_1862-1864. DEVONPORT. CALCUTTA_
Paris--Versailles--Champ de Mars--An incident--Rouen--Proceed to
India--Calcutta--A _mélange_ of subjects--Continued--A painful
incident--State trial--Sea transport--General events--43rd
Regiment--More “news”--Scenes revisited--A rough journey--Hill
coolies--Darjeeling--Sinchal--Nunsook--Rungeet--Pilgrims--Locusts--
A happy event--Death of Lord Elgin--Agricultural Exhibition--
Sittana--Spring sickness--Sanitary Commission formed--General
news--Indigo--Cyclone--History of “Masterly inactivity.”
Administrative duties in the Western Military District of England, of
which Devonport was, and still is, the Headquarters, were peaceful,
and so contrasted with events during the past few years, as already
recorded. In due time--the first for several years--I applied for and
obtained the usual two months’ leave accorded annually to officers
serving at home. With my wife I proceeded to Paris, where time passed
agreeably and profitably in visiting places of historical, artistic,
and scientific interest, and in exploring public buildings and
monuments with which that very beautiful city abounds.
On that occasion the French capital was _en fête_, the King of Holland
being on a visit to Napoleon the Third; military displays on a grand
scale the order of the day. One such display being arranged to take
place at Versailles, we joined the crowds proceeding thither from St.
Lazare. Having visited the château and its surroundings, we had the
opportunity, while in the latter, of meeting the young Prince Imperial,
then little more than seven years old, as he rode a small pony,
accompanied and guarded by a group of attendants. Within the château we
visited the various salons open to the public, among them the Salon de
la Guerre and Grande Galerie des Glaces, little thinking as we did so
that they were to be revisited under very different circumstances.
An important “function,” at which we “assisted,” was a grand review
at the Champ de Mars, where 40,000 troops paraded for the purpose,
accompanied by an imposing military train, and an efficient-looking
pontoon train. The precision with which the various battalions and
other bodies of troops took up their assigned positions was striking,
giving to a looker-on the impression of a high state of efficiency.
With the Champ de Mars I was to become unpleasantly acquainted eight
years subsequently.
During our visit an incident took place which may be mentioned in
these notes. While at the _table d’hôte_[243] one morning I got into
conversation with a lady whose seat adjoined my own. In the course of
talk the subject of the late expedition to China being alluded to, she
mentioned the name of the officer whose death at Hong-Kong has been
already recorded. I related to her some of the particulars already
given, among others his request that I should destroy the mysterious
parcel, and the fulfilment by me of that his dying request. As I did
so, the lady seemed surprised; she informed me that her daughter, then
seated at her left side, had been engaged to Captain M----, and she
doubted not that the parcel in question contained the letters of the
fair _fiancée_, whose health had given way, and on whose account both
were now travelling.
A short but very pleasant visit over, I took leave of the fascinating
capital, little thinking of the conditions under which my acquaintance
with it was to become more intimate a few years thereafter. On our
homeward journey a short stay was made at Rouen. To us that city had
several points of interest, including its traditional association
with the closing scene in the life of Joan of Arc, with its attendant
barbarities; and as the capital whence William started on his conquest
of England, the Caserne de Bonnes Nouvelles now occupying the site of
the palace where Matilda received “the good news” of that conquest.
Interesting also in that its cathedral contains the heart of Richard
Cœur de Lion, together with a monument to that monarch. But the edifice
which seemed to us the architectural gem was the church of St. Ouen,
dating, it was said, from A.D. 533, and in its present form from 1318;
with its numerous windows of stained glass, its western portal and
arcade, its sculptured vase, from the surface of the “holy” water
contained in which a reflected view is seen of the roof through its
entire extent, including the exquisite workmanship of its ornamentation.
Returned to duty at Devonport, an intimation soon reached me that I
was again to proceed on foreign service. A few days sufficed to make
the necessary arrangements for my dear wife, who, with the children,
must be left behind. Then came in quick succession orders to embark
for Calcutta; then the very painful ordeal of leave-taking; then
embarkation at Southampton on board the P. and O. ss. _Ripon_,
September 4, 1862, and away from England for a sixth tour abroad.
Arrived at Calcutta, I was appointed to administrative charge of the
Presidency and Benares divisions, the duties connected with the former
including charge of the office of Inspector-General, and inspections
of all ships arriving or departing with troops, all those combined
functions being of a much more arduous nature than at the time I was
able to appreciate.
The cold season had set in, and with its advent the usual influx of
higher officials to the Indian capital. Lord Elgin, recently appointed
Governor-General, carried with him sympathetic feeling towards those
who had lately served in China, and in this spirit extended his
civility to myself, as to some others who had but lately arrived.
It was while partaking of Viceregal hospitality that I met Admiral
Sir James Hope, who had given such material help to the hospital for
Chinese we had established at Tientsin. With him I discussed the
question mooted in China of establishing at Nagasaki a sanatorium for
invalid soldiers and sailors employed at various places on, and in
vessels off, the coast; but, as I think unfortunately for both those
classes, the proposal never came to anything.
The unusual _mélange_ of subjects which gave rise to comment in
Calcutta at the same time was in its way remarkable. The ex-King
of Delhi had very recently died at Rangoon. The King of Greece was
reported to have abdicated, and together with his queen fled from his
kingdom. A crisis had occurred in Prussia. The Emperor of Austria was
about to be crowned as King of Hungary. In America, a Proclamation
had declared the emancipation of the slaves, various reports reaching
us of threatened risings and other complications as outcomes of that
measure. In the columns of some English journals, strong comments with
regard to British policy in China in taking military action against
the Taiping rebels. In Japan, a revolution, the city of Yedo destroyed
by the insurgents. In the Straits of Corea, the Russians induced to
abandon the island, of which they had quietly taken possession during
the earlier stages of the Anglo-French expedition against China.
Garibaldi wounded; a consultation of surgeons as to whether the bullet
was in the wound or not--one would think, not a very difficult enigma
to solve by men of experience in the field. The coming of age of the
Prince of Wales, together with the honours and promotions announced on
that auspicious occasion. The nomination of Prince Alfred to the throne
of Greece. The proposed mediation by France between the Northern and
Southern States of America, and failure of that attempt. The endeavours
made to diminish as far as possible difficulties into which Lancashire
weavers had fallen. Such are a few of the outside matters to which
conversation in Calcutta was directed.
Among those more nearly connected with India was the report contained
in the home papers of the Court-Martial--at the time notorious--having
reference to the circumstances under which the death took place of the
Sergeant-Major of the 6th Dragoons at Mhow. A very unpleasant incident
at a Service Club was the subject of comment; the action taken with
regard to it by the officer in chief command being discussed in terms
more energetic than flattering. Towards the end of the cold season the
ceremony took place of consecrating the well at Cawnpore into which
were thrown the victims of the saddest of all sad episodes connected
with the Mutiny of 1857.
There seemed to be a lull in the current of events in India; but not
in those relating to various European nations, and to America. The
insurrection which for some time past has been in progress in Poland
was said to have assumed increased proportions. In England, the
approaching marriage of the Prince of Wales was the subject of loyal
excitement throughout the country. In America renewed endeavours to
bring about cessation of the Civil War had so far proved futile.
With the advance of the hot season came the usual influx of sick
officers from the interior, on their way home if possible, or to
be treated in the hospital provided for their care by the Indian
Government. Among them the story of one was very sad, and at the
same time illustrative of that of many others. Brought to a hotel,
together with his wife, a girl in age, he was found, when first seen
by a medical officer, to be dying, consciousness all but gone; his
wife unaware of his actual condition; both without friend or even
acquaintance in Calcutta. There was no time for delay or ceremony. I
accordingly informed her at once how desperate was his state, asking at
the same time if she knew what was the position of his worldly affairs.
Her reply: “Not more than the child unborn.” I led her to the couch of
the expiring man, and asked directly, “Where is your will?” He muttered
rather than intelligibly expressed a reply, which seemed, however, to
give his young wife the requisite indication. Within an hour thereafter
he was dead. The widow and her infant had to be left for the time being
in the apartment immediately adjoining that in which lay the corpse of
her husband, until, with the Indian hospitality of that day, a resident
family were communicated with, and sent their carriage for her and her
infant; both of whom were cared for until arrangements were completed,
and the bereaved ones some weeks thereafter sailed for England.
A good deal of talk was current in reference to two noted State trials
of chiefs who had taken an active part in murders and other atrocities
committed in connection with the Mutiny, but who had only recently come
within the clutches of the law, notably at Lucknow and Bombay. At this
time emissaries of the Nana were believed to be actively at work, the
general impression being that he was alive and in Nepaul, whence he
continued to issue instructions to sympathisers.
The near prospect of the canal across the Isthmus of Suez being
completed, as well as some other considerations, led to a
reconsideration by the authorities of the general question relating
to the transport of troops between England and India, and _vice
versâ_. Experience had recently shown the inconvenience and military
objections against the long sea route _via_ the Cape, including the
long period during which to all intents and purposes troops in transit
are non-effective. Statistics had so far been unfavourable in regard to
the results obtained by sending to hill “sanatoria” soldiers suffering
from organic illness. These circumstances were deemed of sufficient
importance to justify inquiry into the whole matter, the outcome of the
investigation being a scheme in accordance with which a line of Indian
troopships was some time thereafter established.
Several circumstances combined to occupy public as well as official
attention. The death of Dost Mahomed was followed by fratricidal wars
between his sons; these conflicts were to continue during the next
few years, and become historically interesting because of the policy
of “masterly inactivity” observed towards the contending parties.
Relations between England and Russia were in a strained condition; with
Japan so unsatisfactory that the dispatch thither of a military force
was contemplated. A certain amount of excitement was kept alive by
rumours, more or less plausible, that the Nana was alive and active;
first one suspect and then another was captured, but only to be set at
liberty by judicial authority.
The dispatch of the 43rd Light Infantry for service in New Zealand
was in Calcutta looked upon as quite an important event; arrangements
for transport presented no difficulty whatever, but it was impossible
to provide the regiment with equipment of a kind suitable for the
service on which they were proceeding, for however well adapted for
the circumstances of India is that authorized by regulations of the
country, it is ill adapted for others in which camels and elephants as
beasts of burthen are unobtainable.
From different parts of India came reports of disaffection,
while from some, including Sittana, came accounts of actual
outbreaks--_fanatical_, they were called. Early in October information
reached us that under Admiral Kuper the British fleet had opened fire
upon and destroyed the forts at Kagosima, though not without heavy loss
to his own officers and men. Orders had been issued in England for the
dispatch of reinforcements thither, and instructions to the same effect
have been received by the Government of India.
In course of duty I visited the several stations within the divisions
already named at which British troops were quartered, renewing
acquaintance with places formerly well known, and connected with which
were various associations, pleasant and otherwise. Of such places
were the jungle road leading from Arrah to Jugdispore, so familiar in
connection with service there; Beehea, where our force was suddenly
attacked by Koer Singh’s rebel sepoys; Jounpore, through the streets of
which city in dead of night our field force marched towards what proved
to be a somewhat severe action at Teegra, listening as we proceeded
to the sound of “grinders” at their “mills,” by which alone silence
was broken; Azimghur, with the compound in which under fire from sepoy
rifles we bivouacked, the line of march, and scene of action by our
force against the besieging mutineers.
On that tour of inspection duty the journey from Dinapore to Darjeeling
was attended by incidents of which the following are examples:--A
hitch and consequent delay in regard to transit arrangements; several
hours by railway train; a night spent in a wattle-and-daub hut called
a dâk bungalow; twenty odd miles by steamer on the Ganges; starting by
palanqueen; a break-down; return on foot several miles to the place
whence I had so proceeded; delay and trouble in obtaining another
conveyance of the same kind; another start; a short rest in the house
of a hospitable civil servant; then on by raised causeway through a
long tract of swampy ground; rowed across a broad nullah, and then
the land journey resumed. After a little the discovery was made that
the carrier of the luggage had dropped out of sight, nor could his
whereabouts be discovered. On arriving at the “stage” where a relay of
bearers was expected, there were none in waiting; the old ones heavily
bribed continued, but at a slow pace, with many intervals to rest and
indulge in smoking. Two more stages had to be got over in much the same
manner, and then on reaching the rest house at the foot of the ascent
towards Darjeeling, no provision whatever had been made for progress
onward. Starting on foot, some four or five miles were got over, when
meeting a native leading a small horse, or tat, bare backed, without
halter or other substitute than a rope around its neck, I mounted
the animal, but unable to guide it, had to resume walking, and so in
time got over twenty out of the thirty miles that separate Punkabaree
from the popular hill station. Railway transit between Calcutta and
Darjeeling was in the far future.
In the near vicinity of Darjeeling numerous hillmen were employed
improving and remodelling the road along which my walk lay. The
general aspect presented by them was miserable and unpleasant. Tartar
in feature and costume, the majority distinguished by _queue_ or
“pigtail”; many affected with goitre, others with large foul ulcers on
legs or feet, unprotected by dressing of any kind,--the ulcers said to
result from wounds inflicted by a poisonous fly abundantly met with
here and hereabout.
In the early hours of the following morning a magnificent view of the
snowy range, including the peaks of Mount Everest and Kinchinjunga was
obtained, all reflecting brilliantly the first rays of sunlight, but
later on becoming obscured by mist.
An experimental station for troops had some few years previously been
established at Sinchal, situated on a mountain spur about a thousand
feet higher than Darjeeling itself. Thither I went in course of duty,
but only to learn how hateful the place was to officers and men
quartered there, isolated, and for the most part concealed in cloud
or mist as it was, the atmosphere damp, cold, and chilly. That the
experiment was a failure was evident, but some time had yet to elapse
before it was so acknowledged officially, and abandoned.
Situated in a deep valley, ten or twelve miles from Darjeeling, and at
a level of four thousand feet below that station, are the mineral wells
of Nunsook; the intervening spurs and ranges for the most part under
cultivation with tea, coffee, or cinchona. Between us and the wells the
Rungnoo River rushed in curling foam along its rocky bed, leaping as
it went, as a cascade of considerable height and volume. Crossing that
stream by a wooden bridge, then ascending among the rocks to a little
distance, we reached the object of our journey. So deep and narrow is
the mountain rent in which the chalybeate spring issues from the rock,
that sunlight reaches it during no more than two hours daily. In its
immediate neighbourhood was a hut in which a few British soldiers were
accommodated, also “experimentally” to test the beneficial qualities of
the spring. No wonder that they wished themselves with their regiment,
or anywhere except at the well of Nunsook.
Another excursion was to the valley of the Rungeet River, some fourteen
miles distant from Darjeeling, and forming the boundary between
British India and Sikkim. The descent is steep; as we proceeded we met
numbers of hillmen toiling upwards, bearing heavy loads in _kalbas_
or baskets upon their backs--women were similarly engaged--the goods
so carried consisting in a great part of borax, spices, and other
“fragrant” substances, including asafœtida,--some of the people so fair
that a rosy tint was on their faces. As we descended into the deep
and narrow valley the snowy range, at first so prominent an object,
became lost to view, precipices shut us in on either side, trees of
great size rising from ledges or projecting from crevices. The Rungeet
rushed as a large green-coloured stream along its rugged bed, at short
intervals curling in white foam as it eddied around rocks or leaped
in cascades over ledges; at a short distance from where we now were
it joins the Rungnoo, the united stream so formed being the Teesta,
which finally discharges itself into the Brahmapootra. Crossing the
Rungeet by what seemed a very frail and unsteady bridge of cane,[244]
we arrived in Sikkim, the span of the construction by which we did so
being two hundred feet, the roaring torrent rushing beneath us. Such
was the character of one part of the sphere in which in 1861 military
operations had to be conducted against that region, including the
transport of guns and supplies.
The return journey from Darjeeling was in some respects little less
unpleasant than that to it had been. Arrived at Raneegunge, it became
necessary to proceed towards the station of Hazarabagh, and for that
purpose to take “garry” along some part of the Grand Trunk Road,
by which in 1859 I had marched with the 10th Foot when _en route_
for England. In the course of that journey crowds of pilgrims were
encountered, each bearing upon his forehead the distinctive mark of
the Hindoo sect to which he belonged, and carrying the pilgrim’s gourd
so familiar to us in mediæval pictures; all were devout in aspect and
manner; some performing penance by crawling on hands and knees--a mode
of progression by which the distance daily got over by them was said to
be about one mile. And yet the majority of them had come from Ajudiah
(Fyzabad), and were on their way to Juggurnath.
Two days thereafter I traversed a flight of locusts. Seen from a
distance the mass looked somewhat like a snow shower in a clear
sunshiny day, the apparent breadth of the flight over a mile, its
length six or eight; the road and bare soil on either side completely
covered by those that had fallen or alighted; the sound made by those
still on the wing distinct and rustling. The conditions alluded to in
this and the preceding paragraph illustrate those which existed while
railways were in their early stages.
The arrival of my beloved wife on December 13 was an event to be
chronicled, though for the time being a boarding-house was the
substitute for the _home_ to which I could take her. Like so many other
ladies similarly situated, she had to place her children at school
as best she could, and then take leave of them to join her husband
in India. The necessity of so parting with one’s children is one of
the greatest drawbacks of service in India, or indeed anywhere in the
tropics; it is lamented by all who are affected by it, and by none
more than by ourselves. And yet it is unavoidable. Various instances
illustrative of unsatisfactory results arising out of this necessity
occur to the mind of most men of experience, not the least being that
sons and daughters are thrown more or less at haphazard upon those
whose method and manner of training is destined to determine the style
of their own lives and the relations in which they are to stand with
their parents.
The somewhat sudden death of Lord Elgin, while on tour, was followed
by very general expression of sympathy; among those who had been
associated with him in China, and so had opportunities of estimating
his amiable and upright character, the sentiment was one of regret and
esteem. But in India, as elsewhere--_le Roi est mort; Vive le Roi_.
Sir John Lawrence arrived from England ere many weeks were over; was
received by a guard of honor; duly sworn in, and matters official
proceeded in their ordinary course.
For the first time, and as an experiment, an Agricultural Exhibition
was organized and took place. The variety of animals brought from all
parts of British India was great; so was that of native contributors
and visitors; but there was reason to believe that lively interest on
the part of the latter was sadly lacking; they thought of the entire
proceeding in the light of a mere _tomashah_, or “hubbub,” and nothing
more.
In the further north,--namely, on the Sittana frontier,--the “rising”
among some tribes of that region had just been suppressed; that
favourable end attained in part by means of a military expedition, in
part by persuasion, otherwise diplomacy.
Experience had long taught residents in Lower Bengal that the period
of early spring is that when cholera is most to be dreaded, alike in
respect to the suddenness of its attack and its fatality. The 55th
Regiment, recently arrived and temporarily encamped at Raneegunge,
became somewhat severely attacked by that scourge. Various instances of
sudden death occurred from the same cause among old Calcutta residents,
and the health of others began to droop; among them my wife.
Soon after the direct government of India had been assumed by the
Crown, a Royal Commission was appointed to inquire into sanitary
questions relating chiefly to the British troops in that dependency,
and also to the native population, whether in cities, villages, or
rural districts; their deliberations were necessarily protracted.
In due course their report was published, and now the new
Governor-General issued the necessary orders for the appointment, in
Calcutta, of a Commission to give effect to their recommendations,
familiarly referred to as the Thirty-nine Articles, that being their
number. On that Commission I was appointed to serve.[245] It began
its labours with enthusiasm, in the belief that by measures to be
recommended by it the havoc by sickness and death to which our troops
had been subject during the long period of our hold on India were to
be materially lessened, their condition generally improved. At this
date the number of soldiers required to fill the vacancies so caused
amounted to 240 per week, and this we hoped to reduce considerably.
Among the Wahabees[246] of India there existed widespread spirit of
disaffection, Patna and Dacca being two important centres of its
propagation. From Europe came news of war between Denmark on the one
hand, Austria and Prussia on the other; the combined armies being
in occupation of Schleswig. That America had claimed from England
indemnity for losses inflicted by the _Alabama_[247] on the plea that
as “290” she was built in a British dockyard. The request of the Pekin
Government for British officers to act against the Taipings being
acceded to, the list of those so “lent” included the name of Major C.
G. Gordon, R.E., whose remarkable career had thus its starting point.
From New Zealand came, unhappily, news of misfortune to the regiment
recently dispatched from Calcutta to take part against the Maoris.
On the invitation of a friend[248] we proceeded to his indigo factory,
and so had an opportunity of obtaining some interesting particulars
with regard to that industry, the actual origin of which in India,
seems to have been due to civil servants of the East India Company.
South America is the region to which the growth and manufacture of
the plant and dye originally pertained. When introduced into India,
the cultivators grew it simply at the request of the civilian in
his particular district, and for the profit of the latter; after a
time overseers were employed, but as in those days the presence of
“interlopers” was discouraged by the local government, the class of
persons employed was not such as to exert upon the natives that moral
influence which would have been beneficial as it was desirable. This
state of things after a time gave place to a better; the presence
of adventurers, as all who belonged not to the Indian service were
called, had to be recognised, and so the indigo industry fell into
the hands of men belonging to the middle class of British society.
Then came what has ever since been looked upon as class legislation,
the effect of which is considered to have been friction and disaccord
between cultivators and planters.
One of the most severe hurricanes recorded in this part of India
occurred on the night of October 7; the devastation caused by it on
land, at sea, and in the river Hooghly, being great and extensive. Off
Calcutta ships were driven from their moorings and wrecked; in some
instances in tiers. So high did the storm-wave rise that the river
overflowed the high embankment, carrying with it one or two vessels,
one of which was left stranded near the Botanic Gardens; many houses
were damaged, some completely destroyed; trees in all directions were
prostrated, among them the once famous “duelling tree,” under the shade
of which in early morning “meetings” took place in days not long past,
and “honour” was satisfied--at the distance of twelve paces.
Regarding hurricanes, the first of which definite record is available
swept over Calcutta in 1737. An extremely violent one happened in 1821,
on which occasion the storm-wave covered Saugor Island, destroying
immense numbers of people, cattle, and wild animals. Another took place
in 1842, then in 1851, and now in 1864, indicating something like a
cycle, varying from eleven to thirteen years between their occurrence.
The significance of some among the public events alluded to in the
preceding notes transpired in years subsequent to their actual
occurrence; the following brief summary relating to the chief
performers in that drama is accordingly given here. From the death
of Dost Mahomed,[249] in June, 1863, till September, 1868, his third
son, Sheer Ali Khan, who, with the sanction of the Government of
India, succeeded him on the throne of Affghanistan, passed through
a very stormy time. His two elder brothers, Afzul and Azim, and his
nephew, Abdur Rahman (the present ruler), were in revolt against
him. His favourite son and heir-apparent, Ali Khan, was killed in
action in 1865. In 1866 he was defeated near Ghazni by Abdar Rahman,
who released his father, Afzul, from prison, into which he had been
cast by Sheer Ali, led him in triumph to Cabul, and proclaimed him
Amir of Affghanistan. Afzul at once wrote to the Government of India,
expressing a hope that as such the friendship of the British would be
extended to him. He was informed in reply that the Government of Sir
John Lawrence recognised him only as Ruler of Cabul; that as Sheer
Ali held Kandahar and Herat, existing engagements with the latter
could not be broken off. Afzul and Azim thereupon directed the Waziri
chiefs in attendance at Court, together with the envoy, who had come
from Swat to pay respects to the new Amir, to set on foot a holy war
against the English, while an emissary was sent on a secret mission to
Russia. In 1867 Sheer Ali was again defeated near Khelat-i-Ghilsie,
and lost Kandahar. On this fact being communicated to the Government
of India, Afzul Khan was in his turn recognised as Amir of Cabul and
Kandahar, Sir John Lawrence at the same time informing him that the
British Government intended to maintain a strict neutrality between
the contending parties in Affghanistan. This policy on the part of the
Governor-General was at the time called, often in sarcastic terms,
“masterly inactivity.”[250] Under the circumstances of the time,
such public opinion as found expression in Calcutta approved of the
policy in question. But neither to Afzul nor Azim was that policy
satisfactory. They sent a copy of the letter conveying the decision
of Sir John Lawrence to the Russian Governor of Tashkend, who was
informed by Afzul that he had no confidence in the “Lord Sahib’s” fine
professions of friendship; that he was disgusted with the British
Government for the ingratitude and ill-treatment shown towards his
brother Azim, who, it was asserted, had encouraged his father, Dost
Mahomed Khan, not to disturb the Peshawur frontier during the Mutiny.