The living-room fireplace, invariably the most prominent interior
feature, harmonizes best with a log interior if built of stone and
provided with a crude log shelf. The fireplace itself may be either the
traditional masonry type or the more modern metal-lined one equipped with
a heatilator.
The masonry of the fireplace and its chimney should always start on
solid earth, below the frost line, like the foundations of the building
itself. Masonry does not settle, unlike the surrounding log construction.
Consequently, it is recommended that a self-supporting log framing be
built around and entirely free of the masonry of the fireplace and
chimney, as illustrated in figure 31. The opening should be framed in
the same way as window and door openings. The fireplace and chimney
masonry should not be erected until the opening has been framed for it.
Upon completion, the intersection between the stone and wood should be
thoroughly calked to make an airtight, weatherproof job. This method
allows the wall logs to settle, because of the unavoidable shrinkage,
without structural failure.
[Illustration: Figure 29.--Framing hewed timbers.]
[Illustration: Figure 30.--Mechanical aids in cutting timbers. Method:
Cut both miter boxes at angle _X_ for 1/3 pitch. Fasten them securely to
the floor or to a log, used as a sawhorse, and space exactly the required
distance apart to insure that all rafters are cut alike. Then place each
rafter in the boxes, back down if any curvature exists, dog rigidly in
place and saw to the pattern.
Line A represents the exterior wall face and, if sawed off on line _B_,
parallel with the wall face, overhang of eave will be 1 foot, 6 inches.
Any desired overhang may be had and sawing eliminated by fixing the
distance _C_. The irregularly hewed rafter end is preferable to the
uniform elliptical saw-cut ends. Finally, hew the upper surface of the
rafters to a smooth even bearing to receive the roof sheathing boards.]
[Illustration: Figure 31.--Framing around the fireplace. Framing logs
around fireplace and chimney varies with the effect desired: (1) By using
an exposed vertical slabbed log and spline, as at _A_, with space _X_, to
allow for the shrinkage settling of the logs above the mantel, or (2) by
using a concealed vertical slabbed log and spline, as at _B_, where the
masonry is exposed above the mantel.]
[Illustration: Figure 32.--A useful type of modern log dwelling--ranger
station, Gallatin National Forest, Mont.]
In building an ordinary fireplace, the firebox and inner hearth should
be made of firebrick to withstand intense heat and the various parts
proportioned in accordance with standard practice to insure efficient
operation.[1]
[1] For this purpose the following publication will be found useful:
Farmers' Bulletin 1889, Fireplaces and Chimneys.
The heatilator is a built-in recirculating steel unit consisting of metal
sides and back to form a heating chamber, adjacent to the fire pit, which
draws cold air through a register at each side near the floor and after
the air is heated ejects it through similar registers above. It should be
installed in conformity with the manufacturer's directions, taking care
to select a stock-size unit suitable for the dimensions of the fireplace
opening and to erect the surrounding masonry accordingly.