CHAPTER IX

_Moscow of the Ecclesiastics_

"Come, brothers! your heads you may bow,

Before grand and most holy Moscow;

Where the old altars of our land,

Where shrines of saints, and ikons stand,

Our inmost sanctuary."--BOROZDNA.

Holy Moscow, so reverently and affectionately regarded by the orthodox

as the Mother of the Church, is to them more than a mere agglomeration

of sacred shrines and ecclesiastical edifices. Neither the

churches--though they are numerous and important enough to warrant the

familiar appellation--nor yet the wonder-working, incorruptible remains

and the miraculous ikons most endear Moscow to the true-believer--for

there are such elsewhere which receive like humble homage. Holy Moscow

comprises all that has served to nurse and sustain the faith amidst

infidel aggression; the white-walled and golden-crowned city is symbolic

of the lasting reward of heroic endeavour in the upward struggle of the

race towards supremacy. Not indestructible itself, but its spirit

undying; razed time after time only to appear again greater and more

glorious than before, Moscow seems to the Russian not so much a part of

the national entity personified in empire, as the very soul of his race;

possessed, even as each individual, with strength to endure adversity

and unfailing vigour to accomplish a predestined purpose. Traditions of

divine intervention; the finding and promulgation of Law; much that is

miraculous and legendary as well as all that is credible in early

national history the Russian associates with Moscow, and feels what the

stranger cannot be made to perceive, may even fail to comprehend, for

the outward and visible sign of the living spirit that actuates the

Church is but faint and imperfect, even as performance is so often but

an inadequate rendering of intention. Although the sanctity of Moscow

may not be apparent to the unorthodox, the observer will expect some

characteristics of motive to stand revealed in externals. But to the

uninitiated the ritual of the Russian Church is bewildering, and the

true significance of such symbols as are exhibited in ecclesiastical

architecture and ornament is likely to be missed by over accentuating

the importance of whatever may be unusual. For many, who are quite

ignorant of its tenets and practice, the Eastern Church has an

irresistible fascination; the danger is that these, on a first

acquaintance will over-praise such details as they may appreciate and

too hastily condemn others they may not rightly comprehend, and fail to

arrive at a just conclusion by means of further study when no longer

attracted by the novelty of the subject. To confine oneself to the

consideration of externals is insufficient, being tantamount to the act

of one who, absolutely ignorant of card games, endeavours to obtain an

idea of the amusement derived from their play by careful examination of

the accurate printing and careful finish of certain cards in the pack.

On the other hand an attempt to convey by words alone an accurate idea

of the full teaching of the Eastern Church is foredoomed to failure, and

the most that can be done is to indicate the broad lines of the policy

that has actuated it, and risk such errors as must accrue from possible

mistranslations of meaning.

All Christian races treasure some legend as to the conversion of their

forefathers by one of the Apostles. The Russians are no exception, and,

in any event, the introduction of Christianity into their country took

place in the heroic age.

"Novgorod, a city of great antiquity, having been founded by Rha, a

grandson of Noah and son of Japhet, was visited by the Apostle St

Andrew who wished to preach the gospel. The people would not listen

to him, and having disrobed the saint threw him bound into a

scalding bath. The saint distressed, and almost suffocated by the

vapour, called out '[Greek: idrôsa]' (I sweat), whence the name

Russia. Other histories state that the conversion of the race took

place some thousand years later, when, strange as it may appear,

the Polyans were first called Russ, as some think from 'ros,' the

old German name for 'horse.' There is a tradition that Vladimir the

Great, having conquered fresh territory, became tired of his pagan

gods and expressed a desire to embrace a newer faith. With the

Christianity of Rome he would have nothing to do, for, he said, his

relations in the west had embraced that, and yet were always at war

and without good fortune. The Karaïm Jews of South Russia wished to

convert him, but when he learned that they were exiled from the

land of their fathers and had no country of their own, he refused,

saying they were receiving the harvest of their sins and that he

had no wish to cause his people to share their punishment. Then

hearing that at Constantinople another religion was professed he

sent delegates thither to observe and judge whether or not it would

suit him. These Russians were astonished at the many lights in the

temple; were moved by the singing and the stately procession of

deacons, sub-deacons and others to and from the sacristy, and,

particularly, at the humble manner in which the people prostrated

themselves when the priests appeared. The ritual they did not

understand and asked their guides what it all meant. 'All that we

have seen,' they said, 'is awful and majestic, but what seems to us

supernatural is the young men who have white wings and dazzling

robes, and cry "Holy! Holy! Holy!" in mid-air--this truly surprises

us.' 'What?' answered the guides, 'do you not know that angels come

down from heaven to our services?' 'You are right,' said the

Russians; 'it is enough--more we do not wish to see; let us return

to our country and tell of that which we have already seen."

If the early chronicles may be trusted, the Bible was first translated

into Slavic by Cyril and Methodius, two Greek monks of Byzantium, about

the year 863, and so prior to the advent of the Norseman Rurik. In all

probability, the faith was spread by proselytising clergy, in part

helped by the devotion of the noble women of Byzantium who wedded with

the savage Ros, and from the first was wholly independent of the civil

power.

Of persecution there was little; Kiev furnished one Voeroeger

martyr, and, as elsewhere among heathen, the Christian religion appears

to have been readily embraced. Before the Kremlin was raised, before

Moscow was, the church was represented on the banks of the Moskva by the

little wooden chapel "spass na Boru." Ivan Kalita was one of the first

to recognise the usefulness of the church as an adjunct to civil and

military power; he made priests not only welcome in Moscow but all

important there. How the reigning princes caused the church in Moscow to

rival in authority that of Kiev and, later, to attain supremacy

throughout Russia, has already been stated. Of equal importance to the

work initiated by any Tsar were the services of St Sergius, founder of

the great monastery at Troitsa, which at one time possessed immense

tracts of land and owned more than 100,000 serfs. Sergius was born at

Great Rostov, and in his youth passed some time near Moscow, and later,

having a dozen disciples and the aid of the Patriarch of Constantinople,

helped greatly the colonisation of Russia by sending out monks trained

at Troitsa. He lived the life of a hermit, and even when abbot did his

full share of the menial labour. A commonly seen picture represents him

as an old man seated on a rough bench sharing his piece of bread with a

bear. Then came St Peter, an apostle sent from Macedonia, who, as a sign

"passed through the fire" uninjured; after converting many he settled at

Kiev and was of great assistance to George Danielovich in raising the

clerical status of Moscow, and to his "incorruptible remains" many

miracles are attributed. A large number of relics assigned to him are

still preserved in the Uspenski Sobor and the sacristy of the

Patriarchs. Next in importance to Moscow was Alexis, the Metropolitan,

afterwards canonised. From the earliest times, the clergy, living the

life of the people and not that of the military caste, had great

influence with citizens and peasants: many times the church has raised

the spirit of the nation when oppressed by foreign invaders. It spurred

on Ivan III. to overthrow the Mongol rule, and stirred up the people to

repulse the Poles and secure national independence. One source of its

power has been the use of the vernacular in all services; the church

most certainly during the centuries of Tartar dominion also preserved

the Slavic tongue from foreign dialects. The clergy have always held it

their chief duty to pass on to their successors their faith as they

received it. Schism is not tolerated; the slightest modification of

ritual is forbidden. The Metropolitans of Moscow were long able to

preserve the independence of the church against the encroachments of the

reigning princes; Ivan the Terrible's chief plaint against the clergy

was that they exercised their privilege of forbidding the execution of

those whom he had condemned to death. Boris Godunov gave Moscow a

Patriarch, and added to the power of the church by appointing seven of

the clergy to seats in the States Council. When, in 1615, the Tsar

Michael met his father, the Patriarch Philaret, on the banks of the

Pressenaia (near the Drogomilov Bridge) both bowed low and remained long

recumbent, unwilling that either should consider the head of the church

superior or inferior to the head of the state. From that time until

Philaret's death in 1639 father and son practically ruled conjointly.

Nikon was scarce content to be the equal of his sovereign, and ranked

the church above the state: he fell. Peter the Great scornfully

suppressed the Patriarchate, but did not arrogate to himself the powers

of the head of the church, substituting a synod to be elected from the

hierarchy he himself appointed. So it remains to the present day, the

reigning monarch having no right, from his position, to interfere in

spiritual affairs, yet still controlling the administration of church

law.

In matters of belief the Eastern church nearly approaches the

Anglican, the main divergence is that whereas the Anglican and

Roman churches agree that the Holy Ghost proceeds from the Father

and the Son, the Eastern Church holds that it proceeds from the

Father only. The bible may be read; the church may interpret its

teaching, "for the traditions of the church have been maintained

uncorrupted through the influence of the Holy Spirit." God the

Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost, "perfectly equal in nature and

dignity," may alone be worshipped; but homage may be paid to the

Virgin Mary, and reverence shown to the saints, to ikons and to

relics. That this may not be abused, bishops at their consecration

are requested to promise that "honour shall be shown to God only,

not to the sacred ikons, and that no false miracle shall be

ascribed to them.... The _moshi_ or incorruptible remains which are

so greatly venerated, are the corpses of those long dead, whose

burial-place has been forgotten and is made known by a supernatural

manifestation. These remains must not be subject to the ordinary

process of decay, and may possess such virtue as to miraculously

cure the sick--which is the quality usually attributed to them."

The ecclesiastical architecture of Moscow, or of Russia, is not so

complex as it appears to be at first sight; originally the place for

Christian worship was but a square log-hut; add an apse at the east end,

cover the building with a dome roof supporting a cross to indicate its

sacred character, and the external structure of the primitive church is

complete. Instead of a dome roof it was found easier, as larger

buildings became necessary, to cover with the dome only the centre of

the church, which was still further elevated to make more prominent the

dome and cross denoting the purpose of the building. Three apses,

symbolic of the Trinity, took the place of one; five and seven are

sometimes found. When the idea of the original whole dome roof was

expressed by four small domes arranged around the higher central one,

the model became the permanent type from which all other forms have been

elaborated. The primitive type is best exemplified in the church of St

Michael within the Chudov monastery, but the cathedrals of the

Assumption and of the Archangels, on the Sobornia Ploshchad of the

Kremlin, will serve equally well to illustrate the permanent form. The

origin and development of the bulbous dome, as well as the size,

position and number of secondary domes, may be traced by comparing the

various old churches in South Russia, and those of wood, formerly or at

present existing in "wooden" Russia. For this purpose a convenient

series of framed drawings is to be found on stands in Room [Greek: B] of

the Historical Museum. They confirm what has already been stated in the

preceding chapter, concerning the origin of Russian architecture, and

show that the number of domes--some churches have seventeen, if not

more--is immaterial, since all should be so arranged as to increase the

importance of the central one. Those in which all are equal in size and

height--as the roof over the chapels of the Terem--are quite

exceptional. The chief modification arose from the necessity of

preserving the structure and its valued contents from the great cold of

the winter and the excessive moisture of the summer. To overcome the

first difficulty the church was surrounded with a gallery; to obviate

the second the floor of the church raised to a higher storey; when the

two were combined as in many churches of the sixteenth and seventeenth

century, some elaboration of proaulion and _Kriltso_ was natural. The

best specimens of this class are the churches of St Nicholas of the

Great Cross on the Ilyinka, and of the Assumption on the Pokrovka; the

ordinary design is that of the porches and approach to Vasili Blajenni,

and of the Blagovieshchenski Sobor before the ground was raised to its

present level.

The belfry, a somewhat late comer to the Russian church, was usually a

separate building adjacent to, but not a component part of, the church

itself. When masonry superseded wood, the old designs were for the most

part retained: so possibly the only other important point of general

application is the subsequent employment of the tapering spire--and its

modifications of superposed arches, etc.--to support the dome and cross,

instead of the cylindrical shaft peculiar to Russian architecture, which

last was evidently derived from round towers of very remote origin. The

windows are small and unimportant--often mere oblong slits in the

wall--and, though the accepted form admits of little modification

towards the elaboration of elegance and grace in the design, and the

decoration is limited by the ecclesiastical objection to carved

figures--and climatic conditions which preclude the employment of

projecting mouldings and all fine work in high relief--the brilliant

colouring and mural decorations of plane surfaces convey an impression

of richness, which, combined with the absence of the usual and

conspicuousness of strange decorations, magnify the whole, in many

instances, into the resemblance of whatever the imagination may picture

as most ornate and brilliant.

In essentials the interior arrangements of all the churches are similar:

east of the pillars that support the central dome, the church is divided

by the ikonostas--a development of the rood-screen--which separates the

officiating priests from the worshippers. In old churches seats were

placed round the walls and stalls provided for persons of high rank, but

for long it has been customary for the congregation to stand during the

services. Behind the ikonostas is the sanctuary; there females may not

enter, nor any male if physically imperfect; it is disclosed to the

worshippers during the celebration of Mass by opening the "Royal Doors"

in the centre of the ikonostas. There are in all churches sacred ikons,

having the place of honour on the ikonostas; decorative and illustrative

pictures are placed there also, and the same--as frescoes, or

otherwise--around the central columns and along the walls of the church.

Usually the north wall is appointed for those pertaining to the saint to

whom the church is dedicated; the south wall to the seven councils, the

west to other sacred subjects. Although the ikonostas is the equivalent

of the rood-screen in the old English churches, it is not only always a

fixture, but sometimes a solid partition of masonry, being really that

barrier which shuts off the Holy of Holies, that may be entered by the

consecrated priests alone, from the rest of the temple. It is always

decorated, but the high ikonostas, having five, or even seven, tiers of

pictures is a development later than the fifteenth century. The "Royal

Doors" must have representations of the Annunciation and the four

Evangelists, since through this entrance came the glad tidings of the

Eucharist; right and left of the doors the Saviour and the Madonna;

also, usually, Adam, as the first fallen, and the Penitent Thief as the

first redeemed; above, the Trinity; Abraham entertaining the three

angels and John the Baptist most frequently figure on the screen, and,

on the pillars facing the entrance, the Publican and Pharisee as

symbolic of an all inclusive congregation of worshippers.

In the Sanctuary is a tabernacle or Sinai, upon the altar, and over it a

baldachino on which the cross is laid horizontally--or nearly so. In the

apse behind

[Illustration: CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY AND FLIGHT]

the altar is the _thronos_ or seat of the head of the church, with other

seats for priests on both sides; the choir is a raised dais before the

ikonostas.

The Russian cross has eight points. To the Latin cross are added the

titulus, and a lower diagonal crosspiece which is assumed to be a rest

for the feet. _Post hoc, propter hoc_, and that this rest slants is said

to be due to the fact that Christ was lame; others think that its

purpose is merely to give the idea of perspective of the hill Golgotha

on which the cross was placed, and others as indicating the earthquake,

whilst those versed in mystic symbolism will recognise a totally

distinct signification.[B] To these last too, the accepted explanations

of the crescent from which the cross rises will be insufficient. It was

common in Russia prior to the Mongol occupation, so is not the result of

placing crosses upon mosques, or intended to denote the subjugation of

Mahommedanism to Christianity. More probable is the explanation, that in

ancient pictures the Virgin is shown standing upon the crescent, and the

cross was later placed by the Russian ecclesiastics to denote that the

cross issues from the Mother of God. Maxim, the Greek, in the sixteenth

century, declared that the crescent represented Upsilon, the initial of

[Greek: hupsos], and so is emblematical of the uplifting of the cross;

but if its application as a sign of Christian dogma is open to various

constructions, all will at once recognise the sign as one of the most

ancient and general of mystic symbols.

[B] The Russian cross is derived from the old eastern form of the

Greek letter _xi_.

The ecclesiastical art of Russia is of a different nature to that of any

school of the west. The ikons, or sacred pictures, must be exact copies

of the originals, thus the practice supports Gibbon's contention that

the religious value of a sacred image depends for its efficacy upon its

resemblance to the original.[C] In Moscow there are several pictures of

the Saviour "not made with hands," being in that respect, and that only,

similar to the Veronica and the miraculous image of Edessa. They are not

alike, and their origin is not known, but it is conjectured that the

initials [Greek: O T H], on the nimbus, have been wrongly interpreted as

the initials of _ot, otsa, Nebesnavo_, which means "From Our Father on

High" instead of _On, Otets, Nash_--"He is Our Father." The Greek

characters were little known in Russia, and one of the pictures has this

legend in Greek [Greek: O.Ô.N.] In the same connection it is worth

noting that our I.H.S. is a misreading into Latin of [Greek: IÊS], the

Greek contraction of [Greek: IÊSous], where the long e was mistaken for

a capital H, and the dash above it developed into a cross. The ordinary

ikons are restricted to fixed types; the artist therefore has never

needed to create, only to reproduce. There are no Russian Madonnas, all

are replicas of pictures brought from Greece or Byzantium; "the ikon

painter knows but one costume, for all places and all times it changeth

not; tradition fixes the form of the head, the pose, the proportion, the

attitudes and the attributes." Most are produced by monks and

probationers who follow the instructions given in a tenth century MS. by

Dionysius of Mount Athos. Rigorously it is only the features of the

saint that must be exactly reproduced; in practice it is customary to

cover all but the face and hands with thin metal--gold, silver, or gilt,

and to ornament the setting lavishly. In the seventeenth century, the

golden age of Muscovite ecclesiasticism, there were several branches of

ikon painting, not differing sufficiently to warrant the appellation of

"schools." These were known as the Imperial or Court style; the Village,

the Strogonov, and the Monastic. Novgorod would have the faces yellow;

the Strogonov insisted upon dark green--an introduction from Byzantium,

and sometimes known as Khorsunski. Black virgins are not unknown--the

result of time upon impure pigments; those with three small scratches on

the face are copies of the Iberian Mother of God, a twelfth century

ikon of the Virgin. Graven images are not allowed in the Russian

Church, being held to be a violation of the second commandment. The only

exception is that of St Nicholas. Holy Statues were abolished by order

of the Patriarch Philaret, and when these were removed from the churches

all went well until hands were laid upon one of the representatives of

the patron Saint; no force could stir that; where, by extraordinary

means, the statue was broken from the pedestal, the image of the saint

reappeared. This is the only figure seen in high relief, and is usually

made with the model of a church in his hand. The popularity of the saint

may be estimated from the fact, that at one time there were as many as

118 churches in Moscow dedicated to St Nicholas.

[C] "By a slow though inevitable progression the honours of the

original were transferred to the image; the merit and effect of a copy

depends upon its resemblance with the original."--_Gibbon,--Decline

and Fall of the Roman Empire_, chapter xlix.

The rites of the Russian Church are complex, and to the unorthodox,

perplexing. The celebrant by the minute observance of minor details

gives to every act a symbolic meaning, and to even the least significant

of them some dogma of the church is attached. The service is in

Slavonic, of which the ordinary people do not understand the letter, but

can follow the general meaning; it is impressive apart from its

significance, and is intended so to be. It commences with a call to

worship--the _vozglass_--singing of psalms; a series of

prayers--_ektenia_--for the welfare of the church, intoned; the evangels

or epistles also intoned; "choral and part-singing of unequalled harmony

and richness; prayers; consecration of the elements; administration of

the sacrament, which the priest takes every service, and the

congregation at will, but at least once yearly; thanksgiving, and the

parting benediction; chanting and incense-burning are frequent

throughout, and asperging is practised at the commencement and

termination. For the greater part of the time the "Royal doors" are

closed: the deacons remain before the ikonostas, but now and again some

enter the Sanctuary for a short time. From time to time priests and

acolytes pass to and fro among the congregation, incensing all the

sacred ikons in turn. The voice of the officiating priest is raised

within, and is answered in deep tones by the deacons without. Now from

some unnoticed corner comes a clear ringing chant from many voices, from

another a deep single voice is heard intoning the epistle, or evangel,

of the day; then suddenly the Royal doors fly open and a glimpse is

obtained of the celebrant through thick rolling clouds of incense; the

people prostrate themselves and the doors close." Later the priest

emerges and the service has concluded--to the unorthodox stranger of any

creed it has been almost meaningless.

The history of Moscow is so intermingled with that of the Russian

Church, and the cathedrals of the Kremlin and private chapels of the

palace the scene of so many notable events, that the reader will not

need a recountal of the stories concerning the historical characters who

have made them famous. Here it will suffice if the minor details to be

examined are enumerated, and the tale of the struggle between orthodoxy

and dissent succinctly related.

USPENSKI SOBOR

The Cathedral of the Assumption, formerly known as that of the

Patriarchs, originated with the Metropolitan Peter, who said to Ivan

"Kalita," "If thou wishest that my old age be graced with peace,

content, and fulness, thou wilt raise on this site a grand temple to our

Holy Mother of God, then shalt thou likewise be happy, become the most

illustrious of the princes of our age, and thy race powerful throughout

the earth." So in 1326 Ivan erected a fine wooden church, which, in

1472, when the wood buildings were being replaced

[Illustration: USPENSKI SOBOR, THE IKONOSTAS]

by those of stone, was taken down and an attempt made by Russian

artisans to build its equal in brick. Before this work was complete the

walls fell, and Aristotle of Bologna, who had been entrusted with the

removal of the Campanile there, and the repair of the leaning tower of

Cento, was ordered to construct the cathedral anew. Aristotle taught the

Muscovites how to make larger and harder bricks than the pantiles to

which they were accustomed; how to turn an arch and make vaulted roofs.

He took as his model for this cathedral the church of the Virgin in

Vladimir and used the white stone of Kolomna hewn into rectangular

blocks which he fastened together with iron cramps.

_Structure._--The foundations are 15 feet below the surface, but

the floor of the cathedral was originally seven or more feet lower

than at present: height to cupola 128 feet. The walls were

strengthened in 1626 after the injury done by the Poles; in 1684

the domes were covered with gilded copper, and the mural

decorations restored after the fire of All Saint's day, 1737, and

the French occupation, but otherwise the edifice, is practically as

completed in 1497.

_The South Porch_ is closed by the Golden Gates of Korsoun, which

were carried from that town to Suzdal, and thence to Moscow--they

are actually of coppered iron gilt, divided into twenty

compartments exhibiting scenes from biblical history, and below

Apollo, Plato, and mythological figures. Before them the Grand

Princes of Muscovy were invested with the authority of the Khan by

his bashkak during the centuries of the Mongol supremacy. The Royal

entrance is by the western doors; the public entrance by those on

the north side.

_The interior_ is remarkable for its ikonostas and ikons. The

screen is of masonry and descends 10 feet below the surface; it is

adorned with frescoes, which may be inspected only when the sacred

ikons are removed for that special purpose. The upper range has

been recently restored to its condition prior to the French

invasion, when the old one was stripped of all its precious metal;

the great silver chandelier of 2940 lbs., made in England in 1630,

was put in the casting-pot and scales suspended from its place;

horses were stabled in the chapel, and tethered to the coffins of

the metropolitans. Not content with robbing the sanctuary of its

precious metals the French deliberately placed the mannikins from

the old suits of armour in the Orujenni Palata as idols in

conspicuous positions about the church. The chandeliers are of

silver--some 900 lbs. of which in the one from the central cupola

is that recovered by the Cossacks from the retreating French: some

five tons of precious metal are in the present ikonostas.

_The ikons_ include the most prized Mary of Vladimir attributed to

St Luke, which was brought from Tsar Grad--Constantinople--to

Kief, taken by Andrew Bogoloobski to Vladimir and brought to Moscow

on the Tartar invasion. It is regarded as miraculous, having saved

the city from Tamerlane, and on subsequent occasions. Tsars and

people alike in past generations have regarded this picture as

their Palladium. Of its artistic merits it would be idle to write;

black with age and discoloured by the accidents incidental to

preservation in an oft burned city, it is as represented in the

frontispiece. Completely enveloped, but hands and face, in precious

metal and handsome garniture, it exhibits a richness of decoration

few articles of _vertu_ can equal; the gems alone being valued at

upwards of £100,000, and the great emerald itself at £10,000. The

next ikon of importance is that of the Holy Virgin of Jerusalem,

which, according to tradition, was the work of the apostles. Taken

to Constantinople in the fifth century and to Kherson in the tenth,

it came thence to Moscow--but others say, it is but a copy, the

original having disappeared during the French occupation. On the

right of the royal doors is the image of our Saviour in the golden

chasuble, painted by the Greek emperor Manuel, and brought from

Novgorod the Great in 1478. By its side is an ikon with most

brilliant colouring representing the Assumption, which is said to

be the work of the metropolitan Peter, the founder of the church;

but if it be not his handicraft is still a remarkable specimen of

the ikon painter's art in Russia of the fourteenth century. These,

with others, are all on the lower tier. On the tiers above are

usually placed: highest, the Madonna and the Infant Jesus, the

fathers of the church in pre-mosaic days, portraits of persons

mentioned in Genesis; on the second stage, the prophets from Moses

to Jesus Christ; on the third, incidents in the life of the Saviour

illustrative of church feasts; on the fourth, portraits of the

saints of the orthodox church; on the fifth, the sacred ikons.

_Other pictures_ in the cathedral include portraits of the

patriarchs and saints; many frescoes on a gold ground are ranged

around the four pillars that support the central cupola; and, on

the walls, the martyrdoms of orthodox saints are depicted. A

bas-relief, supposed to represent St George slaying the dragon, has

been identified by Sneguirev as once part of a triumphal arch the

Christians erected in Rome to Constantine the Great.

_The Sanctuary_ has a tabernacle of precious metal (17 lbs. gold

and 17 lbs. silver) on the grand altar, which contains the Host and

formerly also held a number of important state papers which were

transferred to St Petersburg in 1880. Also a large Bible of Natalia

Naryshkin set with gems worth several thousand pounds.

_The Chapel of Sts. Peter and Paul_ is before the most northern

apse, with the tomb of St Peter immediately on the right when

entering; just beyond it is that of the metropolitan St Theognitus;

on the left are sacred relics: (_a_) the "Holy Coat" or a portion

of the "tunic" worn by the Saviour; (_b_) a nail of the true cross;

(_c_) the right hand of St Andrew the Apostle; (_d_) the head of St

Gregory the theologian; and (_e_) the head of St John Chrysostom.

The shrines were profaned by Tokhtamysh, and ransacked by the

French. Here in olden times the rulers of the principalities in

vassalage to Moscow embraced the cross and swore fealty, and here

the metropolitans were appointed to their office.

_The Chapel of St Dmitri_ of Thessalonica, called "The Peaceable."

is on the south side of the sanctuary. It contains the oldest tomb

in Moscow, that of Yuri, brother of Ivan "Kalita," and it was in

this Chapel that Yuri Glinski, brother of Ivan the Terrible's

mother, was slain.

_The Chapel of the Virgin Mary_ is reached by a flight of steps

near the south apse, for it is situated under the southern cupola.

There the patriarchs were elected. In its sanctuary are: (_a_) Copy

of the gospels, printed in Moscow and presented to the boy-Tsars,

Ivan and Peter, with beautiful initials and rich binding, the work

of foreign artisans in the palace; (_b_) an illuminated psalter of

the fifteenth century; (_c_) an illuminated MS. of the gospels by

Russian scribes, 1664; (_d_) a cross of cypress wood, enclosing a

piece of the true cross; (_e_) cross of the Emperor Constantine;

(_f_) Jasper vases which were ornamented with the Latin cross--they

were brought from Novgorod, having belonged to the old monastery

there, by Ivan. IV.; (_g_) a sacramental chalice, which was

presented to Monomachus by Alexis Cominus, and is used to the

present day for the Holy Oil with which the Tsars are anointed at

their coronation.

_The Tombs_ of the Patriarchs are ranged along the western wall;

that of Jonas is on the north-west, and near the ikonostas is the

shrine of St Philip, murdered in Tver by Maluta Skutarov to please

Ivan IV.

_The Thrones_ or stalls of the Tsar and Tsaritsa are situated, the

first between the south column and the south wall, the second just

before the north column; the large stall in front of the south

column is for the Patriarch, and dates from the days of Philaret

only. The canopy in the south-western corner is for the "Holy

Coat" sent by the Shah Abbas, but this is usually kept in the altar

of the north chapel.

It is pretty generally known that the Uspenski Sobor is the State

Cathedral; that in it the Tsars of Russia must be crowned; there,

too, several have been married, foreign princes have renounced

their faith and accepted the orthodox religion prior to marriage

with the Royal princesses, and there Peter the Great caused his son

Alexis to repudiate his right to succeed to the throne: actually it

is the mausoleum of the Patriarchs and heads of the Orthodox

Church.

There is nothing in its architecture that demands comment, the external

mural pictures are common place, and from the artistic standpoint the

work that merits closest attention and highest praise is the open

scroll, bent and hammered metal on the lattices of the different

shrines, and almost equally good is much of the chiselled, moulded and

other decorative metal work on the ikonostas. It is a typical church,

richer in precious metal, sacred ikons and holy relics than other

churches in Moscow; it is the pious wish of the guardians of the other

churches to make theirs even as is this.

ARCHANGELSKI SOBOR

The Cathedral of the Archangel Michael is of even plainer appearance

than the Uspenski; its south wall has been propped by a common buttress

which, pierced for the lancet windows, gives that side much the

appearance of a fortress. Its history is similar to that of the other

cathedrals; the first wooden church on the site was erected in the

twelfth century. Ivan "Kalita" built it anew as the place of sepulture

for himself and his descendants. Ivan III. demolished that church and

employed the Italian Aleviso to construct the present edifice,

consecrated in 1500. It has suffered severely at different times,

especially during the French occupation, when an attempt was made to

destroy it by exploding a large quantity of spirit the French brought

within for the purpose, but this served only to scatter the tombs, wreck

the interior and spring the south wall. The church contains the remains

of the princes and all the Tsars of Moscow. The petitions of the people

laid upon the tombs of the Tsars were taken and read by Peter I.

himself. Most of the religious ceremonies peculiar to this church relate

to masses for the dead, and homage paid to the memory of ancestors. It

has the usual rectangular form, the four central columns, the five

cupolas, which the people think always dedicated to the Saviour and the

four evangelists. The chapel on the west side is a later addition--the

sole remaining one of four, which existed in the seventeenth century. On

the south side is a small chamber which was the _izba_, or Palace of

Justice, and below it are vaulted arches which extend almost the whole

length of the Kremlin; the original paving is now some 12 feet below the

level of the squares adjoining. Here the Tsar's gift of money was

scattered at his coronation. The most noteworthy objects in the church

are: the ikonostas, high, brilliant and sparkling with gems; the

excellent metal-work of the shrines; the mural paintings--portraits of

the Tsars whose tombs are below, and the richly worked palls over the

tombs.

_The ikonostas_ is of five stages; the sacred ikons are: (_a_) The

Virgin "Beneficent," brought to Moscow by the Tsaritsa Sophia

Vitovtovna; (_b_) the Virgin of Tikhvin, the ikon of the Tsaritsa

Maria Nagoi, mother of the murdered Tsarevich, Dmitri; (_c_) St

Basil the Great, near the south wall; (_d_) St Simeon Stylite.

_The tombs_ of forty-seven princes of the line of Rurik lie upon

the floor: though not arranged in chronological order, no

difficulty will be found in recognising any one of them. Only one

Emperor, Peter II., grandson of Peter the Great, is buried here;

those of the Tsars Michael and Alexis Romanof are on the right hand

near the first pillar, surrounded by those of their sons and

grandsons. Near is the tomb of the murdered Dmitri, whose portrait

in gold is hung on the pillar over the coffin. The silver

candelabra before it was presented by the inhabitants of Uglitch

where he was murdered when but six years old. Vasili, the blind, is

buried near the ikonostas; and by his side lies Ivan III., the

maker of middle Moscow and uniter of the Russian-lands. Near the

first pillar on the left is the tomb of Alexander, Tsar of Kazan:

near the second pillar, the Tsarevich Peter, son of Ibrahim, and

grandson of Mamotiakov, once Tsar of Kazan. The remains of Ivan the

Terrible are near the high altar, a testimony of the forgiving

temperament of prelates of the orthodox church. The tomb is covered

with a black pall, indicating that he had been received into the

church as a monk before his death. Horsey states that persons

passing his tomb uttered a prayer that he might never rise again:

to this day, twice yearly, a special mass is celebrated invoking

forgiveness for that "burden of sins voluntary or involuntary known

to themselves or to themselves unknown" committed on earth by those

whose bodies are buried within the church. In a side chapel,

dedicated to the martyred Tsar, are the remains of Michael Skopin

Shooiski, the popular military hero of the "Times of Trouble," and

a bronze shrine covers the remains of Chernigof and his boyard

Theodore, martyred by the Tartars.

_The decorations_ are mural pictures, dry frescoes of portraits of

the Tsars, the best that of Vasili II. habited as a monk: also

illustrations of the Last Judgment, the "Symbol of Faith," and

miracles of the Archangel Michael, which represent Russian

pictorial art of the seventeenth century.

_The sacristy_ contains some very beautiful sacerdotal robes

presented to officiating priests on state occasions; the gems on

the richer _sakkos_ being exceptionally beautiful. There is also an

ornate copy of the gospels brought from Novgorod in 1125; it has

picturesque portraits of the evangelists, and characteristic

illuminated initials; the golden filigree work on the cover is

excellent. A psalter of 1594 has elegant marginal decorations.

There were also rich crosses of gold and silver--the one that

belonged to Ivan IV. with large pearls, best worth

examination--reliquaries, and a curious gold chalice some 7 lbs.

weight. Many will be more interested in the fine needle and jewelry

work on the elaborated palls of which the church has a great many

exquisite specimens.

_The relics_ are not numerous: those which formally belonged to the

Tsar Alexis are within a reliquary of the cross above mentioned:

and a drop of the blood of John the Baptist is shown under a

crystal in one of the ikons.

BLAGOVIESHCHENSKI SOBOR

[Illustration: BLAGOVIESHCHENSKI SOBOR]

The Cathedral of the Annunciation is of a more elaborate and picturesque

style than either the Uspenski or the Archangelski, which, in part, may

be attributed to the fact that it is more intimately connected with the

Royal Palaces than they are. Reached directly by the palace terrace, it

is the complement of the Krasnoe Kriltso, and was used for the baptism

of the royal children, the confessions of the Tsars, and religious

ceremonies of a semi-state character. Its earlier designations were,

among others, the "Church of the Grand-Ducal Court," "Church of the

Tsarian Vestibule," and "Church of the Tsarian Treasury," which clearly

indicate the court uses for which it has been employed. It has nine

cupolas; the roof of pointed vaults rising tier above tier is most

characteristic of Muscovite architecture, and the entrance is by a

flight of steps communicating with a covered gallery which surrounds the

church, see page 178. Its early history is that of the others; first, a

wooden church erected by Andrew in 1291, rebuilt in 1397; in 1409 the

walls decorated with pictures by Rublev; in part demolished by Ivan

III., who built again from the first floor up, and, completed in 1482,

painted during the reign of Vasili Ivanovich; damaged by the fire of

1547 Ivan IV. restored it, and furnished cupolas covered with the gold

he seized at Novgorod. The Poles in 1610 and the French in 1812 both

spoiled it, but the last only partially, the fact that most of its

treasures had been taken away to Vologda probably misleading them so

that they did not make a thorough search for the valuables left within.

During its recent restoration the architect found that earlier

decorations existed beneath the outer coverings of plaster and paint;

they were carefully uncovered and remain exposed.

The entrance is by the northern porch within the railed-off Sobornia

Ploshchad; among the first mural paintings on the right are portraits of

the ancient philosophers, Aristotle, Plato, Ptolemy, Socrates,

Thucydides, Zeno, and others, with lengthy quotations from their

writings on tablets they support; beyond, representations of the Saviour

and the apostles, these pictures dating from 1771, the year of the great

plague. The side posts of the doorways, richly carved, are of early

sixteenth century native work--and some of the best specimens now

extant. The interior of the church is small, and looks even smaller

than it really is owing to an elevated tribune, or gallery, against the

west wall, which served for members of the Tsar's family to participate

in the services without being exposed to public view, the Tsar himself

being on the ground floor, opposite the ikonostas. The parquet is of

Jasper mosaic, a present from the Shah to Alexis. Concerning it, an

enthusiastic, travelled native author remarks: "It is a facsimile of a

mosaic in St Mark's, Venice; the only difference being that whereas the

floor of St Mark's is uneven, to represent the ripples of the sea and

symbolise that Venice rules on the foaming waves, this is quite regular

and uniform, emblematic of the vast steppes of which Moscow is the

sovereign."[D]

[D] This church has the further distinction of being the first

supplied with a public clock, which was placed there by Lazarus

Serbin, in the seventeenth century. About the south porch the last

public discussions were held with dissenters led by the able Pafnuty.

Even more interesting are the old mural paintings, pre-Raphælite in

point of time and in the _argot_ of the studio "more than pre-Raphælite"

in style. The subjects are biblical: the adventures of Jonah; the

mysterious visions recorded in the Apocalypse; the punishment of the

damned; the glories of Paradise, with much else that is curious. They

are already the joy of a "school" and the admiration of Russian

antiquaries. Though crude, unreal, and not a little absurd now, in the

long ago, among the uncultured people to whom they were first presented,

they cannot have failed to impress beholders powerfully, notwithstanding

that their influence upon the art of the time was infinitesimal.

The columns are square, from them hang the chains and jewelled

crosses worn by former princes. The ikonostas is of five stages,

separated by rails of brass and bronze columns--the precious

metals with which it was formerly covered were looted by the

French. The more remarkable ikons are (_a_) one of the Saviour's

agony--a typical specimen of Byzantine work in the fourteenth

century; (_b_) the richly decorated Holy Mother of God, known as

the Donski Virgin, because carried by Dmitri at Kulikovo; the ikon

only was saved, in 1812, the frame was mistaken by the French for

copper and has been repaired; the ornaments are modern, except the

eighteen portraits of saints on the margin, which are foreign.

Near the altar are the two crosses of Korsun. There are four

chapels on the higher storey; they are quite independent of the

church with separate entrances from the gallery. That dedicated to

St George is quite modern, but that of the Virgin has one of the

most primitive rood-screens to be found in Moscow; on it the ikons

are set round with great flat bands of silver; like that of the

Saviour, and that of the archangel Gabriel, it quite escaped

pillage in 1812. The sacristy--in a small building on the south

side--is peculiarly rich in relics, a complete collection of sacred

remains brought from Constantinople in 1328. It includes bones of

different saints--contained in thirty-two silver and gilt caskets;

a reliquary with the sponge used at the Crucifixion of Christ; a

portion of the rod with which He was beaten; some drops of His

blood; spikes from the crown of thorns; an eight pointed cross, of

the wood of the "true cross," and a fragment of the stone that was

rolled away from before the Saviour's tomb. To them must be added a

great number of Russian Tsarian and ecclesiastical antiquities

collected in Russia.

SPASS NA BORU

The church of the Transfiguration, known colloquially as Spass na Boru,

St Saviour's in the Forest, is supposed to be on the site of the first

building ever raised on the Kremlin hill--that of the skeet of the

hermit who inhabited it prior to the tenth century. The first stone

church there dates from 1330; restored in 1380, and rebuilt in 1527, and

again restored in 1529, 1554, 1737, and 1856. Still much of its

architectural primitiveness has been preserved, but it is typical of a

church with monastery attached, as once the case (see page 29). There

are now no external mural paintings, but those inside are curious; the

small, low belfry is very quaint and the bells now hung there are old

foreign bells--among the first brought to Moscow. The central chapel,

that of the Transfiguration, is the oldest, the "Royal Doors" are of

primitive type. Its sacristy is poor: the relics are those of St Stephen

the apostle to the Permians, and some fragments of bones and vestments

found during the alterations in the present century. It is best seen in

the early morning, a service is held daily, and the church is much

visited by those about to marry, for, according to tradition, Sts Yuri,

Samon and Aviva, to whom its side chapels are dedicated, are patrons of

those whose love affairs do not run smooth. On the higher storey is the

chapel of St Stephen the Permian.

PATRIARSHIA RIZNITSA

The Church of the Twelve Apostles and Sacristy of the Patriarchs is on

the site of a fifteenth century church on the north side of the Uspenski

Sobor. It was built by Nikon and is still used in connection with the

synod. It is on the second storey, and above it is the Chapel of St

Philip--the private chapel of the Patriarchs after Nikon. In the rooms

adjoining are kept the Holy vessels, most valuable church plate, and

relics of the patriarchs and the Church. Many are contained in the cases

arranged round the walls, the others may be inspected on application to

one of the attendants--who will expect _adin rubl na chaiu_--or to those

much interested will be shown by the Sacristan, who will explain their

use and relate their history. A complete catalogue may be had, but the

best account is that of the learned antiquarian, Sabas, Bishop of

Mojaisk, whose book is known to all interested in the lore of the

Eastern Church; a French translation of it has been published in which

the author's name is spelled "Savva." Among the more interesting

articles of art workmanship are the panagies or jewelled crosses worn by

the Patriarchs and others after consecration to their high office.

"Among the objects of greatest antiquity are the sacerdotal robes

of the high clergy. They are in the case near the altar; the

'Omophorium of the sixth OEcumenical Council' of the catalogue,

is said to have belonged to St Nicholas the wonder-worker,

Archbishop of Mirliki, and worn by that saint at the Council at

Nice: Sabas thinks that it was presented to Alexis by Gregory of

Nicea who visited Moscow in 1655, with letters from the Patriarchs

of Jerusalem and Constantinople testifying to its genuineness. It

belonged to the Patriarch of Alexandria, who was present at the

Assembly of the Three Hundred and Eighteen Fathers of the Church,

and, latterly, opinion inclines to its having originated with him.

Equally ancient is a mitre, easily recognised from other 'crowns'

in the case by its pointed shape, similar to those of ancient

Byzantium. It was presented to the Tsar Theodore; the donor,

Miletius Piga, of Alexandria, wrote that, apart from the gems with

which it is adorned and the rich material, its age and reputation,

it is to be esteemed above its intrinsic value because taken to the

Council at Ephesus by Cyril, in 431. The mitre of the Patriarch

Job, 1595, differs from those of later date by reason of its very

flat top--the shape of a _klobook_, hat, or ancient crown--rather

than a mitre. The mitres ranged with it were constructed by the

directions of Nikon, and equal in richness and other details the

royal crowns.

"Of croziers and their equivalents there are many specimens, the

most venerated, however, is that of St Peter, by the altar on the

Uspenski Sobor,--_the staff_ that passed from pontiff to pontiff

through the centuries. There are three of the five in the sacristy

of tau shape and beautiful, they belonged to Philaret; the others

to Nikon. The processional cross of Nikon has but four points. Of

copes there are forty-one; the oldest is that of Peter, the

Metropolitan (1322), used afterwards at the consecration of the

Patriarchs. The _panagia_ or pyx worn by a bishop, or higher

prelate, is often an exquisite piece of jewelry. That catalogued as

No. 4 is of onyx, with a superposed layer having the crucifixion

_in relievo_; on the reverse, a Greek cross, the Emperor

Constantine and Helena, his mother. It belonged to the Patriarch

Job and has a most beautiful setting of Russian enamel and niello

work of the sixteenth century. No. 11 is also of onyx, with ruby

and pearl decoration, it appertained to Peter. No. 3. is a sardonyx

of elaborate workmanship and unusual size; it has a reliquary

containing a fragment of the robe of royal purple with which the

Saviour was mockingly invested, and is believed to have been

produced to the order of Ivan IV. to commemorate the birth of

Dmitri. No. 25 contains an emerald of purest water, three-fifths of

an inch in diameter. In another is also a fine emerald which weighs

38 carats. There are in addition jewels, rings, seals, cups,

goblets, crosses, and other trinkets of the fathers of the Russian

Church, and amongst them an object known as the 'Antik,' which has

puzzled the learned. It is a shell of mother-of-pearl, shaped like

a woman's breast, and on this in fine gold, beautifully enamelled,

the Gorgon's head, the fanged heads of the serpent-locks

intertwined and biting each other. It is on a base of rock-crystal,

gold encrusted, and the medallions enamelled with representations

of different buildings--it has figured in the inventory since 1648,

when it had a double case of dark green velvet. The fine collection

of church plate is principally of the seventeenth century and

later.

"In the adjoining Mirovarennaya Palata, the Holy Chrism is prepared

every other year, in strict conformance with the original

instruction. It is, when prepared, taken in sixteen silver phials

to the Uspenski Sobor and then at a special service during Lent

(usually Holy Thursday) consecrated by the Metropolitan, and

further hallowed by the addition of a few drops of the oil from the

vessel of 'Alabaster' in which the Holy Chrism was first brought

into Russia from Constantinople, the vessel having never been

emptied, since the quantity taken for this purpose is immediately

replaced by the addition of that newly made. The 'Alabaster' is a

long-necked flask of copper, wholly covered with scales of

mother-of-pearl, and is supposed to be of the same size and form as

that box of ointment Mary Magdalene offered Jesus.

"The library of the Synod contains about one thousand Slavic MSS.

on Church rites and copies of the scriptures, many between the

seventh and twelfth centuries, and five hundred Greek MSS. of even

earlier date. They were got together by the patriarch Nikon for the

purpose of comparison, and restoring the ritual of the Russian

Church to its original, or at least earlier, rule. The printed

books have mostly been removed to other collections, and the MSS.

are of interest only to those well acquainted with the rites of the

early Christian Church, and such students are readily granted

access to them."

Such a brief account does scant justice to one of the finest and most

complete collections of ecclesiastical furniture the world has produced;

but, interesting as some of the objects are to all beholders, it is to

the student of ecclesiasticism that they will appeal with greatest

force. To him also, the technique of ritual; the customs appertaining to

the dispersion of relics among newly-built churches and restoration of

those injured by time and accident; together with many other matters of

Church rule and procedure which find illustration in this collection,

should prove both attractive and instructive. Of greater general

interest is the story of the struggle between orthodoxy and heterodoxy,

the rise of heresy and states of different forms of dissent; that

dramatic movement of ecclesiasticism which is world wide, continuous,

and of perennial concern to all.

Whatever heresies may have existed in early Russia, with the ascendancy

of Moscow these perished, and the prelates had only to guard against the

wiles of Rome and to stay its power on the confines of the kingdom.

During the reign of Vasili the Blind the unsuccessful attempt of the

Metropolitan Isidor to introduce Romish practices intensified the

conservatism of the prelates. In 1582, Anthony Possevin, a Jesuit

emissary of the Pope, Gregory XIII., had long discussions with Ivan the

Terrible in the Granovitaia Palata respecting the union of the Churches.

Ivan was outspoken: the emissary returned unsatisfied.

The false Dmitri's view has already been given: he was overthrown and

the supremacy of the orthodox prelates increased by Boris Godunov's

initiation of the Patriarchate. The Tsar Michael and his father Philaret

appear to have been always in accord, and then the temporal power of the

prelates was equal to that of the sovereign. Alexis, a boy of seventeen,

was unfortunate in having as collaborator the sturdy Nikon. After his

absence in the war against the Poles he found Nikon, as Veliki Gossudar,

a title reserved for the Tsars, absolutely autocratic. The Tsar objected

to the use of the title by the Patriarch; Nikon resigned his office, and

retired to the Vosskresenki Monastery on the Varvarka, expecting Alexis

would seek him, but the Tsar did not visit him nor did he appoint

another patriarch. Nikon had already given great offence to the clergy

for, attracted by some text on one of the ecclesiastical vestments that

had been received from Greece, he recognised a considerable difference

between the Greek rendering and that current in Slavonic; prosecuting

his investigations further he found many discrepancies and tried in all

things to revert to the older practice. His action was construed as the

introduction of new procedure--and consequently vigorously opposed--and

orthodoxy split into two camps; those who agreed with the head of the

Church that the ancient practice was correct and should be introduced

and the more conservative who would not depart from that to which they

had been accustomed, and it is they who are known as the "Old

Believers," for the alterations proposed by Nikon ultimately became

general. Although the Patriarch had resigned he continued to receive the

clergy and concern himself with the direction of ecclesiastical affairs.

In 1654 he angered the people by going into private chapels and houses

and removing all copies of the ikon Nerukotvorenni, "not made with

hands," because unlike the ikons of Mount Athos. The priest visited

Moscow, and the people paraded the empty ikon cases and the defaced

ikons, attributing to this outrage the plague from which so many

suffered, and the clergy then left Moscow in large numbers fearing

assault. In 1659 the Tsar's emissaries informed him that he ought no

longer to interfere. He thereupon withdrew from Moscow. In Advent 1664

he suddenly reappeared with many monks at early matins in the Uspenski

Cathedral, peremptorily ordered the officiating clergy to perform

certain offices. The clergy at once apprised the Tsar, who in turn

ordered his boyards to command Nikon to leave the Cathedral. Nikon

pleaded that he had been instructed by Jonas in a vision to act as he

had done, but the Tsar only repeated the command; he stated then that he

had power to heal the sick, but the Tsar was inflexible and Nikon

retired. At a council in 1666 he was formally deposed, and withdrew to a

distant monastery where he continued his researches; he was pardoned by

the Tsar Theodore in 1681 but died whilst on his journey to meet his

sovereign.

Joachim, the succeeding Patriarch, opposed Nikon's innovations, and held

tenaciously to the customary practice and attempted to stifle schism by

persecuting relentlessly. He forbade Catholics to worship, banished

Jesuits, barely tolerated Calvinists and Lutherans, and burned to death

Kullman the German mystic for proclaiming false doctrines. When he died

in 1690 he besought Peter to drive all heretics and unbelievers from

Russia--it is to him that Peter erected the chapel on the Srietenka. As

in 1682 and earlier, the "old believers" had been cruelly tortured for

not conforming to the innovations of Nikon, more especially the

unfortunate and obstinate Boyarina Morozov and her sister Princess

Urusov, so with the change of the head of the Church the people were

condemned for such acts as they had previously been commended for

performing, and now knew not whom to believe. With the accession of

Peter to sole power, and the enforcement by him of practices foreign to

former habit, the people associated all his innovations with those

purely clerical ones which had recently met with opposition and caused

persecution and suffering. It was impossible to stamp out opposition,

exile but spread the discontent. When Peter quarrelled with the Church,

the clergy were unable to cope with the popular reaction against the

innovations of Nikon and his disciples. Peter was at last induced to

persecute the noncontents, but these, disgusted with his secular

innovations, fled into distant parts of the country and even abroad,

where for long they were politically an element of grave danger to the

state, but, the rule of Nikon was established and the old believers

regarded as Raskolniki, or dissenters.

These, under persecution, and lacking adequate direction again split

into two sections; one, the popovtsi, or those who acknowledge the

priesthood and depend for their clergy upon schismatics from among the

orthodox, who after ordination, find their practice preferable.

They are quite insignificant in comparison with the Bezpopovtsi, or

those who do not have ordained priests, but are more powerful because

united, whereas the bezpopovtsi number as many different brotherhoods as

there are distinct dissenting sects in England. The best known among

these are the _Dukhobortsi_, who deny the divinity of the Holy Ghost,

strongly oppose civil authority, refuse to pray for their sovereign or

the head of the orthodox church, and consider death by starvation or

fire, so long as it is self-wrought, to be the highest duty. Nearly akin

to them are the terrible _Skoptsi_ or mutilators, and the fanatic

_Khlysti_, or Flagellants, and many others. To the orthodox church all

who are not _slavopravni_ are alike. The civil government has always

discriminated between the harmless and those whose tenets are opposed to

the welfare of the individual and to the commonwealth.

The orthodox regard the discussion as terminated: the Tsaritsa Sophia

herself was present in the Granovitaia Palace, at the discussions of the

Patriarch with the chief of the Ras Kolniks, a fanatic Nikita. There

were stormy scenes; at the close each sect claimed to have the right,

and for long afterwards there were frequent discussions between the

supporters of both parties, around the porch of the Blagovieshchenski

Sobor.

[Illustration: CHURCH AND GATE OF MARY OF VLADIMIR]

Of the churches of the orthodox, the number in Moscow is indeed great;

add to these the cathedrals, the new Xram, chapels, monasteries and

convents, and the claim of Moscow to its title of City of Churches will

not be questioned. It is quite impossible even to enumerate those worth

seeing. Instead take a typical street, say the Nikolskaya in the busiest

part of the commercial Kitai-Gorod. It contains the Monastery of the

Images, Za-ikono-spassky Monastyr--once, 1679, an academy; Church of the

Virgin of Kazan, interesting as founded in 1630 by Prince Pojarski; the

Nikolævski Monastyr, Greek, founded in 1556, and in 1669, with two

churches; opposite it the old Monastery of the Epiphany, Bogoyavlenni,

founded in 1396, with a church to Boris and Gleb and several others of

lesser note--a large establishment with an extensive cemetery but the

buildings of course modern. The Synodalia Typografiia; the printing

house of the Synod, founded in 1645, the façade always painted a light

blue, with the lion and unicorn, and other Byzantine decorations, in

white. Then near the Vladimirski Vorot, the church to the Virgin, dating

from the time of the boy-Tsars, Ivan and Peter, and opposite the second

largest monastery, and most often used church in the Kitai gorod, that

of the Trinity. In all eleven churches or chapels within less than 200

yards--and that is characteristic of Moscow. Among other tserkvi well

worth seeing are:--

_Kitai-Gorod._ In the Varvarka: St Barb, St George the Martyr, St

Maxim the Confessor, and the Monastery of the Resurrection. In the

Ilyinka: St Nicholas of the Great Cross, St Elias. Also the Holy

Trinity in the Cherkassky, St Anne in the Zariadi, and of the

Virgin of Georgia, but St Ipatius is in the Ipatievski, and St

Nicholas near the Moskvretski Bridge.

_Bielo-Gorod._ The Srietenka, built by John Taylor; All Saints, the

Transfiguration, and the Manifestation.

The story of Moscow · 第 9 / 15 章