A CURSORY GLANCE AT THOSE PORTS OF SOUTH AFRICA THAT OCCUPY THE EXTREME
SOUTH OF THE AFRICAN CONTINENT, SOUTH OF SOUTH CENTRAL AFRICA.
South of South Central Africa, which has comprised my field, of
exploration, is the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope, which takes in the
whole of the southern peninsula of the African continent, from the
Orange river to Cape Agulhas, and extends towards the east as far as
Natal. It is divided into the eastern and western provinces and
Griqualand West. Cape Town is the seat of Government and the capital,
and is governed by a High Commissioner and Governor, a Ministry and
Legislative Council, and a House of Assembly, both elected. The
Governor is appointed by the British Government.
The principal ports are Table Bay at Cape Town, False Bay, including
Simon's Town, and the naval station of the colony, Mossel Bay, Algoa Bay
at Port Elizabeth, East London, and a few small bays along the coast.
The principal rivers are the Orange, Caledon, Kraai, Zeekoe, Buffalo,
draining Little Namaqualand, Olifant, Berg rivers draining the district
of Malmesbury, Zout river draining Koeberg and neighbourhood. Easters
river enters False Bay, Londerende river drains part of Swellendam and
Worcester districts, Gawirtz and its tributaries drain the George,
Worcester, and Beaufort districts, and several small streams up to
Zwartkops, that enters the sea a few miles to the north-east of Port
Elizabeth. Following up the coast are Samdays, Bushman, Kowie, Great
Fish river, Kaga, Koonap, Kat, Keiskama, Buffalo, Great Kei, White Kei,
Indwa, Tosmo (which drains the country round Queen's Town and part of
Kaffraria), Bashee, Umtata, Umzimvobo, and Umzimcula; not one of them is
navigable from the great fall they take in their course to the sea, and
they have deep water in them only after heavy rains, which is the case
with all the rivers in this colony.
There are several mountain ranges, viz. Table mountain at the back of
Cape Town, 3500 feet above sea-level. Stormberg, Zwagerskook,
Winterberg, Amatola, and their spurs, and many others of less note.
Some of them are 8000 feet above sea-level. On the eastern border in
Noman's-land is the Drakensberg, that divides this colony from Natal,
having its lofty head 10,000 feet above sea-level, where the grand
scenery is rarely to be equalled in any part of South Africa.
Noman's-land or Griqualand East, principally occupied by the Griqua
tribe who left Camphill ground and took up their residence in that fine
rich country.
Numerous vleis and pans, some extensive, many are dry the greater part
of the year. The largest is Commissioner's pan, in what is called
Bushmanland, some twenty miles in circumference, and contains a crust of
salt on the dry bed, where there is no water in it. There are salt-pans
near Uitenhage, Cradock, and Betheldorp, beside many fresh-water pans of
considerable extent, but they are becoming dryer every year, as also the
fountains: many of them thirty years ago gave out a copious supply, and
at the present time are small streams. Verkeerde vlei, close to the
Karroo Port, water is generally found in it, as also Vogel vlei, no
great distance from the Berg river. Nearly every other vlei may be
termed pans, being so shallow, they are scarcely distinguishable from
the surrounding country; so impregnated is the soil with salt that many
springs and fountains have a brackish taste, and this is the case all
over the southern part of the African continent, which indicates that at
one time it had a close connection with the ocean.
Several mineral springs in the Cape Colony, both hot and cold. A
chalybeate spring at the foot of the Kradoun mountain on the eastern
slope with a temperature of 110 degrees. Hot springs at Montague,
Winterberg, Caledon, Malmesbury, Olifant, and one near Breed river,
which is found to rise to a temperature of 156 degrees.
The mineral wealth of the colony is not known. Copper is found in large
quantities in Little Namaqualand, near the Orange river. Near Port
Elizabeth lead has been found. Iron is largely distributed over many
districts, and coal has of late years been found near Stormberg,
Burghersdorp and other places, and conveyed to the diamond-fields, which
turns out to be of better quality than was at first expected, and lately
gold.
Very fine caves in the Zwarteberge range of mountains, a short distance
from Oudtshoorn village, much resorted to, for their peculiar beautiful
stalactites of limestone formation.
Many extensive forests in the colony, near the town of Clanwilliam,
Outenigera, Zitzikamma; there is also the Adda bush, dense bush along
the Amatola mountains, Kat river, and the Knysna. To the eastward we
find the Kadoun forest, extending nearly eighty miles in length along
the sea, and some fifteen miles in width.
Deep extensive kloofs along the mountain ranges are well-timbered. The
Great Fish river bush is very extensive, and many others along the
Buffalo mountain, Katberg, Chumie, and Boschberg, are densely wooded
with fine timber, principally yellow wood that grow to a great size.
The great Karroo desert is situated more in the western division of the
Cape Colony, lying between the mountains Bokkeveld, Wittebergen, and
Swartebergen. In length it is from Mitchell's Pass in the south nearly
400 miles, extending northwards to the Orange river, and from east to
west over eighty, a most wretched and dried-up country; scarcely a blade
of grass to be seen. The Karroo bush is plentiful, of which the sheep
are very fond--a dreary waste. The main road from Cape Town to Hope
Town and Kimberley passes diagonally through its entire length, through
Mitchell's Pass, a fearful gorge of seven miles, the road cut out of the
solid sandstone rock on the left hand, with perpendicular cliffs, and on
the right a precipice of some three and four hundred feet; the only
safeguard to prevent carriages from falling over are a few large
boulders placed at long distances apart to prevent any vehicle from
going too close to the edge. The scenery along the seven miles of this
pass is grand in the extreme, but it can only be enjoyed when on foot,
when at every few steps a halt must be made to view the bold outline of
this wild and picturesque pass. The railway from Cape Town to Hope Town
avoids this singular formation, consequently the great traffic is
carried round in another direction, more to the east, passing through
Beaufort West and Victoria West, over a flat and barren part of the
great Karroo. The mountain pass at Franschehoek is very fine, also
Baiu's Kloof, both possessing grand scenery.
The principal towns in the colony beside Cape Town, in degree of
importance, are Port Elizabeth, Graham's Town; the capital of the
eastern province is pleasantly situated in a fertile valley. Victoria
East, Ceres, Beaufort West, Hope Town, close to the Orange river,
through which the railway runs to Kimberley diamond-fields. Somerset is
situated at the foot of Boschberg mountain, one of the most picturesque
towns in the colony; Bedford is built at the fort of Kagaberg, in a rich
and valuable part of the country; Cradock, a town situated on the bank
of the Great Fish river. Graaff Reinet is erected on the Sunday's
river, one of the most pleasant towns in the colony, situated in a
mountain region, some of them are the highest in the colony.
Compassberg is over 9200 feet above sea-level. Sneeunbergen is another
prominent mountain range with beautiful scenery, and the town is well
laid out; the streets have oranges and other trees planted along their
sides, that add much to the general appearance of the town. Colesberg
is situated on the main transport road from Port Elizabeth to the
diamond-fields, Kimberley, Orange Free State, and the interior. The
railway from Port Elizabeth runs to Colesberg, from thence passengers
and goods are conveyed by passenger-carts and ox-waggons. [A railroad
now runs through this country to Kimberley.] The town and country are
not very inviting, a vast extent of barren open plains, that slope
towards the Orange river, of which the town is distant some eleven
miles. Richmond, Hanover, and Middleburg are rising towns. Aliwal
North is situated on the Orange river on the main road to the Orange
Free State and also to Kimberley. Burghersdorp is on the Stormberg
river. Albert is another town in this district, and is on the road from
East London to the Free State. King William's Town, Grey Town, and East
London are in the same division; the latter is a rising port, and will
eventually be very important as a sea-port. Queen's Town is situated on
the Indwe river, and has several native locations belonging to the
Tambookie tribe. There are several small villages situated throughout
all these districts. To the east is what is termed British Kaffraria,
in which the port of East London is situated on the Buffalo river. Its
eastern boundary is the Great Kei river, separating it from Kaffirland
proper; the country is picturesque, with lofty and well-wooded hills.
The native population in British Kaffraria are mostly of the Gaika and
Amakosa Kaffirs.
The population of the Cape Colony is various. The western province has
a greater proportion of the Boer element than the English, but in the
eastern province the English predominate. Many Germans have settled in
the colony since the German legion has been disbanded, and form a
considerable portion of the population. French, Swedes, Americans, and
many others from different countries, not forgetting the Chinaman.
Of the natives there are the Hottentot, whose pure breed is nearly
extinct; a few are now living on the banks of St. John's river.
Korannas, who are closely allied to the Hottentot, and are found more to
the north on the Orange river, as also the Bushman. Griquas, a bastard
tribe, descendants of the Dutch and Hottentot women, who have their
separate captains, and live much after the Boer in habits and customs.
In the Cape Town district are many Malay from India; in fact I may say
one-fourth of the population is made up of them. Those races that may
be termed Kaffirs are the Gaika, Gonebi, Amakosa, Slambie (who occupy
lands in British Kaffraria), Amagaleka, Amatembu in the eastern part of
Queen's Town, and the country to the east of this division on to Natal
is Kaffirland proper, known under the name Tambookies.
Railroads have been extensively increased of late years, running through
the country to all parts. One direct from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth,
another direct to Kimberley, Worcester, Graham's Town, King William and
Queen's Town, and many other parts.
The public transport roads are in most cases good, but many that wind
over the steep mountain passes are very bad, and trying to oxen and
mules when they have heavy loads.
Griqualand West forms a portion of the Cape Colony, and is situated on
the north side of the Orange river, and as it has been fully described
in the first part of this work, in consequence of the greater portion of
it being included in South Central Africa, I have merely to state that
Kimberley, Bulfontein, De Beers and De Toitspan, the four large mines,
now form one considerable town, and may be considered the richest of any
in the colony, with a population that is not living in a sleepy hollow,
as the rest of the colony is, but showing some vitality and energy,
which has in a great measure saved the colony from ruin.
The district of Cape Town is very pretty and picturesque, well planted
with firs and other trees. The town is well supplied with fruit of
almost every description and vegetables. Abundance of fish are caught
in the bay.
The climate is mild and healthy; the rainy season commences in the
autumn, about May, and lasts until August. In the summer months it is
rare to have a storm.
Wild animals are becoming very scarce; a few of the large game such as
the elephant and buffalo are preserved in the Addo, Kowie, and
Zitzchkamma forests, and may be occasionally seen going down in troops
of thirty and forty to the sea to have a bath. A few wild beasts;
blesbok and many springbok may now be seen on the plains, and also the
ostrich.
Tigers and tiger-cats are yet plentiful in the kloofs of the mountain
ranges that extend so far through the colony. A few sea-cow, I believe,
are still to be seen in the rivers on the eastern border, beyond East
London.
Between the eastern division of the Cape Colony, that is Kaffraria
proper, and the upper part of the Caledon river, is Basutoland, an
extensive region that joins up to Natal or Drakensberg mountain as its
eastern boundary, the north by the Caledon river and the Orange Free
State, as also a portion of its western boundary. The country is very
mountainous, with deep and thickly wooded kloofs, making the scenery
very lovely. Some of the hills on the Drakensberg side are 9500 feet
above sea-level. The Basutos are a branch of the Bechuana family, of
the Barolong tribe, the same family as Montsioa, who left Basutoland
when young, and occupied the country he now holds on the Molapo river.
The small district of Thaba Nchu belonged to these people, which was
separated from Basutoland by the Free State, and in fact that state
surrounded it; and in consequence of a difference between the two
chiefs, Samuel and Sepinare Moroka (the latter being killed), President
Brand went with a force of Free State burghers and took possession of
the town and territory of Thaba Nchu, and annexed it to that state.
Samuel was the son of the old chief Moroka, the other his nephew. When
Moroka died in 1880, the people were divided as to who should be the
chief. There is no doubt the son had the greatest claim; he was an
educated Kaffir, having spent several years at St. Augustine's College,
Canterbury, and was in every respect a gentleman in behaviour. He is
now a wanderer amongst his tribe.
Thaba Nchu, in 1863, was the largest native town in British South
Africa; the population then was about 9000, with mission houses and
church schools.
It was from this station, in 1837, that the Boers who escaped from the
fight with Moselikatze, joined the Barolongs to drive that chief from
Mosega, and collected a force of 1000 men. Montsioa, the present chief,
held command of part of the expedition, and through the Basuto
assistance, the Boers managed to drive Moselikatze more to the north.
We now see the return they get for this help: their country at Thaba
Nchu taken from them, and Montsioa would have lost his, and himself and
people been murdered, if the British Government had not stepped in at
the eleventh hour and saved them. Basutoland, which is separated from
Thaba Nchu, is now under British protection, and is one of the finest
wheat-growing countries in South Africa, and the natives, if they had
been let alone, would have remained at peace, as they were growing rich
in supplying the diamond-fields with corn. But as their country joins
for such a distance to the Free State, which is occupied by a Boer
population, it is impossible for them to remain in peace for long, for
no tribe, however peacefully inclined the people may be, can with Boers
on their border remain so long, as the latter have many ways of causing
a disturbance, which we have so frequently witnessed, as in the case of
Montsioa and Monkuruan, and the only way to prevent any further trouble
in that country was for the British Government to take it under their
protection. Thaba Bosigo is their principal town and one of their
mission stations.
The Orange Free State occupies the whole of that part of Africa lying
between the Cape Colony, Basutoland, Natal, and the Transvaal.
Bloomfontein is the capital and seat of Government. Mr. Brand is the
President, now Sir John Brand, with a Volksraad to carry on the
Government, and contains within its area about 55,000 square miles.
The principal rivers are the Vaal, Orange, and Caledon, that form the
boundary. The tributaries of the Vaal are the Likwa spruit, the
north-east boundary, Klip, Welge, Rhenoster, Valsch, Vet, Modder, and
Keit.
The principal towns are Harrismith, situated on the north-east portion
of the State, about twenty-five miles north of the Drakensberg range,
the boundary of Natal, and on the main transport roads from Natal to the
diamond-fields, Bloomfontein, Potchefstroom, and Pretoria in the
Transvaal; also Winburg, Cronstad, Boschof, Keckstad, Fauresmith, and
many others of lesser note.
The country is almost one unbroken open grass plain, very scarce of
wood; in some parts there are long stretches of thorn, principally
mimosa bush, but the demand for wood at the diamond-fields is so great
that in a few years there will be scarcely a stick worth cutting, as the
price for a waggon-load of wood varies from ten to thirty pounds. A
large proportion of the population in the various towns are English and
other nationalities.
The climate in winter is cold, but dry. The elevation averages 4500
feet above sea-level, which is the cause. Fortunately the winters are
dry. The rainy season is from November to April. In the summer months
very severe thunderstorms pass over the country. Generally there is a
great want of water previous to the rainy season, and many cattle die
from cold and starvation. Game, twenty years ago, was plentiful, and
also lions; but only a few blesbok, wildebeest, and springbok are to be
met with. Some of the farmers have now begun to preserve them on their
farms, otherwise they would have long since disappeared from the
country. Lions have all been destroyed, but a few wolves are still
left. In parts of the country there are some very pretty localities,
where the woods are preserved, and occasionally may be seen several
hundred baboons visiting those parts for the gum, of which they are very
fond. Many of them are of great size; they may be heard a long
distance, as they pass with their half-human grunts, and it would be
dangerous for any single individual unarmed to come across their path.
It is impossible for any great improvement to be made in the present
state of affairs in the State. The country is too poor, and with very
little chance of its ever becoming richer, with such a lack of energy
for advancing in civilisation as is in the Boer character.
The British colony of Natal is situated on the coast, and joins on to
the Cape Colony at its extreme eastern boundary, called Kaffirland
proper, and Griqualand East as also Basutoland. To the north it joins
up to the Orange Free State, and the Transvaal, the Drakensberg mountain
dividing it from them. On the eastern side, Zululand is separated from
it by the Tugela and the Buffalo rivers. It has a coast-line of 150
miles. The extreme northern point is in 27 degrees 25 minutes South
latitude, down to 31 degrees 10 minutes. The extreme western point is
in 29 degrees 4 minutes, to 31 degrees 30 minutes, being the eastern
point at the mouth of the Tugela, where Zululand joins it.
It is governed by a Lieutenant-Governor, and Executive and Legislative
Councils. The principal town is Maritzburg, situated about fifty miles
inland from the port of Durban. The latter has become an important
town, where all the shipping trade is carried on for the colony and the
interior. On the main transport road to the Free State and Transvaal
are Howick, close to the Umgeni waterfall, Weston, Estcourt, Colenzo,
Ladysmith, and Newcastle. East of Maritzburg is Richmond; north of
Durban is Pinetown, and many others in various parts of the country.
The mountain range on the western boundary, and on its northern, called
the Drakensberg, are the highest of any of the mountains of South
Africa, and it possesses some of the finest scenery in this part of the
world. The loftiest peaks are 10,000 feet above sea-level. The general
elevation of the upper portion of the colony is 4000 feet, sloping
gradually until it reaches the coast-line.
The climate is very healthy, both in summer and winter, and very mild.
The coast region is more tropical from its being less elevated than the
up-country; many extensive sugar plantations are cultivated, and the
Natal sugar has become an important article of commerce. Coffee,
tobacco, indigo, tea, arrowroot, various kinds of spices, all kinds of
garden vegetables, tomato, yams, pineapple, and other tropical fruits.
Cotton is cultivated also.
Maritzburg is the seat of Government, and the principal military
station. Railways are now pushing their way up towards Newcastle. When
I knew the colony in 1860 the principal mode of conveyance was by
bullock-waggons and passenger-carts. The colonists are now going in for
preserving fruits, which are highly prized for their delicious flavour.
There is some very fine building stone, particularly the marble found
near Alfreda. Coal is found at Newcastle and Biggarsberg. Iron is
distributed largely all over the country, and copper has also been
discovered. Limestone has been found on the Bushman river and Upper
Tugela. Slate is also found in several parts, and on the Bushman river,
in which are beautiful specimens of fossil ferns. Altogether, Natal is
a pleasant and healthy colony, but the native population being so large,
now reaching to near 400,000, against a white population of something
under 30,000, is a drawback to the whole of the country being profitably
utilised, as it would otherwise be, if the colour was reversed. And one
does not see what the end is to be, as Natal cannot carry a dense white
population whilst the Kaffirs live and increase nearly as rapidly as the
whites.
Gold will probably settle the question, as the bulk of the Kaffirs
remaining will be crowded out, and a small population of white men will
remain and feed the gold-diggers in the Transvaal and beyond.
The End.