Virginia Military Institute was first an academy and was established in

connection with Washington College by an act of the Legislature during

the years 1838-9. A guard of soldiers had been maintained at the expense

of the State for the purpose of affording protection to the arms

deposited in the Lexington arsenal for the use of the militia in western

Virginia. It was through the influence of Governor McDowell, who came

from Rockbridge County, that this militia was made into an educational

unit of Washington College.

One seldom thinks of the Virginia Military Institute without associating

with it the noted Colonel Claudius Crozet--soldier, educator and

engineer. He was the first president of the V.M.I. Board of Visitors. An

imposing hall at the Institute is named in his honor.

In the Stonewall Jackson Memorial Hall hangs the painting which depicts

the charge of the corps of cadets at the Battle of New Market. "This

great painting, not a mural, is one of the largest canvas paintings in

the country"--according to authorities there.

Among other memorial buildings is the one erected in honor of

Brigadier-General Scott Shipp, a former cadet, instructor and

superintendent; Maury-Brooke Hall, dedicated to Matthew Fontaine Maury,

the Pathfinder of the Seas and honoring Commander John Mercer Brooke,

inventor of the deep-sea sounding apparatus and builder of the first

successful iron-clad vessel, the "Merrimac."

During the War Between the States the greater part of the buildings were

destroyed by Federal authority. When General Lee heard of this tragedy

he wrote to General F. H. Smith, the superintendent there. We quote his

letter because of its prophetic message:

"CAMP PETERSBURG, (VA.) _July 4, 1864_.

"I have grieved over the destruction of the Military Institute.

But the good that has been done to the country cannot be

destroyed, nor can its name or fame perish. It will rise

stronger than before, and continue to diffuse its benefits to a

grateful people. Under wise administration, there will be no

suspension of its usefulness. The difficulties by which it is

surrounded will call forth greater energies from its officers

and increased diligence from its pupils. Its prosperity I

consider certain.

"With great regards, yours very truly,

"R. E. LEE."

There is a glamor attached to this Virginia school unique in the

country. It comes not alone from the bright cadet uniforms, the parade

grounds, the gray stone barracks and the _esprit de corps_ evidenced

there; part is kept alive by the hundreds of loyal alumni and friends

whose devotion is unlimited. This "West Point of the South" maintains

the traditions of the time of Stonewall Jackson and graduates young

officers for the army and young men for every field of business. A

current Broadway show of popular appeal and a cinema of note is that of

"Brother Rat" which depicts the life at V.M.I.

Culpeper Minute Men

Who can resist a story about the Revolutionary War? There is a

fascination surrounding the heroes and heroines of that era and most of

us listen attentively to any legend depicting the action of our

forefathers.

From a point along the Skyline Drive one may look toward Culpeper

County. (In fact, in all probability you passed through a part of this

old county if you took an east to west route to reach the drive.) Among

other things Culpeper is justly famous for its Minute Men of the

Revolutionary War.

The town was formed from Orange in 1748 and was named in honor of Lord

Culpeper, Governor of Virginia from 1680 to 1683. This land was a part

of the original land grant to Lord Fairfax. It was here in the old

Courthouse that young George Washington produced his commission as

surveyor. The record reads:

"20th July, 1749--George Washington Gent. produced a commission

from the President and Master of William and Mary College,

appointing him to be surveyor of this county, which was read,

and thereupon he took the usual oaths to his majesty's person

and government, and took and subscribed the abjuration oath and

test, and then took the oath of surveyor, according to law."

Speaking years later in the Senate, John Randolph of Roanoke remarked

that the Minute Men "were raised in a minute, armed in a minute, marched

in a minute, fought in a minute, and vanquished in a minute." These

soldiers chose as part of their uniform green hunting shirts with

"Liberty or Death" stamped in large letters across the front. Buck tails

hung from their old hats and from their belts swung tomahawks and

scalping knives. Their wild appearance on reaching Williamsburg, the

capital of the colony, set the inhabitants in as much fear as did the

thought of invasion by the enemy! Lieutenant John Marshall who was later

to become Chief Justice was among the number--as was his father.

The slogan of the Minute Men "Liberty or Death" brought forth humor from

one wag who said the phrasing was too strong for him; he would enlist if

it were changed to "Liberty or Be Crippled."

Almost upon their immediate arrival at Williamsburg they were marched to

Norfolk County and were participants in the Battle of Great Bridge.

Blind Preacher

Not so far from Gordonsville there is a simple marker near the site of

"Belle Grove," a little church made famous by a blind preacher. And back

of the monument itself is a story well worth repeating. It is a tale

told by William Wirt in his _British Spy_.

In that account Wirt said:

"It was one Sunday as I travelled through the county of Orange,

that my eye was caught by a cluster of horses tied near a

ruinous old wooden house in the forest, not far from the

roadside. Having frequently seen such objects before, in

travelling through these States, I had no difficulty in

understanding that this was a place of religion."

He stated further that he was filled with curiosity as to the type of

minister who would preach in such a wilderness as he was passing through

and so he stopped and joined the worshippers. He described the preacher,

a Presbyterian in faith, as having one of the most striking appearances

he had ever seen and a most remarkable delivery.

"I have never seen, in any other orator, such a union of

simplicity and majesty. He has not a gesture, an attitude, or

an accent, to which he does not seem forced by the sentiment

which he is expressing. His mind is too serious, too earnest,

too solicitous, and, at the same time, too dignified, to stoop

to artifice. Although as far removed from ostentation as a man

can be, yet it is clear from the train, the style, and

substance of his thoughts, that he is not only a very polite

scholar, but a man of extensive and profound erudition."

James Waddel was the name of this remarkable old man of God. He was born

in Ireland in 1739 and was brought to America as an infant.

Another interesting tale was told in the neighborhood. Waddel's fame as

a preacher had spread through the vicinity. On one occasion a committee

from a different faith prepared to wait on him and urge him to occupy

their pulpit as well as his own. Upon nearing his dwelling they were

shocked to hear sweet plaintive notes coming from a violin and resolved

to learn who in his household would dare to play the devil's instrument.

They crept softly to the window. Such amazement was theirs when they saw

their potential minister himself drawing the bow--and with apparent

enjoyment and satisfaction. More quickly than they had approached did

they leave the yard and felt righteously thankful that they had seen the

true nature of the man before it was too late!

Not only did the Blind Preacher serve as minister, but like others of

his profession he conducted a school.

And what happened to the old church itself? Long abandoned as a meeting

house for the Presbyterians, about 1850 it was sold and taken down by

the "Sons of Temperance" and converted into a temperance hall at

Gordonsville. Later it housed a school. Finally it was sold to a colored

preacher as a church for his flock.

Hebron Church

Outstanding among the old churches in this part of Virginia is Hebron

Church in Madison County.

The little colony of Germans at Germanna, to whom we have already

referred, and a few immigrants from Holland were responsible for its

early establishment. First it was known as "Old Dutch Church." Located

on its original site its existence has been in three different counties:

Orange, Culpeper and now Madison!

Hebron is the oldest Lutheran church not only in Virginia but in the

South. About 1733 the nucleus of the congregation met and sent a

representative to England for a pastor. It seems a bit surprising that

no English parson felt the call to tend the flock in an outpost of

Virginia, but it is true that no one was possessed of the missionary

spirit to that extent.

In 1735 a Hessian who had come to America eight years before, the Rev.

Casper Stoever, left his home in Pennsylvania and became the first

pastor. His annual salary, by the way, was four thousand pounds of

tobacco or just about forty dollars in currency. This was paid by the

congregation in addition to the taxes which were required of the

Non-Conformist churches towards the upkeep of the established English

church.

Everyone in Madison is vastly proud of the old pipe organ at Hebron. It

was built in 1800 at Philadelphia and brought to its present place on

wagon--a journey which took a long time and infinite pains. Jacob and

Michael Rouse were entrusted with the task of hauling. The organ cost

two hundred pounds sterling. Interesting, too, is the complete old

communion service which dates back to the church's early beginnings.

In recent years visiting concert organists have played on the fine old

instrument at the request of the congregation.

Hoover's Camp on the Rapidan River

During the administration of former President Hoover a fine camp was

built on the banks of the Rapidan River in Madison County where the

Chief Executive, his family and friends enjoyed the trout fishing and

rustic life that the camp afforded. A main lodge was erected for the

President. Guest lodges for the Cabinet members and others were located

nearby. This retreat is within easy driving distance of the White House

and was in constant use for week-ends during the summer months. From

Washington the Presidential parties took route 211 to Warrenton and from

there two routes were offered: either a continuation of route 211 to

Sperryville, then south to Criglersville on route 16, or from Warrenton

to Culpeper to Criglersville.

Both Mr. and Mrs. Hoover became very much interested in the life of the

mountaineers who grew to be their friendly neighbors. You have heard

the story, no doubt, of the small unlettered boy who brought a gift to

the President and who aroused in him and Mrs. Hoover the desire to see a

school built in the neighborhood which would serve a large mountain

area. An excellent little frame building nestles among the sloping hills

which attracts the children of all ages within a radius of many miles.

One part of the building is used for class instruction and the rest for

living quarters for the teacher. This school was made possible largely

through the efforts of Mr. and Mrs. Hoover.

One may see the school and the entrance to the Rapidan Camp by following

the road which leads from Big Meadow, a plateau on the Skyline Drive, to

Criglersville.

The camp is still in use at times. Cabinet members and other government

officials enjoy its stream and mountain beauties, but not to the extent

of former times.

Charlottesville and Albemarle County

THE FATHER OF THE UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA

Every school child knows the outstanding facts about Thomas Jefferson.

He will rattle off quickly that he was born near Charlottesville in

Albemarle County, in 1743, that he was at William and Mary College when

only seventeen and played his fiddle which he had carried as he rode the

long miles between Charlottesville and Williamsburg. He graduated there

and was admitted to the bar. Thomas Jefferson drafted, at the request of

the Committee, the Declaration of Independence. He was Governor of

Virginia during the trying years of the Revolutionary War. We shall not

give all the offices which he held, except to mention that he spent some

years abroad in France as United States Minister. For almost forty years

he served his country, having been President of it from 1801 to 1809.

It is from the quaint letters of his granddaughter, Ellenora Randolph,

that one may read of the tenderness, the lovable disposition and the

human side of this great American.

She was said to be his favorite grandchild and she writes of how she sat

on his knee and played with his huge watch chain. He never went to

Philadelphia without bringing her little luxuries which it was

impossible to buy in Virginia. He brought her a Bible, a lady's side

saddle, a Leghorn hat, and a set of Shakespeare.

[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia Conservation Commission_

"MONTICELLO", NEAR CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA.]

She tells how Jefferson's wife had died when his daughters were quite

young and that he had been so kind and sympathetic in "shaping their

lives."

There is an interesting love story here, too, for Ellenora met and fell

in love with Joseph Coolidge of Boston. He came a-wooing the Virginia

beauty, and according to the custom of that day, he wrote Mr. Jefferson

of his intentions to marry his granddaughter before he proposed to her.

The following is Jefferson's reply to Joseph Coolidge:

"MONTICELLO, _October 24, 1824_.

"I avail myself of the first moment of my ability to take up a

pen to assure you that nothing would be more welcome to me than

the visit proposed and its object.... I assure you no union

could give me more satisfaction if your wishes are mutual. Your

visit to Monticello and at the time of your convenience will be

truly welcome, and your stay, whatever may suit yourself. My

gratification will be measured by the time of its

continuance....

"I expect in the course of the first or the second week of the

approaching month to receive here the visit of my ancient

friend, General LaFayette. The delirium which his visit has

excited in the North envelopes him in the South also ... and

the county of Albemarle will exhibit its great affection and

unending means in a dinner given the General in the building of

the University, to which they have given accepted invitations

to Mr. and Mrs. James Madison and myself as guests; and at

which your presence as my guest would give high pleasure to us

all, and to name, I assure you more cordially than sincerely

your friend;

(Signed) "THOMAS JEFFERSON."

The wedding accounts give the names of fifty distinguished Americans who

came to pay their respects to Ellenora and her husband. Every

distinguished foreigner came in person; besides these, there came many

of the men who had known and loved Jefferson during all his years of

service. Imagine all the horses that had to be fed, all the gigs and

coaches and all the Negro servants who had to be quartered. No one is

surprised that what the man had accumulated was fast disappearing with

so much hospitality.

But Ellenora had her troubles upon arriving in Boston. Her presents and

other possessions had been sent by boat and it had sunk! Her letter

tells of her great distress at losing the trinkets associated with her

happy girlhood. But most of all, she expressed her grief upon losing a

writing desk which Grandfather Jefferson had had made for her by his

master carpenter, a Negro servant. This was a very talented carver who

had faithfully carried out each detailed design which his master had

given him. Now he was old and had grown blind and he could no longer

make one. This is Jefferson's letter to his granddaughter--and explains

how a most historic desk went a-travelling:

"It has occurred to me that perhaps I can replace it (desk) not

indeed to you, but to Mr. Coolidge, by a substitute, not

claiming the same value from its decorations but the part it

has bourne in our history, and the event with which it has been

associated.... Now I happen to possess the writing box on which

the Declaration of Independence was written. It was made from a

drawing of my own, by Ben Randall, a cabinetmaker in whose

house I took lodging on my first arrival in Philadelphia, in

May, 1776, and I have had it ever since. It claims no merit of

particular beauty. It is plain, neat and convenient and taking

no more room on a writing table than a modern quarto volume it

displays itself sufficient for any writing. Mr. Coolidge must

do me the favor of accepting this. Its imaginary value will

increase with the years. If he lives till my age, he may see it

carried in the procession of our nation's birthday."

So this is how the famous desk went to New England and was finally sent

to the State Department in Washington by the Coolidges in 1876.

When Thomas Jefferson was an old man, he began to carry out his dream,

one which he had had for a long time, to build a university. All his

life he had loved to draw plans and he carefully made his own

blueprints. He drew plans for lovely Monticello when he was twenty-eight

years old. His friends came from far and near to get him to draw plans

for their homes. Ashlawn, Montpelier and others are monuments to this

master builder. He had his own ideas about educating the young men of

Virginia. He wanted to see them fitted to be fine citizens by having a

good education, for he knew it was through good citizens that a good

government would be realized. But first he had to educate his friends

along this line. Many of them still thought a tutor in the family was

the best way. Many did not believe in "mass education." For ten long

years he worked to get a bill through the Legislature which called for

the establishment of the University of Virginia. At last, in 1825 the

school was opened. But many years passed before Jefferson could get the

buildings he had dreamed of and had planned. Then when he was

eighty-two, his dream came true.

[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce_

ROTUNDA OF UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA]

Today one may see his university, set on a sloping hill. The buildings

are models of architecture and Jefferson himself superintended the

construction of them. It is told that he often watched the carpenters

from Monticello through a telescope. Jefferson also planned those early

courses of study and helped in the selection of the faculty. The spirit

of Jefferson is still felt there today and each generation of students

has been enriched by it and the noble traditions of the school.

Many famous students have gone there. Edgar Allan Poe wrote "The Raven"

and "Anabel Lee" there. An Arctic explorer from the University was

Elisha Kane. Walter Reed studied medicine and, as we know, won the fight

against yellow fever by his heroic experiments. Each year, men go out

from this great old school who help to build a greater country--just as

Jefferson dreamed they would.

After his death on July 4, 1826, someone found a paper on which he had

written these words:

"Here was buried

Thomas Jefferson

Author of the Declaration of American Independence

of the Statute of Virginia for religious freedom

and Father of the University of Virginia."

And today, one finds his tomb halfway up the hill to Monticello and the

words above are cut upon the simple shaft which marks his grave.

Monticello is open to the public and may be reached by a hard surface

road leading out of Charlottesville. Through careful research and

diligence the Monticello Memorial Association has brought back to the

home much of the fine furnishings which Jefferson himself had collected.

At the present time the second and third floors of the mansion are being

faithfully restored.

JACK JOUETT'S RIDE

"Here goes to thee, Jack Jouett!

Lord keep thy memr'y green;

You made the greatest ride, sir,

That ever yet was seen."

So reads the last stanza of an inscription on a tablet erected in his

memory. But who was Jack Jouett and what of his "greatest ride?"

During the stirring days of the American Revolution Thomas Jefferson was

Governor of Virginia. Hearing that the British were expected to reach

Richmond he recommended that the capital of the colony be moved to

Charlottesville until after danger from the enemy should pass. This was

done and Jefferson stayed at his home, Monticello.

At Cuckoo Tavern in Louisa County, fifty miles from Charlottesville,

young Jouett was sitting around one night getting the latest news of the

rebellion, when Tarleton, who commanded a British force, came into the

place. Jouett hid from sight and overheard Tarleton talking with several

other English officers. They said they were impatient to be on their way

to Monticello to capture Jefferson, Patrick Henry and other Virginia

leaders. Jack stayed to hear the route they would take to

Charlottesville and then slipped away on his horse.

The famous ride occurred on back roads in order to beat the British to

their destination. He crossed to the main road long enough to tell a

family of Walkers that the British were coming for the Governor. Later

Tarleton drew in at the same home and demanded breakfast from Mrs.

Walker. Knowing that time meant a great deal to the rider going ahead

with the news, she delayed the meal as long as possible.

As Jouett climbed the last hill to Monticello he heard the horses of

Tarleton's party in the distance, so he spurred his animal on and in a

last-minute sprint he reached the home. The plans were revealed and

Jefferson hurriedly assembled his family. As their carriage left by a

back road the English came up another and searched in vain for the

Governor.

Jouett went from there to Charlottesville to warn the members of the

legislature of the impending danger and they fled to Staunton--all but

seven of the legislators who were overtaken and captured. The story is

told of how he saved General Stevens, a member of the Assembly. As they

rode along, some British soldiers saw them and set their horses at a

great pace. Jack had on a plumed hat which might appear important to the

soldiers; he told the general to ride slowly across an open field as if

he were the owner out on an inspection tour of his lands. He himself

would dash off in the hope of getting the troopers to follow him. The

plan worked. Jouett finally left the pursuers far behind and later on he

returned to his home in Charlottesville.

Much later the Virginia legislature passed a resolution commending the

valor of Jack Jouett and presented him with a pair of pistols and a

sword as a mark of appreciation of his service to the State. Swan

Tavern, left him by his father, occupied his time after the war. He died

in Kentucky where he had moved as an old man.

LEWIS AND CLARK EXPEDITION

Thomas Jefferson knew the two young men whom he wanted to explore the

great Northwest, for they had been born almost at the foot of

Monticello. They were Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. Each of them,

almost as boys, had been a soldier and each loved adventure.

Meriwether Lewis had inherited a fortune from his father and he could

have settled down to a life of ease. But after eighteen he would not go

to school any longer. He had fought in the Whiskey Rebellion in

Pennsylvania and then entered the army. He was commissioned captain in

1800 and served for three years. Then Thomas Jefferson asked him to be

his secretary and it was in this office that Jefferson found his

admirable qualities.

William Clark was four years older than his friend Lewis. He was born in

1770 and was a brother of George Rogers Clark. When he was fourteen

years old he went with his family to the Ohio River where his brother

George had built a fort. There he learned the ways of the Indians and

often he was in the thick of their raids. He, too, joined the regular

army and received his commission when he was only eighteen years old.

He went to St. Louis and was commissioned as second lieutenant of the

artillery and ordered to join the great expedition.

Captain Lewis was first in command and he selected his men carefully.

There were fourteen soldiers in the little party and two Canadian

boatmen, an interpreter, a hunter and a Negro servant.

Thomas Jefferson did not give them a lot of orders. The following

instructions show his wisdom:

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