ancient and venerable structure,--the foundation of which was among the
earliest of those primitive temples which marked the triumphant progress
of Christianity on the British soil. It is understood to have been
founded by St. Daniel, at the commencement of the sixth century, and
bears the sainted name of the founder. The choir was built by Bishop
Deane, in or about 1496, and is used only for the cathedral service. The
nave, built by Bishop Skivington in 1532, is fitted up as a parish
church; and in one of the transepts the service is read in the Welsh
tongue.
The free school,--founded in 1557 by Dr. Glynn, brother of the bishop of
that name,--five daily schools within the parish, the central National
school, four Sunday-schools, and almshouses, give a most favourable
impression of the religious and civil advantages enjoyed by the
inhabitants of Bangor, who evince a spirit and zeal worthy of those
blessings which, in comparison with other and far more populous towns,
place them in so enviable a position.
The principal export is the product of the slate-quarries, which is
conveyed on a railway from Llandegai, six miles distant, to port
Penrhyn, at the egress of the river Cegid into the Menai. This port is
now capable of receiving vessels of large burden. It is nine hundred
feet in length, and in all respects well adapted for the trading-craft
which here take in their cargoes. The slates are of all dimensions, from
large tombstone slabs down to the smallest size for roofing. For
cyphering-slates, inkstands, and other fancy articles, there is a
manufactory near the port. At a short distance is a handsome building
containing hot and cold sea-water baths, with rooms for dressing and
refreshment. The construction of this establishment, with its terrace
and other appurtenances, is said to have cost the late Lord Penrhyn
thirty thousand pounds. In the straits of Menai there is a good fishery,
near Garth Ferry. There is a weekly market every Friday; and fairs are
held in April, June, September, and October. No stranger should neglect
to visit Penrhyn Castle, one of the finest baronial mansions in
Europe.
[Illustration: BEAUMARIS.]
BEAUMARIS,
ANGLESEA.
"I have stood gazing on Snowdon and Plinlimmon, the vale of Clwyd,
the straits of Menai--lake, river, sea, and land--till they seemed
of themselves to say, Stranger, well mayst thou gaze! we merit
thine admiration--we are of GOD!"
Beaumaris is finely situated on the picturesque banks of the Menai,
where it opens into the bay, and presents many attractions derived from
its historical monuments, its natural advantages, and modern
improvements. As the principal town in the island and county of
Anglesea, it has long been a place of fashionable resort, and being at
the same time the borough and market-town, it is a scene of considerable
activity, cheerfulness, and animation. It is in general well built;
particularly one street, the houses of which are large and commodious,
and of superior design and execution. Of the original wall by which it
was once enclosed, considerable portions still remain--sufficient to
demonstrate, by their massive strength and durability, the iron
features, and the no less iron policy of feudal times. The
castle--erected by Edward the First, and now an imposing ruin close to
the town--covers a large space of ground, but stands too low to produce
that effect upon the spectator which it would have done had it, like so
many of its cotemporaries, occupied an isolated and commanding position.
It is surrounded by a deep fosse, with an entrance between two embattled
walls on the east, with round and square towers. The gate opens into a
spacious court, measuring fifty-seven yards by sixty, with four square
towers, and an advanced-work on the east, called the Gunner's Walk.
Within these was the keep--the body of the castle--nearly square, having
a round tower at each angle, and another in the centre of each facade.
The area forms an irregular octagon, of the dimensions above named. In
the middle of the north side is the hall, twenty yards long by twelve
broad, with two round towers, and several others about the inner and
outer walls, built of a bluish stone intermixed with square stones,
which produce a rather novel and pleasing effect.
There appears to have been originally a communication round the whole
buildings of the inner court by means of a gallery two yards broad, and
which still remains nearly entire. In various recesses in different
parts of the sides of this gallery are square apertures, which appear
to have had trap-doors or openings into a dungeon beneath. The two
eastern towers served also as dungeons, with a dark and narrow descent
to each--sufficiently characteristic of the dark and despotic purposes
to which they were applied. On the east side of this building are the
remains of a very small chapel, arched and ribbed with painting and
intersecting arches; also some Gothic pilasters and narrow lancet-headed
windows, and various compartments, with closets constructed--after the
manner of those times--in the centre of the massive walls.
When Edward the First built the town, and erected it into a corporation,
he endowed it at the same time with various lands and privileges of
considerable value, in order to secure more firmly his possessions in
the island, and changed its name from Bonover to Beaumaris, in allusion,
it is supposed, to its low but pleasant situation. He caused also a
canal to be cut, in order that vessels might be brought up close under
the battlements to discharge their cargoes, as the iron mooring-rings
affixed to the walls clearly indicate.
The church, which forms a prominent feature in the picture of Beaumaris,
is a spacious and very elegant structure, having a lofty square tower,
visible at a great distance, and presenting in all its proportions and
compartments a fine specimen of ecclesiastical architecture. The other
public buildings consist of the county-hall, the town-hall, the
free-school, and the custom-house; each possessing, in an eminent
degree, every ornament and accommodation befitting buildings of their
class and destination. The view from the green commands a striking
prospect of the most interesting portion of the Menai Strait, bounded in
the distance by the Caernarvon mountains, which gradually overtop each
other till they unite in the majestic Snowdon, whose summit--now belted
with clouds, and now glittering in the sunshine--asserts his claim to
undivided empire as "Sovran" of the British Alps.
With respect to trade, Beaumaris can hardly be said to enjoy any
exclusive advantages: the vessels belonging to the port are generally
hired by neighbouring merchants and others, who have trading connexions
with Liverpool and other ports on the English and Irish sides of the
Channel. The bay, though not spacious, is safe and commodious, and
affords shelter and good anchorage for vessels that take refuge here in
tempestuous weather. The town has a weekly market on Wednesdays, and
three annual cattle fairs in February, September, and December. During
the season it is much resorted to as bathing-quarters, and has
everything to recommend it as a summer residence. A steam-boat plies
regularly between this and Liverpool, thereby affording every facility
to visitors, and presenting in the passage a rich succession of
beautiful, picturesque, and sublime scenery, which successively invites
and fascinates the eye of the spectator.
[Illustration: HOLYHEAD.]
HOLYHEAD.
Holyhead is familiar to every reader as the favourite point of
rendezvous for all who are on their way to the Irish capital. By the
admirable arrangements of the Post-office, and the sure and
swift-sailing packets that are here in regular attendance, a passage
across the Channel is now a matter of as much certainty, as to time, as
that of the mail from London. The perfect order and the surprising
expedition with which passengers and despatches may thus be forwarded to
and from Dublin are the general theme of admiration amongst foreigners,
and a means of vast accommodation to our own commercial houses. During a
long series of years the improvement of Holyhead has engaged the special
attention of Government; every suggestion, entitled to the approbation
of skilful and experienced engineers, has been liberally carried into
effect: so that in the present day it seems hardly possible that any
packet-station can offer greater facilities for all the purposes of
Government, or for the interests of social and commercial intercourse,
than Holyhead. The steam-vessels which carry the daily mails are of the
best possible construction, commanded by experienced naval officers, and
affording excellent accommodation for the passengers who are constantly
passing to and fro between the British and Irish shores.
The harbour of Holyhead is shaped by the natural cliffs which overhang
the sea, on the verge of which stand the ancient sanctuary of the place
and its cemetery. The foundation of this church--originally a small
monastery--dates from the close of the fourth century: it was long
afterwards remodelled into a college of presbyters by one of the Lords
of Anglesey; and, after undergoing many alterations suitable to the
varying taste of the ages through which it has passed, it assumed its
present appearance--that of an embattled edifice built in the shape of a
cross.
Under the Head--the mountain from which the harbour takes its name, and
which overshadows the town--are two rocky eminences nearly opposite the
church, both of which are crowned with ruins which carry the mind far
back among the bright days of Cambrian independence. In the rock is a
wide and lofty cavern, supported by natural columns, on which tradition
has conferred the title of the Parliament-house; and it is not to be
denied that patriotic legislators have been often worse accommodated.
This curiosity requires to be visited in a boat. On the highest point
stands an uncemented circular stone wall, about ten feet in
circumference, which is conjectured to have served as a _pharos_ in
ancient times; for this coast has a perilous celebrity attached to it,
and no vessel could safely approach the haven by night without a warning
signal of this kind.
The pier of Holyhead is admirably constructed. It is built on a small
island north of the harbour, called Inys-halen, and combines in an
eminent degree the requisites of security and accommodation in a work of
such importance to the interests of trade. The foundation was laid in
1809, under fortunate auspices; and the grand object, which had been so
long and anxiously cherished, was happily accomplished, under the able
direction of Mr. Rennie, within a comparatively short period. It has a
depth of four fathoms water, so that vessels of heavy burden can ride at
anchor in perfect safety. At the extremity is a lighthouse, finely
proportioned, substantially built, and highly ornamental as well as
useful to the pier and harbour.
The pier extends a thousand feet in length; and close adjoining to it
are the Custom-house, with several respectable family houses, among
which are those for the harbour-master and resident engineers. The
lighthouse contains twenty lamps and reflectors, at an elevation of more
than fifty feet above the sea, and exhibiting in every direction a
steady blaze of light. At the present time, works for improving and
enlarging the harbour are proceeding on a very extensive scale, and bid
fair, upon completion, to render Holyhead one of the first harbours of
the United Kingdom.
[Illustration: BRIDGE TO THE SOUTH STACK LIGHTHOUSE.
(near Holyhead.)]
THE SOUTHSTACK LIGHTHOUSE,
HOLYHEAD.
"Approaching it from the water, its singular aspect, its wild site
and deserted air--the lighthouse towering seventy feet in
height--the neat, comfortable dwellings close under its guardian
wing--the sounds of life and industry mingled with the lashing of
the sea--and the cry of innumerable birds, ever circling above and
around--were altogether of so unwonted a character, that, had I
been transported to the antipodes, I could not have felt more
unfeigned surprise."--ROSCOE.
Few objects on the British coast excite more individual interest than
the subject of this illustration. The singularity of its position, the
difficulties which attended its erection, the grand objects of humanity
to which it has been made subservient, are all calculated to interest
the heart, and afford scope for the imagination.
The Southstack islet is about thirty yards from the rock known as the
Head; and on this the lighthouse was erected in 1809, under the
direction of Captain Evans, of the Royal Navy. Its form is that of a
round tower, the foundation of which is a hundred and forty feet, and
the light two hundred feet above the sea--so that it embraces within its
sphere the whole bay of Caernarvon. The approach by water to this
remarkable sanctuary of human life is well calculated to make a lasting
impression upon every visitor, and should never be omitted where a
favourable opportunity is presented by the state of the weather. It is
here that the extremes of natural desolation and human industry are
brought into juxtaposition; where human enterprise has established an
asylum amidst the ruins of nature, the war of waves, the wreck of
tempests, to shed the "light of hope" over the heart of many a
despairing mariner.
Happily for the cause of humanity, vast efforts have been made, and are
continually making, to diminish where they cannot entirely remove the
dangers which have so long invested our native coast; and it is
impossible to calculate the number of lives and the amount of
merchandise which have thus been saved from imminent destruction. Much,
however, still remains to be effected--much that is really
practicable--and it is earnestly to be desired that the attention of
Government should be constantly directed to those points on which the
science of the engineer can be most beneficially employed. Holyhead in
particular is still susceptible of vast improvements; and with the
addition of a capacious outer harbour, sufficient to admit
merchant-vessels and others of larger size than those now frequenting
the port, it would speedily realize all that could be wished for by
those most interested in the welfare of the place, and in the prosperity
of trade. This is also a subject well deserving of attention on the part
of the Admiralty; for, with proper accommodation, her Majesty's ships,
in the event of a war, might be advantageously stationed at this port,
so as to secure free intercourse, and serve as a protection to the
coast, which is now in a defenceless condition and open to any attempt
at hostile aggression. We are happy that this question has received the
consideration of her Majesty's Government; and feel assured that the
steps which are now making towards the accomplishment of so great a
desideratum will ensure the grateful approbation of the public, and the
increased prosperity of Holyhead.
The Southstack, as already mentioned, is cut off from the promontory by
a deep chasm thirty yards in width, through which the sea roars and
boils with great force and impetuosity. To cross this formidable ravine
an oriental rope-bridge was formerly employed, that is--a sliding basket
was attached to the cable, which was secured at either side of the
abyss; the passenger entered the basket, and by the ingenious working of
lateral pulleys it was sent off or hauled in, according to the arrival
or departure of visitors. This hempen apparatus was replaced in 1827 by
a handsome suspension-bridge, on the same principles as that over the
Menai. It was suggested by the intelligent veteran already mentioned,
Captain Evans, and has answered every purpose contemplated in its
erection. The roadway is five feet in width, and its height above
high-water mark is about seventy feet. The airy span of this bridge is
highly graceful and picturesque, and adds greatly to the interest of the
picture. On the rock, close under the walls of the lighthouse, are
several cottages for the use of the Superintendent and those under his
command. The different points of view which it comprises are all deeply
interesting to a stranger, particularly from the lighthouse, where the
sphere of vision is greatly enlarged.
[Illustration: THE EAGLE TOWER, CARNARVON CASTLE.]
EAGLE TOWER,
CAERNARVON CASTLE.
Caernarvon Castle, of which the Engraving annexed presents so faithful
and striking a resemblance, is a subject of no ordinary interest: it
generally engrosses the attention of all strangers in these parts, and
is, in every sense, one of the noblest specimens of castellated
architecture in existence. Like so many others of similar design and
execution, this fortress owes its origin to the policy of Edward the
First, who built it, according to contemporary history, by appropriating
the revenues of the See of York, then vacant, to the purposes of warlike
enterprise and ambition. The town is understood to have arisen under the
same auspices. The Castle defends it on the south by means of a narrow,
deep moat in front. In its west wall are three circular towers, with two
others on either side, and a narrow gate or entrance, over which is
placed a bare-headed figure with flowing locks,--the statue of the
founder,--holding in his left hand a sword, which he draws with his
right hand,--or rather, perhaps, is returning to its scabbard, in
allusion to the subjugation of the Welsh,--and a defaced shield under
his feet. This gate leads to a narrow, oblong court. At the west end is
a polygon, or many-sided tower, with three others of hexagonal form
above, and eagles sculptured on the battlements, from which it received
the name, preserved in the Engraving, of the "Eagle Tower." It is a
noble structure, having ten sides, and a staircase of three hundred
steps to the battlements. In this tower is the birth-chamber of Edward
the Second,--the first Prince of Wales,[1]--whose nativity, on the 25th
of April, 1284, was an humiliating epoch to the spirit of Cambrian
freedom. The room measures only eleven feet by seven,--dimensions little
in accordance with the importance attached to that event,--but still in
some measure characteristic of the fortunes of the royal heir, who,
after an eventful reign, was destined at last to perish by a horrible
death in the dungeon-room of Berkeley Castle. Adjoining this chamber is
a semicircular apartment, traditionally described as the King's Nursery.
The Castle and the court which it encloses are very nearly a mile in
circumference. From the outside, twelve towers are seen; out of which,
as observed in those of Conway Castle, issue several smaller angular
turrets, which, relieved against the horizon, produce a very picturesque
effect. A gateway on the south side of the Castle is called the Queen's
Gate, from the circumstance of Queen Eleanor having entered the fortress
through this gate, by a temporary bridge erected for the occasion.
Our limits do not permit us to indulge in more minute description of
this vast and imposing fortress, which, from the state of repair in
which it is still kept, may brave the changes of season and the fury of
the elements for many generations to come. Externally it is still
entire, and challenges the admiration of all who have the least taste
for what is sublime and striking in architecture. The castle-walls are
still washed by the sea on the north and west, as they formerly were on
the south. Founded upon a rock, and occupying so strong a position, it
might well have been considered impregnable in the absence of gunpowder.
Immense as the structure appears, it is said to have been built within
the short space of twelve months; a fact which would appear incredible,
did we not reflect that in those days of bitter vassalage the _will_ of
the sovereign was a law that could not be transgressed without certain
destruction to the offenders. If a work was considered impracticable, or
of doubtful accomplishment, all hesitation was removed--all difficulties
cancelled--by these expressive words, _Le Roi l'a voulu!_ And under the
more than magical influence of this laconic phrase, the "towery
fortress" of Caernarvon may have sprung into sudden existence.
[1] The origin of the motto ICH DIEN--I serve--is generally attributed
to Edward the Black Prince who, in leading the vanguard of his army to
the battle of Cressy, slew John of Luxemburg, King of Bohemia, and then
deplumed his helmet of those ostrich feathers which, in memory of this
victory, became his _cognisance_,--sometimes using one feather, at
others three, as appears on his seals and tomb, with scrolls containing
this motto, ICH DIEN. But the ancient arms of the princes of Wales,
while they were independent sovereigns, were quarterly _gules_ and _or_,
four lions _passant_, counterchanged. The Charter of Edward the First to
his son is dated March 24th, 1305,--_i.e._ when the Prince had attained
his majority.
[Illustration: CARNARVON.]
CAERNARVON CASTLE.
----"Rifled towers
That, beetling o'er the rock, rear the grey crest
Embattled."
The first royal charter granted in the Principality of Wales was that
conferred on the town of Caernarvon by Edward the First. It is a place
of great historical interest and importance, and, in connexion with its
magnificent castle, presents one of the most imposing features on the
British coast. The town is not large; but the recent improvements--public
and private--which have been carried into effect have materially
contributed to its internal convenience and outward embellishment. Of
these the Baths demand especial notice, as one of the principal
recommendations to strangers and invalids who resort to this part of the
Cambrian shore either for health or relaxation. The building in itself
is a good specimen of classical taste--combining elegance of design with
excellent workmanship, and presenting, in the distribution of its
apartments, every convenience for the reception of visiters and
invalids, a choice of hot and cold sea-water baths, with the appendage
of comfortable dressing-rooms. For those who have the pleasure in the
"cold plunge," as the means of bracing the relaxed system by the
exercise of swimming, there is excellent accommodation in a capacious
bath, appropriated to that salutary purpose, which is refreshed by a
constant supply of water drawn by a steam-engine from the sea through
iron pipes, and received into large reservoirs of the same metal. This
edifice, which combines in an eminent degree the useful and ornamental,
was built at the expense of the Marquess of Anglesey, and is said to
have cost upwards of ten thousand pounds.
Within the walls this ancient town is intersected by ten streets,
crossing each other at right-angles, which, at various points, fix the
stranger's attention by those features and recollections of "other
times" with which they are so closely associated. Of these, the main or
high street runs from the land to the Water-gate, and is a very fair
specimen of that architecture which characterises almost all town
buildings of the feudal period. Beyond the walls the town assumes a very
different character; elegance, taste, and comfort, and those features
which mark the progress of art and refinement, are brought into
immediate view; while numerous cottages, and several villas of handsome
design and finely situated, throw an air of luxury and domestic comfort
over the rural suburbs, the natural character of which is highly
favourable to buildings of this description. The town is well paved,
lighted with gas, and abundantly supplied with water.