Mpende, near the shore of Lake Nyassa. Here one of his attendants, in
whom he thought he could place confidence, and whom he had liberated
from slavery, insisted on leaving him, making various excuses for doing
so. He also tried to induce another youth, named Chumah, to desert; but
the latter coming to the doctor, who suspected that he would only be
made a slave of, persuaded him to remain.
The next halt was made at the residence of a Babisa chief, who was
suffering from sickness; and here the doctor remained till he had seen
him restored to health.
While at this place an Arab arrived, and declared that he had escaped
from a marauding band of Mazitu, who had plundered him of his property.
He so worked on Musa, the captain of the Johanna men, who pretended to
believe his account, that Musa entreated the doctor to return; but when
the Babisa chief denounced the Arab as an impostor, Musa confessed that
his great object was to get back to his family at Johanna.
On finding that the doctor persevered in his intention to proceed
westward, Musa and his followers deserted him.
Thus was Livingstone left with only three or four attendants to
prosecute his journey, while those who had gone off had robbed him of
much of his property and even the greater part of his own clothes.
Leaving the Nyassa, he proceeded westward, passing through the
territories of numerous chiefs, who generally treated him hospitably,
though he had numerous difficulties to encounter, and constantly met
with misfortunes.
Continuing his course west and north-west, he came to a large river
flowing west, called the Chambezi, and, in consequence of the similarity
of its name to that of the stream he had so long navigated, he
concluded, trusting to the accounts given by Dr Lacerda, that it was
but the head water of the Zambesi. He pushed on therefore, without
paying it the attention he otherwise would have done. He subsequently
discovered that it fell into a large lake called Bangueolo, to the south
of which are a range of mountains which cut it off completely from the
Zambesi.
Directing his course to the north-west, through the large province of
Londa, he reached the town of a chief named Kazembe, of whom he had
heard through Dr Lacerda.
This prince was a very intelligent man, with a fine commanding figure.
He received Dr Livingstone, dressed in a kilt of crimson stuff,
surrounded by his nobles and guards.
The doctor had previously received a visit from a chief, who called to
enquire the objects he had in view, and who now announced in due form
the reply he had received. He stated that the white man had arrived for
the purpose of ascertaining what rivers and lakes existed in the
country, though, as he observed, it was difficult to comprehend why he
wished to gain such information. The king then, having put various
questions to the doctor, the answers to which seemed to satisfy him,
gave him leave to travel wherever he liked throughout his dominions, and
assured him that he could do so without the risk of interference from
any of his subjects. He had never before seen an Englishman, and he was
pleased to see one for whom he already felt a regard. Soon after the
doctor received the announcement that the queen would honour him by a
visit, and a dignified fine-looking young woman, holding a spear in her
hand, and followed by a number of damsels also with spears, made her
appearance, evidently intending to produce an effect upon the white
stranger. Her costume, however, and the enormous weapon she carried in
her hand, seems so to have tickled the doctor's fancy, that he burst
into a fit of laughter. The lady herself and her attendant maidens,
unable to resist the influence of the doctor's laugh, joined in the fun,
and, wheeling about, rapidly beat a retreat. The doctor quickly made
himself at home with his new friends, and under their protection
commenced a series of researches which occupied him for many months.
Londa, Kazembe's capital, is situated on the small Lake Mopo. To the
north of it is a very much larger lake called Moero, surrounded by lofty
mountains, clothed to their summits with the rich vegetation of the
tropics. The whole scenery is indeed beautiful and magnificent in the
extreme.
This is, however, only one of a series of lakes which the doctor
discovered in the wide-extending province of Londa. The most southern
is the large lake of Bangueolo, four thousand feet above the level of
the sea, its area almost equal to that of Lake Tanganyika. It is into
this lake that the Chambezi and a vast number of other smaller streams
empty themselves.
As the Chambezi rises in the lofty plateau of Lobisa, six thousand six
hundred feet above the level of the sea, the doctor is inclined, from
the discoveries he afterwards made, to consider that it is the true
source of the Nile, which, if such is the case, would give that river a
length in direct latitude of upwards of two thousand miles, making it
only second to the Mississippi, the longest river on the face of the
globe.
This will be seen as we proceed with the account of his interesting
discoveries.
The next important fact to be observed is that a larger river than any
of them, called the Luapula, runs out of the lake into Lake Moero. Out
of the northern end of the Lake Moero again another large river, the
Lualaba, runs thundering forth through a vast chasm, and then, expanding
into a calm stream of great width, winds its way north and west till it
enters a third large lake, the Kamolondo. The doctor gave it the
additional name of Webb's River. In some places he found it to be three
miles broad. He perseveringly followed it down its course, and found it
again making its exit from Lake Kamolondo, till it was joined by other
large rivers, some coming from the south and others from the east, till
he reached the village of Nyangwe, in latitude 4 degrees south. Here,
having exhausted the means of purchasing fresh provisions, and his
followers refusing to proceed further, he was compelled to bring his
journey northward to a termination. This was not till the year 1871.
He, however, heard of another enormous lake to the northward, into which
the Lualaba empties itself, bounded by a range to the westward called
the Balegga mountains. From the information he received, he believed
that this last-mentioned lake is connected by a series of small lakes,
or by a somewhat sluggish stream, with the Albert Nyanza, the waters of
which undoubtedly flow into the Nile.
Of course it is possible that the waters which flow out of this large
unknown lake, instead of running to the north-east into the Albert
Nyanza, may have a westerly or north-westerly course, in which case,
instead of making their way into the Nile, they may be feeders of the
Congo river.
To the south-west of Lake Kamolondo the doctor discovered another large
lake, to which he gave the name of Lake Lincoln, after the President of
the United States, the liberator of their negro population.
Another large river, the Lomame, flowing from the southward, enters this
lake, and, passing out again at its northern end, joins the Luaba, which
after this takes an almost, northerly course.
These discoveries occupied Dr Livingstone three years. After his
discovery of Lake Moero, while residing with Kazembe, he unfortunately
became acquainted with a half-caste Moor, named Mahommed Ben Sali, who
had been detained as a prisoner by the king. The doctor obtained his
release, and allowed the Arab to accompany him. The villainous old
fellow, in return, did his utmost to ruin Dr Livingstone, by inducing
his attendants to desert him, and even Susi and Chumah for a time were
won over, though they ultimately returned to the doctor.
During his journeys, now to the west, now to the east, he met, in the
latter quarter, a large sheet of water, which he discovered to be the
southern end of Lake Tanganyika, and, after remaining some time with
Kazembe, he set off, and crossed over to Ujiji, which he reached about
the middle of March, 1869. After resting here till June, he again
crossed the lake, and proceeded westward with a party of traders till he
reached the large village of Bambarra, in Manyema.
It is the chief ivory depot in that province, where large quantities are
obtained.
He was here detained six months, suffering severely from ulcers in his
feet, which prevented him putting them to the ground, and from thence it
was, when again able to set out, that he discovered the course of the
Lualaba, which occupied him till the year 1871.
From Nyangwe, as before mentioned, he was compelled to return eastward
to Ujiji, a distance of seven hundred miles. Manyema, in the province
of Ruo, lying directly to the south of it, is inhabited by heathens,
each village governed by its own chief, holding little or no
communication with their neighbours. The people appear to be mild and
inoffensive, though perfect pagans. They posses a considerable amount
of ingenuity, and manufacture a most beautiful fabric from fine grass,
equal to the finest grass cloth of India.
So numerous are the elephants which range through the wilds of this
region, that until the Arabs unhappily made their way into it, the
people were accustomed to form their door-posts and partially to build
their houses with ivory tusks. The inhabitants, who were then
unacquainted with firearms, were so terrified at hearing the reports of
the Arabs' muskets and feeling their effects, that they did not attempt
to defend themselves, and already great numbers had been carried off
into slavery by the abominable kidnappers.
Dr Livingstone witnessed a horrible massacre committed by one of these
wretches, a half-caste Arab, Tagamoyo by name, with his armed slaves, on
a number of the helpless inhabitants collected in a market-place on the
bank of the Lualaba. While the people, unsuspicious of danger, were
assembled, to the number of two thousand, eagerly carrying on their
trade, the wretch Tangamoyo suddenly appeared, and opened fire upon
them. Numbers were shot down, others rushed to their canoes, and, in
their terror, made off without their companions, while many, throwing
themselves headlong into the water, were seized by the voracious
crocodiles. Upwards of four hundred women and children were killed,
while a greater number were carried off into slavery.
The doctor describes the people as of light colour, with well-formed
features. Being of gentle manners, they are eagerly sought for by the
Arabs, whose wives they sometimes become.
Further to the north he met with a race not darker than the Portuguese,
and a remarkably handsome people, who seemed to have a peculiar aptitude
for commerce.
In Ruo he discovered some rich copper mines.
On reaching Ujiji, on the 16th of October, 1871, greatly to his dismay
he found that Sherrif, into whose charge he had committed his goods,
had, believing him to be dead, sold the whole of them for ivory, which
he had appropriated.
Thus, the doctor, already suffering fearfully from illness, found
himself deprived of the means of purchasing food or paying his way back
to the coast. The letters, stores, and provisions sent to him from
Zanzibar had been detained on the road.
What might have been his fate had he not been succoured by Mr Stanley,
who, as we are about to relate, at the head of the "New York Herald"
expedition, so nobly and gallantly made his way across to find him, it
is impossible to say.
CHAPTER TWENTY SIX.
STANLEY'S EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF DR. LIVINGSTONE.
STANLEY SENT OUT BY MR. BENNETT, OF THE "NEW YORK HERALD"--REACHES
ZANZIBAR--DR. KIRK--HIS WHITE AND NATIVE ATTENDANTS--BOMBAY ENGAGED--
BOATS PREPARED--CROSSES TO BAGOMOYO--JESUIT MISSION--FINDS CARAVAN FOR
RELIEF OF LIVINGSTONE DETAINED--DIFFICULTIES TO BE SURMOUNTED--PORTERS
ABSCOND--MISCONDUCT OF WHITE MEN--A STRONGLY FORTIFIED TOWN--ATTACKED BY
FEVER--SENDS FARQUHAR SICK TO MPWAPWA, WHERE HE DIES--SHAW FIRES AT
STANLEY--STANLEY'S COOL CONDUCT--EXPEDITION ENTERS UGOGO WITH ARAB
CARAVAN--HEAVY TRIBUTE DEMANDED BY SULTAN OF MVUMI--DONKEYS DIE--JOURNEY
THROUGH JUNGLE--COUNTRY LAID WASTE BY ARAB SLAVE-TRADERS--WELL RECEIVED
BY MKASWA--LIVINGSTONE CARAVAN ARRIVES--PREPARES TO START FOR UJIJI--
SOME OF HIS MEN JOIN ARABS IN AN ATTACK ON A TOWN, AND ARE DEFEATED--
STANLEY AND SHAW NARROWLY ESCAPE--RETURNS TO KIVIHARA--THE PLACE
THREATENED--PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE--HEARS NEWS OF LIVINGSTONE--
RECEIVES PRESENT OF A SLAVE BOY, KIULU--FOLLOWERS PROVE REFRACTORY--SETS
OUT--SENDS SHAW BACK--NARROW ESCAPE FROM A CROCODILE--DONKEY SEIZED BY
CROCODILE--MEET CARAVAN FROM UJIJI--MORE NEWS OF LIVINGSTONE--THREATENED
BY WAHHA--PASS VILLAGE AT NIGHT--NEARLY DISCOVERED--LAKE TANGANYIKA
SEEN--DR. LIVINGSTONE FOUND AT LAST--LIVINGSTONE RECOVERS--CHARACTER OF
LIVINGSTONE--VOYAGE ON LAKE TANGANYIKA--THE RUSIZI RIVER--LIVINGSTONE
AND STANLEY SET OFF FROM UJIJI TOGETHER--JOURNEY TO MKASWA, AND STAY
THERE--LIVINGSTONE REMAINS, AND STANLEY PROCEEDS TO ZANZIBAR TO FIT OUT
AN EXPEDITION TO ASSIST HIM--FINDS KISALUNGO DESTROYED BY A FLOOD--
DREADFUL FLOODS--ADVENTURES ON JOURNEY--MEETS WITH THE LIVINGSTONE
RELIEF EXPEDITION--IT IS DISBANDED--DISBANDS HIS OWN, AND FITS OUT A
FRESH ONE--STARTS IT OFF, AND SAILS FOR ENGLAND VIA THE SEYCHELLES--
NOBLE LIBERALITY OF MR. BENNETT.
The spirited proprietor of the "New York Herald," James Gordon Bennett,
having become deeply interested in the fate of Dr Livingstone,
determined to send out one of his special correspondents, Mr Henry M.
Stanley, then at Madrid, to Africa, in search of the traveller.
Arriving in Paris, Stanley received his instructions, which were, first
to ascertain in Egypt what Sir Samuel Baker--then about to start up the
Nile--intended to do, and, after visiting a good many other places, to
make his way _via_ Bombay, Mauritius, and the Seychelles, to Zanzibar.
He carried out his instructions, and arrived in January, 1871, at
Zanzibar, which he found to be a much more beautiful and fertile island
than he had supposed.
He soon introduced himself to Dr Kirk, and, without delay, set about
making the necessary preparations for his journey.
The great difficulty was to obtain information as to the amount of food,
or rather the articles for purchasing it, which would be required for
the hundred men he proposed enlisting in his service.
He had engaged at Jerusalem a Christian Arab boy named Selim, who was to
act as his interpreter, and he had also on the voyage attached to the
expedition two mates of merchantmen, Farquhar and Shaw, who were very
useful in constructing tents and arranging two boats and the
pack-saddles and packages for the journey, but who proved in other
respects very poor travellers. He also secured the services of that now
well-known hero, Bombay, captain of Speke's faithfuls, and five of his
other followers, Uledi, Grant's valet, and the bull-headed Mabruki, who
had in the mean time lost one of his hands, but, notwithstanding, was
likely to prove useful. They were the only remains of the band to be
found, the rest having died or gone elsewhere. These six still retained
their medals for assisting in the discovery of the source of the Nile.
The boats, one of which was capable of carrying twenty people and the
other six, were stripped of their planks, the timbers and thwarts only
being carried. Instead of the planking it was proposed to cover them
with double canvas skin, well tarred. They and the rest of the baggage
were carried in loads, none exceeding sixty-eight pounds in weight. Two
horses and twenty-seven donkeys were purchased, and a small cart, while
the traveller had brought with him a watch-dog, which he hoped would
guard his tent from prowling thieves. An ample supply of beads, cloth,
and wire were also laid in, with tea, sugar, rice, and medicine. To
Bombay and his faithfuls were added eighteen more free men, who were all
well-armed, and when mustered appeared an exceedingly fine-looking body
of soldiers. These were to act as escort to the _pagazis_, or carriers.
On the 4th of February, 1871, the expedition was ready, and on the 5th
embarked in four dhows, which conveyed it across to Bagomoyo on the
mainland.
Here it was detained five weeks while its persevering leader was
combatting the rogueries of Ali Ben Salim and another Arab, Hadji
Palloo, who had undertaken to secure one hundred and forty _pagazis_.
The packages were rearranged, the tents improved, and other necessary
arrangements made.
He found here a caravan which had been despatched by the British Consul
a hundred days before to the relief of Dr Livingstone; but which, its
leader making as an excuse that he was unable to obtain a fresh number
of _pagazis_, had hitherto remained inactive.
The climate of Bagomoyo is far superior to that of Zanzibar.
In its neighbourhood a French Jesuit mission has been for some time
established, with ten priests and as many sisters, who have been very
successful in educating two hundred boys and girls. The priests
sumptuously entertained Mr Stanley with excellent champagne and claret,
while some of their pupils, among whom they had formed an excellent
brass band, amused them with instrumental music and French songs.
He divided his expedition into five caravans, the first of which he
started off on the 18th of February, although it was not till March 21st
that he with the largest was able to commence his journey westward.
Altogether the expedition numbered on the day of departure, besides the
commander and his two white attendants, twenty-three soldiers, four
chiefs, one hundred and fifty-three _pagazis_, and four supernumeraries.
Every possible care had been bestowed on the outfit, and in nothing
that it needed was it stinted.
Bombay proved to be as honest and trustworthy as formerly, while Ferajji
and Mabruki turned out true men and staunch, the latter, on one
occasion, finding a difficulty in dragging the cart, having brought it
along on his head rather than abandon it.
The Kinganni river was reached by a bridge rapidly formed with American
axes, the donkeys refusing to pass through the water.
The country due west of Bagomoyo was found to be covered with towns and
villages which were previously unknown.
Soon after starting, Omar, the watch-dog was missing, when Mabruki,
hastening back, found him at the previous halting-place.
One of the caravans at the same place was detained by the sickness of
three of the _pagazis_, whose places it was necessary to supply.
Stanley soon had to experience the invariable troubles of African
travellers. His two horses died within a few hours of each other, both,
however, from disease of long standing, and not from the climate.
Few men were better able to deal with the rogueries of the petty chiefs
he met with than Mr Stanley. He had always a ready answer, and
invariably managed to catch them in their own traps, while the "great
master," as he was called, managed to keep all his subordinates in
pretty good order.
One of his _pagazis_, Khamisi, under Shaw's command, having absconded,
Uledi and Ferajji found him, having fallen into the hands of some
plundering Washensi, who were about to kill him. A court of eight
soldiers and eight _pagazis_, having been convened, condemned him to be
flogged with the "great master's" donkey-whip. As Shaw ought to have
kept a better look out, he was ordered to give him one blow and the
_pagazis_ and soldiers the remainder. This being done, the man was
pardoned.
Moving on, the expedition passed Simbamwenni, the capital of Useguhha,
the fortifications of which are equal to any met with in Persia. The
area of the town is about half a square mile, while four towers of stone
guard each corner. There are four gates, one in each wall, which are
closed with solid square doors of African teak, and carved with
complicated devices.
It is ruled by the daughter of the infamous Kisalungo, notorious as a
robber and kidnapper, another Theodore on a small scale.
Before long Stanley was attacked with fever, which greatly prostrated
his strength, though he quickly recovered by taking strong dozes of
quinine.
The most painful event which occurred was the flight of Bunda Selim, who
had been punished for pilfering rations. The men sent after him were
seized and imprisoned by the Sultana of Simbamwenni, and, though
ultimately liberated by the interference of an Arab sheikh, nothing
could be found of the missing cook. Shaw also fell ill, and left the
task of urging on the floundering caravan through marshes and rivers to
his superior. Several of the others followed his example, and even
Bombay complained of pains and became unserviceable.
The report from Farquhar's caravan was most unsatisfactory, he, as far
as Stanley could make out, having lost all his donkeys. The unhappy
man, indeed, he found on overtaking him, was suffering from dropsy. He
had also given to the _pagazis_ and soldiers no small amount of the
contents of the bales committed to his charge, as payment for the
services he had demanded of them, and in purchasing expensive luxuries.
As he could not walk and was worse than useless, Stanley was obliged to
send the sick man, under the charge of Mabruki, thirty miles away to the
village of Mpwapwa, to the chief of which place he promised an ample
reward if he would take care of him.
Worse than all the wretched Shaw, after a dispute, during the night
fired into his tent, too evidently with the intention of killing him.
He found the intended murderer pretending to be asleep, with a gun by
his side yet warm. Unable to deny that he had fired, he declared that
in his dreams he had seen a thief pass his door; and then asked what was
the matter? "Oh, nothing," answered Stanley; "but I would advise you in
future, in order to avoid all suspicion, not to fire into my tent, or at
least, so near me. I might get hurt, in which case ugly reports would
get about, and this, perhaps, would be disagreeable, as you are probably
aware. Good night!"
On reaching Mpwapwa the Chief Lencolo positively refused to take charge
of the white man unless an interpreter was left with him, and Jako, who
was the only one of the party besides Bombay and Selim who could speak
English, was ordered to remain in that capacity.
The expedition was now about to enter Ugogo. During the passage of the
intervening desert, five out of the nine donkeys died, the cart having
some time before been left behind.
The expedition was now joined by several Arab caravans, so that the
number of the party amounted to about four hundred souls, strong in
guns, flags, horns sounding, drums, and noise. This host was to be led
by Stanley and Sheikh Hamed through the dreaded Ugogo.
On the 26th of May they were at Mvumi, paying heavy tribute to the
sultan. Nothing seemed to satisfy him. Stanley suggested that as he
had twenty Wazunga armed with Winchester repeating rifles, he might make
the sultan pay tribute to him. The sheikh entreated that he would act
peaceably, urging that angry words might induce the sultan to demand
double the tribute.
While here five more donkeys died, and their bones were picked clean
before the morning by the hyaenas.
The tribute was paid to preserve peace, and on the 27th, shaking the
dust of Mvumi off their feet, the party proceeded westward. The country
was one vast field of grain, and thickly populated.
Between that place and the next sultan's district twenty-five villages
were counted. Whenever they halted large groups of people assembled and
greeted with peals of laughter the dress and manner of the _mzungu_, or
white man, and more than once had to be kept at a distance by Stanley's
rifle or pistols, sometimes his thick whip coming into play.