_1843. AT ALLAHABAD_
I join the Buffs--An execution parade--Remnants of 44th Regiment--
Allahabad--Sickness--Papamow--Cobra bite--Accident--Natural
history--Agriculture--Locusts--Hindoo girl’s song--Society--Lord
Sahibs--Their staffs--Rumours of war--Preparations--The start--
Affairs in Gwalior--The Punjab.
Eighteen months had elapsed since the day when we left Chatham to that
on which we joined the distinguished regiment[23] of which I was a
member, the manner of my reception kind and friendly. As the regiment
passed through Cawnpore, a short halt was ordered to take place; the
camp to be pitched on that part of the parade ground, afterwards to be
occupied by the defences in connection with which the story of General
Wheeler and his party has left so many sad associations. The object of
that halt appeared in Division Orders--the carrying into execution of
sentence of death passed by General Court-Martial on a soldier of the
regiment convicted of murdering a comrade. This was to be the first
regimental parade on which I was to appear. By sunrise the troops were
in their places, so as to form three sides of a square, the fourth
being partly occupied by the construction above which the fatal beam
and its supports stood prominent. The procession of death began its
march, the regimental band wailing forth the Dead March; then came the
coffin, carried by low-caste natives; then the condemned man, ghastly
pale, strongly guarded. Thus did they proceed until they arrived at
the place of execution. The eyes of most of us were averted, and so we
saw not the further details of the sad drama. Regiment after regiment
marched past the structure, from which dangled the body of a man;
thence to their respective barracks or tents, their bands playing
“rollicking” tunes.
Pleasant as novel were the incidents of our march eastward along
that most excellent highway, the Grand Trunk Road. The early rouse,
“striking” tents, the “fall in,” the start while as yet stars glistened
in the sky and dawn had not appeared; then came the wild note of the
coel[24] as herald of coming day; the gleam of blazing fire far ahead,
indicating where the midway halt was to take place, and morning coffee
with biscuits was in readiness for all. Resuming the day’s journey, we
reached the appointed camp ground by 8 a.m. Tents were quickly pitched
on lines previously drawn by the Quarter-master and his staff. Bath,
a hearty breakfast, duty, shooting, and other excursions occupied the
day, then early dinner, early to bed, and so ready to undergo similar
routine on the morrow. In our progress we passed through Futtehpore, a
place to be subsequently the scene of stubborn fight against mutineers
in 1857.
Attached to the Buffs were the remnants of what had been the 44th
Regiment, now consisting of a few men of whom the majority were
mutilated or suffering from bodily illness; the party under command of
Captain Souter, by whose gallant devotion to duty the regimental colour
was saved two years previous when our force was annihilated near the
Khyber by Affghans, directed by Akbar Khan.
Pârâg, as the locality of Allahabad was anciently called, is closely
connected with Hindoo tradition, and still retains a sacred character.
At the date referred to in the Ramayana it was a residence of a
Rajah of “the powerful Kosalas,” whose capital was Ajudyia, their
country the modern Oude. Here it was that Rama and Seeta crossed the
Ganges in their progress to the jungles of Dandaka, where shortly
afterwards she was captured by Ravana and carried away by him to Lunka,
otherwise Ceylon. Within the fort, now occupied by our regiment, is an
underground temple dedicated to Siva, its position believed to indicate
the point where the mythical Suruswatee joins the still sacred Ganges.
On an enclosed piece of ground stands one of six pillars assigned to
Asoka, B.C. 240, bearing an inscription of the period of Samudra Gupta,
2nd century A.D. That pillar, having fallen, was restored by Jehangir,
A.D. 1605; the fort itself captured by the English from Shah Alum, A.D.
1765.
As the hot season advanced, severe and fatal disease prevailed
alarmingly among our men, cholera and heat fever claiming victims
after a few hours’ illness. Treatment applied by the younger medical
officers in accordance with theoretical school teaching was useless,
nor was it till the regimental surgeon (Dr. Macqueen) directed us to
more practical methods that anything approaching favourable results
were attained. In these notes, however, the intention is to omit
professional matters.
A full company of our men was sent to Papamow, situated on the right
bank of the Ganges, six miles distant, the object being to afford
additional space to those within the fort. Captain Airey, in command
of the detachment, had been one of the hostages in Affghanistan to
Akbar Khan, and utilised on that occasion his culinary talents by
acting as cook to the party. For a time the men enjoyed, and benefited
by their change to country quarters. Towards the end of the rainy
season, however, malarial diseases attacked them to a degree larger in
proportion than their comrades in the fort; consequently our detachment
was ordered to rejoin Headquarters.
A good deal of freedom was allowed to the soldiers when first sent to
the country place above mentioned, one result being that crime was
next to absent from among them. A favourite amusement was shooting in
the adjoining woods and fields, and, unhappily for some of them, of
bathing, notwithstanding strict orders to the contrary, in the Ganges,
then in full flood. On one of those shooting excursions a soldier got
bitten in the hand by a cobra, the reptile being immediately killed,
and brought in with him. That the teeth penetrated was manifest by
the wounds; yet, strange to say, no serious results followed--a
circumstance accounted for only by supposing that the poison sacs must
by some means have been emptied immediately previous. Of those who
insisted on entering the river, some fell victims to their temerity.
The pursuit and study of subjects relative to natural history furnished
those of us whose leanings were in those directions with continuous
enjoyment and profitable occupation. Visits by friends and small
attempts at hospitality came in as so many pleasant interludes. When
neither of these was practicable, a good supply of books and papers
gave us variety in the way of reading.
So time passed until the month of September, when the cultivated fields
were covered by heavy crops special to this part of India. A sudden
outburst of discordant noises induces us to quit our quarters in search
of the wherefore. A dense cloud is seen in rapid advance from the
south-east; myriads of locusts, for of those insects it is composed,
alight upon and by their accumulated weight bear down the stems to
which they cling. Next day a similar flight is upon us, devouring every
green thing; eight days thereafter, a third, but it passed over the
locality, obscuring the sky as it did so.
The regimental mess house occupied an elevated position adjoining and
overlooking the Jumna, a short distance above the confluence of that
river with the Ganges, a terrace pertaining to the building being a
favourite resort whereon, in the cool of the evening, it was usual for
the officers to enjoy the refreshing breeze, when there was any, and
contemplate the unrippled surface of the deep stream as it glided past.
On one such evening, while a number of us were so enjoying the scene,
watching the lights of native boats secured for the night to either
bank, and listening to that strange mixture of sounds to which natives
give the name of music, a series of what appeared to be floating lamps
emerged from where the boats lay thickest and glided along the stream.
Here we witnessed the scene alluded to, and so graphically described by
L.E.L.[25] in her version of “The Hindoo Girl’s Song.”[26] It was, in
fact, the Dewalee Festival.[27]
Allahabad was the chief civil station in the provinces; the principal
courts were situated there, the higher officials connected with
criminal and with revenue administration having their residences
scattered over what was an extensive and ornamental settlement. Some
of their houses were noted for hospitality, and for more homely
entertainments given for the special benefit of the younger officers.
Of the latter, that of Mrs. Tayler[28] has left most pleasant
recollections, the good influence exerted by that lady making its mark
on some of us who might otherwise have had remembrances very different
in kind. Among the most esteemed of the residents was Dr. Angus, “The
Good Samaritan,” as he was called. Hospitable to all; considerate to
juniors; his good advice, and help in other ways, readily given to all
who in difficulties applied to him.
Early in October, the Commander-in-Chief, Sir Hugh Gough, arrived _en
route_ north-westward. New colours were presented by His Excellency to
a native regiment[29] of distinguished service in Affghanistan, the
event celebrated by festive gatherings, in accordance with customary
usage. On the staff of His Excellency were two officers, both of whom
subsequently attained high military distinction; the one Sir Harry
Smith, the other Sir Patrick Grant.
Reports were “in the air” that a Camp of Exercise was about to
assemble at Agra, as an experiment then tried in India for the first
time. Bazaar report had it that the Buffs were about to be ordered on
service, the scene and nature of which did not just then transpire.
Meanwhile, responsible officers “saw to” the state of “brown Bess,”
with which weapon our men were then armed; to that of ammunition,
and other necessary items of equipment. The arrival of part of the
29th Regiment, to take our place, next followed, and, simultaneously,
came an order directing the Buffs to proceed to Kalpee, on the Jumna,
thirteen days’ march distant. A few days thereafter, published orders
directed the organization of “the Army of Exercise” into divisions and
brigades; still, there was no inkling of what was about to happen.
For some time previous evidences were manifest that all was not right
in Gwalior; latterly report said that things in that State had settled
down, terms having been come to between the young Maharajah and leaders
of the disaffected. A few days thereafter, our preparations were
renewed; our weakly men, together with soldiers’ wives and children,
arranged for to be left behind, and with a fighting strength of 739
powerful and seasoned soldiers, the regiment started fit and ready for
whatever service might be required of it.
The actual state of affairs, above referred to, was briefly this:--The
young Maharajah, known as “Ali Jah Jyajee Scindia,” owed his selection
to the widow of the deceased monarch of the same name, who died
childless, she a girl aged thirteen, named Tara Bye. To the post of
Regent, Mama Sahib, an uncle of the deceased monarch, was acknowledged
by Lord Ellenborough through the Resident, against the wishes of the
Maharanee; Dada Khasjee, steward of the Household, by the Maharanee.
Thereupon, the Resident was ordered by His Excellency to quit Gwalior,
and the Dada prepared his troops to oppose forces of the Company, if
sent against him; hence the campaign now about to take place.
In the Punjab, conditions were at the same time most serious, giving
rise to expectations of armed intervention there. For example:--On
the 15th of September, 1843, was perpetrated the double murder of the
Maharajah Shere Singh[30] and his son Pertab, at the northern gate of
Lahore, the conspiracy which led up to that deed having been formed
by Dyhan Singh.[31] Next day Ajeet Singh, by whose hand the crime was
committed, together with his followers, were attacked and put to death
by Heera Singh, son of the deceased vizier, and his party. For a time
a state of anarchy, with its attendant slaughter and rapine, prevailed
within the capital. These having run their course, Dhuleep Singh, only
surviving son of Runjeet, was placed upon the throne of his father,
Heera Singh making himself vizier. Meanwhile, the Sikh or Khalasa army
had become formidable under Lal Singh, a favourite of the Ranee;[32]
as an outcome of a conspiracy among them, Heera was murdered, his
place taken by Lal.[33] Nothing could then restrain their ardour but
an expedition into British territory, for which it was well understood
that preparations were in progress. The proceedings thus alluded to
supplied ample subject for comment in the papers, and talk at social
gatherings.