[This chapter concludes the list of the Bechuana family in South Central
Africa, and also of that portion lying to the north of this family, on
to the Chobe and Zambese, which has not been fully described in the
account given in the Kalahara desert.]
The territory claimed by this chief, a branch of the Bakalahari tribe of
the Bechuana family, joins on to the chief Khama's from the Makapolo
Vlei, which is situated 110 miles south of the town of Batuana, where
the chief Molemo lives, along the former chief's boundary on to Sira
pan, where it leaves Khama's territory, and strikes west to Kabats Hill
on to the Mababe river, where the continuation of the Okavango falls in;
up that river to the Tonga, then due south to Omdraai, Ghanz lime-pits
to Makapolo Vlei, Lake N'gami being nearly in the centre of this chief's
territory. All north and east of this lake is flat, and in many parts
contains extensive swamps and lagoons, swarming with crocodiles,
hippopotami, iguanas, snakes, and other creeping things. The miasma
rising from these low-lying grounds, where the decomposition of all
vegetation under the tropical sun brings on fever, is very fatal to
Europeans. During the dry season, from May to September, there is very
little danger in travelling through this region. The Tonga, or as some
call it, the Teoghe, the continuation of the Cubango, or as it is
sometimes called, the Okavango Quito. Down the Tonga from the northern
boundary are many rapids. The water entering the north-west point of
Lake N'gami, the principal portion of the waters of the above rivers is
lost in those extensive swamps, and eventually falls into the Chobe.
Natives live on some of the islands and along their borders. Very fine
timber, particularly the baobab, grow along these banks. The Zouga or
Bot-let-le river is the outlet of the waters of Lake N'gami, but the
flow of water down the Tonga is not sufficient to keep even the lake
full, consequently there is little surface-water to supply the Zouga.
If there is at any time a great rush into the lake, the surplus water is
carried to the Chobe, through the Mababe river, the southern portion of
which is called the Tamabakan. The population is only to be found along
the banks of the lake and rivers. Batuana is a large town with several
traders who assisted me in many ways, and were very kind. Mr. Skelton
was doing an extensive business; he formerly kept a store at Secheles,
but he is since dead. The huts are circular, made of mud with high
thatched roofs. Some portion of the people dress in good English
clothes. The father of Molemo, Leshulitebes, was very fond of dressing
well, and very partial to patent leather boots and a tall hat.
Bell Valley is on the south-west of the lake, where there are many large
baobab trees. Close to Mamahahuie, a kraal on the Walfish Bay road, is
an outspanning station. Beyond is Quarantine Vlei, Mozelenza,
Sebubumpie, Konies, all within a radius of ten miles, occupied by the
Batuanas, a branch of the Bakalahari tribe of the Bechuana family; the
same as the chief Khama who, sixty years ago, came and settled here,
subjugating the former people, and intermarried with them. Twenty miles
from Molemo's town is Lesatsilebes, another large kraal, Ma Tabbin,
opposite where the Mababe flows out of the Zouga. The country north of
the last-named river is intersected with Langte, large and small pans in
every direction; sand everywhere, but good grass in the rainy season.
On the south of the river the Nyabisani flats extend a long way up to
Goose Vleis, south of the Makkapolo hills, long open flats and thickly
wooded in places, palms and every other tropical tree grow. Game of
every kind is found in this region, but very wild. I shot a gemsbok
early in the morning. They are pretty animals, rather larger than a
zebra, nearly the colour of a donkey, with black marks down the back and
along the flanks, whitish legs marked with black band, light face with
black down the front, long black tail almost touching the ground, a
stand-up mane, and a long bunch of hair on the chest, horns perfectly
straight with sharp points, and this one had horns three feet eight
inches in length. They have been known to transfix a lion, they being
found both dead together.
Roads from the lake branch off to Linyanti on the Chobe, to the Victoria
Falls 320 miles, to Ba-Mangwato 335 miles, to Secheles 350 miles, to
Walfish Bay 680 miles, and to the Orange river 650 miles. The country
over which this chief rules is comprised in the Kalahara desert.
This country is on the south of the Zambese, the eastern boundary joins
up to the chief Khama's, and south by the chief Molemo. The Chobe
passes through the central part, from the west to where it enters the
Zambese, thirty-seven miles above the Victoria Falls. It has often been
a question which is the main stream of the Zambese, the Chobe, or the
northern branch. Between these two streams is the Barutsie Valley, and
on the north bank of the Chobe is a large kraal, Linyanti, where the
chief Skeletu resided.
For many years there have been continual wars going on between the
Makopolo or Makololo and the Barutsie tribe, who lived on the north bank
of the northern branch of the Zambese, under the chief Sesheke, fighting
for the chieftainship. Skeletu is dead, Wana Wana was killed, and
Sesheke, or, as some spell his name, Shesheke, has been murdered by his
subjects for his cruelties. The country supports an immense number of
cattle, and it is also the elephant country; so no European has been
allowed to hunt in that region. The Makopolos or Makololos, once the
most powerful tribe in this part of Africa, have been dispersed and
destroyed, a few only escaping, and they now live with the mixed races
along the several rivers. There are many kraals along the various
streams, and in the hill district of Ngwa, intersected by many
watercourses; Sekelula, Linyanti, are some of the most noted. The
Kabats Hill is on the southern border. It is thickly wooded, with the
Mapani tree, palms, baobab, and nearly all kinds of tropical plants, as
also the wild grape. In the northern portion of the Barutsie Valley, on
the banks of the Zambese, are also many important native kraals:
Mosamko, Nambewe, Konye, Nobombo, Nomite, and others. As I have already
stated, Shesheke lived on the north bank, as also Sekhosi, thirty miles
higher up the river. This entire country is now under the chief of the
Barutsie tribe. There is also a large native location higher up the
Chobe beyond Linyanti, Matambaya, and many villages on its bank.
Wild cotton is abundant all over this country, which is suitable for its
growth, and may be, if properly cultivated, the finest cotton-field in
the world. Wild game of every description abounds in this extensive and
unhealthy portion of Africa.
The Chobe was followed up to 16 degrees 40 minutes, south latitude,
where two branches come down from the north. The Chobe is a fine river,
with many rapids and falls, and swarms with crocodiles and hippopotami,
snakes and iguana.
The natives have many canoes and are great fishermen, using a kind of
harpoon for the larger fish. The Mambo natives are very expert in this
sport and lay traps for them. Bows and arrows and spears are the
general weapons used, but many guns have been introduced into the
country of late years. The arrows are poisoned with the seed of a plant
that is a runner, very large, the petals long, flowers yellow, from
which the poison is extracted.
I met with several of the Wayeiye natives on the Tonga, who hunt the
hippopotamus and crocodile. When at my station on that river, opposite
Nakane village, in 1867, a curious affair occurred, which shows the
wonderful amount of sense and affection crocodiles possess. A little
below my waggon, a native boy caught a young crocodile about a foot in
length, and took it up to the huts, and put it into an old basket.
About two hours afterwards, my driver called out there was a large
crocodile crawling up the bank, and making for the hut where the young
one was in the basket, the natives running away. On looking out of my
waggon, sure enough, a large one, about eleven feet in length, was up to
the basket, when my Kaffirs ran up with rifles and shot it. The
distance of the hut from the river was over 100 yards. It was
impossible to say how the mother found out the whereabouts of her baby;
it might have been by smell, or she might have seen the boy put it into
the basket. I have heard many similar statements from the natives, of
the old ones following their young when taken, but put little faith in
them until I absolutely saw for myself the truth of these statements.
Crocodiles are also very tender over their eggs; they scratch a hole in
the sand, lay about a dozen, then cover them with sand, and watch with
great care until the young come forth.
The altitude of Linyanti above sea-level is 2813 feet, the same as the
water-level of the Chobe, Lake N'gami, river Zouga, and the large brak
vlei Makarakara, showing the perfect level of these points. This
country is full of pans and vleis, dense bush, sand everywhere, not a
stone to be seen in all this region. At a vlei called Sixteen Vlei, the
road goes to the Victoria Falls; but with all its flatness, there is an
indescribable charm in travelling through it; there are so many novel
objects to take the attention of an explorer, in addition to hunting,
and sometimes being hunted by the large game when stalking them in the
dense bush or under lofty trees, far away from the human world. One may
die and be forgotten, and no one may ever hear how. My death has been
reported twice, at different times, to the Governor of the Cape, once by
the Rev. Mr. Thomas, of Shiloh in Matabeleland, in 1869, that I had
been killed by the Makalakas, in the desert, my waggon destroyed, and
property taken, and my friends in the Colony in duty bound were mourning
my loss for several years, as I had not been down south, having treked
far in beyond any white traders, and was never heard of.
I was pursuing my work in blissful ignorance of the many tears that had
been shed for the lone traveller in savage lands. When I came south,
after being buried three years, calmly treking along with my waggon,
oblivious of the scare I should create amongst my friends, so fully
convinced were they that the report of my death or murder was correct,
that, on presenting myself in the flesh, many of them could not for some
time realise they were looking upon a mortal man. Information was
forwarded to his Excellency the Governor, that I had turned up from the
far interior, in sound health and strength as man could wish to be.
The other occasion was when I was in the North Kalahara desert, away for
nearly three years, over all those northern regions up to the Zambese,
and in this particular region. Natives came down and reported to the
missionary at Secheles, that the Karkabrio Bushmen had burnt my waggon,
and that myself and people had been speared. Again the report was sent
on to the Government at Cape Town, and again my second resurrection took
place, much to the delight of my friends, who had given up all hope of
my ever returning from a country so entirely beyond the limit of the
hunter or the traveller. It is true, I have had some very narrow
escapes in passing through regions where hostile tribes occupy the
country; particularly in Damara and Ovampoland, and amongst the southern
Bushmen who once infested the Cape Colony. Fever and the perils of
hunting were never thought of. To avoid the former never take unboiled
water; weak cold tea, if possible, or weak brandy and water, will in a
great measure prevent it, with an occasional dose of quinine. Sunstroke
can also be avoided by wearing a very high-crowned, broad-brimmed felt
hat, with several holes as ventilators, with a light kerchief inside the
hat on the head, which cuts off the fierce rays of the sun from the
brain. Though I have spent so many years under a tropical sun, exposed
daily and all day long to its perpendicular rays, I have never once felt
the slightest indication of sunstroke, which I attribute to the above
precaution.