[Illustration: Track
_of the_
ECLIPSE’S LONG BOAT
_from_
SANNACK TO KODIAK
1807]
A
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD,
FROM 1806 TO 1812;
IN WHICH
JAPAN, KAMSCHATKA, THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS, AND
THE SANDWICH ISLANDS WERE VISITED;
INCLUDING
A NARRATIVE OF THE AUTHOR’S SHIPWRECK ON THE
ISLAND OF SANNACK, AND HIS SUBSEQUENT
WRECK IN THE SHIP’S LONG-BOAT:
WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE
PRESENT STATE OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS,
AND
_A VOCABULARY OF THEIR LANGUAGE_.
BY ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL.
_Third American Edition--Illustrated by a Chart._
CHARLESTON, (S. C.)
PRINTED BY DUKE & BROWNE, 9 BROAD-STREET.
1822.
_Southern District of New-York, ss._
Be it remembered, That on the twenty-seventh day of November, in the
forty-first year of the Independence of the United States of America,
ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL, of the said district, hath deposited in this
office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as author and
proprietor, in the words and figures following, to wit:
“A Voyage round the World, from 1806 to 1812, in which Japan,
Kamschatka, the Aleutian Islands, and the Sandwich Islands were
visited; including a Narrative of the Author’s Shipwreck on the Island
of Sannack, and his subsequent Wreck in the Ship’s Long-boat; with an
account of the present state of the Sandwich Islands, and a Vocabulary
of their Language. By Archibald Campbell. Illustrated by a Chart.”
In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States,
entitled, “An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the
copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of
such copies, during the times therein mentioned;” and also, to an act
entitled, “An Act, supplementary to an Act, entitled, An Act for the
encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and
books to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times
therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of
designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints.”
THERON RUDD,
_Clerk of the Southern District of New-York_.
_Recommendation from his Excellency, the Governor of the State of
New-York._
The second edition of a voyage round the world, by Archibald Campbell,
has been recently published in New-York. The life of Campbell has
been marked by extraordinary sufferings; and as there is no doubt
of the authenticity of the work, I recommend it to the patronage of
the public, from a persuasion that the merits and misfortunes of the
narrator, entitle him to favorable consideration.
DE WITT CLINTON.
_Albany, March 2nd, 1820._
_New-York, November 5th, 1819._
At a regular meeting of Morton Lodge, No. 108, (late No. 50,) held last
evening, at their Lodge room, in the City of New-York, the following
resolution was passed, viz.
“Resolved, that from the long acquaintance which we have had with
brother Archibald Campbell, his regular deportment while sojourning
with us, has induced this Lodge to recommend him, and they do recommend
him to the kind protection and friendship of the fraternity generally.”
Extract from the minutes.
S. W. ANDREWS, _Secretary_.
DANIEL SICKELS, W. M.
JOHN DEGEZ, P. M.
We, the undersigned, agree with the report of the officers of Morton
Lodge, No. 108, (late No. 50,) with respect to the deportment of
brother Archibald Campbell, and recommend him accordingly.
RICHARD O. PEARSALL, W. M. _Benevolent Lodge_.
JOSEPH FORRISTER, P. M. _Benevolent Lodge_.
JAMES S. TAYLOR, _Secretary Benevolent Lodge_.
ALEXANDER FRASER, _Treasurer Benevolent Lodge_.
JAMES LYONS, Jun. P. M. _St. John’s No. 9, late No. 6_.
G. LANSING, P. M. _Phœnix Lodge No. 40, late No. 11_.
JAMES WEBSTER, W. M. _Abram’s Lodge, No. 83_.
ROBERT YOUNG, P. M. _Abram’s Lodge, No. 83_.
S. B. FLEMING, W. M. _St. John’s, No. 9, late No. 6_.
CERTIFICATE
_By the Hon. Thomas H. Perkins._
Archibald Campbell, the author of a “Voyage round the World,” made on
board the ship Eclipse, in which I was interested, having applied to me
to give him a certificate of the fact of his having been a seaman on
board said ship, I readily do it.
His Book contains many interesting facts, and is worthy the perusal
of persons who take pleasure in looking into works of this kind. His
misfortunes, and the constant good deportment he has shewn since his
return from the Sandwich Islands, give him a strong claim on the
community.
T. H. PERKINS.
_Boston, July 4, 1821._
⁂ The original documents are in the possession of the Author.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from England--Voyage to China--Transactions at
Canton--Author enters on board an American ship--Passage to
Kamschatka--Touches at Japan--Transactions there--Arrives at the
harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul--Some account of the Russian
settlement at that place. 15
CHAPTER II.
Departure from Kamschatka--Shipwrecked on a reef of rocks,
on the northwest coast of America--Author with the rest of
the crew, save themselves by the long boat--Are drifted on an
island--Transactions upon the island--Prepare to build a vessel. 30
CHAPTER III.
Arrival of a party of Natives, and of the Russian Commandant
of Oonalaska, who determines to send to Kodiak for
assistance--Long-boat prepared for the voyage--Some account of
Sannack or Halibut Island. 39
CHAPTER IV.
Sail from Sannack in the long-boat--Touch at the Island of
Ungar--Distressing state of the settlement there--Sail from
thence--Anchor at the village of Schutkum--Departure from
it--Boat nearly embayed on the north coast of Kodiak--Arrived
at Alexandria--Transactions there--Boat fitted out to return to
Sannack. 47
CHAPTER V.
Departure from Alexandria--Boat forced into a bay by the
weather, and hauled on shore--Obliged, by want of provisions, to
leave the bay--A snow storm--The boat springs aleak--Is run on
shore, and goes to pieces upon the rocks--A hut discovered, in
which the crew pass the night. 58
CHAPTER VI.
A party quit the hut in search of a settlement--Author’s
feet frost-bitten--Progress of the party interrupted by a
mountain--Return towards the hut, till prevented by the
tide from passing a reef of rocks--Pass the night in a
valley--Next morning set off at low water--Author falls
behind, and in attempting to climb over a rock, gets his hands
frost-bitten--Critical situation--Reaches the hut--Two Russians
reach a settlement by the mountains, and send relief--Some
account of Karlouski--Voyage to Alexandria. 63
CHAPTER VII.
Author carried to hospital--Both his feet amputated--Account
of the party left at Sannack--Employed in teaching native
children English--Account of Kodiak--Natives--Dress--Canoes--
Superstition--Food--Author sails in the ship Neva for the
Sandwich Islands. 71
CHAPTER VIII.
Voyage to Sandwich Islands--Make Owhyhee--Touch at
Mowee--Proceed to Wahoo--Tamaahmaah and other chiefs come on
board--Author resides three months with the King--Account of
his mode of life--Remove to the house of Isaac Davis--Account
of him--Death of Terremytee, the King’s brother, and
transactions that took place on that occasion--Remarkable
water-spout--Author receives a grant of land from the King, to
which he removes--Residence there--Arrival of the ship Duke of
Portland--Anecdotes of the King--Departure from the Sandwich
Islands. 85
CHAPTER IX.
Description of Wahoo--Extent--Whyteete-bay--Account of
Tamaahmaah’s navy--Town and harbour of Hanaroora--Bass’s
harbour--Wymumme, or Pearl-river--State of cultivation--Breed of
cattle--Account of the white people resident on the island. 109
CHAPTER X.
Account of the natives--Personal appearance--Ranks--Power
of the king--Priests--Capital punishments--Mode of
detecting theft--Religious belief--Places of worship
and ceremonies--Macaheite--Houses--Food--Ava--Spirits
distilled from the tee-root--State of the
women--Marriages--Dress--Manufactures--Nets and lines--Modes
of fishing--Trade--Price of provisions--Amusements--Funeral
Rites--Military--Progress in civilization--Account of Tamaahmaah
and family. 121
CHAPTER XI.
Departure from Wahoo--Pass Otaheite--Double Cape Horn--Arrival
at Rio Janeiro--Transactions there, during a residence of nearly
two years--Voyage home--and from thence to the United States. 157
APPENDIX No. I.
A Vocabulary of the language of the Sandwich Islands. 165
APPENDIX No. II.
Statement of the Case of Archibald Campbell, by Dr. Nordgoorst,
in the service of the Russian American Company. 189
APPENDIX No. III.
Notice of Archibald Campbell, from Blackwood’s Magazine. 195
APPENDIX No. IV.
Historical Account of the Sandwich Islands. 203
APPENDIX No. V.
Notes. 211
PREFACE.
A perusal of the voyages of discovery, which shed so much lustre on the
reign of George III. naturally excites a strong desire to learn what
effects have been produced among the nations whose existence they have
introduced to our notice.
That the interests of science and commerce have been greatly promoted
by these voyages, cannot be doubted; but it may be questioned whether
the result has been equally beneficial to the natives of the newly
discovered countries; and, as the editor[1] of Cook’s last voyage
justly remarks, “it would afford exquisite pleasure to every benevolent
mind, to be instructed in facts which might enable us without
hesitation to answer in the affirmative.”
[1] Dr. Douglas, Bishop of Salisbury.
The solution of this momentous question can only be obtained from
the accounts of subsequent visitors; and the following narrative is
submitted to the public, as a contribution to the evidence required for
that purpose. It was drawn up partly from the papers,[2] but chiefly
from the recital of the author; and the editor has adhered as closely
as the nature of the case would permit, to the language in which they
were originally related. The intervention of a third person between the
traveller and the reader, is an evil which ought always, if possible,
to be avoided; but in the present instance, some literary assistance
was absolutely necessary; and the editor conceives he shall best have
executed the task he has imposed upon himself, by stating, with strict
fidelity, and in the simplest language, the facts as they were related
to him.
[2] For some account of these papers, see Note A.
A short account of the life of the narrator will enable the reader
to judge of the necessity of such assistance, as well as of his
qualifications to relate the incidents of his voyage.
ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL was born at Wynford, near Glasgow, on the 19th of
July, 1787. His father, who was a soldier in the 45th regiment, died at
St. Lucia, upon which his mother removed to Paisley, her native place,
when her son was about four years of age. He there received the common
rudiments of education, and at the age of ten was bound apprentice to
a weaver. Before the term of his apprenticeship had expired, however,
a strong desire to visit remote countries induced him to go to sea;
and in the year 1800, he entered as apprentice on board the ship
Isabella, of Port-Glasgow, commanded by Mr. Hugh Paterson. In this
vessel he made three voyages to the West-Indies. He afterwards served
about a twelvemonth in a coaster; and, in 1804, again sailed for the
West-Indies, in the sloop Robina, belonging to the same port.
At Madeira he was pressed on board the Diana frigate, and remained in
that ship till her arrival at Portsmouth in 1806. He there found means
to make his escape, and entered as seaman on board the Thames Indiaman.
The history of the six most eventful years of his life will be found in
the following pages. He returned to his native country, in April, 1812,
having lost both his feet; and from the unskilful manner in which
amputation has been performed, the wounds have never healed.
A gentleman in Rio Janeiro, of the name of Lawrie, had furnished him
with letters to his father in Edinburgh, by whose interest he obtained
admission into the Infirmary in that city; but after remaining there
nearly four months, he was dismissed as incurable.
Mr. Lawrie, senior, presented him with a barrel organ; and he contrived
to earn a miserable pittance, by crawling about the streets of
Edinburgh and Leith, grinding music, and selling a metrical history of
his adventures.
Being ambitious, however, of performing on a more dignified instrument,
he has since learned to play on the violin; and he finds employment on
board the steam-boats that ply upon the river Clyde, by playing for the
amusement of the steerage passengers.
In one of these vessels his appearance attracted the notice of the
editor; and the answers he gave to some questions excited so much
curiosity, that he took him home with the intention of making a few
memoranda of his story for his own information.
The modest and intelligent manner in which it was told, the interesting
nature of the incidents, and the curious information it contained,
on the subjects to which the attention of the editor had been much
directed, created a strong interest on behalf of the narrator; and
the hope that an account of his voyage might be of service to an
unfortunate and deserving man, and not unacceptable to those who take
pleasure in contemplating the progress of mankind in the arts of
civilization, gave rise to the present publication.
In the execution of his task, simplicity and perspicuity are all that
the editor has aimed at. The ornaments of style, which are generally
misplaced in such relations, would have been peculiarly incongruous in
the mouth of a common sailor. In those parts of the work which relate
to places already well known, the narrative is entirely confined to the
personal adventures of the author; and had the editor been aware that
so much had been recently written regarding Kamschatka and the Aleutian
Islands by the Russian navigators, the description of those places
would have been either altogether omitted, or much more condensed; but,
in fact, he had no opportunity of seeing their voyages till the work
was sent to the press, and it was not then considered necessary to make
any alteration in the text.
The importance of the subject will account for the disproportion of
that part which relates to the Sandwich Islands to the rest of the
work. From the advantages they owe to their situation, placed midway
between the continents of Asia and America; from the fertility of
the soil, and the natural talents and industry of the natives, they
promise to become by far the most important of the recently discovered
islands[3] in the Pacific Ocean.
[3] The concluding sentence in Captain Cook’s journal affords a
striking proof of the high value he attached to “a discovery, which,
though the last, seemed in many respects the most important of any
that had hitherto been made by Europeans throughout the extent of the
Pacific Ocean”.
Scarcely thirty years have elapsed from the period of their discovery,
yet how wonderful the change![4] Their king is surrounded by workmen
of every description, native and European; his guards are regularly
trained to the use of fire arms; and he possesses a navy of nearly
sixty sail of decked vessels, built upon the islands; whilst almost
every ship which navigates the Pacific, finds shelter, provisions, or
trade, in his harbors.
[4] A short historical account of the revolutions that have taken place
in the Sandwich Islands, from their discovery in 1779, till the arrival
of the author in 1809, collected from the voyages of Cook, Meares,
Portlocke, Vancouver, Broughton, Turnbull, and Lisianski, will be found
in the Appendix, No. IV.
In Tamaahmaah these islanders possess one of those remarkable
characters, who, like Alfred or Peter the Great, seems destined to
hasten the progress of civilization. He is known in this country from
the accounts of Turnbull, Lisianski, and Langsdorf; but as none of
these navigators ever saw that chief, their accounts are consequently
very imperfect; the length of time, however, during which our author
remained in his family, afforded him opportunities of observation
not enjoyed by those of higher qualifications, and in some measure
compensates for the unavoidable defects of his education.
Although no new discoveries, strictly speaking, are recorded, the work
will not be found altogether destitute of useful nautical information;
the account of the reef to the southwest of Halibut Island, upon which
the ship was wrecked, and the numerous rocks that lie near the coast of
Aliaski, will show what ought to be avoided; and in the account of the
south coast of Wahoo, will be found a description of the only harbours
in the Sandwich Islands.
From the humble situation held by the author, a distrust may be
entertained of his qualifications to relate the facts which fell
under his notice; but few, in the same ranks of life, are possessed
of more intelligence or information; with the advantages common to
his countrymen, he seems to have neglected no means of improvement.
It will be seen that at the age of nineteen he was appointed a petty
officer, and had he not been incapacitated by his misfortune, it may be
presumed, that he would soon have attained a higher rank.
The editor has to claim indulgence on his own account. His motives
for undertaking the work, and the principles upon which it has been
executed, have been already stated; the work is published for the
benefit of the poor fellow who is the subject of it; nor would it ever
have met the public eye, had there been any chance that the task would
have been undertaken by another hand. But to rescue much of what is
true and extraordinary from the oblivion to which the obscure condition
and limited powers of the narrator would have condemned it, appeared
to him well deserving of the labour which he had bestowed. The best
apology for the appearance of the work itself will be found in the
words of a celebrated periodical publication.[5] “It is obvious that
the discovery of new tribes, and the first account of manners formerly
unknown, are by no means more interesting than the subsequent history
of those tribes, and the changes which rapidly take place in their
manners. The greatest obligations, therefore, are conferred upon us by
those adventurous persons who, having visited these islands of late
years, give such statements of what they saw, as enable us to trace the
progress of society in one of its earliest stages, and to estimate the
effects produced by the sudden revolution in their circumstances which
the natives have experienced from their intercourse with Europeans.”
[5] Edinburgh Review, Vol. IX. p. 332.
JAMES SMITH.
_Jordonhill, May, 1816._
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD.
CHAPTER I.
Departure from England--Voyage to China--Transactions at
Canton--Author enters on board an American ship--Passage to
Kamschatka--Touches at Japan--Transactions there--Arrives at the
harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul--Some account of the Russian
settlement in that place.
Early in May, 1806, I entered as seaman on board the Thames Indiaman,
Matthew Riches, Esq. commander, on a voyage to China.
We sailed on the 14th of that month from Motherbank, in company with
the Arniston, Royal Charlotte, Glatton, Marquis of Ely, Marquis of
Wellesley, Monarch, Cirencester, and Neptune, Indiamen, under convoy
of the Lion, 64, and Medusa frigate; we were also accompanied by a
fleet of transports, with troops, destined for the expedition to Buenos
Ayres.
In our voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, no incident occurred worthy
of being recorded, not even the ordinary ceremonies upon crossing the
line. We had a detachment of the 30th regiment on board, the commanding
officer of which did not choose that the men should undergo the ducking
usual upon that occasion. About this time I was appointed sail-maker’s
mate.
We arrived at the Cape on the 7th of August, and remained there 15 days.
We sailed from thence on the 22d; and on the day after our departure,
encountered a severe gale of wind. It came on so suddenly that we had
only time to take in our studding sails; all the others, except the
fore and fore-top gallant sails, were blown out of the bolt ropes;
the ship was running before the wind, and broached to several times;
fortunately, however, we suffered no other damage than the loss of the
sails. We experienced two other gales whilst in the Indian seas, but,
being better prepared, met with no material accident.
On the 12th of September we saw the island of St. Paul, and arrived at
Pulo Penang, or Prince of Wales’ Island, about the middle of October.
We proceeded on our voyage for China on the 24th of November, and
anchored at Wampoa on the 18th of January, 1807.
Having remained there nearly six weeks, and taken in about half of
our cargo, an unfortunate dispute took place between the crew of the
Neptune and some Chinese, in which one of the latter lost his life.
In consequence of this, the government insisted that a man should be
given up in his place, and stopped the loading of the ships to enforce
compliance with this demand, threatening, at the same time, to prevent
their departure by choking up the second bar.[6] As a measure of
precaution the ships dropped down the river below the bar, and a boat
was despatched to Canton to wait the orders of the commodore.
[6] For an account of the dispute, see Appendix, No. IV. Note B.
I was sent in the cutter on this service; and during the time of our
stay in that city, the captain of the American ship Arthur, bound to
Rhode-Island, endeavored to induce me to quit the ship I belonged to,
by offering high wages, and a bounty of twenty dollars; I, however,
declined his proposals. Afterwards, when I was in company with a
comrade of the name of Allen, we were met by another American captain,
who also tried to persuade us, by offering still higher wages; we
resisted his offers, till he informed us that his ship was bound for
the South Seas and the north west coast of America.--It had always
been my ambition to visit those distant parts of the world, and the
opportunity that now presented itself was too tempting to be resisted.
We agreed to his terms; and as his ship lay at Wampoa, he concealed
us in the American factory till an opportunity of proceeding thither
should occur.
Whilst at this place, we very narrowly escaped detection. Being in want
of provisions, we sent out a Chinese to buy some bread, and gave him a
dollar stampted with Captain Riches’ initials. Instead of fulfilling
his commission, he took the dollar to the captain, and brought him
to the factory. When we saw them approach, we made our escape from a
window to the top of an adjoining house, and ran along the roofs, till
we reached a warehouse, which we asked permission to pass through; this
the owner refusing, I went out on a beam that crossed the street, and
dropped on the ground, being a fall of about eighteen feet.--When the
Chinese observed this, he allowed my comrade to pass through the house.
I was a good deal stunned with the fall, but soon recovered myself. We
then got to the river side, where we hired a _san-pan_, or small boat,
to take us to Wampoa, and reached the ship with no other interruption.
She was called the Eclipse, and belonged to Boston; a new ship, on her
first voyage, commanded by Captain Joseph O’Kean. She was chartered by
the Russian American Company, for their settlements at Kamschatka, and
the northwest coast of America, with a cargo of nankeens, tea, silks,
sugar, rice, and other articles, the produce of China. The number of
the crew, including officers, amounted to twenty-eight, four or five
of which were procured from the Indiamen. There was also a Russian
supercargo.
At Captain O’Cain’s desire I changed my name, which I entered on the
ship’s books as Archibald Macbride.
Having completed our cargo, the ship sailed on her voyage upon the
eighth of May.--When opposite to Macao, we saw the Indian fleet
getting under way; the Captain, fearing that the man-of-war might
board us, and take the men belonging to the India ships, put back, and
remained within the Bocca Tigris till they were out of sight.
On the 6th of June we descried the coast of Japan, and ran along shore
till we reached the bay of Nangasaki.
We stood into the bay under Russian colors, and were met by an immense
fleet of boats, who took possession of the ship, and towed her to the
anchorage. When about half way up the bay, the Dutch ambassador came
off. He could speak English; and finding we were Americans, advised
us to haul down the colors, informing us that the natives were much
exasperated at some outrages lately committed by the Russians upon
their islands. We found this to be so much the case, that we deemded
it prudent to keep the supercargo out of sight during the whole of our
stay.[7]
[7] It appears from Dr Langsdorf’s Voyage, that the _amour propre_
of the Russian ambassador, Von Resanoff, was so much mortified by
his reception at Japan, that he despatched in October, 1806, an
expedition against the most southern of the Kurile islands, where the
Japanese have settlements. A second expedition was undertaken in May,
1807.--_Vide_ _Langsdorf, Vol II. p. 298._
When the ship was moored, eight guard-boats were anchored round
us, within pistol-shot, and no person allowed to land or hold any
communication with the shore; the muskets were taken out of the
arm-chests, and our gunpowder demanded; six or eight kegs were given
up, with the assurance that it was all we had.
Seeing so many boats come off, a large assortment of articles of trade
was brought on deck, but none of the people would make any purchase.
They told us they had plenty of every thing we had to offer.
When the captain was asked what brought him to Japan, he replied, want
of water and fresh provisions; and ordered several butts in the hold to
be started and hoisted on deck empty. Next day a plentiful supply was
sent off, in small boats, filled with water, and in tubs, which we were
obliged to empty on deck, stopping the scuppers, and allowing it to run
off at night. We were also abundantly supplied with fresh fish, hogs,
and vegetables; the whole of which was furnished gratis.
On the third day of our stay, the Captain, finding nothing was to be
gained by remaining, got under way. The arms and ammunition were
immediately restored, and the ship was towed about five miles out of
the bay, by nearly a hundred boats; on parting the crews cheered us,
waving their hats and hands.
The town of Nangasaki was concealed by an island; but from the view we
had of the land, it seemed to be in a state of high cultivation, and
very populous. The natives have the appearance and complexion of the
Chinese, but are taller in stature.
Their boats, which were open, with small covered cabins abaft, were
mounted with guns, about the size of our largest swivels. Instead of
being rowed they were sculled; the oars on each side never being lifted
out of the water. In each of them were two men, apparently officers,
dressed in loose frocks or gowns, with long hanging sleeves. These were
armed with matchlocks, and had a sabre hanging at each side.
After leaving Nangasaki, we navigated the strait which separates the
principal island of Japan from others that lie to the north: in several
places it is not above five miles broad. On each side the country
is beautiful, abounding with cultivated fields, woods, villages,
and single houses. Frequently, when near the coast, we observed the
inhabitants come down to the shore, and make signals, as if to invite
us to land; but, after the reception we had already experienced, the
captain did not choose to have any further communication with the
Japanese.[8]
[8] Those friendly invitations seem to be somewhat inconsistent with
the inhospitable character of the Japanese. It is most likely, however,
that the author is mistaken in the nature of the signals they made,
which were more probably those of reproach than kindness, similar to
those captain Saris was assailed with--“Core, core cocori ware,”--“you
Coreans, with false hearts.”
_Vide_ _Quarterly Review, Vol. IV. p. 379._
At one time, in a thick fog, we were alarmed with the noise of
breakers, apparently very near. Upon sounding, we found twenty fathoms,
sandy bottom, and immediately let go the anchor. When the haze cleared
away, we found ourselves close to a remarkable island or rock, about
the size and the height of the craig of Ailsea, in the Frith of Clyde.
An archway passed completely through it; and into this the sea rushed
with that tremendous noise which had occasioned our late alarm.
In about a week we were clear of the strait, and proceeded on our
voyage.
The 4th of July, being the anniversary of American Independence, was
celebrated by a salute. One of the guns having missed fire, the captain
took the powder-horn to prime it; in doing which some fire in the gun
kindled the powder, and exploded the horn. By this accident his hand
was dreadfully scorched and lacerated.
Upon the 6th we descried the two lofty mountains of St. Peter and St.
Paul, in Kamschatka.
Owing to foggy weather, it was two days before we discovered the
entrance of Awatska bay. We were within the heads on the 8th, and
were met by a Russian boat, on board of which was Mr. Meznikoff,
commissioner of the store, who piloted us into the harbour of
Petrapaulouska, or St. Peter and St. Paul. The ship having been seen
off the coast, intelligence had been given of our arrival by people
stationed for the purpose at a light-house on the north side of the
entrance.
Awatska bay is a spacious basin, 25 or 30 miles in circumference; any
part of it would afford safe anchorage, but it has three very fine
harbours. That of St. Peter and St. Paul, where we lay, is sheltered
from every wind by a projecting woody point; but, owing to the great
height of the mountains is subject to heavy squalls.
The entrance to the bay is not above a mile and a half wide, and may
be known by several remarkable rocks on the starboard hand going in,
somewhat like the needles at the Isle of Wight.
We remained at St. Peter and St. Paul thirty-three days, and discharged
nearly one third of our cargo.
The town, although the principal sea-port of the Peninsula of
Kamschatka, is nothing more than a miserable village, containing 300
or 400 inhabitants, of whom about two-thirds are Russians and the
remainder natives. It is situated on an eminence above the harbour,
and, with the exception of the governor’s house, consists of huts of
one story high, built of logs and covered with thatch. In a few of them
the windows are glazed with talc, but more generally the intestine of
the seal supplies the place of glass.
The huts of the natives lie below the town towards the shore. They are
almost wholly under ground, nothing but the roof being seen, which
is long and rounded at the top, resembling a vessel with the bottom
upwards.
On a rising ground on the north side of the harbour, near the
governor’s house, stands an obelisk, erected to the memory of Captain
Clerke, the coadjutor of Captain Cook, who died at sea, and was buried
at this place. The monument is about sixteen or eighteen feet high,
built of hewn stone, with a ship on the top; there were inscriptions
on each side, which were much defaced by the weather; and owing to
the rail which surrounded the place, we could not get near enough to
ascertain in what language they were written.[9]
[9] The inscriptions will be found in Captain Krusenstern’s Voyage. The
Monument was erected by the officers of his ship, the Nadeshda, near
the tree where Captain Clerke was buried.
_Krusenstern, Vol II. p. 203._
The natives are stout made, round-faced, with a yellowish complexion.
The men are dressed in skin frocks; the women in a similar dress made
of nankeen.
The country round is perfectly barren, and no cultivation of any kind
is to be seen, except one or two gardens near the town.
They have a few horses and horned cattle; but these are so scarce, that
the fresh beef we required was brought from Boltcheresk, a distance of
seventy miles.
On the right hand entrance of the bay, and round by the foot of the
mountain, the country is covered with wood, chiefly pines.
The town and its neighbourhood are infested with an immense number of
the dogs used for sledges in winter. At this season, they are allowed
to go at large and find food for themselves. They live almost entirely
upon fish, which they obtain either by springing upon them as they lie
in the water, or picking them up dead along the shore. In winter, they
are fed upon dried fish, which are cured in large open sheds erected
for that purpose on the shore, and which, it would appear, they prefer
to any other food. Our sailors, by way of amusement, often purloined a
few to give to the dogs; in consequence of which kindness, thousands
of these hungry creatures watched the landing of our boat, and flocked
after us, to the great annoyance of the inhabitants.--This practice
became at last so troublesome, that the Russians insisted on our
putting an end to it. Their howling every morning at day-break, was so
intolerable, as to awaken us even on board the ship.
Boltcheresk, the capital of Kamschatka, is about seventy miles from
St. Peter and St. Paul. The communication in the winter season is by
sledges drawn by dogs over the snow; in summer the intercourse is
carried on by the river Awatska, which being in some places extremely
shallow, boats of a particular construction are made use of. They are
formed of light frames of wood, covered with tarpaulin, and are so flat
in the bottom that they do not draw above six inches water; they are
extremely light, and can easily be carried over the rapids.
The two remarkable mountains, St. Peter and St. Paul, which give name
to the place, lie about thirty miles to the north. One of them is a
volcano; and when we could see the top, which was seldom free from
clouds, it was constantly smoking, and at night sparks were frequently
to be seen. An eruption took place some time before our arrival, by
which the whole town was covered with ashes.
There were no vessels at this place during our stay, except the wreck
of a ship which had sunk in the harbour; the sails having been loosed
for the purpose of drying, a sudden squall laid her on her beam-ends,
when she filled and went down.[10] As the upper works were above the
surface at low water, it appeared to us that she might have been raised
without much difficulty; but it seems they did not mean to make the
attempt, for her cordage and anchors were put on board our vessel.
[10] It appears from Captain Krusenstern’s voyage, that this was the
Slawa Rossii, the ship commanded by Captain Billing, and afterwards by
Admiral Sarytscheff.
_Krusenstern, Vol. II. page 29._
Whilst we remained here we were abundantly supplied with the finest
salmon, and fish of all descriptions.
Having delivered the part of our cargo which was to be left at this
place, we sailed on the 8th of August for the settlements on the
Aleutian Islands.