WINDOW AND DOOR FRAMES

There are two ways of making window and door frames--in three pieces

(two side jambs and one head jamb), or in four pieces (two side jambs,

one head jamb, and a sill piece). When a three-piece frame is used, the

bottom log of the opening is cut or shaped to make the window or doorsill

and the jamb pieces are then fitted to the sill. If the jambs are framed

from pieces of log slabbed on two opposite sides, a presentable frame in

keeping with the log character of the structure is obtained. The window

or door face of the jamb pieces may be rabbeted for the windows and

doors, respectively, or they may have separate wooden pieces, known as

stops, nailed on. The spline on the back of the jamb may be rabbeted out,

or a 2 inch by 2 inch piece of straight-grained wood nailed on. The head

jamb can be framed in the same way; it does not require a spline on the

back. Each side jamb has a dowel framed on each end. The bottom dowel

fits into a mortise in the sill and the top dowel into a similar mortise

in the head jamb.

[Illustration: Figure 15.--Window frames.]

In a four-piece frame, the sill log is cut with a slope, in the customary

way, and the jambs are fitted as for a three-piece frame. Figure 15

illustrates the installation of three- and four-piece window frames.

When the head jamb or top log over the opening is reached, the frames are

ready for installation. The opening is now cut out, the sill fashioned,

the vertical spline slot framed, and the head jamb log cut out to fit

over the opening. At this point, the amount of settlement resulting from

the shrinkage of the wall logs, as they dry out, must be determined and a

corresponding allowance provided in the opening. This allowance is made

between the upper side of the headpiece of the frame and the bottom of

the log directly over the opening, and should be from 2-1/2 to 4 inches

for a door 6 feet 8 inches to 7 feet in height, or 1-1/2 to 3 inches

for an ordinary double hung window. The log over the opening should be

notched out on the under side so that it can be dropped in place after

the frame has been set in position.

When the type of window or door frame here described is used, neither

outside nor inside casings, sometimes called wood trim, are required. The

logs selected for the jamb material should be from 2 to 3 inches larger

in diameter than the wall logs, in order to fit properly. Also, they will

be much easier to work if well-seasoned (fig. 16).

[Illustration: Figure 16.--Log jamb window frame.]

[Illustration: Figure 17.--Typical log-wall section, taken through

window.]

If standard mill work frames are used, false side jambs of sawed

material, usually 2-inch planks, should be fitted in the openings to hold

the logs in place. For a wall made of 10-inch logs, a plank 2 inches by

10 inches should be used for the jambs and the standard frame fitted in

place between them after providing the necessary allowance for the wall

logs to shrink or settle. The head casing ordinarily will cover the space

allowed for shrinkage.

Some kind of insulating material which will take compression, such as

crumpled newspapers, asbestos wool fiber, or rock wool, may be used to

fill the space over the head allowed for settlement. Insulating material

must be installed loosely, so as not to take any weight as the headlog

gradually settles.

[Illustration: Figure 18.--Various ways of framing eaves. Despite the

fact that sawed rafters, as shown above, are often used for convenience

in framing the roof, sawed or milled material is incongruous in

appearance in the exterior of log buildings Hence, pole rafters,

hand-made shakes, and similar hand-riven features are preferred.]

For the log-type frame, copper or galvanized steel flashing should be

fastened to the bottom of the cut in the top log, leaving the lower edge

of the flashing free to slide on the face of the log head jamb. As the

wall settles, the bottom of the flashing can be trimmed off if too much

of the face of the head jamb is covered. This makes a weathertight joint

and protects the insulating material with which the shrinkage space has

been filled. See figure 17, Head section.

[Illustration: Figure 19.--Framing log purlins for shakes.]

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