THE REGION NORTH OF THE TRANSVAAL UNDER LO-BENGULU, THE MATABELE KING.
ITS PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY AND NOTES ON MY EXPLANATIONS. WITHIN THE LIMPOPO
BASIN.
This region is commonly known as Matabeleland, Maahona, and Makalaka
country. It extends from the Limpopo river northwards to the Zambese
river. The western boundary joins up to the Bechuanaland occupied by
the chief Khama, and on the east by the territory belonging to the chief
Umzela. The extent from north to south is 420 miles, and from east to
west 340 geographical miles. The mountain range, Molopo, traverses it
the whole length in a diagonal direction, from the north-east corner
down to the south-west, which forms the watershed dividing the Zambese
from the Limpopo basin, the northern portion of this kingdom being in
the former, and the southern in the latter. The tributaries of the
Limpopo take their rise from this watershed, all of them, without
exception, flowing through a beautiful and well-wooded country,
containing some of the most magnificent and valuable timber to be found
in Africa: mahogany, ebony, and other useful woods suitable for building
purposes and other work. The principal names of these rivers are the
Shasha, being the southern, between the chief Khama and Lo-Bengulu, the
Tati, Ramakaban, Mpakwe, Meksine, Rubi, and Nuanettie. The whole
country drained by these rivers is granite, with lofty and picturesque
hills covered with tropical vegetation of many flowering shrubs and
trees, with the brilliant flowers everywhere peeping out between massive
granite rocks, lying one upon another for several hundred feet in most
grotesque forms. This gives to the landscape a peculiar and novel
appearance, quite different from anything seen in the south. Many of
the spurs of the Molopo range are free from bush, where the native
cattle find fine grazing-land, and the gigantic baobab, palms,
euphorbias, aloes of many kinds with their crimson flowers, and other
tropical trees skirt the hills and mountain streams. The fallen masses
of rock from the pyramidal-shaped hills strew the ground at their base,
and give a peculiar and strange feature to the scenery around. This
country gradually descends towards the south and east, until it reaches
the Limpopo river, interrupted by many isolated hills and mountain
ranges, thickly wooded; the most inaccessible points being selected by
the Mashona natives for their kraals, to be secure from surprise by the
Matabele warriors.
The population of the eastern division of the Mashona country is mostly
composed of the Mashona tribe that occupied this region previous to the
invasion of the dreaded Zulu chief Moselikatze, about the year 1840,
when he advanced north with his army of wild Zulus, and took possession
of all the country which is now included in the Matabele kingdom. There
are also several other tribes living in this district, the most numerous
being the Makalakas, Bakalahara, and the Mesere Bushmen, and many of the
Banyai, Makloes, Makatse, and Mantatees, that have crossed the Limpopo
from the Transvaal.
The Tati gold-fields occupy the western border on the north bank of the
Tati river, which were first discovered by Mr. H. Hartly, the well
known and highly-respected elephant-hunter from the interior, in 1867,
which soon became known, and a number of diggers from Australia and
other parts came flocking to the scene. Amongst the number was Sir John
Swinburne. A company was formed, and after spending much money in
machinery and other works, it was abandoned, sufficient gold not being
found to pay expenses. The stores and works fell into ruin, and the
last of the powerful engines, weighing several tons, was washed down the
river nearly two miles, and deposited on the bank some twenty feet above
the river-bed, where I saw it when returning from Matabeleland in 1878.
The fact of the flood-waters carrying down such a huge and heavy mass as
this engine two miles, and depositing it at so high a level, will give
some idea of the force and quantity of the water that fills these rivers
during that time. The rainy season varies as to time; sometimes it
commences early in November, at others later, and lasts until February
or March. In all these tributaries of the Limpopo that drain the above
region, none retain water throughout the year, although they are large
and broad streams with steep and lofty banks, but during the dry season
water may be obtained from most of them by digging a few feet in their
sandy beds; they are all at too sharp an angle to allow water to remain
in them. The main road from Ba-Mangwato to Matabeleland crosses most of
them, and frequently I have had to wait weeks on their banks until the
flood-water had subsided to enable me to cross. On one occasion I was
on the point of crossing the Bamakaban river, and was treking down the
bank to enter it with my waggon, when my driver called my attention to a
great roaring sound which came from the up-river side. Having
previously had several days of storms, with heavy rains, we held still
to listen, and from previous experience we too well knew the cause.
There was not time to cross and reach the opposite side before the rush
of water would be upon us, particularly with an ox-waggon, as the sand
in these river-beds is very heavy for oxen to pull a waggon through, and
sometimes they take it into their heads to come to a stand until they
think proper to move on again, after a little coaxing with one or two
South African waggon-whips, the handles of which are twelve feet long,
and the lash twenty. Therefore, to prevent any catastrophe, we selected
a pretty open grassy glade on the wooded bank, and outspanned; but
before we had completed this operation, the water was in sight, coming
down like a wall, bringing trees of considerable size, large stems of
dead wood, sticks, and froth, rushing and tearing along with a roaring
sound that could be heard miles away, and in a few minutes there was
sufficient to float a large ship. Where would my waggon have been if I
had attempted to cross?--Carried down into the Indian Ocean in
splinters. Many a waggon and their owners have been caught in these
flood-waters and lost in the rivers of Africa. Nevertheless, with all
its inconveniences, it is a grand and imposing sight, and a novel one to
those who are unaccustomed to African travelling in an ox-waggon.
[A waggon which contained the journal of St. Vincent Erskine, the
traveller, of his third expedition in this country, was thus washed down
a river. A white girl and a Kaffir and the oxen were drowned. A number
of men searched the banks for the journal for days in vain, and it was
only found accidentally two years afterwards in its tin case in a bush
so high above the river that no one had thought of looking there.]
We were detained here eleven days before we were able to cross, the sand
in the river-bed being very deep, and resting on the granite-bed rock
beneath, which is not very smooth or level. The force of the flood
sweeps away all the sand, leaving a rugged bed; therefore it is prudent
to wait till the water has drained away, that we may pick a safe road
across, otherwise an axle might break, or some damage be done to the
waggon. In all cases it is wise not to be in a hurry. I have known
fussy transport riders flounder into such rivers before the water has
subsided, and break their waggon, which has detained them weeks to get
repaired.
During our stay we had some excellent shooting, big game as well as
small. The third afternoon of our stay seven giraffes were seen by my
herd boy, who was looking after the oxen in the veldt, and he came and
reported the same. Not having my shooting pony at hand, I had to send
for him and saddle up, and started with my driver and forelooper to find
these noble animals; but to do so it is necessary to be very slim, as it
is called here, that is very sharp and clever in stalking your game,
otherwise it will escape. It is surprising how keen and sensitive the
eye and ear become to all woodland sounds and trifling incidents
necessary for a hunter to observe and note, to lead him up to the game
he is seeking; a broken stick, a crushed leaf or blade of grass, a
broken twig where the game has passed, must be keenly looked for. We
had proceeded but a short distance when we met three Mesere Bushmen with
their bows and arrows, who told my driver they were coming to tell us of
several giraffes that were feeding in a dense bush not far away. With
the natives not far away means any distance, they being bad judges in
such cases. We, however, secured them to show the way, one taking the
lead, the rest of us following in Indian file, the pony being led by my
driver. After winding in and out through the forest for nearly a mile
as far as I could guess, the first Bushman called a halt, at the same
time he advanced crawling along very cautiously, until we lost sight of
him for some little time, when we saw him come crawling back in the same
way. He told us there were, by counting on his fingers, eight giraffes
quietly feeding a short distance in front. The bush being too dense to
make use of the pony, he was left behind in charge of my boy, and we,
with our two rifles, with our Bushman guide, had to adopt the same mode
of advance, to get near enough for a shot, and crawl with the greatest
caution, avoiding any dead and dry sticks, for at the least sound in
breaking one they would be off and away in a moment. After proceeding
on our hands and knees for some distance, the Bushman, who was in front,
motioned with his hand that they were in sight. Crawling up with the
greatest care, I could only distinguish their heads and long necks above
the bushes which surrounded them on all sides, not one hundred yards
away.
We waited until one of their bodies came into view, when we were to fire
from both rifles at the same animal. The silence of death was around,
not a puff of air to move a leaf, the bright tropical sun shining in all
his glory, making the heat almost intolerable. In this position we
waited some ten minutes before a chance occurred. One of them came more
into the open, with his body in full view. Now was the moment to fire,
and our two bullets entered his body with the well known sound which a
ball makes in striking. He fell, but was up again in a moment.
It was a beautiful sight to see; the others leaping and bounding away,
swaying their long necks from side to side, until lost in the bush. But
we had no time to look after them; our attention was drawn to the one we
had shot. After regaining his feet and attempting to follow the others,
he only staggered a short distance, and then fell dead; a noble corpse,
and a noble bag.
After our excitement was a little subsided, it was necessary to consider
how we were to get such a huge beast to the waggon with the least
trouble. It was arranged to inspan the waggon, and bring it round the
best way we could through the forest to as near the dead giraffe as
possible. It was now near upon ten o'clock in the morning. Despatching
my boys and one of the Bushmen to carry this plan out, I remained with
the other two Bushmen, who wanted no instructions. Giving them my
hunting-knife, they were soon at work skinning this beautiful animal,
which proved to be a young cow, but full-grown and the finest meat in
Africa, very much like veal in flavour. In a short time the waggon was
brought up to within fifty yards, and outspanned in the shade of some
noble trees, for the sun's rays were intense, and with the heat and
fatigue, I was glad to throw myself on the grass, after a good drink of
cold tea, to rest and smoke, whilst my Kaffirs and driver were making a
fire for cooking, skinning the giraffe, and doing other household work.
Being well supplied with good water, the casks being full, our
contentment for the time was complete.
What a glorious thing is this wild life, where game and water are
plentiful, with liberty to roam where one lists, with health and
strength to enjoy it! The only surprise is that any one can be ill in
such a country, pure air, plenty of exercise, good food and water,
constantly moving, seeing fresh sights daily: I pity the man that cannot
enjoy a life so free and so exciting as this. A giraffe lying at full
length on the grass is a grand sight. This one measured fifteen feet
seven inches, from hoof to the ears, and it was a work of much labour to
skin and cut up such a large beast, but everything was done by 4 p.m.
Bushmen are like vultures, they scent game afar off, for by the time
everything had been cleared up and put straight, eight fresh Bushmen,
their wives and several children, had put in an appearance, and were
looking with longing eyes upon the remains of the giraffe. I was glad
to see them, and told them they could take what was left. Poor things,
their delight was complete. Knives were out, slashing and cutting up
commenced, and divided out; a fire was made and cooking went on up to
midnight. The night was fine, and as the fire lighted up the figures as
they moved about, and shone upon the trees and shrubs, it was about as
unique a picture as one could desire to see, and would have told well if
the scene had been in Hyde Park or Kensington Gardens.
During the night we were much annoyed by lions round our camp, some of
them coming so close that a Bushman caught up a burning piece of wood
and threw it in the face of one, with such good aim, it fell on his
shaggy mane, and made it smoke, when he cleared off. Bushmen seem to
care very little for lions; they think nothing of walking through the
forest with only a short spear. I was too tired to go after them, but
two days afterwards had a narrow escape; as I was walking along up the
river-bank looking for guinea-fowl, I came plump upon two. Having only
my shot-gun I could do nothing. I was in a fix, and if they had known
it, they could have made short work of my bones. As it was, we stood
looking at each other, not with any pleasurable emotion on my part, and
I think they participated in the same feeling, for after some five
minutes had passed, the young lion slunk behind a thick bush, and soon
after the old one followed. During the whole time I never moved hand or
foot. If I had raised my gun to fire, or turned, the old one would have
been down upon me in one spring, for I was within springing distance, we
were so close. When the old one stood partly facing me, in an attitude
of defence, his mane raised and his large glaring, fiery eyes fixed upon
mine, he was a noble animal, appearing almost double the size of those
caged at home. I never moved my position for some time after they
disappeared; if I had they might have attacked; and when I did, it was
for some twenty paces backwards, and then I turned and followed the
river down to camp, after securing three guinea-fowl.
During the remainder of my stay here, we cut up and dried the giraffe,
to make biltong, which will keep for years; in the day exploring the
rivers and country, taking observations, collecting specimens of
everything interesting, and writing up my journal. On the 15th we found
the river dry, and sent the boys down with spades to make the drift good
by filling in the holes between the granite rocks, for the waggon to
pass over, and we arrived on the north bank in the evening, in time to
make fast the oxen to the trektow before dark. Every night we heard
lions and wolves, but this night we were infested with them: the scent
of the raw flesh in the waggon seemed to draw them, for they gave us no
peace. The bush was thick, and the night dark and cloudy. They gave us
no chance for a shot; the only thing we could do was to keep up great
fires all night and watch. We fired several shots into the darkness
where we thought they were prowling about. Several times we thought
they were fighting by the fierce growls and spits they made, but we
found the spits came from the females, as lions are never known to do
so. If it were not for the novelty of the affair in listening to and
seeing lions in their own native wilds, I would prefer a good sound
sleep in my waggon, but we do not meet with such noble game every day of
our lives.
When Sir John Swinburne and his company were working for gold at Tati,
other diggers followed up that river, some thirty and others forty
miles, and worked claims near its banks at Todd's Creek and Charley, but
did not find sufficient gold to pay, and they were also abandoned. At
the present time a new company has been formed to work the old diggings
at Tati, and I believe find more than sufficient to pay expenses.
Ancient workings in the district have been discovered, but when used, no
history can inform us.
About a mile to the west of the Tati station, on the summit of a hill
about 200 feet above the river, are some very interesting remains of an
ancient fort, built of hewn stone. The outer walls, now standing, are
four feet in height, with two courses running the whole length, about
half-way up, with five regular courses between, built in the
herring-bone fashion, similar to those in old Roman walls now preserved
in England. These stones are very thin, not much thicker than common
tiles; the other courses have stones in regular layers, three inches
deep and about a foot in length. This wall is two feet thick, and
encloses a space of about half an acre. The floor originally was
concrete; large portions still remain, and nearly in the centre are
portions of small furnaces for melting metal. At the south-west corner
of this enclosure are several rooms, with walls dividing them seven feet
in height. In the eastern room the walls are twenty feet high, and it
appears to have been a tower, leaving a space of some four feet between
the outer and inner wall; and, when in a perfect state, it must have
been a strong place, of defence, standing, as it does, on the topmost
ridge of the hill, overlooking the river and surrounding country. There
is no evidence of any mortar being used; mud may have been a substitute,
and from time to time been washed away. Trees are growing in many of
these rooms of considerable size, as also bushes. This being a
favourite lurking-place for lions, I had to explore it with a rifle in
one hand, and book and rod in the other. It is a most interesting ruin
and well constructed, evidently the work of a white race. There are no
Kaffir tribes in this part of Africa or south that have ever been known
to build their kraals square or with hewn stone. Other ancient and
similar ruins are still preserved beyond these diggings higher up the
river, the walls also square and fifteen feet in height. The country is
dense bush, with fine timber. Lignum-vitae trees abound; the wood when
cut is black and white, very hard, and used for waggon desselbooms and
axles. It has been known to last almost as long as iron.
The Tati station is the only white man's station between Ba-Mangwato and
Gubuluwayo, the Matabele king's military kraal. It is distant from the
former 169 miles, and from the latter 126 miles. A few stores were
opened by English traders, to supply the Bushmen who brought ostrich
feathers for sale (but if known by the Matabele people they would have
been killed), and also travellers and hunters passing up and down from
the interior, as it is situated on the main and only transport road to
that country. The range of mountains, "Mopolo," forming the watershed
above mentioned, averages in height 4320 feet above sea-level, there are
some parts nearly 5000; it is of granite formation. Along some of the
rivers, already described, may be seen some fine slate rocks.
The natives procure very fine gold-dust from the sand in some of the
river-beds, and sell it. They preserve it in the quill of a feather
from the wing of a vulture, where they deposit it for safety. Every
kind of game is found in this region, but it is becoming more scarce
every year. This part is known as the Makalakaland. Quartz intersects
the country in several parts, and is rich in gold.
There are many military posts on the slopes of the watershed down to
Makobi's outpost, on the Mpakwe river, which is the frontier outpost,
where all travellers and hunters have to stop, to obtain permission to
enter the country before proceeding. On the arrival of any stranger, a
messenger is sent to the king, and if he objects, he has to turn back,
and if allowed to proceed, two Matabele warriors from the regiment
stationed there take charge of the visitor, and conduct him to his
majesty, who inquires his business, so that no one is allowed to enter
his territory without his knowledge. Although the Matabele country
comes down to the Shasha river, no one occupies that district, except a
few wandering Bushmen, south of the military post at Makobi's.
There are many ancient forts similar to those at and near the Tati, the
ruins of which are still to be seen on commanding positions, but none of
any great extent; a garrison of 100 men would be as many as could occupy
them. Most of them are so concealed from view by trees and bush, that
it is by mere accident they are discovered. I once outspanned in the
centre of one without knowing it, thinking it an old Kaffir kraal, until
my attention was called to the peculiar form of the stonework of hewn
stone, and the square rooms.
At the Mpakwe river near the south side of the drift, and twenty-nine
miles north from the Tati river, is another very interesting ruin, built
of cut granite with regular courses, each stone nearly the same size,
and regularly jointed. The walls are ten feet high, and two feet thick.
The interior was a smooth granite concrete floor, and contained burnt
earth similar to bricks, in great quantities. That portion facing the
river was divided into several rooms. At the main entrance within the
building is a small kind of sentry-box commanding the opening, capable
of holding only two persons.
The situation is commanding, and must have been, when perfect, capable
of holding out against an enemy. There is another very good specimen of
these ancient forts a short distance from the Camarlo drift, on the
river Umfulamokokgumala, which is a branch of the Mapui, that falls into
the Gwaii, a tributary of the Zambese; this drift is on the topmost
ridge of the watershed of the Mopolo, at an elevation of 4360 feet above
sea-level.
The fort is 110 feet square, with rounded corners. In the centre is a
fort thirty-five feet square, with walls two feet thick. All of them
have large bushes growing in and through the walls. There are many
other ancient forts similar in construction to those described in this
region, and also many more to the east, within the southern division of
Lo-Bengulu's territory, and within the Limpopo basin.
Sixty-three miles north of the Tati gold-fields, on the transport road,
is Lee's farm, situated on the Mpakwe river, a branch of the Shasha, a
grant of land which Lee obtained many years ago from the king
Umseligasi, or better known as Moselikatze, the dreaded chief. It is
situated a few miles south of Manyami's outpost, on the south slope of
the Matoppo mountain, the western spur of the Mopolo range. Lee, on his
father's side, is English, but he has married into a Boer family, and
has great influence with Lo-Bengulu.
Sixty-three miles north of Lee's farm is the great military station of
Lo-Bengulu, situated on the summit of the watershed named Gubuluwayo or
Gibbeklaik, a strong and well-laid-out town on the summit of a low hill;
the king's houses and his cattle kraal being in the centre, surrounded
by strong fencing, leaving an open space, round which the town is built.
It will be more particularly described in another chapter, as it
belongs more to the Zambese basin.
An extract from my journal for a few days will give a clearer insight
into African travelling than any other description.
From the Tati gold-fields to Gubuluwayo, the military kraal, distance
126 miles.
_December 8th_, 1877.--Inspanned at 4 p.m. for the interior. Treked
about a mile, when my oxen, frightened by lions, turned suddenly round,
and broke the desselboom of the waggon. I had to splice it, and return
to Tati station in the evening.
_9th_.--Kept awake all night by lions. Out all day in the bush, looking
for a suitable tree to cut down, to make desselboom; the knopjiesdoorn
or lignum-vitae is the best. I went with rifle and Kaffir with axe all
round the hills, and at last found a straight one, which we cut down and
brought to camp.
_10th, Sunday_.--A very wet, stormy day; severe thunderstorm. Mr. Scott
returned from Macloutsie river, there being no water on the road to
Mongwato.
_11th, Monday_.--Very hot day. Thermometer in shade 96 degrees.
Barometer 26.75; altitude at this station 3740, and at the river 3100
feet above sea-level. Lions and wolves making noises all night. Mr.
Lee's two married daughters came in from the hunting-veldt. We went out
to examine an ancient fort, and look over old gold-diggings, Mr.
McArthur making my desselboom, 3 p.m. News brought in that camels and
elephants are passing within four miles to the north-west. McArthur and
self saddle up, and after a ride of three miles, fall in with four
giraffes. Shot one, rode back, sent waggon on and followed, and brought
back a waggon-load of meat. Arrived in camp, 9 p.m., thoroughly tired
and hungry. Had a grand supper at McArthur's store, a glass of toddy,
and to bed at 11 p.m.
_12th_.--Out shooting all day with McArthur. Passed close to a lion in
the bush, shot at him but missed, and he made off. A fearful storm in
the night.
_13th_.--Two white men came in from Gubuluwayo, they tell us Lo-Bengulu
will not allow any white men in the Mashona country, and has sent out a
thousand Kaffirs to drive away the game, and annoy the hunters in the
hunting-veldt. Scott, Kurton, and many others have been robbed by the
Makalakas, and the king will give no satisfaction. Many of the traders
have been threatened with the assagai, and one's life is not safe in the
country. Thermometer 98 degrees. Visited the ancient forts to take
measurements, and procure some pretty birds, of which this country is
full. Mr. Brown, who has a store here, is very clever in preserving
them.
_14th_.--McArthur making my desselboom. Thermometer 101 degrees. Four
waggons have come down, some from Panda-ma-Tenka. The hunters up there
have done nothing, the game having all been driven away by the natives.
Trade is bad and everything in confusion. Those come in to-day are
Wiltshire, Gordon, Fry, and four others.
_15th_.--Desselboom finished. Very warm, 104 degrees. Out exploring
amongst the hills, and also on the 16th.
_17th_.--Three waggons left to-day for down country, with Palmer, Bray,
and Gordon.
_18th, Tuesday_.--Scott left to-day with Thompson. Rain all day and
last night. Lions came close up to waggon, but too dark to get a shot.
_19th_.--Kaffirs came in to tell us there are plenty of giraffes and
buffalo between this and Ramakaban river. Saddle up, McArthur with me;
go in pursuit. Come up with a herd of buffaloes, seventeen, but bush is
so dense cannot get a good shot; and after several attempts to get round
them, they make off for the hills, and we return to camp in time to
escape a severe thunderstorm.
_20th_.--Out all day down the rivers. Very hot, 107 degrees. The rain
makes the heat very trying.
_21st, Longest day_.--Thermometer 102 degrees. The river is coming down
fast. In the morning there was no water in its bed. At 4 p.m. it had
risen twelve feet, bringing down large trees.
_22nd, Saturday_.--Left the Tati station at 6:30 a.m. Travelled six
miles, and outspanned at a pan for the day. Plenty of water, wooded
country all the way; crossed three bad sluits. Buffaloes, giraffes, and
elephants can be seen from the waggon as we trek along, but the bush is
so thick we cannot follow them. Shot a bastard eland before reaching
the pan, which we secured by sending my two boys to protect it whilst we
outspanned, as the distance was only a few hundred yards from the pan.
The flesh is very good eating. Inspanned at 5 p.m., and treked four
miles, as it came on to rain with thunder, and outspanned for the night
in the bush. Made three large fires round oxen, to keep off lions that
were constantly prowling about the waggon. Very pretty country, and
pleasant to travel through when water is plentiful. McArthur's driver I
find very useful; he is a Zulu and speaks English.
_23rd_.--Very warm, 105 degrees. Treked in two inspans to Mpakwe river,
through a very pretty and picturesque country. Crossed the Mpakwe on
the 24th, a bad drift, and outspanned on the north bank, two miles south
of Makobi's outpost, a military kraal of the Matabele king. Sent Dirk,
my driver, to the head Induna, for permission to go in. During his
absence a Zulu came to waggon. I gave him for a present some powder and
bullets, also a kerchief. He then, while I was reading, stole an axe
and my waggon-whip, and cleared. The river is very pretty, and the
wooded hills, with the variety of trees and shrubs that grow on their
sides, impart a richness to the landscape.
_25th, Christmas Day_.--Thermometer 108 degrees. Inspanned at six.
Treked up to Makobi's outpost. Two Indunas came to me, and several
hundred of the natives, men, women, and children, swarming round me, and
under the waggon, ready to steal anything they could lay their hands on.
I complained to the Induna respecting the theft last evening, and told
him I should report it to the king if the whip and axe were not
returned. In about an hour the axe was returned, but not the whip.
It was amusing to see all the Kaffir girls when they came to sell their
milk, ground-nuts, pumpkins, and other things, when I told them I would
not buy any of their things because of the theft. They immediately
began to abuse the thief in no measured language, because they found
they had lost the sale of their goods; and when they found I was firm,
the Induna promised I should have the whip on my return, if it could not
be found before I left. I therefore got into the waggon to get some
beads to purchase milk and other things, followed by half-a-dozen Kaffir
maids with their goods, filling the waggon, followed by others blocking
up the front. There was scarcely room to move. I soon cleared them
out; these naked Venuses were much better outside.
The heat was terrific, 108 degrees in the waggon, full of these wild
children of nature, with several hundred naked people round and under
the waggon; a regular Babel of sounds, men begging for everything they
saw, even wanting the clothes I had on. The head Induna took a fancy to
my waistcoat, and as I wanted to get on without sending a message to the
king, I made a bargain with him, that if he would send two of his
warriors as my guard to the king, I would give him the waistcoat and an
old black coat. This settled the question. I gave him the coat and
waistcoat, which he then put on his naked person, and strutted up and
down full of pride and vanity to the admiration of all. He was a
splendid specimen of humanity, standing at least six feet six inches,
stout in proportion, with a handsome, expressive countenance. My coat
looked ridiculously small, and the waistcoat would not meet in front by
several inches, but that was of no consequence.
At last, after settling for pay to my two guards, I left at 4 p.m.,
thankful to get away. Up to this time a cup of coffee in the early
morning, and a few biscuits, had been my Christmas fare. After
travelling three miles over a very stony road I came to a stand. The
only means of getting on was to make use of the screw-jack to raise the
wheels over the enormous granite blocks in the road--first the front,
then the after wheels. When clear of them I set to work to cut down
trees, to make room for the waggon to pass. At last, when night came, I
was too exhausted to do anything but lie down on my bed and go to sleep.
Christmas Days in Africa have, from some cause, been unlucky with me in
the way of good fare; monkeys, tiger-cats, meercats, porcupines,
ant-bears, and such like dainties, have always fallen to my lot on
Christmas Day.
_26th, Wednesday_.--Splendid morning. No disturbance all night. Rose
by sun-up, hungry; had a broil of some eland on an iron ramrod, and
coffee--meat fit for the gods. Lovely and cool, thermometer 78 degrees.
Took a bath in a small stream close at hand, a luxury not always to be
obtained. As it was a cloudy morning and cool, I gave the oxen a feed
and drink before starting. As we were only a short distance from the
military kraal, we soon had some thirty Kaffir girls with wooden bowls
of milk for sale.
Of all people I think these black people are most alive to the
ridiculous and fun; full of what is called banter and quizzing, and very
observant. On their arrival my boys and the two Zulus began to chaff
them, but they gave it back with interest, and evidently had the best of
it. Their witty remarks were very clever, and my boys had to give in.
Some of them were very good-looking, with beautiful figures and
expressive faces. Having filled all our bottles, and my Kaffirs having
had a good drink of milk, we inspanned, and after two treks arrived at
Lee's farm for the night, passing on the way many quaint granite hills
covered with tropical vegetation. The country round was also very
pretty. Great unbroken masses of granite stand out in all directions.
Lee was from home; his wife gave us coffee and sold us some reims.
_27th, Thursday_.--Beautiful morning. Treked in two inspans through a
lovely country, intersected by many lofty granite kopjies, 300 feet in
height, masses of granite formations, as if placed there by the hand of
man; passing the Manyami's outpost, on to Matapola station at the foot
of the mountain of the same name, and outspanned on a pleasant open
piece of grass, near some fine trees, the Kaffirs coming down in
hundreds, begging "Tusa, Tusa," everlasting, until my head Zulu, guard
ordered them off to their kraal, leaving the girls to sell their milk
and ground-nuts. Without this guard I should have had much trouble to
keep these sons of nature in subjection.
On our way to-day I was nearly having to pay a large sum. At our
outspan my herd boy, who had charge of the oxen when feeding, allowed
them to stray into a Kaffir garden, where a fine crop of Kaffir corn was
growing. My head guard found it out, and told my boys that they must
bring on the oxen at once, inspan, and be off. If the Kaffirs found
their corn trampled and eaten it would be serious; so we lost no time to
push on. If any damage of this kind occurs, if only to a trifling
extent, they will demand many head of oxen as a quittance. The guards
seemed as pleased to get away as we did. No game to be seen on this
side of Makobi's; there are too many Kaffirs in the country. Many
thousand head of cattle grazing everywhere.
_28th, Friday_.--Made two treks to-day. Crossed several bad drifts, but
the scenery is very grand and beautiful, passing between lofty and
grotesque granite conical hills, beautifully covered with many varieties
of tropical shrubs and flowers. Met Mr. John Lee going home with Mr.
Byles the hunter, and Mr. White, at our first outspan. Passed several
pretty trees (of the cactus family) and the siequarre trees, which bear
long leaves, and at this season of the year dead flowers. Wild cotton
grows in this region, and a plant called obendly, another kind of
cotton-plant. The natives work up the cotton into long strings, fasten
many together, and use it for tinder, or for sale to traders and
hunters. The fibre is very tough, and if cultivated would be a valuable
article of commerce; the flower is very peculiar, having green leaves;
the pod is five inches in length, has three sides with a rib between,
each side being one and a quarter inches wide, and green; the leaf is
light-green above and white beneath, and grows along the ground. It is
not found to grow south of twenty-one degrees, south latitude. I have
now in my service the Zulu engaged at Makobi's (Dumaka) as forelooper;
Jack, the driver; Dirk, second driver; Mack, the cook and general
servant; Jacob, a Bechuana, and the two Zulu guards.
_29th, Saturday_.--Travelled to-day in three short inspans, through a
fine open country, thickly populated, large kraals in all directions.
People very troublesome, constantly asking for presents, "Tusa," all day
longitude. Weather pleasantly warm, thermometer 90 degrees, a strong
east wind blowing. Bought Kaffir beer for my boys at the Amaboguana, a
large Kaffir station, and outspanned for the night near the large
military station Amagoquana. Bought two Kaffir sheep for three pounds
of beads. The country is well adapted for grazing purposes; the sheep
were in splendid condition, each tail produced from ten to fourteen
pounds of fat.
_30th, Sunday_.--We crossed the Carmarlo drift, and went on to one of
Lo-Bengulu's country stations, Umcarno, which is situated about twelve
miles on the west of Gubuluwayo, where I found the king sitting on his
waggon-box in his kraal, and the Rev. Mr. Sykes and Mrs. Sykes at their
waggon a short distance away.
The rivers that complete the drainage of the eastern portion of the
Mashona country, south of the Mopolo watershed, are the tributaries of
the Sabia river. The most important are the Ingwezi, Lunde, Tokwe, and
several small ones to the north. The Sabia rises in the watershed at an
elevation of 4210 feet above sea-level, flows south for nearly 250
miles, then turns east, then north-east, and enters the Indian Ocean
thirty miles south of Sofala. This river is supposed to be the boundary
between Lo-Bengulu and the chief Umzela on the east.
The country is similar in character to that already described of the
western region, inhabited by the same people, thickly populated, with
many large kraals, most of them perched upon elevated spurs of the
Molopo range and isolated hills. The highest points reach 4780 feet in
altitude. The greater portion of this region is granite, and contains
fine springs. Many of the military kraals have powerful chiefs. From
the watershed the country gradually descends from 4780 feet down to 1690
feet, where the Tokwe and Ingwezi unite, with hills intervening. The
spurs from the watershed run in a south-east direction, the same as the
rivers. There are rice plains and large tracts of wild cotton, which is
indigenous. Many ancient forts are still standing in ruins. Umte,
Piza, and Zimbo have gold-pits near them, as also many others, that
would lead one to suppose that those who worked for gold in this country
built these forts for protection against the natives and the wild
animals, as the country at that time must have swarmed with them.
As a wood-producing country there is no part of Africa which contains
finer or more valuable trees. Almost every kind known in Africa
flourishes here in perfection, and grows to an immense size, mahogany
and ebony being the two most important. The Sabia valley is most
picturesque, and the land is capable of growing everything that is
required; all kinds of grain, vegetables, fruits, rice, cotton, indigo,
spices, oranges, lemons, besides the wild fruit. There are lofty
mountain ranges towards the north, the native name of which is Luputa or
Lobolo.
The climate in the summer is hot, but in winter mild. The lowlands are
subject to fever, the other portions are healthy.
Gold and other minerals are found, the gold in quartz and alluvial, and
if properly prospected would, from ill information obtained, become a
most valuable gold-field; besides the copper and silver that are known
to exist in great quantities along the spurs of the mountain. The
natives state the gold was worked and the forts built by the white men
that once occupied this country, whom they called Abberlomba (men who
made everything), and there is every appearance that it is so, for I am
quite of opinion no African race of these parts ever built these
strongholds, or took the trouble to make such extensive excavations in
the earth as we find all over the country.