_1860. DEVONPORT. HONG-KONG_
Ordered to China--Embark--“Overland” route--Alexandria--Cairo--
Desert--Suez--Red Sea--Aden--Galle--Across the Bay--Penang--Baron
Gros and Lord Elgin--Hong-Kong.
On April 26 I had the unlooked-for surprise to receive a demi-official
letter from the Departmental Office, warning me for service in China
on promotion. The note of the circumstance recorded in my diary at the
time was this: “Bitter has been my disappointment on being superseded.
In my turn I am now to supersede others; but the system is not the less
cruel to those who suffer by it.” The promotion so indicated implied
that I was about to pass over an entire grade,[211] including its
members, all of whom are my seniors in the service.
Short was the time allowed to make arrangements for my dear wife and
children, from all of whom I took leave on May 2. On the following day
I received further orders in London, and proceeded to Southampton; on
4th embarked on board the P. and O. steamer _Ripon_; by 2 p.m. we were
on our voyage.
The “Overland” route was now before us, its attractions and incidents
new to me. The bold coast scenery of Portugal, towns, forts, and
convents succeeded each other at short intervals; Mondego Bay; Mafra,
near to which the “lines” of Torres Vedras were begun, by England’s
great commander. Then the Spanish coast with its vineyards and olive
groves, villages and hamlets; Tarifa, at the siege of which by the
French, in 1811-12, the 87th Regiment gained distinction by repelling
the assailants under General Laval,[212] the old Moorish walls of
that town being clearly seen by us. Now came into view, on our right,
Ceuta, far away behind which rose peaks of the Atlas range; the great
rock and fortress of Gibraltar, between it and Africa the “gut” some
twelve miles broad; then we are in the comparatively wide expanse of
the “blue Mediterranean.” Rising to a height of 11,000 feet, the Sierra
Nevada, white with snow and magnificent in outline on our left, the
chilly breezes from which now swept across our track. Next, passing
close by the Cane rocks, where since the previous January a lighthouse
was established; then the sight of the Gulf of Tunis carried historical
associations back to Carthage and its wars. The island of Pantellaria,
pretty to view from the distance, but as a penal settlement for
Sicilian convicts, it is in all probability less agreeable as a place
of residence. Then, on our right, Gozo, the cultivated terraces on
which could be distinctly seen through our binoculars; otherwise the
island looked treeless and bare, the most prominent objects upon it a
succession of fortifications, for it is garrisoned by British troops.
Yet, bare as it seems, Gozo is said to be a “garden” whence fruit
and vegetables are chiefly supplied to Malta. Now we approach that
island, the densely crowded town of Valetta comes in sight; we enter
the harbour, ramparts and bastions on either side of us, the monotony
of the town buildings interrupted by spires and pinnacles; every
building dazzling white. As the anchor drops, we know that our stay
is to be brief; a hasty run ashore, a visit to St. John’s Cathedral,
the Armoury, one or two other places of interest, then we resume our
journey eastward.
Alexandria was our next point of interest. As in the early hours of
morning we approached that historical port and city, the lighthouse,
the numerous windmills along the shore line, were the distinctive
objects first seen; as we entered the harbour, the Lazaretto, seraglio
and palace of the Sultan were on our left. Ships of all nations,
but the majority British, swing at anchor in our near proximity. A
steamer conveyed us to the railway station, whence by train to Cairo,
passing on our way an extensive line of ruins of the ancient aqueduct
of Alexandria, destroyed by Diocletian, A.D. 296; the station of
Meyrout, the name indicating Mæotis, the lake or reservoir so named
being indicated by a succession of shallow pools, on some of which
“sportsmen” were engaged in shooting water-birds of sorts; then the
windings of the Mahmoodieh Canal to our left; fields of bearded wheat
and barley ready for the sickle, while in some few places “thrashing
floors” were extemporised, oxen unmuzzled engaged on them, as in the
days of the patriarchs. Crossing the Nile at Kafr ez Zajyat, the first
glimpse of that sacred stream was obtained; then the Pyramids of Ghizeh
came in view, recalling to our minds many associations connected with
their wonderful history; then early in the afternoon we were at Cairo.
El Kahira, “the Beautiful”! Under the guidance of a dragoman from the
hotel where a brief stay was made, we started to explore the city.
Winding our way through narrow streets, named respectively the Turkish,
French, and Greek Bazaars, opportunity was given to observe the manners
and strange variety of persons and costumes in those places. Having
visited various smaller mosques, we ascended to the Citadel, the
work of Saladin, A.D. 1176, but interesting not so much in itself as
for the famous mosque of alabaster contained within it, that edifice
erected by Mahomed Ali, and now forming his tomb. The portion of the
citadel wall whence, on the occasion of the massacre of the Mamelukes
by order of that monarch in March, 1811, Emir Bey leaped his horse to
a depth of 60 to 80 feet, then succeeded in effecting his escape, was
carefully scanned. At a little distance from it we stood in the palace
yard in which 700 doomed Beys, having been treacherously invited to a
pretended marriage, were shot down from loopholes around, while in a
window pointed out to us the Pasha sat looking on, and quietly enjoying
his chebouk. From the walls we readily followed by the eye the Nile,
winding and flowing smoothly on as in the days of the Pharaohs. Green
with vegetation was the island of Rhodda, upon which, B.C. 1517, the
infant Moses was found by Thermuthis, the king’s daughter;[213] in the
distance the plain of Bussateen, upon which tradition records that the
Israelites encamped in the first day of their flight. Further away were
the Pyramids of Sakarah and Dahshur. Beyond them the haze seemed to
blend with the desert.
Next day the passengers _via_ Marseilles arrived, and the whole party
of us resumed our journey. It was not long until our train had entered
the desert, extending far as the eye could reach; in some places
varied by sandhills of different sizes, in others flat, but everywhere
destitute of vegetation save a few stunted bushes. In the bright
sunshine the mirage glittered deceptively, presenting the appearance of
sea and islands, to vanish in their turn as we approached them. A few
short halts at stations, and we detrain at Suez, to resume our journey
by sea; we have completed the “overland” portion of it.
Suez, supposed to be the ancient Arsinoe, was interesting for the
reason that in our approach thereto we had an opportunity of observing
the line of retreat assigned by tradition to the Israelites in their
flight from their oppressors. But now our movements were hurried; we
were quickly on board the _Colombo_, ready waiting for us in the gulf,
and so away we steamed towards the Red Sea.
Our progress was uneventful during the five days occupied in traversing
that much-dreaded track. The temperature of air and sea rose to a
higher point than we had yet experienced; the numerous islands, the
greater number destitute of lighthouses, were material proofs of
dangers to navigation by night--a danger rendered the more significant
as we steamed close past a rock on which a P. and O. vessel[214] had
shortly before been wrecked. As we passed the position of Mocha,
binoculars revealed to us the white houses, minarets, pillars, and
balconies of that Arabian town.
The rock of Aden, bare, rugged and unattractive in appearance, rose
before us; in due time we were at anchor in the bay. The usual rush
ashore was not indulged in, because of the great heat prevailing, nor
did we look with envy upon the few residents who took their afternoon
drive along the strand, our own amusement consisting in throwing small
coins into the sea, and seeing the great agility of young Arabs as they
dived after and caught them.
In the early morning of June 4, our ship arrived in Galle harbour, the
view as we entered rich and beautiful, the hills on either side and in
front thickly covered with palms and under vegetation, but the heavy
hot atmosphere causing a sense of great oppression. The south-west
monsoon was at full strength, the sea beating in heavy breakers over
some rocks at the harbour. As we entered we came close to the wreck of
the _Malabar_; that vessel, while starting from her anchorage a few
days previous, having on board the English and French Plenipotentiaries
to China, was driven upon a rock, and wrecked by the heavy weather
prevailing. Here we had to tranship to the _Pekin_, to continue by that
vessel our voyage eastward. While so delayed, we indulged in the usual
drives to places in the neighbourhood, everywhere through dense forests
of palms, alternated with those of other tropical forms, the atmosphere
hot, damp, and oppressive. The Cinnamon Gardens, so named from what was
formerly a principal product of the island, were in a state of neglect
and decay; the cinnamon industry a thing of the past, like that of the
nutmeg, at one time prosperous while as yet Ceylon was Dutch property;
nor was the cultivation of coffee a success by British planters, the
shrub which yields that berry being attacked by insect and vegetable
blights, the general result being ruin to nearly all interested in its
cultivation.
The accident referred to led to the rescued passengers from the
_Malabar_ being sent on board the _Pekin_, and our ship was crowded
to a degree that speedily became unpleasant. As we steamed across the
Bay of Bengal in heavy monsoon weather, the ports had to be closed.
Then it was that, in addition to the sweltering atmosphere “below,”
emanations from opium, that drug being the chief portion of the ship’s
cargo, affected us unpleasantly, first by the sense of taste, then by
exerting to some extent its narcotising influence; it was therefore a
most welcome relief to us, as we approached Sumatra, to get into clear
weather, to have everything thrown open, and so enjoy the delightful
change that had taken place in our condition.
Our next point was the high and thickly wooded island of Penang. Our
ship having dropped anchor, several of our party started to “explore”
that very lovely island. We drove along well-made roads, on either side
bordered with bamboo hedges, through which flowering creepers stretched
or hung in festoons. Bungalows, each in its well-kept garden, in which
grew palms, tropical fruit trees, and flowers, were thickly dotted
about; an extensive field of “pawn” pepper, then groves of nutmeg
trees were passed, and we arrived at the object of our excursion, the
cascade, 140 to 160 feet high. Here, for the first time, we indulged in
that delicious fruit the mangosteen.
Arrived at Singapore,[215] the busy aspect of the town, with its
population of 70,000, chiefly Chinese, impressed us. We noted with
interest the numerous temples connected with the sects into which
that population is divided. In the course of a ramble taken for
purposes of discovery we were accosted by a Chinaman. He addressed
us rudely; laughing and gesticulating as he spoke, he said, “Plenty
English going to China; they will soon be all shot;” thus expressing
his own views and probably also his desire in regard to the issue of
the war. Among a great variety of articles publicly exposed for sale
were two small pieces of ordnance; nor could the sale of such weapons
be interfered with, as no Declaration of War had so far been made.
While our ship, the _Pekin_, remained in harbour, some of our number
paid their respects to His Excellency the Governor--namely, to Colonel
Cavanagh--whose story at Maharajpore has already been recorded.
On various occasions during this part of our voyage, opportunity
brought us in contact with the representatives of France and England,
our fellow-passengers. Baron Gros was generally reserved in manner;
Lord Elgin, on the contrary, frank and open. The latter expressed his
views that an advance on Pekin had become a matter of necessity; in
his negotiations with the Chinese, he meant to ask only for what is
reasonable and just, and having done so to obtain it; but not to take
advantage of one concession to base upon it a demand for another.
He was of opinion that the season was too far advanced to permit of
further proceedings than the capture of the Tientsin forts, as a base
of operations for the ensuing spring; some of the islands in the Gulf
of Pehchili being taken possession of to serve as sanatoria. He
observed, with reference to the existence of the Taiping rebellion,
that if on the one hand the influence of the Court at Pekin were to be
seriously weakened, the schemes of the rebel party would be thereby
assisted; while on the other hand severe chastisement was necessary as
retribution for treacherous action against our ambassadors and their
ships at Taku. Therefore, the difficulty to be overcome was to punish
and yet not seriously injure the Imperial power. But events were to
outrun the anticipations so expressed.
Hong-Kong was reached on Midsummer Day. As the town of Victoria came
in sight, the general aspect presented by it produced a favourable
impression upon us; the light and airy style of houses rising in
tiers above each other upwards along the precipitous mountain face,
that mountain culminating in a peak some 1,500 feet above sea level,
presented a panorama different altogether in character from anything we
had hitherto seen. The circumstance that the town and the roads where
the shipping lay were completely sheltered from the south-west monsoon
then prevailing furnished full explanation for the oppressive damp heat
to which we were at once introduced.[216] It became my painful duty to
announce myself to the officer, who, by the fact of my arrival, was
superseded in his position, with whom in his disappointment and chagrin
I much sympathised.[217] Indeed, so greatly did he feel what he looked
upon as the disgrace into which he had departmentally fallen, that his
subsequent career was unfortunate; nor did he ever return to England.