Of the fertility of the land in these coast valleys, and of the many
fruits and roots they contain. Also concerning their excellent system of
irrigating the fields.
Now that I have given as brief an account as possible of several things
connected with our subject, it will be well to return to the valleys,
treating of each one separately, as I have already done of the provinces
and villages of the _Sierra_.[342] But first I will say somewhat
concerning the fruits, other food, and works of irrigation which are to
be found in them.
All the land of these valleys, which is not reached by the sand, forms
one of the most fertile and abundant regions in the world, and the one
best suited for cultivation. I have already mentioned that it does not
rain, and that the water for irrigation is drawn from the rivers which
descend from the mountains and fall into the South Sea. In these valleys
the Indians sow maize,[343] which is reaped twice in the year, and
yields abundantly. In some parts they grow _yucas_,[344] which are
useful for making bread and liquor when there is want of maize. They
also raise sweet potatoes,[345] the taste of which is almost the same as
that of chesnuts, besides potatoes, beans, and other vegetables.
Throughout all the valleys there is also one of the most singular fruits
I ever saw, called _pepinos_, of very pleasant smell and taste.[346]
There are great quantities of _guayavas_,[347] _guavas_,[348] and
_paltas_,[349] which are like pears, _guanavanas_,[350] _caymitos_,[351]
and the pines of those parts. About the houses of the Indians many dogs
are seen, which are very different from the Spanish kind, and about the
size of ordinary curs; they call them _chonos_.[352] The Indians breed
many ducks. In the thickets of these valleys there are _algarobas_,
somewhat long and narrow, and not so thick as the pods of beans.[353] In
some parts they make bread of these _algarobas_, and it is considered
good. They are very fond of drying such of their fruits and roots as are
adapted for it, just as we make preserved figs, raisins, and other
fruits.[354] Now there are many great vineyards in these valleys, where
large harvests of grapes are gathered. No wine has yet been made from
them, and I cannot, therefore, certify to its quality; but, as the land
is irrigated, it will probably be weak.[355] There are now also
fig-trees and pomegranates, and I believe, and hold for certain, that
all the fruits of Spain may be grown here.
Wheat is raised, and it is a beautiful sight to see the fields covered
with crops, in a region devoid of natural supplies of water. Barley
grows as well as wheat, and lemons, limes, oranges, and citrons are all
excellent and plentiful. There are also large banana plantations; and
besides those which I have already enumerated, there are many other
luscious fruits which I do not mention, because it seems sufficient to
enumerate the principal ones.
As the rivers descend from the mountains and flow through these valleys,
and as some of the valleys are broad, while their whole extent is, or
was, when the country was more thickly populated, covered with flocks,
they led channels of water in all directions, which is a remarkable
thing, for these channels were conducted over high and low places, along
the sides of hills and over them, some in one direction, some in
another, so that it is a great enjoyment to travel in these valleys, and
to pass through their orchards and refreshing gardens.
The Indians had, and still have, great works for drawing off the water,
and making it flow through certain channels. Sometimes it has chanced
that I have stopped near one of these channels, and before we had
finished pitching the tent the channel was dry, the water having been
drawn off in another direction, for it is in the power of the Indians to
do this at their pleasure. These channels are always very green, and
there is plenty of grass near them for horses.[356] In the trees and
bushes many birds fly about; there are pigeons, doves, turkeys,
pheasants, and some partridges, besides many deer in the thickets. But
there are no evil things, such as serpents, snakes, and wolves. There
are, however, many foxes, which are so cunning that, although great care
is taken to watch the things where the Spaniards or Indians encamp, they
come to steal, and when they can find nothing better, they make off with
the bridles or switches for the horses.[357] In many parts of the
valleys there are extensive fields of sweet cane, and they make sugar,
treacle, and other things from it.
All these Yunca Indians are great labourers, and when they carry loads
they strip to the skin, until they have nothing on save a bit of cloth
between the legs, and so they run with their loads. They took great care
in irrigating their land, and also in sowing, which was done by many in
concert together. I will now speak of the road from the city of San
Miguel to that of Truxillo.