Guarding--Throwing Out--Paring Paper--Soaking off India
Proofs--Mounting very Thin Paper--Splitting
Paper--Inlaying--Flattening Vellum
GUARDING
Guards are slips of thin paper or linen used for strengthening the
fold of leaves that are damaged, or for attaching plates or single
leaves.
Guards should be of good thin paper. That known as Whatman's Banknote
paper answers very well. An easy way to cut guards is shown in fig.
8. Two or three pieces of paper of the height of the required guards
are folded and pinned to the board by the right-hand corners. A series
of points are marked at the head and tail with dividers set to the
width desired for the guards, and with a knife guided by a
straight-edge, cuts joining the points are made right through the
paper, but not extending quite to either end. On a transverse cut
being made near the bottom, the guards are left attached by one end
only (see fig. 9), and can be torn off as wanted. This method prevents
the paper from slipping while it is being cut.
[Illustration: FIG. 8.]
[Illustration: FIG. 9.]
A mount cutter's knife (fig. 10) will be found to be a convenient form
of knife to use for cutting guards.
In using the knife and straight-edge a good deal of pressure should be
put on the straight-edge, and comparatively little on the knife.
[Illustration: FIG. 10.--Mount Cutter's Knife]
To mend the torn back of a pair of leaves, a guard should be selected
a little longer than the height of the pages and well pasted with
white paste (see page 288). If the pair of leaves are not quite
separated, the pasted guard held by its extremities may be simply laid
along the weak place and rubbed down through blotting-paper. If the
leaves are quite apart, it is better to lay the pasted guard on a
piece of glass and put the edges of first one and then the other leaf
on to it and rub down.
On an outside pair of leaves the guard should be inside, so that the
glue may catch any ragged edges; while on the inside pair the guard
should be outside, or it will be found to be troublesome in sewing. In
handling the pasted guards care is needed not to stretch them, or they
may cause the sheet to crinkle as they dry.
[Illustration: FIG. 11.]
Plates must be guarded round the sections next them. When there are a
great many plates the back margin of each, to which a guard will be
attached, must be pared (see fig. 11, A), or the additional thickness
caused by the guards will make the back swell unduly. In guarding
plates a number can be pasted at once if they are laid one on another,
with about an eighth of an inch of the back of each exposed, the top
of the pile being protected by a folded piece of waste paper (see fig.
12). To paste, the brush is brought from the top to the bottom of the
pile only, and not the other way, or paste will get between the plates
and soil them. Guards should usually be attached to the backs of
plates, and should be wide enough to turn up round the adjoining
section, so that they may be sewn through. Should a plate come in the
middle of a section, the guard is best turned back and slightly pasted
to the inside of the sheet and then sewn through in the ordinary way.
[Illustration: FIG. 12.]
If plates are very thick, they must be hinged, as shown at fig. 11, B.
This is done by cutting a strip of about a quarter of an inch off the
back of the plate, and guarding with a wide guard of linen, leaving a
small space between the plate and the piece cut off to form a hinge.
It will save some swelling if the plate is pared and a piece of
thinner paper substituted for the piece cut off (see fig. 11, C). If
the plates are of cardboard, they should be guarded on both sides with
linen, and may even need a second joint.
A book that consists entirely of plates or single leaves must be made
up into sections with guards, and sewn as usual. In books in which
there are a great many plates, it is often found that two plates
either come together in the centre of a section, or come at opposite
sides of the same pair of leaves. Such plates should be guarded
together and treated as folded sheets (see fig. 13).
[Illustration: FIG. 13.]
In order to be sure that the pages of a book to be guarded throughout
will come in their proper order, it is well to make a plan of the
sections as follows, and to check each pair of leaves by it, as they
are guarded:--
Thus, if the book is to be made up into sections of eight leaves, the
pairs of leaves to be guarded together can be seen at once if the
number of the pages are written out--
1, 3, 5, 7,--9, 11, 13, 15.
First the inside pair, 7 and 9, are guarded together with the guard
outside, then the next pair, 5 and 11, then 3 and 13, and then the
outside pair, 1 and 15, which should have the guard outside. A plan
for the whole book would be more conveniently written thus--
1-15 17-31 33-47
3-13 19-29 35-45
5-11 21-27 37-43
7-9 23-25 39-41, and so on.
To arrange a book of single leaves for guarding, it is convenient to
take as many leaves as you intend to go to a section, and opening them
in the centre, take a pair at a time as they come.
The number of leaves it is advisable to put into a section will depend
on the thickness of the paper and the size and thickness of the book.
If the paper is thick, and the backs of the leaves have been pared,
four leaves to a section will be found to answer. But if the paper is
thin, and does not allow of much paring, it is better to have a larger
section, in order to have as little thread in the back as possible.
The sheets of any guarded book should be pressed before sewing, in
order to reduce the swelling of the back caused by the guards.
THROWING OUT
[Illustration: FIG. 14.]
Maps or diagrams that are frequently referred to in the text of a
book, should be "thrown out" on a guard as wide as the sheet of the
book. Such maps, &c., should be placed at the end, so that they may
lie open for reference while the book is being read (see fig. 14).
Large folded maps or diagrams should be mounted on linen. To do this
take a piece of jaconet and pin it out flat on the board, then evenly
paste the back of the map with thin paste in which there are no lumps,
and lay it on the linen, rub down through blotting-paper, and leave to
dry. Unless the pasting is done evenly the marks of the paste-brush
will show through the linen. If a folded map is printed on very thick
paper each fold must be cut up, and the separate pieces mounted on the
linen, with a slight space between them to form a flexible joint.
[Illustration: FIG. 15.]
A folded map must have in the back of the book sufficient guards to
equal it in thickness at its thickest part when folded, or the book
will not shut properly (see fig. 15).
PARING PAPER
For paring the edge of paper for mending or guarding, take a very
sharp knife, and holding the blade at right angles to the
covering-board, draw the edge once or twice along it from left to
right. This should turn up enough of the edge to form a "burr," which
causes the knife to cut while being held almost flat on the paper. The
plate or paper should be laid face downwards on the glass with the
edge to be pared away from the workman, the knife held in the right
hand, with the burr downwards. The angle at which to hold the knife
will depend on its shape and on the thickness and character of the
paper to be pared, and can only be learned by practice. If the knife
is in order, and is held at the proper angle, the shaving removed from
a straight edge of paper should come off in a long spiral. If the
knife is not in proper order, the paper may be badly jagged or
creased.
SOAKING OFF INDIA PROOFS
Place a piece of well-sized paper in a pan of warm water, then lay the
mounted India proof, face downwards, upon it and leave it to soak
until the proof floats off. Then carefully take out the old mount, and
the India proof can be readily removed from the water on the under
paper, and dried between sheets of blotting-paper.
MOUNTING VERY THIN PAPER
Very thin paper, such as that of some "India" proofs, may be safely
mounted as follows:--The mount, ready for use, is laid on a pad of
blotting-paper. The thin paper to be mounted is laid face downwards on
a piece of glass and very carefully pasted with thin, white paste. Any
paste on the glass beyond the edges of the paper is carefully wiped
off with a clean cloth. The glass may then be turned over, and the
pasted plate laid on the mount, its exact position being seen through
the glass.
SPLITTING PAPER
It is sometimes desirable to split pieces of paper when the matter on
one side only is needed, or when the matter printed on each side is to
be used in different places. The paper to be split should be well
pasted on both sides with a thickish paste, and fine linen or jaconet
placed on each side. It is then nipped in the press to make the linen
stick all over, and left to dry.
If the two pieces of jaconet are carefully pulled apart when dry, half
the paper should be attached to each, unless at any point the paste
has failed to stick, when the paper will tear. The jaconet and paper
attached must be put into warm water until the split paper floats off.
INLAYING LEAVES OR PLATES
[Illustration: FIG. 16.]
When a small plate or leaf has to be inserted into a larger book, it
is best to "inlay it"; that is to say, the plate or leaf is let into a
sheet of paper the size of the page of the book. To do this, a piece
of paper as thick as the plate to be inlaid, or a little thicker, is
selected, and on this is laid the plate, which should have been
previously squared, and the positions of the corners marked with a
folder. A point is made about an eighth of an inch inside each corner
mark, and the paper within these points is cut out (see fig. 16). This
leaves a frame of paper, the inner edges of which will slightly
overlap the edges of the plate. The under edge of the plate, and the
upper edge of the mount, should then be pared and pasted, and the
plate laid in its place (with the corners corresponding to the folder
marks). If the edges have been properly pared, the thickness where
they overlap should not exceed the thickness of the frame paper. If an
irregular fragment is to be inlaid, it is done in the same way, except
that the entire outline is traced on the new paper with a folder, and
the paper cut away, allowing one eighth of an inch inside the indented
line.
FLATTENING VELLUM
The leaves of a vellum book that have become cockled from damp or
other causes may be flattened by damping them, pulling them out
straight, and allowing them to dry under pressure. To do this take the
book to pieces, clean out any dirt there may be in the folds of the
leaves, and spread out each pair of leaves as flatly as possible.
Damp some white blotting-paper by interleaving it with common white
paper that has been wetted with a sponge. One sheet of wet paper to
two of blotting-paper will be enough. The pile of blotting-paper and
wet paper is put in the press and left for an hour or two under
pressure, then taken out and the common paper removed.
The blotting-paper should now be slightly and evenly damp. To flatten
the vellum the open pairs of leaves are interleaved with the slightly
damp blotting-paper, and are left for an hour under the weight of a
pressing-board. After this time the vellum will have become quite
soft, and can with care be flattened out and lightly pressed between
the blotting-paper, and left for a night. The next day the vellum
leaves should be looked at to see that they lie quite flat, and the
blotting-paper changed for some that is dry. The vellum must remain
under pressure until it is quite dry, or it will cockle up worse than
ever when exposed to the air. The blotting-paper should be changed
every day or two. The length of time that vellum leaves take to dry
will vary with the state of the atmosphere, and the thickness of the
vellum, from one to six weeks.
Almost any manuscript or printed book on vellum can be successfully
flattened in this way; miniatures should have pieces of waxed paper
laid over them to prevent the chance of any of the fibres of the
blotting-paper sticking. The pressure must not be great; only enough
is needed to keep the vellum flat as it dries.
This process of flattening, although so simple, requires the utmost
care. If the blotting-paper is used too damp, a manuscript may be
ruined; and if not damp enough, the pressing will have no effect.