The quantities and values of sewed straw hats imported into the United
States were not separately shown in official statistics prior to the
tariff act of 1922, in which sewed straw hats were given a separate
classification.
Table 3 shows the imports for consumption of sewed straw hats from the
principal countries of origin, by months, for the calendar years 1923
and 1924. Total imports increased from 93,309 dozen in 1923, valued at
$779,989, to 164,041 dozen in 1924, valued at $1,179,929, a gain of
approximately 75 per cent in quantity and 50 per cent in value.
TABLE 3.--_Imports for consumption of men's sewed straw hats[1] from
Italy, England, Germany, and other countries, by months, calendar years
1923 and 1924_
(Source: Foreign Commerce and Navigation of the United States)
-------------+----------+----------+----------+----------+------------
| Italy | England | Germany | Other | Total
| | | | countries|
| | | | [2] |
+----------+----------+----------+----------+------------
Month | 1923 | 1923 | 1923 | 1923 | 1923
-------------+----------+----------+----------+----------+------------
| _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_
January | 51,225 | 9,734 | 2,460 | 26,606 | 90,025
February | 53,644 | 9,235 | 8 | 4,756 | 67,643
March | 54,102 | 55,920 | 7,420 | 51,305 | 168,747
April | 66,552 | 46,222 | 1,931 | 84,684 | 199,389
May | 78,602 | 68,989 | 80 | 31,888 | 179,559
June | 38,658 | 42,776 | 1,960 | 4,414 | 87,808
July | 23,049 | 6,717 | 848 | 11,685 | 42,299
August | 1,796 | 1,250 | 1,504 | 1,041 | 5,591
September | 120 | 960 | 1,272 | 102 | 2,474
October | 53,129 | 396 | 3,411 | 331 | 57,267
November | 77,962 | 2,718 | 8,929 | 7,524 | 97,133
December | 78,372 | 1,647 | 21,334 | 20,415 | 121,768
+----------+----------+----------+----------+------------
Total number | 577,211 | 246,584 | 51,157 | 244,751 | 1,119,703
Dozen | 48,101 | 20,549 | 4,263 | 20,396 | 93,309
+==========+==========+==========+==========+============
| | | | |
Total Value | $289,215 | $256,769 | $32,503 | $201,502 | $779,989
| | | | |
Average | | | | |
value per | | | | |
dozen | $6.01 | $12.50 | $7.62 | $9.88 | $8.36
+==========+==========+==========+==========+============
Per cent | | | | |
of hats | | | | |
imported | | | | |
from each | | | | |
country | 51.50 | 22.00 | 4.60 | 21.90 | 100.0
-------------+----------+----------+----------+----------+------------
-------------+----------+----------+----------+----------+------------
| Italy | England | Germany | Other | Total
| | | | countries|
| | | | [2] |
+----------+----------+----------+----------+------------
Month | 1924 | 1924 | 1924 | 1924 | 1924
-------------+----------+----------+----------+----------+------------
| _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_
January | 35,754 | 50,087 | 19,829 | 34,754 | 140,424
February | 114,644 | 35,024 | 25,372 | 57,429 | 232,469
March | 97,899 | 46,435 | 50,126 | 40,669 | 235,129
April | 192,007 | 119,031 | 85,421 | 49,935 | 446,394
May | 113,593 | 54,874 | 85,884 | 34,047 | 288,398
June | 59,840 | 37,208 | 6,873 | 14,769 | 118,690
July | 22,505 | 1,533 | 720 | 41,367 | 66,125
August | 4,000 | 820 | 2,795 | 41,689 | 49,304
September | 427 | 706 | 7,377 | 10,550 | 19,060
October | 37,809 | 318 | 4,541 | 34,528 | 77,196
November | 82,313 | 2,640 | 959 | 44,471 | 130,383
December | 100,353 | 4,723 | 5,332 | 54,516 | 164,924
+----------+----------+----------+----------+------------
Total number | 861,144 | 353,399 | 295,229 | 458,724 | 1,968,496
Dozen | 71,762 | 29,450 | 24,602 | 38,227 | 164,041
+----------+----------+----------+----------+------------
| | | | |
Total Value | $427,706 | $282,402 | $180,054 | $289,767 | $1,179,929
| | | | |
Average | | | | |
value per | | | | |
dozen | $5.96 | $9.59 | $7.32 | $7.57 | $7.19
+==========+==========+==========+==========+============
Per cent | | | | |
of hats | | | | |
imported | | | | |
from each | | | | |
country | 43.75 | 17.95 | 15.00 | 23.30 | 100.00
-------------+----------+----------+----------+----------+------------
[1: Including men's, women's, and children's.]
[2: Including withdrawals from warehouse.]
A comparison of the imports for the first four months of 1925 with those
for the corresponding period in 1924 is shown in Table 4. A significant
feature of this table is the increase in imports from Italy and the
decrease of imports from both the United Kingdom and Germany. It should
be noted also that the average foreign[a] value per dozen of Italian
hats decreased while the average foreign[a] value of hats imported from
England and other countries increased.
[Footnote a: Values upon which duties were assessed as computed from
data given in Foreign Commerce and Navigation of the United States.]
TABLE 4.--_Imports for consumption of men's sewed straw hats[1] from
Italy, United Kingdom, Germany, and other countries, by months,
January-April, inclusive, 1924 and 1925._
(Source: Foreign Commerce and Navigation of the United States)
------------+----------+----------+----------+-----------+-----------
| Italy | United | Germany | Other | Total
| | Kingdom | | countries |
| | | | [2] |
+----------+----------+----------+-----------+-----------
Month | 1924 | 1924 | 1924 | 1924 | 1924
------------+----------+----------+----------+-----------+-----------
| _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_
January | 35,754 | 50,087 | 19,829 | 34,754 | 140,424
February | 114,644 | 35,024 | 25,372 | 57,429 | 232,469
March | 97,899 | 46,435 | 50,126 | 40,669 | 235,129
April | 192,007 | 119,031 | 85,421 | 49,935 | 446,394
+----------+----------+----------+-----------+-----------
Total number| 440,304 | 250,577 | 180,748 | 182,787 | 1,054,416
Dozen | 36,692 | 20,882 | 15,062 | 15,232 | 87,868
+==========+==========+==========+===========+===========
| | | | |
Total value | $228,452 | $201,291 | $102,366 | $123,775 | $655,884
| | | | |
Average | | | | |
value | | | | |
per dozen | 6.23 | 9.64 | 6.80 | 8.13 | 7.46
+==========+==========+==========+===========+===========
Per cent | | | | |
of hats | | | | |
imported | | | | |
from each | | | | |
country | 41.76 | 23.76 | 17.14 | 17.34 | 100.00
------------+----------+----------+----------+-----------+-----------
------------+----------+----------+----------+-----------+-----------
| Italy | United | Germany | Other | Total
| | Kingdom | | countries |
| | | | [2] |
+----------+----------+----------+-----------+-----------
Month | 1925 | 1925 | 1925 | 1925 | 1925
------------+----------+----------+----------+-----------+-----------
| _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_ | _Number_
January | 212,292 | 8,995 | 12,070 | 6,104 | 239,461
February | 189,736 | 31,776 | 7,697 | 22,580 | 251,789
March | 207,218 | 61,755 | 3,828 | 24,482 | 297,283
April | 260,145 | 45,711 | 40,479 | 10,545 | 356,880
+----------+----------+----------+-----------+-----------
Total number| 869,391 | 148,237 | 64,074 | 63,711 | 1,145,413
Dozen | 72,449 | 12,353 | 5,340 | 5,309 | 95,451
+==========+==========+==========+===========+===========
| | | | |
Total value | $395,298 | $161,422 | $40,923 | $78,222 | $675,865
| | | | |
Average | | | | |
value | | | | |
per dozen | 5.46 | 13.07 | 7.66 | 14.73 | 7.08
+==========+==========+==========+===========+===========
Per cent | | | | |
of hats | | | | |
imported | | | | |
from each | | | | |
country | 75.90 | 12.94 | 5.60 | 5.56 | 100.00
------------+----------+----------+----------+-----------+-----------
[1: Including men's, women's, and children's.]
[2: Including withdrawals from warehouse.]
TABLE 5.--_Imports at the port of New York of men's sewed straw hats
from Italy[1] classified according to foreign value, including packing
January-June, 1924_
[In dozens]
----------------+-------------------------+-------------------------
| Sennits[2] | Fancies[3]
Value +-------+---------+-------+-------+---------+-------
|Trimmed|Untrimmed| Total |Trimmed|Untrimmed| Total
----------------+-------+---------+-------+-------+---------+-------
$2.99 and less | | 18 | 18 | | 60 | 60
$3.00-$3.49 | 6 | 38 | 44 | | 219 | 219
$3.50-$3.99 | 255 | 23 | 278 | 1 | 250 | 251
$4.00-$4.49 | 2,518 | 28 | 2,546 | 196 | 2,909 | 3,105
$4.50-$4.99 | 1,617 | 24 | 1,641 | 61 | 477 | 538
$5.00-$5.49 | 1,671 | 4 | 1,675 | 427 | 711 | 1,138
$5.50-$5.99 | 1,687 | 1 | 1,688 | 608 | 89 | 697
$6.00-$6.49 | 1,313 | | 1,313 | 2,831 | 182 | 3,013
$6.50-$6.99 | 2,657 | 1 | 2,658 | 2,537 | 33 | 2,570
$7.00-$7.49 | 740 | | 740 | 996 | 15 | 1,011
$7.50-$7.99 | 255 | | 255 | 939 | 3 | 942
$8.00-$8.49 | 147 | | 147 | 470 | 6 | 476
$8.50-$8.99 | 165 | | 165 | 261 | 5 | 266
$9.00-$9.49 | 10 | | 10 | 165 | 1 | 166
$9.50-$9.99 | 30 | | 30 | 107 | | 107
$10.00-$10.49 | 39 | | 39 | 56 | 1 | 57
$10.50-$10.99 | 46 | | 46 | 34 | | 34
$11.00 and over | 63 | 3 | 66 | 10 | 12 | 22
+-------+---------+-------+-------+---------+-------
Total |13,219 | 140 |13,359 | 9,699 | 4,973 |14,672
----------------+-------+---------+-------+-------+---------+-------
[In dozens]
----------------+-------------------------+-------------------------
| Miscellaneous[4] | Grand total
Value +-------+---------+-------+-------+---------+-------
|Trimmed|Untrimmed| Total |Trimmed|Untrimmed| Total
----------------+-------+---------+-------+-------+---------+-------
$2.99 and less | | | | | 78 | 78
$3.00-$3.49 | 50 | | 50 | 56 | 257 | 313
$3.50-$3.99 | 570 | | 570 | 826 | 273 | 1,099
$4.00-$4.49 | 622 | | 622 | 3,336 | 2,937 | 6,273
$4.50-$4.99 | 680 | | 680 | 2,358 | 501 | 2,859
$5.00-$5.49 | 1,715 | | 1,715 | 3,813 | 715 | 4,528
$5.50-$5.99 | 1,095 | 58 | 1,153 | 3,390 | 148 | 3,538
$6.00-$6.49 | 1,826 | 10 | 1,836 | 5,970 | 192 | 6,162
$6.50-$6.99 | 879 | 1 | 880 | 6,073 | 35 | 6,108
$7.00-$7.49 | 433 | | 433 | 2,169 | 15 | 2,184
$7.50-$7.99 | 346 | 17 | 363 | 1,540 | 20 | 1,560
$8.00-$8.49 | 598 | | 598 | 1,215 | 6 | 1,221
$8.50-$8.99 | 231 | | 231 | 657 | 5 | 662
$9.00-$9.49 | 420 | | 420 | 595 | 1 | 596
$9.50-$9.99 | 46 | | 46 | 183 | | 183
$10.00-$10.49 | 203 | | 203 | 298 | 1 | 299
$10.50-$10.99 | 56 | | 56 | 136 | | 136
$11.00 and over | 527 | 1 | 528 | 600 | 16 | 616
+-------+---------+-------+-------+---------+-------
Total |10,297 | 87 |10,384 |33,215 | 5,200 |38,415
----------------+-------+---------+-------+-------+---------+-------
[1: Taken from original invoices. Fractional dozen omitted in this
table.]
[2: Split, improved, and flatfoot.]
[3: Fancy straw and sennit, fancy.]
[4: Including hats the type of which is not specified in the invoice.
Probably many sennits and fancies.]
In Table 5, imports of Italian hats at the port of New York in the six
months January-June, 1924, have been classified according to foreign
values shown on consular invoices. There is a marked concentration of
imports in the value groups between $4 and $7 per dozen. About 90 per
cent of all the sennit hats and 80 per cent of the total importations
had foreign values of less than $7 per dozen.
TABLE 6.--_Percentage of men's sewed straw hats imported at the port
of New York from Italy with a foreign value less than that specified,
January-June_, 1924
--------------+------------+------------+------------------+-----------
Foreign value | Sennits[1] | Fancies[2] | Miscellaneous[3] | Total
less than-- | | | |
--------------+------------+------------+------------------+-----------
| _Per cent_ | _Per cent_ | _Per cent_ | _Per cent_
$9.50 | 98.6 | 98.5 | 92.0 | 96.8
$9.00 | 98.6 | 97.4 | 87.9 | 95.2
$8.50 | 97.3 | 95.6 | 85.7 | 93.5
$8.00 | 91.2 | 92.3 | 79.9 | 90.3
$7.50 | 94.3 | 85.9 | 76.4 | 86.3
$7.00 | 88.8 | 79.0 | 72.3 | 80.6
$6.50 | 68.9 | 61.5 | 63.8 | 64.7
$6.00 | 9.1 | 40.9 | 46.1 | 48.6
$5.50 | 46.4 | 36.2 | 35.0 | 39.4
$5.00 | 33.9 | 28.4 | 18.5 | 27.6
$4.50 | 21.6 | 24.8 | 12.0 | 20.2
--------------+------------+------------+------------------+-----------
[1: Split, improved, and flatfoot.]
[2: Fancy straw and sennit, fancy.]
[3: Including hats the type of which is not specified in the invoice.]
The imports at the port of New York of hats from England are classified
in Table 7. It is evident that the bulk of the English importations are
not competitive with Italian hats. Only 28 per cent of the imports from
England had a foreign value of less than $7 per dozen.
TABLE 7.--_Imports at the port of New York of men's sewed straw hats
from England,[1] classified according to foreign value, including
packing, January-June_, 1924
------------------+---------
Foreign value | Dozen
------------------+---------
$6.50-$6.99 | 2,631
$7.00-$7.49 | ...
$7.50-$7.99 | ...
$8.00-$8.49 | ...
$8.50-$8.99 | 3,340
$9.00-$9.49 | 1,260
$9.50-$9.99 | 1,044
$10.00-$10.49 | 98
$10.50-$10.99 | ...
$11.00 and up | 948
| =====
Total | 9,521
------------------+---------
[1: These data cover 9,521 dozen hats out of a total of approximately
10,730 dozen imported from England, or 89 per cent. They represent
the larger invoices (several over 1,000 dozen) and hence are not
so evenly distributed as are the Italian hats.]
_Effect of imports._--The effect of the increasing imports of straw
hats on the production and sales of domestic firms was discussed at the
public hearings before the Tariff Commission. Evidence was introduced
showing that the production of 19 factories decreased from 468,424 dozen
in the eight months August, 1923, to March, 1924, to 391,189 dozen in
the corresponding months of 1924-25. Seventeen firms showed decreased
production and two firms reported increases. Meanwhile imports of
foreign hats increased from 74,355 dozen to 102,450 dozen. Imports
from Italy increased from 38,000 dozen to 70,000; imports from England
decreased from 12,000 dozen to 9,000. Representatives of several
domestic firms stated that their losses of business were directly
attributable to inability to meet prices quoted by importers of Italian
hats.[1]
[Footnote 1: See Transcript of Public Hearings, May 16, 1925, pp. 408,
420.]
Representatives of the importers, on the other hand, called attention
to the increasing competition of small firms in and around New York
City with larger and longer established firms located principally in
Baltimore. Some of the new firms operate on small capital and specialize
in cheap hats which are directly competitive with the cheapest Italian
hats. Others produce a somewhat better hat, such as is sold by chain
stores. The rate of business failure among the newer firms is unusually
high. Although the membership of the group of producers of cheap hats
is fluctuating, its total output of hats each year is a factor in the
competitive situation.
A relatively new development in the distribution of straw hats is the
chain stores. Sales of such stores, estimated at 150,000 to 200,000
dozen straw hats yearly, include Italian and English hats but are
principally of domestic manufacture. In some cases a chain-store
organization has established factories and thus has instituted direct
competition with manufacturing firms already established. Chain stores
also have furnished capital to small manufacturers, contracting for the
bulk of their output. Thus the change in marketing methods has a bearing
on the failure of the older establishments to keep pace in the volume of
their sales with the national expansion in straw hat consumption.