A party quit the hut in search of a settlement--Author’s feet
frost-bitten--Progress of the party interrupted by a mountain--Return
towards the hut, till prevented by the tide from passing a reef
of rocks--Pass the night in a valley--Next morning set off at low
water--Author falls behind, and in attempting to climb over a rock,
gets his hands frost-bitten--Critical situation--Reaches the hut--Two
Russians reach a settlement by the mountains, and send relief--Some
account of Karlouski--Voyage to Alexandria.
On the morning of the 22d we quitted the hut, leaving one of the
Russians and our Indian pilot to take charge of what we had saved from
the boat.
Having proceeded some distance, we were interrupted by a reef of
rocks, over which it was necessary to wade. I was provided with strong
seal-skin boots, but unfortunately in crossing they were filled with
water, which, the cold being so severe, the exercise of walking did
not prevent from freezing. In a short time I lost all feeling in my
feet, but was able to keep up with my companions, till our progress
along shore was completely stopped by a mountain which projected into
the sea. Finding it impossible to get round the base, we attempted to
climb over the summit. It was very steep, and in many places crusted
with ice. I had by this time entirely lost the use of my feet, and
with all my exertions, was unable to keep pace with my companions.
In many places I was forced to dig steps in the ice and snow, with a
pair of boots I had on my hands for that purpose. At length, after
great labour and fatigue, I gained what I imagined to be the summit;
it proved, however, to be little more than half way up, and the higher
part of the mountain was quite inaccessible. I endeavoured to descend
again; but in a short time found that the state of my feet rendered
the attempt unavailing. I had no alternative but to slide down; and,
therefore, throwing away the boots, and placing my hands behind me, to
direct my course, I came down with such velocity, that at the foot of
the hill, I sunk at least ten feet into the frozen snow. I was at first
almost suffocated, till I made a little room by pressing the snow from
me. I called as loud as I was able for assistance, but could not make
my companions hear me, although I heard their voices perfectly well
calling upon me. I at length relieved myself, by compressing the snow
till it became sufficiently hard to bear my weight. I then planted my
feet into it, and reached the surface.
We turned back, and endeavoured to proceed by a valley which lay behind
the mountain. My feet by this time were frozen, never to recover; and
I was so ill able to ascend, that I was frequently blown over by the
wind, and sometimes driven a considerable way down the hill. Exhausted
by these fruitless trials to keep up with the rest, I became totally
unable to proceed, and was left to my fate. I laid myself down on the
snow in a state of despair. Having recovered a little, I resolved to
make another attempt to follow the track of my companions, but had not
proceeded far when I met them coming down the hill, which had proved to
be impassable.
We now set off on our return to the hut, but were soon interrupted by
a steep rock, which the rising tide prevented us from passing. We had
no resource, but to wait till low water next day, and to pass the night
where we were. This was a most unfortunate circumstance for me, for had
I reached the hut, and got my feet dried, they would in all likelihood
have recovered. It blew hard, and the night was piercingly cold; we
therefore returned to the valley, where there was at least some shelter
from the wind.
The Russians, who knew the effects of cold, informed us that the
consequences of lying down would be fatal. Although well aware of this,
I was so much overcome by cold and fatigue, that I several times dropt
asleep upon my feet; but my companions, who had not suffered so much,
took care to arouse me.
Next morning we again set off for the hut, and met with no interruption
till we came to the reef where I had got my feet wet. In consequence of
the high wind, the swell was heavier than it had been the day before,
and my feet were so powerless that a wave washed me completely off the
reef into deep water. It was fortunately towards the shore, and on the
returning wave I recovered my footing, and succeeded in getting over.
I followed my companions as well as my exhausted strength and the state
of my feet would permit, but fell considerably behind, and had entirely
lost sight of them, when my progress was impeded by a projecting
crag, through which a natural perforation formed the only passage. The
entrance was elevated a considerable way from the ground, and that
part of the rock over which it was necessary to scramble, was nearly
perpendicular, and almost covered with ice.
With a little assistance I could have easily got over; but situated as
I was, my own exertions were of little avail. My feet were of no use
in climbing, and I was obliged to drag myself up by my hands, in doing
which they also were frozen. After many ineffectual attempts, I had,
as I thought, gained the top; but when I had tried to lay hold of a
projection in the rock, my fingers refused to perform their office, and
I fell to the ground.
The tide was fast rising, and the surge already washed the spot where
I stood; in a few minutes it would have been too late, and I must have
perished had I been obliged to remain another tide, with my feet and
hands frozen, and my whole body wet. As a last resource, I collected
a few stones, which I had just strength to pile sufficiently high to
enable me to get over.
This took place early in the day, and the hut was only a few miles
farther on, but I was so much enfeebled that I did not reach it till
dusk.
I never again walked on my feet; but, by the blessing of God, recovered
the use of my hands, with the loss of only two fingers.
I was treated with great humanity upon my arrival, by the Russians,
who had preserved their clothes dry in seal skin bags. They gave me a
suit, and having cut off my boots, wrapped my feet and hands in flannel
drawers. I was laid upon a bed of dried grass, after having satisfied
my hunger with some rusk and blubber, which were the only provisions
that remained.
As our stock was so low, no time was to be lost in procuring
assistance; accordingly, the two who had remained set out next morning
to endeavor to reach the settlement by the mountains.
On the third day after their departure our provisions were completely
exhausted; but the weather had been tolerable, and we knew that if they
succeeded, they would lose no time in sending us relief.
On the 27th, those who had been on the look out brought the joyful
intelligence that five canoes were in sight, which proved to have been
sent by our companions, who had reached the village in safety.
We quitted the hut on the 28th, in the canoes, which were baidarkas,
with three seats in each. In crossing a bay we encountered a heavy sea;
in order to keep me dry I was put below, and the hole in which I sat
was stuffed up with the gut frock.
It was a great relief to me when we got into smoother water, for the
space into which I was crammed was so small that I had nearly been
suffocated. We arrived at Karlouski in the evening.
This settlement consisted of about thirty Indian families, and several
Russians; the latter lived together in a cazerne, and the Indians
in huts, which at this place were built of logs, wood being plenty.
I was carried to the cazerne, where I was laid upon a bed of skins,
and treated with the utmost attention; but as the place afforded no
medical assistance, my feet and hands began to mortify, and my health
was otherwise so much impaired, that I was frequently in a state of
delirium.
We remained here till about the 25th of February, when we took our
passage in a baiderai, or large skin-boat, bound to Alexandria, with a
cargo of furs, berries, oil, and fish.--They had for provisions the
salmon-roe, preserved in train oil, and kept in bladders. This is by
them esteemed a delicacy, but it was too strong for my stomach.
The first night we landed at a village constructed differently from
any I had hitherto seen; the whole of the houses, except the roofs,
were under ground, and communicated with each other by a subterraneous
passage. Bad weather, and contrary winds, detained us at this place
eleven days.
We sailed again on the 7th of March. The wind being fair we hoisted
a squaresail, and ran before it at a great rate. There is a group of
small islands abreast of the south point of North-Island, at which
place the tides meet, causing a heavy breaking sea; and as the baiderai
was deeply loaded, it had a frightful appearance. The frame of the
vessel was so extremely slight, that when between the waves, she was
bent into a deep curve, and whilst on the top of the wave the two ends
were as much depressed. I was in constant apprehension that the frame
would give way. She however, went through the sea drier than a stiffer
vessel would have done, and we reached the harbour of Alexandria on the
9th, without any accident.