Easily-made Tailless and Box Kites
One of the difficulties that beset the juvenile kite-flyer is the
inability to get the kite to rise from the ground unless there is a
fairly good wind blowing. Even then the services of an assistant are
required, whilst numerous trials to adjust the amount of weight on the
tail, the position of the carrying thread on the kite, and the distance
required to be run to get the artificial wind to enable the kite to
rise above the surrounding buildings, are difficulties that damp the
enthusiasm of the most inveterate kite-flyer.
To the kites sold in the shops the foregoing remarks apply. They
are too heavy, and are suitable for flying at the seaside only. To
make the sport interesting, the kite should fly in the least wind,
and should be so made as to fly from the hand, the thread or string
being paid out as the kite rises. It should be perfectly balanced
so as to be stable in the most erratic wind. The kites shown in the
accompanying illustrations, if made to the directions, will fulfil all
the above conditions, and at the same time be easy of construction.
The dimensions can be varied in proportion; but the would-be maker is
advised to stick to the given sizes for the first attempt.
[Illustration: Fig. 172.—Hargreaves Kite]
[Illustration: Fig. 173.—Frame of Hargreaves Kite]
[Illustration: Fig. 174.—Measuring Bend]
[Illustration: Fig. 175.—Box Kite]
[Illustration: Fig. 177.—Joint of Stretcher Ribs]
[Illustration: Fig. 176.—Covering with Paper]
The Hargreaves kite (Fig. 172) is the simplest. The frame (Fig. 173)
consists of a straight length of yellow pine =A=, to which is attached
a cross piece of cane =B=. This cross piece is made by cutting a thin
cane and splitting it, trimming the edges off until nearly square in
section, and then bending it over a small gas flame. As it gets hot,
bend it gently by grasping the ends in each hand. Pass it to and fro
in the low flame, and it will be found to give. Bend it evenly and
allow to cool, when it will remain in this shape. Find the centre and
ascertain if the bend is equal on each side by measuring as shown in
Fig. 174. This being so, notch =A= and =B= (Fig. 173) slightly where
they cross, and assemble, applying a little glue and lapping with
cotton. Join the ends of the bent limb with linen thread, and also take
a thread round the frame, securing it at each extremity in a notch with
the addition of glue.
When dry the frame is covered with paper. The very thin coloured paper
used for making artificial flowers is just the thing. Gum it on with a
thin flour paste, and allow very little overlap, keeping the paper as
free from crinkles as possible. Cut a disc of stout paper, and gum it
over the frame at the crossing. This is to strengthen the paper at this
point, as the attached thread is liable to make a wide hole. Secure a
yard of strong thread at the crossing, and when dry the kite can be
tested. If all is right the result will be eminently satisfactory, the
kite flying from the hand like a bird, no tail whatever being needed.
For decorative purposes a short fish tail and fins can be added, or a
rubber balloon can be used as a tail.
The box kite shown by Fig. 175 is not more difficult to construct than
the kite previously described. It flies with equal facility, and is
quite as steady. Being made collapsible it can be rolled in a small
compass.
To make the kite, paste two of the coloured sheets together to form a
continuous length, and spread on the floor. Cut the four uprights of
yellow pine to the correct length and thickness, and having liberally
glued them, place them on the paper as shown in Fig. 176, and paste a
long strip over them on to the paper underneath. This is to strengthen
the paper round the uprights. When dry and firm, which does not take
long if the glue is put on tacky, the loose end of the paper can be
joined to the upright to form a hollow long box.
Now cut four thin lengths of wood to form cross-pieces, secured
together with a pin through the centre (see Fig. 177). Notch the ends
and open them out so as to fit inside the box between the uprights. Fit
one to each end, and then secure the upright ends with a linen thread
pulled tightly from one to the other, and tied and glued at each end.
This takes the strain of the cross piece off the paper, and at the same
time provides a support for the paper, which is clapped round it and
gummed on to itself.
The kite having been completed, a short length of thin string is
attached about 3 in. from one end of one of the uprights. To this the
thread for flying is attached. This kite will fly quite well with
the thread attached to the very end of the upright, so that there
is no fixed position for it to a fraction of an inch. The nearer it
is brought to the centre, the more unstable the kite becomes. In a
moderate wind, with the thread attached to the top, the kite tends to
ascend more vertical than it would otherwise.
[Illustration: Fig. 177A]
[Illustration: Fig. 177B
Figs. 177A and B.—Details of Twin Cellular Box Kite]
Fig. 177A shows another simple form of box kite. It is made from four
strips of straight grained wood (preferably spruce), 2 ft. 6 in. by ⅜
in. by ½ in. Obtain also four other pieces, each 1 ft. 7½ in. long, but
¹/₁₆ in. wider and thicker than the foregoing, and halve their ends to
a depth of ⅛ in. by ¼ in., in order that when the false end =A= (Fig.
177B) is tightly bound on, these cross sticks will firmly grip the long
pieces edgewise; the sides of the cell are indicated by dotted lines.
It is advisable to make the cross-pieces a trifle long, to ensure their
straining the kite to its correct form.