[Illustration: J. W. TYRRELL.
(_In Eskimo costume._)]
ACROSS THE SUB-ARCTICS
OF CANADA
A JOURNEY OF 3,200 MILES BY CANOE
AND SNOWSHOE THROUGH THE
BARREN LANDS
BY
J. W. TYRRELL, C.E., D.L.S.
_INCLUDING A LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED ON THE EXPEDITION,
A VOCABULARY OF ESKIMO WORDS, A ROUTE MAP
AND FULL CLASSIFIED INDEX_
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN ON THE
JOURNEY, AND FROM DRAWINGS BY
ARTHUR HEMING
NEW YORK:
DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY.
1898
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER PAGE
I. TORONTO TO ATHABASCA LANDING 7
II. DOWN THE ATHABASCA 19
III. RUNNING THE RAPIDS 36
IV. CHIPPEWYAN TO BLACK LAKE 49
V. INTO THE UNKNOWN WILDERNESS 70
VI. THE HOME OF THE REINDEER 80
VII. A GREAT FROZEN LAKE 90
VIII. ON THE LOWER TELZOA 102
IX. MEETING WITH NATIVES 114
X. THE ESKIMOS 127
XI. CUSTOMS OF THE ESKIMOS 147
XII. DOWN TO THE SEA 172
XIII. ADVENTURES BY LAND AND SEA 181
XIV. POLAR BEARS 189
XV. LIFE OR DEATH? 199
XVI. FORT CHURCHILL 210
XVII. ON SNOWSHOES AND DOG-SLEDS 219
XVIII. CROSSING THE NELSON 229
XIX. THROUGH THE FOREST AND HOME AGAIN 240
APPENDIX
I. PLANTS COLLECTED ON THE EXPEDITION 251
II. ESKIMO VOCABULARY OF WORDS AND PHRASES 273
ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
J. W. TYRRELL _Frontispiece_
J. BURR TYRRELL 8
OUR CANOEMEN 11
HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY’S TRADERS 13
A HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY’S INTERPRETER 15
A PIONEER OF THE NORTH 16
INDIANS OF THE CANADIAN NORTH-WEST 18
TROOPER, N.-W. MOUNTED POLICE, IN WINTER UNIFORM 26
LANDING OF SCOWS ABOVE GRAND RAPID 29
GRAND RAPID, ATHABASCA RIVER 31
ENGLISH-CHIPPEWYAN HALF-BREED 32
NECK DEVELOPED BY THE TUMP-LINE 35
SHOOTING THE MOUNTAIN RAPID, ATHABASCA RIVER 40
STORE, FORT MCMURRAY 41
CHIPPEWYAN CAMP 42
STARVING CREE CAMP, FORT MCMURRAY 44
A DANDY OF THE NORTH. A VOYAGEUR 46
AN ENGLISH-CREE TRAPPER 48
FORT CHIPPEWYAN 50
STEAMER “GRAHAME” 52
LANDING ON NORTH SHORE, LAKE ATHABASCA 56
A TYPICAL NORTHLAND FATHER 59
INDIAN LOG HOUSE 64
CATARACT, STONE RIVER 65
A DIFFICULT PORTAGE 67
INDIAN RAFTS LOADED WITH VENISON 69
A. R. C. SELWYN, C.M.G., F.R.S. 74
SCOTCH-CREE HALF-BREED 79
TELZOA RIVER 82
RAPIDS, TELZOA RIVER 83
HERD OF REINDEER 85
ICE ON THE SHORE OF MARKHAM LAKE 91
TOBAUNT LAKE 94
FRENCH-CREE HALF-BREED 101
RAPIDS ON THE LOWER TELZOA 103
MUSK OXEN 104
ESKIMO “TOPICK,” TELZOA RIVER 106
ESKIMO HUNTERS 121
GROUP OF ESKIMOS 122
ICELANDIC SETTLER 125
AN ESKIMO. ESKIMO WOMAN 126
HALF-BREED HUNTER WITH WOODEN SNOW-GOGGLES 134
SECTION THROUGH IGLOE 136
ESKIMO KYACK 141
ESKIMO OOMIACK 142
DOG-WHIP, WALRUS TUSKS AND BOWS AND ARROWS 146
HARPOONS, LANCES AND SPEARS 154
ESKIMO GAMES AND TOYS 163
HALF-BREED BOY 180
BLACKFOOT BOY 188
ENCOUNTER WITH POLAR BEARS 196
THE LAST OF OUR PROVISIONS 199
FRENCH SALTEAUX GIRL 209
REV. JOSEPH LOFTHOUSE AND FAMILY 212
RUINS OF FORT PRINCE OF WALES 216
ICE-BLOCK GROUNDED AT LOW TIDE 218
N.-W. M. P. “OFF DUTY” 228
HALF-BREED DOG-DRIVER 229
HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY’S STORE, YORK FACTORY 238
RED-DEER COW-BOY 239
DOG-TRAIN AND CARRYALL 240
CREE HUNTER’S PRIZE 250
[Illustration: _ROUTE OF THE TYRRELL EXPEDITION OF 1893 THROUGH NORTHERN
CANADA_]
ACROSS THE SUB-ARCTICS OF CANADA.
CHAPTER I.
_TORONTO TO ATHABASCA LANDING._
On the morning of the 10th of May, 1893, in response to a telegram from
Ottawa, I took train at Hamilton for Toronto, to meet my brother, J. Burr
Tyrrell, of the Canadian Geological Survey, and make final arrangements
for a trip to the North.
He had been authorized by the Director of that most important department
of the Canadian Government to conduct, in company with myself, an
exploration survey through the great mysterious region of _terra
incognita_ commonly known as the Barren Lands, more than two hundred
thousand square miles in extent, lying north of the 59th parallel of
latitude, between Great Slave Lake and Hudson Bay. Of almost this entire
territory less was known than of the remotest districts of “Darkest
Africa,” and, with but few exceptions, its vast and dreary plains had
never been trodden by the foot of man, save that of the dusky savage.
During the summer of 1892 my brother had obtained some information
concerning it from the Chippewyan Indians in the vicinity of Athabasca
and Black Lakes, but even these native tribes were found to have only
the vaguest ideas of the character of the country that lay beyond a few
days’ journey inland.
In addition to this meagre information, he had procured sketch maps of
several canoe routes leading northward toward the Barren Lands. The
most easterly of these routes commenced at a point on the north shore
of Black Lake, and the description obtained of it was as follows:
“Beginning at Black Lake, you make a long portage northward to a little
lake, then across five or six more small ones and a corresponding number
of portages, and a large body of water called Wolverine Lake will be
reached. Pass through this, and ascend a river flowing into it from the
northward, until Active Man Lake is reached. This lake will take two
days to cross, and at its northern extremity the Height of Land will be
reached. Over this make a portage until another large lake of about equal
size is entered. From the north end of this second large lake, a great
river flows to the northward through a treeless country unknown to the
Indians, but inhabited by savage Eskimos. Where the river empties into
the sea we cannot tell, but it flows a great way to the northward.”
From the description given, it appeared that this river must flow through
the centre of the unexplored territory, and thence find its way either
into the waters of Hudson Bay or into the Arctic Ocean. It was by this
route we resolved to carry on the exploration, and, if possible, make our
way through the Barren Lands.
[Illustration: J. BURR TYRRELL.
(_Leaving Fort Churchill._)]
One of the first and most important preparations for the journey was
the procuring of suitable boats, inasmuch as portability, strength and
carrying capacity were all essential qualities. These were obtained
from the Peterboro’ Canoe Company, who furnished us with two beautiful
varnished cedar canoes, eighteen feet in length, and capable of carrying
two thousand pounds each, while weighing only one hundred and twenty
pounds. Arrangements had also been made to have a nineteen foot basswood
canoe, used during the previous summer, and two men in readiness at Fort
McMurray on the Athabasca River.
Four other canoemen were chosen to complete the party, three of them
being Iroquois experts from Caughnawaga, Quebec. These three were
brothers, named Pierre, Louis and Michel French. Pierre was a veteran
canoeman, being as much at home in a boiling rapid as on the calmest
water. For some years he had acted as ferryman at Caughnawaga, and only
recently had made a reputation for himself by running the Lachine Rapids
on Christmas day, out of sheer bravado. His brother Louis had won some
distinction also through having accompanied Lord Wolseley as a voyageur
on his Egyptian campaigns; while Michel, the youngest and smallest of
the three, was known to be a good steady fellow, boasting of the same
distinction as his brother Louis.
The other man, a half-breed named John Flett, was engaged at Prince
Albert, in the North-West. He was highly recommended, not so much as a
canoeman, but as being an expert portager of great experience in northern
travel, and also an Eskimo linguist.
The two men, James Corrigal and François Maurice, who through the
kindness of Mr. Moberly, the officer of the Hudson’s Bay Company at
Isle-à-la-Crosse, were engaged to meet us with a third canoe at Fort
McMurray, were also western half-breeds, trained in the use of the
pack-straps as well as the paddle, and were a pair of fine strong
fellows. Thus it was arranged to combine in our party the best skill both
of canoemen and portagers.
Our reasons for not employing the Indians from Lake Athabasca were,
that these natives had on nearly all previous expeditions proved to be
unreliable. Such men as we had engaged, unlike these Indians, were free
from any dread of the Eskimos, and as we advanced soon became entirely
dependent on us as their guides. Besides, they were more accustomed
to vigorous exertion at the paddle and on the portage than the local
Indians, who are rather noted for their proficiency in taking life easy.
Next in importance to procuring good boats and canoemen was the
acquisition of a complete set of portable mathematical instruments, but
after some difficulty these, too, were obtained. The following is a list
of them: One sextant with folding mercurial horizon, one solar compass,
two pocket compasses, two prismatic compasses, one fluid compass, two
boat logs, two clinometers, one aneroid barometer, a pair of maximum
and minimum thermometers, one pocket chronometer, three good watches, a
pair of field-glasses, an aluminum binocular, and a small camera. These,
though numerous, were not bulky, but they comprised a part of our outfit
over which much care had to be exercised throughout the journey. A bill
of necessary supplies was also carefully made out, and the order for
them forwarded to the Hudson’s Bay Company’s store at Edmonton, with
instructions to have them freighted down the Athabasca River to Fort
Chippewyan, on Lake Athabasca, as early as possible.
[Illustration: OUR CANOEMEN.
François Maurice. Pierre French. John Flett. Jim Corrigal. Michel French.
Louis French.]
The above and a hundred and one other preparations having been completed,
my brother and I bade farewell to our homes, and on the 16th of May
boarded the North Bay evening express at Toronto. The journey was not
begun without the stirring of tender emotions, for to me it meant
separation, how long I knew not, from my young wife and baby boy five
months old, and to my brother it meant separation from one too sacred in
his eyes to mention here.
Once aboard the train we made ourselves as comfortable as possible for
a five days’ ride. I do not propose to weary my readers with a detailed
account of the long run across continent by rail, as it is not reckoned
a part of our real journey; in passing I will merely make the briefest
reference to a few of the incidents by the way.
It was not until after many delays between North Bay and Fort William on
the Canadian Pacific Railway, owing chiefly to the disastrous floods of
that year, which inundated the track for long distances, washed it out
at several points and broke one of the railway bridges, that we arrived
at Winnipeg, the capital of the Province of Manitoba. Upon reaching the
city it was found that our canoes, which had been shipped to Edmonton
some time previously, had not yet passed through. After considerable
telegraphing they were located, and it was found that they would arrive
on the following day. In consequence of this and other business to be
transacted with the Commissioner of the Hudson’s Bay Company, we were
obliged to remain here for a day. During our brief stay we were warmly
greeted by many friends, and were most kindly entertained at Government
House by the late Lieutenant-Governor, Sir John Schultz, and Lady
Schultz, to whom we were indebted for the contribution to our equipment
of several articles of comfort.
[Illustration: HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY’S TRADERS.]
The next day we bade our Winnipeg friends good-bye and took the C. P.
R. train for the West. The route lay through vast areas of the most
magnificent agricultural country, as a rule level and unbroken, save
by the innumerable and ancient but still deep trails of the buffalo.
Little timber was observed, excepting in isolated patches and along the
river valleys, and for the most part the land was ready for the plough.
Passing through many new but thriving towns and settlements by the way,
we arrived early on the morning of the 22nd at the busy town of Calgary,
pleasantly situated in the beautiful valley of the South Branch of the
Saskatchewan River, and just within view of the snow-clad peaks of the
Rocky Mountains. From Calgary our way lay toward the north, _via_ the
Edmonton Branch of the C. P. R., and after a stay of only a few hours we
were again hurrying onward. On the evening of the same day, in a teeming
rain, we reached Edmonton, the northern terminus of the railway.
Edmonton is a town situated on both banks of the North Branch of the
Saskatchewan, and at this time was in a “booming” condition, particularly
upon the southern bank. Many large business houses were being erected,
and property was selling at stiff prices. Edmonton is chiefly noted for
its lignite mines, which are worked to a considerable extent, and produce
coal of very fair quality. The seams are practically of unlimited extent,
and are easily accessible in many places along the river banks. Gold
is also washed from the sands in paying quantities, while the town is
surrounded by a fair agricultural and grazing country. Petroleum, too,
has been discovered in the vicinity, and indications are that in the near
future Edmonton will be a flourishing city.
The older part of the town is situated on the north side of the river,
and communication is maintained by means of an old-fashioned ferry,
operated by cables and windlass. As the Hudson’s Bay Company’s stores and
offices from which our supplies were to be forwarded are situated on the
north side, we crossed over on the ferry, and engaged rooms at the Jasper
House. Upon enquiry we were gratified to find that the supplies and men,
excepting the two who were to meet us later, had all arrived in safety.
Our provisions, which were to be freighted down as far as Lake Athabasca
by the Hudson’s Bay Company, had not yet gone, but were already being
baled up for shipment. The completion of this work, which was done under
the supervision of my brother and myself, together with the making up of
accounts and transaction of other business, occupied several days. But by
the morning of the 27th of May our entire outfit, loaded upon waggons,
set off on the northward trail leading to Athabasca Landing, a small
trading-post situated one hundred miles distant on the banks of the great
Athabasca River.
[Illustration: A H. B. C. INTERPRETER.]
Two days later, being Monday morning, my brother and I, accompanied by a
driver only, started out in a light vehicle in rear of the outfit. The
weather was showery, and the trail in many places very soft. Occasionally
deep mud-holes were encountered, bearing evidence of the recent struggles
of the teams of our advance party, but as we were travelling “light,”
we had little difficulty in making good progress. Later in the day the
weather cleared, permitting us to enjoy a view of the beautiful country
through which we were passing. As to the soil, it was chiefly a rich
black loam, well covered, even at this early season, between the clumps
of poplar scrub, by rich prairie grass. A few settlers were already in
the field, and had just built or were building log cabins for themselves
on one side or other of the trail. A little farther on our way the
country became more hilly, the soil more sandy, and covered by the most
beautiful park-like forests of jack-pine. Many of the trees were as much
as fifteen inches in diameter, but the average size was about eight.
[Illustration: A PIONEER OF THE NORTH.
(_Drawn from life by Arthur Heming._)]
After passing through some miles of these woods we again emerged into
more open country, wooded alternately in places by poplar, spruce and
jack-pine. About nine o’clock that evening, when half-way to the Landing,
we reached the Height of Land between the two great valleys of the
Saskatchewan and Athabasca rivers. Here, upon a grassy spot, we pitched
our first camp. As the night was clear no tents were put up, but, after
partaking of some refreshment, each man rolled up in his blanket and
lay down to sleep beneath the starry sky. We rested well, although our
slumbers were somewhat broken by the fiendish yells of prairie wolves
from the surrounding scrub, and the scarcely less diabolical screams
of loons sporting on a pond close by. An effort was made to have the
latter nuisance removed, but any one who has ever tried to shoot loons
at night will better understand than I can describe the immensity of the
undertaking.
About nine o’clock on the evening of the 30th of May we arrived at
Athabasca Landing, only a few hours after the loads of supplies, which
we were glad to find had all come through safely.
[Illustration: INDIANS OF THE CANADIAN NORTH-WEST.
BLACKFOOT IN WAR-PAINT.
CREE WOMAN.
BLOOD BRAVE IN WAR-BONNET.
CREE DIGNITARY.
SARCEE BRAVE.
(_Drawn from life by Arthur Heming._)]