MY FIRST START ACROSS THE DRAKENSBERG MOUNTAINS--VISIT HARRYSMITH,
WAKKERSTROOM, UTRICH, NEWCASTLE, HOME.
Early in the morning of the fourth found me ready for a start for a four
months' trip before plunging into the unknown land. My little
expedition consisted of a waggon and fourteen trek oxen, a young
four-year-old Natal horse, my driver and two Zulu boys, myself and young
Talbot, well provisioned for my journey. Leaving my kind friends, I
took the road to Ladysmith, but turned off to the left before reaching
that town, and took the Transport Road, leading to Harrysmith in the
Free State, over the mountain, passing up by Van Reenen's Pass, a very
steep and long hill, the altitude being 7250 feet above sea-level, and
arrived at Harrysmith on the 18th of September, 1863, where I outspanned
close to the town. The country along the whole distance up to the berg
is very pretty and picturesque. From the base of the berg to the summit
the distance is about five miles, with a rise of 2000 feet, that being
the difference in the altitude between the upper or northern part of
Natal and the Orange Free State, consequently being so much higher and
open, makes the winter much colder. From this elevation, and looking
back upon Natal, a more lovely or extensive landscape can scarcely be
imagined. To the right and left huge rocks stand out on the rugged
summits in those grotesque forms from which descend perpendicular cliffs
and deep kloofs clothed in subtropical vegetation, between which long
spurs of the mountain are thrown out, terminating in rolling plains and
beyond lofty hills and deep valleys. Far away, on the right, continues
the Drakensberg, with its lofty and noble peaks rearing their heads far
into the clouds that hang on their summits in loving embrace, until they
are lost to view in the pale tints of the evening sky, leaving the
central view open to the sea, 120 miles to the coast, where the bluff at
Port Durban can be distinguished overlooking the intervening country
with its plains and hills.
It was here, at the Bushman's Pass, 9000 feet high, that the sad affair
with Langalibalele's tribe occurred. A number of them had been at the
diamond-fields, where they had procured guns for wages. No Kaffirs in
Natal are allowed to have guns, except a few hundred, by special
licence, and the sale of gunpowder is all in the hands of the
Government, white men even not being allowed more than ten pounds a
year, and they cannot import guns without a special permission from the
Government.
The entire immunity of Natal, from its first annexation, from Kaffir
wars, which have caused so much waste of blood and treasure at the Cape,
is owing chiefly to this wise law, which is so rigidly enforced that a
number of guns were seized which had been made in Natal, at a cost of 2
pounds 10 shillings each. The barrels were gas-pipes, whilst good
muskets could have been imported at 5 shillings each. All the Cape wars
have been caused by the omission of this simple precaution.
The Natal border Zulu chief Langalibalele had been a rebel from his
youth upwards. He rebelled against Panda, the Zulu king, and barely
escaped into Natal with a few followers, leaving all his cattle behind.
Shortly after he returned, killed the keepers of the cattle, and took
them into Natal. There he was given about the best "location" on the
beautiful spot here described in the Drakensberg. Many refugees from
Zululand joined him, and his tribe became powerful. But they were
always restless and contumacious. At last about 250 of them brought
back from the diamond-fields the guns which they had received for wages,
and when called upon to give them up refused to do so, or even--as
subsequently allowed--to send them in to be registered, and they
insulted the messengers sent by the Government. A force was
consequently marched into the location, and as the whole tribe was about
to depart into the Zulu country with the cattle, a proceeding which was
against all Kaffir law, the passes of the mountains were occupied, to
prevent their escape, by volunteers, and the soldiers were kept below.
To the Bushman's Pass a force of about twenty of the Natal carbineers
(cavalry) was sent up. The pass, 9000 feet high, was so steep that they
could not ride, but had to lead their horses, in doing which Colonel
Durnford (killed at Isandhlwana), who commanded the party, was pulled
down a rock by his horse, and his shoulder dislocated. It was pulled in
at once, but being a delicate man the pain and fatigue overcame him
entirely, and he was obliged to remain behind, while the rest went on
and bivouacked on the pass. During the night, young Robert Erskine, son
of the Colonial Secretary, went down twice to his assistance, taking
brandy, etc., and eventually he got him on to his horse and up to his
men. Early next morning a part of the tribe, with the cattle, came up,
the rest having passed before, and occupied the rocks around, being
armed with guns.
Unfortunately, the Governor of Natal had got it into his head that he
was a born soldier, and had accompanied the soldiers who were below. As
the captain of the volunteers knew no drill, and could not move the men,
the Governor--who was weakly allowed by the colonel in command to
dictate--sent Major Durnford, an engineer--who knew no more than the
captain about manoeuvring men--in command, and to this folly added a mad
injunction "not to fire first!" in obedience to which Durnford allowed
the tribe to keep coming up. Erskine, who had been private secretary to
the former governor, and who knew the tribe well, having lived among
them sketching, and having had twenty-five of them working for him at
the diamond-fields, offered to go down the pass and remonstrate with the
chiefs who were below. Major Durnford would not allow it, saying that
he had saved his life, and it was certain death. The tribe kept coming
up and lining the rocks, calling out, "You'll never see your mother
again! That's my horse! That's my saddle!" etc.
At last a cowardly fellow, a drill-sergeant, formerly in the Cape
Mounted Rifles, who had been allowed to join the force as dry-nurse,
persuaded the men that they would all be killed, and they sent their
captain to Durnford to say so, and that as he would not allow them to
fire they would not stay. On which Durnford called out, "Will nobody
stand by me?" when Erskine said, "I will, major," and another, Bond,
said so, as also did one more. Durnford then said, "If you will not
stand by me you must go;" and not knowing the cavalry word, the
drill-sergeant gave the word, "Fours right! right wheel! Walk! March!"
As they filed past the rocks, the Zulu in command called, "Don't fire
until they have passed," and they then fired and shot down the whole
rear section, and the rest galloped off, except Durnford, who was
drinking at the source of the Orange river. His bridle was seized by
two Zulus, and one wounded him in the shoulder. Although one arm was
disabled, with the other he shot them both, and escaped.
At the same time the Kaffir interpreter, who fought gallantly, was
killed, and Erskine also, whose horse was shot down, was shot through
the head and heart, in the source of the Orange river. One of the four,
whose horse had been shot down, caught Erskine's horse, which had got up
again, and escaped on him for a space. The horse then fell dead, and
two of the men dismounted and covered him, shooting some of the Zulus
who were coming on. He caught Durnford's spare horse running by, and
after some delay and danger from a shower of bullets, succeeded in
getting Erskine's saddle on to the horse, and escaped. Durnford tried
in vain to rally the men, and they went helter-skelter down the pass,
the captain--afraid to ride down--being sledged down on his stern.
The bodies were allowed to remain there several days, although there was
not a Zulu near, and then they were buried by Durnford under a large
cairn, erected with rocks, interspersed with the beautiful heaths and
flora growing around. Erskine's body was found in the source itself of
the Orange river. The people erected a handsome monument to their
memory in the market-square at Maritzburg, and another to those who fell
at Isandhlwana--about thirty. Thus, out of a troop of fifty,
thirty-three of the Natal volunteer carbineers fell in these two affairs
owing, on both occasions, to the grossest mismanagement. _Ne sutor
ultra crepidam_!
The tribe was afterwards hunted for two months in these mountains by
volunteers only, and captured with their chief, Langalibalele, who was
sent to the Cape, and kept more comfortably than he ever was in his
life, in a nice house and grounds, with entire freedom to move about,
his only grievance being that he was not allowed more than three of his
wives, the cause of this distressing privation being simply that the
balance would not come. An absurd proposition was sent out by the Home
Government lately that he should be allowed to return to Natal, but it
was promptly quashed by that Government. _Coelum non animum mutant qui
trans mare currunt_, as was proved in the case of Cetewayo's
restoration, "who had learnt and forgotten nothing."
This, if it can be called one, is the only rebellion ever known, or
likely to be known, in Natal, where the Kaffirs are thoroughly loyal.
Shortly before this a little raid was made into Natal by one of
Moshesh's sons, when two natives were killed and some cattle lifted. A
force was sent up, too late, and _en route_ the Colonial Secretary and
Secretary for Native Affairs, who were sitting in a waggon, were
watching a tribe, when they diverted, and forming regularly into line
their orator ran out, and running as they do up and down made an
oration, "There's the Government in the waggon! What's the meaning of
this? Why is this land invaded? Why are our people killed and our
cattle stolen? Why were we not called out sooner? Was it that we are
not trusted? Wow!! There sit under that waggon Langalibalele's people!
Who are they? Dogs! that we used to hunt down; and would again, if not
prevented by the Government."
Sir T. Shepstone did not even condescend to address them himself, but
in a few words, through an interpreter, told them they were quite loyal,
had the approval of the great Queen, and could _pass on_, which they
did, moving off by companies from the right, like soldiers, and singing
a war song, making the earth tremble with their stamping. [On such
occasions extraordinary licence of speech is allowed by the Zulus.] All
these tribes would fight well for us _at first_ if there were to be a
rising outside, but after a bit they would join their own kind, as they
both feel and say that white and black blood can never mingle because we
despise them.
The great change in climate and vegetation is very perceptible on
leaving fair Natal for the cold, dreary, open, and inhospitable Free
State. Harrysmith, in 1863, was a poor, dull, sleepy town, only
supported and kept alive by a few transport riders on their way to the
Transvaal and the small villages of the Free State. But after the
annexation of the former State by the British Government in 1877, it
soon became a town of importance, and being on the main road from Natal,
large and well-built stores, houses, churches, and schools soon put life
into its inhabitants. Thanks to British gold for turning a howling
wilderness into a land of promise!
I remained two days to gain news and information about the locality, and
the various roads to the north; game being plentiful in all directions,
principally blesbok and springbok, wildebeest or gnu, quaggas,
hartebeest, and others. The ostrich was also plentiful. I decided to
follow the game up, taking the advice of my Natal friend, who had
recently returned from his shooting excursion. I took the road leading
east, and less frequented than the others, which eventually leads to the
newly-formed town of Wakkerstroom, on the eastern border of the
Transvaal, and also north from that town to Lydenburg, now the gold
centre. Anxious to make the most of my time, as I had to return to
Natal before starting on my grand explorations to obtain a fresh driver
and two Kaffirs, I was constantly in the saddle after anything that
crossed my path, travelling slowly on, shooting as much game as we
required for the road. To shoot more would be mere waste, although the
Boers make a practice of killing as many as they can for the sake of the
skins, leaving the dead animals to be devoured by lions, wolves, or any
other animal.
One night, as we were outspanned on the bank of a dry sluit, close to a
small but thickly wooded koppie (hill) and large blocks of stone, we
were disturbed by hearing the roar of two or more lions, within a very
short distance of our camp. Not having made any preparation to receive
visitors of this kind, we were all soon on our feet with rifles. The
fire had gone out, but the stars gave some little light, sufficient to
see all safe, particularly my horse. We were all on the watch, peering
into the darkness, when we saw two lions cross over from the opposite
bank and enter the near koppie. I was told before starting, by several
old hunters, never to shoot at a lion when near, if it can be avoided,
unless certain of killing; for if only wounded he would attack before
you could reload.
Our anxiety was for the safety of our oxen and horse, fearing they might
get away and be caught by the lions. I made the two Kaffirs collect a
few sticks, and with what was left from last night made a fire, which
threw a light into the bushes, where we saw our two friends enter, and
shortly after I saw a pair of eyes shining like fire from out of the
wood within thirty yards. If I could have depended on my Kaffirs, all
being armed, he would certainly have had the contents of my rifle, but
knowing them to be bad shots when cool, and that they would have been
worse than useless in time of danger, to my great disgust was I obliged
to stand and watch only. As they left the koppie, they made a circuit
of my camp, but at a greater distance. Taking the two rifles from the
young Kaffirs, placing them against the fore-wheel of the waggon, to be
ready at a moment's notice, I could not resist so fine a chance of a
shot in the open, only fifty yards distant; the light of the fire giving
out a good glare, I had a full view, and fired, and found I had wounded
one--the thud of the bullet is sufficient to know that. My driver, a
fine Zulu, and young Talbot, had their rifles ready in case he charged,
which he did, in short bounds. As he neared, they both fired and both
hit, but not sufficiently to kill him; but he was unable to move, as his
hind-quarters were rendered powerless. Reloading, we walked up, and I
gave him a bullet as near the heart as I could, when he fell over; the
other we saw moving away into the darkness--a fine full-grown lion with
dark mane. This was the third lion that had fallen by my rifle. The
little affair detained us the following day, skinning and pegging out to
dry in the sun, in addition to several other skins of the game shot on
the road, eleven in all. When a skin is taken from an animal, I
sprinkle a little salt over it, then roll it up, to be pegged out at a
convenient opportunity.
The next day we made a fresh move towards a lofty isolated hill in the
Free State, which we reached in two inspans, and crossing a stony sluit,
outspanned under a few trees, close to some very ancient stone walls
built without mortar. They were square and some twelve feet high. The
open plains were full of game of many kinds. Wishing to explore this
hill, early in the morning after coffee I took my rifle to climb to the
topmost ridge, letting John have the horse to get a springbok. After
rambling about the hill, scanning the country all round, I was coming
down when I nearly stumbled on a wolf (hyena), which must have been
asleep amongst the stones. I was within twenty feet when I fired,
killing him at once. Not far away were two large black eagles; the
report of the rifle seat them soaring away into space. About half-way
down the hill I saw two stones that had evidently been cut into shape by
a mason; they looked like coping-stones, with well-marked lines, and
perfectly square. I took their measure and a sketch of each, both of
them exactly a foot in length and six inches wide. They evidently
belonged to some ancient building, but when? is a question not so easily
solved. But other stone huts two days' trek beyond were clearly erected
by a race long since passed away; they were circular, with circular
stone roofs, and nearly two feet thick, of partly hewn stone,
beautifully made; a stone door with lintels, sills, and door-plates.
Kaffirs have never been known to build in this way. Between each hut
there was a straight stone wall, five feet in height, with doorways and
lintels, communicating with each square enclosure, perfect specimens of
art. They were, I believe, erected by the same people who worked the
gold-mines, the remains of which we frequently find in the Transvaal and
the Matabele, and beyond, where so many of their forts still remain. In
the Marico district there are two extensive remains of these stone
towns, which must, from their extent, have occupied many years to
complete. The outer wall that encloses the whole is six feet thick, and
at the present time five feet high. Several large trees are growing out
and through the roof of some of them. They are how the abode of the
leopard, jackal, and wolf, and so hidden by bush they, are not seen
until you are close upon them. Broken pieces of pottery are the only
things I have discovered. The present natives know nothing of them;
they are shrouded in mystery. Many remains of old walls are standing,
showing that at one time this upper part of the Free State must have
been thickly populated. At this outspan I killed a yellow snake, three
feet in length, with _four legs_, but not made for locomotion. I heard
there were such in Natal, but this is the first I have seen. When he
found he could not make his escape, he curled himself into a circle,
with his head raised to strike similar to other snakes. I consigned him
to a bottle of spirits. I also shot one of those beautiful blue jays,
as there were many in this district.
I pass over my shooting exploits, as there is nothing worth recording,
each daily trek being almost a repetition of the last, until we arrive
in sight of Wakkerstroom, a poor village, a few houses, flat roofs,
single floors, built in an open country near a lofty hill, which stands
on the main road from Natal to Lydenburg; we remained only a few days,
then went north, as far as Lake Crissie, an open piece of water, no
trees or bushes near; a solitary sea-cow is the only occupant of this
dismal-looking place. In this district the Vaal river rises, and many
small branches meet, until the veritable river is formed. The elevation
at the lake was 5613 feet, and on a hill a few miles north I found the
altitude above sea-level to be 6110 feet, an open grass undulating
country as far as the eye could see, except on the east, where the
mountain range that forms the Quathlamba is seen in the distance. I
retraced part of the road, and turned south-east, over the hills leading
to where Lunenburg now stands, and on towards Swaziland, which is an
independent native territory, thickly populated and very mountainous;
there are rich gold-mines there now, and some of the mountains attain an
altitude of 8000 feet.
The greater part of the summer months, a mist envelops the hills, but it
is a very healthy part of Africa, and horse sickness is rarely known to
exist, consequently many horses are bred here. Passing Kruger's post,
through Buffel forest, which is hilly, and splendid timber trees cover
the entire country, the scenery is grand and wild; quartz reefs crop out
in all directions, sandstone, shale, and in some places limestone
overlap the granite formation, which compose these lofty ridges of the
Drakensberg; shale, which indicates the existence of coal, is frequently
seen in the valleys, and along the Pongola river and its several
branches.
I left Harrysmith on the 20th September, 1863, arriving on the banks of
the Pongola river on the 16th October. In that time I had treked 350
miles, being delayed on the road shooting and exploring.
The people at Wakkerstroom wanted to know what I was doing in the
country, as I did not handel (trade), and was not a smouser, the term
applied to those who went about the country in waggons to sell and buy.
They would not believe I came into the country for pleasure and to
shoot, but I was set down as an English spy, as I took notes and made
sketches of the country. When I showed them a small drawing of the town
with the hill at the backhand people walking about, they held it upside
down, and said it was _mooi_ (pretty). Most of the Boers are very slow
in comprehending anything, the women are much quicker, and turned the
picture round, and knew it at once, as also some Kaffir girls, pointing
to the figures, naming whom they represented with expressions of
delight. Some of the girls seem to have a natural gift for drawing and
the beauties of nature, pointing out with their finger various objects,
and explaining to those around what the drawing represented. I have
often thought that many of these bright Kaffir girls might make good
artists with proper training. Mrs. Colenso taught some to draw, paint,
and play and sing. When they were about sixteen their father came for
them, and they, quite delighted, ran off, stripped off their clothes,
and went off naked, and never returned, just like some wild pigeons I
had once tamed. They are also quite alive to the ridiculous: in the
sketch were two horses playing, one standing with his fore-feet in the
air; this caught their attention at once, causing great amusement, and
imitating their action. They belonged to the Mantatees or Mahowas
tribe, which is divided into many kraals under various chiefs, all
subject to the head chief Secocoene, who lives on the north of
Lydenburg. The Pongola skirts the Swazi, or, as it is sometimes called,
the Amaswasiland, a very mountainous country; the people are Zulus,
their habits and mode of fighting being the same. Many of these people
came to my waggon with milk, which I took in exchange for tobacco and
beads. The men are a fine manly race, and the women, many of them,
good-looking, but very scanty in their dress, which is only a little
strip of beads an inch wide. The Swazi country is situated between the
eastern boundary of the Transvaal and the Amatonga, which is the
northern part of Zululand, up to the Portuguese settlement in Delagoa
Bay on the east side. It is governed by an independent chief, their
laws and language being the same as the Zulus. The country has every
indication of being rich in gold, some specimens of quartz I obtained
from reefs running through the country looked very promising. The
Pongola Bush, as it is called, is a beautiful forest of fine timber
trees. Some of the most valuable are the Bosch Gorrah, of a scarlet
colour, fine grain; Ebenhout, a sort of ebony; Borrie yellow,
Bockenhout, no regular grain; Assagaai, used for spear handles; Wild
Almond, Grelhout, Saffraan, Stinkwood, Speckerhout, Wild Fig, Umghu,
Witgatboom, Tambooti; White Ironwood, very hard, and many others of
great use for many purposes. The Pongola river is very pretty; passing
down through a richly-wooded district, with its tributaries, flowing
east and then north it joins the beautiful river Usutu, which enters the
south side of Delagoa Bay. The Usutu river drains the greater portion
of the Amaswasiland with its many branches; it rises on the east side of
the Veldt and Randsberg, that is the continuation of the watershed from
Natal, already described, which separates the waters of the South
Atlantic and the Indian Ocean, some of the springs of the Usutu rising
within a few miles of the upper springs of the Vaal, near Lake Crissie.
The principal tributaries of the former river are the Umtaloos, Lobombo,
Assagaai, Impeloose, Umkonto, and Umkompies, all uniting in the Swazi
country; then it flows east, through a beautiful break in the Lobombo
Mountains, and enters Delagoa Bay, as before described. For beauty of
scenery and picturesque views, with the deep glens, ravines, and thickly
wooded kloofs of every variety of tint, few views in Africa will surpass
them, and some day, when the country is prospected, if the Swazis will
permit it, I believe it will be found to be a rich gold-bearing country,
both alluvial and in the quartz. I went several times into the
river-beds to prospect, the natives following me, watching my actions,
but of course not knowing what I was looking for. As the time was
drawing short I left the Pongola, and treked down to Eland's Neck, where
the country was more open, and on a small branch of that river, close to
a very pretty waterfall, are many fine tree-ferns, that grow to a great
size. Here we were again in the clouds on the Elandsberg, at an
elevation of 6000 feet, and overlooking Zululand, with the distant
mountain in the background. With my boys to feed--and no small quantity
satisfies them--the rifles were in constant use, and in an unknown
country it is never safe to go any distance from the waggon without one.
The Zulus have no other weapons than the assagai or knobkerrie. Wolves
were nightly visitors; several we shot, but not a lion was to be seen or
heard. There were many leopards and panthers in the mountains, but they
did not trouble us. My driver being a Zulu as well as the other boys, I
got on very well with the people at the kraals I passed, and the girls
came without any fear. In fact we always got on well with them, having
provided myself with brass wire and beads, the principal articles in
demand, as clothes they do not wear. They are exceedingly clean in
their persons, and very fond of bathing. One afternoon I saddled-up,
and started for the open to get a buck. Passing through the bush to the
river, I came upon nearly fifty black women bathing in the stream. Some
scampered out on the other side, then stood and looked at the white man;
the greater number kept in the water splashing about, for it was not
deep enough to swim, and laughing and cheering, showing their beautiful
white teeth, not in the least afraid. It is true I had been nearly a
week outspanned near their two separate kraals, and they were daily at
my waggon with milk, so that I was to a certain extent known to them,
few white men being seen down so far in that part of Zululand.
_November 30th_.--It was time to make a move homewards. I therefore
prepared for a start, and the following morning took the road towards
Natal, stopping at Deepkloof on my way, leaving on the right some very
picturesque and lofty hills; not a farm-house to be seen. Having shot
plenty of game for the road to last many days, by turning it into
biltong, pushed on early the next morning, passing down one of the most
stony and difficult passes to be met with in Africa, running against
trees, which had to be cut down, breaking one of the oxen's horns, which
had got fixed in the branches of a tree, and with difficulty I saved the
waggon from being smashed. The view from this hill, looking west, was
very fine, an open plain beneath us with lofty hills on the right and
left, open to the south and west, where a distant view of the lofty
peaks of the Drakensberg could be seen; the distance in a straight line
being over eighty miles; so clear is the atmosphere they did not seem
more than half that distance.
The next day about noon I came to a Boer farm, where we procured some
milk, a little butter, and some meal. The comfortless manner in which
these people live is surprising, and the dirt displayed about the
premises would shock many a poor labourer at home. The old Boer asked,
which is always the first question put after shaking hands, "What's your
name? where from? what have I up to handel (sell)?" After replying,
"Then what's the news?" This is the usual salutation at every Boer
farm, and considering their isolation, a very practical one. Coffee is
then handed round, and the tobacco-bag produced, to fill your pipe, as a
matter of course. The old Boer complained sadly of the heavy storms
that had passed over the country, and loss of cattle from lightning, the
old vrow putting in a word occasionally; their three buxom daughters sat
on boxes, looking at the stranger as if he were some unknown kind of
animal from a strange land.
We crossed a small branch of the Buffalo river, leaving the Belslaberg
mountains, covered with bush, on our right. At the back of this range
is a mineral spring on the White river, which is a tributary of the
Pongola, the water being warm when it issues from the ground.
On the morning of the 4th of December, 1863, I started for Natal, on my
backward journey, and treked over an open country in two inspans, and
arrived in the evening on the banks of the Buffalo river, which divides
Natal from the Zulu country, and outspanned for the night, as I never
travel after dark for two reasons: the first, I cannot see the country,
and the second, that I always meet with some accident in travelling a
road not known--breaking desselboom, axle, or some part of the waggon,
sticking in mud-holes that would be avoided in daylight. The Buffalo is
a fine stream, rising in the Drakensberg, passing the town of
Wakkerstroom, and falling into the Tugela twenty miles below the town of
Weenen, where it forms a broad stream to the sea, dividing Zululand from
Natal. At the outspan there was a Boer with his waggon waiting to go
through, the water being too high to cross; but it was going down,
having risen from the heavy rains, and an accident having happened to
his waggon by the bullocks turning round when treking in the night, from
fright probably by a wild beast, and breaking the desselboom; but on my
arrival I found the young Boer and his vrow sitting by their camp-fire,
taking their evening coffee, and after the usual shaking of hands was
asked to sit, and a Bushman girl was told to give me a cup of coffee;
afterwards, of course, a smoke.
Having made my waggon ready for the night, and looked after the boys and
oxen, I took my evening meal with John; then walked over to the Boer
waggon for a chat, where we remained until bed-time, which was nine
o'clock. Sitting listening to the Boer's various tales of Zulu
fighting, and hunting, and other anecdotes, I found he lived on a farm
some little distance beyond this outspan; his name was Uys, rather a
pleasant kind of man for his class. Probably the father of Piet Uys,
the hero of the Zulu war.
The next morning at sunrise I had a look at the river, which was not
much lower; but an exciting scene was taking place; a flock of about 300
sheep was being swum through, which occupied all the first part of the
morning. I was astonished to see how well they took to the water when
they were in, the difficulty lay in getting them in: some would turn
back, others go down the river; what with the bleating of the sheep, the
shouting of a dozen Kaffir boys and their two Boer masters making a
perfect din of sounds; however, with only the loss of two sheep, they
got them safely over, and as the water was falling fast, everything was
made ready to cross. My friend Uys took the lead. The banks on both
sides being very steep, the breaks had to be screwed home to bring the
waggons safely down to the water. Each waggon had a forelooper, a
Kaffir, to take the fore-tow of the front oxen to keep them straight
towards the opposite drift, otherwise they might take it into their
heads to go down stream, and all would be lost. On his return from one
of his expeditions on the east coast, Mr. St. Vincent Erskine, the
traveller, on reaching Natal bought a horse, and as he had to swim
several rivers he put his journal for safety into a waggon. It was
carried down a river, the oxen and a white girl lost, and his journal.
Long searches were made for it by numbers of Kaffirs, when the river
went down, in vain. _Two years_ afterwards it was found in its tin
case, quite legible, being in pencil. It was in a bush so far above the
river that no one had thought of looking for it.
We reached the bank safely on the opposite side, which is Natal, and
treked on in a westerly course for a few miles, where we outspanned, and
then went on again for a long trek, as there was nothing further to
delay us, and the next day we continued on to a very pretty opening,
close to the river Ineandu; the lofty Drakensberg range on our right,
with its beautiful rugged outline, and deep kloofs, was grand to look
upon. Game was more plentiful here than we had seen for some time, and
we also found lions were not wanting to keep up the excitement during
the night-watch. As we arrived late, there was nothing to do but have
our fires, cook some tea and a slice of a young springbok over the red
embers, with a little salt, mustard, and pepper,--a supper not to be
cast on one side. We were rightly informed, and cautioned not to let
the oxen and horse stray in the bush, but kept them near and in sight,
for lions had considerably increased of late and had done much damage in
carrying off oxen when out in the Veldt. Mr. Evans, the merchant, once
saw forty all together. We therefore made everything fast before going
to sleep, and collected wood for fires, if it were necessary to light
them during the night. My horse would have been a great loss; he was
excellent when out after game, for, on dismounting and throwing the rein
over his head to hang on the ground, he would not move from the spot
until you returned from following up game where a horse could not go.
As there was no moon the night was getting dark, and while we were
sitting round the camp-fire, listening to the boys' tales of some
hunting expeditions they had been in, we were reminded that our friends
the lions were not far away. In the stillness of night, when all is
silent, the sounds made by a lion close at hand in a thick bush
surrounding the camp, the deep tones of his growls, make every one
start, and look around to see if all is safe, and put more wood on the
fires, to throw light into the bush, and take our rifles which had been
left in the waggon. Although we could not see them, we knew they were
close at hand; others were heard in the distance, and would no doubt
come nearer; sleep was out of the question, as a vigilant watch was
necessary, in case they might make an attack on our oxen. Wolves also
began to enliven the night-air with their sounds, and occasionally a
jackal was heard. With the exception of a few scares, when they came
too close to the waggon, the night passed off very well, and a lovely
bright morning succeeded. We inyoked the oxen, and treked at daylight--
saddling up the horse, I rode into the bush, but could see nothing
except their footprints in the sand.
From this outspan to Ladysmith occupied five days. The country over
which we travelled was very pretty, and in many places hilly. Ladysmith
is another small town, where we remained the morning, and then started
for the farm, and arrived on the 20th of December, 1863, in time to
spend the Christmas with the old people.
Ladysmith is now the terminus of the railway, 180 miles from D'Urban.
It is to be continued at once to Newcastle, passing through a rich coal
district 100 miles, where it will be only about fifty miles from the
nearest gold-fields. Natal only asks the Imperial Government to enable
it to borrow the money at three per cent, for this great strategical
work, which besides reaching the Transvaal, would afford the only
coaling-station in South Africa.