The entire length of this river, from the fountain-head to its mouth in
the Indian Ocean, south of Mozambique, is 1550 miles. The small lake
Dilolo, in 11 degrees 30 minutes South latitude, 23 degrees 0 minutes
East longitude, situated in the Lololala region, and within a few miles
of the upper springs of the Kuana, a branch of the Congo; and from
thence falls south and south-east, through Lui Banda, Barotsi, Makololo,
Banyeti, and other tribes, with its many branches, to the Victoria
Falls, and then on to the sea in an easterly direction. The other
important tributaries, taking their rise in the region west of the
above, are the Chobe, Quito, Cubango or Okavango, and many branches in
the country of the Kimbandi and Bunda; the source of the Cubango or
Okavango is but a short distance from the upper springs of the river
Quanza, that passes through Angola to the South Atlantic, and belongs to
the Portuguese. The Chobe takes a winding course south, through a level
and swampy country, full of jungle, past a Kaffir kraal, Matambaya, to
within seventy miles to the west of Linyanti; past that chief's kraal,
in an easterly and north-easterly direction, it enters the Zambese
thirty-seven miles above the Victoria Falls. The Chobe is a large and
broad river with several rapids. There are many streams and laagte
which intersect this extensive and swampy region.
It is a most unhealthy and sickly country, whence it has obtained the
name of the Fever District. The Cubango river: the source of this river
also flows south 19 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, 15 degrees 0
minutes East longitude, the altitude was 3370 feet above sea-level; from
that station the river runs in a south-east direction for fifty-five
miles to Libebe kraal, then in an easterly course winding through the
desert for sixty-five miles to Debabe's kraal, 17 degrees 22 minutes
South latitude, 21 degrees 30 minutes East longitude. Thirty miles
below my station the river Quito joins, which forms a broad and fine
stream. At Debabe's the river turns south-south-east, and receives a
new name, the Tonga; one portion flowing into the Chobe; the other
continuing, with many turns and windings, for 220 miles, finally
entering the north-west corner of Lake N'gami at an altitude of 2813
feet, receiving in its course the Laagte Okayanka that rises in
Ovarapoland at Chambomba vlei, 3900 feet above sea-level, flowing east,
and enters the Tonga 110 miles below Debabe town, where the country is
full of swamps, with outlets into the Mababe river. Lake N'gami is
forty-five miles long when full, and about ten miles in width, very
shallow, and is getting less every year. The western end is in 20
degrees 25 minutes South latitude, 22 degrees 38 minutes East longitude.
There are several small streams which flow into it in the rainy season.
On the eastern side the Zouga river joins it, sometimes flowing into
it, and sometimes out; the direction of the current depending on the
rainfall. The Zouga, from the lake, winds easterly through a flat
country for eighty miles, then turns south for 130 miles to Kumadua
vlei, and then north-east for sixty miles, and joins the great
Makarakara brak vlei, which is nearly fifty miles across, where five
streams enter it on the eastern side from the watershed that passes
through the Matabeleland, viz. the Nata, Quabela, Shuari, Mia, and Tua.
The Zouga river having such a perfect level, the water in April and May
flows easterly, in June and July westerly. The only outlet for the
surplus water of the Zouga, lake, and vlei, is the Mababe into the
Chobe; and when all are full, and no stream flowing, the water in the
Mababe goes north or south according to the rain. If a great rush of
water comes out of the lake or vlei, the Mababe is the outlet which
connects the lake system with the Zambese, and the hippopotami find
their way up from the latter river into the Zouga. The length of the
Mababe from these two points is 200 miles, but there are several
watercourses throughout this region, more particularly round the hilly
district of Ngwa hills, traversing the country in all directions; pans
and vleis intersect this extensive district, many of them extensive--the
Sira and Etwetwe are considerable.
The tributaries to the east of the Victoria Falls to the coast comprise
the following:--Daka, Zimboya, Gwaii with its many branches, Sebuana,
Lohala, Sinyaki, Lozenza, Banyeka, Panyama, Zingisi, Nake, Luenya,
Landeen, Sankatsi, Zangwe; all of them take their rise in the watershed
of the Molopo and Lobolo mountains. The principal known tributaries on
the north of the Zambese are the Shire, which enters it ninety miles
from the mouth--it is a broad and extensive river, being the outlet to
the waters of the Lake Shirwa--the Kewubue, Loangwa, Kafue, Majecla,
Luamba, and many intervening branches not yet sufficiently surveyed.
This comprises the Zambese basin, the most valuable and important region
in South Central Africa.