IX

George Mallory did something better than lend me books, and that

was to take me climbing on Snowdon in the school vacations. I knew

Snowdon very well from a distance, from my bedroom window at Harlech.

In the spring its snow cap was the sentimental glory of the landscape.

The first time I went with George to Snowdon we stayed at the Snowdon

Ranger Hotel at Quellyn Lake. It was January and the mountain was

covered with snow. We did little rock-climbing, but went up some good

snow slopes with rope and ice-axe. I remember one climb the objective

of which was the summit; we found the hotel there with its roof blown

off in the blizzard of the previous night. We sat by the cairn and

ate Carlsbad plums and liver-sausage sandwiches. Geoffrey Keynes, the

editor of the _Nonesuch Blake_, was there; he and George, who used to

go drunk with excitement at the end of his climbs, picked stones off

the cairn and shied them at the chimney stack of the hotel until they

had sent it where the roof was.

George was one of the three or four best climbers in climbing history.

His first season in the Alps had been spectacular; nobody had expected

him to survive it. He never lost his almost foolhardy daring; yet

he knew all that there was to be known about climbing technique.

One always felt absolutely safe with him on the rope. George went

through the war as a lieutenant in the artillery, but his nerves were

apparently unaffected—on his leaves he went rock-climbing.

When the war ended he was more in love with the mountains than ever.

His death on Mount Everest came five years later. No one knows whether

he and Irvine actually made the last five hundred yards of the

climb or whether they turned back or what happened; but anyone who

had climbed with George felt convinced that he did get to the summit,

that he rejoiced in his accustomed way and had not sufficient reserve

of strength left for the descent. I do not think that it was ever

mentioned in the newspaper account of his death that George originally

took to climbing when he was a scholar at Winchester as a corrective to

his weak heart.

George was wasted at Charterhouse, where, in my time at least, he was

generally despised by the boys because he was neither a disciplinarian

nor interested in cricket or football. He tried to treat his classes

in a friendly way and that puzzled and offended them. There was a

tradition in the school of concealed warfare between the boys and the

masters. It was considered no shame to cheat, to lie, or to deceive

where a master was concerned; yet to do the same to a member of the

school was immoral. George was also unpopular with the house-masters

because he refused to accept this state of war and fraternized with the

boys whenever he could. When two house-masters who had been unfriendly

to him happened to die within a short time of each other he joked to

me: ‘See, Robert, how mine enemies flee before my face.’ I always

called him by his Christian name, and so did three or four more of his

friends in the school. This lack of dignity in him put him beyond the

pale both with the boys and the masters. Eventually the falseness of

his position told on his temper; yet he always managed to find four

or five boys in the school who were, like him, out of their element,

and befriended them and made life tolerable for them. Before the final

Everest expedition he had decided to resign and do educational work at

Cambridge with, I believe, the Workers’ Educational Association. He

was tired of trying to teach gentlemen to be gentlemen.

I spent a season with George and a large number of climbers at the

hotel at Pen-y-Pass on Snowdon in the spring of 1914. This time it

was real precipice-climbing, and I was lucky enough to climb with

George, with H. E. L. Porter, a renowned technician of climbing, with

Kitty O’Brien and with Conor O’Brien, her brother, who afterwards

made a famous voyage round the world in a twenty-ton or five-ton or

some even-less-ton boat. Conor climbed principally, he told us, as a

corrective to bad nerves. He used to get very excited when any slight

hitch occurred; his voice would rise to a scream. Kitty used to chide

him: ‘Ach, Conor, dear, have a bit of wit,’ and Conor would apologize.

Conor, being a sailor, used to climb in bare feet. Often in climbing

one has to support the entire weight of one’s body on a couple of

toes—but toes in stiff boots. Conor said that he could force his naked

toes farther into crevices than a boot would go.

But the most honoured climber there was Geoffrey Young. Geoffrey had

been climbing for a number of years and was president of the Climbers’

Club. I was told that his four closest friends had all at different

times been killed climbing; this was a comment on the extraordinary

care with which he always climbed. It was not merely shown in his

preparations for a climb—the careful examination, foot by foot, of the

alpine rope, the attention to his boot-nails and the balanced loading

of his knapsack—but also in his cautiousness in the climbing itself.

Before making any move he thought it out foot by foot, as though it

were a problem in chess. If the next handhold happened to be just a

little out of his reach or the next foothold seemed at all unsteady

he would stop and think of some way round the difficulty. George used

sometimes to get impatient, but Geoffrey refused to be hurried. He

was short, which put him at a disadvantage in the matter of reach. He

was not as double-jointed and prehensile as Porter or as magnificent

as George, but he was the perfect climber. And still remains so. This

in spite of having lost a leg while serving with a Red Cross unit on

the Italian front. He climbs with an artificial leg. He has recently

published the only satisfactory text-book on rock-climbing. I was very

proud to be on a rope with Geoffrey Young. He said once: ‘Robert, you

have the finest natural balance that I have ever seen in a climber.’

This compliment pleased me far more than if the Poet Laureate had told

me that I had the finest sense of rhythm that he had ever met in a

young poet.

It is quite true that I have a good balance; once, in Switzerland, it

saved me from a broken leg or legs. My mother took us there in the

Christmas holidays of 1913–14, ostensibly for winter sports, but really

because she thought that she owed it to my sisters to give them a

chance to meet nice young men of means. About the third day that I put

on skis I went up from Champéry, where we were staying and the snow was

too soft, to Morgins, a thousand feet higher, where it was like sugar.

Here I found an ice-run for skeleton-toboggans. Without considering

that skis have no purchase on ice at all, I launched myself down it.

After a few yards my speed increased alarmingly and I suddenly realized

what I was in for. There were several sharp turns in the run protected

by high banks, and I had to trust entirely to body-balance in swerving

round them. I reached the terminus still upright and had my eyes damned

by a frightened sports-club official for having endangered my life

on his territory.

In an essay on climbing that I wrote at the time, I said it was a

sport that made all others seem trivial. ‘New climbs or new variations

of old climbs are not made in a competitive spirit, but only because

it is satisfactory to stand somewhere on the earth’s surface where

nobody else has stood before. And it is good to be alone with a

specially chosen band of people—people that one can trust completely.

Rock-climbing is one of the most dangerous sports possible, unless one

keeps to the rules; but if one does keep to the rules it is reasonably

safe. With physical fitness in every member of the climbing team, a

careful watch on the weather, proper overhauling of climbing apparatus,

and with no hurry, anxiety or stunting, climbing is much safer than

fox-hunting. In hunting there are uncontrollable factors, such as

hidden wire, holes in which a horse may stumble, caprice or vice in

the horse. The climber trusts entirely to his own feet, legs, hands,

shoulders, sense of balance, judgment of distance.’

The first climb on which I was taken was up Crib-y-ddysgel. It was a

test climb for beginners. About fifty feet up from the scree, a height

that is really more frightening than five hundred, because death is

almost as certain and much more immediate, there was a long sloping

shelf of rock, about the length of an ordinary room, to be crossed from

right to left. It was without handholds or footholds worth speaking of

and too steep to stand upright or kneel on without slipping. It shelved

at an angle of, I suppose, forty-five or fifty degrees. The accepted

way to cross it was by rolling in an upright position and trusting to

friction as a maintaining force. Once I got across this shelf without

disaster I felt that the rest of the climb was easy. The climb was

called The Gambit. Robert Trevelyan, the poet, was given this test in

the previous season, I was told, and had been unlucky enough to fall

off. He was pulled up short, of course, after a few feet by the rope

of the leader, who was well belayed; but the experience disgusted him

with climbing and he spent the rest of his time on the mountains just

walking about.

♦ “Crib-y-ddysgel” replaced with “Crib-y-ddysgl”

Belaying means making fast on a projection of rock a loop of the rope

which is wound round one’s waist, and so disposing the weight of the

body that, if the climber above or below happens to slip and fall, the

belay will hold and the whole party will not go down together. Alpine

rope has a breaking point of a third its own length. Only one member of

the climbing team is moving at any given time, the others are belayed.

Sometimes on a precipice it is necessary to move up fifty or sixty

feet before finding a secure belay as a point from which to start the

next upward movement, so that if the leader falls and is unable to put

on a brake in any way he must fall more than twice that length before

being pulled up. On the same day I was taken on a spectacular though

not unusually difficult climb on Crib Goch. At one point we traversed

round a knife-edge buttress. From this knife-edge a pillar-like bit of

rock, technically known as a monolith, had split away. We scrambled up

the monolith, which overhung the valley with a clear five hundred feet

drop, and each in turn stood on the top and balanced. The next thing

was to make a long, careful stride from the top of the monolith to the

rock face; here there was a ledge just wide enough to take the toe of

a boot, and a handhold at convenient height to give an easy pull-up to

the next ledge. I remember George shouting down from above: ‘Be careful

of that foothold, Robert. Don’t chip the edge off or the climb will

be impossible for anyone who wants to do it again. It’s got to last

another five hundred years at least.’

I was only in danger once. I was climbing with Porter on an

out-of-the-way part of the mountain. The climb, known as the Ribbon

Track and Girdle Traverse, had not been attempted for about ten years.

About half-way up we came to a chimney. A chimney is a vertical fissure

in the rock wide enough to admit the body; a crack is only wide enough

to admit the boot. One works up a chimney sideways with back and knees,

but up a crack with one’s face to the rock. Porter was leading and

fifty feet above me in the chimney. In making a spring to a handhold

slightly out of reach he dislodged a pile of stones that had been

wedged in the chimney. They rattled down and one rather bigger than a

cricket ball struck me on the head and knocked me out. Fortunately I

was well belayed and Porter was already in safety. The rope held me up;

I recovered my senses a few seconds later and was able to continue.

The practice of Pen-y-Pass was to have a leisurely breakfast and lie in

the sun with a tankard of beer before starting for the precipice foot

in the late morning. Snowdon was a perfect mountain for climbing. The

rock was sound and not slippery. And once you came to the top of any

of the precipices, some of which were a thousand feet high, but all

just climbable one way or another, there was always an easy way to run

down. In the evening when we got back to the hotel we lay and stewed in

hot baths. I remember wondering at my body—the worn fingernails, the

bruised knees, and the lump of climbing muscle that had begun to bunch

above the arch of the foot, seeing it as beautiful in relation to this

new purpose. My worst climb was on Lliwedd, the most formidable of

the precipices, when at a point that needed most concentration a raven

circled round the party in great sweeps. This was curiously unsettling,

because one climbs only up and down, or left and right, and the raven

was suggesting all the diverse possibilities of movement, tempting us

to let go our hold and join him.

X

I was at Harlech when war was declared; I decided to enlist a day

or two later. In the first place, though only a very short war was

expected—two or three months at the very outside—I thought that it

might last just long enough to delay my going to Oxford in October,

which I dreaded. I did not work out the possibilities of being actively

engaged in the war. I thought that it would mean garrison service

at home while the regular forces were away. In the second place, I

entirely believed that France and England had been drawn into a war

which they had never contemplated and for which they were entirely

unprepared. It never occurred to me that newspapers and statesmen

could lie. I forgot my pacifism—I was ready to believe the worst

of the Germans. I was outraged to read of the cynical violation of

Belgian neutrality. I wrote a poem promising vengeance for Louvain.

I discounted perhaps twenty per cent, of the atrocity details as

war-time exaggeration. That was not, of course, enough. Recently I

saw the following contemporary newspaper cuttings quoted somewhere in

chronological sequence:

‘When the fall of Antwerp got known the church bells were rung’

(_i.e._ at Cologne and elsewhere in Germany).—_Kölnische Zeitung_.

‘According to the _Kölnische Zeitung_, the clergy of Antwerp were

compelled to ring the church bells when the fortress was taken.’—_Le

Matin_ (Paris.)

‘According to what _The Times_ has heard from Cologne, via

Paris, the unfortunate Belgian priests who refused to ring the

church bells when Antwerp was taken have been sentenced to hard

labour.’—_Carriere della Sera_ (Milan.)

‘According to information to the _Carriere della Sera_ from Cologne,

via London, it is confirmed that the barbaric conquerors of Antwerp

punished the unfortunate Belgian priests for their heroic refusal to

ring the church bells by hanging them as living clappers to the bells

with their heads down.’—_Le Matin_ (Paris.)

When I was in the trenches a few months later I happened to belong to a

company mess in which four of us young officers out of five had, by a

coincidence, either German mothers or naturalized German fathers. One

of them said: ‘Of course I’m glad I joined when I did. If I’d put it

off for a month or two they’d have accused me of being a German spy.

As it is I have an uncle interned at Alexandra Palace, and my father’s

only been allowed to retain the membership of his golf club because

he has two sons in the trenches.’ I said: ‘Well, I have three or four

uncles sitting somewhere opposite, and a number of cousins too. One of

my uncles is a general. But that’s all right. I don’t brag about them.

I only advertise the uncle who is a British admiral commanding at the

Nore.’

Among my enemy relatives was my cousin Conrad, who was the same age

as myself, and the son of the German consul at Zurich. In January

1914 I had gone ski-ing with him between the trees in the woods above

the city. We had tobogganed together down the Dolderstrasse in Zurich

itself, where the lampposts were all sandbagged and family toboggans,

skidding broadside on at the turns, were often crashed into by

single-seater skeletons; arms and legs were broken by the score and the

crowds thought it a great joke. Conrad served with a crack Bavarian

regiment all through the war, and won the ‘Pour le Mérite’ Order, which

was more rarely awarded than the British Victoria Cross. He was killed

by the Bolsheviks after the war in a village on the Baltic where he

had been sent to make requisitions. He was a gentle, proud creature,

whose chief interest was natural history. He used to spend hours in the

woods studying the habits of wild animals; he felt strongly against

shooting them. Perhaps the most outstanding military feat was that of

an uncle who was dug out at the age of sixty or so as a lieutenant in

the Bavarian artillery. My youngest brother met him a year or two ago

and happened to mention that he was going to visit Rheims. My uncle

nudged him: ‘Have a look at the cathedral. I was there with my battery

in the war. One day the divisional general came up to me and said:

“Lieutenant, I understand that you are a Lutheran, not a Catholic?”

I said that this was so. Then he said: “I have a very disagreeable

service for you to perform, Lieutenant. Those misbegotten swine, the

French, are using the cathedral for an observation post. They think

they can get away with it because it’s Rheims Cathedral, but this is

war and they have our trenches taped from there. So I call upon you

to dislodge them.” I only needed to fire two rounds and down came the

pinnacle and the Frenchmen with it. It was a very neat bit of shooting.

I was proud to have limited the damage like that. Really, you must go

and have a look at it.’

The nearest regimental depot was at Wrexham: the Royal Welch Fusiliers.

The Harlech golf secretary suggested my taking a commission instead

of enlisting. He rang up the adjutant and said that I was a

public-school boy who had been in the Officers’ Training Corps at

Charterhouse. So the adjutant said: ‘Send him right along,’ and on 11th

August I started my training. I immediately became a hero to my family.

My mother, who said to me: ‘My race has gone mad,’ regarded my going as

a religious act; my father was proud that I had ‘done the right thing.’

I even recovered, for a time, the respect of my uncle, C. L. Graves, of

_The Spectator_ and _Punch_, with whom I had recently had a tiff. He

had given me a sovereign tip two terms previously and I had written my

thanks, saying that with it I had bought Samuel Butler’s _Note Books_,

_The Way of All Flesh_ and the two _Erewhons_. To my surprise this had

infuriated him.

The fellows who applied for commissions at the same time as myself

were for the most part boys who had recently failed to pass into the

Royal Military College at Sandhurst, and were trying to get into the

regular army by the old militia door—which was now known as the Special

Reserve. There were only one or two fellows who had gone into the army,

like myself, for the sake of the war and not for the sake of a career.

There were about a dozen of us recruit officers on the Square learning

to drill and be drilled. My Officers’ Training Corps experience made

this part easy, but I knew nothing about army traditions and made all

the worst mistakes; saluting the bandmaster, failing to recognize the

colonel when in mufti, walking in the street without a belt and talking

shop in the mess. But I soon learned to conform. My greatest difficulty

was to talk to men of the company to which I was posted with the

necessary air of authority. Many of them were old soldiers re-enlisted,

and I disliked bluffing that I knew more than they did. There were one

or two very old soldiers employed on the depot staff, wearing the

ribbon of Burma, 1885, and of even earlier campaigns, and usually also

the ribbon of the ‘Rooti’ or good service medal awarded for eighteen

years of undetected crime. There was one old fellow called Jackie

Barrett, a Kipling character, of whom it was said: ‘There goes Jackie

Barrett. He and his mucking-in chum deserted the regiment in Quetta and

went across the north-west frontier on foot. Three months later he gave

himself up as a deserter to the British consul at Jerusalem. He buried

his chum by the way.’

I was on the square only about three weeks before being sent off on

detachment duty to Lancaster to a newly-formed internment camp for

enemy aliens. The camp was a disused wagon-works near the river, a

dirty, draughty place, littered with old scrap-metal and guarded with

high barbed-wire fences. There were about three thousand prisoners

already there and more and more piled in every day; seamen arrested on

German vessels in Liverpool harbour, waiters from big hotels in the

north, an odd German band or two, harmless German commercial travellers

and shopkeepers. The prisoners were resentful at being interned,

particularly those who were married and had families and had lived

peaceably in England for years. The only comfort that we could give was

that they were safer inside than out; anti-German feeling was running

high, shops with German names were continually being raided and even

German women were made to feel that they were personally responsible

for the Belgian atrocities. Besides, we said, if they were in Germany

they would be forced into the army. At this time we made a boast of

our voluntary system. We did not know that there would come a time

when these internees would be bitterly envied by forcibly-enlisted

Englishmen because they were safe until the war ended.

In the summer of 1915 _The Times_ reprinted in the daily column,

_Through German Eyes_, a German newspaper account by Herr Wolff, an

exchanged prisoner, of his experiences at Lancaster in 1914. _The

Times_ found very amusing Herr Wolff’s allegations that he and forty

other waiters from the Midland Hotel, Manchester, had been arrested

and taken, handcuffed _and fettered_, in special railway carriages to

Lancaster under the escort of fifty Manchester policemen armed with

carbines. But it was true, because I was the officer who took them over

from the chief inspector. He was a fine figure in frogged uniform and

gave me a splendid salute. I signed him a receipt for his prisoners and

he gave me another salute. He had done his job well and was proud of

it. The only mishap was the accidental breaking of two carriage windows

by the slung carbines. Wolff also said that even children were interned

in the camp. This was true. There were a dozen or so little boys from

the German bands who had been interned because it seemed more humane to

keep them with their friends than to send them to a workhouse. Their

safety in the camp caused the commandant great concern.

I had a detachment of fifty Special Reservists, most of them with only

about six weeks’ service. They had joined the army just before war

started as a cheap way of getting a holiday at the training camp; to

find themselves forced to continue beyond the usual fortnight annoyed

them. They were a rough lot, Welshmen from the border counties, and

were constantly deserting and having to be fetched back by the police.

They made nervous sentries, and were probably more frightened of the

prisoners than the prisoners were of them. Going the round of sentries

on a dark night about 2 a.m. was dangerous. Very often my lantern used

to blow out and I would fumble to light it again in the dark and

hear the frightened voice of a sentry roar out, ‘Halt! Who goes there?’

and know that he was standing with his rifle aimed and his magazine

charged with five live rounds. I used to gasp out the password just

in time. Rifles were often being fired off at shadows. The prisoners

were a rowdy lot; the sailors particularly were always fighting. I saw

a prisoner spitting out teeth and blood one morning. I asked him what

was wrong. ‘Oh, sir, one no-good friend give me one clap on the chops.’

Frequent deputations were sent to complain of the dullness of the food;

it was the same ration food that was served to the troops. But after

a while they realized the war and settled down to sullen docility;

they started hobbies and glee parties and games and plans for escape.

I had far more trouble with my men. They were always breaking out of

their quarters. I could never find out how they did it. I watched all

the possible exits, but caught no one. Finally I discovered that they

used to crawl out through a sewer. They boasted of their successes with

the women. Private Kirby said to me: ‘Do you know, sir? On the Sunday

after we arrived, all the preachers in Lancaster took as their text,

“Mothers, take care of your daughters; the Royal Welch have come to

town.”’

The camp staff consisted of:

A fatherly colonel of the Loyal North Lancashire Regiment, the

commandant.

His secretary, by name C. B. Gull, one of the best-known pre-war

figures in Oxford, owner of the _Isis_, and combined divinity,

athletics and boxing coach. We used to box together to keep fit. He

also sponsored me as a candidate for the local lodge of The Royal

Antediluvian Order of Buffaloes. The Grand Marshal who officiated at

my initiation had drank four or five pints of ‘bitter-gatter’ and

a glass or two of ‘juniper’ (these were secret words) and continually

short-circuited in the ritual. He kept on returning to the part where

they intone:

Grand Marshal: Spirit of true Buffaloism hover around I us!

Response: Benevolence and joy ever attend us!

The assistant-commandant, who alleged that he had ten years more

seniority than any other major in the British army and made wistful

jokes about his lost virility. His recurrent theme was: ‘If you only

knew how much that would mean to an old man like me.’

The adjutant, an East Lancashire lieutenant, by name Deane. The day

after war was declared a German armed cruiser had held up the neutral

liner in which he was sailing home from the Cape and taken him off. He

was forced to give his parole not to fight against Germany in the war.

The cruiser was subsequently sunk by a British ship, the _Highflyer_,

and Deane was rescued; but the signed parole was saved by the German

captain, who escaped in a boat and gave it in charge of the German

consul at Las Palmas. So Deane was forbidden the trenches, and when I

met him in 1917 he was a staff-colonel.

A doctor who was the mess buffoon. I broke the scabbard of my sword on

his back one night.

The interpreter, a Thomas Cook man who could speak every European

language but Basque. He admitted to a weakness in Lithuanian, and when

asked what his own nationality was would answer, ‘I am Wagon-Lits.’

I had an inconvenient accident. The telephone bell was constantly going

from Western Command Headquarters; it was installed in an office-room

where I slept on a sloping desk. One night Pack-Saddle (the

code-name for the Chief Supply Officer of the Western Command) rang

up shortly after midnight with orders for the commandant. They were

about the rationing of a batch of four hundred prisoners who were

being sent up to him from Chester and North Wales. I was half asleep

and not clever at the use of the telephone. In the middle of the

conversation, which was difficult because a storm was going on at the

time and Pack-Saddle was irritable, the line was, I suppose, struck by

lightning somewhere. I got a bad electric shock, and was unable to use

a telephone properly again until some twelve years later.

Guarding prisoners seemed an unheroic part to be playing in the

war, which had now reached a critical stage; I wanted to be abroad

fighting. My training had been interrupted, and I knew that even when

I was recalled from detachment duty I would have to wait a month or

two at least before being sent out. When I got back to the depot in

October I found myself stale. The adjutant, a keen soldier, decided

that there were two things wrong with me. First of all, I dressed

badly. I had apparently gone to the wrong tailor, and had also had a

soldier-servant palmed off on me who was no good. He did not polish

my buttons and shine my belt and boots as he should have done, and

neglected me generally; as I had never had a valet before I did not

know how to manage him or what to expect of him. The adjutant finally

summoned me to the Orderly Room and threatened that he would not send

me to France until I had entirely overhauled my wardrobe and looked

more like a soldier. My company commander, he said, had reported me to

him as ‘unsoldierlike and a nuisance.’ This put me in a fix, because my

pay only just covered the mess bills, and I knew that I could not ask

my parents to buy me another outfit so soon after I had assured

them that I had everything necessary. The adjutant next decided that

I was not a sportsman. This was because on the day that the Grand

National (I think) was run all the young officers applied for leave

to see the race except myself, and I volunteered to take the job of

Orderly Officer of the Day for someone who wanted to go.

I saw my contemporaries one by one being sent out to France to take

the place of casualties in the First and Second Battalions, while I

remained despondently at the depot. But once more boxing was useful.

Johnny Basham, a sergeant in the regiment, was training at the time

for his fight (which he won) with Boswell for the Lonsdale Belt,

welter-weight. I went down to the training camp one evening, where

Basham was offering to fight three rounds with any member of the

regiment, the more the merrier. One of the officers put on the gloves

and Basham got roars of laughter from the crowd as soon as he had taken

his opponent’s measure, by dodging about and playing the fool with

him. I asked Basham’s manager if I could have a go. He gave me a pair

of shorts and I stepped into the ring. I pretended that I knew nothing

about boxing. I led off with my right and moved about clumsily. Basham

saw a chance of getting another laugh; he dropped his guard and danced

about with a you-can’t-hit-me challenge. I caught him off his balance

and knocked him across the ring. He recovered and went for me, but I

managed to keep on my feet; I laughed at him and he laughed too. We had

three very brisk rounds, and he was decent in making it seem that I

was a much better boxer than I was by accommodating his pace to mine.

As soon as the adjutant heard the story he rang me up at my billet

and told me that he was very pleased to hear of my performance,

that for an officer to box like that was a great encouragement to the

men, that he was mistaken about my sportsmanship, and that to show his

appreciation he had put me down for a draft to go to France in a week’s

time.

Of the officers who had been sent out before me several had already

been killed or wounded. Among the killed was Second-Lieutenant W. G.

Gladstone, whom we called Glad Eyes. He was in his early thirties; a

grandson of old Gladstone, whom he resembled in feature, a Liberal

M.P., and lord-lieutenant of his county. When war was hanging in the

balance he had declared himself against it. His Hawarden tenantry were

ashamed on his account, and threatened, he told us, to duck him in

the pond. Realizing, once war was declared, that further protest was

useless, he immediately joined the regiment as a second-lieutenant. His

political convictions remained. He was a man of great integrity and

refused to take the non-combative employment as a staff-colonel offered

him at Whitehall. When he went to France to the First Battalion he

took no care of himself. He was killed by a sniper when unnecessarily

exposing himself. His body was brought home for a military funeral at

Hawarden; I attended it.

I have one or two random memories of this training period at Wrexham.

The landlord of my billet was a Welsh solicitor, who greatly

overcharged us while pretending amicability. He wore a wig—or, to

be more exact, he had three wigs, with hair of progressive lengths.

When he had worn the medium-sized hair for a few days he would put on

the wig with long hair, and say that, dear him, it was time to get a

hair-cut. Then he would go out of the house and in a public lavatory

perhaps or a wayside copse would change into the short-haired wig,

which he wore until it was time to change to the medium one again.

This deception was only discovered when one of the officers billeted

with me got drunk and raided his bedroom. This officer, whose name

was Williams, was an extreme example of the sly border Welshman. The

drunker he got the more shocking his confessions. He told me one day

about a girl he had got engaged to in Dublin, and even slept with

on the strength of a diamond engagement ring. ‘Only paste really,’

he said. The day before the wedding she had had a foot cut off by a

Dalkey tram, and he had hurriedly left the city. ‘But, Graves, she was

a lovely, lovely girl before that happened.’ He had been a medical

student at Trinity College, Dublin. Whenever he went to Chester, the

nearest town, to pick up a prostitute, he not only used to appeal to

her patriotism to charge him nothing, but he always gave her my name.

I knew of this because these women used to write to me. One day I said

to him in mess: ‘In future you are going to be distinguished from all

the other Williams’ in the regiment by being called Dirty Williams.’

The name stuck. By one shift or another he escaped all trench-service

except for a short spell in a quiet sector, and lasted the war out

safely.

Private Robinson. He was from Anglesey, and had joined the Special

Reserve before the war for his health. In September the entire

battalion volunteered for service overseas except Robinson. He said he

would not go, and that he could be neither coaxed nor bullied. Finally

he was brought before the colonel, who was genuinely puzzled at his

obstinacy. Robinson explained that he was not afraid. ‘I have a wife

and pigs at home.’ The battalion was, in September, rigged out in a

temporary navy-blue uniform until khaki might be available. All but

Robinson. They decided to shame him. So he continued, by order, to

wear the peace-time scarlet tunic and blue trousers with a red stripe;

a very dirty scarlet tunic (they had put him on the kitchen staff). His

mates called him Cock Robin and sang a popular chorus at him:

And I never get a knock

When the boys call Cock

Cockity ock, cock,

Cock Robin!

In my old red vest I mean to cut a shine....

But Robinson did not care:

For the more they call me Robin Redbreast

I’ll wear it longer still.

I will wear a red waistcoat, I will,

I will, I will, I will, I will, I will![1]

So in October he was discharged as medically unfit: ‘Of under-developed

intelligence, unlikely to be of service in His Majesty’s Forces,’

and went home to his wife and pigs. While, of the singers, those who

survived Festubert in the following May did not survive Loos in the

following September.

Recruit officers spent a good deal of their time at Company and

Battalion Orderly Room, learning how to deal with crime. Crime,

of course, meant any breach of army regulations; and there was plenty

of it. In these days Battalion Orderly Room would last four or five

hours every day, at the rate of one crime dealt with every three or

four minutes.; This was apart from the scores of less serious offences

tried by company commanders. The usual Battalion Orderly Room crimes

were desertion, refusing to obey an order, using obscene language to a

non-commissioned officer, drunk and disorderly, robbing a comrade, and

so on. On pay-nights there was hardly a man sober; and no attention was

paid so long as there was silence as soon as the company officer came

on his rounds just before Lights Out. (Two years later serious crime

had diminished to a twentieth of that amount, though the battalion was

treble its original strength, and though many of the cases that the

company officers had dealt with summarily now came before the colonel;

and there was practically no drunkenness.)

There was a boy called Taylor in my company. He had been at Lancaster,

and I had bought him a piccolo to play when the detachment went out

on route-marches; he would give us one tune after another for mile

after mile. The other fellows carried his pack and rifle. At Wrexham,

on pay-nights, he used to sit in the company billet, which was a

drill-hall near the station, and play jigs for the drunks to dance to.

He never drank himself. The music was slow at first, but he gradually

quickened it until he worked them into a frenzy. He would delay this

climax until my arrival with the company orderly-sergeant. The sergeant

would fling open the door and bellow: ‘F Company, Attention!’ Taylor

would break off, thrust the piccolo under his blankets, and spring to

his feet. The drunks were left frozen in the middle of their capers,

blinking stupidly.

In the first Battalion Orderly Room that I attended I was

surprised to hear a private soldier charged with a nursery offence,

about the committal of which expert evidence was given and heard

without a smile. I have an accurate record of the trial but my

publishers advise me not to give it here.

Orderly Room always embarrassed and dispirited me. I never got used to

it even after sentencing thousands of men myself. There was something

shameful about it. The only change that the introduction of the

civilian element into the army brought was that about half-way through

the war an army order came out that henceforth the word of command was

to be ‘Accused and escort, right turn, quick march,’ etc., instead of

‘Prisoner and escort, right turn, quick march, etc.’ It was only very

seldom that an interesting case came up. Even the obscene language,

always quoted verbatim, was drearily the same; the only variation I

remember from the four stock words was in the case of a man charged

with using threatening and obscene language to an N.C.O. The man had,

it appeared, said to a lance-corporal who had a down on him: ‘Corporal

Smith, two men shall meet before two mountains.’ Humour only came from

the very Welsh Welshmen from the hills who had an imperfect command of

English. One of them, charged with being absent off ceremonial parade

and using obscene language to the sergeant, became very indignant in

Orderly Room and cried out to the colonel: ‘Colonel, sir, sergeant tole

me wass I for guard; I axed him no, and now the bloody bastard says

wass I.’

The greatest number of simultaneous charges that I ever heard preferred

against a soldier was in the case of Boy Jones at Liverpool in 1917.

He was charged with, first, using obscene language to the bandmaster;

the bandmaster, who was squeamish, reported it as: ‘Sir, he called

me a double effing c——.’ Next, with breaking out of the detention that

was awarded for this crime. Third, with ‘absenting himself from the

regiment until apprehended in the Hindenburg Line, France.’ Fourth,

with resisting an escort. Fifth, with being found in possession of

regimental property of the Cheshire Regiment. Boy Jones, who was only

fourteen and looked thirteen, had wriggled through the bars of his

detention-cell and, after getting a few things together at his hut, had

gone to Liverpool Exchange Station to wait for a victim. The victim was

a private in a Bantam Battalion just returning to France from leave.

He treated the bantam to a lot of drink and robbed him of his rifle,

equipment, badges and papers. He then went off in his place. Arrived

in France he was posted to the Bantam Battalion; but this did not suit

him. He wanted to be with his own regiment. He deserted the Bantams,

who were somewhere north of Arras, and walked south along the trenches

looking for his regiment, having now resumed his proper badges. After a

couple of days’ walk he found the Second Battalion and reported and was

immediately sent home, though he had a struggle with the escort at the

railhead. The punishment for all these offences was ten days confined

to camp and a spanking from the bandmaster.

The most unusual charge was against the regimental goat-major (a

corporal); it was first framed as _Lese majesty_, but this was later

reduced to ‘disrespect to an officer: in that he, at Wrexham—on such

and such a date—did prostitute the Royal Goat, being the gift of

His Majesty the Colonel-in-Chief from His royal herd at Windsor, by

offering his stud-services to ——, Esq., farmer and goat breeder, of

Wrexham.’ The goat-major pleaded that he had done this out of

kindness to the goat, to which he was much attached. He was reduced to

the ranks and the charge of the goat given to another.

The regular battalions of the regiment, though officered mainly by

Anglo-Welshmen of county families, did not normally contain more than

about one Welshman in fifty in the ranks. They were mainly recruited

in Birmingham. The only man at Harlech besides myself who had joined

the regiment at the start was a poor boy, a golf-caddie, who had got

into trouble a short time before for shoplifting. The chapels held

soldiering to be sinful, and in Merioneth the chapels were supreme.

Prayers were offered for me in the chapels, not because of the dangers

I ran in the war, but because I was in the army. Later, Lloyd George

persuaded the chapels that the war was a crusade. So there was a sudden

tremendous influx of Welshmen from North Wales. They were difficult

soldiers; they particularly resented having to stand still while the

N.C.O.’s swore at them. A deputation of North Welshmen came to me once

and said: ‘Captain Graves, sir, we do not like our sergeant-major; he

do curse and he do swear, and he do drink, and he is a maan of lowly

origin, too.’

At Wrexham we learned regimental history, drill, musketry, Boer War

field-tactics, military law and organization, how to recognize bugle

calls, how to work a machine-gun, and how to conduct ourselves as

officers on formal occasions. We dug no trenches, handled no bombs and

came to think of the company, not of the platoon, still less of the

section, as the smallest independent tactical unit. There were only

two wounded officers back from the front at the time; both had left

the Second Battalion on the retreat from Mons. Neither would talk much

of his experiences. All that one of them, Emu Jones, would tell

us was: ‘The first queer sight I saw in France was three naked women

hanging by their feet in a butcher’s shop.’ The other would say: ‘The

shells knock hell out of a man, especially the big black ones. Just

hell. And that fellow Emu; he wasn’t any good. We marched and marched

and he had a weak heart and used to faint and expect his poor, bloody

platoon to carry him as well as the rest of their load. We used to

swear he was shamming. Don’t believe what old Emu tells you of the

retreat.’

Good-bye to all that · 第 27 / 77 题