspelled words were corrected.
Words and phrases in italics are surrounded by underscores, _like
this_. Footnotes were renumbered sequentially and were moved to the
end of the chapter. Final stops missing at the end of sentences and
abbreviations were added.