is performed by a circular-saw, which cuts the wood into pieces of a
proper thickness. By a second machine the holes for the pins are bored,
and they are formed into perfect circles by means of a crown-saw. The
third, called the coaking-machine, is an admirable specimen of
mechanical ingenuity. By its operation, a small cutter drills out round
the pin-hole--to a certain depth from the flat surface of the
sheave--three semicircular grooves, for the reception of the metal coak,
or bush, which sustains the friction of the pin. So truly are those
grooves formed, that the slight tap of a hammer is sufficient to fix the
coak in its place. The fourth operation consists in casting the coaks.
By a fifth, after being fitted in the grooves, holes are drilled in the
coaks, for the reception of the pins which fasten them to the sheaves;
and by a sixth the pins are rivetted. By the seventh operation, the
central hole in the coak for the pin, on which the sheave turns, is
drilled out. By the eighth, the groove for the rope is turned round the
circumference of the sheave, and its sides polished. In the ninth, the
iron pins, on which the sheaves revolve, are cast, turned, and polished;
and on their being inserted, the block is complete and ready for use.
[Illustration: VIEW FROM THE SALUTING PLATFORM, PORTSMOUTH.]
PORTSMOUTH.
VIEW FROM THE SALUTING PLATFORM.
The correctness of this view will be immediately recognised by every
person in the least acquainted with Portsmouth. The platform, from which
it is taken, forms the grand promenade of the inhabitants, and is
usually the first place visited by strangers, on account of the prospect
which is thence obtained. Immediately in front of the engraving is seen
the northern extremity of the platform, on which are two soldiers, who
seem indulging themselves with a leisurely inhalation of the fresh
breeze from the water, after having liberally expended a portion of
their own breath in sounding their bugles at parade. Beyond the
platform, the most conspicuous object is the Government Semaphore, with
three flags displayed as a signal; and to the left, the landing-place
called the King's Stairs. Beyond the old round tower is seen the
flag-ship of the Port Admiral; and, between her and the gun-brig which
is running in, a distant view is obtained of the Town Hall of Gosport.
Portsmouth, one of our greatest naval depots, is situated near the
south-western extremity of the island of Portsea, in the county of
Hampshire, and is about seventy miles S.S.W. of London. Adjoining to it,
on the northward, is the town of Portsea; and to the south-east, without
the walls, lies the suburb of Southsea. The three places may be
considered as forming one large town, under the general name of
Portsmouth, the aggregate population of which is about 50,000. The
population of Gosport, which lies to the westward of Portsmouth, on the
opposite side of the harbour, is, with that of the adjacent hamlet of
Stoke, about 12,000. The docks and naval storehouses are within the
precinct of Portsea; the hospital and the victualling establishment are
at Gosport; and the offices of the Port Admiral and the residence of the
Lieutenant-Governor are at Portsmouth, within the lines of which are
also the barracks for the accommodation of the garrison. Portsmouth is
strongly fortified by a circuit of bastions and a moat, which enclose
the town on the landside, and which are connected with a similar line,
extending in a semi-circular form round the landside of Portsea. In the
event of a siege, it would require 14,000 men to form an efficient
garrison for the united towns. The situation of Portsmouth is low and
marshy; and the peculiar smell which arises from the mud at low water,
and from the moat, may be perceived at the distance of two or three
miles, in approaching the town from the northward.
The principal church at Portsmouth stands in St. Thomas'-street, and
nearly in the centre of the town. It is dedicated to St. Thomas a
Becket, and was erected between 1210 and 1220, by Peter de Rupibus,
Bishop of Winchester. The transept and the chancel are the only parts
which remain of the original structure, the nave and side-aisles having
been rebuilt in 1692. At the same time the old tower, which formerly
stood above the intersection of the transepts and the nave, was taken
down, and the present one erected at the western entrance. It is
surmounted with a cupola, and its height is about 120 feet.
With the exception of the older parts of St. Thomas' Church, which
afford one or two good specimens of the Gothic style, Portsmouth
contains but little in the shape of architectural antiquities that is
likely to attract the notice of the stranger. The building, above which
the Semaphore is erected, near the northern extremity of the saluting
platform, was, in former times, the residence of the governor of the
town. Previous to the suppression of the monasteries and religious
houses, it belonged to a Domus Dei, or hospital, which was founded in
1238. A part of the church of this hospital is yet standing at a short
distance to the south-east of the Semaphore, and near to the grand
parade. It is now the garrison chapel; and against its walls are placed
numerous monuments erected to the memory of officers, both naval and
military, who have died in the service of their country.
"A tomb is theirs on every page,
An epitaph on every tongue;
The present hour, the future age,
For them bewail, to them belong.
For them the voice of festal mirth
Grows hushed,--their name the only sound;
While deep remembrance pours to worth
The goblet's tributary round.
A theme to crowds who knew them not,
Lamented by admiring foes;
Who would not share their glorious lot!
Who would not die the death they chose!"[10]
[10] Lines by Lord Byron "On the Death of Sir Peter Parker."
[Illustration: GOSPORT, FLAG SHIP SALUTING.]
GOSPORT.
Gosport, of which our engraving represents a view, is a small, but
important town, adjoining Portsmouth, from which it is separated by a
wide channel, forming part of the extensive basin known as Portsmouth
Harbour, and containing a large number of our "wooden walls;" some in a
condition ready to put to sea at a few hours' notice, others lying in
ordinary, as it is termed, that is, without rigging, sails, or other
fittings requisite to render them complete and efficient for service,
but which are speedily provided when required. Portsmouth, Gosport, and
the neighbouring towns--including Portsea and Landport--form one
extensive fortified position, protected at every point from the attacks
of an enemy; they are enclosed by broad earthworks, along the extent of
which are mounted heavy guns, commanding the various drawbridges which
cross the moat surrounding the works. At a short distance from the town
is a large range of barracks for the marines, capable of accommodating
upwards of a thousand men--a portion of the building, including the
house of the commandant, has but recently been completed. Near this is a
new prison, devoted entirely to military occupation; it is a substantial
building of red brick, and well adapted for the accommodation of its
inmates consistent with its character as a penal establishment.
Close to the harbour, and within the fortifications, is an immense pile
of imposing appearance, called the Clarence Victualling-yard; the most
interesting feature of which is, the admirable but simple
steam-machinery employed in making biscuits for the navy. In the
precincts of this immense depository are also included a cooperage,
brewhouse, and slaughterhouse, which supply the navy with the stores
requisite for their various destinations, including wines and spirits,
of which a large stock is constantly kept here. The quay at which her
Majesty embarks for her private residence, Osborne House, in the Isle of
Wight, is situated in this yard, which is connected with the main line
of the South-Western Railway, by a small branch running from the
terminus, devoted solely to the use of her Majesty and the Lords of the
Admiralty. There are two churches in the town, St. Mathew's, near the
entrance to the Clarence-yard, and Trinity; the former consists entirely
of free sittings, the latter is a chapel of ease to the parish church,
situated at Alverstoke, a small village, at a distance of little more
than a mile from the town. There are also a Catholic chapel, two
Wesleyan chapels, and two Congregational chapels in the town.
Of late years the neighbourhood of Gosport has much improved; many
handsome and commodious villas, and other residences, having been
erected at various times. Anglesea, which adjoins Alverstoke, is quite a
new neighbourhood, and has but recently come into existence, consisting
principally of residences for the gentry during the summer months. The
town of Ryde, in the Isle of Wight, is situated opposite to this spot,
and between them lies the Solent, which at times is enlivened by the
appearance of some ships of war lying at anchor, and frequently of large
fleets of merchant ships detained here from stress of weather, or
waiting a favourable wind to convey them to their respective
destinations. At the mouth of the harbour, on the Gosport side, is
situated Blockhouse Fort, opposite to a similar one on the Portsmouth
side, embrasured with heavy guns for protecting the entrance to the
harbour, which is approached only by a circuitous channel, commanded on
the one side by the guns of Southsea Castle, and on the other by those
of Fort Monckton, at a short distance from which has recently been
erected another fort, to protect the entrance to the Southampton Water.
Adjoining Blockhouse Fort are barracks for the Royal Artillery, and at
Fort Monckton, barracks for infantry. Near the latter is Haslar
Hospital, devoted to the reception of sick members of the navy and
marines; it is a handsome quadrangular building of red brick, and
affords accommodation for a large number of patients; within its walls
are included a church, and a Museum of Natural History, which is well
supplied with specimens, and to which additions are being continually
made by the officers and gentlemen connected with the service. At the
foot of the High-street, Gosport, is the landing-place for passengers by
the steam ferry, or floating bridge, as it is called, which plies
between Gosport and Portsmouth every half-hour, and forms the only means
of communication for carriages and vehicles of all kinds. In addition to
the steam ferry is a staff of watermen, busily plying their calling
during the absence of the bridge, and securing the stray passengers that
may prefer their mode of transport, or have arrived too late for the
other conveyance. During certain states of the weather, the danger and
difficulty of managing their boats entitle the watermen to increased
fares, which are indicated by certain coloured flags hoisted
conspicuously over the town hall, near the beach, and regulated by a
person appointed by the licensing magistrates. The climate of this part
is healthy, and well adapted for persons with weak lungs, or affections
to which a cold, keen, air would be unfavourable.
[Illustration: MEN OF WAR AT SPITHEAD.]
MEN-OF-WAR AT SPITHEAD.
In this Engraving (a vignette) is presented a stern-view of a
seventy-four, with her guess-warp booms[11] out, moored at Spithead. To
the right is a victualling hoy, dropping alongside of the seventy-four;
and in the distance is seen a first-rate. The time is evening, which
invests the whole scene with its calm. We may conclude that the day has
been fine, as both ships seem to have availed themselves of the
opportunity thus afforded of "drying hammocks;" they are seen suspended
from their yards and between their masts.
The roadstead of Spithead, which is sufficiently large to afford
convenient anchorage for nearly all the ships of the British navy, lies
between Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight; and the usual place in which
ships of war ride is about three miles distant from Portsmouth harbour.
It derives its name from the _Spit_, or end of a sand bank, extending
from the western shore of the estuary towards Southsea Castle, about a
mile below Portsmouth. The channel for the harbour, from Spithead, is
comparatively narrow, and is commanded by the batteries at Southsea
Castle. To the westward of Spithead is the sand called the Motherbank,
on the edge of which merchantmen generally anchor; and to the
north-eastward are St. Helen's roads, a frequent rendezvous as well for
ships of war as for vessels in the merchant service. All these
roadsteads are protected from southerly winds by the high land of the
Isle of Wight.
Within the last few years considerable interest has been excited by the
attempts which have been made to raise the guns, and various other
articles, belonging to the Royal George, which sank at Spithead on 29th
August, 1782. This ship carried 108 guns, and was considered one of the
finest in the navy, had just returned from sea, and, as she had made
more water than usual for some time before, it was at first intended
that she should go into dock. The surveying officers, however, having
discovered that the leak was not very far below the water-line, it was
resolved to repair the defect, with a view to saving time, by giving the
ship a heel as she lay at her moorings at Spithead. On subsequent
examination, it was found that a pipe which supplied the water for
washing the decks required to be replaced, and, as it lay considerably
below the water-line, it became necessary to give her a greater heel
than had been at first contemplated. For the purpose of effecting this,
some of her guns and part of her ballast were removed to the opposite
side. As the ship lay thus considerably inclined on her side, she, from
some cause that has not been clearly ascertained, gave an additional
heel, and the water rushing in through her lower-deck ports, which had
been carelessly left open, she almost instantly filled and sank,
carrying down with her a victualling hoy that was lying alongside. At
the time of the accident there were nearly twelve hundred persons on
board, of which number about nine hundred, including two hundred and
fifty women, were drowned. Among the sufferers were Admiral Kempenfelt
and several of the officers. About three hundred persons, chiefly
belonging to the ship's crew, were saved. Admiral Sir P. Durham, at that
time one of the lieutenants of the Royal George, was on board when the
accident happened, and saved himself by swimming to the shore.
Mr. Kingstone, of the Portsmouth dockyard, who went down to the wreck in
a diving-bell in 1817, gives the following account of its appearance at
that time:--"The quarter-deck, forecastle, and roundhead, with the
larboard topside as low down as the range of the upper deck, are
entirely gone. The oak-strakes and midships of the flat of the upper
deck are much decayed by worms in several places so as to show the beams
and framing beneath. The whole of the fir appears as sound as when first
laid. The deck is much twisted, from the ship's falling so much fore and
aft. The wreck has a beautiful appearance when viewed about a fathom
above the deck, being covered with small weeds, interspersed with
shells, star-fish, and a species of polypus, lying on a thin, greasy,
grey sediment. All below the deck is a perfect solid of fine black mud;
and, when suspended over the larboard side, she appears a rude mass of
timber lying in all directions."
During the summer of 1853, Spithead was the scene of a grand marine
review and sham fight. Her Majesty and Prince Albert were present, with
a numerous suite of naval officers. The nautical skill displayed on the
occasion received the highest encomiums from those best qualified to
judge of its value; and the merit of the screw propeller, as attached to
vessels of war, was strikingly manifested.
[11] The guess-warp booms are the spars suspended at right angles from a
ship's side, to which the boats are made fast when she is moored.
[Illustration: BRIGHTON.
_SUSSEX._]
BRIGHTON.
Brighton is in the county of Sussex, and lies about fifty-two miles
south of London. The old name of the town was Brighthelmstone, which
some antiquaries suppose to have been derived from Brighthelm, a Saxon
bishop; while others suppose that it may be derived from the Saxon
_beorht_, _briht_, _berht_, and _byrt_, signifying _bright_; _heal_, a
light-house or watch-tower, a corner or point of a wedge, a hall; and
the word _tun_, or _ton_, signifying a town.
The name, spelled Bristelmstune, occurs in Doomsday-book. Three manors
are described under this name, and they all appear to have been formerly
in the possession of Earl Godwin, the father of King Harold. Brighton,
or Brighthelmstone, until it began to be frequented as a watering-place,
about the middle of the last century, is seldom noticed by historians;
and until that period it never appears to have risen above the condition
of a small fishing town. In 1313, John de Warren, then lord of the
manor, obtained a charter to have a market at Brighthelmstone every
Thursday; and in 1513 the place was pillaged by the French. In the reign
of Henry VIII. a block-house was erected at Brighton; and this defence
appears to have been either rebuilt or further strengthened in 1558.
About 1750, Brighton, which was then recovering from the depressed state
in which it had been for upwards of a century, began to be visited
during the summer as a bathing-place. In 1782, the Duke of Cumberland,
brother to George III., when residing at Brighton, received a visit from
the Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV., and his royal highness was
so much pleased with the place, that he determined to build for himself
a marine residence there. The Pavilion was accordingly commenced in
1784; but from the alterations and additions which the royal owner was
almost constantly making, it would be difficult to say when it was
finished. On the decease of George IV., the Pavilion became the property
of his successor, William IV., from whom it has descended to her present
Majesty, who, disapproving of it as a marine residence, it was allowed
to fall into decay, and was ultimately purchased from the crown by the
corporation for upwards of L50,000. It is now open to the public for a
small fee, and the larger rooms are occasionally used for balls,
concerts, and public meetings. The grounds are at all times available as
promenades; and, whatever the architect may say of its merits, there can
be no doubt that the edifice adds one to the many attractions of
Brighton, and forms a favourite lounge for the visitors in weather which
will not permit of recreation in the open air.
The Chain Pier is within a few minutes' walk of the Pavilion: it is
constructed upon the suspension principle; the chains are supported by
four pairs of towers, placed at a distance of nearly two hundred feet
apart. It terminates in a circular platform furnished with an awning and
seats, for the convenience of those who are desirous of inhaling the
invigorating breeze from so advantageous a position; commanding, as it
does, not only a prospect of the entire bay, but also an excellent view
of the town. The expense of its erection was about L30,000; but it has,
on several occasions, suffered from tempests, to which its great length
and exposed position render it at all times peculiarly liable, yet the
public spirit and liberality of the inhabitants have on each occasion
speedily repaired the damage.
There is, perhaps, not another watering-place in the kingdom which can
exhibit so imposing a front to the ocean. For an extent of nearly three
miles Brighton displays a continuous line of handsome buildings,
interspersed with squares, crescents, and terraces--all commanding views
of the sea. The district of Kemp Town, at the eastern extremity of this
line, deserves especial notice. Many of its mansions comprise all the
luxuries and conveniences of the metropolis, with the sanitary
advantages of marine villas; leaving nothing to be desired by the most
fastidious taste, and affording accommodation for large establishments
conducted upon a scale befitting the highest ranks of our aristocracy.
The proximity of Brighton to London, the short time in which the transit
between the towns is accomplished--less than two hours, and the numerous
trains which run during the day, give it at all times a decided
advantage over other sea-bathing towns on the south coast, and make a
popular excursion for those whom business or taste confines to the
capital, and who cannot enjoy a lengthened stay at the coast.
The high grounds on the land side of Brighton afford unusual facilities
for horse and carriage drives, and thus agreeably diversify the
amusements of the day--an opportunity of which the inhabitants and
visitors freely avail themselves. Of the bathing accommodations we have
left ourselves no room to speak; but we may say they are of the highest
character, replete with every convenience, and on a scale becoming a
town of sixty thousand permanent residents.
[Illustration: HASTINGS.]
HASTINGS.
The town of Hastings is situated on the coast of Sussex, about
sixty-four miles S.S.E. of London. It has been supposed that the place
was so called from Hastings, a Danish pirate, "who, where he landed for
booty, built sometimes little fortresses; as we read, in Asserius
Menevensis, of Beamflote Castle built by him in Essex, and of others at
Appledore and Middleton in Kent"[12]. This conjecture, however, does not
appear to be well founded; for there can be little doubt of the place
having been called Hastings about the year 780, in the reign of King
Offa, whereas Hastings, the pirate, did not invade England till about
880, in the reign of Alfred the Great. "Some there are," says Camden,
"who ridiculously derive the name from the English word _haste_;
because, as Matthew Paris writes, 'apud Hastings ligneum _agiliter_
castrum statuit Gulielmus Conquestor'--at Hastings William the Conqueror
_hastily_ set up a fortress of timber." Truly, as old Fuller might have
said, there has been more _haste_ than speed in the endeavour to provide
this place with a godfather.
It is said that the old Saxon town of Hastings stood considerably to the
southward of the present one, and that it was destroyed by the
incursions of the sea previous to the Conquest. The town, however, would
appear to have been in a short time rebuilt; for William the Conqueror,
soon after landing at Pevensey, marched to Hastings, from whence he
advanced about eight miles into the country, where he encountered the
English army under Harold, at the place since called Battle, in
commemoration of the event.
Hastings, though not the oldest, is considered to hold the first rank
among the ancient maritime boroughs called the Cinque Ports, which were
originally instituted for the defence of the coast, and endowed with
special privileges on condition of supplying a certain number of ships
and mariners for that purpose. Dover, Sandwich, and Romney are
considered the oldest of the Cinque Ports, as they are the only ones
which are mentioned in Domesday as privileged ports. Hastings and Hythe
are supposed to have been added by William the Conqueror; and the number
being thus increased to _five_, occasioned the community to be called
the _Cinque_ Ports. Although Winchelsea and Rye, which had previously
been members of Hastings, were constituted principal ports at some
period between the Conquest and the reign of King John, the name of
_Cinque_ Ports still continued to be given to the community. The Cinque
Ports are governed by a lord warden, who is also governor of Dover
Castle. A certain number of persons (called Barons) deputed from the
Cinque Ports, have the privilege of supporting the canopies above the
king and queen at coronations.
There was formerly a pier at Hastings, at which vessels could unload;
but it was destroyed in a violent storm, about the commencement of the
reign of Queen Elizabeth, and never rebuilt. From the remains of this
pier, which are still to be seen at low water, it appears to have run
out in a south-eastern direction from the centre of the Marine Parade,
below where the fort now stands. The fort, in a great measure, answers
the purpose of a breakwater in resisting the waves, which in high tides,
accompanied with a strong wind from the seaward, would otherwise be
likely to do serious damage to the lower part of the town.