Irish lace, also known under the name of Renaissance lace, from its
having been first made in the sixteenth century, is an imitation of the
earliest pillow laces; it ought, properly speaking, to be called French
lace, having been invented in France and thence introduced into England
and Ireland.
It is composed of braid or tape, formed into figures, joined together by
needle-made, corded or button-hole bars and fillings of different kinds,
or by bars alone.
The lace stitches and bars are almost the same as those used in fine
Venetian point, but they are executed in a coarser material so that this
section of our work may be considered as a preparation for the different
kinds of lace, to be described in the next chapter.
MATERIALS (fig. 692).—The braids used for making Irish lace are an
English speciality and manufactured exclusively in England; they are
very various in shade, width and thickness, and are to be had white,
unbleached, grey and pale yellow, narrow and wide, coarse and fine in
texture, with and without holes, open edge and picots, with large
medallions and small.
Fig. 692 represents the kinds most commonly used, in their original
size, together with a specimen picot, or purl, as they are called in
England, for the outside edge, also to be had ready made, for those who
do not care for the trouble of making them themselves.
For the stitches and bars by which the braids are joined together, the
best material is Fil à dentelle D.M.C,[A] (lace thread) a smooth even
thread, now made in every colour to match the braids.
[Illustration: FIG. 692. PATTERNS OF THE DIFFERENT TAPES AND BRAIDS USED
FOR IRISH LACE.]
TRANSFERRING DESIGNS FOR IRISH LACE.—The best way is to trace them on
oiled tracing linen with a watery ink, free from greasy matter. This
tracing linen, which is of English make, is white, glazed on one side
only; the unglazed surface should be turned uppermost, as it takes the
ink better.
As this tracing linen is quite transparent, the pattern can be
transferred to it at once without recourse to any other process.
It will be found less trying for the eyes to lay a piece of transparent
coloured paper, or stuff, under the pattern whilst you are copying it.
The Irish lace designs are almost all drawn with double lines, between
which the braid is tacked on with small back stitches. We may mention at
once that it is advisable to make the stitches longer on the right side
than on the other, or at any rate to make them of the same length.
TACKING DOWN AND GATHERING IN THE BRAIDS (fig. 693).—Where the lines
of the pattern describe a curve or a circle, the outside edge of the
braid, as shown in fig. 693, must be sewn down firmly, so as to form
little folds or gathers on the inside edge, which are first tacked down
and then gathered in with small overcasting stitches in fine thread, so
as to fit exactly to the pattern.
[Illustration: FIG. 693. TACKING DOWN AND DRAWING IN THE BRAIDS.]
The stitches, made for the bars and the fillings, must never be drawn so
tightly as to drag out the edges of the braids and thus spoil the
outlines of the pattern. Nor should the stitches be caught into the
tracing cloth, but only rest upon it.
When the embroidery is finished, turn the work the wrong side up, cut
every second or third tacking stitch and pull the threads carefully out,
from the wrong side, when the lace will separate itself from the backing
without difficulty; it has then to be damped and ironed also on the
wrong side. (See the concluding chapter on the different processes for
finishing off needlework).
It is of no consequence which are made first, the bars or the fillings;
we however incline to the former, more especially in the case of
button-hole bars, as they are easier to do than the fillings and once
done, there is less risk of puckering or drawing the edges together, in
making the fillings.
THE STITCHES.—We shall now proceed to describe a series of bars and
stitches, which, if carefully studied, will serve as a preparation for
making all the finer kinds of laces described in the ensuing chapter.
Without pretending to have exhausted the infinite variety of lace
stitches that exists, we hope to have brought before our readers’ notice
a sufficiently numerous selection to satisfy all tastes and capacities.
With regard to the names, the same stitches are known by so many
different ones, that excepting in the case of those universally
accepted, we have disregarded them altogether and merely numbered the
stitches in their order.
[Illustration: FIG. 694. PLAIN TWISTED BAR.]
PLAIN TWISTED BAR (fig. 694).—Secure the thread to the braid and
throw it across from one braid edge to the other, put the needle in
downwards from above, and overcast the first thread, so as to form the
two into a cord. If you do not make enough overcasting stitches to
tighten the two threads, the bars will be loose and untidy and spoil the
general appearance of the work.
[Illustration: FIG. 695. DOUBLE TWISTED BAR.]
DOUBLE TWISTED BAR (fig. 695).—Throw three foundation threads across
the space to be filled and overcast them loosely, so that they remain
visible between the stitches.
PLAIN BUTTON-HOLE BAR (fig. 696).—Throw three threads across and cover
them with button-hole stitches, made from right to left.
In making this and the subsequent bars, we recommend turning the needle
round and holding it as it were the reverse way, so that the eye not the
point passes first under the threads; strange as it may seem, it is
easier in this manner to avoid splitting the threads. The working thread
should always issue from the edge of the braid, one or two threads
before the foundation threads of the bar, to prevent the bars being of
unequal width, or getting twisted at the beginning.
BUTTON-HOLE BARS WITH PINNED PICOTS (figs. 697 and 698). After covering
half, or a third of the bar with button-hole stitches, pass the thread
without making a loop, under the foundation threads, and fasten the loop
with a pin, fig. 697, then slip the needle, horizontally from right to
left, under the 3 threads and tighten the knot close to the last
button-hole stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 696. PLAIN BUTTON-HOLE BAR.]
[Illustration: FIG. 697. BUTTON-HOLE BAR WITH PINNED PICOTS.]
[Illustration: FIG. 698. BUTTON-HOLE BAR WITH PINNED PICOTS.]
[Illustration: FIG. 699. BAR WITH LACE PICOT.]
Fig. 698 shows a picot made in the same manner, but with several
button-hole stitches inserted between the loop and the button-holed bar.
BAR WITH LACE PICOT (fig. 699).—Here the picot is made by bringing
the thread out through the loop and beginning the button-hole stitches, 4
or 5 in number, according to the size of the thread, quite close to the
pin, so that they entirely cover the loop. The pin must be stuck in the
width of 4 stitches, distant from the bar, and the foundation threads
should be completely hidden under the bar.
BAR WITH PICOT MADE IN BULLION STITCH (fig. 700).—Put the needle
halfway into the last button-hole stitch, twist the thread ten or twelve
times round it from left to right, draw it through and tighten the
thread, so that the spiral on the thread form a semicircle, then
continue the bar (see also for the bullion stitch figs. 179 and 661).
BAR WITH BUTTON-HOLE PICOT (fig. 701).—Cover rather more than half the
bar with button-hole stitches, carry the thread three times to the 6th
stitch and back, then button-hole these threads that are attached to the
bar in the same way as the bar itself and finish the bar in the usual
way.
These button-hole picots are generally used for edging lace; they may in
their turn be adorned with small pinned picots to produce a richer
effect.
[Illustration: FIG. 700. BAR WITH PICOT MADE IN BULLION STITCH.]
[Illustration: FIG. 701. BAR WITH BUTTON-HOLE PICOT.]
[Illustration: FIG. 702. BAR WITH TWO ROWS OF KNOTS.]
BAR WITH TWO ROWS OF KNOTS (fig. 702).—Over two foundation threads,
make double knots, far enough apart to leave room for the knots of the
next row between.
These double knots consist, in the first place, of one plain button-hole
stitch and then one reversed, that is, made by bringing the needle out
in front of the thread and passing it under the loop; the result being
that the thread will lie behind the thread and not before it, as in an
ordinary button-hole stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 703. BRANCHED BARS.]
BRANCHED BARS (fig. 703).—Where you have a larger surface to cover
with bars, you are generally obliged to make them with branches. For
this purpose you prepare the threads as for an ordinary bar and cover
them halfway with button-hole stitches; then you carry on the foundation
thread to the next bar, button-hole it also halfway, lay the next
foundation thread, and finally button-hole all the half-covered bars till
you reach the dotted line, from whence you lay the last foundation
threads.
The last bar is worked over 2 or 4 threads, so that the working thread
can be taken back to the edge of the braid by means of the last
button-hole stitches.
[Illustration: FIG. 704. PLAIN RUSSIAN STITCH.]
PLAIN RUSSIAN STITCH (fig. 704).—Stitches of all kinds can be used,
as well as bars, for joining braids together that run parallel to each
other, and for filling up the spaces between. These stitches, which
serve as an insertion, are some of them very elementary, whilst others
require great skill and patience to execute.
The simplest of all is the Russian stitch, which bears a great
resemblance to the crossed stitch, shown in fig. 39, and the crossed
back-stitch, fig. 176.
You pass the needle from left to right, under the edge of the braid,
then again from right to left under the opposite edge, taking care
always to leave the thread in front of the needle.
[Illustration: FIG. 705. TWISTED RUSSIAN STITCH.]
TWISTED RUSSIAN STITCH (fig. 705).—Instead of passing the needle
behind the thread, pass it before it and round it, so that the needle
always comes out again beneath the thread, which will then be twice
twisted.
[Illustration: FIG. 706. COLUMN STITCH.]
COLUMN STITCH (fig. 706).—At the bottom, the stitch is made like the
plain Russian stitch, and at the top, like the one in fig. 705, with the
difference that the second thread is passed three times round the first.
[Illustration: FIG. 707. INSERTION OF SINGLE BUTTON-HOLE STITCHES.]
[Illustration: FIG. 708. INSERTION OF PLAIN BUTTON-HOLE STITCHES.]
INSERTION OF SINGLE BUTTON-HOLE STITCHES (figs. 707 and 708).—Make
very loose button-hole stitches along both edges of the braid, all the
same size and the same distance apart, and vertically, opposite to each
other.
When these two rows are finished, pick up each loop with Russian stitch,
either single, fig. 704, or twisted, fig. 705. Fig. 708 shows the double
Russian stitch made in each loop; it may be trebled or quadrupled,
according to whether you wish your insertion to be very transparent or
not.
[Illustration: FIG. 709. INSERTION WITH BEAD STITCHES.]
INSERTION WITH BEAD STITCHES (fig. 709).—Join the opposite rows of
loops together by four stitches. The threads of these stitches must lie
quite flat, side by side, and not one on the top of the other. After the
fourth stitch, you wind the thread round the bottom loop and then carry
it on to the next, whence you repeat the four stitches as above.
CLUSTER INSERTION (fig. 710).—Over the middle of two finished plain
bars and one half-finished one, a short distance apart, you make five
button-hole stitches and overcast the remainder of the third bar. The
first bar of the next cluster must be set quite close to the last.
INSERTION WITH BRANCHES (figs. 711 and 712).—Throw the thread across
the middle of the space between two edges of braid, and lengthways,
from one end to the other, pass the needle horizontally under four or
five threads of the braid, across the insertion; then carry it in a
similar manner, first to the left and then to the right, take up the
same number of threads of the braid and connect the three loops together
by a knot, as is clearly shown in fig. 711.
[Illustration: FIG. 710. CLUSTER INSERTION.]
[Illustration: FIG. 711. INSERTION WITH PLAIN BRANCHES.]
[Illustration: FIG. 712. INSERTION WITH BRANCHES AND WHEELS.]
Fig. 712 represents a similar beginning, and a similar interlacing of
the threads, but ornamented this time with a wheel, added after the knot
has been made over the loops.
[Illustration: FIG. 713. INSERTION WITH LEAVES WORKED IN DARNING
STITCH.]
INSERTION WITH LEAVES IN DARNING STITCH (fig. 713).—Fasten on the
thread where, according to the illustration, the first leaf in the
insertion ought to come, carry it across to the opposite side, draw it
through the edge of the braid and bring it back to the point whence it
started, lay threads across to both sides, like in figs. 711 and 712,
unite them by a knot, such as described in fig. 711, lay the thread once
more round the middle leaf, and finish the leaf in darning stitch,
working downwards from the top, as described in the preceding chapter in
figs. 646 and 647. As may be seen from the second middle leaf, your
darning stitches have to be made over five threads, subdivided into two
and three.
[Illustration: Fig. 714. INSERTION WITH SMALL WHEELS.]
INSERTION WITH SMALL WHEELS (fig. 714).—Here, you have to make two
rows of Russian stitches opposite each other and carry the thread to the
point of intersection, then, you make a wheel over five threads and pass
the needle under the completed wheel to reach the next point of
intersection. Half wheels may also be added at the edge of the braid, as
in figs. 658 and 659.
[Illustration: Fig. 715. INSERTION WITH BIG WHEELS.]
INSERTION WITH BIG WHEELS (fig. 715).—Carry the thread horizontally
across the middle of the space intended for the insertion, to the
opposite side, and then conduct it by means of overcasting stitches into
the corner; thence make a loose loop over to the opposite corner, pass
the needle under six or eight threads of the braid edge, slip it under
the horizontal thread first laid and behind the loop, and finish the
stitch on the other side in the edge of the braid.
Throw the thread again across the empty space and over the first thread,
bring your needle back to the middle, make a big wheel over four
threads, passing each time under the same threads, then overcast the
single thread, come back to the edge of the braid and make the second
loop, bringing out the thread at the same place where the other stitches
came out.
INSERTION WITH CONES (figs. 716 and 717).—Over plain but very
distended Russian stitch, make darning stitches backwards and forwards,
beginning at the point and reaching to the middle, so as to form small
cone-shaped figures.
To reach the point of the next cone you overcast the thread of the
Russian stitch several times.
You may also, as in fig. 717, double the Russian stitch and make the
darning stitches in such a manner that the points of the cones touch
each other and their bases meet the edge of the braid. The same thing,
worked the reverse way, that is, with the points turned outwards to the
edge, produces a not less pretty effect.
[Illustration: Fig. 716. INSERTION WITH CONES.]
[Illustration: Fig. 717. INSERTION WITH CONES.]
[Illustration: Fig. 718. INSERTION WITH EMBROIDERED SQUARES.]
INSERTION WITH EMBROIDERED SQUARES (fig. 718).—After making rows of
loose button-hole stitches along the braid edges, as in figs. 707, 708,
709, run a thread through the button-hole stitches; this thread serves as
the foundation to the Russian stitches by which the two edges are joined
together. The empty square space left between the Russian stitches is
then filled up with button-hole stitches, like those in fig. 651, in the
foregoing chapter.
[Illustration: Fig. 719. INSERTION WITH HALF BARS.]
INSERTION WITH HALF BARS (fig. 719).—Fasten on the thread in one of
the corners of the braid and conduct it by means of overcasting stitches
to the middle of the insertion, draw it through the edge of the braid on
the right and make button-hole stitches over it, to the middle of the
space to be filled, then carry the thread to the left, draw it through
the left edge, a little higher up than on the other side, and make the
same number of stitches over it as over the first. You can vary this
insertion with very good result by making more stitches on one side than
on the other, but it should never be more than 10 or 12 stitches wide.
[Illustration: FIG. 720. PLAIN NET STITCH. FIRST LACE STITCH.]
PLAIN NET STITCH. FIRST LACE STITCH (fig. 720).—Make rows of
button-hole stitches to and fro, loose enough to form loops into which
the stitches of each subsequent row are set. You must be careful to make
the same number of stitches in all the spaces that are of the same size,
and also, when you begin a row with a whole stitch, to begin the return
row with a half, and so on, in regular rotation.
The number of stitches should vary with the width of the pattern and the
decreasing and increasing should always be done at the edge.
The loops must be as many threads of the braid edge long, as they are
wide.
[Illustration: FIG. 721. DOUBLE NET STITCH. SECOND LACE STITCH.]
DOUBLE NET STITCH. SECOND LACE STITCH (fig. 721).—You leave the same
distance between the stitches here as in the preceding figure, but in
each of the loops of the first row, you must make two button-hole
stitches close together. It is as well to round the loop a little less
than is usually done in net stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 722. THIRD LACE STITCH.]
THIRD LACE STITCH (fig. 722).—Here, you make three button-hole
stitches close together, joined to the next three by a loop of thread,
just long enough to hold the three button-hole stitches of the subsequent
row.
[Illustration: FIG. 723. FOURTH LACE STITCH.]
FOURTH LACE STITCH (fig. 723).—Working from left to right, make two
button-hole stitches rather near together, and leave twice as long a loop
between them and the next two stitches as between the two first.
In the next row, which is worked from right to left, make one stitch in
the loop between the two stitches that are close together and three or
four in the long loop.
[Illustration: FIG. 724. FIFTH LACE STITCH.]
FIFTH LACE STITCH (fig. 724).—As in fig. 723, you begin this stitch
from left to right, but making three stitches very close together with
an intermediate loop as long as the three stitches in one.
In the second row, you make one button-hole stitch in each of the loops
between the three stitches and six or eight in the long intermediate
loop.
[Illustration: FIG. 725. SIXTH LACE STITCH.]
SIXTH LACE STITCH (fig. 725).—Over wide loops, made from left to
right in the first row, make in the second, enough button-hole stitches
entirely to cover the thread.
In the third row of stitches, put the needle into the small loop between
two sets of button-hole stitches, so that the close stitches shall form
vertical lines across the surface they cover.
This stitch admits of every sort of modification, such as, for instance,
making the third row of stitches on the button-hole stitches, in the
middle of the ones on the small loop; or making one row of close
stitches first, and then three open rows; in the former case you should
always make an uneven number of button-hole stitches, so that you have
the same number on both sides of the needle, which you must put in
between the two threads that form the middle button-hole stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 726. SEVENTH LACE STITCH.]
SEVENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 726).—Begin, working from right to left, by
making one row of pairs of button-hole stitches, a very short distance
apart; in the second row you make one button-hole stitch between each of
these pairs, and in the third row, two button-hole stitches in every long
loop. Here, the stitches must not be crowded together but have a small
gap left between them.
[Illustration: FIG. 727. EIGHTH LACE STITCH.]
EIGHTH LACE STITCH (fig. 727).—This stitch is generally known as the
“pea-stitch” on account of the holes occasioned by the different
distribution of the stitches.
The first row consists of stitches, set rather closely together, and all
the same distance apart. In the second row, you make one button-hole
stitch in the last stitch of the first row, then, missing two loops and
three button-hole stitches, you make two stitches in the next loops and
so on. In the third row, you make three stitches in the big loop, and
one in the loop between the stitches of the second row.
[Illustration: FIG. 728. NINTH LACE STITCH.]
[Illustration: FIG. 729. TENTH LACE STITCH.]
NINTH, AND TENTH LACE STITCH (figs. 728 and 729).—Both, the small and
the big pointed groups of stitches, begin with a row of close button-hole
stitches.
Fig. 728 requires three rows; in the second you miss two stitches and
make two in the next loops; in the third, only one stitch is introduced
between the two loops of the lower row.
Fig. 729 requires five rows. The stitches of the first must be set as
closely together as possible; in the second row you make four stitches
and miss two of the first row, in the third row you make three stitches,
in the fourth, two and in the fifth, one only. The long loops of the
last row must not be too slack so that the first stitches of the next
scallop may quite cover them.
[Illustration: FIG. 730. ELEVENTH LACE STITCH.]
ELEVENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 730).—This stitch is not really more
difficult to work than those we have been describing, but requires
rather more attention to learn.
The first row consists of plain net stitches; in the second, you have
three button-hole stitches in the middle net stitch; in the third, three
button-hole stitches in the whole loops on either side of the three
button-hole stitches of the second row, and one stitch in the half loops
that precede and immediately follow them; the fourth row is similar to
the second.
In the fifth row the close stitches are changed. The three button-hole
stitches are made in the third whole loop, before and after those of the
fourth row, so that between two groups of three stitches you have six
single button-hole stitches and seven loops.
[Illustration: FIG. 731. TWELFTH LACE STITCH.]
TWELFTH LACE STITCH (fig. 731).—Fasten on your thread, take it by
overcasting stitches over the braid edge, half a c/m. from the corner,
and make three button-hole stitches downwards, quite close together. The
next loops, over four or six threads of the braid, must be left long
enough to be on a level with the first stitch reaching downwards from
the edge.
In the second row, you cover the long loops with three button-hole
stitches and draw the intervening thread quite tight.
The third row is like the first, with the difference, that you put the
needle in between the two threads of the button-hole stitch, instead of
through the loops.
[Illustration: FIG. 732. THIRTEENTH LACE STITCH.]
THIRTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 732).—The stitch here represented, as
well as the two next ones are looped from left to right and then again
from right to left.
As it is more unusual to make the loops from left to right than the
reverse way, the proper position of the needle and the course of the
thread are shown in the illustrations.
Fig. 732 requires, in the first place, two button-hole stitches very
close together in the edge of the braid, then a third stitch covering
the two first stitches and set quite close to them; the connecting
thread between these stitches must be tightly stretched so as to lie
almost vertically, that the stitches may form straight lines.
[Illustration: FIG. 733. FOURTEENTH LACE STITCH.]
FOURTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 733).—This begins, likewise, with two
button-hole stitches, above which you make two button-hole stitches
instead of one, as in fig. 732, producing an open ground with vertical
bars.
[Illustration: FIG. 734. FIFTEENTH LACE STITCH.]
FIFTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 734).—This resembles the two foregoing
stitches and consists of three button-hole stitches, made over the edge
of the braid or the intermediate bars, and joined together afterwards
under one transverse stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 735. SIXTEENTH LACE STITCH.]
SIXTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 735).—You begin this by a row of net
stitches worked from right to left, or as the engraving shows, by a row
of stitches called «seed stitches».
[Illustration: FIG. 736. SEVENTEENTH LACE STITCH.]
The second row, worked from left to right, consists of short bars, set
slanting and shaped like a seed, and made the same way as the picot in
fig. 699. The first stitch is carried through the loop of the row below,
the second over both threads and far enough from the loop to leave room
for three other stitches. The first of the four button-hole stitches of
the next group must be set quite close to the last.
SEVENTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 786).—Here we have the same pattern as
the preceding one without the row of net stitches; the engraving shows
us at the same time, the proper direction of the needle and thread for
the row that is worked from right to left.
[Illustration: FIG. 737. EIGHTEENTH LACE STITCH.]
EIGHTEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 737).—This is the first of a series of
lace stitches, often met with in old Venetian lace, and which can
therefore with perfect right be called, Venetian stitches.
Owing to the manner and order in which the rows of stitches are
connected and placed above one another, they form less transparent
grounds than those we have hitherto described.
In these grounds you begin by making the row of loops, then you throw a
thread across on the same level and in coming back, pass the needle
through the row of loops under the thread stretched across, and under
the stitch of the previous row.
[Illustration: FIG. 738. NINETEENTH LACE STITCH.]
NINETEENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 738).—The close stitch here represented
is more common in Venetian lace than the loose stitch given in fig.
737.
[Illustration: FIG. 739. TWENTIETH LACE STITCH.]
TWENTIETH LACE STITCH (fig. 739).—By missing some loops of the close
ground in one row and replacing them by the same number in the next,
small gaps are formed, and by a regular and systematic missing and
taking up of stitches, in this way, extremely pretty grounds can be
produced.
[Illustration: FIG. 740. TWENTY-FIRST LACE STITCH.]
TWENTY-FIRST LACE STITCH (fig. 740).—These close lace stitches, can
be varied in all sorts of other ways by embroidering the needle-made
grounds.
In fig. 740, you have little tufts in darning stitch, and in a less
twisted material than the close stitches of the ground, worked upon the
ground.
If you use Fil à dentelle D.M.C (lace thread) for the ground, you should
take either Coton à repriser D.M.C (darning cotton), or better still,
Coton surfin D.M.C[A] for the tufts. The ground can also be ornamented
with little rings of button-holing, stars or flowerets in bullion or some
other fancy stitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 741. TWENTY-SECOND LACE STITCH.]
TWENTY-SECOND LACE STITCH (fig. 741).—For the above three stitches
and the three that follow, the work has to be held, so that the
finished rows are turned to the worker and the needle points to the
outside of the hand. In the first row, from left to right, take hold of
the thread near the end that is in the braid, lay it from left to right
under the point of the needle, and bring it back again to the right,
over the same. Whilst twisting the thread in this way round the needle
with the right hand, you must hold the eye of the needle under the left
thumb.
When you have laid the thread round draw the needle through the loops;
the bars must stand straight and be of uniform length. Were they to
slant or be at all uneven, we should consider the work badly done.
In the row that is worked from left to right, the thread must be twisted
round the needle, likewise from left to right.
[Illustration: FIG. 742. TWENTY-THIRD LACE STITCH.]
TWENTY-THIRD LACE STITCH (fig. 742).—This is begun with the same
stitches as fig. 741, worked from right to left. You then take up every
loop that comes between the vertical bars with an overcasting stitch,
drawing the thread quite out, and tightening it as much as is necessary
after each stitch. You cannot take several stitches on the needle at the
same time and draw out the thread for them all at once, as this pulls
the bars out of their place.
[Illustration: FIG. 743. TWENTY-FOURTH LACE STITCH]
TWENTY-FOURTH LACE STITCH (fig. 743).—This is often called the
Sorrento stitch.
Every group of three bars of stitches is separated from the next by a
long loop, round which the thread is twisted in its backward course. In
each of the succeeding rows you place the first bar between the first
and second of the preceding row, and the third one in the long loop, so
that the pattern advances, as it were in steps.
[Illustration: FIG. 744. TWENTY-FIFTH LACE STITCH.]
[Illustration: FIG. 745. TWENTY-SIXTH LACE STITCH.]
TWENTY-FIFTH AND TWENTY-SIXTH LACE STITCHES (figs. 744 and
745).—These two figures show how the relative position of the groups
of bars may be varied.
Both consist of the same stitches as those described in fig. 741. The
thread that connects the groups should be tightly stretched, so that the
rows may form straight horizontal lines.
[Illustration: FIG. 746. TWENTY-SEVENTH LACE STITCH.]
TWENTY-SEVENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 746).—Begin by making two rows of
net stitches, fig. 720, then two of close ones, fig. 738, and one row
like those of fig. 741.
If you want to lengthen the bars, twist the thread once or twice more
round the needle. You can also make one row of bars surmounted by
wheels, as shown in fig. 765, then one more row of bars and continue
with close stitches.
TWENTY-EIGHTH LACE STITCH (fig. 747).—Between every group of three
bars, set close together, leave a space of a corresponding width; then
bring the thread back over the bars, as in figs. 737, 738 and 739,
without going through the loops. In the second row, you make three bars
in the empty space, two over the three bars of the first row and again
three in the next empty space. The third row is like the first.
[Illustration: FIG. 747. TWENTY-EIGHTH LACE STITCH.]
[Illustration: FIG. 748. TWENTY-NINTH LACE STITCH.]
TWENTY-NINTH LACE STITCH (fig. 748).—This stitch, known as Greek net
stitch, can be used instead of button-hole bars for filling in large
surfaces.
Make bars from left to right, a little distance apart as in fig. 741,
leaving the loops between rather slack, so that when they have been
twice overcast by the returning thread, they may still be slightly
rounded. In the next row, you make the bar in the middle of the loop and
lift it up sufficiently with the needle, for the threads to form a
hexagon like a net mesh.
[Illustration: FIG. 749. THIRTIETH LACE STITCH.]
THIRTIETH LACE STITCH (fig. 749). After a row of pairs of button-hole
stitches set closely together, with long loops between, as long as the
space between the pairs, throw the thread across in a line with the
extremities of the loops, fasten it to the edge of the braid and make
pairs of button-hole stitches, as in the first row above it.
The loops must be perfectly regular, to facilitate which, guide lines
may be traced across the pattern, and pins stuck in as shown in the
figure, round which to carry the thread.
[Illustration: FIG. 750. THIRTY-FIRST LACE STITCH.]
THIRTY-FIRST LACE STITCH (fig. 750).—At first sight this stitch looks
very much like the preceding one, but it differs entirely from it in the
way in which the threads are knotted. You pass the needle under the loop
and the laid thread, then stick in the pin at the right distance for
making the long loop, bring the thread round behind the pin, make a loop
round the point of the needle, as shows in the engraving, and pull up
the knot.
[Illustration: FIG. 751. THIRTY-SECOND LACE STITCH.]
THIRTY-SECOND LACE STITCH (fig. 751).—To introduce a greater variety
into lace stitches, netting can also be imitated with the needle. You
begin with a loop in the corner of a square and work in diagonal lines.
The loops are secured by means of the same stitch shown in fig. 750, and
the regularity of the loops ensured, as it is there, by making them
round a pin, stuck in at the proper distance. The squares or meshes must
be made with the greatest accuracy; that being the case, most of the
stitches described in the preceding chapter can be worked upon them, and
the smallest spaces can be filled with delicate embroidery.
THIRTY-THIRD LACE STITCH (fig. 752).—This stitch is frequently met
with in the oldest Irish lace, especially in the kind where the braids
are joined together by fillings not bars. At first sight, it looks
merely like a close net stitch, the ground and filling all alike, so
uniform is it in appearance, but on a closer observation it will be
found to be quite a different stitch from any of those we have been
describing.
The first stitch is made like a plain net stitch, the second consists of
a knot that ties up the loop of the first stitch. Fillings of this kind
must be worked as compactly as possible, so that hardly any spaces are
visible between the individual rows.
[Illustration: FIG. 752. THIRTY-THIRD LACE STITCH.]
[Illustration: FIG. 753. THIRTY-FOURTH LACE STITCH.]
THIRTY-FOURTH LACE STITCH (fig. 753).—To fill in a surface with this
stitch, known as the wheel or spider stitch, begin by laying double
diagonal threads to and fro, at regular distances apart, so that they
lie side by side and are not twisted. When the whole surface is covered
with these double threads, throw a second similar series across them,
the opposite way. The return thread, in making this second layer, must
be conducted under the double threads of the first layer and over the
single thread just laid, and wound two or three times round them,
thereby forming little wheels or spiders, like those already described
in the preceding chapter in figs. 653 and 654.
THIRTY-FIFTH LACE STITCH (fig. 754).—Begin by making a very regular
netted foundation, but without knots, where the two layers of threads
intersect each other.
Then, make a third layer of diagonal threads across the two first
layers, so that all meet at the same points of intersection, thus
forming six rays divergent from one centre. With the fourth and last
thread, which forms the seventh and eighth ray, you make the wheel over
seven threads, then slip the needle under it and carry it on to the
point for the next wheel.
[Illustration: FIG. 754. THIRTY-FIFTH LACE STITCH.]
[Illustration: FIG. 755. THIRTY-SIXTH LACE STITCH.]
THIRTY-SIXTH LACE STITCH (fig. 755).—After covering all the surface
to be embroidered, with threads stretched in horizontal lines, you cover
them with loops going from one to the other and joining themselves in
the subsequent row to the preceding loops.
The needle will thus have to pass underneath two threads. Then cover
this needle-made canvas with cones worked in close darning stitches, as
in figs. 648, 716 and 717.
[Illustration: FIG. 756. THIRTY-SEVENTH LACE STITCH.]
THIRTY-SEVENTH LACE STITCH (fig. 756).—Here, by means of the first
threads that you lay, you make an imitation of the Penelope canvas used
for tapestry work, covering the surface with double threads, a very
little distance apart, stretched both ways. The second layer of threads
must pass alternately under and over the first, where they cross each
other, and the small squares thus left between, must be encircled
several times with thread and then button-holed; the thicker the
foundation and the more raised and compact the button-holing upon it is,
the better the effect will be. Each of these little button-holed rings
should be begun and finished off independently of the others.
THIRTY-EIGHTH LACE STITCH (fig. 757).—Plain net stitch being quicker
to do than any other, one is tempted to use it more frequently; but as
it is a little monotonous some openwork ornament upon it is a great
improvement; such for instance as small button-holed rings, worked all
over the ground at regular intervals. Here again, as in the preceding
figure the rings must be made independently of each other.
[Illustration: FIG. 757. THIRTY-EIGHTH LACE STITCH.]
[Illustration: FIG. 758. THIRTY-NINTH LACE STITCH.]
THIRTY-NINTH LACE STITCH (fig. 758).—Corded bars, branching out into
other bars, worked in overcasting stitches, may also serve as a lace
ground.
You lay five or six threads, according to the course the bars are to
take; you overcast the branches up to the point of their junction with
the principal line, thence you throw across the foundation threads for
another branch, so that having reached a given point and coming back to
finish the threads left uncovered in going, you will often have from six
to eight short lengths of thread to overcast.
Overcasting stitches are always worked from right to left.
FORTIETH LACE STITCH (fig. 759).—Of all the different kinds of
stitches here given, this, which terminates the series, is perhaps the
one requiring the most patience. It was copied from a piece of very old
and valuable Brabant lace, of which it formed the entire ground. Our
figure of course represents it on a very magnified scale, the original
being worked in the finest imaginable material, over a single foundation
thread.
In the first row, after the three usual foundation threads are laid, you
make the button-hole stitches to the number of eight or ten, up to the
point from which the next branch issues, from the edge of the braid,
that is, upwards.
Then you bring the needle down again and button-hole the second part of
the bar, working from right to left.
[Illustration: FIG. 759. FORTIETH LACE STITCH.]
A picot, like the one described in fig. 701, marks the point where the
bars join. More picots of the same kind may be added at discretion.
[Illustration: FIG. 760. WHEEL COMPOSED OF BUTTON-HOLE BARS. MAKING AND
TAKING UP THE LOOPS.]
[Illustration: FIG. 761. WHEEL COMPOSED OF BUTTON-HOLE BARS. THE
BUTTON-HOLING BEGUN.]
WHEEL COMPOSED OF BUTTON-HOLE BARS (figs. 760, 761, 762, 763).—As we
have already more than once given directions for making wheels, not only
in the present chapter, but also in the one on netting, there is no need
to enlarge on the kind of stitches to be used here, but we will explain
the course of the thread in making wheels, composed of button-hole bars
in a square opening.
Fig. 760 shows how the first eight loops which form the foundation of
the bars are made.
[Illustration: FIG. 762. WHEEL COMPOSED OF BUTTON-HOLE BARS. PASSING FROM
ONE BAR TO THE OTHER.]
[Illustration: FIG. 763. WHEEL COMPOSED OF BUTTON-HOLE BARS. BARS AND
RING FINISHED.]
In fig. 761 you will see that a thread has been passed through the
loops, for the purpose of drawing them in and making a ring in addition
to which, two threads added to the loop serve as padding for the
button-hole stitches; the latter should always be begun on the braid
side. Fig. 762 represents the bar begun in fig. 761 completed, and the
passage of the thread to the next bar, and fig. 763 the ring button-holed
after the completion of all the bars.
[Illustration: FIG. 764. FILLING IN A ROUND SPACE WITH NET STITCH.]
FILLING IN ROUND SPACES (figs. 764, 765, 766).—The stitches best
adapted for filling in round spaces are those that can be drawn in and
tightened to the required circumference, or those that admit of the
number being reduced, regularly, in each round.
In tacking braids on to circular patterns, the inside edges, as we
pointed out at the beginning of this chapter, have to be drawn in with
overcasting stitches in very fine thread.
Fig. 764 shows how to fill in a round space with net stitches. It will
be observed that the loop which begins the row, has the thread of the
loop with which it terminates, wound round it, which thread then passes
on to the second series of stitches. In the same manner you pass to the
third row after which you pick up all the loops and fasten off the
thread by working back to the braid edge over all the rows of loops,
following the course indicated by the dotted line.
[Illustration: FIG. 765. FILLING IN ROUND SPACES. FIRST CIRCLE OF WHEELS
BEGUN.]
[Illustration: FIG. 766. FILLING IN ROUND SPACES. THE TWO CIRCLES OF
WHEELS FINISHED.]
Fig. 765 shows how to finish a row of loops with wheels worked upon
three threads only. In the first row, you make a wheel over each bar; in
the second, you make a bar between every two wheels; in the third, the
wheels are only made over every second bar; a fourth row of bars which
you pick up with a thread completes the interior of the circle, then you
work along the bars with overcasting stitches, fig. 766, to carry the
thread back to the edge of the braid where you fasten it off.
NEEDLE-MADE PICOTS (figs. 767, 768, 769).—The edges and outlines of
Irish lace are generally bordered with picots, which as we have already
said can be bought ready-made (see fig. 692). They are not however very
strong and we cannot recommend them for lace that any one has taken the
pains to make by hand.
[Illustration: FIG. 767. CONNECTED NEEDLE-MADE PICOTS.]
[Illustration: FIG. 768. ISOLATED NEEDLE-MADE PICOTS.]
[Illustration: FIG. 769. BUTTON-HOLE PICOTS WITH PICOTS IN BULLION
STITCH.]
In fig. 767, the way to make picots all joined together is described.
You begin, as in fig. 762, by a knot, over which the thread is twisted
as indicated in the engraving.
It is needless to repeat that the loops should all be knotted in a line,
all be of the same length and all the same distance apart.
Fig. 768 represents the kind of needle-made picots which most resemble
the machine-made ones, and fig. 769 show us the use of little scallops
surmounted by picots, made in bullion stitch.
One or two rows of lace stitch fig. 736, or the first rows of figs. 749,
750, can also be used in the place of picots.
IRISH LACE (fig. 770).—English braids or those braids which are
indicated at the foot of the engraving must be tacked down on to the
pattern and gathered on the inside edge, wherever the lines are curved,
as explained in fig. 693; in cases however where only Lacet superfin
D.M.C[A] is used, the needle should be slipped in underneath the outside
threads, so that the thread with which you draw in the braid be hidden.
The braids are joined together where they meet with a few overcasting
stitches, as shown in the illustration.
Here, we find one of the lace stitches used instead of picots; the first
row of fig. 736 always makes a nice border for Irish lace.
IRISH LACE (fig. 771).—This pattern, which is more complicated and
takes more time and stitches than the preceding one, can also be
executed with one or other of the braids mentioned at the beginning of
the chapter; but it looks best made with a close braid.
[Illustration: FIG. 770. IRISH LACE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 771. IRISH LACE. MATERIALS: Lacet surfin D.M.C No.
5, white or écru and Fil d’Alsace D.M.C Nos. 40 to 150, or Fil à
dentelle D.M.C Nos. 50 to 150.]
The bars, which in the illustration are simply button-holed may also be
ornamented with picots of one kind or another; the interior spaces of
the figure on the left can be filled, instead of with corded bars, with
one of the lace stitches we have described, either fig. 720, 721, or
732, any one of which is suitable for filling in small spaces like
these.
In the figure on the right, the ring of braid may be replaced by close
button-hole stitches, made over several foundation threads or over one
thick thread, such as Fil à pointer D.M.C No. 10 or 20[A] to make them
full and round.
You begin the ring on the inside and increase the number of stitches as
the circumference increases.
[Illustration: FIG. 772. IRISH LACE. MATERIALS: English braid with open
edge.—For the lattice work: Fil d’Alsace D.M.C in balls Nos. 50 to 100
or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 50 to 100, white. For the cord: Cordonnet 6
fils D.M.C No. 15, écru.[A]]
Any of the stitches, from fig. 720 to fig. 743, can be introduced here.
IRISH LACE (fig. 772).—Here we find one of the fillings above alluded
to, fig. 751, used as a ground for the flowers and leaves. For the
design itself some of the closer stitches described in this chapter,
should be selected. When the actual lace, is finished you sew upon the
braid a thin cord, made of écru Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C, as described in
the chapter on different kinds of fancy work. Cords of this kind can be
had ready made, but the hand-made ones are much to be preferred, being
far softer and more supple than the machine-made.
[Illustration: FIG. 773. IRISH LACE. MATERIALS—For the cord: Cordonnet
6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 25. For the bars and lace stitches: Fil à
dentelle D.M.C No. 200.[A]]
IRISH LACE (fig. 773).—This lace, more troublesome than the preceding
ones to make, is also much more valuable and effective. The ground is
composed entirely of bars, like the ones described in fig. 761, the
branches, true to the character of the work are worked in the close
stitch represented in fig. 755, and the flowers in double net stitch,
fig. 721.
In working the above fillings, the thread must not, as in lace made with
braid, be carried on from one point to the other by overcasting stitches
along the braid edges, but should be drawn out horizontally through the
cord and back again the same way, giving the needle in so doing a
slightly slanting direction.