On one occasion, when Mr. Loftus’s man was driving for me, he spoke

of the desire or the efforts of the laborer to keep his little family

together, for in the unions or poor-houses the sexes are separated.

Mr. Loftus pointed out to me a building which he called the curse of

the country. It is a union. “Children,” he said, “brought up there are

well fed, and idle, and never want to work.” The number of these houses

and the amount of money paid to sustain them seem almost incredible.

Mr. Loftus’s district is very heavily taxed, about five shillings in

the pound, or twenty-five per cent. on the valuation of a man’s annual

income. The farmer pays this rate, but the landlord allows him half. The

county of Cork, with a population of about five hundred thousand, has

sixteen poor-houses. The one in Mr. Loftus’s district contains about

four hundred inmates, and the one in Cork over one thousand. The Cork

poor-rate amounts to from two and one-quarter to four shillings a pound

annually on every pound valuation of houses and lands, but the valuation

for taxes is only about sixty per cent. of the annual income.

When the country is poorest these taxes are heaviest. Very few who go

into the unions ever get out, excepting children. Said a guardian of

the poor, “What causes the immense number of paupers in Ireland is the

able-bodied persons going away and leaving the old. All the lower classes

here speak of America as their home or final place of settlement. When

the people send part of the money for their children, the board of

poor-law guardians will sometimes supplement it gratuitously and send the

children out. And at their own expense the board sometimes sends out lots

of young women that are in the unions.”

The region in which Mr. Loftus lives is a disturbed one. On a recent

Sunday a Land-League meeting was to be held in the town. It had been

extensively advertised in the newspapers. On the day before the meeting

was to be held the lord lieutenant issued a proclamation forbidding it.

About two hundred dragoons and infantry and one hundred armed police

arrived at the town, bringing with them provisions, as no farmer nor

storekeeper would dare to sell any to them. One storekeeper had already

been boycotted for not joining the Land League. On the appointed Sunday,

after mass, or about one o’clock, some five or six thousand people came

together, with bands of music. Five or six Roman Catholic clergymen were

among them. The people desired still to hold the meeting by erecting a

platform on some other spot. Two stipendiary, or salaried, magistrates

were present, and with them the priests entered into an agreement that

the soldiers and police should not interfere with the people if they

listened to no speeches, but simply formed in an orderly procession and

paraded in the town. The affair went off peaceably, and the people went

quietly home, although feeling much discontent at the action of the

priests. If they had not obeyed the contract, the priests would have

retired and left them to the mercy of the armed men.

At dinner, one day, in the course of conversation, Mr. Loftus said, “The

country is well enough if it was left alone.”

“But,” said I, “you approve perhaps of one agitator, O’Connell; you like

the effects of Catholic emancipation?”

“O’Connell!” he cried; “the best man Ireland ever produced; a clever

man. Not such a fellow as this Parnell, that nobody knows where he sprung

from; not fit to clane O’Connell’s shoes in cleverness. O’Connell never

allowed any quarrelling or disturbance. He kept up the agitation, but the

people were kept in order. The repeal collections were kept up, but there

was nothing like the burning, wounding, and killing that is going on in

these times.”

I asked whether there might not be a home parliament for local affairs,

and delegates to a general parliament. He answered that the people are so

much given to contention that they could not carry on affairs. “If half

a dozen of them,” he added, “come together at a poor-law meeting, they

can’t behave themselves.”

* * * * *

After my return to Cork, an acquaintance advised me to visit a town in

the southwest, where manners are more primitive. Accordingly I travelled

thither, where women in a shop may be heard talking the Irish language.

I went third-class. The railway terminated at the town. Falling into

conversation with an intelligent fellow-traveller, he said that he had

many men constructing a road. He was a steward or overseer. Looking out

at the country, I asked, “Why are there no barns?”

“They have nothing to put into barns,” he replied. “They sell their hay

in the fields, and thresh their grain and get it quickly into market.

They even sell their straw sometimes to meet their rent. Then when spring

comes the landlord endorses for them in the bank. This answers for one

year. On the next year the farmer must go to a money-lender, to whom he

signs a note for twenty-five pounds, receiving only twenty pounds.”

An intelligent Protestant, to whom I read this statement, made some

corrections. He said that the landlord would only endorse for the rent,

and the money-lender would charge ten or fifteen per cent.

I cannot substitute a name for that of my next witness. It is too well

known, having been mentioned in Parliament. John Coppithorne is a

Methodist. In politics, a Conservative. He says that if poor Beaconsfield

were in there would not be any of these disturbances. He has a shop. He

is a dyer, coloring frieze for country-folks. He rents several acres

of land, and, finally, unfortunately for him, he lets “cars,” or keeps

a small posting establishment. It is on account of letting vehicles to

the police that he is boycotted. He has lived for fifty-two years in

the town of Skibbereen, in the southwest, near Cape Clear. Skibbereen

is the terminus of the railroad, but beyond lies Skull, the residence

of Father Murphy. Father Murphy is a quiet Catholic priest. One day a

police-officer went into his house to get him to use his influence with

the people. But Father Sheehy was already in jail, and the people, seeing

the policeman, flew to the idea that Father Murphy was to be apprehended.

A riot impended, and a message was sent to Skibbereen for a reinforcement

of police. Not many police-officers were there, but they sent as many

as they thought they could spare, and unfortunate John Coppithorne let

them have cars to convey them, having no idea that the people would

break out as they did. Mrs. Coppithorne was extremely alarmed when the

mob attacked their house. They began about nine P.M., and continued at

intervals until daylight, or about half-past two. It was not alone the

breaking of windows, doors, and shutters which was alarming, but the

accompanying sounds. The women were dreadful, howling and laughing. They

brought stones in their aprons and encouraged the men. Horns were blown

all night on the surrounding hills,—conch-shells and cows’ horns. The

military arrived by special train at three A.M., “and their arrival was

as grateful as at Lucknow,” said Mrs. Coppithorne.

At an early hour of the night some of the mob suggested to the priest

that if the armed police were withdrawn they themselves would disperse.

The stipendiary magistrate agreed to the proposition. The stipendiary,

or paid magistrate, commands the armed forces, soldiers and police, in

case of riot. So the police withdrew to barracks, and the mob took the

priest on their shoulders and carried him home. The magistrate retired

to his hotel, and then the mob came back in double force. Having before

confined their efforts to the upper windows, they now attacked the doors

and shutters below, and plundered the shop.

After all it was a false alarm, as Father Murphy was not apprehended.

Tears came into Coppithorne’s eyes when I asked him the amount of his

losses. I hear that he claims damages to the extent of eight hundred

pounds. He says that his business, worth perhaps two hundred pounds a

year, is almost entirely ruined. Sometimes the people will come creeping

in, perhaps with a permit to get frieze left to be dyed before the riot.

There was a man in the shop while I was there, who wanted some frieze

which some one had left for a petticoat. He had lost the ticket. The

clerk declined to let him have it. “Only that the book was torn,” he

said, “I could let you have it.” So the inconvenience of tearing books

is not all on one side.

John Coppithorne is familiar with the pecuniary condition of the farmer.

We could hardly expect him to be prejudiced in the farmers’ favor. It

is therefore remarkable that he confirms the report of the desperate

condition of many of them. Of working farmers around him, he estimates

that ten per cent. have barns. About fifty per cent. sell their hay. Then

horses and cows are fed in the winter on the young shoots of the furze,

chopped up for the purpose. (It is like donkeys eating thistles.) Fifty

per cent. of the farmers sell their straw, and buy guano and phosphates.

These are the small, unthrifty farmers. The large ones buy these, and use

barn-yard manure also. But about fifty per cent. are never forehanded

enough to be able to make manure in the winter sufficient to keep their

land up to the standard. Poor creatures that have only a few acres can be

seen going security for each other in the spring to buy guano for their

potato ground. They live on potatoes, fish, milk, and Indian meal gruel.

About the same percentage sell all their grain to meet their rent and

pressing demands, and then buy, often on credit, to feed themselves and

animals. They buy their seed grain on credit at a high rate, paying,

if they pay at all, after the next harvest. Legal process is not

infrequently used to oblige them to pay. If money had not been sent into

Ireland, and relief afforded by benevolent persons, half of the farmers

would not have had seed potatoes in the spring of 1880.

Others at Skibbereen said that the competition is too great when farms

are to be rented, and some farms are entirely too small to support a

family, even if they had them rent free. Near the sea-coast an existence

can be eked out by fishing, but there are many in Ireland cultivating

five acres or less.

During my visit to Skibbereen I saw a funeral. The corpse was followed by

wailing women, for this old custom still prevails. They buried the body

at the graveyard of the abbey, an old ruin, where the dead were buried

coffinless during the famine. It was so desperate that these people, who

have so great a regard for funeral observances, would bury their dead,

in some cases, in fields near the houses, and the parish cart went round

and took up dead bodies that were buried in trenches. This great famine

was caused by the potato-rot. A gentleman told me that at that time

nineteen-twentieths of the people rarely ate bread.

* * * * *

But whether Ireland has not long been subject to famines is to me a

question. Within two or three years we have seen one averted by liberal

contributions, and there was one in 1822, or twenty-five years before the

great potato famine just mentioned.

While in the county Cork I met another person well qualified to speak

of the condition of farmers. Michael McBride’s occupations were

multifarious. He kept a shop, and a public-house distinct from it. He

farmed many acres of land in different tracts. He sold his cattle at the

fair. A public-house is a drinking-place, but McBride said that he drank

no liquor himself. He was not a member of the Land League. He turned

out a tenant and suffered by the League. While we talked in a retired

corner of his “public,” he occasionally spoke in a loud voice, as though

for others to hear, in this manner: “England is getting sixteen million

pounds a year out of this unfortunate country, and plunging people into

jail under the coercion act for saying nothing but the truth.”

McBride appointed an hour for me to call again. In the evening he had

to go out and raise contributions for the poor of the parish. “A very

wild summer, thank God,” he said, meaning a cold summer, unfavorable to

agriculture. (“We thank God for everything,” said my landlady; “good,

bad, or indifferent. One of my English cousins could not believe that

there was any reality in thanking God for bad things.”) McBride said that

he held much land.

“Of course you employ some one to work it for you?” I asked.

“Oh, bedad, yes,” he replied.

He said that there are men who sell their clover green when in want of

money, and who will even take off two or three crops in the year and sell

them green.

The poor farmer sells his hay, straw, and turnips to pay his rent, and

therefore cannot make barn-yard manure in the winter. Guano was selling

at thirteen pounds the ton. “It is a great evil to rely on,” said

McBride. “The poor farmer may sell his oats at the glut of the market at

five pounds a ton, and afterward buy Indian meal at seven pounds to feed

his animals and himself.”

In February, McBride paid seven pounds per ton for hay, but in the

preceding summer at harvest the same quality was less than two pounds per

ton. He showed me a note which he had signed to prevent a small farmer

or poor man from being turned out. Such must have two endorsers; but

McBride’s signature was enough, because he was a man of means. At first

he refused. The man cried, for he was to be served with a writ if he did

not pay that day. The note runs in this manner:

“16th of June, 1881.

“On demand we jointly and severally, or any two of us, promise

to pay Messrs. Kelly & Co., limited, Patrick Street, Cork, or

order, the sum of £10, for value received.

“DAVID SMITH.

“MICHAEL MCBRIDE.”

McBride added that he supposed that he signed “a thousand a year,” and

lost as “often as I have hairs on my head.” On the above note for ten

pounds the borrower was to pay ten shillings interest and sixpence other

charges for the use of the money for three months, which is over twenty

per cent. annually.

He said that of private bankers and money-lenders at exorbitant rates

there are twenty in Cork, some of them pawnbrokers. In various towns

there are many poor people who pawn their clothing on Monday and redeem

it on Saturday.

McBride said that the great cause of the present embarrassment is the

three bad years of 1877, 1878, and 1879. Oats, wheat, barley, and

potatoes were bad. Some oat-fields were never cut. McBride said that

seventy per cent. of the farmers around Cork are unable to pay their

debts, and would be bankrupt if forced to do so. They would need three

good harvests to bring them up. “They will never pay the same rents

again. Their condition is owing to high rents, bad harvests, and

American competition.”

* * * * *

After leaving the county Cork I spent a few days in Dublin. From persons

on the train thither and in that city I obtained information concerning

other portions of Ireland. To this I add the testimony of an Irish

gentleman well known in politics, whom I met in London.

A young man from the county of Limerick said that that county is all

pasture. Not more than forty per cent. of the farmers in his neighborhood

could afford to save hay and straw and feed cattle in winter for manure.

Farms average from forty to fifty acres, some being as small as ten. He

knew one man who farmed over three hundred acres, and paid three pounds

and five shillings per acre therefor. He had two or three acres in

potatoes, and the same in oats, but all the rest in pasture.

“Can he make money?” I asked.

“Not these late years,” he replied. “He is served with an ejectment

because he can’t pay his rent.”

None of our farmers will be surprised that a man cannot make money on

grass-land at a rent of about sixteen dollars per acre.

Another passenger, who was from Tipperary, said that, with few

exceptions, the farmers of that county can keep cattle in winter and

keep up their farms. Take the whole of Ireland, however, and farm-lands

are deteriorating in value. In Tipperary and Limerick lies “the Golden

Vale,” celebrated for its fertility. I had an impression that Tipperary

was wild and riotous. In London I spoke to the political gentleman above

alluded to, who knew the county well. In politics he is not in unity

with Parnell, and is opposed to the Land League; but not, if we may judge

by his conversation, to sanguinary measures.

“Tipperary,” said he, “has not of late suffered so much as some other

districts. Thirty or forty years ago the farmers were entirely at the

mercy of their landlords. They took the law into their own hands and

fought for their farms, shooting down the landlords or their agents. Many

of them were hanged or transported. The land bill of 1870,” he continued,

“extended to all Ireland, restrains the landlord from evicting tenants

without leases, unless paying them for their improvements.” He says that

the present trouble is caused mainly by landlords demanding increased

rents.

My intelligent fellow-traveller from the county Tipperary further said

that the provisions of the proposed land bill, by which the tenant is to

hold his land as long as he pays his rent, will do away with all abuses.

The Three F’s of the land bill are: First, Free sale,—that is, the tenant

is to have the privilege of selling his right in the farm; second, Fixity

of tenure; and, third, Fair rent, to be determined by a court.

I remarked that this third F is against the free operation of trade; that

everything should be sold at its value in the market. “No one puts such

restrictions upon trade as you Americans,” he replied.

When I arrived at Dublin I lodged at two different temperance houses.

In one I met a plain man from the county Galway, in the west. He kept

a shop, and was a dealer in hides. He traded from town to town. He

said that his priest and bishop were good men, and that young boys and

girls were signing the pledge. Of the farmers of Galway he estimated

that seventy per cent. are unable to pay their rent unless they sell

horse, cow, and calves; and even then they would be left in debt to the

shopkeeper. He complained greatly of the recent coercion act, under

which, he says, worthy citizens are apprehended or are in danger.

One fellow-lodger was a Methodist minister from the county Fermanagh, in

the north. He had been attending the Cork Conference. He complained of

the increase of luxury among farmers in buying tea and bread and in the

clothing of their daughters, and spoke of their spending two days a week

at market, and five or six shillings each time in treating each other.

“But your congregations are not of this class?” I said.

“Indeed they are,” he answered. “There are plenty in my congregation who

come home tipsy every market night.”

He afterward took out change and called for a bottle of ale. They sent

out and got it for him.

I was much interested in the conversation of two men who were dining

at the house. One of them, a young man, said that the three F’s would

not satisfy the Land-Leaguers. They wanted the extermination of the

landlords and the possession of the land. The other did not agree with

him. He said, “It would be a nice thing for you to be paying two pounds

and ten shillings for land, and a Land-Leaguer over the fence be getting

it for half the money. I am an Orangeman,” he added, “and the son of an

Orangeman, and the grandson of an Orangeman, yet I am greatly in sympathy

with the poor, suffering tenantry of this country.”

He said of himself that he had been in the army nine years; that he was

a landlord in a small way, five or six hundred pounds a year; and that

he was now lying out of rents. Rather than disturb tenants he had paid

as high as ten per cent. for money, and “glad to get it at that.” He was

originally from the county Cavan, northwest of Dublin. He said that the

average size of farms there is about twelve acres. Some have thirty.

About twenty per cent. of the farmers own horses. Many keep donkeys, but

these are unfit for farming. They put out manure with jennets, which are

not fit for ploughing. The poor farmer must wait until the richer one

has done ploughing so as to hire horses, and then the land is ploughed

shallow and injured. Both speakers were agreed on the trouble of hiring

horses. You must pay ten shillings a day for a pair, feed them and the

ploughman, and give him several glasses of whiskey, added one. If you

have cash in hand, you can get horses when you will; but the small farmer

cannot pay until he has harvested his crop. He generally pays labor in

exchange for horses.

A suggestion that the British government should buy the lands of Ireland,

rent them for the space of thirty years, and that the people should then

become possessors, met with some favor. The Irish politician whom I met

in London found two objections to this plan: First, that it would take

from the country the cultivated class; and, second, that for thirty years

it would drain the country of money.

ENGLISH.

I spent a few weeks in England in 1881, and visited three agricultural

regions in the east, the north, and the south. An article on the last is

to appear in _Harpers’ Magazine_. The following is drawn principally from

my visit to the east. Some account of my stay in the north and of a few

days in a manufacturing county may appear hereafter.

My authority for the statements in the following article is almost

entirely notes taken at the time, assisted in a small degree by

recollections. But it cannot be assumed that this essay is without faults.

With regard to another country, I was advised to tell what I saw and how

it impressed my mind, and not to endeavor to draw conclusions. But what

a traveller sees and hears is greatly influenced by his own opinions. He

goes to a foreign land, and if of different religious institutions from

his own, he inquires on this point; of a different form of government, he

asks political questions. He notices, also, differences in dress, food,

and manner of living.

The first family with whom I boarded in Huntingdonshire was that of Mr.

Jackson, a carpenter, who, besides working at his trade, rented a few

acres. His wife, who was a farmer’s daughter, had a small dairy of three

cows. Jackson appeared to have a splendid constitution. He was short and

somewhat thick-set. He began his trade at eighteen, and was an apprentice

five years and a journeyman three, when, having put by some money, he

married at twenty-six. His wife was near thirty. One of them said that

they had prospered with the help of the Lord.

Mrs. Jackson also had been able to save something wherewith to furnish

a house. She learned a trade, and was also companion or lady’s-maid to

sick ladies and those going to Brighton. One of them made her a wedding

present of neat china.

Jackson and his wife have four children,—the eldest about six, or as she

says, “Four little children, not one of them able to put on a shoe nor a

stocking.” She attends to her dairy, boards the apprentice, and has no

servant.

Their children are sweet and clean. Three of them go to the public school

in the village. It is called the national school. Mrs. Jackson gave the

eldest three pence to pay for their instruction for a week; which is

at the rate of about twenty-four cents a quarter for each of them. The

penny is a trifle over two cents, the shilling a little under a quarter

of a dollar; but in turning sterling money into our own, it will avoid

repetition to consider the English penny as two cents, and four shillings

as a dollar.

The Jacksons’ house seemed a perfect palace compared to that of any

working farmer that I saw in Ireland. Coming freshly from that country, I

thought it must be the gem of the village, but I was mistaken. The busy

activity of the Jacksons, who have a young family to keep, was more like

what I have seen at home than what I saw in Ireland.

The house has a peculiar name placed on the front, something like

Hallelujah House. Doubtless it was built by a dissenter. I saw another

bearing title Bunyan Lodge.

A lodging-room was assigned to me, and I ate by myself in one of the

front rooms below. (Thus to take lodgings is very common in England.)

Jackson and his wife ate in the kitchen. When they had finished, she gave

the apprentice what she chose. My room had strips of carpet on the floor,

neat white curtains at the window, a suitable toilet service, linen

sheets and pillow-cases. There stood in it a neat red chest with iron

bands at the corners, and a white fringed cloth covering the top. It was

locked, expressive of thrifty housekeeping.

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