CHAPTER XV

Religious Ceremony for the Anniversary of the Death of Louis

XVI.--Reception at Talleyrand’s--Discussion on the Subject

of Saxony and Poland--The Order of the Day of the Grand-Duke

Constantine--A Factum of Pozzo di Borgo--A Sleighing-Party

--Entertainment and Fête at Schönbrunn--Prince Eugène--

Recollections of Queen Hortense--The Empress Marie-Louise at

the Valley of St. Helena--Second Sleighing-Party--A Funeral.

An important ceremony put a stop to all these entertainments.

Twenty-two years had gone by since the ill-fated Louis XVI. lost his

head on the scaffold, and his memory had not as yet received the

expiation of a solemn and public mourning. At the moment when all those

kings were working in unison for the pacification of Europe, they could

scarcely refrain from protesting by a ceremonious manifestation against

a fact which, causing all their thrones to shake on their bases,

seems to have been virtually the signal of all these disastrous wars.

Consequently, when Talleyrand, as the head of the French Legation,

invited the consent of the Austrian government to a memorial service

on the anniversary of the fatal twenty-first of January, his request

was granted with a kind of melancholy zeal. Nay, more, Emperor Francis

made a point of having the service celebrated in the Cathedral of St.

Stephen, so that it might be marked by extraordinary pomp, and that its

expenses should devolve upon the imperial treasury.

MM. Isabey and Moreau were entrusted with the plans and preparations

for the ceremony. In accordance with the emperor’s wish, the former

displayed the greatest magnificence, and that funereal pomp inseparable

from the obsequies of kings. In the centre of the old Basilica there

stood a baldachin sixty feet high, and ornamented with all the insignia

of royalty. Four colossal statues, placed at the four corners of a

cenotaph, represented respectively France, dissolved in tears; Europe,

contributing its meed of regret; Hope, guiding the soul of the virtuous

monarch to the abode of everlasting bliss; and Religion, holding in

her hand that last will, the sublime model of charity and pardon. The

nave of the cathedral was entirely covered with one immense hanging of

black, richly embroidered with silver. From each pillar was suspended

the scutcheon of the House of France. Numberless wax candles and tapers

shed a dazzling light across those sombre walls, closed to the orb of

day.

A stand, entirely draped with black velvet, embellished with silver

fringe, had been prepared for the sovereigns. The nave and the choir

were reserved for the specially invited guests, and the lateral parts

of the sacred building for the public.

Long before the hour fixed for the ceremony an immense crowd blocked

up the approaches to the Gothic fane. Every Frenchman in Vienna, no

matter what his rank, had received an invitation, and not one failed.

The Knights of the Golden Fleece and the ambassadors in full Court

dress occupied the foremost rows of the choir. Behind them were all the

notabilities, all the princely guests, and the authorities of the city

of Vienna. A detachment of the regiments of the Guards and another of

the Hungarian Nobiliary Guard were on duty round the catafalque, as

at the funeral of emperors. Emperor Francis himself intended this as

the highest expression of his personal sentiments. In the nave stood a

considerable number of ladies attired in mourning and wrapped in long

crape veils.

At eleven o’clock a blast of trumpets heralded the arrival of the

Emperor Francis, the Emperor of Russia, the Kings of Prussia, Bavaria

and Denmark; of the Queen and of the Empress of Russia. The Empress

of Austria, confined to the palace by ill-health, was the only one

absent from the ceremony. The Prince Léopold de Sicile, as the only

member of the House of Bourbon, and M. de la Tour du Pin stood at the

portals of the cathedral and conducted the sovereigns to the imperial

stand. Immediately afterwards, the celebration began. In spite of

his eighty-four years, the venerable Archbishop of Vienna, Prince de

Hohenwarth, had made it a point to officiate. A profound respect, an

intense and reverent emotion, pervaded the immense assembly at the

sight of the royal sarcophagus and of the white-haired priest praying

for divine pity on the virtuous monarch. It would be difficult to guess

the feelings of all those monarchs, reverently prostrated not far from

the catafalque, recalling such a great misfortune and such a great

event in the history of France. All were more or less related to the

illustrious house of France, the most ancient of Europe.

M. Zaiguelius, vicar of Sainte-Anne in Vienna, and of French origin,

delivered an address in French, noticeable for its many beauties, and

some people pretended that M. Talleyrand was not altogether a stranger

to its composition. The text was, ‘Let the earth know the fear of

the name of the Lord.’ In this very remarkable address, the speaker

was particularly anxious to show the hand of God, which raises up

and overthrows thrones. Then, after the prayers for Louis XVI. and

Marie-Antoinette, he concluded by reciting the principal passages

of the will, which has rightly been called the most heroic code of

charity. This was, in fact, the most beautiful funeral oration of Louis

XVI., and when M. Zaiguelius descended from the pulpit there was not a

dry eye in the place. After this, two hundred and fifty voices sang,

without accompaniment, the ‘Requiem,’ composed by Neukomm, a pupil of

Haydn. The musicians had been reinforced by amateurs; they constituted

two separate choirs, of which one was conducted by Salieri, the

Director of the Imperial Music. Its effect was admirable. Listened to

with the most reverential silence, the hymn of sorrow seemed less a

prayer addressed to Heaven for a virtuous victim than a sequel to the

sublime words of pardon to which we had just listened. The cost of this

funereal solemnity amounted to nearly a hundred thousand florins, and

was entirely defrayed by the Austrian Court.

An express order of the emperor had suspended for that day all the

ordinary entertainments. During the evening there was positively a

crowd in M. de Talleyrand’s drawing-rooms. Everything was most sedate,

as usual, for political discussions were the order of the day there

rather than those connected with fêtes and gaiety. The Polish question

was more than ever to the fore, and apparently as far as ever from

being settled. The incorporation of Poland with his empire had been

the ardent aspiration of Alexander from the very beginning of the

Congress of Vienna. Supported in that claim by the King of Prussia,

to whom, as a set-off, he sacrificed and abandoned Saxony, he had not

reckoned upon any particular resistance; but it became manifest at the

very outset of the discussions that there would be a lively opposition

to this dual spoliation and the kind of bargain it involved. In the

matter of Saxony, both Metternich and Talleyrand strenuously opposed

the overthrow of a prince sincerely beloved by his subjects, and who

during forty years had honoured the throne by his uprightness and by

a combination of many virtues. These two statesmen fostered the hope

that by denying Saxony to Prussia they would contribute to a rupture

between the czar and King Frederick William; and that in consequence of

this the Congress would be enabled to cut an independent Polish kingdom

out of the Grand Duchy of Warsaw. England, which in principle seemed

favourable to the pretensions of Russia and Prussia, had, however, been

persuaded by the arguments of the Austrian Minister and his French

colleague, and had taken sides with them. The discussion became very

envenomed, in spite of the kindly efforts of Prince Razumowski. It was

during one of those stormy conferences that the Grand-Duke Constantine

became very angry with M. de ----. Finally, during another sitting,

Alexander, addressing Lord Castlereagh, had not scrupled to affirm that

at his voice eight millions of Poles would not hesitate to arise in

order to sustain the independence of their country.[100]

Behind this question of Poland there loomed, however, another question

much more important and far-reaching for European equilibrium. Napoleon

had as yet not uttered the famous words, that before fifty years Europe

would be French or Cossack. But already many far-seeing minds had

become alarmed, and not without reason, at seeing Russia assuming the

mastership on the Vistula. With the object of ‘forcing her back towards

her inhospitable climate,’ and of plucking Poland from her domination,

Austria, France, and England made a secret treaty on the 10th of

January 1815. Talleyrand’s influence had determined that compact, for

he already inclined towards an English alliance, to the realisation

of which he looked so hard fifteen years later. That self-same treaty

which the ministers of Louis XVIII. left behind them at the time of

their flight on the 26th March 1815, and which Napoleon promptly

sent to Alexander, was the cause of Alexander’s resentment against

Talleyrand, which was never overcome. It was one of the causes which,

after the second Restoration, kept the French diplomatist away from the

ministry and from public affairs.

Nevertheless, it was supposed that the Grand-Duke Constantine, who had

left Vienna in deference to his brother and master’s will, was only

occupied with reviews and manœuvres, the supposedly exclusive objects

of his passion. Nobody thought of war, and everybody ardently desired

peace. Suddenly there came to Vienna a proclamation addressed by the

Grand-duke to the Polish nation, which was tantamount to an appeal to

arms. This strange manifesto was composed as follows:--

‘To the Polish Army.--His Majesty the Emperor Alexander, your

powerful protector, appeals to you by this. Gather round your

standards, take up arms to defend your country and to maintain

your political existence. While this august monarch prepares the

happy future of your country, show the world that you are ready

to sustain his whole efforts with the price of your blood. The

same chiefs who during the last twenty years have led you on the

road to glory will know how to lead you thither once more. The

emperor is fully cognisant of your valour; amidst many disasters

of a most fatal war he has seen your honour survive events which

in no wise depended upon you. Signal feats of arms conferred

distinction upon you in a struggle the motive of which was foreign

to you; at present, when your efforts are directly devoted to

your country, you will be invincible. Soldiers and warriors of

all arms, be ye the first to give the example of all the virtues

which should inspire your countrymen. A boundless devotion to the

emperor, who has no other aim than the welfare of your country,

an unalterable love for his august person; obedience, discipline,

and courage--these are the means to ensure the prosperity of your

country, which is under the ægis of the emperor. It is only by

those means that you can attain the happy situation which others

may promise you, but which he alone can bestow. His power and his

virtues will be the guarantee of it to you.’

Two points in this document, more than any other, aroused profound

astonishment. The Grand-duke, in inciting the Poles to rally around

his brother the emperor, in soliciting their devotion to his person,

forestalled, as it were, the supreme decision of the Congress. The

question was practically pending before the sovereign tribunal, no

decision whatsoever had been taken, nevertheless Constantine virtually

proclaimed his brother the Protector of Poland. Secondly, what

construction was to be placed on those threats of war, on that appeal

to arms, when the whole of Europe was ostentatiously looking at the

consolidation of a general appeasement? Against whom, then, were the

Poles, guided by the Russians, to take up arms? Against the other

Powers, who refused them their independence? Did Constantine in reality

flatter himself that he was imposing upon the Poles and hoodwinking

them by garbling the truth? Could she (Poland) be blinded by those

protestations in favour of her nationality?

Since the proclamation, denied for a moment, had acquired the stamp

of authenticity, the discussion provoked by it stifled all others. In

Talleyrand’s drawing-room it was the subject of all conversations. He

was known to be a partisan of Saxony and Poland. It was also known

that, together with Metternich, he was the soul of that far-seeing and

imperturbable resistance to Russian projects.

‘Have you read a statement drawn up by M. Pozzo di Borgo in connection

with Poland?’ said M. L---- to a group surrounding him. ‘The political

world is very much concerned about it. The author aims to show that,

for many reasons, this country must not be granted its independence,

but must be entirely incorporated with Russia.’

‘It is but natural,’ was the answer, ‘that M. Pozzo di Borgo should

have posed as the enemy of both the principles and the person of

Napoleon. This is easily conceivable and easily explicable by allowing

for the poison of the Corsican vendetta, which becomes an heirloom

from generation to generation. In his country hatred is a family

inheritance: God alone knows how far it goes back and where it will

end. But what has that ill-fated nation done to M. Pozzo that he should

oppose the good-will shown towards her here?’

‘M. Pozzo defends the cause of the country which adopted him. Employed

by Russia, he has become a Russian.’

‘But is not this carrying devotion to ingratitude? Is it possible,

then, that the recollection of past benefits is denied to the political

writer to such a degree as to make M. Pozzo forget that Prince Adam

Czartoryski virtually “picked him up” on his arrival in Russia; that

he took him and, as it were, guided him to that temple the first

steps of which he aspired to ascend? When M. Pozzo came back from

Constantinople, where his efforts to ingratiate himself with Admiral

Siniavin had been paralysed either by the intrigues or by the real

merit of M. le Comte Capo d’Istria, he was bound to make up at St.

Petersburg for the check he had received at the Bosphorus by a fresh

attempt. Prince Adam was, for the travelling diplomatic apprentice,

a veritable godsend. To write a diatribe against the country of the

prince is tantamount to attacking his own star. From a political point

of view it is, perhaps, very clever. I scarcely care to ask what it is

from an ethical point.’

‘You know that M. Pozzo claims the priority of the idea of having

directed the march of the allied armies on Paris?’

‘Yes; but it is also said that after the event the claim was preferred

by the other prophets. If it had failed, there would doubtless be fewer

oracles to-day.’

‘Well, it is probable that M. Pozzo will go very far before we have

finished with him. To succeed in politics, one must forget family and

country, tread underfoot gratitude, stifle the dearest affections, deny

the principles of one’s life, and at that price only glory and success

come within one’s grasp.’

An untoward fate seemed to dog the sleighing-party projected by the

Austrian Court. It had been postponed several times in consequence

of a change of temperature. One day the cold seemed to promise for

the next the hard and polished surface necessary to those northern

chariots, then a thaw would set in and soften the layer of ice spread

on the earth. Finally, a downright frost began, preceded by an abundant

snowfall, and the imperial promenade was once more fixed. From early

morning an immense crowd gathered on the Josef Platz, where the

sleighs were to meet. Nearly all had been refurbished; those intended

for the emperors and sovereigns were in the form of a _calèche_, and

were decorated with a taste and lavishness productive of the happiest

results. They sparkled with the brightest colours, enhanced with

gold. The cushions, of emerald-coloured velvet, were trimmed with

fringe of the same metal. The harness, displaying the scutcheon of the

imperial house, was hung with silver bells. The sleighs of the high

personages of the Congress and of the Austrian nobility vied both in

richness and elegance with those of the sovereigns: silk, velvet, and

gilding everywhere, while every sleigh was drawn by horses of price,

caparisoned with tiger skins and rich furs, their flowing manes plaited

with knots and ribbons. They were with difficulty kept in hand, the

tinkling of the bells rendering them more spirited than usual, and

anxious to get away with the light loads behind them.

While awaiting the signal to start, the privileged promenaders had

forgathered within the Imperial Palace. At two o’clock the order was

given, and the illustrious company came down, taking their seats,

the sovereigns in accordance with the rule of precedence prevailing

in their case, the others according to the rank determined by mere

chance. To each cavalier a lady is assigned by lot as his companion on

the road. A blast of trumpets is heard, and the procession begins its

march.

A detachment of cavalry comes forward, preceding the sergeants and

sergeants’ caterers of the Court, mounted on richly caparisoned

cattle. They are followed by an immense sleigh drawn by six horses and

containing an orchestra of kettledrums and trumpets. The grand equerry,

Trauttmansdorff, on horseback, and followed by his men-at-arms, comes

afterwards, then immediately after that, the sleighs of the sovereigns.

The first sleigh is that of the Emperor of Austria, piloting the

charming Elizabeth of Russia. In the second was Emperor Alexander with

the Princesse d’Auersberg; then came the King of Prussia with the

Comtesse Julie Zichy, the King of Denmark with the Grande-Duchesse de

Saxe-Weimar, and the Grand-Duke of Baden with the grand-mistress of the

Court, the Comtesse Lazanski. Twenty-four young pages, richly dressed

in mediæval costumes, and a squadron of the Hungarian Nobiliary Guards

provided the escort for the sovereigns’ sledges.

The Empress of Russia was wrapped in a large coat of green velvet

lined with ermine; on her head she wore a toque of the same colour

with an aigrette of diamonds similar to that usually worn by the great

Catherine. The other ladies were equally provided against the cold with

velvet coats of the richest colours; the Grande-Duchesse de Weimar’s

being pink, also trimmed with ermine, a fur which in Austria is

exclusively reserved for personages of royal blood. The other colours

such as purple and amaranth were all relieved by the rarest and most

elegant furs.

Then came the other sledges, to the number of thirty, holding the

principal Court personages and the princely guests for whom this

entertainment had been projected. The procession crossed the city

at only a walking pace, thus enabling the crowd to recognise and to

salute those who in a little while will be carried away at a gallop.

The Archeduc Palatine has by his side the Grande-Duchesse d’Oldenbourg

wrapped in a blue velvet mantle, the shade of which blends most

happily with her charming face. Behind these the Prince Royal of

Würtemberg has for his companion the Princesse de Lichtenstein.

Handsome though his companion is, he does not take his eyes off the

sleigh containing the woman he worships, and he looks as if inclined

to quarrel with fate for having served him so niggardly. Our charming

‘queen,’ as we call the Comtesse Fuchs, has fallen to the lot of the

Prince Guillaume de Prusse. The Prince Léopold de Sicile is with the

Princesse Lubomirska, the Prince Eugène with Mme. Apponyi, the Prince

Royal de Bavière with the Comtesse Sophie Zichy, the Archeduc Charles

with the Comtesse Esterhazy, the Prince Auguste de Prusse with the

Comtesse Batthyany, the Comte François Zichy with Lady Castlereagh, the

Comte de Wurbna with the Comtesse Walluzen, the Duc de Saxe-Cobourg

with the handsome Rosalie Rzewuska. The dresses of all those ladies

were elegant beyond description; the men wore Polish coats trimmed with

the most beautiful fur.

After that followed a squadron of grooms wearing the imperial livery;

then the procession was closed by several reserve sleighs and another

huge six-horsed sledge carrying a band dressed in Turkish uniforms and

playing warlike tunes. After having slowly traversed the principal

streets of Vienna, the procession ranges itself in two lines, and at a

signal the horses start at a gallop on the road to Schönbrunn.

In a few moments, the magnificent line of sleighs reaches its first

stage. As, however, there had been some slight contretemps with

those frail ‘turn-outs,’ there was a half-way halt near the monument

erected to King John Sobieski for his deliverance of Austria. It is a

triangular pyramid constructed on the very spot where the Grand Vizier

Kara-Mustapha had erected his tent during the siege. When the brilliant

string of sleighs had vanished from our eyes, there was a unanimous

cry of admiration from the numerous spectators at the unique beauty of

the sight. The fact of so many illustrious personages being brought

to the spot was considered as worthy of admiration as the magnificence

and pomp displayed by the Austrian Court and noblesse. Of course it

required a solemn function like the Congress to rally so many crowned

heads, celebrities of all kinds, and remarkable women. It was, indeed,

a picture which for many centuries will not be repeated.

The Empress of Austria, the King and Queen of Bavaria, besides several

other personages in far from robust health, who feared the cold, had

gone to Schönbrunn in closed carriages. A magnificent fête had been

prepared and many invitations issued. The return was to take place

at night and by torchlight. After the banquet to which all those who

made up the sleighing party were invited, the principal Viennese

actors presented one of the prettiest pieces of the French stage, the

_Cendrillon_ of M. Étienne, which had been translated into German. A

grand ball was to wind up the entertainment. The Prince Koslowski, the

Comte de Witt, and I repaired betimes to Schönbrunn.

The sleighs on their arrival formed into a circle around the frozen

lake of Schönbrunn, which was like a polished mirror, and was covered

by skaters in the most elegant costumes of the various countries of

Northern Europe. The scene was very animated, with the various sledges

in the shape of swans, gondolas, etc., and reminded one of a Dutch

kermesse, especially in respect to the itinerant vendors of fortifying

drinks patronised by the energetic performers. The picture was in

reality unique in virtue of the various servants in livery, both on

foot and on horseback, and the sleighs of the Court itself, not to

mention the enormous crowds of spectators who had come all the way from

Vienna.

A young man attached to the English embassy, Sir Edward W----, a member

of the London skating-club, and accustomed to astonish the promenaders

in Hyde Park on the Serpentine, executed some wonderful feats in the

way of figures, pirouettes, and single and double curling. Like the

Chevalier de St. George, who on the pond at Versailles traced the name

of Marie-Antoinette, Sir Edward traced the monograms of the queens,

the empresses, and other female celebrities, who left their sleighs

to admire his skill. Others, less perfect than he, no doubt, but very

skilful nevertheless, performed Chinese and European dances, including

a waltz. The latter was danced by two Dutch ladies in the picturesque

dresses of Saardam milkmaids, to the applause and admiration of

everybody.

I may dispense with a description of the theatre: it was dazzling as

usual, but the aspect of the adjacent rooms was truly delightful. The

rarest plants of the imperial green-houses--myrtles, orange-trees in

full bloom--hid the walls of the staircases, the vestibules, and the

ball-rooms; it was a decoration all the more appreciated in virtue

of the temperature outside. After the performance of _Cendrillon_,

to which some gracefully designed ballets had been added, the crowd

repaired to those drawing-rooms, where the perfume and the variety of

the flowers reminded us of the most clement season of the year. They

only went through a few polonaises.

‘I am bound to admit,’ said Comte de Witt, ‘that this sleighing party

has been a beautiful, marvellous, and elegant affair, even to us

Russians, who are accustomed to that kind of magnificence. I also admit

that this fête, recalling as it does the spring, is equally worthy of

the rest. In truth, at the pace we are proceeding with our amusements,

it will not be surprising if surfeit breed disgust. Nevertheless, in

order to add something new to all that has been offered to us, and

to complete this winter fête, they ought to have constructed on the

Schönbrunn lake a palace of ice to receive and entertain our royal

company.’

‘Entirely of ice, general?’

‘Yes, like that which Empress Anne constructed on the Neva. But you,

who have lived in St. Petersburg, did you never hear of that fête?’

‘No.’

‘There was at Anne’s Court a Prince de G----, who had practically

become its jester. The empress wished to get him married, and they

chose him a wife more or less likely to fall in with his eccentric

habits. In order fitly to celebrate the nuptials, they constructed, as

I told you, a palace of ice on the Neva. The columns, the walls, the

wainscoting, the furniture in the interior, such as the tables, the

lustres, and even the bed of the newly-married couple, was absolutely

of frozen water, shaped by cunning artificers. In order to give

more variety to this extraordinary construction, blocks of coloured

chiselled ice had been employed in the ornamentation of the structure.

When sumptuous carpets had been spread in the apartments, and thousands

of wax tapers had been lighted, the Court repaired in sleighs to

this fantastic place, and the fête commenced. Cossack dances to the

strangest music were performed, then there was a supper, partaken of by

ever so many guests. In the midst of the banquet four Cossacks brought

in with great pomp a whole ox with gilded horns, which had been roasted

on the ice in the court of the palace. After having made the round of

the table, this monstrous roast was given to the servants. Then came

the moment for putting the newly-married couple to bed; the signal was

given with a salvo of artillery from ordnance made of ice.

‘Up to that moment everything had gone well with poor G---- and his

wife. But when they had been undressed and put to bed, and the ice

began to melt around them, their gestures and countenances were not in

the least expressive of the tender passion, whether hallowed or not.

And as, according to ancient usage, all this was taking place in the

presence of the Court, they did not dare to leave their couch, and

were by no means pleased with this bit of imperial recreation. Save

the wedding-ceremony, however, the tradition of this extraordinary and

magnificent palace has been kept up to the present day, and I am sorry

the members of the fêtes-committee did not revive the spectacle of an

immense castle built of ice.’

While Comte de Witt was telling me all this, I had caught sight

of Prince Eugène by himself, and I went up to him. With his usual

kindness, he reminded me of my not having been to see him for a long

while, although we had frequently met at our friend Comtesse Laura’s.

Wherever Prince Eugène was compelled to appear, his calm dignity

never forsook him; and in spite of his equivocal situation at Vienna,

he made many, many friends. I have already touched upon Emperor

Alexander’s sincere affection for him, a friendship redounding to the

honour of the deposed prince and the powerful emperor. This friendship

and interest of the czar extended to Queen Hortense. Knowing her

impulsive disposition, and how much she stood in need now and again of

disinterested advice, Alexander had despatched to Paris a diplomatic

agent, named Boutiakine, with the mission to take care of her, and to

guide her in all things.

Eugène had just received some letters from this cherished sister, who

appeared to have inherited all the feminine graces of her mother.

Hortense fully unbosomed her griefs, which at that moment were very

poignant. The family dissensions, the death of her mother, the threat

of being deprived of her children, everything seemed to aggravate the

loss of her brilliant position. The prince, in mentioning all these,

could scarcely restrain his emotion; and from that moment I promised

myself to make those confidences a passport to the friendship of the

woman to whom the loss of a crown seemed the least of sorrows. My wish

was realised later on, not in Paris, as I had hoped, but in the spot

which at the time served her as an asylum. It was in 1819, when she was

in exile. I had just returned from Poland, where I had spent several

years, and was preparing to go back to France. Being at Augsburg, I was

informed that she, who no longer bore any other title than that of the

Duchesse de Saint-Leu, was living there. In days gone by she had set

some of my romances to music. The latter circumstance, together with

the good-will shown to me by her brother during the Congress of Vienna,

emboldened me to request the honour of being presented to her; her

immediate answer virtually enhanced the favour accorded.

At that time I only knew Queen Hortense by repute, and from the

frequent allusions to her made by her brother; but from the very first

it seemed to me that I was meeting with an old friend after a long

absence, and that I was indebted for her cordial welcome to the bonds

of an old friendship. Everything in her harmonised perfectly--the sweet

expression of her features, her conversation, the gentleness of her

voice and of her character. Every kind and affectionate word that fell

from her lips was all the more precious, inasmuch as it was dictated

solely by her heart; she imparted such animation to her pictures as to

imbue the spectator with the idea of being an actor in, or at least

a looker-on at, the real scene. She had a kind of personal magic in

communicating information and in fascinating those with whom she came

in contact, and that artless power of seduction took deep root in

people’s hearts.

It was during the short moments of a confidential conversation that

I was enabled to judge of her absolutely genuine qualities. She was

deeply moved at all the memories of the past, but one idea--the

insatiable craving for another glimpse of France, seemed uppermost.

During the evening tea was served. ‘It’s a custom I brought back with

me from Holland,’ she said, ‘but do not suppose that it is in order to

remind me of that brilliant and, alas, so far distant period.’

Several visitors came from the immediate neighbourhood, others from

Munich. They were cordially welcomed, and she felt, no doubt, flattered

by the consideration with which she was treated, inasmuch as that

consideration could be due to esteem only, and not to intrigues or

adulation, of which she felt so weary both at Saint Cloud and at the

Hague. During the evening she showed me some good pictures by painters

of the various schools, and a collection of art objects which had

been considerably increased by that left by her mother. The majority

of those brilliant trifles were connected with certain periods and

celebrated people, and they might well have been called a summary of

modern history. After that we had some music. The duchesse sang to

her own accompaniment, and she put as much soul into her singing as

into the compositions themselves. She had just finished a series of

drawings for her ballads, and the next morning she sent me the pretty

collection, which time will render all the more precious.

At midnight I took my leave, without much hope of seeing her again.

But that particular day will for ever be stamped on my memory. It is a

pleasure to pay one’s homage of respect to fallen grandeur, when, as in

Hortense’s case, natural and amiable genius is added to the fascination

of a kindly nature.

Meanwhile the sleighing-fête was over, and a blast of trumpets gave the

signal for the return to Vienna. Wrapt in their cloaks, the illustrious

guests proceeded towards the court of the palace. Ranged in two lines,

their sleighs were waiting for them. Everybody resumed the position of

the morning. A martial strain gave the signal for the start, and the

vehicles disappeared at a gallop, leaving on the horizon a trail of

light across the snow and the hoar frost of the trees.

While the palace of Schönbrunn was the scene of these intoxicating

pleasures, how were those occupied to whom it represented only a

prison? Avoiding all contact with the joyous guests of the Congress,

Marie-Louise and her son preferred to get away from a pleasure party

which could only awaken sad recollections. Early in the morning,

they departed in sleighs to the smiling valley of St. Helena, near

Schönbrunn, where they passed the day--the empress offering dinner

to her small Court--and returned to Schönbrunn in the evening. A

strange coincidence of names between the valley of St. Helena where

Marie-Louise went to hide her grief, and that famous island, also

called St. Helena, where her husband, a few months later, buried both

his glory and his disasters.

The next morning the Emperor of Austria made a present to Alexander

of the gilded sleigh in which the latter had ridden. To show his

appreciation of the gift, the czar had it carefully packed and sent

to St. Petersburg. The expenses of that sleighing-party and the fête

following it were estimated at three hundred thousand florins. Many

years have passed since that joyous period of the Congress of Vienna.

Many of those whom I saw so gaily carried away by the tinkling-belled

coursers have been pitilessly carried away since then by relentless

death. How many perished before their time! Emperor Alexander, whose

courtesy and youthful spirit were the life of all those parties; the

Emperor of Austria; the Kings of Prussia and Bavaria; Prince Eugène,

so kind and cordial--all are lying in their graves. The Empress

of Austria, so graceful, and such a beneficent friend to art; the

charming Elizabeth of Russia; her sister-in-law, the Grande Duchesse

d’Oldenbourg; the Comtesse Julie Zichy; Madame de Fuchs--all were

taken away as prematurely as unexpectedly. How many other women in the

zenith of their beauty, whose grace enhanced those gatherings, followed

them when their life was scarcely more than half run! And among

the political or military notabilities, de Wrède, Schwartzenberg,

Talleyrand, Castlereagh, Dalberg, Capo d’Istria, besides the friends so

dear to my affection, such as Koslowski, Ypsilanti, de Witt! In truth,

the almost imperceptible track of the sleigh gliding on the polished

snow was the image of our rapid passage, or rather of our short-lived

apparition, on this earth.

Anecdotal Recollections of the Congress of Vienna · 第 15 / 21 章