CHAPTER VIII.

THE CARLOTTA ARCH.

On returning to the mouth of the Arch Cave, the tourist proceeds towards

the Carlotta Arch--so named in honour of a daughter of the

Surveyor-General of New South Wales, Mr. P. F. Adams, who visited the

caves 10 or 12 years ago, and has always taken an interest in their

exploration and preservation. Ascending some stone steps, guarded by

galvanised wire, an excellent view of the Ball Room to the eastward is

obtained. The steps make access easy. Previously the rocks were

slippery, in consequence of the polish given to them by the feet of

marsupials, and the return journey was accomplished by holding on to a

rope, and sliding down the glassy surface.

The entrance to the Carlotta Arch is protected by a wire railing, about

35 feet by 8 or 10 feet. Passing through the iron gate, the visitor

finds himself on a little platform. Hundreds of feet below is a gully,

rippling at the bottom of which is a rill of water, which sings as it

goes, and whose melody, softened by distance, is pleasant as the hum of

bees or the carolling of birds. Above is a hoary rock, rugged and bare,

with the exception of some clumps of lilies which flourish and bloom in

its inaccessible clefts. From this point the tourist ascends the Nettle

Rocks for about 60 or 70 feet. Some steps are to be cut here, and

certainly they are much needed, for at present the journey is very

toilsome and difficult. From the end of the protected portion to the

summit--70 or 80 feet--the acclivity may be comfortably surmounted by

ordinarily active people. The Carlotta Arch is about 100 feet high and

about 70 feet wide, with an interior fringe of stalactites. The picture

seen through it is exceedingly grand, including majestic trees and

romantic gullies, huge mountains and immense rocks, with bold

escarpments. The walls of the arch are pierced like a fortress. Its

entire superstructure represents the union of two mountains by a natural

bridge, clad with trees and shrubs and creeping plants which trail

gracefully down its sides. On the summit are eucalypti, and conspicuous

amongst them is an iron guard for the protection of passengers going

over the viaduct. About half-way up this track from the arch to the

bridge (which is the concluding portion of the new road from Mount

Victoria), a good view can be obtained of McEwan's Creek, where the

water has broken through the hills, leaving the limestone rocks and

caves sometimes on the one side and sometimes on the other for a

distance of three miles up the valley running northerly. To the westward

is the Zigzag, leading to the cave-house by the route from Tarana, and

from which can be obtained the grandest view _en route_ from Oberon to

Jenolan. Here, after having spent an hour or two in the caves, it is

pleasant to bask in the golden sunshine and watch the gaudy parrots flit

by. From this point to the northward the limestone is visible to its

full extent till it is overlapped by higher mountains. It is about three

miles in length, by a maximum of half a mile in width. Immediately to

the south the limestone dyke is covered, but it crops up again about

seven miles distant, and continues on the surface for 15 to 20 miles, in

the direction of Goulburn. Near to what is called the Gallery (the

approach to the bridge over the arch) is an old gum tree, growing right

over the centre of the Devil's Coach House, and 500 feet above the

gullies, which can be seen by looking over the precipice. If it were a

blue gum tree, "and nothing more," it would be as uninteresting as the

"yellow primrose by a river's brim" was to Peter Bell. As a specimen of

its kind this tree is a failure; but it happens to be in the centre of

the cave reserve, and the "blaze" on it bears the mark, "F 69." From

this point the reserve extends two and a half miles east and west by

five miles north and south, and is certainly one of the most wonderful

areas dedicated to the public.

In the rocks near to the Centre Tree is an orifice called "The Devil's

Hole." It pierces the mountain obliquely, but without much deviation

from a straight line, and a stone thrown down it takes, according to its

weight, from nine to twelve seconds to find a resting-place on the floor

of the Devil's Coach House! This is an experiment which should not be

tried without precaution, and then only under official sanction,

otherwise some serious accident may occur. It would be well to erect

notice-boards at this and several adjacent places, warning persons not

to cast stones into the caverns, for the whole mountain is full of holes

and caves and drives. A piece of rock cast heedlessly into a crevice or

perforation in one cave might mean death to a tourist in lower cavernous

regions, and there is neither medical man nor coroner within convenient

distance. From the bridge (which is guarded by wire ropes) on the

western side, the visitor looks down on the Elder Cave; the Zigzag is in

front, and below is the sylvan valley from which the "ermin'd frost" has

been thawed, and which now "laughs back the sun." To the eastward are in

view of the spectator the Nettle and Arch Caves gate, the south entrance

to the Devil's Coach House, and the waterfall to the Cave River. In the

distance can be discerned a place known as Oaky Camp, or McEwan's Camp,

which is of interest in connection with bushranging episodes of the

olden time. From the highest point of the hill over the Grand Archway

the cave-house can be seen nestling in the valley 500 feet below.

Perched upon this pinnacle, with terrible depths on each side and

awe-inspiring grandeur at every turn, the beholder is apt to realise how

very small is the space he fills in the economy of Nature, how

inadequate is language to express deep emotions of the mind, and how

marvellous are the works of the Creator!

The Jenolan Caves: An Excursion in Australian Wonderland · 第 8 / 31 章