THE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHICAL FEATURES OF THAT REGION, LYING BETWEEN THE
MATABELE AND MASHONA COUNTRY, AND THE INDIAN OCEAN, NOW UNDER THE RULE
OF THE CHIEF UMZELA AND OTHER CHIEFS.
This extensive portion of South Central Africa abuts on the north-east
boundary of the Transvaal, the eastern boundary of the Mashona and
Matabeleland, and the Zambese in the north, up to 29 degrees 50 minutes
East longitude. On the east by the Indian Ocean, and on the south by
the Portuguese possessions at Delagoa Bay. The main watershed passing
through the Mashona country, which divides the Limpopo from the Zambese
river, in 18 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, turns east and separates
the waters flowing into the Zambese, through the Mazoe river, from that
which flows into the Sabia, runs south down to 21 degrees 10 minutes
South latitude, 32 degrees 5 minutes East longitude, when it turns
easterly and north-east, and enters the south side of Sofala Bay. This
river has many tributaries on the west, draining a portion of the
Mashona country, but on the eastern bank there are few, and those but
small. The most important river is the Buzi, taking its rise from many
small tributaries in a hilly district, to the east of the Sabia in 20
degrees 30 minutes South latitude, 32 degrees 30 minutes East longitude,
on a tributary of which the Umsweleze, the chief Umzela's kraal, is
situated; the Buzi from this point takes a sweep round in a north-east
direction, and enters the Indian Ocean in 19 degrees 50 minutes South
latitude, passing through the Sofala region, between this latter river
and the Sabia. The Garogesi river enters Sofala Bay.
There are several small rivers north of the Buzi to the mouth of the
Zambese, that drain the coast-line, which is very flat and marshy. The
tributaries of the Zambese are the Zangwe, Sankatsi, Mowila--the main
branch of the Mazoe enters the river below Tette--Nake, Zingesi, and
Panyame. In the northern portion, between the Mashona and Zambese, are
many isolated and extensive hills,--Vimga, Nadsu, and Vimiga, drained by
the Nake and Zingesi. To the east of these hills is the Lobolo
mountain, with its many spurs, and more to the east the Moltkeberg,
drained by the Mazoe and its tributaries, Gaverese, Upa, Janhambe,
Jankatse, and others of smaller note, all which are in the Zambese
basin, which includes also--lower down that river--the Mowila, Sankatsi,
and Zangwe.
The country towards the sea is flat and most uninteresting. There are
several low ranges of hills in outlying districts. The country
generally is dense bush, and full of game. The Portuguese possessions
do not extend many miles beyond the south bank of the Zambese river.
The chiefs in those districts claim up to that line.
The altitude of the Lombolo mountain is 4200 feet, and the Moltkeberg
3700 feet above sea-level. The general rise of the country is 1700
feet, gradually sloping towards the Zambese and coast. The northern
division is divided into different tribes under their respective chiefs.
The Banyai country is between the Mashona and Zambese, in which is
situated the Portuguese town of Tette, on the banks of the Zambese.
Pretty and picturesque country around, with fruit of every kind, melons,
oranges, lemons, sweet potatoes, pines, and every kind of vegetable; but
the Portuguese are so lazy that everything is left almost to nature.
The river is navigable for small steamers for seventy miles above Tette,
which is situated 260 miles from its mouth. Magnificent timber trees
grow in the valleys, and on the slopes of the hills ivory palm, Mali
palm, the palm that grows to the height of eighty feet; the seed of the
fruit is eaten by the natives; it grows in the uplands, and down on the
low-lying swampy country. Mashola, a tree that bears a round fruit
similar to the Kaffir orange. The india-rubber tree is very common; the
fruit can be eaten. The Umtonto tree is used for making baskets and
other things. Large tracts of country are covered with the Mowasha
bush, mahogany, and ebony up in the hill districts, and all similar
trees found growing in the Mashona country are found there.
There are many native villages along the banks of the several streams,
the country being very thickly populated, particularly in the hill
districts, and the people are industrious and skilful workmen in all
branches of trade, and they make their own blankets from the wild cotton
and baobab tree, which they work by hand, the former by having the yarn
spun by hand with a small stick, weighted at the end; four sticks are
stuck in the ground to form a kind of loom, the yarn stretched tight,
and being wound on a piece of wood, is passed backwards and forwards,
the strands being threaded, to allow the woof to pass through and
through by a backward movement of the hand. They can make blankets the
usual size, and very white and strong. They also manufacture bands of
various sizes for native uses. The blankets made from the bark of the
tree, and bags to hold milk, are very strong and beautifully made. The
females are fond of ornamenting their persons, wearing copper and brass
rings round their necks, on their legs and arms, and some have silver,
which I was told is got out of the mountains. Gold is found in all the
mines in the Banyai country; the natives sell it to the Portuguese at
Tette, and quartz reefs cross the country in many districts; several
portions have not yet been visited, consequently the richness of this
region is not known.
On the mountains and high lands the country is healthy, but the
low-lying ground in the rainy season is very unhealthy. Portuguese
native traders are the only ones that go into those extensive regions,
and supply the population with beads, brass wire, and other things in
exchange for the gold-dust they procure from the rivers. There is an
old fort on the Mazoe river, under the Lobolo mountains, and several
others higher up that have been partly destroyed by the natives for
walls for their gardens, where they plant small fields of cotton to make
their blankets; a little piece is so occupied adjoining their huts, and
it is found to grow very well in elevated positions. I have found it
wild as high as 4300 feet above the sea-level, in a light soil, where
water is not found near, but in the low lands it is very plentiful.
South of the Banyai country is the Batoka, in which is the Moltkaberg,
watered by the Upa river, a tributary of the Luenya. The source of the
Mazoe rises on the watershed in this region, at the Sakaloko kraal, in
18 degrees 0 minutes South latitude. Another spring issues close to
Mebka kraal, and at Gangwesi kraal, at an elevation of 4210 feet above
the sea, and flows north, on which there are many villages, close to
several large vleis, and towards the east is the large kraal of the
chief Makombes on the Mewila river. There are also many other native
kraals situated on all the branches of this river down to the Zambese,
and along its banks, Senna being the most important, where there are
several hills that skirt it. The Batoka tribe is numerous--a fine,
powerful race. The country is full of bush and fine timber, the same
which grows in the Banyai district.
On the east of Batoka is the Senna region, which reaches to the Zambese
and to its mouth, and along the eastern coast, down to where the Sofala
joins it. All that is known of this country is that it is very flat and
low; and within its boundary, on the banks of the Zambese, Dr.
Livingstone's wife was taken ill and died, and was buried on its banks
under a baobab tree, a little below the town of Shupanga, and opposite
to the town of Mulu. Forty miles above the great river Shire branches
off, which flows from Lake Shirwa, in 15 degrees 0 minutes South
latitude, 35 degrees 50 minutes East longitude. There are few hills in
this part of the country of any note. Cotton grows abundantly, and
vegetation is coarse and rank in the swamps.
On the south of Batoka is Birue. This region joins up to the Mashona
country, the Sabia being the boundary, Senna on the east, and Sofala on
the south. The Sabia river rises in 18 degrees 10 minutes South
latitude, near the village of Sakalato, and flows south as before
stated. Upon the banks are Kambesa, Gansuma, Umsosa, Kambiss, and
others. The country is high, with hills of no great extent, thickly
wooded, with abundance of large game of every kind; palms, baobab,
mahogany, ebony, mapari, india-rubber, and a variety of other trees.
The valley along the river is very pretty and picturesque, well
cultivated by the natives, and produces every kind of vegetable. The
people are civil, but very inquisitive, and great beggars. White cotton
seems to be much in demand. The land gradually descends towards the
ocean, until the flat and swampy country is reached.
To the south of Birue is the district of Quitive, a portion of Sofala
that joins up to the Sabia, on the south by Umselayon region. This
district is supposed to be the kingdom of the Queen of Sheba. Manica is
the principal kraal, near which are several ancient ruins, and the
remains of a tower a few miles to the north-west of Manica. It stands
on high ground, 4100 feet above sea-level, which descends to the east,
and not far from the ruins is a large sheet of water, also several
plains on the south of Manica. The population is a mixed race, composed
of Umgovis, who are part Zulus, Mandowas, Basigas, Batagas, Mashonas,
and others, who are under the chief Umzela. There are extensive open
grass-lands, and the low-lying country is healthy during five months of
the winter, when there is no fear of taking the fever. Thirty miles
south of Manica the land rises to 4458 feet.
To the east of this district is the Sofala region, in which the
Portuguese town and port of Sofala are situated. The town is but a poor
place, as all the Portuguese towns are on this coast; but they command
all the trade of the up districts, which is considerable in ivory,
skins, a few ostrich feathers, and other products of the country. It is
situated in 20 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 34 degrees 30 minutes
East longitude. The country at the back of the town is hilly, occupied
by the Mandowa tribe, and is more healthy. The river Bozi flows through
it to the sea, well-wooded with fine timber and bush. Elephants,
rhinoceros, and large game abound. Rice, cotton, spices of all kinds,
oranges, lemons, citrons, bananas, figs, and wild fruit. I was told
that Umzela, the chief who occupies the country south, claims as
paramount chief all those districts in the north, down to the Mandanda
region; but his claim is something similar to that of the Portuguese,
who lay claim to all South Africa to the Atlantic Ocean, from Sofala.
He must be content to put up with such regions as he now has power to
govern; and those countries north of Birue are independent, except such
portions along the coast and up the Zambese as the Portuguese have the
power to rule, which is not much beyond the guns at their so-called
forts. With respect to any extensive or strong stone remains of ancient
cities, supposed to have belonged to the love-sick Queen, there are
none, beyond those that have been erected without mortar. If this
district formed part of her kingdom where she resided, her palace must
have been small, and of no account. If substantial buildings had been
erected, they would surely be there now, as the natives with the means
at their disposal could not have destroyed them; but what is so
remarkable is that no relics have been found of any kind, no rubbish
left where they may have stood. The only one I discovered was in a
stream of the Sabia, where the copper beads were found. It was an oval
piece of copper, the size of a sixpence, and as thick, with much defaced
marks on both sides that cannot be made out, being so much worn. To
pronounce it a coin would be premature. When the country is properly
prospected, there may be found sufficient evidence to settle this
long-disputed question; but if extensive ruins existed, the natives
would know, and it would soon have reached the ears of travellers that
have passed through that country. There must be some foundation for
these ancient traditional reports. The country shows that in remote
times gold in large quantities has been extracted from the earth, and if
it is so easily found in the rivers, why should not nuggets have been
found lying on the surface, which first drew the attention of the
ancients to look for it. The name of the river flowing through this
region, the "Sabia," may have been changed by time from "Sheba," the
same as "Sofala" for "S'Ophir." There is also a ruin called Piza, and
another Manica, two names foreign to the other names of the country; and
the region of Monomotapa may have received its name from some early
inhabitants, descendants of the people under this renowned queen. At
present nothing is definite on this point, and the magnificence of her
palaces have been, much overrated in ancient history. If this was the
real Ophir of Solomon, the Arabs along the coast and at Sofala believe
this to be the true Ophir, Umzela was the great chief of all that part
of the country known as the Birue, Quitive, Sofala, and Mandanda
regions. His chief kraal, Utshani, is situated in 20 degrees 27 minutes
South latitude, 32 degrees 28 minutes East longitude, between lofty
hills, the altitude being 3180 feet by aneroid barometer, and it is
situated on the upper source of the Buzi river, which flows in a
north-east direction and enters the Indian Ocean on the north of the
town and port of Sofala. The country is very fertile, and the banks of
the Sabia on the west of the town, through which that river meanders in
a south direction, is flanked by high and picturesque hills, and clothed
in all the beauty of tropical vegetation. Mahogany, ebony, untanto,
palm, umchani, maparri, umsimbili, bananas, assagaai or lance wood,
barrie, boschlemon, wild almond, kajaten (a fine black wood), knopjes
doorn, wild olive, saffraan, fig, cabbage tree, makwakwe (the strychnine
of the country), vitboom (quinine), india-rubber, and a host of other
sorts that would fill a page if named, all most valuable for various
purposes. Large flocks of sheep and goats and herds of cattle are
reared. There is also the large game, such as elephants, rhinoceros,
giraffes, buffaloes, koodoos, and other large antelopes, lions, tigers,
wolves, jackals, tiger-cats in plenty, beside the various earth-animals,
ant-bears, porcupines, armadillos, and many others. Umzela's territory
is called Umselayon, which embraces all those districts above described.
The mountains which completely encircle the chief's kraal are very
picturesque and peculiar in their form, making the Sinika river a
tributary of the Buzi; which forms in its course almost a circle,
thickly studded with fine timber and bush, and they do not extend much
beyond the river towards the east, which is a low, flat country to the
sea. The Portuguese have no control over any part of Umzela's
territory; they only hold possession of narrow slips of land along parts
of the coast. The natives offered no opposition to my visits, and were
willing to barter food for articles of clothing, principally linen
cloth; but in many other portions of the country I had to use great
caution to prevent suspicion as to the object of my visits. In many
cases I have passed through tribes who would have been troublesome, but
as I took goods to barter I was considered a trader, and as such one can
journey almost anywhere. Some considered also I was a doctor or
medicine-man, because I caught and preserved insects, snakes, and other
small reptiles, besides plants. When this idea takes possession of some
of the African races, they leave you unmolested; any injury they might
inflict would be considered unlucky to themselves. I used to carry
representations of snakes of wood, that are sold in England, and masks
with extensive noses, so that when the natives came round my waggon
begging, as they frequently did, from two to three hundred at a time, I
would draw down the front sail of the waggon, slip inside, put on one of
these masks, and with the snake curling about in my hand jump out in
their midst, when the women and children would rush away howling, the
men after them, to their kraals, and I would be left free from
annoyance. During my stay at their station, before I could obtain these
things, I used a large burning-glass, and when any one troubled me,
would burn their hand until it began to pain. Then I would run after
others, which soon cleared them off. Travelling past their kraals so
frequently they knew my waggon, and if they pestered me for presents I
had only to get out my sun-glass, and they were away in no time.
The only rivers of consequence beside the Sabia and the Buzi in this
portion of Umzela's country are the Umkoni, Umswelise, Umtschomie,
Gerongosi, the source of which rises not far from the Buzi, runs east,
and enters the Indian Ocean, about twenty miles south of Sofala. The
Lusuti rises with several branches about thirty miles to the north of
Umzela's kraal, and joins the Buzi sixty miles from its mouth. There is
also the Haroni and its tributary the Lusiti, and the small river Donde
that flows into the Sofala harbour. South of the Mandanda region are
the districts of Sheshonga, Indobolini, Mashelbe, and Makalingi. To the
east is the Manklin district, that takes the coast-line from Maramone
Bay, down south to Cape Lady Grey, off which are the islands of
Bazaruta, Benguela, Sigin, and a small group at Cape St. Sebastian. To
the north of Maramone Bay, some thirty miles, are the two great islands
of Chuluwan. All the coast-line is flat, infested with the tsetse-fly,
and most unhealthy. The Mandowa tribe occupy the hill district and
country inland from Sofala, and it is under the rule of Umzela, and is
in charge of Imbasugwar, one of his chief men.
Manukuza, father of Umzela, is a Zulu from Zululand, who fled from
Chaka, the great Zulu king. His followers are called Mongonis, and all
the tribes under him, viz. Basigo, Kulu, Mandanda, Cholee, and
Mandower, are called Tonges. Deloms, a chief of Umzela, is over the
district of Mazibbe, and Sondaba, an Indian, over Sheshongi, which is on
the south side of the Sabia. The country is flat and marshy, and full
of game. Rhinoceros, elephants, koodoos, giraffes, wildebeest, wild
hogs, and nearly all the antelope tribe, and zebras. Date and other
palms, bananas, jute, and wild cotton, beside many native fruits abound.
A very poisonous plant grows on the flats, from which the natives
extract, from the seed, poison to put on their assagais and arrows.
[This poison is the strongest known. An eminent toxicologist, who in
distilling became inoculated with it through a slight scratch. He was
nearly dying for six weeks, and said he had no idea that any poison
could be so strong; it would kill a man in three minutes, and an
elephant in one hour and a half. The flesh of animals killed by it is
not poisonous. It loses its strength by evaporation in about a year.]
The country in places is noted for its immense ant-hills, almost as
large as those I have described in another part of this work. The
southern boundary of Umzela's territory is not at present ascertained;
the country south of that already described is known under the name of
Umhlenga, where the Queen Mafussi, of Inhoxe, rules a portion, which is
a vast, open, undulating country, through which the Limpopo flows for
over 200 miles to the sea, at Port Alice. The Lundi river, a tributary
of the Sabia, joins it in Umzela's country. It is the continuation of
the Ingwesi, mentioned in the Mashona description. To the south of this
region, and inland from the town and port of Inhambane, is the region
called Makwakwa or Marangwe--a strong, powerful race of the same tribe
as the Chobis, Bala Kulu, Basiga, Mashongonini, and Mandandas.
Inhambane is situated on the sea-coast. The territory is very narrow,
not exceeding twenty miles inland, and eighty miles along the coast.
A small river, the Inyanombi, falls into the bay, and the river Zavara
drains the country of the Makwakwa's tribe--a low, flat region. There
is still a tribe occupying a part of Umzela's territory that call
themselves the powerful Makololo race, of the same family that ruled an
extensive region on the Zambese river above the Victoria Falls, and
became a terror to the neighbouring tribes. The Barutse people fought
and nearly exterminated them, scattering those left far and wide amongst
other tribes, and broke up the race entirely. This Makololo nation on
the Zambese extended as far as that white tribe mentioned, living on the
Quito and upper portion of the Cubango--now become mixed with the black
races, and from reports, a wild and savage race, eating human flesh.
May not these two tribes have travelled up the Zambese together at some
remote time? It seems singular that the Makololos in Umzela's country
should call themselves the once-powerful Makololo tribe; and we find
them on the Upper Zambese, the most powerful tribe in all that central
part of Africa, 400 miles away from those in Umzela's land. It is an
interesting study to trace the various periods, as they advanced south
from Egypt, and to find at the present time many Arabian and Jewish
customs amongst them; and another interesting feature of those races is
that many names of places in Central Africa are precisely similar to
many names in the islands of the South Pacific Ocean. So far as is
known of this country, we come across limestone, slate shale, red
sandstone, green stone, quartz, porphyritic rocks, gravel, and on the
western slope of the highlands, granites.
Referring again to the land of Ophir, there are no black races in any
other part of Africa that allow a woman to rule over them; but in the
immediate neighbourhood of Sofala there are three queens, viz. Queen
Mafussi over Inhoaxe, adjoining Umzela's territory, and immediately on
the south of her are the two Queens Majaji and Mescharoon. May not this
be one identification, that it was right that woman should be a ruler as
well as man, handed down from the Queen of Sheba's time? Also a large
portion of Madagascar is ruled over by an Arab race that must have
settled there a very long time ago. Their language is Arabic, and
queens of that island have and do now rule the greater portion of it.