Of the grandeur of the mountains of Abibe, and of the admirable and
useful timber which grows there.
Having crossed these low forest covered plains, the way leads up a broad
chain of mountains called Abibe.[202] This mountain-chain extends to the
west, over many provinces and uninhabited tracts. Its length is
uncertain, but its breadth is in some places twenty leagues: in others
much more, and in others a little less. The roads by which the Indians
crossed this wild chain of mountains (for many parts of it are
inhabited) were so bad and difficult, that horses neither can nor ever
will be able to pass over them. The Captain Francisco Cesar, was the
first Spaniard who crossed this range of mountains, and with much
trouble he came to the valley of Guaco, which is on the other side. The
roads are assuredly most difficult and wearisome, for they are full of
evil places and thickets, while the roots are such that they entangle
the feet of both men and horses. At the highest part of the mountains
there is a very laborious ascent, and a still more dangerous descent on
the other side. When we descended with the licentiate Juan de Vadillo,
there being several very steep declivities, we made a sort of wall with
ropes and stakes filled in with earth, so that the horses might be able
to pass without danger, and although this contrivance was of some use,
yet many horses fell over and were dashed to pieces. Even among the
Spaniards some were killed, and others were so much injured that they
were unable longer to proceed, and remained in the forests, awaiting
their deaths in great misery concealed by the brushwood, so that those
who remained whole might not see them and carry them forward. Some of
the horses, too, were so much exhausted that they could not go on, and
many Negroes either fled or died. Certainly, we who passed over these
mountains were in very evil case, seeing that we suffered the hardships
that I have just described. There are no inhabitants whatever in the
higher parts of the mountains, or if there are, they live at a distance
from the road by which we traversed them; but in the valleys which run
up into these mountains there are many Indians, who possess much gold.
The rivers which descend from this range towards the west, bring down
great store of gold. Nearly all the year round it rains, and the trees
are always dropping water from their leaves. There is no fodder for the
horses, except some small long prickly leaves, inside which grow small
_palmitos_, which are very bitter; and I have been myself in such
straits with weariness and hunger, that I have eaten them. As it is
always raining, and the Spanish travellers are constantly wet, the whole
of them would certainly die if they had no fire. But the giver of
blessings, who is Christ our God and Lord, displays his power
everywhere, and thinks it good to be merciful and to afford us a remedy
for all our ills. Although there is no want of fire-wood in these
mountains, yet it is so wet that if the fire was lighted it would go
out. To provide for this want there are certain tall trees, something
like an ash, the wood of which is white and very dry: when this wood is
cut up and set fire to, it burns like candlewood, and does not go out
until it is consumed by the flames. We owe our lives entirely to the
discovery of this wood. Where the Indians are settled there are plenty
of supplies of fruit and fish, besides great store of brightly dyed
cotton mantles. Here the evil root of Uraba is not found, and the
Indians have no other arms than palm lances, clubs, and darts. They make
bridges over the numerous rivers with stout creepers, which are like
roots growing on the trees, and are as strong as hempen ropes. They make
a great rope by twisting several of these together and throw it across
the river, fastening each end securely to the trees, of which there are
many near the banks. Several more are secured in the same way, and thus
a bridge is formed. The Indians and their wives pass across; but they
are so dangerous that I should very much prefer walking over the bridge
of Alcantara. Notwithstanding this, and in spite of the danger, the
Indians, as I have said, go over laden, with their women and children,
with as little fear as if they were on firm land. All these Indians of
the mountains are subject to a great and powerful cacique, called
Nutibara. Having passed these mountains, there is a very pretty valley
where there is no forest, but naked hills: and the Indians have their
roads on the plain and sides of the hills.