Union, and Oregon has advanced, in one year, from ninth to fourth place.
The 1910 production of lumber in these states was 6,182,125,000 feet, or
15.4 per cent. of the total output of the United States. The same
states, it is estimated, have 936,800,000,000 feet of standing
merchantable timber, or a third of the country's total.
[Illustration: Rangers' Pony Trail in forest of Douglas and Silver
Firs.]
This is the heritage which the centuries of forest life have bequeathed.
Only the usufruct of it is rightfully ours. Even as legal owners, we are
nevertheless but trustees of that which was here before the coming of
our race, and which should be here in great quantity when our trails
have led beyond the range. Our duty is plain. Let us uphold every effort
to give meaning and power to the civil laws which say: "Thou shalt not
burn;" to the moral laws which say: "Thou shalt not waste." Let us
understand and support that spirit of conservation which demands for
coming generations the fullest measure of the riches we enjoy. For
although the region of the Columbia is the home of the greatest trees,
centuries must pass ere the seedlings of to-day will stand matured.
[Illustration: Forest Fire on east fork of Hood River. From a photograph
taken at Cloud Cap Inn five minutes after the fire started.]
Reforestation is indispensable as insurance. Let us see to it that the
untillable hills shall ever bear these matchless forests, emerald
settings for our snow-peaks. On their future depends, in great degree,
the future of the Northwest. As protectors of the streams that nourish
our valleys, and perennial treasuries of power for our industries, they
are guarantors of life and well-being to the millions that will soon
people the vast Columbia basin.
[Illustration: Reforestation--Three generations of young growth;
Lodgepole Pine in foreground; Lodgepole and Tamarack thicket on ridge at
right; Tamarack on skyline.]
NOTES
=Transportation Routes, Hotels, Guides, etc.=--The
trip from Portland to north side of Mount Hood is made
by rail (Oregon-Washington Ry. & Nay. Co. from Union
station) or boat (The Dalles, Portland & Astoria Nav.
Co. from foot of Alder street) to Hood River, Ore. (66
miles), where automobiles are taken for Cloud Cap Inn.
Fare, to Hood River, by rail, $1.90; by boat, $1.00.
Auto fare, Hood River to the Inn, $5.00. Round trip,
Portland to Inn and return, by rail, $12.50; by boat,
$12.00. Board and room at Cloud Cap Inn, $5.00 a day,
or $30.00 a week. Accommodations may be reserved at
Travel Bureau, 69 Fifth street.
To Government Camp, south side of Mount Hood (56
miles), the trip is made by electric cars to Boring,
Oregon, and thence by automobile. Cars of the Portland
Railway, Light & Power Co., leave First and Alder
streets for Boring (fare 40 cents), where they connect
with automobiles (fare to Government Camp, $5.00).
Board and room at Coalman's Government Camp hotel,
$3.00 a day, or $18.00 a week.
Guides for the ascent of Mt. Hood, as well as for a
variety of side trips, may be engaged at Cloud Cap Inn
and Government Camp. For climbing parties, the charge
is $5.00 per member.
The trip to Mount Adams is by Spokane, Portland &
Seattle ("North Bank") Railway from North Bank station
or by boat (as above) to White Salmon, Wash.,
connecting with automobile or stage for Guler or
Glenwood. Fare to White Salmon by rail, $2.25; round
trip, $3.25; fare by boat, $1.00. White Salmon to
Guler, $3.00. Board and room at Chris. Guler's hotel
at Guler P. O., near Trout Lake, $1.50 a day, or $9.00
a week. Similar rates to and at Glenwood. At either
place, guides and horses may be engaged for the
mountain trails (15 miles to the snow-line). Bargain
in advance.
The south side of Mount St. Helens is reached by rail
from Union station, Portland, to Yacolt (fare $1.30)
or Woodland ($1.00), where conveyances may be had for
Peterson's ranch on Lewis River. To the north side,
the best route is by rail to Castle Rock (fare,
$1.90), and by vehicle thence to Spirit Lake. Regular
guides for the mountain are not to be had, but the
trails are well marked.
=Automobile Roads.=--Portland has many excellent roads
leading out of the city, along the Columbia and the
Willamette. One of the most attractive follows the
south bank of the Columbia to Rooster Rock and
Latourelle Falls (25 miles). As it is on the high
bluffs for much of the distance, it commands extended
views of the river in each direction, and of the
snow-peaks east and north of the city. Return may be
made via the Sandy River valley. This road is now
being extended eastward from Latourelle Falls to
connect with the road which is building westward from
Hood River. When completed the highway will be one of
the great scenic roads of the world.
From Portland, several roads through the near-by
villages lead to a junction with the highway to
Government Camp on the south side of Mount Hood (56
miles). The mountain portion of this is the old Barlow
Road of the "immigrant" days in early Oregon, and is
now a toll road. (Toll for vehicles, round trip,
$2.50.) Supervisor T. H. Sherrard, of the Oregon
National Forest Service, is now building a road from
the west boundary of the national forest, at the
junction of Zigzag and Sandy rivers, crossing Sandy
canyon (see p. 71), following the Clear Fork of the
Sandy to the summit of the Cascades, crossing the
range by the lowest pass in the state (elevation,
3,300 feet), and continuing down Elk Creek and West
Fork of Hood River to a junction with the road from
Lost Lake into Hood River valley. The completion of
this road through the forest reserve will open a
return route from Hood River to the Government Camp
road, through a mountain district of the greatest
interest.
Southward from Portland, inviting roads along the
Willamette lead to Oregon City, Salem, Eugene and
Albany. From Portland westward, several good roads are
available, leading along the Columbia or through
Banks, Buxton and Mist to Astoria and the beach
resorts south of that city. North of the Columbia
(ferry to Vancouver), a route of great interest leads
eastward along the Columbia to Washougal and the
canyon of Washougal River (45 miles). From Vancouver
northward a popular road follows the Columbia to
Woodland and Kalama, and thence along the Cowlitz
River to Castle Rock.
The tour book of the Portland Automobile Club, giving
details of these and many other roads, may be had for
$1.50 in paper covers, or $2.50 in leather.
=Bibliography.=--The geological story of the Cascade
uptilt and the formation of the Columbia gorge is
graphically told in _Condon: Oregon Geology_
(Portland, J. K. Gill Co., 1910). For the Columbia
from its sources to the sea, _Lyman: The Columbia
River_ (New York, G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1909) not only
gives the best account of the river itself and its
great basin but tells the Indian legends and outlines
the period of discovery and settlement. _Irving:
Astoria_ and _Winthrop: The Canoe and the Saddle_ are
classics of the early Northwest. _Balch: Bridge of the
Gods_, weaves the Indian myth of a natural bridge into
a story of love and war.
The literature of the mountains described in this
volume is mainly to be found in the publications of
the mountain clubs, especially _Mazama_ (Portland),
_The Sierra Club Bulletin_ (San Francisco) and _The
Mountaineer_ (Seattle). Many of their papers have
scientific value as well as popular interest. It is to
be hoped that the Mazamas will resume the publication
of their annual.
_Russell: Glaciers of N. Am._ p. 67; _Emmons:
Volcanoes of the U. S. Pacific Coast_, in _Bulletin of
Am. Geog. Soc._, v. 9, p. 31; _Sylvester: Is Mt. Hood
Awakening?_ in _Nat'l Geog. Mag._, v. 19, p. 515,
describe the glaciers of Mt. Hood. Prof. Reid has
published valuable accounts of both Hood and Adams,
with especial reference to their glaciers, in
_Science_, n. s., v. 15, p. 906; _Bul. Geol. Soc. of
Am._, v. 13, p. 536, and _Zeitschrift fur
Gletscherkunde_, v. 1, p. 113. An account of the
volcanic activities of St. Helens by Lieut. C. P.
Elliott, U. S. A., may be found in _U. S. Geog. Mag._,
v. 8, pp. 226, and by J. S. Diller in _Science_, v. 9,
p. 639.
The ice caves of the Mt. Adams district are described
in _Balch_: _Glacieres, or Freezing Caverns_, which
covers similar phenomena in many countries; by L. H.
Wells, in _Pacific Monthly_, v. 13, p. 234; by R. W.
Raymond, in _Overland Monthly_, v. 3, p. 421; by H. T.
Finck in _Nation_, v. 57, p. 342.
Dryer's account of the first ascent of Mt. St. Helens
may be found in _The Oregonian_ of September 3, 1853,
and his story of the first ascent of Mt. Hood in _The
Oregonian_, August 19, 1854, and _Littell's Living
Age_, v. 43, p. 321.
=The Mountain Clubs.=--For the following list of
presidents and ascents of the Mazamas, I am indebted
to Miss Gertrude Metcalfe, historian of the club:
PRESIDENTS. OFFICIAL ASCENTS.
1894 Will G. Steel Mt. Hood, Oregon.
1895 Will G. Steel--L. L. Hawkins Mt. Adams, Washington.
1896 C. H. Sholes Mt. Mazama (named for the
Mazamas, 1896), Mt.
McLoughlin (Pitt), Crater
Lake, Oregon.
1897 Henry L. Pittock Mt. Rainier, Washington.
1898 Hon. M. C. George Mt. St. Helens, Washington.
1899 Will G. Steel Mt. Sahale (named by the
Mazamas, 1899), Lake
Chelan, Wash.
1900 T. Brook White Mt. Jefferson, Oregon.
1901 Mark O'Neill Mt. Hood, Oregon.
1902 Mark O'Neill Mt. Adams, Washington.
1903 R. L. Glisan Three Sisters, Oregon.
1904 C. H. Sholes Mt. Shasta, California.
1905 Judge H. H. Northup Mt. Rainier, Washington.
1906 C. H. Sholes Mt. Baker (Northeast side),
Wash.
1907 C. H. Sholes Mt. Jefferson, Oregon.
1908 C. H. Sholes Mt. St. Helens, Washington.
1909 M. W. Gorman Mt. Baker (Southwest side),
and Shuksan, Washington.
1910 John A. Lee Three Sisters, Oregon.
1911 H. H. Riddell Glacier Peak, Lake Chelan, Wash.
1912 Edmund P. Sheldon Mt. Hood, Oregon.
The organization and success of the Portland Snow Shoe
Club are mainly due to the enthusiastic labors of its
president, J. Wesley Ladd. Between 1901 and 1909, Mr.
Ladd took a private party of his friends each winter
for snow shoeing and other winter sports to Cloud Cap
Inn or Government Camp. Three years ago it was
determined to form a club and erect a house near Cloud
Cap Inn. The club was duly incorporated and a permit
obtained from the United States Forest Service. Mr.
Ladd, who has been president of the club since its
formation, writes me:
"Our club house was started in July, 1910, and was
erected by Mr. Mark Weygandt, the worthy mountain
guide who has conducted so many parties to the top of
Mt. Hood. It is built of white fir logs, all selected
there in the forest. I have been told in a letter from
the Montreal Amateur Athletic Club of Montreal,
Canada, that we have the most unique and up-to-date
Snow Shoe Club building in the world. The site for the
house was selected by Mr. Horace Mecklem and myself,
who made a special trip up there. The building was
finished in September, 1910. It is forty feet long and
twenty four feet wide, with a six-foot fireplace and a
large up-to-date cooking range. The organizers of the
club are as follows: Harry L. Corbett, Elliott R.
Corbett, David T. Honeyman, Walter B. Honeyman, Rodney
L. Glisan, Dr. Herbert S. Nichols, Horace Mecklem,
Brandt Wickersham, Jordan V. Zan, and myself."
The Portland Ski Club was organized six years ago, and
has since made a trip to Government Camp in January or
February of each year. The journey is made by vehicle
until snow is gained on the foothills, at
Rhododendron; the remaining ten miles are covered on
skis. The presidents of the club have been: 1907,
James A. Ambrose; 1908, George S. Luders; 1909, Howard
H. Haskell; 1910, E. D. Jorgensen; 1911, G. R. Knight;
1912, John C. Cahalin.
The Mountaineers, a club organized in Seattle in 1907,
made a noteworthy ascent of Mount Adams in 1911.
=Climate.=--The weather conditions in the lower
Columbia River region are a standing invitation to
outdoor life during a long and delightful summer.
Western Oregon and Washington know no extremes of heat
or cold at any time of the year. The statistics here
given are from tables of the U. S. Weather Bureau,
averaged for the period of government record:
Mean annual rainfall: Portland, 45.1 inches; The
Dalles, 19 inches. Portland averages 164 days with .01
of an inch precipitation during the year, and The
Dalles 74 days; but the long and comparatively dry
summer is indicated by the fact that only 27 of these
days at Portland and 15 at The Dalles fell in the
summer months, June to September inclusive.
Mean annual temperature varies little between the east
and west sides of the Cascades, Portland having a
57-year average of 52.8° as compared with 52.5° at The
Dalles. But the range of temperature is greater in the
interior. Thus the mean monthly temperature for
January, the coldest month, is 38.7° at Portland and
32.6° at The Dalles, while for July, the hottest
month, it is 67.3° at Portland and 72.6° at The
Dalles.
While mountain weather must always be an uncertain
quantity, that of the Northwestern snow-peaks is
comparatively steady, owing to the dry summer of the
lowlands. During July and August, the snow-storms of
the Alps are almost unknown here. After the middle of
September, however, when the rains have begun, a
visitor to the snow-line is liable to encounter
weather very like that recorded by a belated tourist
at Zermatt:
First it rained and then it blew,
And then it friz and then it snew,
And then it fogged and then it thew;
And very shortly after then
It blew and friz and snew again.
=Erratum.=--On page 72, I have been misled by Dryer's
statement into crediting the first ascent of Mount
Hood to Captain Samuel K. Barlow, the road builder.
The mountain climber was his son, William Barlow, as I
am informed by Mr. George H. Himes, of the Oregon
Historical Society.
INDEX
Figures in light face type refer to the text, those in heavier type to
illustrations.
Adams, Mt., Indian legend of its origin, 43;
routes to, 66, 67;
structure and glaciers, 89-104;
lava flows, 93-97;
tree casts, 94;
caves, 94-96;
routes to summit, 96-100;
name, 103;
height, 104;
first ascent, 104;
views of, =8=, =15=, =17=, =31=, =63=, =86-107=
Adams glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =103=, 104, =106=
Alps, character and scenery, 60
Archer Mountain, =29=
Arrowhead Mountain, =29=, =31=
Astoria, 51, =16=, =21=
Automobile roads, 140
Avalanche glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, 107
Barlow, William, ascent of Mt. Hood, 72, 79, 142
Barlow road, 70, 142, =78=
Barrett Spur, 86, =57=, =69=, =75=
Bibliography, 141
Blue Mountains, 18, 24
"Bridge of the Gods," Indian legend, 36-43; =21=, =35=
Bryce, James, on Northwestern mountains, 60
Cabbage Rock, =47=
Cape Horn, =19=
Carbon glacier, 102
Cascade locks, =39=
Cascade Mountains, 18, 24, 25, 28, 30, 58-66
Castle Rock (Columbia River), =28=, =29=, =31=
Castle Rock, Wash., 106
Cedars, group of red, =128=
Celilo Falls (Tumwater), =52=, =54=
Chelatchie Prairie, =114=
Chinook wind, Indian legend of its origin, 46-48
Climate, 142
Cloud Cap Inn, 15, 67, 78, =57=, =58=, =60=, =66=
Coast Range, 58
Coe glacier, Mt. Hood, 78, 80, 83-86, =69=, =72=, =75=
Columbia River, John Muir's description, 15;
dawn on, 15-23;
its gorge, 30;
Indian legends of its origin, 36-43;
its discovery by Capt. Gray, 51;
struggle for its ownership, 50-52;
its settlement, 52;
views of, =7=, =9=, =14-52=, =56=, =109=
Columbia Slough, =18=, =21=
"Coming of the White Man," statue, =23=
Cooper Spur, Mt. Hood, 79, 80, 87, =57-60=
Crater Rock, 81, 87, =77=, =80=
Dalles, The, 18, 39, 96, 107, =46=, =47=, =49=
Douglas, David, 131
Douglas firs, 131, 132, =122=, =130=, =132=, =133=
Dryer, T. J., 72, 115
Eliot glacier, Mt. Hood, 15, 67, 78, 83-86, =17=, =58-67=, =73=, =92=
Forest, on lava beds, 94, 107-112, =111=
"Forests, The," chapter by Harold Douglas Langille, 123-139, =122-139=
Forsyth, C. E., leader in rescue on Mt. St. Helens, 121
Glacieres, freezing caves, 95, 96, =87=
Glenwood, Wash., 68, 96
Goldendale, Wash., 68
Government Camp, 68, 70, 140, 142, =78=, =81=
"Grant Castle," on the Columbia, =46=
Gray, Capt. Robert, 51
Guler, Wash., 68, 96, =89=, =90=
Hellroaring Canyon, 103, =95=, =96=, =97=
Hood, Mt., dawn on, 15;
Indian legend of its origin, 43;
John Muir on, 57;
routes to, 66-70;
first ascent, 72, 75;
height, 75, 76;
the Mazamas organized on summit, 75;
structure and glaciers, 75-89;
summit, 80, =6=, =55=, =70=;
crater, 81, 82, =77=;
lava bed, 89;
views of, =6=, =14=, =17=, =21=, =57-85=, =123=, =124=, =138=
Hood River, =43=, =85=
Hood River (city), Ore., 67, 140, =43=, =109=
Hood River Valley, 18, 63, 66, 67, =44=
Hudson's Bay Company, 51
Ice caves, 95, 96, =87=
Illumination Rock, 81, =77=, 79
Indians, legend of the creation, 32;
"Bridge of the Gods," 36-43;
origin of the Chinook wind, 46-48;
value of their place names, 104;
Leschi, first Indian to scale a snow-peak, 115; =21=, =23=,
=26=, =30=, =44=, =50=, =52=
Japan current, 46
Jefferson, Mt., 104, =83=
Kelley, Hall J., 103
Klickitat glacier, Mt. Adams, 97-103; =94=, =97-100=
Klickitat River, 68, =144=
Ladd glacier, Mt. Hood, 78, 80, 83-86, =69=, =75=
Langille, Harold Douglas, "The Forests," 123-139
Langille, William A., 80
Lava beds, tree casts, caves, etc., near Mt. Adams, 89-96, =86=, =87=;
near Mt. St. Helens, 107-112, =111=, =112=;
struggle of the forest to cover, 108-112, =111=
Lava glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =101-104=
Lewis and Clark, exploration, 51
Lewis River, 106, 107, =108=
Lily, the Mt. Hood, =81=
Lone Rock, =19=, =29=
Loowit, the witch woman, 41-43
Lyle, Wash, 68, =9=, =45=
Lyman glaciers, Mt. Adams, 100, =101=
Lyman, Prof. W. D., 51, 82, 103
Mazama glacier, Mt. Adams, 97, 100, =94=, =96=
Mazama Rock, Mt. Hood, =70=
Mazamas, mountain club, organization, 75;
ascents of Mt. St. Helens, 116;
an heroic rescue, 120, 121;
presidents, 142;
ascents, 142; =80=, =82=, =93=, =117=, =124=
Memaloose Island, =42=
Mountains, importance in scenery, 59
"Mountain that was 'God,'" =105=
Mountaineers, The, 142, =103=
Multnomah Falls, =26=, =27=, =28=
Newton Clark glacier, Mt. Hood, 79, 87, =83=, =84=
Noble fir, 129, 130, =125=, =130=, =136=
North Yakima, Wash., 68
Oneonta gorge, =30=, =32=
Oregon, its geological story, 23-32;
its settlement, 50-54
Peterson's, near Mt. St. Helens, 106, 107
Plummer, Fred G., 115
Pinnacle glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =106=, =107=
Portland, Ore., 57, 140, =7=, =22=, =61=, =113=
Portland Automobile Club, 70, 140
Portland Ski Club, 142, =81=
Portland Snow-shoe Club, 142, =57=, =62=, =66=
"Presidents' Range," 104
Puget Sound, 27
Rainier, Mt. or Mt. Tacoma, and Rainier National Park, 83, 102,
=51=, =105=, =113=, =117=
Red Butte, Mt. Adams, =86=
Reforestation, =139=
Reid, Prof. Harry Fielding, 87, 103, =79=
Rhododendrons, 134, =127=
Ridge of Wonders, Mt. Adams, 103, =96=, =98=, =99=
Riley, Frank B., 120, 121
Rocky Mountains, 23
Rooster Rock, =25=
Rusk, C. E., 103
Rusk glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, 102, =98=, =101=
Ruskin, John, quoted, 59, 60, 123
"Sacajawea," statue, =23=
Sacramento Valley, origin, 26
Salmon fishing, =16=, =25=, =33=, =36=, =48=
Sandy glaciers and canyon, Mt. Hood, 86, 87, =71=, =76=
Sandy, Ore., =51=
San Joaquin Valley, origin, 21
Shaw, Col. B. F., 104
Siskiyou Mountains, 24
South Butte, Mt. Adams, 96, =89=
Speelyei, the coyote god, 32, 47
Spirit Lake, 106, =4=
Squaw grass, 134, =135=
Steel's Cliff, 81, =91=
St. Helens, Mt., Indian legend of its origin, 43;
compared with Mt. Adams, 90, 94;
discovery and name, 104;
structure, 104-6;
height, 106;
routes to, 106;
recent eruptions, 106, 107;
lava beds, 107-112;
glaciers, 112-115;
routes to summit, 112-116;
volcanic phenomena, 115;
first ascent, 115;
the Mazamas on, 116, 120, 121;
an heroic rescue, 120, 121;
views of, =4=, =8=, =15=, =17=, =108-121=
St. Peter's Dome, =20=, =31=
Sylvester, A. H., 86, 87
Table Mountain, =31=, =35=, =36=
Toutle River canyons, Mt. St. Helens, 115, =116=
Tree casts, 94, 107, =111=
Trout Lake, 15, 62, 66, 76, =89=, =110=
Umatilla, Ore., 62
Umatilla Indian village, =50=
Vancouver, Capt. George, 72, 104
Vancouver, Wash., 106, =15=, =24=
Volcanoes, 27, 28
White River glacier, Mt. Hood, 81, =75=, =77=, =82=
White Salmon, Wash., 67, 140, =42=, =44=
White Salmon glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =107=
White Salmon River, =41=
White Salmon Valley, 56, 89
Willamette River, 21, 57, =9=, =113=
Wind Mountain, =39=, =40=
Woodland, Wash., 106, 140
Yacolt, Wash., 106, 140
Yakima Indians, 48, =21=
Y. M. C. A., party on Mt. Hood, =76=;
on Mt. Adams, =86=
Yocum, O. C., 70
Zigzag glacier, Mt. Hood, 81, 87, =77=, =79=
Zigzag River and Canyon, 86, 87, =48=, =78=
[Illustration: Klickitat River Canyon, near Mount Adams.]
ENGRAVINGS BY THE HICKS-CHATTEN CO.
COLOR PRINTING BY THE KILHAM STATIONERY AND PRINTING CO.
PORTLAND, OREGON
* * * * *
Transcriber's note:
Obvious punctuation errors were corrected.
Page 10, "Moorhouse" changed to "Moorehouse" (Lee Moorehouse 26)
Page 51, "monoply" changed to "monopoly" (a foreign monopoly that)
Page 54, "descendents" changed to "descendants" (pride of their
descendants)
Page 60, illustration with caption beginning "Cone of Mount Hood",
"scoriae" changed to "scoriæ" (ridge of volcanic scoriæ)
Page 78, "pretentions" changed to "pretensions" (with very modest
pretensions)
Page 81, "scoriae" changed to "scoriæ" (rocks and the scoriæ which)
Page 83, "tripple" changed to "triple" (and even triple border)
Page 97, double word "to" removed from test. Original read (stairway
tilted to to forty)
Page 141, italics added to "U. S. Geog. Mag." and "Science" to follow
rest of usage (in _U. S. Geog. Mag._, v. 8, pp. 226, and by J. S. Diller
in _Science_)
Page 142, Erratum, "Captin" changed to "Captain" (to Captain Samuel K.
Barlow)
Page 143, Indians, Leschi, only the first illustration is of Leschi, the
rest of the bolded page numbers are of other people.
Page 143, Zigzag River and Canyon, bold text added to "48" as it is an
illustration (Canyon, 86, 87, =48=, =78=)