travellers felt that they were in the company of men who were totally
unlike the common order of the natives of the surrounding districts.
They had fine oval faces, large eyes, and high noses, denoting the best
blood of Abyssinia. They shook hands in the English style, the
ever-smiling king wishing to know what they thought of his country. He
observed that he considered his mountains the finest in the world: "And
the lake, too; did not they admire it?" He seemed a very intelligent
man, and enquired how they found their way over the world, which led to
a long story, describing the proportions of land and water, the way
ships navigate the ocean, and convey even elephants and the rhinoceros
to fill the menageries of Europe. He gave them their choice of having
quarters in his palace or pitching their tents outside. They selected a
spot overlooking the lake, on account of the beautiful view. The young
princes were ordered to attend on them, one of whom, seeing Speke seated
in an iron chair, rushed back to his father with the intelligence.
Speke was accordingly requested to return, that he might exhibit the
white man sitting on his throne. Rumanika burst into a fresh fit of
merriment at seeing him, and afterwards made many enlightened remarks.
On another visit Speke told the king that if he would send two of his
children, he would have them instructed in England, for he admired his
race, and believed them to have sprung from the friends of the English,
the Abyssinians, who were Christians, and had not the Wahuma lost their
knowledge of God, they would be so likewise. A long theological and
historical discussion ensued, which so pleased the king that he said he
would be delighted if Speke would take two of his sons to England. He
then enquired what could induce them to leave their country and travel,
when Speke replied that they had had their fill of the luxuries of life,
and that their great delight was to observe and admire the beauties of
creation, but especially their wish was to pay visits to the kings of
Africa, and in particular his Majesty. He then promised that they
should have boats to convey them over the lake, with musicians to play
before them.
In the afternoon Speke, having heard that it was the custom to fatten up
the wives of the king and princes to such an extent that they could not
stand upright, paid a visit to the king's eldest brother. On entering
the hut, he found the old chief and his wife sitting side by side on a
bench of earth strewed over with grass, while in front of them were
placed numerous wooden pots of milk. Speke was received by the prince
with great courtesy, and was especially struck by the extraordinary
dimensions, yet pleasing beauty of the immoderately fat fair one, his
wife. She could not rise. So large were her arms that between the
joints the flesh hung like large loose bags. Then came in their
children, all models of the Abyssinian type of beauty, and as polite in
their manners as thorough-bred gentlemen. They were delighted in
looking over his picture-books and making enquiries about them. The
prince, pointing to his wife, observed: "This is all the product of
those pots, as, from early youth upwards, we keep those pots to their
mouths, being the custom of the court to have very fat wives."
The king, having supposed that the travellers had been robbed of all
their goods, was delighted with the liberal presents he received, above
all that of a coat of handsome scarlet broadcloth. He told them that
they might visit every part of his country, and when the time arrived
for proceeding to Uganda, he would escort them to the boundary.
Altogether, Rumanika was the most intelligent and best-looking ruler the
travellers met with in Africa. He had nothing of the African in his
appearance, except that his hair was short and woolly. He was fully six
feet two inches in height, and the expression of his countenance was
mild and open. He was fully clothed in a robe made of small
antelope-skins and another of dark cloth, always carrying, when walking,
a long staff in his hand. His four sons were favourable specimens of
their race, especially the eldest, named Chunderah. He was somewhat of
a dandy, being more neat about his lion-skin covers and ornaments than
his brothers. From the tuft of wool left unshaven on the crown of his
head to his waist he was bare, except when his arms and neck were
decorated with charmed horns, strips of otter-skin, shells, and bands of
wool. He was fond of introducing Friz, Speke's head man, into the
palace, that he might amuse his sisters with his guitar, and in return
the sisters, brothers, and followers would sing Karague music. The
youngest son was the greatest favourite, and on one occasion, the
travellers having presented him with a pair of white kid gloves, were
much amused with the dignified way in which he walked off, having coaxed
them on to his fingers.
Rumanika, contrary to the usual African custom, was singularly
abstemious, living almost entirely on milk, merely sucking the juice of
boiled beef. He scarcely ever touched plantain wine or beer, and had
never been known to be intoxicated. The people were generally
excessively fond of this wine, the peasants especially drinking large
quantities of it.
Rumanika was not only king, but priest and prophet; indeed, his
elevation to the throne was due, as his friends asserted, to
supernatural agency. After the death of his father, his two brothers
and he claimed the throne. Their pretentions were to be settled by an
ordeal. They possessed a small magic drum, and, it being placed on the
ground, he who could lift it was to take the crown. His brothers were
unable to stir it, though exerting all their strength, but Rumanika
raised it with his little finger. This test, however, not satisfying
the chiefs, they insisted on Rumanika going through another trial. He
was seated on the ground, and it was believed that if he was the
appointed king, the portion of soil on which he sat would rise up in the
air, but if not, it would collapse, and he would be dashed to pieces.
According to the belief of his subjects, no sooner had Rumanika taken
his seat, than he was raised into the sky, and was therefore
acknowledged king.
One of the most curious customs which Rumanika holds in his character of
high priest, is his new-moon _levee_, which takes place every month, for
the purpose of ascertaining the loyalty of his subjects. On the evening
of the new-moon the king adorns himself with a plume of feathers on his
head, a huge white beard descending to his breast. He takes post behind
a screen. Before him are arranged forty long drums on the ground, on
the head of each of which is painted a white cross. The drummers stand
each with a pair of sticks, and in front is their leader, who has a
couple of small drums slung round his neck. The leader raises first his
right arm and then his left, the performers imitating him, when he
brings down both sticks on the drums with a rapid roll, they doing the
same, until the noise is scarcely to be endured. This having continued
for some hours, with the addition of smaller drums and other musical
instruments, the chiefs advance in succession, leaping and
gesticulating, and shouting expressions of devotion to their sovereign.
Having finished their performance, they kneel before him, holding out
their knobbed sticks that he may touch them, then, retiring, make room
for others.
Civilised as the country is in some respects, marriage is a matter of
barter between the father and the intended husband, the former receiving
cows, slaves, sheep, etcetera, for his daughter. Should, however, a
bride not approve of her husband, by returning the marriage gifts she is
again at liberty. The chief ceremony at marriages consists in tying up
the bride in a skin, blackened all over, and carrying her with a noisy
procession to her husband.
The ladies of this country lead an easy life in many respects, their
chief object, apparently, being to get as fat as possible. Many of them
succeed wonderfully well, in consequence of their peculiar constitution,
or from the food they eat being especially nutritious. Five of
Rumanika's wives were so enormous that they were unable to enter the
door of any ordinary hut, or to move about without being supported by a
person on either side. One of his sisters-in-law was of even still
greater proportions. Speke measured her; round her arm was one foot
eleven inches; chest, four feet four inches; thigh, two feet seven
inches; calf, one foot eight inches; height, five feet eight inches. He
could have obtained her height more accurately could he have had her
laid on the floor; but, knowing the difficulties he would have had to
contend with in such a piece of engineering, he tried to get her height
by raising her up. This, after infinite exertion, was accomplished,
when she sank down again, fainting, for the blood had rushed into her
head. Meanwhile the daughter, a lass of sixteen, sat before them,
sucking at a milk-pot, on which the father kept her at work by holding a
rod in his hand; for, as fattening is one of the first duties of
fashionable female life, it must be duly enforced with the rod if
necessary. The features of the damsel were lovely, but her body was as
round as a ball.
The women turn their obesity to good account. In exchanging food for
beads it is usual to purchase a certain quantity of food, which shall be
paid for by a belt of beads that will go round the waist. The women of
Karague being on an average twice as large round the waist as those of
other districts, food practically rises a hundred per cent, in price.
Notwithstanding their fatness their features retain much beauty, the
face being oval and the eyes fine and intelligent. The higher class of
women are modest, not only wearing cow-skin petticoats, but a wrapper of
black cloth, with which they, envelope their whole bodies, merely
allowing one hand to be seen.
The travellers were allowed to move about the country as they liked, and
the king sent his sons to attend on them, that they might enjoy such
sport as was to be found. They heard of no elephants in that district,
but harte-beestes, rhinoceros, and hippopotami were common.
One day Captain Grant saw two harte-beestes engaged in a desperate
combat, halting calmly between each round to breathe. He could hear,
even at a considerable distance, the force of every butt as their heads
met, and, as they fell on their knees, the impetus of the attack,
sending their bushy tails over their backs, till one, becoming the
victor, chased the other out of the herd.
Several varieties of antelope and the mountain gazelle were seen
bounding over the hills. Pigs abounded in the low grounds, and
hippopotami in the lake.
Captain Speke went out in search of rhinoceros, accompanied by the
prince, with a party of beaters. In a short time he discovered a fine
male, when, stealing between the bushes, he gave him a shot which made
him trot off, till, exhausted by loss of blood, he lay down to die. The
young princes were delighted with the effect of the Englishman's gun,
and, seizing both his hands, congratulated him on his successes.
A second rhinoceros was killed after receiving two shots. While
pursuing the latter, three appeared, who no sooner sighted Speke, than
they all charged at him in line. His gun-bearers, however, were with
him, and, taking his weapons, he shot the three animals in turn. One
dropped down a little way on, but the others only pulled up when they
arrived at the bottom of the hill. The fore legs of another were
broken, when the natives set on him; but he kept charging with so much
fury that they could not venture to approach till Speke had given him a
second ball, which brought him to the ground. Every man then rushed at
the creature, sending his spear, _assegai_, or arrow into his sides
until he sank like a porcupine covered with quills. The heads were sent
to the king, to show what the white man could do. Rumanika exhibited
the greatest astonishment, declaring that something more potent than
powder had been used; for, though the Arabs talk of their shooting
powers, they could not have accomplished such a feat. "It is no
wonder," he added, "that the English are the greatest men in the world."
Rumanika, like great men in other countries, had his private band. The
instruments were of a somewhat primitive character, while the musicians
differed in appearance considerably from those of Europe. The most
common instruments are the drums, which vary greatly in size: one hung
to the shoulder is about four feet in length, and one in width. It is
played with the fingers, like the Indian _tom-tom_. The drums used at
the new-moon _levee_ are of the same shape, but very much larger. The
war drum is beaten by women. At its sound the men rush to arms, and
repair to their several quarters. There are also several stringed
instruments. One of these, which Captain Grant describes, was played by
an old woman; it had seven notes, six of which were a perfect scale.
Another, which had three strings, was played by a man: they were a full,
harmonious chord. A third instrument called "the laced _nanga_" formed
of dark wood, in the shape of a tray, had three crosses in the bottom,
and was laced with one string, seven or eight times, over bridges at
either end.
The prince sent the best player to be found to entertain his guest. The
man entered, dressed in the usual Wanyambo costume, looking a wild,
excited creature. After resting his spear against the roof of his hut,
he took a _nanga_ from under his arm and began playing, his wild yet
gentle music and words attracting a number of admirers. It was about a
favourite dog, and for days afterwards the people sang that dog song.
There is another stringed instrument, called the _zeze_, somewhat
similar to the _nanga_. They have two wind instruments, one resembling
a flageolet, and another a bugle. The latter is composed of several
pieces of gourd, fitted one into another, in telescope fashion, and is
covered with cow-skin.
Rumanika's band was composed of sixteen men, fourteen of whom had
bugles, and the other two hand-drums. On the march they form in three
ranks, the drummers being in the rear, swaying their bodies in time to
the music, while the leader advances with a curiously active step,
touching the ground alternately with each knee. They also, when the
king rested on a march, or when out hunting, played before him, while he
sat on the ground and smoked his pipe.
The Wahuma, like most Africans, have great faith in the power of charms,
and believe that by their means persons can be rendered invulnerable.
They also believe in the constant presence of departed souls, supposing
that they exercise a good or evil influence over those whom they have
known in life. When a field is blighted or a crop does not promise
well, a gourd is placed in the pathway; passengers set up a wailing cry,
which they intend as a prayer to the spirits to give a good crop to
their mourning relatives. Rumanika, in order to propitiate the spirit
of his father, was in the habit of sacrificing annually a cow on his
tomb, and also of placing offerings on it of corn and wine. These and
many other instances show that, though their minds are dark and
misguided, the people possess religious sentiments which might afford
encouragement to missionaries of the gospel.
The commencement of 1862 found the travellers still guests of the
enlightened king. Hearing that it was the English custom on Christmas
Day to have an especially good dinner, he sent an ox. Captain Speke in
return paid him a visit. He offered him the compliments of the season,
and reminded him that he was of the old stock of Abyssinians, who were
among the oldest Christians on record, and that he hoped the time would
come when white teachers would visit his country, to instruct him in the
truths which he and his people had forgotten.
News now arrived which induced them to believe that Mr Petherick was
indeed on his road up the Nile, endeavouring to reach them. Rumanika
was highly delighted to hear this, as he was especially anxious to have
white men visit his country from the north.
Active preparations were now made for the departure of the travellers,
but unhappily Captain Grant was suffering from so severe a complaint in
one of his legs, that he was compelled to remain behind, under the
protection of the hospitable sovereign, while Speke set off for Uganda.
CHAPTER SIXTEEN.
SPEKE AND GRANT'S TRAVELS CONTINUED.
AN ESCORT FROM MTESA, KING OF UGANDA, ARRIVES--THE KITANGULE RIVER--THE
PHEPO--SLAUGHTER OF THE NATIVES--UGANDA DESCRIBED--SPEKE'S RECEPTION--
MTESA'S CRUELTY--ARREST OF THE QUEEN--A REVIEW OF TROOPS--GRANT
ARRIVES--ARRANGEMENTS FOR PROCEEDING TO UNYORO--THE WATER-SPIRIT'S HIGH
PRIEST.
On the 10th of January a large escort of smartly-dressed men, women, and
boys, leading their dogs and playing their reeds, under the command of
Maula, arrived from Mtesa, King of Uganda, to conduct the travellers to
his capital. Maula informed them that the king had ordered his officers
to supply them with everything they wanted while passing through his
country, and that there would be nothing to pay.
Speke set forth, in the hopes that before long he should settle the
great Nile problem for ever. It was, however, not believed that he
would be able to proceed north from Uganda, Rumanika especially
declaring that he would be compelled to return to the southward.
Passing through a remarkably rich country, famous for its ivory and
coffee productions, they descended from the Mountains of the Moon to an
alluvial plain, where Rumanika keeps thousands of cows. Once elephants
abounded here, but, since the increase of the ivory trade, these animals
had been driven off to the distant hills.
On the 16th they reached the Kitangule River, which falls into the
Victoria Nyanza. It was about eighty yards broad and so deep that it
could not be poled by the canoe-men, while it runs at a velocity of from
three to four knots an hour. It is fed from the high-seated springs in
the Mountains of the Moon. Speke believed that the Mountains of the
Moon give birth to the Congo as well as the Nile, and also the Shire
branch of the Zambesi.
The country through which they passed was a perfect garden of
plantations, surprisingly rich, while along the banks of the river
numberless harte-beestes and antelopes were seen.
At a village, where they were compelled to stop two days, drumming,
singing, screaming, yelling, and dancing went on the whole time, during
the night as well as day, to drive the _phepo_, or devil, away. In
front of a hut sat an old man and woman, smeared with white mud, and
holding pots of _pomba_ in their laps, while people came, bringing
baskets full of plantain squash and more pots of _pomba_. Hundreds of
them were collected in the court-yard, all perfectly drunk, making the
most terrific uproar.
The king sent messengers expressing his desire to see the white man, and
they were informed that he had caused fifty big men and four hundred
small ones to be executed because he believed that his subjects were
anxious to prevent them.
Speke now sent back to Grant, earnestly urging him to come on if he
possibly could, as he had little doubt that they would be able to
proceed across the country to the northward.
On approaching the capital, a messenger came to say that the king was so
eager to meet the white man that he would not taste food until he had
seen him.
The neighbourhood was reached on the 19th of February. Speke says it
was a magnificent sight; the whole hill was covered with gigantic huts,
such as he had never before seen in Africa. He proposed going at once
to the palace; but the officers considered that such a proceeding would
be indecent, and advised him to draw up his men and fire his gun off to
let the king know that he had arrived. He was excessively indignant at
being shown the dirty huts for his accommodation, in which the Arabs put
up when they came to the place. Speke declared that, unless better
quarters were found him, he would return; but the officer entreated that
he would not be so hasty. Rain, coming on, prevented a _levee_ being
held that day. The presents being got ready, Speke marshalled his
procession: the king's officers and pages, with himself, marched on the
flanks; the Union Jack, carried by his guide, led the way, followed by
twelve of his men, as a guard of honour, dressed in red flannel cloaks,
carrying their arms sloped, with fixed bayonets, while in the their rear
came the rest of his attendants, each bearing some article as a present.
He was surprised at the extraordinary dimensions of the palace, and the
neatness with which it was kept. The whole brow and sides of the hill
were covered with gigantic grass-huts, neatly thatched and fenced all
round with the tall, yellow reeds of the tiger-grass, while, within the
enclosures, the lines of huts were joined together or partitioned off
into courts, with the walls of the same grass.
These huts formed the residence of Mtesa's three or four hundred wives,
the rest living chiefly with his mother, the queen dowager. The ladies
were seen at the doors, making their remarks and enjoying their jokes.
At each gate they passed, officers opened and shut them, jingling the
big bells hung upon them to prevent stealthy entrance.
As they advanced, courtiers of high dignity stepped forward to greet the
white man, dressed in the most scrupulously neat fashions. Men, women,
bulls, dogs, and goats were led about by strings, cocks and hens were
carried in men's arms, and little page-boys with rope turbans rushed
about conveying messages, as if their lives depended on their swiftness,
every one holding his skin cloak tightly round him, lest his naked legs
should by accident be shown, a crime which in that kingdom, if happening
in the presence of the king, meets with instant death.
These huts are well-built of reed, which grows to a great height. They
have double roofs formed of thick grass thatch, in order to exclude the
heat of the sun. The outer roof comes nearly to the ground on all
sides. The structure is supported by stout poles, on which are hung
sacks of corn, meat, and other provisions. The interior is divided into
two portions by a high screen, the inner serving as a sleeping-room, in
which a bedstead formed of cane is placed. There are no windows nor
chimneys, and only one door in front.
When Speke, however, was desired to sit down outside to wait the
appearance of the monarch, he, considering this an act of discourtesy,
refused to comply. After waiting five minutes, as the king did not
appear, he thought it right to walk home again, giving Bombay directions
to leave his present on the ground. He was followed soon afterwards by
Bombay, who told him that he might bring his own chair, as the king was
anxious to show him every respect, although no one but the monarch was
allowed in Uganda to sit on an artificial seat.
On his return, he found the king, a good-looking, well-figured, tall
young man of twenty-five, sitting on a red blanket, which formed his
throne, in the state hut. His hair was cut short, with the exception of
a ridge on the top which ran stem to stern, like a cockscomb. He wore
on his neck a large ring with beautifully-worked small beads. On one
arm was another bead ornament, and on the other a wooden charm, and on
every finger and toe he had alternately brass and copper rings, while
above the ankles, half way up to the calf, he had stockings of very
pretty beads.
In front of him were his nobles, squatting on the ground, all habited in
skins, mostly cow-skins, some few--the sign of royal blood--having
leopard-skins girded round their waists. Speke was desired to halt and
sit in the glaring sun, while he was advancing hat in hand. He donned
his hat, mounted his umbrella, and quietly sat down, to observe what was
going on. A white dog, spear, shield, and woman, the Uganda cognisance,
were by the side of the king, as also a knot of staff-officers, with
whom he kept up a brisk conversation, while he took copious draughts
from neat little gourd cups, offered by his ladies-in-waiting.