DRESS FOR PARK RIDING, AND THE EXTENDED PACES.
In no department of the charming art of dressing well is a lady so much
shackled by conventional usages as in her "get up" for riding. In all
other kinds of dress, from the full Court costume to simple morning
wrapper, such is the almost endless variety of style that there is
something to suit every woman, from the lady of high degree to "Dolly
Varden," and the "Molly Duster;" and the selection made is conclusive as
to the good or bad taste of the wearer. In riding dress it is altogether
different. "Chimney pot" hats, tight-fitting jackets, and flowing skirts
of orthodox dark rifle-green seem to be _de rigueur_, whatever may be
the figure, style, or complexion of the wearer. I submit (and in this
opinion I am borne out by several accomplished lady riders, to one of
whom I am indebted for the following suggestions) that this is wrong,
and that some modifications as regards shape and colour would be
advantageous both as regards the comfort of the ladies themselves, and
as a matter of taste.
To begin with head-dress. It is manifest that whereas a lady of tall,
lithe figure, with an oval Grecian style of face, and classical contour
of head, will appear to the greatest advantage on horseback in a plain
or gentleman's hat, and with her hair so arranged as to show the outline
of the head and neck, one of the Hebe style of beauty, particularly if
slightly inclined to the "_embon._," if so accoutred, would not look by
any means well. Yet one constantly sees the same sort of head-dress worn
by ladies whose general style is in direct contrast, the reason
presumably being that fashion admits of such little latitude for
choice.
Again, as regards the jacket. A lady of slight figure (for effect) can
scarcely wear anything that fits too close, consistently with her
freedom of motion; but the fair equestrian whose proportions are not
"sylph like" is badly equipped in such a garment.
To revert to the hat for the latter type of lady, the most becoming
style seems to be one with a low crown, and brim more or less wide,
according to the features of the wearer, as such hats admit of great
variety, both in material, and, what is more important, in colour; and
consequently it is not difficult for a lady to obtain that which is
exactly suitable to her both as regards feature and complexion.
Some of these hats for park or road riding, ornamented with ostrich or
other feathers, are exceedingly elegant and becoming, and protect the
skin from the rays of the sun, without any necessity for a veil, which
cannot be said of the plain black or gentleman's hat. For the hunting
field, of course, feathers or ornaments are out of place; but
nevertheless most elegant low-crowned, wide-rimmed hats, made of fine
felt and without ornament, of shapes suitable to every class of feature,
are obtainable in Melton, and I presume are equally accessible in
London.
The form of jacket most suitable for a lady whose proportions incline to
fulness is a tunic, made Hussar fashion, that is, it should have two
seams in the back and be well sprung inwards towards the waist without
fitting tight; the short skirt made full, and reaching well down to the
saddle; the sleeves wide. Broad braiding judiciously arranged on such
tunics, too, will have the effect of considerably diminishing the
appearance of redundant fulness of figure in the wearer.
Two rows of braiding, commencing at the lower edge of the tunic behind,
should bend inwards towards the waist; but instead of diverging thence
to the shoulder points, as in a military coat, should pass over the
shoulders, about midway between them and the neck, and thence be
continued with a turn (ornamental or plain) to the front of the tunic on
both sides, and reaching down to its lower extremity. There should be no
braiding round the bottom edges of the jacket. These tunics can be made
either single or double breasted, but in either case should have broad
lappets in front; and neckties of any colour suitable to the wearer's
complexion, arranged as a gentleman ties his neckcloth, and fastened
with gold horseshoe pins, jewelled or plain, are very effective. The
single-breasted tunic should be fastened with hooks and eyes, covered by
the braid; the double-breasted jacket should fasten with plain silk
buttons. The advantage of these tunics is that, while they afford plenty
of room to the rider, and while they in no way cramp her flexibility in
the saddle, they tend to diminish to a degree scarcely conceivable the
appearance of redundant fulness or squareness of form, and give a very
elegant _tournure_ to a figure that would look by no means well in a
tight-fitting jacket.
Again, neckties of moderately large pattern, and ornaments in the way of
feathers and pins, or other fastenings for the cravat, all tend to
diminish to the eye the appearance of weight and size, and as a rule,
are as becoming on horseback to ladies of full figure as rigid plainness
in habits, collars, &c., are to those of spare and delicate form. It
should be borne in mind that it is on the off side that the figure of a
lady equestrian is most critically noticed by the observer. On the near
side the skirt has a great effect in increasing or diminishing the
apparent size and form of the rider. On the off side every defect in
form or dress is patent, and it is on the off side that the gentleman
attendant rides. Close-fitting jackets, then, I repeat; plain
gentleman's hats, with or without lace lappets, and extreme simplicity
of get up, will be most effective on the off side in the case of a lady
of slight figure. The style of hat and tunic I have attempted to
describe is most suitable to those whose _physique_ is more developed.
As regards skirts, a fair amount of fullness, according to the size of
the rider, for road or park, gives a very graceful appearance on the
near side, care of course being taken that the habit is not so long as
to admit of the horse treading on it. For hunting skirts can scarcely be
too circumscribed, as long as they afford the wearer freedom of action.
A word now about colours. I repeat that except in the arbitrary dictum
of fashion there is no warranty for the all but universal prevalence of
dark rifle-green for riding habits. It must be evident that a lady who
is a "brunette" will look far better in a riding dress the colour of
which is dark chocolate or purple than she will in green of any sort;
and on the other hand a "blonde" would be more suitably attired in a
habit of a shade of light blue suitable to her complexion than in
anything of more sombre hue. Again, in the hunting field why should our
patrician ladies who grace these sporting _reunions_, with their
presence, and go as straight and well as any men, shewing always in the
front rank, be debarred by fashion or conventional usage from wearing
scarlet jackets. Scarlet is worn on foot--for opera cloaks, in shawls,
in whole dresses. Why not scarlet on horseback? I saw a lady this season
riding with one of our crack Midland packs who wore a scarlet jacket of
very fine cloth; a light blue silk cravat, fastened with a diamond
horseshoe pin; a skirt of very dark blue, and a plain man's hat of
Melton style. She was a blonde with golden hair, mounted on a bright
chestnut blood-like hunter; and, as she was of slight, lathy figure, and
rode exceedingly well, the _ensemble_ was quite charming. This lady was
the cynosure of all eyes, not only on account of her capital riding but
her dress, which I heard deprecated by some as "_too loud_." My humble
opinion was that it was exactly in harmony with the place and the sport,
most becoming to the wearer, and calculated to give _dash_ and
_brilliancy_ to the _coup d'oeil_ afforded by the field as they
streamed away after the hounds; moreover, the lady herself had that
thoroughbred stamp and aristocratic bearing that would have rendered any
innovation in equestrian costume admissable in her case. But when the
complexion and style of any lady admits of it, I can see no reason why
she should not wear scarlet with foxhounds as well as her brother or her
husband. In summer time, too, is not dark rifle-green or any dark colour
and thick cloth which attracts the rays of the sun to the certain
discomfort of the wearer an absurdity, when the fair equestrian would
look far better, because more seasonably attired, in light grey, light
blue, or even in a habit of perfectly white linen, or similar fabric?
As I have ventured to point out a pleasing alteration of conventional
dress in the hunting field, I trust I may be pardoned for describing
what appeared to me an equally consistent innovation in summer costume
for the saddle. Last summer I saw four young ladies taking an early
morning canter over a breezy down in this neighbourhood. The weather was
sultry. Three of the ladies wore habits of different shades of grey,
according to their respective complexions, the fabric evidently very
thin. Their equipment was completed by felt hats of different shapes,
exceedingly becoming. The fourth lady, who was very fair, wore a
perfectly white habit, made, I presume, of linen; the jacket edged with
a narrow light blue cord; her headdress was a yachting hat of Tuscan
straw, encircled by and also fastened under her chin with light blue
ribbon. In the front of her jacket she wore a moss rosebud. She was
riding an Arab-like blood horse, and being, like her companions, not
only well mounted, but a first-rate horsewoman, the effect was not only
pleasing to the eye and full of "dash," but, I am sure, most conducive
to the comfort of the fair riders themselves. Fashion apart, I may
fairly ask, would not these four ladies have looked equally well, and
felt as much at their ease, in Rotten Row as on the springy
Leicestershire turf? I devoutly hope yet to see some of the leaders of
fashion in the gay London season inaugurate some such change as I
venture to suggest; and certain I am if they did so, Rotten Row in the
month of May would present a brilliant Watteau-like appearance, very
different from that produced by the prevalence of sombre colours now
worn by the equestrian _habitues_ of that fashionable ride.
To return to our fair pupil (having made such selection of riding dress
as is most suitable to her style). Her first outdoor rides should be
taken on some quiet and little frequented road until she becomes
accustomed to control her horse; for there is a great difference in the
form of going of the same animal in the riding school and on the road,
as many horses that require considerable rousing in the school are all
action and lightheartedness out of doors.
On the road, especially when they are hard, walking and trotting should
be the pace, the pupil riding equally on snaffle and curb reins; the
pace free and active; the trot about eight to eight and a half the hour.
Cantering should never be practised on hard ground, as it is certain,
sooner or later, to cause mischief to the horse's legs. Where there is a
good broad sward by the roadside, as in the Midland counties, a good
stretching canter for miles may always be had where the ground is good
going. But such places are not to be found in the neighbourhood of the
metropolis; and it is necessary therefore to select some open common,
such as Wimbledon or Wormwood Scrubs, for cantering at first.
By degrees the pupil should be accustomed to ride through thoroughfares
where there is considerable traffic, and may then make her _debut_ in
Rotten Row; and here I may remark that nobody, lady or gentleman, should
ever attempt riding in this fashionable equestrian resort until they
have thorough command of their horses, and, indeed, know scientifically
what riding is. The place, strictly speaking, is a ride intended for
royalty alone; and I believe I am correct in saying that the admission
of the general public to it is by no means a matter of right. Great
pains are bestowed to keep it in good order throughout the year;
especially, it is always soft and good for a horse's legs. But as a
great concourse of equestrians, male and female, is always in the Row in
the London season, and as the horses are nearly all well bred and high
couraged, there is considerable danger, both to themselves and others,
in persons with indifferent seats and hands venturing to ride in the
fashionable crowd, the danger being considerably enhanced by the fact
that such people are altogether ignorant of the risk they are running.
For my own part, after seeing some corpulent citizen rehearsing "John
Gilpin" in Hyde Park, with his trousers half-way up to his knees, and
his feet the wrong way in the stirrups, the wonder has always been to me
not that accidents occur in Rotten Row, but that there are not a great
many more.
There are adventurous ladies, too, who occasionally create a sensation
among the crowd, not at all flattering to themselves if they only knew
the sentiments of those about them; and I really think it would be a
capital plan to appoint some competent gentlemen to take charge by
turns of the Row in the London season, and order the mounted police on
duty quietly to see everybody out of it who was unable to command their
horses. Matters, since the mounted constables have been put on, are not
quite so bad as formerly; but there is plenty of room for improvement
still, both as regards dogs, pretty horsebreakers, and tailors.
At all events, I recommend any man taking a young lady into the Park in
the height of the London season "to have his eyes about him" in every
direction, lest some "dashing equestrian," male or female, should come
bucketing a horse in rear of his charge, and to keep a close watch also
upon the latter--to see that she _rides her horse_ all the time she is
in the place, keeping him well into his bridle, which reduces to a
minimum the chances of his suddenly flirting.
Elsewhere I have gone at considerable length into the subject of
possible accidents in the Park. It is perhaps necessary that I repeat
the gist of it here, which is simply that no young lady, however
accomplished a horsewoman she may be, should be allowed by her friends
to ride in the Row unattended by a male companion, who is not only a
thoroughly good horseman, but accustomed to ride beside a lady and
_anticipate_ anything in the shape of bad manners on the part of her
horse; that the attendance of a groom, who rides at a considerable
distance in rear of the lady (whatever appearance of conventional style
it may give to the fair equestrian), is utterly useless to her in case
of accident, nay, in more than one instance that I have known has been
productive of it from the groom galloping up at a critical moment, and
still further exciting the lady's horse. Finally, that no lady should
ever ride a horse of high breed and courage that has been allowed to
"get above himself," by remaining day after day in the stable, or having
insufficient work, when exercised, to keep down exuberant freshness.
There is no danger to a thoroughly good horsewoman in riding a horse
that is "light-hearted." But there is risk to everybody, man or woman,
in riding one "mad fresh," ready to jump out of his skin, as the grooms
say, in a crowd of other horses.
For my own part, of two evils, I would rather see a lady jammed into a
lane with twenty or thirty horses, after hounds had just got away, and
everybody was struggling to get out, than I would see her in the Park
unattended by a gentleman, and mounted upon a well-bred horse that was
very fresh. I do not by any means deprecate riding in the Row. It is a
splendid piece of riding ground, and relieved to some extent, as it now
is, of overcrowding by the ride on the upper side of the Park; it is a
glorious place for a canter. But I repeat, let everybody who takes a
horse there be able to ride him, and have eyes for his neighbours as
well as himself; and especially let gentlemen who attend ladies there be
always on the _qui vive_ for the adventurous Gilpins and "pretty
horsebreakers."
The canter for the Row, conventionally and wisely, should be almost as
collected as that of the riding school. It is an understood thing, in
fact, that no lady or gentleman (properly so called) "sets a horse
going" there; and trotting when practised should also be done very
collectedly, both paces admitting of the display of talent and
proficiency in equitation of the rider.
For the more extended paces, it is necessary again to have recourse to
open heath or common; and, before the pupil attempts to "set her horse
going," the difference between cantering, in the "andante" pace, and
galloping, should be clearly explained to her. The main difference in
this cantering is to some extent an artificial pace, because, when
practised collectedly, the greater weight of the horse is brought from
his forehand on to his haunches; and the shorter the pace, the more his
weight is on his hind legs. It is for this reason that very collected
cantering should not be continued for any great length of time, from its
tendency to strain the hocks, nevertheless cantering, like trotting,
cannot fairly be pronounced altogether artificial, because anybody who
has had the handling of a great number of young horses must have seen
many of them running loose who would canter the length of a paddock at
quite a short pace, both legs on the same side (generally the near
side); and I have seen a foal at a mare's foot trot, true and fair, for
a considerable distance.
Galloping, however, like walking, is a perfectly natural pace, although
it is a mistake to say that in the gallop the horse moves both fore and
hind legs together, in what is frequently termed "a succession of
jumps." That he does this in his top speed, and especially in making a
supreme effort, as in a desperate finish of a race, is perfectly true:
but it is equally certain that at half or three quarter speed he is
leading with either near or off fore leg, and that anything but a _full
speed_ gallop is simply a very extended canter. Any man who has ridden a
race must know that where the distance is great, say four miles or more,
and men do not force the pace, for perhaps two-thirds of the way every
horse (say of a score of them) will be leading with either near or off
leg, generally the former, and that a very hot excitable horse, eager to
get to the front, will _change his leg_ when he finds his rider keeps
his hands down, and his horse back. It may be said that this is not
galloping but cantering; but I beg to assure all those who maintain this
opinion that such a canter is faster than any gallop resorted to, apart
from racing, that, in short, such a gallop is a very extended canter.
Whatever the term, however, may be most applicable to it, half racing
speed is quite as fast as a lady will have occasion to ride, unless in
cases of desperate emergency. At such speed the horse has altogether a
different balance to that maintained in the short canter; and, although
he does not go altogether on his shoulders, still, to afford him freedom
of action, he must be allowed to extend his head and neck, because, if
too much bent, his action will be clambering, instead of sending him
freely to his front.
To gallop a horse in good form the lady should adopt a different
arrangement of the reins to any heretofore used. It is simply to divide
them, so that the little fingers of both hands pass between the snaffle
and curb reins, the latter under the little finger, and a little longer
than the former, the _appui_ being principally upon the snaffle,
although there should be no slack rein on the curbs. Her hands should be
kept well apart, and as low down as she can get them. The reason for
separating the hands is, that it is far more difficult for a lady to set
her hands down than for a man to do the same thing, because the front
forks of the saddle are very much in her way.
If, however, she rides with a saddle, the off side crutch of which is
"cut down," and she places her right hand outside her right knee, and
her left hand outside the near side upper crutch, she will have the
reins at nearly the same angle, and about the same feeling on the
horse's mouth, as would be obtained by a man in setting his horse going.
In order to counteract any tendency of this position of the hands to
interfere with the rider's proper balance, the left foot should be
carried well forward, while the leg is pressed firmly against the third
crutch, and an equally firm grasp of the upper crutch is taken with the
right knee. A slight bend forward of the figure from the waist upwards
is admissible, but great care should be taken by the instructor that
this is not overdone, but regulated by the angle at which the left foot
is placed. With the slight bend forward, however, there should be no
rounding of the back or shoulders, or dropping of the head. Neither
should the hands be allowed to get too forward; they will be somewhat in
advance of their position at a canter, but not be more than six or eight
inches from the body--the hands with the knuckles upwards, the elbows
only slightly bent.
The ground selected for this exercise should be well known to the
instructor--sound, good-going turf, perfectly free from rabbit holes or
rotten places. The pace should be gradually increased from a free canter
to about half-racing speed, the master making the pace himself, and
carefully watching his pupil in every stride her horse takes. The lady
should be instructed to let her horse "take fairly hold" of her, and
press him with the leg until he strides freely along in his gallop. She
should keep her hands shut firmly on the reins, and rest the former
against the saddle. The horse then, while taking well hold of her, will
not _pull_, nor will she pull an ounce against him, the consequence
being that when she desires to decrease her speed, she has only to lean
back gradually from her galloping position, bringing the body first
perfectly upright, and then inclining back at about the same angle she
previously carried it forward, raise her hands up from the saddle, and
carry them back to her waist, while she turns the little fingers inwards
and upwards towards it, which will cause her to feel the curb reins with
a double feeling to the snaffle, and in about a dozen strides she can
thus collect her horse into a steady canter and bring him subsequently
to a walk. The length and speed of these rides must be carefully
regulated by the master according to the nerve and strength of his
pupil. Without a fair amount of both nerve and physical power such
gallops should not be attempted at all. Where there is plenty of both, a
half-mile spin is admissible to begin with, and, with good going ground,
this may be increased gradually to a couple of miles. The instructor
should be very careful in cautioning his pupil to diminish the speed of
her horse by degrees and in the manner above described, especially
avoiding any sudden pull at him, or any unsteadiness of the hands.
Carefully practised, these gallops will give the pupil great freedom and
confidence in the saddle; and they are, moreover, wonderful promoters of
health.