CHAPTER V

THE BACKFISCH

The word is untranslatable, though my dictionary translates it.

Backfisch, m. fried fish; young girl; says the dictionary. In Germany

a woman does not arrive at her own gender till she marries and becomes

somebody's _Frau_. Woman in general, girl, and miss are neuter; and

the fried-fish girl is masculine. But if one little versed in German

wished to tell you that he liked a fried sole, and said _Ich liebe

einen Backfisch_, it might lead to misunderstandings. The origin of

the word in this application is dubious. Some say it means fish that

are baked in the oven because they are too small to fry in pans; but

this does not seem a sensible explanation to anyone who has seen

white-bait cooked. Others say it means fish the anglers throw back

into the water because they are small. At any rate, the word used is

to convey an impression of immaturity. A _Backfisch_ is what English

and American fashion papers call a "miss." You may see, too, in German

shop windows a printed intimation that special attention is given to

_Backfisch Moden_. It is a girl who has left school but has not cast

off her school-girl manners; and who, according to her nation and her

history, will require more or less last touches.

Miss Betham-Edwards tells us that a French girl is taught from

babyhood to play her part in society, and that the exquisite grace

and taste of Frenchwomen are carefully developed in them from the

cradle. An English girl begins her social education in the nursery,

and is trained from infancy in habits of personal cleanliness and in

what old-fashioned English people call "table manners." An

Englishwoman, who for many years lived happily as governess in a

German country house, told me how on the night of her arrival she

tried out of politeness to eat and drink as her hosts did; and how the

mistress of the house confided to her later that she had disappointed

everyone grievously. There were daughters in the family, and they were

to learn to behave at table in the English way. That was why the

father, arriving from Berlin, had on his own initiative brought them

an English governess; for the English are admitted by their

continental friends to excel in this special branch of manners, while

their continental enemies charge them with being "ostentatiously" well

groomed and dainty. The truth is, that if you have lived much with

both English and Germans, and desire to be fair and friendly to both

races, you find that your generalisations will not often weigh on one

side. The English child learns to eat with a fork rather than with a

spoon, and never by any chance to put a knife in its mouth, or to

touch a bone with its fingers. The German child learns that it must

never wear a soiled or an unmended garment or have untidy hair. I have

known a German scandalised by the slovenly wardrobe of her well-to-do

English pupil, and I have heard English people say that to hear

Germans eat soup destroyed their appetite for dinner. English girls

are not all slovens, and nowadays decently bred Germans behave like

other people at table. But untidiness is commoner in England than in

Germany, and you may still stumble across a German any day who,

abiding by old customs, puts his knife in his mouth and takes his

bones in his hands. He will not only do these things, but defend them

vociferously. In that case you are strongly advised not to eat a dish

of asparagus in his company.

Your modern German _Backfisch_ may be a person of finish and wide

culture. You may find that she insists on her cold tub every morning,

and is scandalised by your offer of hot water in it. She has seen

Salome as a play and heard Salome as an opera. She has seen plays by

G.B.S. both in Berlin and London. She does not care to see Shakespeare

in London, because, as she tells you, the English know nothing about

him. Besides, he could not sound as well in English as in German. She

has read Carlyle, and is now reading Ruskin. She adores Byron, but

does not know Keats, Shelley, or Rossetti. Tennyson she waves

contemptuously away from her, not because she has read him, but

because she has been taught that his poetry is "bourgeois." Her

favourite novels are _Dorian Gray_ and _Misunderstood_. She dresses

with effect and in the height of fashion, she speaks French and

English fluently, she has travelled in Italy and Switzerland, she

plays tennis well, she can ride and swim and skate, and she would

cycle if it was not out of fashion. In fact, she can do anything, and

she knows everything, and she has been everywhere. Your French and

English girls are ignorant misses in comparison with her, and you say

to yourself as you watch her and humbly listen to her opinions,

delivered without hesitation and expressed without mistakes: "Where is

the German _Backfisch_ of yesteryear?"

"Did you ever read _Backfischchen's Leiden und Freuden_?" you say to

her; for the book is in its 55th edition, and you have seen German

girls devouring it only last week; German girls of a different type,

that is, from your present glittering companion.

"That old-fashioned inferior thing," she says contemptuously. "I

believe my mother had it. That is not literature."

You leave her to suppose you could not have made that discovery for

yourself, and you spend an amusing hour over the story again, for

there are occasions when a book that is not "literature" will serve

your purpose better than a masterpiece. The little book has

entertained generations of German girls, and is presumably accepted by

them, just as _Little Women_ is accepted in America or _The Daisy

Chain_ in England. The picture was always a little exaggerated, and

some of its touches are now out of date; yet as a picture of manners

it still has a value. It narrates the joys and sorrows of a young girl

of good family who leaves her country home in order to live with an

aunt in Berlin, a facetious but highly civilised aunt who uses a large

quantity of water at her morning toilet. All the stages of this toilet

are minutely described, and all the mistakes the poor countrified

_Backfisch_ makes the first morning. She actually gets out of bed

before she puts on her clothes, and has to be driven behind the bed

curtains by her aunt's irony. This is an incident that is either out

of date or due to the genius and imagination of the author, for I have

never seen bed curtains in Germany. However, Gretchen is taught to

perform the early stages of her toilet behind them, and then to wash

for the first time in her life in a basin full of water. She is

sixteen. Her aunt presents her with a sponge, and observes that the

civilisation of a nation is judged by the amount of soap it uses. "In

much embarrassment I applied myself to this unaccustomed task,"

continues the ingenuous _Backfisch_, "and I managed it so cleverly

that everything around me was soon swimming. To make matters worse, I

upset the water-jug, and now the flood spread to the washstand, the

floor, the bed curtains, even to my clothes lying on the chair. If

only this business of dressing was over," she sighs as she is about to

brush her teeth, with brushes supplied by her aunt. But it is by no

means over. She is just going to slip into a dressing-gown, cover her

unbrushed hair with a cap, and so proceed to breakfast, when this

exacting aunt stops her: actually desires her to plait and comb her

hair at this hour of the morning, and to put on a tidy gown.

Gretchen's gown is extremely untidy, and on that account I will not

admit that the portrait is wholly lifelike. In fact, the author has

summed up the sins of all the _Backfisch_ tribe, and made a single

_Backfisch_ guilty of them. But caricature, if you know how to allow

for it, is instructive. Mr. Stiggins is a caricature, yet he stands

for failings that exist among us, though they are never displayed

quite so crudely. "Go and brush your nails," says the aunt to the

niece when the girl attempts to kiss her hand; and the _Backfisch_

uses a nail-brush for the first time in her life.

Then the two ladies sit down to breakfast. Gretchen fills the cups too

full, soaks her roll in her coffee, and drinks out of her saucer. Her

aunt informs her that "coffee pudding" is not polite, and can only be

allowed when they are by themselves; also that she must not drink out

of the saucer. "But we children always did it at home," says Gretchen.

"I can well believe it," says the aunt. "_Everything is permitted to

children._" The italics are mine.

An aunt who has such ideas about the education of the young is

naturally not surprised when at dinner-time she has to admonish her

niece not to wipe her mouth with her hand, not to speak with her

mouth full, to eat her soup quietly, to keep her elbows off the table,

not to put her fingers in her plate or her knife in her mouth, and not

to take her chicken into her hands on ceremonial occasions.

"My treasure," says the aunt, "as you know, we are going to dinner

with the Dunkers to-morrow. Be good enough not to take your chicken

into your hands. Here at home I don't object to it, but the really

correct way is to separate the meat from the bone with the knife and

fork."

The docile _Backfisch_ says _Jawohl, liebe Tante_, and feels that this

business of becoming civilised is full of pitfalls and surprises.

Never in her life has she eaten poultry without the assistance of her

fingers. When she gets to the dinner-party she is fortunate enough to

sit next to her bosom friend, who starts in horror and whispers "With

a knife, Gretchen," when Gretchen is just about to dip her fingers in

the salt. The _Backfisch_ is truly anxious to learn, but she feels

that the injunctions of society are hard, and says it is poor sport to

eat your chicken with a knife and fork, because the best part sticks

to the bones. Then her friend stops her from drinking fruit syrup out

of her plate, and her neighbour on the other side, a stout guzzler who

has not been taught by his aunt to eat properly, encourages Gretchen

to drink too much champagne.

After these early adventures the education of the _Backfisch_ proceeds

quickly. She has to learn at her aunt's tea-parties not to fill cups

to overflowing in sheer exuberance of hospitality; and she is also

instructed not to press food on people. "In good society," says the

aunt, "people decline to eat because they have had enough, and not

because they require pressing." She is obliged also to discourage

Gretchen from waiting too attentively on the young men who visit at

the house; and Gretchen, who does not care about young men, but only

yearns to be serviceable, devotes herself in future to the old ladies,

their foot-stools, their knitting, and their smelling bottles. This

touch is one of many that makes the book, in spite of its obvious

shortcomings, valuable as a picture of German character and manner. It

is impossible to imagine Gretchen in a French or English story of the

same class. The French girl would be more adroit and witty; the

English girl would expect young men to wait on her; and neither of

them would gush as Gretchen did about her old ladies. "My readiness to

serve them knew no bounds. To arrange their seats to their liking, to

give them stools for their feet and cushions for their backs, to rush

for their shawls and cloaks, to count the rows in their knitting, to

help them pick up their stitches, to thread their needles, to wind

silk or wool, to peel fruit, to run for smelling bottles and cold

water,--all these things I did with delight the instant my watchful

eye discovered the smallest wish, and I was always cordially thanked."

Tastes differ. Some old ladies would be made quite uncomfortable by

such fussy attentions. The _Backfisch_ goes on to say that she was

equally assiduous in waiting on the old gentlemen. She picked up

anything they dropped, polished their spectacles for them, and

listened to their dull stories when no one else would. I consider the

portrait of Gretchen in this story a literary triumph. I can see the

girl; I can hear her voice and laugh. I know exactly how she behaved

and what the old ladies and gentlemen said to her, how she dressed and

how she did her hair; not because the author tells me just these

things, but because her type is as true to life to-day as it was

thirty years ago. As a contrast to her, a fine young lady from the

city presently joins the household, and the aunt does not have to

provide her with a tooth-brush. The new arrival wears blue satin

slippers, drinks her chocolate in bed, and cannot dress without the

help of a maid. In this way the author shows you that girls brought up

in cities are superfine rather than savage, and that you are not to

suppose the ordinary German _Backfisch_ is like her little heroine

from the provinces.

The truth of the matter is, that no one nowadays has such manners as

the _Backfisch_ had when she first came from the wilds; at least, no

one of her class, even if they have grown up in Hinter-Pommern. But if

you travel in Germany next week and stay in small towns and country

places, you will still meet plenty of people who take their poultry

bones in their fingers and put their knives in their mouths. If they

are men you will see them use their fork as a dagger to hold the meat

while they cut it up; you will see them stick their napkins into their

shirt collars and placidly comb their hair with a pocket comb in

public; if they are women and at a restaurant, they will pocket the

lumps of sugar they have not used in their coffee. But if you are in

private houses amongst people of Gretchen's type you will see none of

these things. A German host still pulls the joint close to him

sometimes or stands up to carve, and a German hostess still presses

you to eat, still in the kindness of her heart piles up your plate.

But this embarrassing form of hospitality is dying out. As Gretchen's

aunt said, people in good society recognise that a guest refuses food

because he does not want it. Some years ago, when you had satisfied

your hunger and declined more, your German friends used to look

offended or distressed, and say _Sie geniren sich gewiss_. This is a

difficult phrase to translate, because the idea is one that has never

taken root in the English mind, _Sich geniren_, however, is a

reflective verb, a corruption of the French verb _se gêner_, and what

they meant was that you really wanted a third potato dumpling but did

not like to say so. Whether your reluctance was supposed to proceed

from your distrust of your host's hospitality or shame at your own

appetite, is not clear; in either case it was taken, is even to-day

still often taken, for artificial. To accept a portion of an untouched

dish was considered a sign that you came from "a good house" where no

one grudged or wished to save the food put on the table; and formerly

you could not refuse sugar in your tea without being commended for

your economy. You are still invited to eat tarts and puddings in

Germany with what we consider the insufficient assistance of a

tea-spoon, but I have never been in a private house where salt-spoons

were not provided. You never used to find them in inns of a plain

kind, and unless you were known to be English and peculiar you were

not provided with more than one knife and fork for all the courses of

a _table d'hôte_. You would see your German neighbours putting theirs

aside as a matter of course when their plates were removed.

On the whole, then, the celebrated picture of the _Backfisch_, though

it is overloaded, bears some relation to the facts of life in Germany:

not only in the episodes that make the early chapters entertaining,

but all through the story in atmosphere, in the little touches that

give a story nationality. When the excellent Gretchen has been

civilised she spends a great deal of time in the kitchen, and soon

knows all the duties of the complete housekeeper; while, when the

frivolous Eugenie becomes _Braut_ she cannot cook at all. But

frivolous as she is, she recognises that marriage is unthinkable

without cooking, and straightway sets to work to learn. Then, too,

the _Backfisch_ is the ideal German maiden, cheerful, docile, and

facetious; and constantly on the jump (_springen_ is the word she

uses) to serve her elders. Middle-aged Germans used to have a most

tiresome way of expecting girls to be like lambs in spring, always in

the mood to frisk and caper: so that a quiet or a delicate girl had a

bad time with some of them. _Ein junges Mädchen muss immer heiter

sein_, they would say reproachfully. But it does not follow that you

are always _heiter_ just because you are not twenty yet; especially in

Germany, where girls are often anæmic and have headaches. However,

perhaps the modern German maiden does not allow her elders to be so

silly.

There are some other ways, too, in which my _Backfisch_ of thirty

years ago is typical of German womanhood both then and now. She is as

good as gold, she is devoted to duty not to pleasure, and she is as

guileless as a child. You know that when she marries she will be

faithful unto death; you know that her husband and her children will

call her blessed. These things come out quite naturally, almost

unconsciously, in the little story that is "not literature," and which

for all that is so truly and deeply German in its quality and tone.

This Gretchen of the schoolroom, this caricature of the country

cousin, is akin in her simplicity, sweetness, and depth of nature to

that other Gretchen whose figure lives for ever in the greatest of

German poems. Just as the women of Shakespeare and the women of Miss

Austen are subtly kin to each other, inasmuch as they are English

women, so Goethe's girl and the girl of the poor little schoolroom

story are German in every pulse and fibre. And this national essence,

the honesty, goodness, and sweetness of the girl, are the real

things, the things to remember about her. Those little matters of the

toilet and the table will soon be out of date, are out of date already

in the greater part of Germany. As a picture of forgotten manners they

will always be amusing, just as it is amusing to read an

eighteenth-century English story of school life, in which the young

ladies fought and bit and scratched each other and were whipped and

sent to bed.

Home Life in Germany · 第 5 / 27 章