The capital of that province was reached on the 12th of Febr

Produced by Nick Hodson of London, England

Great African Travellers, from Mungo Park to Livingstone and Stanley, by

W.H.G. Kingston.

________________________________________________________________________

At the beginning of the nineteenth century, the coastal parts of Africa

were of course well-known, and in any of the territories round the

coasts there were European officials, such as consuls, and European

traders. This becomes very apparent as you read this book, as many of

the travels described involve sorties from an existing European base.

On the other hand the very sources of the various major rivers were not

on the map, and the object of many of the travellers was to find these

sources, for instance that of the Nile, or rather, that of any one of

its major components, such as the Red Nile and the Blue Nile.

On the whole the various regions they passed through had already a

settled African regime. In most cases this regime was friendly, but in

some cases the opposite was the case. These explorations and travels

could only take place if the native rulers could be brought to give

assistance, and in most cases this was forthcoming. On the other hand

some of the lesser-known early travellers were murdered, and the goods

they travelled with, stolen. It is really only those travellers who

were able to complete their self-imposed tasks, and return to Britain,

that have become famous.

Written in an easy style, this book is a good read, and very worth the

while of even today's teenagers. There are too many names to make an

audiobook very easily, so we have not done so, and have no comments on

that.

________________________________________________________________________

GREAT AFRICAN TRAVELLERS, FROM MUNGO PARK TO LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY, BY

W.H.G. KINGSTON.

FROM MUNGO PARK TO LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY.

CHAPTER ONE.

INTRODUCTORY.

INTRODUCTION--THE AFRICAN ASSOCIATION--LEDYARD--LUCAS--FIRST INFORMATION

RESPECTING THE NIGER, OR QUORRA, AND THE GAMBIA--TIMBUCTOO HEARD OF--

THOMPSON AND JOBSON'S VOYAGE UP THE GAMBIA--MAJOR HAUGHTON'S EXPEDITION

AND DEATH.

When the fathers of the present generation were young men, and George

the Third ruled the land, they imagined that the whole interior of

Africa was one howling wilderness of burning sand, roamed over by brown

tribes in the north and south, and by black tribes--if human beings

there were--on either side of the equator, and along the west coast.

The maps then existing afforded them no information. Of the Mountains

of the Moon they knew about as much as of the mountains in the moon.

The Nile was not explored--its sources unknown--the course of the Niger

was a mystery. They were aware that the elephant, rhinoceros,

cameleopard, zebra, lion and many other strange beasts ranged over its

sandy deserts; but very little more about them than the fact of their

existence was known. They knew that on the north coast dwelt the

descendants of the Greek and Roman colonists, and of their Arab

conquerors--that there were such places as Tangiers, Tripoli, Tunis,

Algiers with its piratical cruisers who carried off white men into

slavery; Morocco, with an emperor addicted to cutting off heads; Salee,

which sent forth its rovers far over the ocean to plunder merchantmen;

and a few other towns and forts, for the possession of which Europeans

had occasionally knocked their heads together.

From the west coast they had heard that ivory and gold-dust was to be

procured, as well as an abundant supply of negroes, whose happy lot it

was to be carried off to cultivate the plantations of the West Indies

and America; but, except that they worshipped fetishes, of their manners

and customs, or at what distance from the coast they came, their

ignorance was profound. They possibly were acquainted with the fact

that the Portuguese had settlements at Loango, Angola, and Benguela; and

that Hottentots and Kaffirs were to be found at the Cape, where a colony

had been taken from the Dutch, but with that colony, except in the

immediate neighbourhood of Cape Town, where ships to and from India

touched, they were but slightly acquainted.

Eastward, if they troubled their heads about the matter, they had a

notion that there was a terribly wild coast, inhabited by fierce

savages, and northward, inside the big island of Madagascar, that the

Portuguese had some settlements for slaving purposes; that further north

again was Zanzibar, and that the mainland was without a town or spot

where civilised man was to be found, till the Strait of Bab el Mandeb,

at the mouth of the Red Sea, was reached. That there, towards the

interior, was the wonderful country of Abyssinia, in which the Queen of

Sheba once ruled, and Nubia, the birthplace from time immemorial of

black slaves, and that, flowing northward, the mysterious Nile made its

way down numerous cataracts, fertilising the land of Egypt on its annual

overflows, till, passing the great city of Cairo, it entered the

Mediterranean by its numberless mouths.

About Egypt, to be sure, more was known than of all the rest of the

continent together--that there were pyramids and ruined cities, colossal

statues, temples and tombs, crocodiles and hippopotami in the waters of

the sacred river, and Christian Copts and dark-skinned Mahommedans

dwelling on its banks. But few had explored the mighty remains of its

past glory, or made their way either to the summits or into the

interiors of its mountain-like edifices.

Those who had read Herodotus believed in a good many wonders which that

not incredulous historian narrates. The late discoveries of

Livingstone, however, prove that Herodotus had obtained a more correct

account of the sources of the Nile than has hitherto been supposed.

Indeed, free range was allowed to the wildest imagination, and the most

extravagant stories found ready believers, there being no one with

authority to contradict them.

When, however, Bruce and other travellers made their way further than

any civilised man had before penetrated into the interior of the

continent, their accounts were discredited, and people were disappointed

when they were told that many of their cherished notions had no

foundation in truth; in fact, up to the commencement of the present

century the greater part of Africa was a _terra incognita_, and only by

slow and painful degrees, and during a comparatively late period, has a

knowledge of some of its more important geographical features been

obtained.

We will now set forth and accompany in succession the most noted of the

various travellers who, pushing their way into that long unknown

interior, bravely encountering its savage and treacherous tribes, its

fever-giving climate, famine, hardships, dangers and difficulties of

every description, have contributed to fill up some of the numerous

blank places on the map. Although, by their showing, sand enough and to

spare and vast rocky deserts are to be found, there are wide districts

of the greatest fertility, possessed of many natural beauties--elevated

and cool regions, where even the European can retain his health and

strength and enjoy existence; lofty mountains, magnificent rivers and

broad lakes, and many curious and interesting objects, not more

wonderful, however, than those of other parts of the globe, while the

inhabitants in _every_ direction, though often savage and debased,

differ in no material degree from the other descendants of Ham.

Although our fathers knew very little about Africa, their interest had

been excited by the wonders it was supposed to contain, and they were

anxious to obtain all possible information respecting it. This was,

however, no easy matter, as most of the travellers who endeavoured to

make their way into the interior had died in the attempt.

A society called the African Association, to which the Marquis of

Hastings and Sir John Banks belonged, was at length formed to open up

the mighty continent to British commerce and civilisation.

The first explorer they despatched was Ledyard, who as a sergeant of

marines had sailed round the world with Captain Cook, and after living

among the American Indians had pushed his way to the remotest parts of

Asiatic Russia. If any man could succeed, it was thought he would.

He proceeded to Egypt, intending to make his way to Sennaar, and thence

to traverse the entire breadth of the African continent; but, seized

with an illness at Cairo, he died just as he was about to start with a

caravan.

The next traveller engaged by the society was Mr Lucas, who, having

been captured by a Salee rover, had been several years a slave in

Morocco. He started from Tripoli, but was compelled by the disturbed

state of the country to the south of that place to put back.

It should have been said that it had been long known that two mighty

rivers flowed through the interior of Africa, one called the Gambia and

the other the Niger, or Quorra; but whereabouts they rose, or the

direction they took, or the nature of the country they traversed in

their course, no exact information was possessed.

From Arab traders, also, accounts had been received of a vast city,

situated near the banks of the Niger, far away across the desert, called

Timbuctoo, said to possess palaces, temples and numberless public

buildings, to be surrounded by lofty walls and glittering everywhere

with gold and precious stones, to rival the ancient cities of Mexico and

Peru in splendour and those of Asia in the amount of its population.

A century and a half before, two sea captains, Thompson and Jobson, sent

out by a company for the purpose, had made their way some distance up

the Gambia in boats, and early in the eighteenth century Captain Stibbs

had gallantly sailed up the same river to a considerable distance, but,

his native crew refusing to proceed, he was compelled to return without

having gained much information.

As a wide sandy desert intervened between the shores of the

Mediterranean and the centre of Africa, it was naturally supposed that

the unknown region could be more easily reached from the west coast than

over that barren district, and, soon after the return of Lucas, Major

Haughton, a high-spirited, gallant officer who had lived some time in

Morocco, volunteered to make his way along the bank of the Gambia

eastward, under the belief that a journey by land was more likely to

succeed than one by water. Some way up that river is the the town of

Pisania, where an English factory had been established, and a few

Europeans were settled, with a medical man, Dr Laidley. Leaving this

place, he proceeded to Tisheet, a place in the Great Desert, hoping from

thence to reach Timbuctoo; but, robbed by a Moorish chief, of everything

he possessed, he wandered alone through the desert, till, exhausted by

hunger and thirst, he sat down under a tree and died. The news of his

fate was brought to Dr Laidley soon afterwards by some negroes.

These expeditions threw no light on the interior of the continent. A

fresh volunteer, however, Mungo Park, then unknown to fame, was soon to

commence those journeys which have immortalised his name, and which

contributed so greatly to solve one of the chief African problems--the

course of the Niger.

CHAPTER TWO.

TRAVELS OF MUNGO PARK.

PARENTAGE--RETURNS FROM INDIA--SENT OUT BY THE AFRICAN ASSOCIATION--

SAILS FOR AFRICA--ARRIVES AT PISANIA--STARTS WITH A COME EASTWARD--MUMBO

JUMBO--ARRIVES AT KOOJAR--REACHES CAPITAL OF BONDOU--WELCOMED AT THE

CAPITAL OF KAARTA BY KING DAISY--SEIZED AT THE TOWN OF DALLI BY MOORISH

SOLDIERS, AND CARRIED CAPTIVE TO BENOWM--BARBAROUSLY TREATED BY ALI--

TAKEN TO VISIT ALI'S WIFE FATIMA--SHE COMPASSIONATES HIM--ALMOST

STARVED--DIFFICULTY OF OBTAINING WATER--HIS SERVANTS TAKEN FROM HIM--ALI

ATTACKED BY DAISY--PARK AGAIN FALLS INTO ALI'S HANDS--RESOLVES TO

ESCAPE.

Mungo Park, who long ranked as the chief of African travellers, was born

on the 10th of September, 1771, at Fowlshiels, a farm occupied by his

father on the banks of the Yarrow, not far from the town of Selkirk, in

Scotland.

The elder Mr Park, also called Mungo, was a substantial yeoman of

Ettrick Forest, and was distinguished for his unremitting attention to

the education of his children, the greater number of whom he saw

respectably settled in life. The young Mungo, after receiving with his

brothers a course of education at home under a private tutor, was sent

to the Grammar School at Selkirk, and at the age of fifteen was

apprenticed to Mr Thomas Anderson, a surgeon of that town. Hence he

removed to the University of Edinburgh, and during his vacations made a

tour with his brother-in-law, Mr Dickson, a distinguished botanist. On

going to London he was introduced by his relative to Sir Joseph Banks,

whose interest procured for him the appointment of assistant surgeon to

the "Worcester," East Indiaman. Returning from India, he offered his

services to the African Association, who, notwithstanding the failure of

the first expeditions they had sent out, still determined to persevere

in their efforts.

Possessed of unbounded courage and perseverance, he was admirably fitted

for the task he undertook, and his offer was gladly accepted.

Having received his final instructions from the African Association, he

sailed from Portsmouth on the 22nd of May, 1795, on board the

"Endeavour," an African trader bound for the Gambia, where he arrived on

the 21st of the following month.

His directions were to make his way to the Niger, by Bambook or any

other route, to ascertain the course of that river, and to visit the

principal towns in its neighbourhood, particularly Timbuctoo and Houssa,

and afterwards to return by way of the Gambia or any other route he

might deem advisable.

Houssa is not a city, as was then supposed, but a kingdom or province.

The vessel anchored on the 21st of June at Jillifree, where he landed

and from thence proceeded up the Gambia to Pisania. The only white

residents were Dr Laidley and two merchants of the name of Ainsley,

with their numerous black domestics. It is in the dominions of the King

of Yany, who afforded them protection.

Assisted by Dr Laidley, Park here set to work to learn the Mandingo

tongue, and to collect information from certain black traders called

Seedees. During his residence at Pisania he was confined for two months

by a severe fever, from which he recovered under the constant care of

his host.

A coffle, or caravan, being about to start for the interior of Africa,

Park, having purchased a hardy and spirited horse and two asses,

arranged to accompany it. He obtained also the services of Johnson, a

negro who spoke both English and Mandingo. Dr Laidley also provided

him with a negro boy named Demba, a sprightly youth who spoke, besides

Mandingo, the language of a large tribe in the interior. His baggage

consisted only of a small stock of provisions, beads, amber and tobacco,

for the purchase of food on the road; a few changes of linen, an

umbrella, pocket compass, magnetic compass and thermometer, with a

fowling-piece, two pair of pistols and other small articles. Four

Mahommedan blacks also offered their services as his attendants. They

were going to travel on foot, driving their horses before them. These

six attendants regarded him with great respect, and were taught to

consider that their safe return to the countries of the Gambia would

depend on his preservation.

Dr Laidley and the Mr Ainsleys accompanied him for the two first days,

secretly believing that they should never see him again.

Taxes are demanded from travellers at every town, by the chiefs.

Madina was the first town of any size he reached. He was here received

by King Jatta, a venerable old man, who had treated Major Haughton with

great kindness. He was seated on a mat before his hut, a number of men

and women ranged on either side, who were singing and clapping their

hands. Park, saluting him respectfully, informed him of the purport of

his visit. The king replied that he not only gave him leave to pass,

but would offer up his prayers for his safety. He warned him, however,

of the dangers he would encounter, observing that the people in the east

differed greatly from those of his country, who were acquainted with

white men and respected them.

The king having provided a guide, Park took his departure, reaching

Konjowar the next night. Here, having purchased a sheep, he found

Johnson and one of his negroes quarrelling about the horns. It appeals

that these horns are highly valued as being easily converted into

sheaths for keeping secure certain charms, called _saphies_. These

_saphies_ are sentences from the Koran, which the Mahommedan priests

write on scraps of paper and sell to the natives, who believe that they

possess extraordinary virtues. They indeed consider the art of writing

as bordering on magic; and it is not in the doctrines of the Prophet,

but in the arts of the magician that their confidence is placed.

On the 8th, entering Koloa, a considerable town, he observed hanging on

a tree a masquerading habit, made of bark, which he was told belonged to

Mumbo Jumbo, a sort of wood demon, held greatly in awe, especially by

the female part of the community. This strange bugbear is common to all

the Mandingo towns, and much employed by the pagan negroes in keeping

their women in subjection. As the Kaffirs, or pagan Africans, are not

restricted in the number of their wives, every one marries as many as he

can conveniently maintain; and it frequently happens that the ladies

disagree among themselves, their quarrels sometimes reaching to such a

height that the authority of the husband can no longer preserve peace in

his household,--in such cases the interposition of Mumbo Jumbo is called

in and is always decisive. This strange minister of justice, who is

supposed to be either the husband or some person instructed by him,

disguised in the dress which has just been mentioned, and armed with the

rod of public authority, announces his coming by loud and dismal screams

in the woods near the town.

He begins the pantomime at the approach of night, and as soon as it is

dark he enters the town and proceeds to the _bentang_, or public

meeting-house, at which all the inhabitants immediately assemble. The

women do not especially relish this exhibition; for, as the person in

disguise is entirely unknown to them, every married female suspects that

the visit may possibly be intended for her; but they dare not refuse to

appear when summoned.

The ceremony commences with songs and dances, which continue till

midnight, about which time Mumbo fixes on the offender. The unfortunate

victim being thereupon immediately seized, is stripped naked, tied to a

post, and receives a severe switching with Mumbo's rod, amidst the

derisive shouts of the whole assembly, the rest of the women being the

loudest in their exclamations against their unhappy sister. Daylight

puts an end to the unmanly revel.

The desert was now to be passed, in which no water was to be procured.

The caravan therefore travelled rapidly till they arrived at Koojar, the

frontier town of Woolli, on the road to Bondou, from which it is

separated by another intervening wilderness of two days' journey.

While crossing the desert, they came to a tree, adorned with scraps of

cloth, probably at first hung up to inform other travellers that water

was to be found near it; but the custom has been so sanctioned by time

that nobody presumes to pass without hanging up something. Park

followed the example and suspended a handsome piece of cloth on one of

the boughs. Finding, however, a fire, which the negroes thought had

been made by banditti, they pushed on to another watering-place, where,

surrounded by their cattle, they lay down on the bare ground, out of

gun-shot from the nearest bush, the negroes agreeing to keep watch by

turns, to prevent surprise.

They soon after reached Koorkarany, a Mahommedan town, which contained a

mosque, and was surrounded by a high wall. The _maraboo_, or priest, a

black, showed Park a number of Arabic manuscripts, passages from which

he read and explained in Mandingo.

Moving on at noon of the 21st of December, the traveller...

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This page and the previous page are missing.

His fellow-travellers considered it necessary to journey by night till

they could reach a more hospitable part of the country. They

accordingly started as soon as the people in the village had gone to

sleep. The stillness of the air, the howling of the wild beasts and the

deep solitude of the forest made the scene solemn and impressive. Not a

word, except in a whisper, was uttered; and his companions pointed out

to him the wolves and hyaenas, as they glided like shadows from one

thicket to another.

The inhabitants of Bondou are called Foulahs. They are naturally of a

mild and gentle disposition; but the uncharitable maxims of the Koran

have made them less hospitable to strangers and more reserved in their

behaviour than the Mandingoes.

Leaving Bondou, the caravan entered the kingdom of Kajaaga. The

inhabitants, whose complexion is jet-black, are called Serrawoollies.

The _dooty_, or chief man of Joag, the frontier town, though a rigid

Mahommedan, treated Park very civilly; but while he was staying there a

party of horseman, sent by the king, arrived to conduct him to Maana,

his residence. When there, the king demanded enormous duties, and Park

had to pay him the five drachms of gold which he had received from the

King of Bondou, besides which his baggage was opened and everything of

value taken. His companions now begged him to turn back, and Johnson

declared it would be impossible to proceed without money. He had

fortunately concealed some of his property; but they were afraid of

purchasing provisions, lest the king should rob him of his few remaining

effects. They therefore resolved to combat hunger during the day and

wait for another opportunity of obtaining food.

While seated on the ground, with his servant-boy by his side, a poor

woman came up with a basket on her head, and asked Park if he had had

his dinner. The boy replied that the king's people had robbed him of

all his money. On hearing this the good old woman, with a look of

unaffected benevolence, took the basket from her head, and presented him

with a few handfuls of ground nuts, walking away before he had time to

thank her.

Leaving Joag in company with thirty persons and six loaded asses, he

rode on cheerfully for some hours till the caravan reached a species of

tree for which Johnson had frequently inquired. On seeing it he

produced a white chicken which he had purchased at Joag, tied it by a

leg to one of the branches, and then told his companions that they might

safely proceed, as the journey would be prosperous.

This incident shows the power of superstition over the minds of negroes;

for though this man had resided seven years in England, it was evident

that he still retained the superstitions imbibed in his youth.

Koomakary was the birthplace of one of Park's companions from Pisania, a

blacksmith, who had been attentive to him on the road. On approaching

the place shouts were raised and muskets were fired. The meeting

between the long-absent blacksmith and his relations was very tender.

The younger ones having embraced him, his aged mother was led forth,

leaning upon a staff. Every one made way for her as she stretched out

her hands to bid her son welcome. Being totally blind, she stroked his

arms, hands and face with great care, and seemed highly delighted that

her ears once more could hear the music of his voice. "It was evident,"

observes Park, "that, whatever may be the difference between the negro

and European, there is none in the genuine sympathies and characteristic

feelings of our common nature."

The king, Dembo Sego, gave the traveller an audience, and appeared

well-disposed towards him. An escort was also sent to conduct him to

the frontiers of Kaarta.

The capital of that province was reached on the 12th of February, and as

soon as he arrived a messenger came from the king, bidding him welcome,

and a large hut was at once provided for his accommodation. The people,

however crowded in till it was completely full; when the first visitors

went, another took their place--in this way the hut being filled and

emptied thirteen different times.

Park found the king, whose name was Daisy, surrounded by a number of

attendants, the fighting men on his right-hand and the women and

children on his left. A bank of earth, on which was spread a

leopard-skin, formed the throne. Daisy seemed perfectly satisfied with

the account the traveller gave of himself, but warned him of the dangers

in his way on account of the war which was then raging, and advised him

to return to Kason, there to remain till it was over. Wise as this

advice was, the approaching hot months made it important for him to

proceed, dreading as he did having to spend the rainy season in the

interior of Africa.

Daisy presented him with food, and sent a party of horse men to conduct

him to Jarra, while three of his sons, with about two hundred horsemen,

undertook to accompany him part of the way.

He had evidence of the disturbed state of the country while staying at

the next town he entered. A body of Moors approached the gates and

carried off the cattle, and one of the horsemen was shot by a Moor. The

wounded man was brought in, when, as he was borne along, his mother went

before, clapping her hands and enumerating the good qualities of her

son. The ball had passed through both his legs, and as he and his

friends would not consent to have one of them amputated, he died the

same night.

Going forward, on the 18th they passed through Simbug, the frontier

village of Ludamar. It was from hence Major Haughton wrote his last

letter, with a pencil, to Dr Laidley. After leaving the place, when

endeavouring to make his way across the desert, he was murdered by some

savage Mahommedans, who robbed him of everything he possessed.

At this time, while Daisy was employed in fortifying a strong position

among the hills, his territory was overrun by his enemy, Mansong.

On the evening of the 5th of March Park reached the town of Dalli. Here

the people crowded in so disagreeable a manner to see the white

stranger, that his host proposed, in order to avoid them, going in the

cool of the evening to a negro village called Samee, at a short distance

off.

As he was now within two days' journey of the heathen kingdom of Goumba,

he had no apprehensions from the Moors, and readily accepted the

invitation. His landlord was proud of the honour of entertaining a

white man, and Park spent the forenoon very pleasantly with these poor

negroes, their gentleness of manner presenting a striking contrast to

the rudeness and barbarity of the Moors.

While thus enjoying himself, greatly to his dismay a party of Moorish

soldiers suddenly appeared in the place. They were sent, they said, by

their chief, Ali, to convey the white stranger to his camp at Benowm.

If he would come willingly it would be better for him, but come he must,

as they had orders to convey him by force; because Fatima, Ali's wife,

having heard much about Christians, was anxious to see one. Park,

unable to resist, was compelled to accompany them. The journey occupied

many days, during which both Park and his attendants suffered much from

thirst.

On the evening of the 12th they came in sight of Benowm, which presented

to the eye a number of dirty-looking tents scattered without order over

a large space of ground. Among the tents appeared large herds of

camels, cattle and goats. As soon as he was seen the people who were

drawing water threw down their buckets and, rushing towards him, began

to treat him with the greatest discourtesy; one pulled at his clothes,

another took off his hat, while a third stopped him to examine his

waistcoat buttons.

At length the king's tent was reached, where a number of men and women

were assembled. Ali was seated on a black leather cushion, clipping a

few hairs from his upper lip, a female attendant holding up a

looking-glass before him.

He enquired whether the stranger could speak Arabic, and being answered

in the negative he remained silent. The ladies, however, asked a

thousand questions, inspected his apparel, searched his pockets, and

obliged him to unbutton his waistcoat to display the whiteness of his

skin.

In the evening the priests announced prayer. Before they departed his

Moorish guide told him that Ali was about to present him with something

to eat. On looking round he saw some boys bringing a wild hog, which

they tied to one of the tent ropes, when Ali made signs to him to kill

and dress it for supper. Though very hungry, he did not think it

prudent to eat any part of an animal so much detested by the Moors, and

therefore replied that he never touched such food. The hog was then

untied, in the hopes that it would run at the stranger, the Moors

believing that a great enmity subsists between hogs and Christians. In

this, however, they were disappointed, for the animal no sooner regained

his liberty than he began to attack indiscriminately every person who

came in his way, and at last took shelter under the couch upon which the

king was sitting.

Park was after this conducted to a hut, where he found another wild

hog--tied there to a stick for the purpose of annoying him. It

attracted a number of boys, who amused themselves by beating it with

sticks, till they so irritated the animal that it ran and bit at every

person within reach.

A number of people came in and made him take off his stockings to

exhibit his feet, and then his jacket and waistcoat to show them how his

clothes were put off and on.

Day after day he was treated in the same manner. He was also compelled

to undertake various offices. First, he was told to shave the head of

one of the young princes, but, unaccustomed to use a razor, he soon cut

the boy's skin, on seeing which the king ordered him to desist.

On the 18th his black servant, Johnson, was brought in as as a prisoner

before Ali by some Moors, who had also seized a bundle of his clothes

left at Jarra. Of these Ali took possession, and Park was unable to

obtain even a clean shirt or anything he required. The Moors next

stripped him of his gold, his watch, the amber he had remaining and one

of his pocket compasses. Fortunately he had hidden the other in the

sand near his hut. This, with the clothes on his back, was the only

thing Ali now left him.

Ali, on examining the compass, wished to know why the small needle

always pointed to the Great Desert. Park, unwilling to inform him of

the exact truth, replied that his mother lived far beyond the sands of

the Sahara, and that while she was alive the piece of iron would always

point that way and serve as a guide to conduct him to her. Ali,

suspecting that there was something magical in it, was afraid of keeping

so dangerous an instrument in his possession.

The Moors now held a council to determine what should be done with the

stranger. Some proposed that he should be put to death, others that he

should only lose his right-hand, and one of Ali's sons came to him in

the evening and with much concern informed him that his uncle had

persuaded his father to put out his eyes. Ali, however, replied that he

would not do so until Fatima, the queen, who was at present in the

north, had seen him.

In vain Park begged that he might be permitted to return to Jarra. Ali

replied that he must wait till Fatima had seen him, and that then he

should be at liberty to go, and that his horse should be restored to

him.

So wearied out was he at last with all the insults he received that he

felt ready to commit any act of desperation.

One day Ali sent to say that he must be in readiness to ride out with

him, as he intended to show him to some of his women. They together

visited the tents of four different ladies, at every one of which he was

presented with a bowl of milk and water. They were all remarkably

corpulent, which in that country is the highest mark of beauty. They

were also very inquisitive, examining minutely his hair and skin, though

affecting to consider him as a sort of inferior being to themselves, and

pretending to shudder when they looked at the whiteness of his skin.

Notwithstanding the attention shown him by these fat dames, his

condition was not improved, and he was often left without even food or

water, while suffering fearfully from the heat.

Ali at length moved his camp, and Park was sent forward under the escort

of one of the king's sons. The new encampment was larger than that of

Benowm, and situated in the midst of a thick wood, about two miles

distant from a neighbouring town, called Bubaka. Here Park was

introduced to queen Fatima by Ali. She seemed much pleased at his

coming, shaking hands with him, even though Ali had told her that he was

a Christian. She was a remarkably corpulent woman, with an Arab cast of

countenance and long hair.

After asking a number of questions, with the answers to which she

appeared interested, she became perfectly at her ease and presented her

visitor with a bowl of milk. She was, indeed, the only person who

treated Park kindly during his stay.

Both men and cattle suffered much from thirst, and though Ali had given

him a skin for containing water, and Fatima once or twice presented him

with a small supply, yet such was the barbarous disposition of the

Moors, that when his boy attempted to fill his skin at the wells, he

generally received a sound drubbing for his presumption. One night,

having in vain attempted to obtain water, he resolved to try his fortune

himself at the wells, which were about half a mile distant. About

midnight he set out, and, guided by the lowing of the cattle, he reached

the place. Here a number of Moors were drawing water, but he was driven

by them from each well in succession. At last he reached one where

there was only an old man and two boys. He earnestly besought the first

to give him some water. The old man complied, and drew up a bucket; but

no sooner did Park take hold of it than, recollecting that the stranger

was a Christian, and fearing that his bucket might be polluted, he

dashed the water into the trough, and told him to drink from thence.

Though the trough was none of the largest, and three cows were already

drinking in it, Park knelt down, and, thrusting his head between two of

the cows, drank with intense pleasure till the water was nearly

exhausted.

The rainy season was now approaching, when the Moors evacuate the

country of the negroes and return to the skirts of the Great Desert.

Ali looked upon Park as a lawful prisoner, and though Fatima allowed him

food and otherwise treated him kindly, she had as yet said nothing about

his release.

Fortunately for him, Ali had resolved to send an expedition to Jarra, of

two hundred Moorish horsemen, to attack Daisy. Park obtained permission

to accompany them, and, through the influence of Fatima, he also

received back his bundle of clothes and his horse.

On the 26th of May, accompanied by Johnson and his boy Demba, he set out

with a number of Moors on horseback, Ali having gone on before. On his

way Ali's chief slave came up and told Demba that Ali was to be his

master in future; then, turning to Park, said, "The boy goes back to

Bubaka, but you may take the old fool," meaning Johnson, "with you to

Jarra." Park in vain pleaded for Demba, but the slave only answered

that if he did not mount his horse he would send him back likewise.

Poor Demba was not less affected than his master. Having shaken hands

with the unfortunate boy, and assured him that he would do everything in

his power to redeem him, Park saw him led off by three of Ali's slaves.

At Jarra he took up his lodgings in the house of an old acquaintance,

Dayman, whom he requested to use his influence with Ali to redeem the

boy, and promised him a bill on Dr Laidley for the value of two slaves

the moment he brought him to Jarra.

Ali, however, considering the boy to be Park's principal interpreter,

would not liberate him, fearing that he would be instrumental in

conducting him to Bambarra.

Still Park was eager, if possible, to continue his journey, but Johnson

refused to proceed further. At the same time he foresaw that he must

soon fall a victim to the Moors if he remained where he was, and that if

he went forward singly he must encounter great difficulties, both from

the want of an interpreter and the means of purchasing food. On the

other hand he was very unwilling to return to England without

accomplishing his mission. He therefore determined to escape on the

first opportunity at all risks. This arrived sooner than he expected.

On the 26th of June news was brought that Daisy had taken Simbug, and

would be at Jarra the next day. Hearing this, the people began packing

up their property and beating corn for their journey, and early in the

morning nearly half had set off--the women and children crying, the men

looking sullen and dejected.

Though Park was sure of being well treated could he make himself known

to Daisy, yet as he might be mistaken for a Moor in the confusion, he

thought it wisest to mount his horse with a large bag of corn before

him, and to ride away with the rest of the townspeople.

He again fell in with his friend Dayman and Johnson. They pushed on two

days' journey to the town of Queira.

While Park was out tending his horse in the fields on the 1st of July,

Ali's chief slave and four Moors arrived at Queira, and Johnson, who

suspected the object of their visit, sent two boys to overhear their

conversation. From them he learned that the Moors had come to convey

Park back to Bubaka. This was a terrible stroke to him, and, now

convinced that Ali intended to detain him for ever in captivity, or

perhaps to take his life, he determined at all risks to attempt making

his escape. He communicated his design to Johnson, who, though he

approved of it, showed no inclination to accompany him. Park therefore

resolved to proceed by himself, and to trust to his own resources.

CHAPTER THREE.

MUNGO PARK'S TRAVELS CONTINUED.

PARK ESCAPES AT NIGHT--PURSUED BY MOORS AND ROBBED--FEARFUL SUFFERING;

FROM THIRST--FINDS WATER--KINDLY TREATED BY AN OLD WOMAN--WANDERINGS IN

THE FOREST--REACHES BAMBARRA--ILL-TREATED--REACHES THE NIGER--ARRIVES AT

SEGO, THE CAPITAL--THE KING REFUSES TO SEE HIM--SENT TO A DISTANT

VILLAGE--ALMOST STARVING--A COMPASSIONATE WOMAN TAKES HIM INTO HER HOUSE

AND FEEDS HIM--KING MANSONG ORDERS HIM TO QUIT THE COUNTRY--ENTERS

SANSANDING ON THE NIGER--THE MOORS THREATEN HIM FOR BEING A CHRISTIAN--

WRITES CHARMS FOR HIS HOST--PROCEEDS--FOLLOWED BY A LION--HIS HORSE

FALLS SICK, AND, LEAVING THE ANIMAL, HE PROCEEDS ON FOOT--PROCEEDS DOWN

THE NIGER TO MOORZAN--DETERMINES TO RETURN--FINDS HIS HORSE ALIVE--RAINY

SEASON COMMENCES--AGAIN REACHES SANSANDING--INHOSPITABLY TREATED--

REPULSED FROM NUMEROUS PLACES--SWIMS SEVERAL RIVERS--BETTER TREATED AS

HE GETS WESTWARD--A NEGRO MERCHANT AT RAMMAKO RECEIVES HIM HOSPITABLY--

SETS OFF WITH A SINGING MAN AS HIS GUIDE--CONDUCTED BY TWO SHEPHERDS--

DESPOILED OF HIS CLOTHES AND HORSE BY ROBBERS--IN DANGER OF PERISHING--

REACHES SIBIDOOLOO--MANSA, THE CHIEF MAN, RECOVERS HIS HORSE AND

CLOTHES--SUFFERS FROM FEVER--PEOPLE STARVING--CONTINUES HIS JOURNEY--

KINDLY TREATED AT KAMATIA BY A BUSHREEN--KAFA TAURA--STARTS WITH A SLAVE

CARAVAN--ATTACKED BY BEES--DEATH OF A SLAVE--SUFFERINGS OF SLAVES--

REACHES PISANIA--SAILS BY WAY OF AMERICA FOR ENGLAND--REACHES HOME.

The time had arrived when, as Park felt, he must either again submit to

the tyrannical treatment of Ali, or perish possibly in attempting to

escape. At night he got ready a bundle of clothes, consisting of two

shirts and two pair of trousers, with a cloak and a _few_ other

articles; but he had not a single bead to purchase food for himself or

his horse. About daybreak Johnson came and told him that the Moors were

asleep. The awful crisis had now arrived; a cold perspiration stood on

his brow as he thought of the dreadful alternative and reflected that

one way or the other his fate must be decided in the course of the day.

To deliberate was to lose the only chance of escape; so, taking up his

bundle, he stepped gently over the negroes sleeping in the air, mounted

his horse, bade Johnson farewell, desiring him to take particular care

of the papers with which he had intrusted him, and to say that he had

left him in good health, on his way to Bambarra.

He rode on, expecting every moment to be overtaken by the Moorish

horsemen. Some shepherds he encountered followed, hooting and throwing

stones at him. Scarcely was he out of their reach, and was again

indulging in the hopes of escaping, when he heard somebody call behind

him, and on looking back, he saw three Moors on horseback galloping at

full speed and brandishing their weapons. To escape was vain. He

stopped, and one of them, presenting his musket, told him that he must

go back to Ali. The effect of this announcement was to benumb his

faculties. He rode back with apparent unconcern, but he had not gone

far when the Moors, stopping, ordered him to untie his bundle. Having

examined the articles, they found nothing worth taking except his cloak,

and one of them, pulling it off, wrapped it about himself. It had

served to protect him from the rain in the day and the dews at night,

and was of the greatest value to him. He earnestly begged the robbers

to return it, but his petition was unheeded. As he attempted to follow

them to regain his cloak, one of the robbers struck his horse over the

head, and presenting his musket, ordered him to proceed no further.

Finding that the sole object of the Moors had been to plunder him, he

turned his horse's head towards the east, thankful to have escaped with

his life.

As soon as he was out of sight of the robbers, he struck into the woods

and pushed on with all possible speed. He had at length obtained his

liberty--his limbs felt light, even the desert looked pleasant. He soon

recollected, however, that he had no means of procuring food, nor a

prospect of finding water.

He directed his course by compass in the hopes of at length reaching

some town or village in the kingdom of Bambarra.

His thirst, in consequence of the burning heat of the sun, reflected

with double violence on the sand, became intense. He climbed a tree in

the hopes of seeing some human habitation. Nothing appeared around but

thick underwood and hillocks of white sand.

At sunset he again climbed a tree, but the same sight met his eyes.

Descending, after taking the saddle off his horse's back, he was

suddenly seized with giddiness, and fell to the ground believing that

the hour of death was fast approaching. He recovered, however, just as

the sun was sinking behind the trees, and now, summoning up all his

resolution, he determined to make another effort to prolong his

existence.

He had gone on some distance further when he perceived some lightening

in the north-east, a delightful sight, for it promised rain, and soon he

heard the wind roaring among the bushes. He was expecting the

refreshing drops, when in an instant he was covered with a cloud of

sand. It continued to fly for nearly an hour; then more lightening

followed and then down came a few heavy drops of rain, enabling him to

quench his thirst by wringing and sucking his clothes.

He travelled on during the night, which was intensely dark, till he

perceived a light ahead. Cautiously approaching it he heard the lowing

of cattle and the clamorous tongues of the herdsmen, which made him

suspect that it was a watering-place belonging to the Moors. Rather

than run the risk of falling into their hands he retreated, but being

dreadfully thirsty, and fearing the approach of the burning day, he

thought it prudent to search for the wells which he expected to find at

no great distance.

While thus engaged he was perceived by a woman, who screaming out, two

people ran to her assistance from the neighbouring tents and passed

close to him.

Happily he escaped from them and, plunging again into the woods, after

proceeding a mile he heard a loud and confused noise. Great was his

delight to find that it arose from the croaking of frogs, which was

music to his ears.

At daybreak he reached some shallow pools full of large frogs, which so

frightened his horse that he was obliged to keep them quiet by beating

the water till he had drank. Having quenched his own thirst, he

ascended a tree to ascertain the best course to take, when he observed a

pillar of smoke about twelve miles off. Directing his course to it he

reached a Foulah village belonging to Ali. Hunger compelled him to

enter it, but he was denied admittance to the _dooty's_ house, and could

not obtain even a handful of corn. Reaching, however, a humble hut at

which an old motherly-looking woman sat spinning cotton, he made signs

that he was hungry. She immediately laid down her distaff, and desired

him in Arabic to come in, setting before him a dish of _kous-kous_. In

return he gave her one of his pocket-handkerchiefs, and asked for a

little corn for his horse, which she readily brought him.

While his horse was feeding the people collected round him, and from

their conversation he discovered that they proposed seizing him and

conveying him back to Ali. He therefore tied up his corn and, lest it

might be supposed that he was running from the Moors, driving his horse

before him he took a northerly direction, followed by the boys and girls

of the town. Having got rid of his troublesome attendants he struck

into the woods, where he was compelled to pass the night with his saddle

for a pillow. He was awakened by three Foulahs, who, taking him for a

Moor, told him that it was time to pray. Without answering them he

saddled his horse and made his escape.

The next day he took shelter in the tent of a Foulah shepherd, who

charitably gave him boiled corn and dates, although he was recognised as

a Christian. He here purchased some corn in exchange for some brass

buttons, and again took the road to Bambarra, which he resolved to

follow for the night. Hearing some people approaching, he thought it

prudent to hide himself, which he did in the thick brushwood. He there

sat holding his horse by the nose to prevent him neighing, equally

afraid of the natives without and the wild beasts within the forest.

The former took their departure, and he went on till past midnight, when

the croaking of frogs induced him to turn off from the road, that he and

his steed might quench their thirst. Having discovered an open place

with a single tree in the midst of it, he lay down for the night. He

was disturbed towards morning by the sound of wolves, which made him

once more mount.

On the morning of the 5th of July he reached a negro town in the

confines of Bambarra. It was a small place surrounded by high walls,

inhabited by a mixture of Mandingoes and Foulahs, chiefly employed in

the cultivation of corn. The people were suspicious of his character,

some supposing him to be an Arab, others a Moorish sultan, but the

_dooty_, or chief magistrate, who had been at Gambia, took his part, and

assured them that he was a white man. On its being reported that he was

going to Sego, the capital, several women came and begged that he would

enquire of Mansong what had become of their children, who had been

carried off to fight.

He was allowed to take his departure without molestation, and on the 6th

reached the town of Dingyee.

When he was about to depart the next morning, the landlord begged him to

give him a lock of his hair, understanding that white men's hair made a

_saphie_, or charm, which would bestow on the possessor all their

knowledge. This he willingly promised to do, but the landlord's thirst

for learning was such that he cropped nearly the whole of one side of

his head, and would have done the same with the other had not Park told

him that he wished to reserve some of this precious merchandise for a

future occasion.

Having reached the town of Wassiboo, shortly afterwards eight fugitive

Kaartan negroes, who had escaped from the tyrannical government of the

Moors, arrived, on their road to offer their allegiance to the king of

Bambarra. Park gladly accepted their invitation to accompany them on

their road.

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