Of the other valley, as far as the province of Tarapaca.
After leaving the beautiful province of Chincha, and travelling over
sandy wastes, the traveller reaches the refreshing valley of Yca, which
was not less rich and populous than the others. A river flows through
it, which, during some months in the year when the season is summer in
the _Sierra_, has so little water that the inhabitants of the valley
feel the want of it. In the days of their prosperity, before they were
subdued by the Spaniards, and when they enjoyed the government of the
Yncas, besides the channels with which they irrigated the valley, they
had one much larger than the rest, brought with great skill from the
mountains in such wise that it flowed without reducing the quantity of
water in the river.[383] Now that this great channel is destroyed, they
make deep holes in the bed of the river when it is dry, and thus they
obtain water to drink, and for watering their crops. In this valley of
Yca there were great lords in former times who were much feared and
reverenced. The Yncas ordered palaces and other buildings to be made in
the valley. The inhabitants had the same customs as the other Indians,
burying live women and great treasure with their dead.
In this valley there are very large woods of _algaroba_ trees, and many
fruit trees of the kinds already described; besides deer, pigeons,
doves, and other game. The people breed much cattle.[384]
From this valley of Yca the road leads to the beautiful rivers and
valleys of Nasca,[385] which were also very populous in times past, and
the streams were made to irrigate the fields. The late wars destroyed by
their cruelty (as is well known) all these poor Indians. Some Spaniards
of credit told me that the greatest harm to the Indians was done during
the dispute of the two governors Pizarro and Almagro, respecting the
boundaries of their jurisdictions, which cost so dear, as the reader
will see in the proper place.
In the principal valley of those of Nasca (which by another name is
called Caxamalca) there were great edifices built by order of the
Yncas.[386] I have nothing more to say of the natives than that they
also assert that their ancestors were valiant, and esteemed by the Kings
of Cuzco. I have heard that the Spaniards took a quantity of treasure
from the burial-places, or _huacas_. These valleys being so fertile, as
I have said, a great quantity of sweet canes have been planted in one of
them, of which they make much sugar for sale in the cities of this
kingdom. The great road of the Yncas passes through all these valleys,
and in some parts of the desert signs may be seen to indicate the road
that should be taken.
Beyond these valleys of Nasca is that of Acari, and further on are those
of Ocoña, Camana, and Quilca, in which there are great rivers.[387]
Notwithstanding that at the present time these valleys contain few
inhabitants, in former times they were populous, but the wars and
calamities have reduced their numbers of late years until there are now
few left. These valleys are as fruitful and abundant as the others, and
are well adapted for breeding stock.
Beyond this valley of Quilca,[388] which is the port of the city of
Arequipa, are those of Chuli, Tambopalla, and Ylo. Further on are the
rich valleys of Tarapaca. Out of the sea, in the neighbourhood of these
valleys, rise some islands much frequented by seals. The natives go to
them in _balsas_, and bring a great quantity of the dung of birds from
the rocks, to apply to their crops of maize, and they find it so
efficacious that the land, which formerly was sterile, becomes very rich
and fruitful. If they cease to use this manure they reap little maize.
Indeed the people could not be supported if the birds, lodging on the
rocks round these islands, did not leave that which is afterwards
collected, and considered so valuable as to become an article of trade
between the natives.[389]
It does not appear to me necessary to dwell longer on the things
concerning these valleys, for I have already written down the principal
things I saw or was able to obtain notice of. I will conclude,
therefore, by saying that there are now few natives, and that in ancient
times there were palaces and store-houses in all the valleys, the
tribute rendered to the Kings Yncas being conveyed partly to Cuzco,
partly to Hatuncolla, partly to Vilcas, and partly to Caxamalca. The
principal grandeur of the Yncas was in the _Sierra_. I now pass on to
the valleys of Tarapaca.
It is certain that there are very rich mines in these valleys of
Tarapaca, of white and resplendent silver. Further on, I am told by
those who have travelled in these parts, there are some deserts which
extend to the borders of the government of Chile.[390] Along all this
coast they kill fish, some of them good, and the Indians make _balsas_
of sealskin for their fishing; and in some parts there are so many seals
that the noise they make when congregating together is a thing worth
hearing.