regions never before trodden by European foot. He crossed the river in
a boat, while his horse and camel swam over. Passing through a dense
forest, he observed the footprints of the rhinoceros, an animal unheard
of in the western parts of Negroland. It is greatly feared by the
inhabitants. Little further in advance he suddenly beheld through the
branches of the trees the splendid sheet of a river far larger than that
of Loggun. All was silence, the pellucid surface undisturbed by the
slightest breeze; no vestige of human or animal life, with the exception
of two hippopotami which had been basking in the sun on shore, and now
plunged into the water. This was the real Shary, the great river of the
Kotoko, which with the river Loggun forms a large basin, giving to this
part of Negroland its characteristic feature.
After some time a ferry-boat appeared, but the ferrymen declined
carrying the party over before they had informed their master. While
waiting for them, a large troop of pilgrims on their way to Mecca,
mostly from the western parts of Negroland, came up, and the doctor made
them a present of needles. The boatmen, returning, declared that the
chief of the village would not allow him to pass. He was, however, not
to be defeated, and, proceeding along the banks of the river, at length
found some ferrymen who did not hesitate to take him across. He was,
however, soon again stopped, and, after repeated attempts to push on,
was compelled to take up his residence at a place called Bakada.
Here the white ants waged relentless war against his property. Though
he had placed his bed on the top of some poles, he found that they not
only had reached the summit, but had eaten through both the coarse mats,
finished a piece of his carpet, and destroyed other articles.
The doctor had sent a messenger to the capital, but as he did not
return, he determined to set out.
He had reached Mela, on the bank of the river, when, as he was seated in
his tent, the head man of the village arrived, followed by a number of
others, and he found himself suddenly seized and his feet placed in
irons, his property being carried off. He was conveyed to an open shed,
where he was guarded by two servants of the lieutenant-governor. His
servants were also seized, but ultimately set at liberty that they might
attend on him. He was liberated, however, the next day by the arrival
of Hacik, whose friendship he had formed at Bakada, and who promised
that he should without further difficulty visit the capital.
On the 27th of April Mas-ena, the capital, appeared beyond a fine extent
of verdure. He had a good house provided for him, and numbers of people
came to visit him; among them was Faki Sambo, who was totally blind. He
had travelled much and was well versed in Arabic literature, having read
even portions of Aristotle and Plato, translated into Arabic. The
doctor had many interesting conversations with this wonderfully
well-informed man.
The lieutenant-governor, however, grew suspicious of the traveller, as
did many of the people. He had a narrow escape by being called in to
visit a sick man, when, convinced that his illness was serious, he
refused to give any medicine. The man died a few days afterwards, and
his death would, had he done as he was asked, have been attributed by
the savage people to him.
On the 6th of July the caravan from Fezzan arrived, bringing despatches
from Kukawa, sent out from England, authorising him to carry on the
objects of the expedition on a more extensive scale, while means were
placed at his disposal for doing so. It was hoped in England that he
and his companion would be able to cross the unknown region of
equatorial Africa and reach the south-east coast; but, as the state of
his health made this impossible, he was glad to find that Lord
Palmerston suggested he should endeavour to reach Timbuctoo. To this
plan, therefore, he turned his attention. He, however, found it very
difficult to leave the city. The sultan, after some time, gave him an
audience; that is to say, the doctor saw him, but the great man did not
allow himself to be seen. Earth presented his gifts, and received in
return, at his request, a supply of the manufactures of the country,
instead of a female slave and a white camel, which the sultan offered
him. He heard that the sultan entertained the fear that he might poison
or kill him by a charm, and that he had repeatedly consulted his learned
men, or councillors, how he should protect himself against his
witchcraft.
After repeated delays, on the 10th of August he was allowed to take his
departure. The sultan had set his eyes on his horse, and, just as he
was starting, sent to ask him to sell it; but this he positively
declined doing, and no attempt was made to seize the animal.
He reached Kukawa after an interesting journey, without a mishap, on the
21st of August. He found Mr Overweg very sickly. Unhappily, he
thought himself strong enough to go out shooting, and was so imprudent
as to go into deep water after water-fowl, and remain all the day
afterwards in his wet clothes. He was seized with a severe illness in
consequence, but believed that he should get better if removed to the
country home of their friend Fugo Ali. He here became much worse, and
in two days died. A grave was dug for him near the borders of the lake
in the exploration of which he had taken so much interest.
Dejected at his lonely situation, and unwilling any longer to stay in a
place which had become intolerable to him, Barth determined to set out
as soon as possible on his journey towards the Niger.
CHAPTER TWELVE.
TRAVELS OF DR. BARTH CONCLUDED.
BARTH SETS OUT FOR TIMBUCTOO--DETAINED AT KATSEENA--REACHES SAY, ON THE
NIGER--CROSSES RIVER--MEETS AN ARAB, WHO OFFERS TO ESCORT HIM--DISGUISED
AS AN ARAB--ENTERS BAMBARRA--SWAMPY COUNTRY--EMBARKS ON THE NIGER--
VOYAGE UP THE RIVER TO KABARA--RICE TO TIMBUCTOO--ENTERS THE CITY--THE
SHEIKH EL BAKAY--COMPELLED TO REMAIN IN HIS HOUSE--TIMBUCTOO DESCRIBED--
THE FANATICS THREATEN HIS LIFE--ACCOMPANIES THE SHEIKH INTO THE DESERT--
RETURNS TO THE CITY--HEARS ABOUT MUNGO PARK--THE RIVER RISES--FOR FEAR
OF DISTURBANCES FROM THE FANATICS, GOES INTO THE DESERT AGAIN--SETS OUT
WITH THE SHEIKH TOWARDS KOUKA--LIONS AND HIPPOPOTAMI--REACHES SACKATOO--
HEARS OF EXPEDITION UNDER DR. VOGEL--DANGERS OF JOURNEY--REACHES BUNDI--
MEETS DR. VOGEL--REPAST, BUT NO WINE--WELL RECEIVED BY SHEIKH OMAR AT
KOUKA--DETAINED FOUR MONTHS--RETURNS WITH A CARAVAN TO TRIPOLI--
DISCOVERY OF BINUE RIVER MOST IMPORTANT RESULT OF JOURNEY.
On the 25th of November, 1852, all arrangements being made, Dr Barth
set out on his venturesome expedition to Timbuctoo, intending to proceed
first to the town of Say, on the banks of the Niger. He had parted on
friendly terms with the sheikh, who sent him two fine camels as a
present. He had as head servant his faithful Gatroni, who had gone to
Fezzan and had lately returned, five other freemen, and two slaves,
besides another personage, who acted as his broker, well accustomed to
travel in Negroland; but, being an Arab, the doctor only put confidence
in him as long as circumstances were propitious.
He encamped, as was his custom on commencing a journey, only two miles
from the city. It was the coldest night he had experienced in
Negroland, the thermometer being only nine degrees above the
freezing-point.
On the 25th of December he arrived at Zinder, the frontier town of
Bornou, built round and about masses of rock, which rose out of the
ground, the picturesqueness of the place being increased by groups of
date-palms. Water, which collects at short depths below the surface,
fertilises a number of tobacco-fields, and gives to the vegetation
around a very rich character.
On the 5th of February, 1853, the party entered the town of Katseena,
where he laid in a supply of articles. Here they were detained for a
considerable time, as an expedition was setting out against the Fulbe,
and it would have been dangerous to proceed until it was known what
direction the hostile army would take. By the 25th of March, however,
he was ready to continue his journey, the governor himself having
arranged to accompany him for some days, as the whole country was
exposed to imminent danger, and, further on, a numerous escort was to
attend them.
Interesting as his journey was, it is impossible to describe the various
places he visited or the adventures he met with. Day after day he
travelled on, sometimes detained for weeks and months together, at one
town or another, though he was never idle, always employing himself in
gaining information, or in studying the language of the district through
which he was to pass.
On the 19th of June he was close to the Niger, and hoped that the next
day he might behold with his own eyes that great river of Western Africa
which has caused such immense curiosity in Europe, and the upper part of
the large eastern branch of which he had himself discovered. Elated
with such feelings, he set out early the next morning, and, after a
march of two hours through a rocky wilderness covered with dense bushes,
he obtained the first sight of the river, and in another hour reached
the place of embarkation, opposite the town of Say. Here he beheld, in
a noble, unbroken stream, the mighty Niger gliding along in a
north-north-east and south-south-west direction, though at this spot,
owing to being hemmed in by rocky banks, only about seven hundred yards
broad. It had been seen by Mungo Park flowing eastward, and it was
therefore, till the Landers descended it, supposed that it might
possibly make its way into some vast lake in Central Africa. On the
flatter shore opposite, a large town lay spread out, the low ramparts
and huts of which were picturesquely overtopped by numbers of slender
dum-palms.
After waiting some time the boats he had sent for, which were about
forty feet in length and four to five in width, arrived. They were
formed by hollowing out two trunks of trees, which were sewn together in
the centre. His camels, horses, people, and luggage having crossed in
safety, he followed in the afternoon, intending to survey the course of
the river between the point where it has become well-known by the
labours of Mungo Park, Caillie, and the Landers.
The language spoken here, the Songhay, differs materially from that with
which he was acquainted, and he therefore was less able to converse with
the people than he had been before.
Quitting Say, he left the Niger behind him, or rather on his right-hand
side, proceeding north-west towards Timbuctoo. The country on this side
of the Niger is thickly inhabited, and he passed numerous towns and
villages on his way.
At the village of Namantugu he met an Arab from the west, called
Wallati, who undertook to escort him safely to the town of Timbuctoo.
He was a handsome fellow. His dress consisted of a long black gown,
with a black shawl wound round his head, and he moved along at a solemn
pace; he reminded the doctor of the servants of the Inquisition.
The inhabitants of this place were clothed in the purest white, even the
little children wearing round their heads turbans composed of strips of
white cotton.
They had now entered a region full of water, the soil presenting very
little inclination to afford it the means of flowing off.
He was detained some time in the populous town of Dore, and on the 21st
of July set out on the most dangerous stage of his journey to Timbuctoo.
Many large sheets of water had to be crossed, and occasionally swamps,
which greatly impeded their progress. It was the rainy season, and he
was thus at times unable to proceed.
As he had now to traverse the province of Dellah, which is ruled by a
governor subject to the fanatical chief of Mas-ena, who would never
allow a Christian to visit his territory, the doctor was obliged to
assume the character of an Arab.
At the town of Bambarra, situated among the creeks and back-waters of
the Niger, he met an Arab native of Tisit, who had made the pilgrimage
to Mecca. The stranger cross-questioned him very narrowly about the
place from which he came, and the doctor had reason to fear he should be
discovered. However, the man's whole appearance inspired him with such
confidence that he felt sure that he might be trusted.
On the 27th of August the doctor set out on his last journey by land, in
order to reach Sarawano, the place where he was to embark on the river.
It is only during the rainy season that there is communication by water
to Timbuctoo, which lies directly north from this place.
He here engaged a boat with two cabins of matting, one in the prow and
the other in the stern. She was built of planks sewn together in a very
bungling manner.
A labyrinth of creeks, back-waters, and channels spreads over the whole
of this country, affording water-communication in all directions.
On the 1st of September the voyage commenced, and the doctor naturally
felt in high spirits when he found himself floating on the river which
was to carry him all, the way to the harbour of Timbuctoo. The water
was greatly obstructed by long grass, which made rowing impossible, and
the boat was therefore impelled by poles, generally moving at the rate
of between two and three miles an hour. At night, a storm threatening,
the boat was moored in a wide grassy creek; but the numerous swarms of
mosquitoes molested them greatly during the night. The barking sounds
of some animals were heard, which the doctor found proceeded from young
crocodiles.
On the 2nd of September the boatmen made use of their oars, sometimes
passing broad open spaces, and again getting into narrow channels.
Barth and his attendants were tolerably well supplied with fish, which
they either purchased or which were caught by the boatmen with a
harpoon.
They at last entered a large confluent of the Niger, and glided
pleasantly along, a short distance from the northern bank, which was
thickly clothed with trees, till at length, darkness approaching, they
crossed, fully a thousand yards, to the opposite bank, where the vessel
was moored near a village. Most of the party slept on shore, but others
made themselves comfortable in the boat and on the top of the matting
which formed the cabins.
The next day, they entered the mighty stream, along which they
proceeded, here running from the west to the east. It was at this spot
about a mile across, and its magnitude and solemn magnificence, as the
new-moon rose before them, with with the summer lightning at times
breaking through the evening sky, inspired his servants with awe and
alarm, while he stood on the roof, looking out for the city, the great
object of his journey.
Leaving the Niger and passing along a series of channels, the doctor
landed at the village of Kabara on the 5th of September. Here he took
up his quarters in a comfortable house while he despatched messengers to
the city. On their return, accompanied by the brother of the Sheikh El
Bakay, Sidi Alawate (who turned out a great rogue and cheated him in
every way), with several followers, on the 7th of September his
cavalcade set out for Timbuctoo.
The short distance was soon traversed, the doctor riding on ahead to
avoid the questions of those who met the party, as, had they felt the
slightest suspicion with regard to his character, they might have
prevented his entering the town, and thus endangered his life.
Unfortunately he encountered a man who addressed him in Turkish, a
language he had almost forgotten, and he had some difficulty in making a
reply.
Traversing the rubbish accumulated round the clay walls of the city, and
leaving on one side a row of dirty reed huts which encompassed the
place, he entered some narrow streets and lanes which scarcely allowed
two horses to proceed abreast. He was not a little surprised at the
populous and wealthy character which this quarter of the town exhibited,
many of the houses rising to the height of two stories, their _facades_
evincing even an attempt at architecture and adornment.
On passing the house of the Sheikh El Bakay, he was desired to fire a
pistol to do him honour, but, as his arms were loaded with ball, he
declined doing this, and soon reached the house destined for his
residence, thankful to find himself safely in his new quarters.
Timbuctoo has never been the real capital of a negro empire, but, on
account of its becoming the seat of Mahommedan learning and worship, it
enjoyed greater respect than Gogo, which was the real capital; and, on
account of its greater proximity to Morocco, the little commerce which
remained in that distracted region was here concentrated. It has,
however, undergone many changes during the fearful convulsions which
constantly occur in that region.
During the absence of the sheikh the doctor found it prudent to remain
within the walls of his house, though he received visits from numerous
people. From the flat roof of his house he was, however, able to enjoy
air and exercise, and at the same time obtained a view of what was going
on in the city. For some time he suffered severely from fever, while
rain and thunder-storms occurred nearly _every_ day.
He here heard much about Major Laing, who, after being almost killed by
the Tawarek, was kindly received in the camp of the sheikh's father. He
tried to obtain the major's papers, but found that they had all been
destroyed. He was much pleased with the Sheikh El Bakay, who treated
him with real kindness, and regretted that he could not keep his
troublesome brother Alawate in order. On one occasion he made the
doctor fire off his six-barrelled pistol, in front of his house, before
a numerous assemblage of people. This excited great astonishment, and
exercised much influence upon his future safety, as it made the people
believe that he had arms all over his person, and could fire as many
times as he liked.
The city of Timbuctoo is about three miles in circumference. The town
is laid out partly in rectangular, partly in winding streets, covered
with hard sand and gravel. Besides two market-places there are few open
areas. There are about nine hundred and eighty clay houses, and a
couple of hundred conical huts, of matting mostly, on the outskirts.
Three large mosques and three smaller ones are the only places of
worship, there being no other public buildings of any size. It is
divided into quarters, one of which is especially inhabited by
Mahommedans, though the larger number of the people profess to have
faith in the Prophet. There are about thirteen thousand settled
inhabitants, and, during the time of the greatest traffic, from five to
ten thousand people visit the city.
A fanatical party, hearing that a Christian had come to the place, made
various attempts to destroy him. By the advice of his kind protector,
the sheikh, he determined to leave the city with him, and take up his
residence in the desert. As he rode forth on his white mare, the
natives thronged the streets in order to get a glance at the Christian
stranger. He was thankful to find himself once more in the fresh air of
the desert. Here he passed several days in the most quiet and retired
manner, much recovering his health.
He then paid another visit to Timbuctoo, and was able to explore the
city and the great mosque, Jingere-Ber, which made a great impression on
his mind by its stately appearance. He had again, however, to return to
the camp of El Bakay, where the perils of his position kept increasing,
and he in vain urged his dilatory protector to enable him to make his
escape. His enemies were legion--fresh parties arriving constantly to
seize him, dead or alive. A band of them actually made a descent on the
camp, but were driven back by the bold front his friends exhibited.
He had an interesting visit from an Arab chief, who was acquainted with
Mungo Park, and gave him a full account of the way in which he had been
attacked by the Tawarek as he descended the great river in his boat.
On the 12th of December Barth heard that Ali, a fanatical chief of the
Berabish, had arrived with a large body of followers, to take his life.
Suddenly, however, Ali fell ill and died, and the people believed that
it was a judgment on him, as his father had killed Major Laing, whose
son it was supposed the doctor was. Many of the Berabish, indeed, came
to El Bakay to beg his pardon and to obtain his blessing, saying that
they would no longer impede the stranger's departure.
The river had gradually been rising, and on the 25th of December the
water entered the wells situated to the south of the town.
On the 4th of January, 1854, the first boat from Kabara reached
Timbuctoo, and other boats arriving laden with corn, the supply shortly
became plentiful and cheap.
The inundation attained its greatest height towards the end of January,
an event possessing almost the same importance as that of the rising of
the Nile.
The city depends entirely upon commerce, the only manufactures being
confined to the art of the blacksmith and a little leather-work.
Another year, 1854, of the persevering traveller's stay in Negroland,
began with the fervent prayer that he might return home before the end
of it. His hopes were raised that he might soon be able to set off.
Numberless disappointments, however, occurred.
On the 17th of March, by the advice of his friends, he returned to the
camp, such a step being deemed essential for the security of the town
and their own personal interests. He was here kept till the 19th of
April, and even then his friend the Sheikh El Bakay, could not overcome
his habitual custom of taking matters easy, and the sun was already high
in the sky and very hot before the camels were loaded and the caravan
began to move.
In consequence of the progress the French were making in Algiers at this
time, much suspicion was attached to the doctor, as the people could not
but think that his journey to the country had some connection with them.
Even after this he was detained till the 17th of May, at an encampment
amidst swamps, when at last the news arrived that the sheikh, who had
left them, had gone on ahead, and all was joy and excitement.
On overtaking the sheikh, who, as he awoke from his slumbers, received
the doctor with a gentle smile, despatches were delivered to him from
England. One from Lord John Russell expressed the warmest interest in
his proceedings, and others informed him that Dr Vogel, with two
sergeants, had set out to join him, and that he would probably meet them
in Bornou. He was much surprised that he received no news from his
friend the vizier, as the parcel had evidently come by way of Bornou--
little aware, at the time, of the murder of that friendly officer.
The following day they passed through a dense forest, said to be
frequented by lions. Keeping along the course of the river, which was
here very shallow, crocodiles were seen in abundance, and anxiety was
felt for the horses, which were pasturing on the fine rank grass at its
borders.
Owing to the dilatory character of his friend the sheikh, the progress
was very slow, but he was thus enabled to enter into conversation with
the natives, and obtained much information.
On his way he visited Gogo, situated at the southern limits of the Great
Desert, one portion on the banks of the river, and another on an island,
that to the east having been inhabited by the Mahommedans, the other by
idolators. He found the place, however, in a most ruinous condition,
even the mosque itself being in a dilapidated state. Indeed, the once
great city of Negroland now consists only of from three to four hundred
huts, grouped in separate clusters and surrounded by heaps of rubbish,
which indicated its former site. Here it is believed that Mungo Park
was buried.
While encamped at a place called Borno, close to the banks of the river,
a number of hippopotami made their appearance, snorting fiercely at
being disturbed, and put their horses to flight. At times they
interrupted the intercourse between the banks, and in the evening became
still more noisy, when they wanted to come out for their usual feed.
He was fortunate in having so able a protector as the Sheikh El Bakay,
who, in consequence of his supposed sacred character, was treated with
honour whenever he went.
After visiting a number of places, both on the banks and eastward of it,
he reached, on the 24th of August, Sackotoo. Here he received
intelligence of the arrival of five Christians, with a train of forty
camels, at Kukawa, and had little doubt that it was the expedition under
Dr Vogel.