CHAPTER XIII.

The deacon--A lost shirt--Grossa island--The Quarnero--Pola-Istrian

coast--Trieste--Venetian steamer--Venice--Russian artist--Il

Fanatico--Rome--St. Peter’s--High mass--Don Miguel--Congregation--

Roman monarchy--Gregory XVI.--The Vatican hill--Gardens of Nero--The

elevation--Christian triumph.

In one respect the Doctor was right. He assured us that the water-spout

predicted stormy weather; for in a few hours after, the gale did come

on, sure enough, and continued to blow the whole evening from the

south-east. We had only a single sail out--the parroquete, as the

Austrian seamen called it--the second largest sail of the vessel, which

about six o’clock was shivered into mere shreds. At the moment it was

thus shattered, the _Vigilante_ was almost on her side; and, to my

inexperience, it seemed that if the sail had not thus yielded to the

sudden burst of the tempest, she would have been blown over. The damage

was speedily repaired, as all hands were on-board, and at ten o’clock

the storm was suddenly hushed, like a passionate child that has cried

itself to sleep. The night was clear and tranquil.

♦ THE DEACON ♦

It was agreed amongst the sailors that they had never made so long and

so disagreeable a passage before from Corfu to Trieste, though they

had been for some two or three years on that station. They, one and

all, imputed this misfortune to the presence of the deacon, whom they

looked upon as a harbinger of evil, and as such, treated him with very

little ceremony on all occasions. Numberless were the quarrels which

the captain had to compose between this man and the sailors; he talked

to them in his voluble French, which they did not understand, and which

for that reason the more provoked them. He allowed no rudeness to go

unrepelled, and even became engaged more than once in regular combat

for his bed, or his pillow, or his mug, or his shoes, or something or

another of which they attempted to deprive him, in order to pick a

quarrel with his reverence. The slightest encouragement on our part

would have been accepted by them as a sufficient warrant on theirs to

throw him into the sea!

♦ A LOST SHIRT ♦

Whatever was the state of the weather, the deacon was sure to be

employed, when not eating or sleeping, in one or two ways; either he

was writing his journal, which I observed he persevered in with great

industry, or he was washing his only shirt in sea-water, which he then

hung on the cordage of the sails to dry. It so happened that the said

shirt was blanching in the wind during the late gale; and that just at

the moment the parroquete was torn into tatters, the shirt was seen

like a witch riding on the element, filled in a balloon shape, and

borne off to a watery grave. The sailors absolutely cheered it on its

departure, and exclaimed, that as the deacon was thus blown overboard

in effigy, we should have no more bad weather! The sudden lulling

of the tempest satisfied them soon after that their prediction was

verified, and they became more complaisant towards the original, who

was, however, by no means reconciled to the loss he had sustained, and

imputed it to their knavery.

December 10.--In the morning we found ourselves opposite the long and

lofty island of Grossa, whose high cliffs sheltered us in a great

measure from a stiff breeze which blew from the north-east. The

immediate neighbourhood of this island affords what the sailors call

a port with the sail up: that is to say, the waters are too deep for

anchorage, but a vessel may ride up and down, under the protection of

its mountains, when the north and east winds blow too strongly. We had

good reason to deem ourselves fortunate in having arrived within its

protecting influence, as our mainsail was also opening in some of its

seams; and the sea in the distance, towards the Italian coast, was one

vast sheet of foam. We accordingly tacked up and down before the island

the whole day.

♦ GROSSA ISLAND ♦

December 11.--Still before Grossa; the wind blowing violently from the

north; the air excessively cold; the mountains of our friendly island

mantled in snow. We replaced our mainsail and parroquete.

December 12.--We attempted last night and this morning to venture

out to sea, but found the experiment too dangerous to persevere in

it. Accordingly we continued riding up and down as before in our

island-harbour. A merchant brig joined us, which had been thirty-six

days on her voyage from Alexandria, bound for Trieste.

♦ THE QUARNERO ♦

December 13.--It was of the more importance that we should remain

before Grossa while the wind was in the north-east, and blowing

so violently, as we were then near the little Quarnero, as it is

called--that is to say, the “devourer of men” on a small scale; the

larger Quarnero being somewhat higher up the Adriatic. These are

by no means agreeable sounds to a voyager. The _Adriatic_ mariners

have, however, not at all exaggerated the dangers of the two gulfs in

bestowing upon them these appellations, as a year seldom passes without

witnessing eight or ten wrecks of their ill-managed country boats in

the larger Quarnero, and perhaps half the number in the smaller one.

Both these perilous parts of the Adriatic are gulfs, the first of which

extends from the sea towards the Dalmatian coast, formed by a number

of small islands, from around which a very heavy sea is accumulated in

one body, and rolled with tremendous force by a north-eastern wind. We

ventured from our island about ten o’clock last night, and though the

ship rolled a good deal, we passed the mouth of this gulf in two hours

after, and then proceeded quietly under the protection of the islands,

which are thickly strewed along the Croatian coast, until ten o’clock

this morning, when we entered the mouth of the larger Quarnero, an

extensive gulf formed by the north-western coast of Croatia, and the

eastern coast of Istria.

♦ POLA ♦

The wind was blowing due north, almost a gale, so that we must have

encountered the dangers of the scene in their worst form. The waves

that rolled from the interior of the gulf were large, but regular, and

much rounded, and really the most picturesque undulations I ever saw.

Our vessel, steering direct for the promontory of Istria, in order to

turn the Cape, leaned of course with a north wind on her side, her

edge and part of her bulwarks being under water, and the parroquete

itself occasionally kissing the waves. Two or three angry billows

splashed the deck, but by noon we were round the point without any kind

of difficulty. We then made our way rapidly along the Istrian coast,

towards the Gulf of Trieste.

As we passed near Pola, we had a good opportunity of exploring with

our glasses the remains--indeed I should have said the complete

shell--of the ancient amphitheatre, which still records the extension

of Roman luxury and taste to that region. It seemed to be in excellent

preservation. The towns and villages spread along the coast are

prettily situated. The wind being still in the north when we approached

towards Rovigno, we were obliged to anchor in that harbour at four in

the afternoon. The town is of considerable extent; its magnificent

church forms a striking object from the sea, and it possesses

also a monastery, apparently capable of containing three or four

hundred monks. Behind the town the country rises gradually in green

well-cultivated hills, and then farther away into lofty mountains,

whose ridges were covered with snow. Just as we let go the anchor, the

wind, which had blown so violently during four days, almost without

intermission, was succeeded by a dead calm. The evening was beautiful,

but cold--the moon nearly full.

♦ ISTRIAN COAST ♦

December 14.--Proceeded at seven o’clock in the morning with a light

wind along the coast of Istria, the scenery of which strongly resembles

that of the Campagna of Rome--mountains still in the distance crowned

with snow, and declining gradually in undulations towards the sea. The

green declivities were here and there occupied by villages and hamlets,

and dotted by separate cottages and villas. The picturesque effect of

the scenery received not a little improvement from the circumstance

of the snow on the mountain-tops being occasionally streaked by sandy

ridges which had already absorbed it. The sun shone the whole day

in an unclouded sky. At noon we beheld the Alps of Friuli and the

Italian coast round the head of the gulf as far as Venice. We made way,

however, very slowly, by tacking, and anchored for the night at Omago.

♦ TRIESTE ♦

December 15.--Passed the point of Salvori--the morning

splendid--vessels tacking about in the gulf of Trieste in all

directions, of all qualities and sizes--the Alps topped with snow--the

waves just agitated enough for a sea picture--Trieste distant about

fifteen miles--the wind still northerly, and scarcely allowing us

to make any advance towards our destination. At noon, finding it

impossible to combat with our enemy, and the evil stars of the deacon,

we anchored at Pirano.

December 16.--We were engaged nearly seven hours in tacking from

Pirano to Trieste, a distance of twelve miles. At length, however, we

reached the harbour at two o’clock in the afternoon; but although we

were entitled to pratique at once, having exhausted the whole of our

quarantine at sea, the officers, it seems, had gone to dinner, and were

not expected to return to business till to-morrow! So we were obliged

to remain on-board. The port was crowded with shipping. An Austrian

brig of war was preparing to sail for America, having on-board a number

of _Polish exiles_. A steam-boat was also in the harbour, named the

_Sophia_, one of those which ply between Trieste and Venice.

December 17.--We obtained pratique at eight o’clock in the morning,

having been thus detained nearly three weeks on the voyage from Corfu

to Trieste. Before we quitted the _Vigilante_, we had the mortification

to see another of the Austrian packets come in from Corfu in three

days, having had a south wind the whole way. But, on the other hand,

the passengers by the latter vessel had still the whole of their

quarantine to perform, and we did not at all envy them their station in

the lazaretto.

Trieste exhibited every appearance of being a highly prosperous port.

Signs of active and increasing commerce were visible in every part

of the town. Many capital houses and extensive magazines have been

recently erected there, and no doubt can be entertained that when

steam-navigation shall become more familiar to the shores of the

Mediterranean, Trieste will rise to a rank equal to that which once

belonged to Genoa. The Hotel Grande, at which we stopped, is as good

as any thing of the kind to be met with in England. The shops and

the markets were abundantly filled with every description of goods,

and fruits and vegetables, and thronged with customers. The sale of

bread seemed principally confined to one street, where country-women

were sitting down by their baskets on each side; the said baskets,

and the pavement all around them, being occupied by cakes and loaves

of remarkably fine bread of their own baking. We gave the officers of

the _Vigilante_ as good a dinner as the Hotel Grande could furnish,

in return for the uniform attentions which they showed us during our

protracted voyage, and the same evening I proceeded on-board the

_Archduke Charles_ steamer bound for Venice.

♦ VENETIAN STEAMER ♦

This vessel is very handsomely fitted up--indeed much more tastefully

than any I had ever seen at home. The principal cabin is splendid,

and the berths all round remarkably convenient. We had nearly fifty

passengers on-board. We did not quit our moorings until near one

o’clock. As soon as the first light of morning came I was on deck,

and found that the wind, having been right in our stern, a sail had

been hoisted, and the spires and towers of Venice were already visible

above the sea. As we advanced towards it rapidly, it would have been

no poetical phraseology to describe Venice as a city rising from the

waters, for that was literally the appearance which it presented. We

entered the harbour at eight o’clock, having performed the voyage of

seventy-two miles in seven hours.

♦ VENICE ♦

The first views of Venice, however, from the sea, were not so imposing

as I had expected; although I beheld it under the gradually increasing

lights of the rising sun, yet as those lights were coming from behind

me, and revealed only the more prominent edifices in front, leaving

the more distant spires and buildings still hidden in the vapours

of the night, the prospect wanted those characters of perspective

and magnitude which had exhibited Constantinople to so much greater

advantage. But when I entered the grand canal, and the sun disclosed

the long lines of palaces and churches to view--above all, when we

approached St. Mark’s, and began to mingle with the gondolas, and

to feel the singular effect which these gloomy-looking caiques and

numerous other boats produced, moving about in all directions through

numberless canals, where they were soon lost to the eye, and never

present to the ear, all the associations of past renown, of chivalry,

power, crime, and the contrasts of visible bankruptcy and meanness with

the gorgeous opulence and pride by which this queen of the seas, at no

very remote period, was raised to pre-eminence, swept through the mind

in rapid succession, soliciting for Venice those heartfelt impulses of

indulgence and compassion, which render it almost impossible ever after

to remember her desolate appearance without the deepest emotion.

I had had no sleep during the night, as our steamer, however beautiful

in its decorations, was very creaky, and the paddles very noisy. But

I forgot all these things, when, after breakfasting at Daniel’s Hotel

Royal, I posted off towards the Place of St. Mark, passed between

the pillars of granite brought from Greece, beheld the Campanile,

the Corinthian horses!--explored St. Mark’s well-known church, and

the ducal palace, its splendid libraries and picture-galleries; its

chambers, once the scenes of the most despotic oligarchical power

ever known to mankind; its prisons and dungeons--its “bridge of

sighs!”--traversed the porticos of the great square, and stood on the

Rialto!

The next day was devoted to the principal churches, where preparations

were already going on for the celebration of the great festival of the

Nativity. Every thing has gone to decay at Venice except its churches,

and these are unquestionably without rivals, even at Rome, St. Peter’s

and St. John Lateran only excepted, and perhaps one or two others. The

paintings, the frescoes, the marble altars, and columns and pilasters,

the mosaiqued floors, the statues, and monuments by which the numerous

sacred edifices are distinguished at Venice, can only be sufficiently

appreciated by the visitor who has ample time to meditate on all their

excellence. To me, before whom they passed as in a panorama, they are

but a dream--a dream indeed full of luminous recollections, to which I

never look back for a moment without wishing myself at Venice again.

The weather was extremely cold; but as the moon was at its maturity,

I nevertheless felt a singular gratification in rambling through the

streets at night, observing the picturesque effects of the lights and

shadows in which the canals, and gondolas moving on them in silence,

the towers of the churches, the palaces and squares, were exhibited.

The finest shadow, I presume, to be seen in the world, is that of

the Campanile, when thrown by the position of the moon quite to the

extremity of the Place of St. Mark.

♦ RUSSIAN ARTIST ♦

The Academy of Painting necessarily occupied the greater part of a day.

I need hardly have noted my ascent of the Campanile, as the summit of

the tower affords one of the finest prospects in existence, including

the lagoons, the islands and seas round Venice, and the Tyrolese

Alps. My three Venetian suns and moons vanished like a moment, and at

midnight on the 20th (December) I found myself in Mestre on my way to

Rome, where I hoped to arrive in time for the Christmas high mass at

St. Peter’s.

Padua, the Enganean hills, Albano, celebrated for its hot baths, the

Adige, and the Po, Ferrara and Bologna, successively led me on to the

Appenines. At Bologna I fortunately procured a seat in the courier’s

carriage, for the “eternal city.” I met with a most interesting

companion in a Russian by birth, who seemed altogether devoted to the

art of painting, in which he had already acquired some celebrity. He

had a touch of “Il Fanatico” about him upon every subject connected

with his profession, which was to me excessively amusing. He talked of

the people of Italy with rapture. The fact was, he had been recently

exhibiting at Bologna a picture of Herculaneum, which had procured

for him the highest eulogies from all quarters, the Italians knowing

scarcely any limits to praise when once they commence the offers of

their incense. He was overflowing with delight, as it was his first

grand work; he had, as he said to me with much _naïveté_, made a name;

his was one of the great names of the day, that would soon be on every

tongue!

♦ IL FANATICO ♦

His usual residence was at Rome, the only part of the world, he

thought, in which a man of taste could live. The climate was to

him inspiration, a sort of Paradise, in which his genius revelled

incessantly. That of Naples was still more exciting--“Indeed, whenever

I visit Naples,” said he, “I become a fool, so ungovernable is the

sense of happiness, the wild joy, the rush of noble thoughts that fill

my soul!”

I could not keep up at all with this man’s torrent of ideas; and

then turning plaintively upon me, he would lament the uninflammable

materials of which all Englishmen, indeed, all northerns, were

composed! They knew not what genius was; they were a very good sort of

people, very rich and well-informed, and all that; but they were too

_civilized_, too frigid; they were so many marble statues in a shop,

compared with the artist who idolized his profession, and followed it

under the skies and amidst the inexhaustible models of the Vatican,

and the teeming associations with which the “genius of the place” was

pregnant.

♦ ROME ♦

We travelled rapidly by the Pesaro road, and as there was as yet

scarcely any snow or ice on the Appenines, they offered no obstruction

to our speed. Early on the morning of the 25th, we arrived within

view of the Sabine hills. St. Peter’s soon after was within our

horizon; and at half-past seven A.M. our horses galloped through the

Porto del Popolo. I was put down at the Hotel d’Allemagne, under the

recommendation of my Russian friend, and at ten o’clock I was among the

crowds of all tongues and nations, ascending the portico of the noblest

temple ever dedicated to the worship of the true God.

♦ ST. PETER’S ♦

I had never experienced in England any thing like the rigours of

cold which I had felt hitherto in Italy. At Rome they were intense.

Nevertheless, when I entered St. Peter’s, I felt as if I had been

suddenly transferred to a genial climate, from which the surrounding

atmosphere had been altogether excluded. I, of course, imputed this

sudden change to the use of artificial means for heating that immense

edifice, as the number of persons already assembled within its

precincts, though really very considerable, seemed so diminutive as

to be altogether incapable of producing by their presence any effect

upon its temperature. But, to my surprise, I afterwards learned that

there was no such thing as a flue or a pipe of any sort used for the

production of artificial warmth in St. Peter’s. The temperature of its

interior, owing to the vastness of the space comprehended beneath its

matchless dome and roof, never varies at any season of the year. Like

the ocean, it is warm in winter, cold in summer, cool in the spring and

the autumn; but these changes are felt only in relation to the external

atmosphere; the atmosphere of the world within, itself partaking of the

attributes of an element in nature, never knows any alteration.

The first thing that struck my eye with singular surprise when I

found myself under the dome of this great temple, was the apparent

insignificance of the human figures congregating towards the high altar

from all the entrances. We seemed a race of pigmies, of children, of

insects, blackening the marbled floor, but scarcely rising in relief

above it. This feeling was humiliating, but it gradually wore off as

the ceremonies of the day commenced, and the occasion on which we were

assembled raised the mind to other objects than those of personal

interest.

♦ HIGH MASS ♦

The Pope was borne to the great altar in his chair of state, attended

by a host of cardinals and bishops, and the representatives and

many members of all the regular orders of the church. The variety,

and elegance, and splendour of ecclesiastical costumes thus brought

together, produced a most imposing effect. The gorgeous vestments

of his Holiness in his jewelled tiara--the mitres and crosiers, and

mantles of the bishops, the red robes of the cardinals, formed a

remarkable contrast with the poor Carmelite’s white garb of flannel,

and his ruder sandal. The Swiss papal guards, in their antique dress,

covered over on the breast and back by the steel cuirass, with a hat

turned up on one side, and decorated by a ruby drooping plume on the

other, reminded one of the days of the crusades; while the newest

fashions of Paris and London, crowding the tribunes in another quarter,

gave a different charm to the scene, substituting (when the eye turned

downward from that airy dome) real beauty for the visions of tradition.

♦ DON MIGUEL ♦

Amongst the remarkable personages who were present at this great

festival, I observed Don Miguel, the ex-usurper of the throne of

Portugal. He was in a tribune on the left hand of the Papal throne,

and appeared to attract very general attention. He was dressed in blue

uniform, decorated with some orders, obtained I know not how, or where,

or when, as there has been scarcely any period in that prince’s life

when he merited, in my judgment, any such distinctions. He looked,

however, extremely well--indeed, I should have added, even a remarkably

handsome man, had his character not been tainted by his proceedings in

the Peninsula. His _moral_ physiognomy detracted not a little from his

external appearance, and his devotion was somewhat too sanctified to be

sincere.

♦ CONGREGATION ♦

The great aisle of the church was lined by soldiers on each side, who

kept a space open in the middle: behind the skreen the sacred edifice

was densely filled by the lower orders of the people of Rome, and I

must say that I never beheld so large a concourse of people conduct

themselves with such perfect propriety. I wish I could bear a similar

testimony to the demeanour of the better-dressed groups, who had the

privilege of the tribunes which were arranged at each side of the

high altar, as well as of the intervening spaces. The greater number

of these groups consisted, I regret to say, of English families, who

seemed to think that they came to “be seen” and to attract notice to

themselves by their loud remarks and their intrusive manners, appearing

to think that St. Peter’s was a theatre, and the sacred solemnity an

opera, at which they were to display their superior taste in music,

and their progress in the French or Italian language. The thought

that they were attending divine service seemed never to occupy them

for an instant. I must add, at the same time, that other foreigners,

and especially the French, rivalled the English in this most improper

conduct.

The high altar, as every body knows, is immediately under the great

dome. The Pope’s throne was erected at the western extremity of the

temple, and thence to the altar the distance was considerable; but it

scarcely appeared so, as benches extended on each side were occupied by

the cardinals and bishops, and other ecclesiastics, who usually attend

on such occasions. His Holiness commenced the mass at the steps of the

altar, after which he returned to his throne and proceeded with the

Introit, the Kyrie Eleison, and that beautiful expression of human joy

and benevolence, “Gloria in excelsis Deo, et in terra pax hominibus

bonæ voluntatis!” “Glory be to God on high, and on earth peace to men

of good will!”

Never did the concluding words of that angelic address to the Deity

seem to me to come more meetly from the lips of man, than they did

at that moment from the successor of St. Peter.--“Quoniam tu solus

sanctus--Tu solus Dominus--Tu solus altissimus!” “For Thou only art

holy--Thou only art the Lord--Thou only art most high.”

♦ ROMAN MONARCHY ♦

Here was a sovereign of a monarchy the most ancient now flourishing

in Europe,--a monarchy seated at Rome--the mistress of the world in

all that relates to intellectual pre-eminence--a kingdom which has

already existed longer than the Roman empire--appealing for mercy to

the Redeemer;--surrounded by many men of the greatest acquirements,

by the highest dignitaries of the church, whose unaffected humility

and devotion outshone their gorgeous vestments--by large masses of the

undoubted descendants of the ancient Roman people--by individuals from

almost every nation under the sun--appealing to “the only Lord,” the

“Most High God,” in his own name and in that of the great assemblage

thus gathered together beneath a dome worthy of the Majesty of Heaven!

It was, indeed, a spectacle which he who once had seen, never can think

of without exulting that the Meek One who, when born, was received in

a manger--whose very name was spat upon where that unearthly pile is

raised, was the God now hailed by the representatives of all nations,

as the “Solus sanctus Dominus, altissimus Jesus Christus!” Glory indeed

be to that God on high!

♦ GREGORY XVI ♦

In tones that touched the heart, Gregory--the sixteenth high

pontiff of his name--forgetting the external splendours by which

he was encompassed--poured forth these acknowledgments, these

supplications--“Qui tollis peccata mundi, suscipe deprecationem

nostram--Qui sedes ad dexteram Patris, miserere nobis!”--“Thou who

taketh away the sins of the world, receive our prayer--Thou who sittest

on the right hand of the Father, _have mercy on us_!”

♦ THE VATICAN HILL ♦

Let it never be forgotten, that the Vatican hill was once the site

of the gardens and circus of Nero--the spot on which that emperor,

to borrow the remarkable words of Tacitus, “inflicted the most

exquisite tortures on those men, who under the _vulgar_ appellation

of christians, were already branded with infamy.” “They derived,”

adds the _philosophic_ historian, “their name and origin from Christ,

who in the reign of Tiberius, had suffered death, by the sentence of

the procurator, Pontius Pilate. For awhile this dire superstition was

checked; but it again burst forth, and not only spread itself over

Judæa, the first seat of this mischievous sect, but was even introduced

into Rome, the common asylum, which receives and protects whatever is

_impure_, whatever is _atrocious_. The confessions of those who were

seized discovered a great multitude of their accomplices, and they

were all _convicted_ for their _hatred of human kind_. They died in

torments, and their torments were embittered by insult and derision.

Some were nailed on crosses; others sewn up in the skins of wild

beasts, and exposed to the fury of dogs; others again, smeared over

with combustible materials, were used as _torches_ to illuminate the

darkness of the night. The _gardens of Nero_ were the scene of this

spectacle, which was accompanied with a horse-race, and honoured with

the presence of the emperor, who mingled with the populace in the dress

and attitude of a charioteer!”

♦ GARDENS OF NERO ♦

What were satin, brocade, cloth of gold, the splendid array of massive

salvers and chalices, the jewelled mitre, and ducal hat, and triple

crown in such a scene, and amidst such associations as these? No; I

envied the supreme pontiff nothing, save the tear that glistened in his

fine intelligent eye, when, remembering where he stood, he poured forth

his gratitude--“Gratias agimus tibi propter magnam gloriam tuam.”--“We

give thee thanks for thy great glory!” The choir took up the anthem,

unaided by the organ--“Laudamus te--benedicimus te--adoramus te”--the

halleluiahs that resound for ever through the abodes of the Divinity!

It was a shout of triumph, filling even that vast concave with its

reverberations.

These passages of the service were followed by the epistle and the

gospel, the credo, and the solemn preparations for the sacrifice. The

host that was offered up was “unspotted;” it was offered to the “living

and true God,” for the transgressions of all who were “present;” for

“all christians of all generations;” “as a most sweet odour for the

salvation of the whole world.” The “sanctifier” was entreated to

bless the “sacrifice” thus “provided for the glory of his name,” and

the angels and archangels, and all the elect were summoned round the

altar, that by their presence and mediation the very atmosphere should

be rendered holy, and the incense sacred, with which the shrine was

perfumed. The pontiff washed his hands “among the innocent,” bowed

down his uncovered head, turning to the immense multitude, called upon

them to pray that the sacrifice might be “acceptable” to the “Father

Almighty,” to “lift up their hearts,” and give thanks to the Lord

God--the God of “Sabbaoth, of whose glory the heavens and the earth

were full.” These appeals were answered by another burst of triumph

from the choir--“Hosanna in excelsis!”

♦ THE ELEVATION ♦

The stillness that followed during the moments while the high priest

consecrated and raised the host for adoration, was awful. The choir was

hushed--no sound throughout that vast prostrate multitude met the ear

save the notes of the higher reeds of the organ, which, floating along

the fretted roof towards the dome above, tended only to unite in one

cherub voice the secret orisons of the whole assembly.

♦ CHRISTIAN TRIUMPH ♦

When the high mass terminated, his holiness was borne in procession

down the great aisle, preceded as before by the clergy, bishops,

cardinals, and the officers of his household. He was crowned in the

tiara. At each side of his elevated chair of state was raised a banner

of snow-white plumes, which are said to be among the most ancient

memorials of the sacred sovereignty. It was fitting that upon the

spot where the blood of christians had flowed, the banners of their

victory should be unfurled on such a day as this; but it was still

more beautiful to observe that he who was thus exalted above the heads

of the people, had no need of a slave to warn him that he was himself

no more than mortal; he dispensed no blessings without striking his

breast silently, preferring to all these outward circumstances of human

pageantry, the self-denial and humility that should ever characterize

the minister of the gospel.

A steam voyage down the Danube, vol. 2 of 2 · 第 13 / 15 章